I think the Amandari is a victim of its own success. When it was built 20+ years ago it was a one of a kind experience -- now villa accomodation is the norm for luxury resorts and infinity pools abound.

The Aman group has certainly maintained the level of elite service at all their resorts. The views over the river valley are still stunning. The area has seen more development, but not oppressively so.

Other opeions outside of Ubud would be Como Shambhala (formerly the Begawan), the Four Seasons and Kayumanis. Como is probably the most luxe, Kayumanis the most intimate. The Four Seasons always gets very good comments, but it's a bit too imposing for my taste. Kupukupu Barong has just been renovated.

I'd also highly recommend the Amankila on the Eastcoast for Aman TLC plus seaviews and stunning architecture.

In the south Bali beach areas there are lots of luxury options both in resorts and private villa developments. My personal favorite is the Legian in Seminyak.

Dear Marmot:

Thank you for your help. Would you recommend the Oberoi?

I haven't stayed at the Oberoi so this is just my observation.

The Oberoi is one of the oldest properties in Seminyak. It's set on spacious, lovely grounds, and the beach is good (except for what has always seemed to me to be a suspicious drainage ditch on the boundary). The villas are classic old-style Bali -- charming or dated depending how you see it. Same for the pool. Same for the staff, from what I'm told.

In my opinion the newer resorts in Seminyak offer more -- I'd put Legian way above the Oberoi, even though it's more of block style building than villas. I also like Samaya and Sofitel. I haven't been to the new Anatara yet.

All of these properties are within half a mile of each other on the same beach and all have good access to shops, restaurants and spas.

There are also about a zillion private villa developments in the area. They're not directly on the beach but nearby.