Back in Thailand

Old Jan 8th, 2011, 06:42 PM
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Back in Thailand

We flew JAL BIZ class out of freezing Chicago. The flight had a great number of BIZ Class seats but very few takers. I would say it was only 1/8th filled in fact we had a 2nd small BIZ cabin completely to ourselves except for one other person, which made it easy and private to do stretching excercises in the aisle. All was smooth and on time arriving in Narita where we had a 4 hour wait for our connecting flight. Having spent other periods at Narita before when flying this route we were happy to discover a new (to us) Sakura Lounge which offered many extras that the other Sakura Lounges had not had.
This one is on the Main side of the terminal and even has a restaurant serving all kinds of hot soups and meals and salads, all complimentary, There was also a special bar in the self serve restaurant which had a huge selection of rare and interesting scotches. Was amazed to get a (free) 17 yr old scotch from Islay , a little Scottish Island we could see from our House on the Mull of Kintyre, 40 years ago when we were newlyweds.

The connecting flight to BKK was jam packed and the seats did not lie flat , and even though it was a late evening flight, they kept the lights on all the way. Other than the welcome aboard glass of champagne, we didn't even partake in the dinner service. A bottle of water each was all we needed . We were so whacked we managed about 3 hours of sleep anyway.

The arrival at BKK was trouble free, immigration only took about 7 mins and our luggage was first off the belt. After a stop at the ATM for some Bhat, it was into the taxi line, only a 3 min wait and, we got the smallest taxi ever made assigned to us, it was one step up from a Tuk Tuk but after tying the trunk down, bags on our laps and a big suitcase in the front seat we were off for the final few miles that day for our first two nights at the Lebua at State Tower.

To read about our experience there see a recent posting from me under the Lebua at State Tower rate sale topic line. I will say again just WOW!.

Our first morning, after a fabulous breakfast at Lebua we walked to Sapan Taksin Pier and set off on a River Taxi. What a treat to be back on the river, We were fairly close to the front and I had forgotten how much river spray comes back on you on a windy day. Soon remembered though and told Vince (dh) that I'm pretty sure I ingested some of that murky river water as my entire face was soaked! Oh well. We were in search of the flower market as I wanted to buy my usual scads of orchids for the hotel room. We thought it was at River Boat stop 15 but just couldn"t find it. I was having jet lag and brain freeze as I just couldn't remember where it was. Bob, I know you often go there, we've completely forgotten where it is, can you help?
We had a Nancy Chandler map but it wasn't marked though I had been sure it was near to stop 15.

We did find a lady selling flowers, but not what I was looking for, however, bought 3 bunches of purple Orchids 2 bunches of roses and a bunch of long stemmed mums, total cost $2.75 (US) The lady was so pleased with her sale she gave me one of the "bracelet style boquets" free, which I later placed at a shrine outside Lebua and sent healing wishes to GPanda with that.

Will report the rest of our first day later, but now have to pack up and head over to the Marriott where they have their work cut out for them to top the Lebua experience!
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Old Jan 8th, 2011, 07:15 PM
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Sawasdee kah, Khun Sue and DH! So glad you have made it to BKK and have had a nice first full day there. Even though Lebua was a real WOW experience, I'd be surprised if you weren't really just as pleased with the Marriott. There are those places that just feel like 'home' and for many here, the Marriott is that place.

Will be following along as you report in.

Carol
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Old Jan 8th, 2011, 08:09 PM
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Welcome back krub!
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Old Jan 8th, 2011, 08:18 PM
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it is the stop right by memorial bridge.....there are two bridges very close together, like 200 feet as a reference... off the boat, walk left about 1/2 block, turn right and you are there after one block....spend like crazy....
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Old Jan 9th, 2011, 08:38 PM
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First full Day:
As our hotel was so close to Harmonique we felt our first meal should be Thai so that's where we went. For the first time I didn't enjoy my meal there as much as previous times, however, it was completely our fault.
We started with a new (to us) favorite appetizer crispy eggroll with crabmeat. It was really full of crab and delicious, a great start to the meal. We love the fact that you can order small portions here so we had a nice selection, Chicken Cashew, Chicken Ginger, Chicken green curry, and one other dish that I can't remember right now. It all looked delicious, however, neither of us remembered to say the magic words MILD. I started having trouble right away, must have bitten right into a super hot chillie and could barely feel my tongue. Looked up to see Vince with tears running down his cheeks. He's not one to complain though and soldiered on but I had to call it quits and fill up on plain rice as each mouthfull seemed hotter than the last, except for the Ginger Chicken which was medium. I thought we should have our usual dessert there the wonderfully lightly battered fried bananas with coconut ice cream. We ordered then waited and waited, and I was just saying let's call it a night and just leave as jet lag had attacked, when we saw one of the waitresses come running in with a bunch of bananas that she had been sent out to purchase. Ahh Bangkok, and, 10 additional minutes later out come the delicious fried bananas.
One interesting thing - you who have been to Harmonique over the years surely remember the two "elderly" ladies, sisters they are, who run the place. The one who walks the floor of the Restaurant usually wears some old time beaded long dress from the 60's and you feel kind of transported to another time. Well this time the "old 60's beaded lady" had gone in for a new look. She had her hair pulled back in a pony tail, was wearing a rhinestone teenage T Shirt, and tight blue jeans and high heels. It was kind of funny.
Back to LeBua for a great night's sleep, then it's over to the Marriott for the next week.
More later.
Sue
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Old Jan 9th, 2011, 08:54 PM
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Hi Hanuman, still grateful for your wonderful reports during the protests last year. I see this morning's papers BKK Post and The Nation are outlining the new programs for the poor. On first quick read of the basics of the proposals it seems rather like Thailand is going in the direction of the US, putting many new programs into place when they haven't figured out how they are going to pay for them. There seems to be a familiar theme of tax the rich running through this. One thing I really didn't like to see was as you went down the list it was, The Government will provide, The Government will see to it that, The Government will oversee, The Government will give. I know there are bigger and better minds than mine out there, and the problems are no easy fix. Just hope that "The Government" will not develop a class of government dependent people here and tinker with the strong work ethic I see all around me.
I don't mean to be heading off in a political discussion here and know full well the problems here and the chasm between rich and poor are far greater than in the US. However, it does seem that when Taksin paid all those thousands to demonstrate their message was heard.
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Old Jan 10th, 2011, 01:09 AM
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Yes Sue it's a slippery road. One side promises everything and the other side must outdo them!

Enjoy the good weather but I fear it will not last much longer for Bangkok.
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Old Jan 11th, 2011, 04:27 PM
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The Marriott is as serene and lovely as ever. The last time we were here I was a Silver elite, this time I'm Platinum and got the "royal" treatment on arrival. We were upgraded to a junior suite which offers a bit more room than the regular rooms, however, the view is not as good, though you can sit out on the balcony. We are back down to 1 BR 1 BA after being ruined at the Lebua at State Tower with the 3 BR 3 BA. However, the goodies have been amazing here at Marriott.

As Bob informed me we get our breakfast in the marketplace at 0 charge each day, and with the array of choices, don't feel any hunger pangs until early evening. We also get free afternoon tea with an array of sandwiches, fruit and savory goodies, followed by complimentary canapes and cocktails from 4:30-7:30pm. The evening canapes are a different cuisine featured evening. Sunday was Chinese, Monday was Japanese featuring many dishes and loads of sashimi and sushi from the Benihana Chefs, and last night was all Thai delicacies. All this time the wine (for me) and scotch for Vince was flowing!!! As a result we are not doing much in the way of discovering new or old favorite restaurants.

It's our 40th Wedding Anniversary, and in our first year of marriage our brief reunion was in Bangkok when Vince had a 4 day leave from his ship, serving in Vietnam. It is indeed special to be back here, when Bangkok served as our honeymoon all those years ago.

When we got to our suite the staff had made a huge design of Swans, morphing into a massive heart, made out of towels and scattered with rose petals on our bed! How sweet. Later on a bottle of wine was sent up, a box of chocolates and, a little cake decorated, saying happy anniversary. In addition, a small flower arrangemant was on the massive tray. The customary basket of fruit was also in the room, the flowers we bought yesterday, and, growing orchids in the bathroom, and birds of paradise in small vases around. A nice scene eh?.
The first evening we were planning on going out for Indian food, but only had room for a shared bowl of pumpkin soup and a shared Turkey,avocado sandwich in the coffee shop.

I ended the first night here with a trip across the walkway to the adjacent Mall for a really wonderful foot massage. What a lovely ending to the day. Will post the name of the great little establishment so that others who stay here can enjoy the bliss of foot massage.

To bed early as I had decided to get up early the next morning to go to the Flower Market which we have been told begins at 3:00 AM and is gone by 9:00 am.
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Old Jan 11th, 2011, 04:47 PM
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I love reading others' reports from Bangkok, my favorite city. Thanks for sharing the account of your special treatment by the Marriott staff.
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Old Jan 11th, 2011, 08:22 PM
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glad it is working well...

have some of that honey dripping out of the stainless steel gutter like slide....yum.... and the hot mushrooms... and the pastry.... and the 4 min. eggs which karen orders each morning and they deliver to our table...
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Old Jan 12th, 2011, 01:33 AM
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Congratulations on your 40th anniversary! Nice story about your honeymoon in Bangkok. I fondly remember all the different US military personnel who rented houses from my parents back in late 60s and early 70s and they were sort of our neighbor. Always giving me gifts from the PX!
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Old Jan 12th, 2011, 06:47 AM
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I've made two long posts today and neither of them sent to the thread. This is a test.
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Old Jan 12th, 2011, 07:19 AM
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It's my understanding that the editors had mandated, and the participants had implicitly agreed, not to discuss politics (esp Thai politics) in this forum.

While I would enjoy a lively political discussion, and while I would appreciate the opportunity to provide background information that many participants might lack, it seems to me best to adhere to the forum owners' requests.
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Old Jan 13th, 2011, 09:40 PM
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Well it seems I've brought a sick computer with me. I ended up writing a long post three times and each time my 'puter siezed up and it would not send.
Will try a shorter recap.
Up very early first morning at the Marriott, off to the Flower market, bought oodles of deep purple/violet, dark yellow with brown spots and cerise orchids, along with bunches of greens. Back to the Marriott by 8:30 am for their belly busting breakfast, outside looking at the river. Just wonderful. Our room now looks like a florists shop, and, when we came back from breakfast our housekeeper had made up our room and put two more vases of flowers in our room, white orchids and pink roses. He said he knew I must like flowers.
We spent a couple of hours the the lovely pool, me in the sun and Vince in the shade.
Back to the room for a quick shower then off on the Marriott boat to Sapan Taksin pier and the BTS.
Followed Carols great directions from Chitlom station to find Platinum Fashion Mall.
Before typing more I will send this to see it it "takes"
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Old Jan 13th, 2011, 09:58 PM
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We ejoyed the walk all along the skywalk through Central and liked the bird's eye view of the incredible Malls. We couldn't find Co co banana on the 5th floor, however, we did find tons of fantastic shoes and I bought 3 pairs for a total of 600 Bhat.... a GREAT bargain so I'm happy. Then we find out there is a 2nd Platinum building next door so then do find co co banana, but I find no glass beads and nothing else that is to my taste. I have to realize that Vince really hates shopping so, I have to speed scan things and make quick decisions no time to sort through lots of items. I'm happy though as I found the lovely sandal/shoes. We start to walk back and decide to take the skywalk further to the Siam Station to get back. Like the skywalks a lot, but understand why Bob recommends a tuk tuk, it is quite a distance. However, after all the free food we have been eating we need the excercise. Back to the Marriott for canapes and drinks. Then I went over to the Royal Garden Plaza (2nd Floor) to have a wonderful foot massage. I have used Tuk, she is the owner at Yin Yang for the last 5 nights. The cost for the last 5 nights , and hour each session, including a 50 bhat tip each day are still less than I pay for one 50 min massage at home. I think I'm in heaven What a full and great day.
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Old Jan 13th, 2011, 10:06 PM
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Hanuman, I had written in my posts which did not appear that had I known, if there was anything we could have brought for you from the PX I would have been pleased to, however, I do think that everything available and even things that arn't available can be purchased in Bangkok. If you are near the riverside Marriott, we'd love to meet you for a drink.
We leave for Phuket Sunday morning, and will be back here on Jan 30th for five more days. Upon our return though we will be meeting up with a Thai couple, The Glanboots, Mr Glanboot is the Deputy Chief of Police for BKK and his wife and her boys came to our home in Chicago at Christmastime. She will be back in BKK when we return from Phuket and I believe they have a few things planned for us.
Sue
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Old Jan 13th, 2011, 10:50 PM
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Don't worry Sue Bangkok today has everything, well almost. I am in Ubon, far East of Thailand, until Sunday so perhaps sometime on your return trip we can meet up. Actually I am having brunch with other Fodorites on the Jan 30th so please let me know if you are interested in joining us. My email is [email protected]

Enjoy Phuket!
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Old Jan 15th, 2011, 05:38 AM
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Would love to join you Hanuman, however, we don't get back to BKK until 2:30 pm on the 30th so it seems too late to join you all for brunch.

We have seen most of the tourist sights on previous trips so we are always looking for a few new things to do. The weather has been really great, have never been too hot, and those Marriott Ferry rides on the river are always a very pleasant start to a trip or a relaxing end.
The one morning we woke up that it was raining, it had already stopped by the time we had breakfast. We decided to take the orange flag River Taxi Boat to the end of the line. This was a nice river trip, where you leave the high rise city behind and get to the outskirts of BKK. The end of the line was stop N30 and though the terminal town didn't have a lot to offer, every street stall has something of interest.

I bought a bag of Jackfruit to bring back to our room. Love that totally different taste, texture and tropical look. The Boat trip is about one hour each way from Tapan Taksin Pier for a $1 (US) per person round trip. Before leaving the end of the line town we stopped at a riverside restaurant for a Singha, a refreshing break. There is always something interesting to see, where else might you see one of the waitresses who had just washed her hair, come to the restaurant and sit in front of the fan with her head down (right in front of us) and brush out her hair to dry?

The Marriott evening Canapes, (along with cocktails) in the Exec Lounge have been outstanding. Each evening a different on site restaurant does the honors. Tonight is our last night here until Jan 30th when we return but they have had the following mini tastes from all these restaurants
Chinese/Loy Nam
Thai
Benihana /Japanese
Italian/Brio
Indian
Trader Vic's/ Pan Asian
and, Chinese again/ Loy Nam

More later about our time in BKK - Leaving in the morning for Phuket.
Sue
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Old Jan 16th, 2011, 05:24 PM
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During the previous week some of our Thai adventures were:
A visit to the Jim Thompson Outlet, a first for me. Was looking for a few little gifts to take back and found a few items that appealed to me including a pretty shopping bag which I shall be using throughout this trip.

On the way back on the skytrian we decided to stop off at an area we hadn't walked around before. Nana station, It was described on the Nancy Chandler Map as an area for middle and upper class Thais. We wandered around looking at the stalls, saw many clubs restaurants, walked down a dead end soi and all of a sudden, I squealed OMG it's the Pickled Liver!!!!
I had no idea that PL was in that area and when you consider how huge and sprawling BKK is, what chance was that that we cam across it by accident. Of course we went in and asked for Mayeng (sp) Unfortunately it was around 3:30 in the afternoon and she didn't get in until 5 or 6 so we never got to meet her Carol. I left my name and mentioned some of the regulars to the two ladies that were working there. My Vince was totally unaware of what was going on, and was saying, how do you know this place, who are all these people you are mentioning, who is Mayeng? I think he thinks I lead a secret life! Too bad we missed her, but at least I can say I've seen the PL now! We stopped for a Singha at a nice outdoor cafe with a good view for people watching- one of my favorite passtimes. Lots of Europeans in that area. Back to Nana station and I'm beginning to give in to a hurting left knee which is not liking all the stairs. I am noticing that many stations do not have escalators which has never bothered me in the past. I've been trying to ignore this knee and noticed it before when I use the step machine at the gym, now I've pushed it past the limit and will regard long flights of stairs differently.
We decided to forgo the Italian canapes in the Exec Lounge and head back to Harmonique for dinner, this time remembering to say the magic words mild/not hot. Great excellent meal our usual favorites and we didn't have dessert as we still had this beautiful cake in our room that Marriott had sent us.

One day as we had no where set to go we just got on the Marriott Boat to Sapan Taksin Pier, and, I had often seen a huge Wat right before the boat gets to the pier, and, it was at the foot of a building which has always fascinated me.
First the building, a huge, fancy skyscraper which stands out as you trverse the river, I have always called it the haunted ghost building. It is along the style of State Tower, but abandoned and derelict. I've now read that it was caught up in the 1997/8 Asia Bust and never completed even though it was built to the very top, several finishing touches were omitted. To walk by it and see it close up is erie, you can see that people have been able to get in there and use stairs to access many floors and all the inside of the balconies are covered in graffiti.
More later - have to join dh, going to the pool.
Sue
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Old Jan 16th, 2011, 08:21 PM
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i think that building is the sister of the state tower... it has the same shape and the same balconies....maybe hanuman can clue us in.... and yes it has been there empty and unfinished for ever....much like the hilton was for over 10 years....

sue---when you come back, take a cooking class on the monaha boat at marriott.... 2800 B but a once in a lifetime experience....need 4 people to do it...
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