julies

So Bali it will be. We plan to visit here for maybe a week after our three weeks in Myanmar; then we will probably head up to peninsular Malaysia (haven't gotten that far in planning yet, but we do have a flight home from Kuala Lumpur. I've already gotten some great general advice about Bali from some of you, but now I am trying to narrow things down a bit. (I hope this will be easier to plan for than Myanmar).

I've been reading online, and I have some guidebooks. I know that we will get some rain in Feb., but at least there won't be tourist hordes. Here is what I have learned so far. Northern Bali definitely isn't as touristy and commercialized, so that probably is where we'd want to spend some time. The Ubud area is a cultural center but can also be very heavily commercialized and touristy. I started to look at lodging in the area and became overwhelmed quite quickly, so I need some general direction.

We are definitely getting old but still like to be active--half day walks/hikes in beautiful terrain, guided walks where someone will introduce us to everyday life rather than just visiting specific temples or tourist sites, kayaking, snorkeling, biking in not hilly places where the roads aren't so bad you are taking your life in your hands, visiting lovely natural parks etc. Yet, we also know we do not want a trip where we do nothing but run around constantly and act like tourists, especially in the heat and humidity. So, we'll want to stay in places that are conducive to some low-key relaxation.

We are much more interested in the authentic than the tourist-contrived and definitely are not afraid to get off the usual tourist trail for the right kind of experiences. We'd love to visit some of those temples that are set in extremely scenic setting because for us often it is the overall ambiance of a place, rather than the specific sight itself, that is most memorable. We'd like to see some festivals if possible, and I know that on Feb. 11 there should be some full moon festivals. We do not shop or visit spas, and we aren't new-agey. Nor are we into high end dining or luxury resorts with lots of pampering. We are fine with hiring drivers for some days so we can see what we want.

What are your thoughts about Ubud for us and suggestions for a general area in which to stay in or near Ubud? From what I understand much of the town itself is non-stop tourist schlock and people trying to sell you things. Yet, we are also apprehensive about trying to avoid this by being at a lodging stuck out in the country where we will be isolated with no transportation and where we can't walk to get places we want to be.

We really don't need to go to the beach to lie on the beach, but we'd like to spend some time in a shore based location where we could partake in some of the other activities I've mentioned and where we could access other interesting places by using a driver. So, I am guessing this probably means staying on a beach somewhere in the north. Ideas? Thoughts?

We are more than happy to have some tourist infrastructure, but we just do not want to arrive in Bali and be disappointed by the parts that I have read are super westernized, super touristy, and super commercialized. And, I do not want to be in places where I am looked as a walking ATM. Maybe I am looking for a Bali that no longer exists and that is just hyped in myth; if so please tell me so I can look into alternatives.

Thanks much.

kja

You might want to take a look at my trip report.

marmot

I didn't have a chance to respond to your your other thread so I will combine my thoughts here.

Weather
The weather pattern so far this rainy season has been several hours of heavy down pour tailing off to steaming glare then evolving into several hours of achingly blue skies. Before, during and after the rain, it's cooler but oppressively humid. When the sun shines, the humidity decreases as the temperature increases. The temperature is much the same all year round, somewhat cooler near the coast and at altitude. I don't find the climate debilitating, but then I like the tropics. I find that the low level of residual heat from buildings and pavements, the (mostly) clean air and the lush vegetation mitigates the impact of the heat and humidity, but I would still advocate laying low midday.

Where to go in Bali
Ocean
I live in Petitenget (north Seminyak) because I like the ocean and sunsets and have a surfer in my family. It doesn't sound like any of the southern beaches are what you're seeking, so I won't recommend them, but I would note that with the exception of Nusa Dua, south Bali has developed in a haphazard manner with a large dose of Aussie surfer good natured goofiness. All of Bali (aside from one unfortunate 8 story hotel) is low rise and the Balinese and their temples and ceremonies are everywhere. It's not Miami beach.

The best, undeveloped beaches in Bali are probably in Lombok. Another area that I like is the wild west of Tabanan and Jembrana regencies. Mostly surfer "resorts" (using the term loosely) with simple accommodations and dramatically empty windswept beaches.

North Bali
Once you get north of Seminyak on the west coast and Sanur on the east the beaches are volcanic black sand which can be hot as blazes. There are several pleasant communities around Amed and Pemuteran, but I don't know that I'd travel half way around the world for a north Bali beach.

The north coast has a different micro-climate and micro-culture from inland Bali -- more arid and more Islamic. There are several pleasant beach communities around Amed and Pemuteran, with decent snorkeling and laid back resorts, but the beaches are less than impressive.

Ubud and inland Bali
Ubud refers to both the town and the wide area surrounding the town in all directions. Because the development both in and outside of Ubud town hugs a series of river valleys, you get lush vegetation everywhere.

I wouldn't write off the town of Ubud entirely. I find it charming in small doses -- some very good Asian restaurants, excellent performing arts, museums, artisan workshops and powerful temples. The walk along Champuhan ridge smack in the middle of town is beautiful and easy.

You're right there are a mind-numbing number of choices in accommodation. If you stay in town you can walk everywhere. If you stay outside of town you'll get more exposure to nature and village life. Both have their positives. Either way, transportation is readily available.

Some resorts I like are: Uma Ubud in town, Alila and Alam Sari out of town, any of the Koman group. (Balinese call all hotel accommodation resorts and all rental houses villas, whether they're humble or grand.)

Other parts of Inland Bali
As you go north of Ubud, development tapers off. There are several active volcanoes and mountain lakes. I would look at the area around the towns of Munduk and Sidemen for extraordinary scenery and unpretentious village environments. East Bali is known for artisan textiles. If you look at a map you'll see that the area from the southern beaches north to Ubud only comprises about 25% of Bali. There's a lot of nature out there.

What to do
Bali doesn't have many "must see" destinations aside from the sea temples and rice terraces. "Walks/hikes in beautiful terrain, guided walks where someone will introduce us to everyday life" is EXACTLY what Bali is all about and the ever hospitable Balinese will love to share their island home with you.

Kayaking isn't so common but you can stand-up paddle, surf, snorkel, raft and bike. You can find all sorts of village walks, bird walks, market walks, spice walks, coffee and chocolate growing walks, rice terrace walks, temple walks. Or you can just wander off by yourself through the rice paddies.

Temple ceremonies and processions take place in every part of Bali most every day, especially as you note around the full moon. A good guide or the concierge at your resort will know what's going on and will help you get outfitted. I like the mother temple at Besikih though you need a guide to run interference through the hawker gauntlet.

Informal classes on Balinese cooking, offering making, batik making, mask carving, natural healing are also a lot of fun and a good way to fill up the "mad dog" hours. I understand you're not spa inclined, but Balinese massages and scrubs might change your outlook.

What not to do
Avoid Kuta/Legian, Sunset Road, the town of Denpasar. The sea temples at Ulu Watu and Tanah Lot are beautiful but can attract big crowds, especially at sunset. I HATE the monkey forest!

Will you find what you're looking for?
This is the toughest question to answer.
Bali is a small island, with a landmass a little smaller than Delaware but 4 times the population. It gets some 2.5 million foreign visitors annually and heaven knows how many from Java, so yes, tourism is inescapable. But despite the onslaught, the Balinese way of life -- Balinese Hinduism, village tradition, rice cultivation, performing arts and artisan crafts and a deeply held connection to the natural and spiritual worlds -- has not been commercialized or degraded.

julies

Yes, this is definitely going to be a destination on our trip! Until now I haven't had nearly as much time as I would have liked to explore all of the Bali options and advice because I have been intent on trying to get our Myanmar itinerary and lodging choices there nailed down right now because (a) our three weeks there will be the first stop on our itinerary and (b) it is high season there, so every day I wait means that fewer places are available.

Marmot--I had briefly skimmed your extensive and detailed and helpful answer but had to put it aside for a while when I would have the time to thoroughly investigate what you advise. Then, for some reason, when I did have time I couldn't get this website to load. But, now I was able to have the time and get logged in.

This is extremely helpful advice on all aspects of Bali. I took a look at the lodging options you suggested, but none of them are quite what we are looking for probably. So, basically as far as lodging pretty much any villa would be a good choice? That is the type of lodging we frequently prefer.

Thanks you so much for telling me about the blazing hot black sand! I know how hot regular tan sand can get here in the summer, so I can't imagine what black sand in the tropics would be like.

kja--Great and detailed trip report; it took a long time to read so I can't imagine how long it took to write. (I believe you also had some very helpful advice for our trip to Sicily a couple years ago.) Although we do not want to be on the go every single second like you are, I found many helpful suggestions in your report.

Kampoeng Joglo Abangan looks marvelous (and the price is right). Despite the fact that I am normally an obsessive researcher about lodging, I just might follow in your footsteps for both this and the place you snorkeled. Why did you choose to spend your last night in Ubud in a different place rather than staying at Kampoeng Joglo Abagan again? And, after having had 6 days in the Ubud area, do you wish you'd stayed in a different section of town? I know us well enough that we would want to be out of the noisy, touristy center of town but yet close enough to walk to restaurants. Often finding that perfect balance between convenience, walkability, interesting area and relative quiet can be difficult. Some of the places that marmot suggested looked lovely, but without transportation we will not want to be stuck out a ways.

Hot and humid! Hot and humid does have me a bit worried, but we'll work around it.

And, if one of you can give me a clarification, I'd appreciate it. kja, you relate the story of when you went into the family compound for the (I believe) cremation. You were allowed in because you were wearing a sarong. Is a sarong the only appropriate garment for an occasion of this type? We have spent a lot of time traveling in India so I have a fairly extensive wardrobe of very modest clothing for hot climates and often wear a mid calf length skirt. Is something like this not considered appropriate? Or, must it be a sarong with sash?

Thank you both!

kja

I'm glad you found some value in my trip report!

My reasons for changing hotels in Ubud were actually quite mundane -- my original plan had been to spend 7 nights in Ubud, then 1 in Bunutan, and then 1 in Jimbaran so that I could have a sunset walk on the beach and spend some time in Denpasar before my flight. Marmot and Kathie convinced me to abandon the idea of visiting Denpasar, and without that, the time in Jimbaran would not have made sense for my preferences. But by then, I couldn't switch my reservations in Ubud to fit my new plan. In the process, I realized that I didn't want to pay as much as I had planned for the place I had originally booked in Ubud, and so started to explore other options. I found the Kampoeng Joglo Abangan, but couldn't reserve it for all the nights I would be in Ubud and so decided to take advantage of the opportunity to stay elsewhere for my last few nights. And without knowing the places, that made sense to me, as it meant that I would not be putting all my eggs in one basket, so to speak. (IIRC, there were only 6 reviews of the Kampoeng Joglo Abangan when I booked it -- NOT enough to give me a whole lot of confidence!)

For my needs, the Kampoeng Joglo Abangan was a good fit. It's a bit quirky, though, and it's very young owners / staff have, I think, a bit to learn yet about how to run the place. Here's my TA review:

"I spent 6 nights at the Kampoeng Joglo Abangan in late May / early June 2016, and found this small lodging to be charming and very well located.

"My bungalow was huge, with a lovely net-hung 4-poster bed in the center and with counters and shelving units and seating lining most of the walls that were not windows. One full, long wall was devoted to floor-to-ceiling windows providing a lovely view of the small, landscaped pool. I was initially a bit concerned about privacy, but I only saw others in the pool once, and there were (of course) heavy drapes. Among the minor quirks -- none of the counters was wide enough to hold a suitcase and the shelving units held only a few hangars. The huge bath area held a vanity with substantial counter space, but despite a bathtub, the area seemed a rather poorly designed wet-room.

"I was very pleased with the location, which suited most of my interests in Ubud quite well. I had been a bit concerned by some reviews that referred to the walk uphill to reach the lodging, but was pleased to find that the hill was not very steep and not very long. And once there, one encounters any number of inviting seating areas and charming artifacts scattered among the grounds.

"The young staff were very sweet and seemed eager to please. As an example, I had booked here, in part, because of its then web-site promise of an “all day” restaurant – something that mattered to me because I knew that I would be in transit all my first day there. When I arrived, and learned that I had gotten there after their restaurant had closed for the day, I showed them that web-site, and to their credit, they made me a delicious dinner. And I was impressed with the range of tasty dishes this little place offered for breakfast.

"To be clear, the Kampoeng Joglo Abangan is not a 4 or 5 star lodging, but IMO, it has much to offer and am very glad I chose to stay there!"

Ubud itself is very walkable, with lots -- LOTS -- of restaurants.

As for the sarongs, I trust marmot will weigh in, but my understanding was that a sarong, with sash, was required for admission to the family compound during its cremation-related ceremony. And BTW, an Indonesian sarong is not the same as the squares of fabric one ties in various ways that I had always thought defined sarong -- an Indonesian sarong (or at least those used in Java and Bali) is a tube. You might google it and/or look for a U-Tube showing how it's worn. (That's what I did!)

A sarong with sash was also required for entry into any number of temples, but with them, you can generally rent one at the entrance. I was allowed into one on a day when I was wearing long pants; I have no idea how common that it. It certainly would not have been acceptable for the family event.

marmot

In Bali you can find two types of villas: free standing villas which have their own staff and facilities, or villas that are part of a complex or a resort and that share the resort's facilities. Kampoeng Joglo Abangan is what I would consider a villa resort: 6 separate villas that share a common restaurant and pool. Joglos, which are actually Javanese, are beautifully hand-crafted wooden houses.

I haven't been to Kampoeng Joglo Abangan, but it looks quite nice, and it's centrally located. Somewhat uphill to Ubud Central, e.g., Ubud Palace and Monkey Forest Road). Downhill then serious uphill for western Ubud, e.g. the Neka Museum. It isn't clear to me from the website if the rooms have air/con. Whether you need it in Ubud for sleeping is really personal preference. I can do without it, but my husband absolutely requires it.

Ubud has sprawled in all directions and depending on where you start some destinations will be within walking distance, some not. Walking in Ubud can also involve some severe uphill and downhill and some wickedly uneven, broken, blocked sidewalks. Motor cycles are a menace.

Transportation is readily available in Ubud. There are no metered taxis but your resort or restaurant can arrange a car and driver for you. Or you can flag down a car on the street. In central Ubud you will get repeated queries of "transport, transport?" If you find a driver you like you can arrange for him to pick you up for future trips. You usually pay for short trips with a flat rate which now is about IDR50,000. For longer trips you can pay by the hour, by the day or halfday or by the destination. Rates vary widely but the going rate per hour is about IDR125,000.

When you visit a temple you are requested to wear a sarong and sash. In theory, this rule applies to all ceremonies whether at a large community temple or a small temple within a family compound, but in practice it's loosely applied. If there isn't a ceremony going on, long pants or your mid-calf skirt may be acceptable. You'll have to follow the lead of your guide or the temple caretaker if you don't have a guide.

The Balinese sarong can be either a tube or a 2.0 meter length of fabric. The sash can be anything, usually a solid scarf wrapped around the waist to demarcate the the symbolic separation between the upper and lower body. Balinese men usually wear two layers of sarongs and a folded headcovering called an udeng. Balinese women will wear a long sleeved lacy top called a Kebaya, but westerners can wear any long sleeved shirt. Balinese prefer floral or geometric patterned sarongs. Plaid sarongs which are worn by Muslims in Java are not a good choice.

You can buy sarongs, sashes and prefolded udeng and have them ready to go as you tour, or you can ask your guide to provide on outfit for you. At some temples you can rent sarongs and sashes for your visit. It's okay to wear the sarong over pants or shorts and it's okay to tie it in a knot to keep it from falling off. The point is to show respect.

Not clear how many nights you'll have in Bali, but I'd still encourage you to spend one or two farther out in the countryside to get away from the buzz of Ubud. It would give you a different perspective on village life and the Balinese interaction with the natural world. You can certainly visit various parts of Bali as day trips from Ubud, but staying in the rain forest, along a river valley or in the rice paddies is a different experience.

progol

So much great info here. One of these days, we WILL get to Bali (and Java).

julies

Long sleeve blouse only, or is a 3/4 sleeve blouse okay?

Our plan is very loose at this point, and I can flex the amount of time we will have in Bali. Right now I am looking at between 19 and 22 nights in Myanmar (still trying to finalize this), perhaps 8 nights (7 full days) in Bali, and that would leave us between 8 & 11 nights in peninsular Malaysia where we want to visit Georgetown, Malakka and Taman Negra National Park. Our flight home is from Kuala Lumpur so we will need to spend 1 night there.

Yes, in Bali we plan to visit more than the Ubud area, but I just don't quite know yet where or which direction would best fit us and how many days we should plan there.

We are typically slow travel people who like to visit an area more in-depth rather than just run around frantically, so I am more than happy to hear comments about the number of days I am allocating to places. We would much rather spend more time in a really good place and eliminate a place that might not be so great. It is just so difficult to know ahead of time which places will fall into which category.

My husband keeps reminding me too that we typically prefer smaller, charming towns to big noisy urban areas. And, seeing lots of natural beauty in an environment that is different for us is of key importance. Using the US as an example, we are much more in the category of visiting national parks and gorgeous natural areas than visiting cities unless they have charm and historic interest.

Thanks you for all of your thoughts.

julies

One more quick question: Is it especially worth it to try to get there for the day of the full moon? Or, since you say there festivals every day a good concierge could help us to find some would that be fine?

Feb. 11 (the day of the full moon) is right on the cusp of the time when we are contemplating arriving. Much of it depends on timing of other stays elsewhere, so that is why I am trying to figure out if the full moon day really is different and special.

marmot

3/4 sleeves should be fine for temple visits. The objective is to cover the shoulders and upper arms.

I wouldn't worry about missing the day of the full moon (though February 11 is also a lunar eclipse.) There are temple ceremonies, cremations and processions taking place somewhere in Bali everyday, at temples, but also at holy sites, on the beach and along the road. They tend to cluster around the full and new moons, but there are all kinds of arcane religious calendars at play, and every temple has its schedule apparently only known to the priest. People who run resorts and villas, guides, drives and the Ubud Tourist Information Center are all good sources. Big ceremonies often go on all night . Cock fighting and gamelan and masked dance performances unfold over time with a lot of waiting in between.

Your resort will also give you a list of the dances being performed each night in the Ubud area. Even though the audience is mostly tourists the dances, notably at Ubud Palace, are of high quality. I'm especially fond of the kecak dance at Jungunan.

For natural beauty and village life I'd head to the areas around Munduk in the northwest or Sidemen in the northeast. Both are in the highlands so a little cooler than Ubud, and both offer easy trekking to sleepy villages and stunning scenery, through mountain forests, waterfalls and coffee and cocoa plantations.

Munduk is a destination for musicologists studying gamelan.From there it's a short drive to the north coast beaches and Bali Barat National Park. Also Lake Bedugul which is beautiful but a bit over-touristed. Sidemen is in the center of hand-weaving of the extraordinary Balinese textiles. The ancient village Tenganan is nearby. From there you can connect to Tampaksiring, Mt. Agung, Besikih temple, Kintamani, Amed and the northeast coast.

I can't recommend specific places to stay but there are many homestays, B&Bs and small family owned resorts in both areas.

julies

Once again, thank you marmot--

I will take a deeper and longer look in to the areas you mention away from Ubud.

I am also going to take a look at some waterside locations for a few days of R&R. I certainly wouldn't go halfway around the world just to go to the beach on a two week trip, but ours is six weeks. I know we will need a couple days just to rest and relax. For us, the shore is a good fit for R&R because we enjoy walking beaches, hiking headlands over looking the ocean, snorkeling, and observing the sea life and nature that we don't get at home here in the upper midwest of the US. My husband is also a saltwater fly fisherman, so if we could find a place for him to indulge in that for a couple days while I sit and read it would be marvelous.

As I have more time and get into my Bali planning more, I am now starting to think I just may decide to go with the flow and devote the time we need to really visit Bali and then just work with however many days I have left for peninsular Malaysia rather than trying to divvy the time up to make sure we also get to see Malaysia too.

About how many nights would you suggest in Bali just for the Ubud and one other good location to explore other parts of the island? Then, I can add on shore/beach time if we decide to do that.

marmot

You're preaching to the choir about the allure of the ocean. I actually would travel half way around the world for a beach.

All of the beaches in Bali have pluses and minuses. Some are better for walking, some for snorkeling, some for swimming, some for surfing. The west coast beaches tend to get debris during the rainy season. The east coast lacks the drama of the big wave, sunset side.

Bali has two high tides and two low tides each 24 hours, and the variation in tidal reach can be extreme, so at any particular time walking on the beach can be easy or impossible.

The Amed area (which comprises the villages of Amed, Jemeluk, Bunutan, Lipah, Selang, Banyuning and Aas.) would offer many of the activities you're looking for. Walking would depend on the beach -- some are smallish coves, some are longer stretches. You can also snorkel, fish, canoe, kayak and stand-up paddle -- though all are on a low-key, rudimentary level involving traditional outrigger fishing boats.

A google search shows me that there are indeed sea fishing charters available along the east and north coasts. It's not something I've had experience with.

I think you could easily fill up 4-5 days in the Ubud area and 2-3 in another part of Bali. If you have the time, you might enjoy the beaches in Lombok or the Gili Islands.

angel1

Nyepi day in Bali - Tuesday, 28th March 2017.

julies

We have finally nailed down some aspects of our trip and I have a few more questions. After 22 nights in Myanmar (including 3 at a beach there) we have 16 full days to split between Bali and peninsular Malaysia. We arrive in Bali on Feb. 11 (the evening of the full moon) and have the rest of the month of February for our trip.

Is 6 or 7 nights too long to spend in Ubud, splitting it between doing things around town and doing day trips? We don't want to be on the go non-stop (and are looking at booking a nice place for relaxation) but don't want to be bored either. And, we aren't shoppers or spa-goers. I am contemplating booking a deluxe room in this place Ketut's Place http://www.ketutsplace.com/contact.html. But, I still haven't made a firm decision. Comments on location?

Then I will take a look at the Munduk and/or Sideman areas for a few more days. Is this about the right amount of time to spend on Bali? We are more typically slow travel people who believe in the less is more theory. And, for this trip we do not need to sample absolutely everything. If it turns out that Bali really has a lot to offer, we'll take as much time as we need there and just spend a couple days in Malaysia before we fly home. Plus, some things I have read suggest that Bali really is more interesting than Malaysia. True or not, I don't know.

Can I just use any long narrow scarf I have as a temple sash?

Thanks again.

marmot

Ketut's Place is about a 10 minute walk to Ubud Palace. It used to be on the northern outskirts of town, but the town has grown up around it. Ketut's is an old time Bali institution, a mainstay of backpackers and students for decades. I've never stayed there, only visited. It's fairly basic, atmospheric in a mossy overgrown sort of way, but could use some serious maintenance. My son and his college friends LOVED it, but I'd find a week there dispiriting.

You might also look at the Alam Shanti group (different from Alam Sari). They have several properties south of Ubud that are very popular with Fodor's posters, though I've not been there myself. Also, I may have mentioned before, the Komaneka Group, in Ubud and in the countryside.

I could easily fill up 6-7 days in Ubud and surrounds. I don't think location is that important as it seems to me that wherever I stay in Ubud -- in town or outside of town -- I end up driving to wherever I want to go. The town itself feels claustrophobic to me. I prefer to be out in the rice paddies, river valleys, but it's a matter of personal preference.

It's been some time since I've been in Georgetown/Penang, so I'll defer to the opinions of more recent visitors. Melaka has some attractive colonial architecture, but, to me, it's limited in appeal. Balinese and Peranakan culture are quite different so it's difficult to compare. I find Bali, Java and other parts of Indonesia more interesting, but then I'm biased.

Yes, you can use any long scarf as a sash. You can also buy cheap temple attire in Ubud market. (Aside from that Ubud market goes on my "avoid" list.)

kja

Well, you already know that I spent 9 nights in Bali -- 8 of them in Ubud -- and that you thought my pace too fast for you. Your trip, your call.

Good luck!

Lolazahra

Hi.

You trip is coming along so nicely.

In my opinion, you can absolutely spend 6-7 nights in Ubud. While I spent 4 nights in Ubud and 6 nights on the beach in Seminyak, I regret not spending more time in Ubud. I'm a beach person and we were across the street from the beach in a lovely villa, but I realize I did not even scratch the surface in Bali and it was too rushed. And while I am a shopper, I did not shop at all as I was spending time at temples, traipsing through rice patties, going on an amazing full day bike ride and enjoyed a really nice cooking class which took place inside the traditional home of the proprietor. Similar to you, I came to Bali after a long vacation in Japan. Next time, I'm coming straight to Indonesia.

I think you might like the Alam Shanti. Their various properties look serene and beautiful with nice pricing. As mentioned by marmot, it's a favorite of lots of Fodorites. I stayed at Komeneka Bisma which I thought had a nice location in Bali. Off the beaten track but walking distance to town for dinner and such. However they have several other locations too.

Again, you are putting together a stellar combination. Happy planning.

julies

You have all been so helpful!

marmot--Thanks for the head's up about Ketut's Place. It had appealed to me because of the unique grounds and the emphasis on culture (including a Balinese dinner they organize once a week and explain about Balinese food). But, we are waaay past the young college age backpacker stage. And, the reviews on TA were mixed.

The Komaneka Group is too pricey for us.

Right in between these two in price is the Alam Shanti group, and they have several different options that might work for us. I think I am going to book a week at at Alam Indah.

lolazarah--Can you please tell me more about your bicycle trip? That is something I know we would be interested in doing.

marmot

Nyuh Kuning where Alam Indah is located, is a pleasant town, just south of Ubud central. There are a lot of restaurants and shops in the area.

I'm not so keen on walking through the monkey forest -- both because of the monkeys and because of the motorcycles on the path -- but if you do Alam Indah is just about 10 minutes from the south part of Ubud. Otherwise it's a short drive.

You might also like Alam Sari (no connection to the other Alams) for an outside of Ubud experience.

All resorts/hotels offer cultural activities such as Balinese dinners, cooking classes, hiking or biking trips. You will find a lot of options.

I especially recommend the Balinese village cooking "class," a cooking demonstration combined with a village experience. The participants do a fair amount of supervised chopping and grinding while learning about the ingredients and techniques, then get a wonderful lunch. Alam Sari has a great program combined with a village tour. Other resorts will have their own connections, like Alam Indah's at Cafe Wayan.

The workshops offered by the ARMA museum in Ubud are also very good.
http://www.armabali.com/arma-culture/workshops/

ms_go

We stayed at Alam Jiwa (part of the Alam Indah group) in Nyuh Kuning about a year and a half ago and really liked it. There were some shops and a few restaurants along the main street once we got past the monkey forest, but not nearly the concentration as in central Ubud. I remember a school and a soccer field around where we turned off for the hotel, and it had more of a neighborhood field. We walked on the path alongside the monkey forest into central Ubud a couple of times a day. It took about 10-15 minutes. Don't carry any plastic grocery bags or you may attract some unwanted attention! The hotel is lovely, with views onto the rice fields, and very relaxing. They arranged a great driver for us for a few day trips. I would definitely stay there or at one of their hotels if visiting again.