Asia Forums

Post New Topic

Recent Activity

View all Asia activity »
  1. 1 process for arriving in Narita airport
  2. 2 Travel within Japan
  4. 4 Family Trip to India late May/early June
  5. 5 Bangkok Hotel- near BTS & late check out
  6. 6 Trip Report Tasting Sri Lanka
  7. 7 Vietnam to increase visa cost for Americans
  8. 8 So excited - going to Siem Reap
  9. 9 Hotel Chang Mai
  10. 10 Advising hotels of time of arrival?
  11. 11 Trip Report Floods in North and Central Vietnam
  12. 12 A comprehensive guide for tourists visiting North Goa
  13. 13 Bhutan paro Tshechu
  14. 14 Trip Report Thailand
  15. 15 Trip Report Nywoman an older single traveler explores Taiwan and Japan
  16. 16 Kindly request/need 30 days Thailand+Vietnam itineary advice
  17. 17 Help with SEAsia itinerary
  18. 18 Ankor Wat - sunset , sunrise, itinerary
  19. 19 Hotel in Hanoi
  20. 20 India help needed
  21. 21 Beach hotel Thailand
  22. 22 Cruise to Vietnam -Excursions from cruise terminal
  23. 23 Trip Report Permit alert Andaman Islands
  24. 24 Sim cards and adaptors
  25. 25 Singapor/Malaysia/Thailand trip - Need advices!
View next 25 » Back to the top

Trip Report Back From Sri Lanka & Maldives

Jump to last reply

Welcome to my trip report on our anniversary holiday to Sri Lanka and the Maldives!

Click to see the thread on our itinerary and expectations of the trip before we went.

Please visit the bathroom, pour a drink, then sit back and join me as I relive through the written word the most fabulous journey we have ever taken!

Before the trip:

Due to our schedules we were, for the first time ever, unable to research, plan, and reserve this trip on our own so we sought the assistance of a travel company.

We were unable to find travel companies in the US (we would quickly learn Americans are not common in Sri Lanka or Maldives) but we found some in the UK. There were a couple of other places we researched but one thing or another discounted them so we settled on Tikalanka:

It was a bit out of our comfort zone though really at the start. One, we were working with a stranger (aka sending gobs of money to a stranger) on another continent. Was that his real name? Was the “office address” on his website really “an abandoned warehouse” outside of town? Two, it was for travel to the other side of the world. What if we got there and there was no guide? No hotel reservations? And no answer to our calls and emails pleading for help in the strange land? Hubs: always been a cynic. Me: eased into it during law school (me exclaiming with sincere surprise: the FDA doesn’t solely have our best interests in mind?).

But it all worked out perfectly!

We had a general idea of the areas we wanted to visit and John Beswetherick from Tikalanka emailed with us for over a month to answer all our questions and make great suggestions in order to tailor the perfect itinerary for us. What I was particularly pleased with were his lodging offerings. I gave an example of a place we found online we liked for one city and said “find us places like this in the other cities” and that he did! More on the lodgings later.

John took care of all the reservations (room/half board-vegan) and ticketing for travel and paired us with a fabulous guide. More on him later.

We were very happy we chose Tikalanka and would def recommend their services.

We registered with the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program through the Bureau of Consular Affairs at Man I hated that website. I had to enter stuff over and over and over and over and over again it was maddening.

We went to Penn Travel in Philadelphia who recommended the following for our trip:

Shots. Lots of them. Tetanus, Hepatitis A and B (got regular A and given timing an accelerated version of B which is a series over a few weeks), Typhoid, Polio (got when we were little but the care provider said something about benefits of getting it again though I cant recall the details). Was about $1,000 total for both of us and was told insurance wont cover but to submit anyway “in case someone is asleep at the wheel.”

Mosquito protection. Lots of it. We sprayed all our clothes with Permethrin and (after ridiculous amounts of research on various brands) packed ample amounts of Ben’s Deet Spray. More on the mosquitoes later.

Pills for Malaria. I wasnt sure this was really necessary based on my research but figured if they recommended it, wed do it. Malarone was the drug of choice. Began taking 2 days before arriving in mosquito zone, took once a day while there, and 7 days after departure. No side effects for us. And no malaria so far.

Pills for poo. The healthcare provider spent a great deal of time on drinking water safety and we heeded his warnings. We brushed with bottled water, drank bottled water, and showered with bottled water. Just kidding. But he did say to beware in the shower not to inadvertently take a big refreshing gulp. He recommended bringing extra toothbrushes just in case we accidentally put one under the water which I thought was a good idea (we were so cuckoo about it though we never needed the extras). The poo pills were in case something went awry and despite our efforts to avoid contamination we got sick-people-poo. You may know it by the more common but less fun term “travelers diarrhea.”

He also recommended avoidance of raw vegetables and of fruits that arent able to be peeled since they likely had contact with unbottled water.

Medivac insurance (which we already had thanks to research on Fodors).

He closed with what seemed a strange and random piece of advice at the time: if you wake up with a bat in the room assume you have been bitten and medivac home immediately.

This may all seem extreme and may not be everyones preference but again these measures were precautionary and we were happy to play it safe (especially when conjuring visions of being in the hot dusty middle of nowhere climbing temple steps when the runs hit or slapping a mosquito that bites you as you watch the elephants trudge along the plains later realizing the effer gave you dengue fever).

Our final step in preparing was packing. For the fashion conscious: Clothing for the Maldives was basically maxi dresses for me, lounge pants for him, bathing suits, and flips. Clothing for Sri Lanka was cute but comfy, lightweight, and generally quick drying. Hubs chose REI zip offs, some other cargo-y pants, eddie bauer tees and long sleeves (which he really only used on the plane) and a pair of Teva tennies. I chose a few simple leggings, an array of very thin and slightly fitted long and short-sleeved tunics to layer from alternative apparel, and a pair of Keens. Chose a Patagonia shoulder daypack which was great because it was big enough to carry passports, small bug and sun spray, money, sunglasses, etc. but was small enough we couldn’t over pack and defeat the purpose of leaving behind a giant backpack. Both had buffs and giant sunhats which screamed TOURISTS.

We were diligent to be packed and ready well in advance and avoid our usual mad rush to pack up until the last minute and immediately speed to the airport. We were packing until the last minute. Then sped to the airport.

More to come…

111 Replies | Jump to bottom Add a Reply
  • Report Abuse

    Oh can I just tell you that I am so glad someone has actually read this?

    Still havent gotten over the jet lag so I spent basically the whole night writing-it took FOREVER!

    Thanks santamonica!! We will be getting into the nitty gritty of the actual trip next. I encountered in my research beforehand (and wondered myself) about some of the issues I addressed above so just hoping it helps others.

    Lizzie! I am green green green with envy! I really hope you choose to go. It absolutely exceeded my expectations. I swore I wouldnt tell anyone this but I actually shed a tear when we left. It was such a powerful and beautiful experience. And unless you are close by and can easily return I would totally consider throwing Maldives in as well. Even if just for a couple of nights. We arent "beach people" but it was a nice way to chill after the excitement of Sri Lanka!

  • Report Abuse

    This is a seriously good report. I would hope many, many people read it. I for one, will anxiously await your next installment. Your excitement comes through the written word loud and clear.

  • Report Abuse

    Sri Lanka was one of our favorite trips - and we will return. Amazing place! I'm looking forward to hearing all about your trip.

    (Any reason you didn't use a local agency rather than an agency in the UK? We prefer to use local agencies when possible.)

  • Comment has been removed by Fodor's moderators

  • Report Abuse

    Looking forward to hearing more of your experiences. We were in SL at the beginning of the year during the floods despite which we enjoyed our time there. Booked via a local operator from the UK but experienced a few problems!

  • Report Abuse

    barbrn thank you! reading your comment really made my day!

    hi gigner50! yes, agreed agreed, totally! in this instance we went the hyper dilligent route just b/c this was a very expensive trip for us and so wanted to do everything in our power to make sure we werent the cause of something going wrong!

    kathie i feel the same: we will return!

    crellston yes i believe it was your trip report that i read re the floods! asking the driver whether the floods would inhibit an excursion (to Anuradhapura maybe?)!

  • Report Abuse

    Picture time! If youd like to follow along you can click here:

    If you see only one picture so far uploaded you are in the right place.

    Ok lets head to Sri Lanka!

    Day 1 Sunday
    British Airways flight from Philadelphia to London.

    Pertinent points: night flight, lots of turbulence, screaming babies, frequent toot smell*, 3-4-3 configuration so had a third wheel with us, forgot to request vegan meal and flight attendants were very accommodating, had some Pringles, though had seen it in the theater-watched Super 8 twice.

    *Hubs, in frustration: everytime I come back to my seat it smells like farts.

    Day 2 Monday
    Arrival in London.

    It was grey, cool, windy, and rainy. Rented a car, drove to Stonehenge (Picture 1) and “the English countryside,” were too tired to do so and were crabby patties the whole time, had researched a Jack the Ripper Tour to take that evening (so close to Halloween how could we resist!) but given the weather we skipped, stayed at Hilton London Dockside as a freebie when booking our BA flight (was ok-a bit removed from things), no place in the vicinity appealing to eat that night so settled for a local pub which was only ok. Luckily had some Pringles back in the room.

    Day 3 Tuesday
    Day in London before departure night flight to Sri Lanka.

    Had researched and decided to visit the Highgate Cemetery. Can I just tell you how cool this was? The epitome of a spooky cemetery-it was beautiful though. Pathways framed with dense lush undergrowth invited us into a land of vine-shrouded obelisks heavily dotted with crooked crumbling headstones whose faces time had wiped clear. Id share pictures with you but, oh, our new memory card was faulty. No images saved-boo! Image searches provide an accurate portrayal. Here the website: The cemetery is divided into 2 sections-East and West. While I think both would be very interesting we had time for only one and my research revealed West was the way to go. You can only explore West with a cemetery-appointed guide and you are encouraged to make an appt a week in advance. The East you can explore on your own at your leisure. The West tour took just under 2 hours and ended up being really one of our favorite things we have done in London. All locals on the tour by the way.

    SriLankan Airlines night flight to Colombo.
    Pertinent points: about 1.5 hours late (we didn’t care), turbulence, screaming babies, flight attendants have pretty outfits, guy in front me reclined seat for entire 11 hour flight.

    Day 4 Wednesday
    Arrival in Sri Lanka-woo hoo!

    Amazed at how quickly we were able to exit the plane. And then amazed at how long it took to wait for the rest of the people to exit the plane after I had to return to the aircraft to locate my work-issued blackberry case.

    Got our bags no prob, customs no prob, changed money no prob, then, while we couldve purchased a washer/dryer set and other various appliances from the airport, we settled on a cell phone for use in emergencies from the Dialog store. About $38 for the phone and sim card. We had considered renting or buying one from National Geographic beforehand but this was just way cheaper and ended up working perfectly (lucky for Hubs who had insisted we take that route).

    By the time we met our guide we were pretty late-given the late flight, the blackberry incident, the money change, and the cell purchase. As we walked toward the airport exit we saw a line of gentleman holding cards with names (I always laugh to think of seeing “Dr. Livingstone” written on one of them). Looking looking looking…there we are! And there he is! Oscar, our guide! The individual whod been enlisted to care for us over the next 9 days cheerfully escorted us to the grey chariot of steel that would, like a trusty steed, guide and protect us as it resiliently motored through the beautiful country of Sri Lanka!

  • Report Abuse

    JJ5 that is so so nice of you! I am ok now-Id been home sick from work back when I wrote that other thread-post fantastic trip! But you are so nice to mention it!! The trip was adventurous and exotic so you are right on! And you know how I said I shed a tear when we left? There were a few times that happened but I really lost it when we were in the Colombo airport getting ready to head to Maldives. As you were going through customs a giant sign said something along the lines of "We hope adventure followed you everywhere you went." It was like that sign was written for me b/c I absolutely felt like that! In reality perhaps everyone feels like that when they leave Sri Lanka but I would rather not know. I would rather believe the country touched me in a way that was special, magical, and that nobody else could understand. I know I certainly feel that way!

    Hi LeighTravel! Thanks for joining! Working on the next bit. I am really excited that people are reading this! I know SL and M arent the most common of destinations and I was really afraid there wouldnt be interest. It def makes the time it takes to type these up worth while! Plus of course it allows me to fondly recollect the great memories just created!

  • Comment has been removed by Fodor's moderators

  • Report Abuse

    Ha yes, the slide show of one santamonica! You will be pleased to know a few others have been added! See below to follow along! Be prepared I am a poor photographer (more on that later) so sadly I know these pictures will not due the scenes justice.

    JaneB hello-I am so happy to hear that! One hasnt travelled until theyve been to Sri Lanka. My own personal opinion of course, heh heh heh.

  • Report Abuse

    Day 4 Wednesday continued.

    Our first day in Sri Lanka was comprised of a drive to our hotel located a few hours away in Habarana. Now, wed read hundreds of reviews left by Sri Lanka travelers and many objected to the amount of time spent in the car, the bumpy roads, and the driving habits of the residents. We found the complete opposite. Well except for the roads-the others are right, they are bumpy. We knew from our detailed itinerary how much time each day would be travel so we were prepared. And we found the driving habits of our guide and the locals to be perfectly acceptable. Perhaps we are simply used to aggressive driving in our country, heh.

    The drive was to take 4 hours but we did end up arriving later than expected due to our delayed flight, rainy weather during the commute, and an accident which halted traffic for nearly an hour. To memorialize our first glimpses of Sri Lanka we took loads of pictures out the window of our van enroute to our hotel. We relished this (and most) time on the road and welcomed the opportunity to dreamily take in our new surroundings.

    As we neared our destination the road grew even bumpier and more desolate. Night had fallen and as we approached our hotel I saw the soft, welcoming flickers of candle light. The proprietress and her two associates warmly greeted us at the end of a lit pathway and led us back to their tranquil lodge set in the forest. Welcome to Galkadawala:

    The lodge was simple, rustic, peaceful, perfect. I love the fact that we arrived at night because the lighting just adds to the vibe and ambiance (Picture 2 ).

    Though it was late they prepared us a fantastic vegan dinner. We were the only guests so the table was set for two and adorned with candle light (Picture 3). It was a lovely experience and, without a doubt, in all my travels, the best food I had ever eaten. And it set the bar way high for the remainder of our trip. And I should say here that, having had zero previous experience with any type of curry/curry powder/curry leaves, plus the restrictive diet, I had no idea what to expect. The curry was much much more varied and delicious than what I had imagined and I was certainly not prepared for the feasts I enjoyed! I soon realized that the cliff bars Id brought from home could remain tucked away in our suitcase.

    Our quarters were just as pictured on the website. With the addition of some roomies who kindly shared their space! There were two little frogs living in our bathroom. One hung out in the cup of the light fixture on the ceiling (Picture 4) and the other hung out in a cubby of the wood trim of the bathroom door (Picture 5). Also, we had two rare birds, a couple, that visited us every morning (theyd built a nest in the upper eave of the wall behind the bed) (Pictures 6-8)!

    The soft lighting was so peaceful (Picture 9 ). We settled in to our first night in Sri Lanka. Well, hubs settled in. I was too excited to sleep! After all, Id just read in the guestbook that a few weeks before the crunching of elephant steps on forest floor greeted a couple at 4am! And while the first few “noises” I heard were more scary than exciting I quickly grew accustomed to leaping out of bed to see the action! Always hoping to come face to trunk with a (friendly) elephant I wouldve been happy seeing anything really-a monkey, a rare nocturnal bird…a dog. Anything. I grew tired of getting out of bed every few minutes to investigate (just to find nothing) so I resigned to sitting up, throwing on my glasses, and straining to see what I could through the mosquito net into the dark abyss. Not one thing. But oh something was out there. Later I learned it was still dry season and the tank (water reservoir) frequented by the elephants had dried up for the time-so the likelihood of elephants visiting was low. On one hand it wouldve been good to know that the first night because I wouldnt have had my hopes up thinking I might be lucky enough to see an elephant but at the same time thinking I could see one right outside my room was pretty exciting. Kind of like Christmas Eve when youre little waiting for Santa.

  • Report Abuse

    Hi thursdaysd! Its ok its not a nit! We just thought theyd be safer with us than at our "hotels" with no walls, safes, etc. Really neither choice was ideal-keeping them with us just seemed the lesser of two evils! Thanks for following along!

    Femi hello! Oh my gosh yes isnt it amazing? Their aubergine curry quickly became my favorite! Those string hoppers were good also! Oh, and forget the name (you may recall)-similar to pancakes? Yum!

    MichelleY hello-thank you! Hoping to post more tonight! I believe next we are headed to Polonnaruwa! Then to elephant land!

  • Report Abuse

    Just drove my spouse to the airport for his gazillionith diving trip to the Maldives. I'm assuming all those shots were for Sri Lanka...we've never even considered getting drugged up for the Maldives, but we're pretty up-to-date having lived overseas for years. Look foward to reading more.

  • Report Abuse

    NatureGirl - I usually have my passport with me too, except for the rare occasions when I have a safe in my room, but I carry it in a money belt under my clothes, along with other valuables. A couple of times I've caught someone trying to unzip my daypack (once in China, once in Portugal).

  • Report Abuse

    Oh oh oh oh I see what youre saying thursdaysd-keeping it with us is ok but keeping it in our daypack was the prob. Got it! Right yeah you make a good point (...noting in my brain for future travels)!

    We joked about what to do with them. Maybe swallow them and "produce" on demand. Heh.

  • Report Abuse

    Hi Melnq8! Right I think these were for SL. He told us they are all good to have if we are frequent travellers. I smiled in agreement but was thinking inside, "I only wish I was a frequent traveller," heheh. Just have to take more vacas though to justify all those shots right?!

    Thats awesome your spouse is an avid diver! We havent been often but of course did partake while in M-more on that later! Thanks for following along!!

  • Report Abuse

    Hi usernameistaken! You will have to wait hmmm 5 more days in trip report time but prob a few more than that in real time as I write out the details. I can say this: if you are considering going to the Maldives, go to the Maldives! I am nearly certain it will not disappoint!

    Here is a teaser video that I watched countless times leading up to our trip (also posted in my other thread):

  • Report Abuse

    Day 5 Thursday

    Our first full day in Sri Lanka began with a yummy Sri Lankan breakfast before heading over to Polonnaruwa. First things first here: wild monkeys. Hilarious. Loved them (Picture 10). And couldnt for the life of me get the Wild Boyz macaque clip out of my mind…

    Polonnaruwa was very temple-intensive of course. There was a lot of land to cover and it was hot hot hot hot (among other clear identifiers carrying a giant bottle of water was a tell-tale sign you were a tourist). Oscar was amazing. I know others have mentioned drivers often try (and fail) to double as guides but that was not the case here. He was def a guide first and a driver second and I think that is the distinguishing factor. We learned so so much from him that day I am embarrassed to admit I cant even remember it all. One tip: throughout Sri Lanka you remove footwear and headwear when in the temple. If you are wearing sandals you will be left barefoot hurting it out across hot stone temple floors. We brought a pair of temple socks for this and it made things very comfortable. For whatever reason this type of activity (ruins, temples, etc) isnt normally our thing but Tikalanka really encouraged us to include the Cultural Triangle area in our itinerary and I am so glad we did. It was really an amazing way to begin our time in Sri Lanka (Pictures 11-16)!

    After Polonnaruwa we were to head to Minneriya National Park to check out some wild elephants. Oscar was concerned we would not observe many (or any) given the tank had dried. This had been echoed by our Galkadawala hostess as well who also remarked things were tough as they waited for the rainy season to begin (I told her maybe wed be good luck charms and the rains would start). He instead took us to Kaudulla National Park (Picture 17). He procured a jeep, driver, and personal park guide who rode with us in the back as he pointed out various flora and fauna enroute to the main event. It was raining, then thundering, and sometimes lightening. The park guide told us elephants do not typically like the rain. They are in the park to eat grass and they do not like the wet/muddy grass. Thankfully there were some brave souls mulling about and we got some good pictures! I will say the grey of the elephants against the wet lush greenest of green grass under the darkening sky was actually very vibrant and gorgeous. I think the rain really enhanced the colors (Pictures 18, 19). There were babies, preg mommies, and even a male hanging around. We learned that the males often roll solo and only really join the herd when they are…feeling amorous. As we wound our way through the park every now and then wed see a dot of an elephant waaaay back along the tree line (Picture 20). The males! Seemed like a sad life I thought! Perhaps they simply enjoy being bachelors.

    Afterwards we headed back to our lodge and upon arrival were told another couple had arrived. Admittedly we liked having the place to ourselves plus we are both actually pretty shy in person so we werent sure what to expect. Conversation over dinner quickly gave way to past travels which made for a really interesting night! Ok, they can stay, heh.

  • Report Abuse

    Day 6 Friday

    We woke up early morning to get a good start on climbing Sigiriya (Pictures 21-23). This was something I was personally super excited about because if you read my other thread re expectations of the trip youll know Id been looking forward to this day for a very long time thanks to Megan McCormick! There are steps. And more steps. And then even more steps. Then you get to the lion paw entrance (Picture 24) and I should say the views even here are rewarding (Pictures 25 and 26). This is a Robert Frost area because you have a choice of two paths: either you sit and wait and watch the wild monkeys pick and eat mites from each other or you continue the climb-the steepest part-to the top (Picture 27). Really though once youve made it this far you can totally see the top and its not at all intimidating.

    Now I will say both Oscar and hubs are a foot taller than I (5’3” versus 6’3”). So one of their steps is like 2.5 of mine. Yeah I timed it. So I am taking breaks when Im feeling out of breath but nothing major. Im young, healthy, relatively fit. I just needed to go at my own pace. Youd think though that I was drenched in sweat grabbing my heart and giving myself last rites. Actually I was drenched in sweat but so was everyone else. Oscar kept encouraging me to stay behind-wait by the monkeys-things are going to get harder. As expected there is a bit of a language barrier so I figured it would be useless to describe the Megan McCormick thing and how I simply had to do this. And the important thing to keep in mind here is I didnt doubt that I could. I just needed to go slower. This fell on deaf ears. Hubs hung back with me which was nice. I should say though that maybe Oscar was thinking we had to keep on schedule or something I dont know. It was the only time I didnt feel totally supported by him so I give the benefit of the doubt. So we are going up up up and I am taking breaks and these random men standing around keep trying to “help” me up the steps. No no no I say I am fine. One guy insists. He works here I guess. And really-cupping my elbow in the palm of his hand isnt really “helping” me. But, since I didnt really NEED help I just rolled with it. Figured it made him feel good to know he was doing his job or whatevs.

    So we get to the top and its nice (Pictures 28, 29). Oscar had given us the history on the way up and then discussed the various features at the top. Mad I forgot to yell Sri Lanka like Megan did. And this was b/c my mind was elsewhere. It was on this:

    Something key I want to point out here: if youve ever done a killer hike-you know, spent hours or even days getting to the summit, you like to chill a bit at the top. I think it wouldve been nice to chill a bit atop lion rock. But we had Oscar standing and the worker standing kind of like “waiting” for us. Nobody said anything but it just seemed like they were ready to go right away. I mean, I get it. Youve prob been up here a hundred times but its all exciting and new for us. What I would like to propose is a. have a discussion at the outset how you want things to be (e.g. go at my pace and leave me be to hang at the top as long as I please) or b. your guide give you a time frame to complete the trek-warning that the day is in your hands. If you are late it might throw things off. Ok, understood. So he gives 3 hours say. And then waits at the base. You hike up yourself, at your own pace, then have down time at the top. And let me tell you going down is a cinch (certainly compared to going up) so you dont need to leave as much time assuming you are in good health. One other tip I would like to offer is wear light-weight shoes. Personally Im not into those Teva type sandals but something like that would actually be ideal (I am assuming they are light but could be wrong). My keens were on the heavy side which made things a bit harder-it was like hiking in my 1995 doc martens. And really, even flips are ok. Its not rugged terrain, just steps and stuff. And I guess now is as good a time as any to specify to try to get flips with the nubbies on the inner sole. I had smooth inner soles and when the rain came in Sri Lanka, and it did come, they were a nightmare to wear-feet kept slipping out, feared Id bust that crucial in between part…

    Ok back to the topic at hand…we get to the bottom and hubs and I discuss tipping the worker. We decide the equivalent of $1.00 is good (more on tipping later). He says no, it is $10.00. Are you serious Clark? And I recall how he had quietly asked Oscar earlier where we were from. Not sure if that played into it but arguably suspicious given how things turned out. And now we find out hes not a “worker” but just a dude that hangs out to “help” people for money. Naïve us? Sure. But we didnt know. So he gets mad and I am glad hubs handles it. Finally the fake worker accepts the cash for his ten minutes of “help” and leaves us alone. Oscar explains this is common and that a firm “No” is in order in these situations. Hopefully my experience will prepare others in the future! Wasnt a big deal just a bit annoying.

    Note at the base of Sigiriya there are stalls selling stuff. “Tat” as I have seen it described in other reviews which cracks me up. It was like the Bahamas for a minute there with everyone offering us the best price on the best goods. Was waiting for someone to ask me if I wanted my hair braided. Anyway, if you are looking to buy tat you can plan to find it there beyond that regal banyan tree (Picture 30).

    Our itinerary had us heading back to the lodge to escape the hottest part of the day but since we were out and about and the next stop was Dambulla (cave temples so out of the sun anyway) we decided to press on. When we arrived (Picture 31) we were welcomed by our lovely host (Picture 32). As we approached the steps leading up to the steps leading up to the steps leading up to the steps leading up to the caves (Picture 33) two fighting monkeys rushed by us. This was very strange as we had not witnessed aggressive behavior to this point (but of course knew it existed). Then, out of nowhere, this big guy swings out of a tree towards my hubs and in one quick action grabs a plastic bag from his hand. We had a small bag of bananas wed purchased from a roadside stand where wed tried Thambili (milk from a king coconut) and then scooped out the flesh from the coconut with a piece of itself (Picture 34). It was madness! I guess they are serious about their bananas. Really though we recognize this couldve ended badly so were thankful everyone was ok. The thief ran his newly acquired goods back up the tree and sat solo on a thick limb smashing his face into the bananas, peels and all (Picture 35). Meanwhile, this guy literally appears to be in heaven with his snack (Picture 36).

    The series of cave temples are really very interesting and of course Oscar was a plethora of information (what I liked learning the most was re the offering of flowers to the Buddha). Some are large, some are small, some are more simple while others are more ornate Pictures 37-40). Aside from the section of stone walkway b/w where you leave your shoes and where you enter the temples it is all shaded so if you happen to be barefoot here its not an issue. During our visit we shared the temples with a large group of young girls presumably on a field trip. I really enjoyed watching them offer flowers to the Buddha. They were adorable and all smiled shyly at me as I saw them looking and taking note of all the things different about me from them. It was very sweet. We did not encounter many white skinned people in our daily excursions and certainly didnt encounter any our age (most were older) so we were a bit of an anomaly but we knew that in advance so were prepared.

    After Dambulla we headed back to our lodge (seeing a lot of “CheDay” signs along the way (Picture 41)) with the afternoon at our leisure. We chose to spend time on the hammocks (Picture 42) listening to birds, watching monkeys, and noticing the clouds roll in. Later that afternoon the downpour began. As our hostess and her associates lowered the large outdoor curtains against the incoming water she looked at me, smiled, and yelled over the sound of the storm: You brought the rain! That was one of my favorite moments at Galkadawala. Strange to me now how special that seemed but I can still recall the feeling and it is good.

    (Picture/Video 43)

    We gathered for dinner as the rain fell around us. The female half of the other couple shrieked and quickly stood from the table waving her hands. The male laughed. Hubs and I looked over as the staff congregated to address the cause of the freak out. Did you see that?! she asked. It sounded like a helicopter! A big black bug! I should say here that up to this point I hadnt seen many bugs at all. Some ants in our room (not near our bed) and important to note: not a single solitary mosquito. I almost wished I had seen the giant black bug-I am not "good with bugs" but surely I wouldve been brave!

    Our conversation with the other couple lasted long past dinner. Discussion of an elephant’s nature led to them telling a story of a friend who had an encounter with a bat on her honeymoon. Shed been bitten by a bat. She knew shed been bitten and was in the healthcare field so realized the consequences. Still she did not seek aid. A few days later she grew feverish and finally sought care but it was too late and she passed away. Tragic. The discussion returned to elephants and how the couple had walked to the dry tank earlier that morning and seen elephant footprints! I was so excited to hear this because it meant the elephants were in fact among us! But at the same time I was sad because I didnt get to see those footprints and now with the rain I knew theyd be washed away.

    The night ended as we headed to our respective quarters while the rain pounded hard on the timber roof like a lullaby.

  • Report Abuse

    Waiting for more! I have been wanting to go someplace in Asia to see elephants and after reading your trip report, I am more convinced to go to Sri Lanka.

    What are temple socks? Are they just socks that you used for the temple???

    Did you see bats in Maldives? Last year I was there and there were a few bats I swear were the size of cats. The first few times I was slightly terrified!

  • Report Abuse

    Hi Lizzie_17!

    Right yes! Id written them as "temple socks" on our packing list and thats what we continued to call them! Then we just tossed them in our daypack on temple days.

    I should say though that easily most peeps were in their barefeet. It was def too hot for my comfort, however, so I was glad I had socks!

    I havent been elsewhere in Asia so Im not sure how the SL ellies compare but what is cool about SL is that they are in various parks (wasthu mentioned some) located throughout the country. So like you spend a few days at each place seeing the area plus checking out the elephants! Since the country isnt big (the size of West Virginia I remember reading) you could totally do that no problem!

  • Report Abuse

    Hi NatureGirl19317,

    I am loving your report. I was born in SriLanka, my family emigrated to Australia before my 2nd Birthday, but have not been back there for over 15 years. We are thinking of taking the kids there in 2013, so I am taking alot from your writings.

    I know how time consuming a trip report can be, particularly one so well thought out and thorough as yours, and appreciate your efforts.

    Looking forward to hearing more.

  • Comments have been removed by Fodor's moderators

  • Report Abuse

    Hi shanek!

    Thank you so so much! It really means so much to me that you are enjoying this!!

    I am envious you have such a rich history in Sri Lanka-I bet it will be such a wonderful and fulfilling journey to take!

  • Report Abuse

    Day 6 continued

    We returned to our rooms and milled about preparing for bed as we listened to the rain outside. I shed clothes pre-shower and head to the bathroom and close the door given the lack of walls in our room. There is a window next to me and I take a seat to pee and watch as the wind billows the small thin curtain to and fro. Then, it happened. It buzzes around me and immediately I feel a tinge of guilt for thinking I couldve handled the “helicopter” incident better at dinner. The biggest blackest beetle I have ever seen in person, pictures, or movies. I am getting the gross chills just thinking about it! Naturally, I scream. It was like a horror movie-due to the powerful rains nobody heard a thing. NB: when one is freaking out clear and rational thinking is not in the picture. In my bout of flails I manage to get the door open and get the attention of hubs. He runs in and gives the normal reaction when faced with an alleged crisis: he gets mad at me. WHAT!? he asks with an angry face. Then, still shrieking, I frantically point at his feet where the beast is buzzing around along the ground and he does a funny little hitch kick and starts matching my school-girl shrieks. He grabs the thin small curtain from the window and tries to shoo it out. Not happening. The beast flies through the open bathroom door into the bedroom. He follows it and I think at least I am safe now. Wrong! Another one flies into the bathroom! Now I am completely helpless! I cant even stand up less I flash full-monty to the workers still below. I scream. Again, nobody hears. Eff the nakedness I run out to the room, grab something, anything, and cover the important parts and rush onto the bed under the mosquito net! Whew, I think I really am safe under here! Hubs continues to fight the first beetle while the second one now buzzes around him. I yell encouraging words through the netting and point out coordinates of the black shelled monsters so he can attack. “One behind you!” “The other one is by your leg!” “Get them out get them out!” I yell…”But dont kill them,” I add. He pauses from his large arcs of window curtain shooing motions, turns to me, and gives an expression as if I have just asked the absolute impossible. As he returns to his attacks I continue to shriek and exclaim-still completely amazed nobody hears this. Finally, it ends. He joins me under the netting. Sweaty and out of breath he says They are gone-and I think I just injured them not killed them. We head to the shower in high alert and take turns: one on watch while the other is under the water to bathe. We felt a small amount of protection given we were behind a shower curtain-trying to forget about the ample openings on the top and sides. Afterwards:

    The power has gone out. We light the candle. We head to bed and, as if he had just slain dragons in my honor, we fall asleep in eachothers arms (Picture 43).

  • Report Abuse

    That's hillarious. The poor bugs must have been terrified.

    I just thought I would share a link with you that shows a preview of a fabulous 10 part series that recently began on Australian TV.

    It is about the return to the country of his youth by acclaimed Chef, Peter Kuruvita. It is 50%, travel 50% cooking and 100% entertaining. Hopefully somone with post the entire series soon.

  • Report Abuse

    Oh that was great-thanks for sharing!

    You know such a coincidence-we just watched No Reservations Anthony Bourdain Sri Lanka tonight!! You should totally check it out if you like watching about food.

    (And interestingly this ep is from 2008 so things were much different during his travels.)

    Id been meaning to watch this episode before we went but Im actually glad I didnt. If I had I wouldve known what to expect re food and Im really really glad it was such a great surprise!

    Mmmmmmm the food is so so good! Did I already say aubergine curry is the best ever?

    I am so excited for your potential trip-let the countdown begin =)

  • Report Abuse

    I have seen Bourdain's Sri-Lankan sojourn.

    He is a trooper. Got a bad case of Columbo Belly but soldiered on.

    What I like about the Kuruvita one is that it is just as much about the culture, people and places as it is about the food.

  • Report Abuse

    In less than 2 hours, the decision will be made on the host city for the 2018 Commenwealth Games.

    It has come down to a 2 horse race between Queenslands Gold Coast, and the coastal village of Hambantota.

    If you added up ALL the beds in Hambantota's hotels, you could sleep 1000. The Gold Coast would have single Hotels that house that many.

    Hambantota lost nearly 3000 people in the 2004 Tsunami.

    Is there a great story abourt to unfold? I certainly hope so.

  • Report Abuse

    Sadly, this morning we knew our time at Galkadawala was coming to an end as our itinerary had us heading to Kandy.

    Breakfast was a sad affair as I thought how I would miss the place, the people… I waved a tiny gnat away and the caring staff immediately hooked up a fan and directed a gentle in our direction (so attentive). The other couple joined us and showed us pictures the man had taken. That morning he had gotten up early to photograph the sunrise. He scrolled along on his ipad through some really amazing pictures-it was clear he was very, very talented. He said that at the moment it was only a hobby but that perhaps in the future it would become something more. As he scrolled along, selecting ones he deemed worthwhile to discuss, I considered what was so different about his photographs than mine. And I considered this because I, too, wanted to be able to so beautifully memorialize my experiences. I concluded that, whereas his pictures evoked emotion from anyone who viewed them, mine evoked emotion only from me-and that they were largely empty when viewed by others. He had a way of capturing moments such that even if you werent there you felt that you were. That, I think, is truly a gift. My wishes of wanting even a fraction of his talent were interrupted when I saw the most beautiful photograph ever. There they were: the elephant footprints (that I was so sure would be washed away by the harsh rains), one after another, pooled with rainwater, glistening in the morning sun. It was one of the prettiest things I had ever seen. And I missed it.

    Disappointed, I headed upstairs to pack.

    Hours later, in Kandy, my heart absolutely sank. Why did I think I had missed the opportunity to view those amazing footprints? He had taken those photos just that morning before breakfast. They wouldve still been there. I couldve walked down to see them. By that time of course (in Kandy) I really had missed them. No chance to go back now. Earlier when I had expressed my fondness of the photo he took he offered to send it to me. Very kind, indeed. But you know it is just not the same. Being there is what mattered. Frustrated with myself I sank into my seat in sadness. That is my only regret from Sri Lanka.

  • Report Abuse

    Waiting to hear your impressions on Kandy. I was born in a Nursing Home across the street from the lake a stones throw away from the "Temple of the Tooth".

    Dont sweat about the missed photo opportunity. You will just have to go back.

    Here is a link for the Food series that I mentioned.

  • Report Abuse

    Thanks for the link shanek!

    "This video is not available in your (my) region."

    Hopefully they will be released on DVD and we can purchase them to view!

    Temple of the Tooth-you dont say? I have an interesting story about that coming up!

  • Report Abuse

    I will try and post what I have recorded to You Tube and send you a link.

    I will just need to get my 9 year old to show me how to do it.

    Can't wait for your Temple story. I remember on our first trip waiting 2 hours in a queue with various ceremonies going on around us to try and view the "relic". After the wait, we were a bit underwhelmed by what we actually saw, from the distance that we were allowed to view it from.

    What did I expect from a Tooth at ten paces?

  • Report Abuse

    "I will just need to get my 9 year old to show me how to do it." Heheh.

    Tooth story not in this installment-you will be waiting in anticipation until next time!

    But glad someone will be-I think we are the only two left on this thread!

  • Report Abuse

    Day 7 continued…

    Enroute to Kandy we make two interesting stops. The first is to a Spice Garden. This is right off the roadway and I imagine a stop for many tourists. It goes like this: they show you around the garden, show you the products made from the plants, then shuttle you into the gift shop offering keepsakes at inflated prices. From the getgo I figured this and had resigned that Id go ahead and plan to buy something at the end-this way I didn’t have to stress about it and could enjoy the “tour.”

    And really, I did enjoy it. My husband wasn’t interested but I thought it was cool to see where so many familiar spices originate. You follow a pathway flanked with spice trees/bushes as it winds through the garden. The trees are labeled and along the side of many are tiny dishes which contain the corresponding spice. So next to the nutmeg tree is a container of nutmeg, etc. Hed have you smell the spice, show you what part of the plant is used for the spice, explain how it is processed, etc (I liked this) and went on to describe how each spice cured this and that (I didn’t like this). “Remedies” included: arthritis, gastro problems, acne, liver conditions, wrinkles, headaches, sore joints, fatigue. Most of the tour was geared towards these cures so I think I tuned out a bit during this part though still looked like I was paying attention. We tipped him a few bucks, bought an overpriced tiny jar of aloe, then continued our journey towards Kandy.

    But not before we made another very important stop. Over the years of reading or in conversation or maybe books or movies have you ever heard of a fruit that smells so so so so bad that it is actually banned in some public places? That the smell is enough to make some people physically ill? Well I had. And I simply had to try it for myself. The fruit in question is called durian. Id mentioned to Oscar I really wanted to try this so when we drove by a cart he immediately pulled over to fulfill my request (Picture 45). So, this fruit is about the size of a cantaloupe and super pointy on the outside. The cart operator cut the fruit in half and handed us the quilled snack housing two pingpong ball-sized fleshy seeds. The points were pushing too hard into my soft hand so I was unable to dig the seed out. The gentleman kindly then held it for me and helped scoop out seed 1. Ok. I don’t think it smelled *that* bad, truth be told. I was expecting it to smell like those gross wafts you get every once in a while on a city street times 100. It wasn’t. The consistency of the flesh as you bit it away from the seed (and I made a specific note to remember to explain it to you just like this) was like when youd heat up velveeta cheese- that thick creamy layer of skin that formed on top? That’s what this was like. It did not taste like velveeta though. A few chews in…what is that? I know this flavor but cant place it… Hubs had since scooped and bitten and he called it: garlic. Yes, the first few chews were almost like garlic before it turned just a tad sweet in your mouth. I couldn’t quite bring myself to eat all the flesh from my seed. My husband barely finished his and looked sickened when I offered him mine (he refused). At least we did it though! Until the cart operator showed us we still had a whole other half to eat. Oh... So, this was not a juicy fruit. Not a refreshing fruit. Probably not a fruit Id reach for at the market. But it was very cool to be able to bite into a piece of infamy.

    Oscar had noticed a problem with our chariot of steel so his boss, the Sri Lankan business partner of Tikalanka, Pathi, met up with us as we neared our next lodging in Kandy. Pathi had a much stronger personality than Oscar. We are a bit more laid back so felt good we were paired with Oscar who was courteous, professional, and genuinely eager to please (not that Pathi wouldnt have been these things-just a different personality, thats all).

    The four of us stopped for some “short eats” (which are basically “snacks”-some sweet, some salty, some meat, some veggie-no real distinction other than they are smaller items) at what looked like a banquet hall. I am not quite sure what happened next. There was a lot of low conversation and hand shaking between Pathi and a man, or two, in suits as we entered. It reminded me of a politician shaking hands, kissing babies. Maybe he was saying “these are our guests, treat them well” because that they did.

    They escorted us to their display case. As usual, Oscar kindly relayed dietary requests to the staff (no milk? no meat? no eggs? etc). Oscar was fond of fish rolls so he picked up some of those. They suggested a vegetable roll I think it was (Picture 46). Maybe a meat item or two for hubs. There were some spicy vegetable patties (not the correct term) they chose for me as well as some sweet mini muffin looking items. Plus the best thing ever-what looked like giant sugar cookies. They werent. But they were similar. Big sugar crystals on top of large cookie-ish discs that were crispy and chewy at the same time (Pictures 47).

    After we made our selections we were ushered into the banquet room. Off to the side I saw (empty) buffets set up and centerpieces gathered which is why I say banquet room. They bring us tea, water, etc. The vegetable rolls were good but not my fav. Bready with only a little inside. Was only a bit spicy-esp compared to those patties which were mad spicy and immediately required a beverage cool down! The muffins were tasty-sweet, cakey, thick (Picture 48). And those cookies? Gooooood. Trust me, I tried to a. ask and b. remember all the delicious foods we had throughout our journey but without taking notes it was simply impossible. You will just have to take my word for it! And if you see baby muffins or look-alike sugar cookies: buy them!

    Ok onto our next stop-our lodging for the next two nights as we explore Kandy! Remember early-on I mentioned how Id found a place online I loved? And wanted to Tikalanka to find others like it? This was the place Id found online.

    Like our previous lodging, the road grew bumpier and more desolate. After a sharp turn here, going up a hill there, we arrived at Kandy Samadhi Center:

    Our welcome was not like what we received at Galkadawala. I should point out though that perhaps this is because we had Pathi with us. He immediately hopped out and began walking and talking with who we later learned was the owner. Discussing business we guessed? Not really sure. We sat in the car, kind of waiting to see what was next. We were eventually given a signal from others to exit the van. We were told to follow Pathi and the owner, who were a ways ahead of us now, to our room. We started off-then oh called back for a cool towel and a refreshing drink of juice. So, I mean, I think the welcome had the potential to be nice but it was just very disjointed. Again, I think b/c maybe the host had pulled away and the others weren’t sure how to proceed. I will admit I was a bit disappointed though-I mean, Id been waiting for months, literally months, to experience this place. And I set my expectations high. And coming from Galkadawala, the bar also was set high. Nonetheless I stayed positive and tried to give the benefit of the doubt.

    So I will take a moment and explain the layout of this property. The eating area is the building which is also the main entrance-but it is on the second level so you cant really see into it from street level. All other rooms are up in the surrounding hills reached by steep winding stone paths (more on that later). All rooms except ours. We walk a ways down the road to a small, tight cluster of buildings. We can see through various opening this is storage: equipment, etc, piled up. Also, there are some various items lying around which, if I am going to be honest, should probably be picked up before guests arrive. What looked like a large overturned bashed in oil drum, random piles of rocks and cinderblocks. And at the moment it looks like this guestroom, due to the location and the surroundings, was more of an afterthought than a planned lodge offering. I point this out for a few reasons which I suppose I will spell out here: you are removed from the rest of the property (the rest of the lodgings are back near the main house). Good or bad, that is a fact. Also, see below re staff….

    We go down a flight of steep steps and arrive at a massive bright blue wooden door with a giant, willy wonka type key in the hole-I loved it (Picture 49)! Also thought the little lantern sitting nearby was very cute. We open the door and the room is perfect! Large open-air design (Picture 50), the river rushing by right below (Picture 51), great rustic yet stylish décor, concrete bathroom-it is really just great. “And no mosquitoes!!” our host excitedly proclaims! “You know-we haven’t seen a single mosquito since weve been in Sri Lanka,” I respond with equal excitement-starting to think all our preparation at home (sprays, creams, pills, etc) was unnecessary.

    We are asked to return to the main house after we are settled for a tour of the grounds. We are left with two umbrellas. As we tour our awesome room we notice what we guess are staff milling about the neighboring buildings. One down to the left, one up to the right, one walking shirtless down the bank to the river. We didnt feel unsafe or anything at all like that but they were there and they were looking-probably just curious about the new guests I suppose. I mention this because you are kind of secluded and kind of not. On one hand you are secluded from the main property and the other guests and on the other hand you are staying near the staff.

    We walk up the road back to the main part of the grounds for our tour. It begins to rain pretty steadily as a host guides us through the hills showing us flora and fauna, the other rooms offered by the resort, the laundry area, the house pets (more on these furry friends later), the yoga and meditation area. I see what reminds me of the lone cypress on a neighboring hill (Picture 52) and ask if hes climbed to it-no, he says-though he admits he has tried, and failed! He asks us about America, Area 54, films, music. The rain is harder now. Remember I told you about the flips with the nubbies on the inner sole? This is where I learned that. It was impossible to walk in my flips-they were soaking wet and my feet were slipping out with every step. I noticed our host had no probs whatsoever in his flips: note, the nubbies.

    By now the sun has set and gas lamps have begun to light our path. We end the tour as our host hands us flashlights and shouts over the rain Dinner is at 7:30. But…there is a resort jeep right there. We arent the Sakaros but it would have been cool if wed gotten a ride back down the road to our place. Not a huge deal, just saying. So we make our way down the rainy potholed road to our room to a very unpleasant surprise. Mosquitoes. Lots and lots and lots of mosquitoes.

    They are flitting around our lights sure but they are really in full force in the inner corner of the hallway leading to the bathroom and then also inside the bathroom. We used an entire full can of our Bens spray. There were mosquito bodies everywhere. I want to make sure I make this clear because while I want to be fair to Samadhi I have to be forthright because the reality is these mosquitoes can carry disease and could potentially cause harm to guests: there were a lot of mosquitoes. Now, I do not believe the kind people at Samadhi intentionally mislead, or trick their guests, etc. I am thinking that perhaps this particular room is not often used since it is further from the property thus they simply arent aware? Or because this room is the only one located by the river that somehow makes it a haven for mosquitoes? And since the other rooms are not by the river they dont get mosquitoes and so the resort in their heart of hearts believes there are no mosquitoes? Or perhaps because rainy season had just begun mosquitoes are out but then die down after a few days? I dont know the reason and I guess the reason doesnt matter. There is no netting. There are no fans. These are typically offered to aid in keeping the mosquitoes at bay. But since Samadhi doesn’t think they have mosquitoes they do not offer these items. Just be prepared-I guess that is my bottom line.

    Now onto more fun and positive things: dinner! When we arrived at the dining area on that second level of the entrance building it was like the inside of a castle! Huge wooden tables-each adorned with a giant gas candelabra (Picture 53). That open-air room lit only by candles in the dark night was gorgeous, really. It was breathtaking I will even say. And because we were the only ones present to dine at that time it was as if that beautiful ambiance was created just for us.

    I cant recall what was served that first night. The food wasnt “bad” it just wasnt “memorable.” Remember-we were coming off days at Galkadawala with what I will claim was the best food on the planet so wed been a bit spoiled. Nonetheless it was a pleasant enough event and afterwards we said goodbye to a little friend whod joined us (Picture 54) and we returned to our room where we were warmly welcomed by a blazing lantern by our doorway which had thoughtfully been lit by our hosts (Picture 55). I will say here that while some mosquitoes remained the bulk of them, without a doubt, were gone (gone = dead, repelled, whathaveyou). That was a very nice relief.

    But we had a new concern. Bats. Now, we have bats at home. They dont bother us, we dont bother them. And in our room at Samadhi bats, in couplets and side by side like ponch and john from chips, would fly in one window and out a small opening of another window. And when I say window you should really be thinking “wall” because nearly the entire space is open. And in this type of room we are prepared and expect to share it with the wild. So, again, those bats are fine. We arent concerned. But what happens next does concern us a bit. A bat flies in solo and not only does he not fly out he hangs around for quite some time flying this way and that in the room with no real direction-almost as if he is struggling to keep himself in the air, if that makes sense. And he was foaming at the mouth. Ok not so not so. We can laugh about it now but his actions were enough to cause us concern and a sleepless night given the what I said sounded like strange and random medical advice we were given before we left which kept running through our minds (“immediately medivac home. immediately medivac home. immediately medivac home."). Plus that awful story the night before about the girl who died on her honeymoon after being bitten by a bat. We figured: rare or not, it happens and we don’t want it to happen to us.

    As early as possible the next morning (literally, sunrise) we approached our hosts. We have “complained” maybe three times ever at a hotel in our lives. And while this wasnt intended to be a “complaint” we felt bad and weird addressing this. We said how beautiful the room was and the river view and the décor and then nervously asked if it would be possible at all to perhaps, maybe, if it wasnt too much trouble, to be moved to a new room…..(holding breath, waiting for them to kick us out for being ungrateful guests). Of course, he says! No problem at all! Leave your luggage in your room before you head out for the day and we will have it moved to room 4 (or 14, I forget). Us to each other on our way back to the room: wow, that went well. Certainly a strange bat was not the fault of Samadhi or within their control such that they should be in anyway obligated to appease us yet they kindly agreed without any hesitation to accommodate our request. All is right with the world and so happy I chose Samadhi!

    We return to our room and get ready for the days activities which included what I was certain was going to be the lamest excursion in all of Sri Lanka….Temple of the Tooth.

  • Report Abuse

    Shanek-Thanks for the link to the clip for Peter Kuruvita's show. My mouth is watering, and I swear I could smell what he was cooking!

    I thought my trip to Sri Lanka was fabulous, but now I feel that I've barely scratched the surface - makes me even more eager for a return visit.

    PLEASE post if you find a way the rest of us can watch the show.

    Naturegirl - I'm just getting caught up on your report. The shower incident with the beatles was hilarious.

    I've also experienced what you describe about the impact that photographs have on others. The pictures of mine that draw positive reactions are not the ones that are near and dear to me, but rather the ones that fit the formula for 'good' pictures. My 'good' pictures hardly ever appeal to me on a sentimental level.

  • Report Abuse

    Hi Naturegirl,

    I am glad that you have more followers now joining in. This is certainly in my TOP 10 alltime favorite trip reports (several of the others in my TOP 10 are actually mine), even though it is still in its infancy.

    I am sure many more are reading and others will join in. Some of the regulars here are absorbed by all the tragic events in Thailand. They seem to be coming to a favorable turning point so I am certain more of them will find this report soon. They can be a tough audience to crack but once they jump on board they can be very encouraging.

    I can't beleive that you didn't change rooms as soon as you saw the bats. They are RATS WITH WINGS. I couldn't share a room with them and I don't consider myself all that fussy. I must give you props for the courteous and diplomatic way you dealt with it. I have seen so many tourists being prissy and rude over ants and bugs. One of my travelling partners on my first trip to Sri Lanka made a huge scene over a Gecko in our room. Needless to say I am no longer with her.

    Femi, If I can get my head around transferring the TV shows from my hard-drive recorder to You-Tube, I will send them all to you. I believe there are 10 episodes but only 2 have gone to air so it may become a weekly ritual. I am off to the Asian grocer to see if I can get some of the exotic ingredients he uses. Maybe they may have some Durian?

  • Report Abuse

    Sorry to interrupt your Kandy saga, but I just realized I didn't hear about the Dambulla Cave temples or Sigirya. DId you opt not to visit those places while you were in the cultural triangle or did I miss your account?

  • Report Abuse

    You are welcome. It was a good read as it brought back great memmories.

    I also had a similar experience at the Spice Garden, Once I resigned myself to paying too much for something I didn't want, I enjoyed the tour. I ended up with a 6 pack of tiger balm at double the going market rate and a package of ground cloves to settle my "Colombo Belly".

  • Report Abuse

    shanek thanks for your encouragement to press on with my trip report even when I wasnt sure anyone was interested!

    "Rats with wings," I like it. I think they have usually kept their distance so werent ever a concern for me. Here though-even the "nice" bats were pretty close given my previous experience. And then when the strange bat was in the room it pushed us over the edge.

    Geckos are so cute! Aw! I think you made the right decision sending her to the curb!

    So funny you went to the spice garden and had the exact experience! I love that you bought stuff b/c you felt the same way! "Tiger balm and ground cloves" cracking up at that. Did you ever use either? Reminds me of a time in Jamaica. A guy comes by and asks us if we want "authentic Jamaican aloe." "Fresh from the plant," he says. Um...not really but ok. I think we agree on $10.00 then he disappears to "make" it. Returns a short time later with a liquor bottle and some gross consistency inside he calls "aloe." And all of a sudden the price is $15.00.

    santamonica welcome back =) Even though Im not writing about Delaware.

    Femi right-its like friends and family gloss over the pictures that hold the most meaning for us. Like, how I oohed and aahed over the elephant footrpint photo that guy took-he mightve been thinking "really? hmm, that one meant nothing to me," heh.

    I guess in the end its most important that we, the taker of the photo, enjoy.

    JaneB "not so bad but not so good." Perfect way to describe!

    Kathie it was easy to miss my actual and factual trip report portion because I have it hidden among my touchy feely experiences along the way.

    michelangelos1210 thanks for joining-I hope it elicits positive and fond memories.


    I hope to post more re Kandy and TOTT tonight (and the new room Femi!)!

  • Report Abuse

    Day 8 continued

    So off to Temple of the Tooth. I cant recall why I thought TOTH would be lame. I likened it a bit to The Basilica of the Holy Blood (Bruges) which I saw years ago and apparently didn’t much enjoy? And I guess the fact that it was a “tooth” made it seem, I don’t know, not very serious? But we cant pick our relics. And I couldn’t have been more wrong about TOTH.

    The details are beginning to fade (better get the rest of this report written) but I believe the temple is only open during certain hours/for a limited amount of time. So if you arrive late or if you are too far back in line I think you miss it. Oscar has us arrive early and we are near the front of the line that forms inside. And when I say line I mean mob. Because people are pushing constantly and for no apparent reason. The doors arent open yet, there is nothing to see yet, and people are pushing. Anyway, we are standing but there is a large group sitting near the perimeter. I ask Oscar about this and he says these are people that have come but cannot wait in line for the tooth because they have young children, they are old, whathaveyou. The group grows bigger as we wait. We are the only white people. Everyone here is Buddhist. Oscar explains that a trip to TOTH is a special one. That some come from all over the country, sometimes only once in a lifetime, to pay homage (which I suppose explains the pushing). Nearly all of them have a gift of some sort to offer the Buddha. Flowers, mainly. But some bring food. Others bring clothing. Oscar explains that these items go to the monks.

    There is history behind the tooth which I will let you discover when you visit.

    A guard of some sort herds us even closer together and I see an elderly gentleman nearly knocked over. It brought tears to my eyes that part of his little flower offering was broken off and crushed on the floor in the act. While hubs and I nonetheless attempt to respect those around us by not jamming up in their business we quickly realize the notion of “personal space” does not exist for anyone else. Not a big deal, just saying be prepared to be packed in. Tight.

    Somethings happening. Men in white shirts who appear to be in positions of authority are walking around. Oscar says the doors are about to open. We funnel from the waiting area into a more narrow area which leads to the tooth (Picture 56). Stay along the perimeter of the wall, Oscar calls to us as he is pushed ahead in a sea of people. Its madness. Really. People are pushing like they are running from a fire, no lie. It reminded me of those videos Id see from Tokyo where people are packed into subway cars.

    There is a large lotus flower display on a table along the way and we see Oscar and others bend down and appear to touch their hands to the flowers then to their face.

    We continue on, staying close to the wall. And this is why Oscar said stay close to the wall-the relic is on that side. It is not single file so some people will not be right next to the tooth-you will have the best view if you follow his advice and stay near the wall. We are approaching an opening that looks like a big window whose shutters have been opened. In the background there is a tiny casket which houses the tooth. You wouldn’t know what you were looking at unless you knew what you were looking at. There is a monk, looking a bit panicked, rapidly collecting the offerings from people as they are pushed through. It reminded me of way back when in the crown of the Statue of Liberty. Has anyone done this? Youd work so hard climbing all those steps then get to the top and you weren’t allowed to spend time there. There were people ahead of you, people behind you, and you were to basically just walk by the little windows and keep things moving. TOTH was just like that. There was no stopping, no meaningful observation of the tooth. More like frantic glances to see as you are pushed through.

    And then it was over.

    One tip: you are able to make a monetary offering here. I wish Id known that in advance as it wouldve been neat to be a part of the offering. There are several locations throughout the temple to leave a monetary offering as well which we did but, again, wouldve been cool to give it to the tooth. We left ours in a little room housing many many palm leaves on which is written the story of Buddha (Picture 57).

    Also very cool is drumming which is happening during all this. Some really really cool drumming. We watched for quite a while (Picture 58).

    The area surrounding the tooth is worth exploring (Pictures 59-61). Probably one of the neatest things was a small glass building housing rows and rows of candles being lit in prayer (Picture 62). Youll also have a chance to see Raja, the elephant who for many years carried the tooth in the Esala Perahera (a grand ten-night parade in Kandy). Here is a site I found on Raja: You will notice he is no longer with us thus the Raja you see at TOTH is, well, stuffed (Picture 63).

    There are also what I will call sub-temples, including some Hindu sites of worship (and I shoulve mentioned this is also so in Polonnaruwa, or “P-city” as we affectionately called it because we seemed to pronounce it a different way each time we said it). Perhaps most interesting were the many chanting prayers we had the opportunity to observe that day. Prayer, for me, has always been a private affair so I felt honored that I was able to share in the prayers of others.

    TOTH turned out to be my favorite activity in all of Sri Lanka. To be part of an experience that is considered to be the holiest in the land was quite special and extremely memorable. What really struck me was that it was like I could *feel* the devotion. I could feel it in the air. It was intense. It was amazing.

  • Report Abuse

    It is very interesting to hear how affected you were by the TOTH. Sometimes, the lower your expectations, the greater your experience can be.

    I found it to be a major disapointment. What I recall is feeling cheated by how fleeting a glance we recived of the relic.

    This is most likely to do with the build up I had. We were in Kandy for the Perahera and saw the procession. Our guide told us,at the time, that ONLY a replica of the relic, a FALSE TOOTH as such, took part in the procession due to security fears. The religious significance of the relic was almost oversold to us and when the time finally came to "view" the relic, I felt nothing.

    I should have concentrated more on the surroundings and all that magnificent drumming that was going on, but I was so focused on the "prize" that I missed out on the journey.

    Not to worry, I will be back.

    On a side note, for the benefit of others following this fabulous tale, if you do plan a trip to Kandy, do try and co-ordinate you trip with the Perahera. It is a fabulous festival. Think Rio Carnivale with Elephants.

  • Report Abuse

    What an informative and humorous report, insects, bats, crying babies and all! Great photos too, with plenty devoted to nature.

    The end of Day 6 is so sweet. If your only regret is missing ele footprints, it was good trip.

    Sri Lanka is really becoming a popular destination for nature and wildlife.

  • Report Abuse

    Hi shanek! "Sometimes, the lower your expectations, the greater your experience can be." True true ("if you dont expect too much from me you might not be let down").

    Yes-I read the tooth in the parade is not "thee" tooth!

    Hi atravelynn! Thank you so much for reading along! Re the ele footprints: in my office at work I have some "favorite" travel photos framed on the wall. Just four or five top moments. Looking at them the other day I again felt such disappointment for not seeing those tracks. They wouldve been perfect!

  • Report Abuse

    Day 8 continued…

    After TOTH we spent some time in the city of Kandy (Pictures 64-66). We arent souvenir people but mainly wanted to get something for our niece and nephew who are 11 and had been quite curious about our travel to Sri Lanka.

    Id been thinking maybe a necklace or bracelet for my niece so we stopped in a few jewelry shops. One looked a bit too formal but the owner/manager/whathaveyou shuttled us in to watch a film on gem mining in Sri Lanka. I told him I was shopping for a ten year old and that these “gems” seemed a bit formal for her but he said watch the film, there is no obligation to buy. So we were ushered into a little room with about 20 chairs and a large screen. The lights dimmed and the film began. Almost immediately hubby fell asleep. I have to admit my head fell a few times but I was really fighting it. It wasn’t that the show was boring it was because really we were just exhausted. My head falls again and I wish I am in the back of Oscar’s van. While heading home to our lodging after our daily excursions in Sri Lanka, try as we might to avoid it, wed fall asleep in the back of Oscar’s van. Heads bent back and rolling uncontrollably against the headrest, mouths agape, enter sandman. Mustve been a sight to see in Oscar’s rearview. Im guessing with the adventure of the day coupled with the gentle cushy rocking of our chariot as it guided us home this was unavoidable.

    But Im not in the van. Im in a basement watching a movie about gems I know I am not going to buy. I try to pay attention. There are a handful of gems they focus on and one gets my attention (Tourmaline) because of how it appears to change color. The film ends and we are escorted to the showroom where we are presented with a large black piece of felt showcasing the gems we just learned about. What did you think? the Boss with the mustache asks (all the Bosses and politicians in SL seem to have mustaches). Oh very interesting I say. And mention the attributes of Tourmaline as if to prove Id been paying attention. Ahh yes Tourmaline-see here how it changes color? he asks as he pivots it with his pointing tool. Ooooh yes lovely I say as I see no color change. Now over to the glass displays. I am first shown a bracelet priced at $900.00. I remind them I am shopping for a ten year old. She just turned eleven really but somehow at the time in the uncomfortable situation of feeling pressure to buy something I knew I didn’t want I felt that saying she was ten was like saying she was five and better drove my point that she was a child. A child that a. might not even want or like this gift and b. even if she did it would, due to the nature of being a kid, likely be lost or broken shortly after receipt.

    The Boss with the mustache says something to the female worker and gives an arching wave of his hand that one might give when turning down a beverage because you know you are about to leave and don’t want to put your host out: “Oh no that’s ok” (gives wave of hand). Except his wave didn’t say that. His was defeated and seemed to say “Ok, they arent falling for it, show them the cheap stuff” because I am then escorted to a different glass case with charms. Frustrated and mad mad mad at myself that I am such a wuss I look at the options and decide if I have to buy something to get out of this mess what will it be. I see a cutesy little elephant charm with a teeny pink gem eye. Oh what about this one I ask. $275.00. I say I am looking for something in the $25.00 price range, do you have anything like that? No. No? Ok, well thanks anyway.

    We exit and I see a (local) lady carrying a small purse with an elephant embroidered on it. Cute. I think niece would like. And with that the purse becomes item #1 on list of souvenir ideas for niece right next to coconut carved like a monkey for nephew. We come upon government-run Laksala (Hubs had read about this). No purses and only one animal-carved coconut but his one eye is pointed wrong so we move on. We come upon another store (not Laksala). Not only do they have tons of elephant purses and carved coconuts but a bunch of other stuff that kids would love. Eventually, after way too much thought than required, I decide to get them both coconut animals. What did it was this elephant coconut with little tusks. Very cute. The elephant was def more serious than the silly monkey so elephant for her, monkey for him. Oh, and earrings for me! Id forgotten to wear/pack earrings for the trip and had been on the lookout. Hubs saw these really cute lobe-hugging thick silver hoops that were perfect!

    I should say items in the stores we saw weren’t really my speed. Like, Id been looking for “something nice” maybe for my parents. I didn’t have anything in mind. Just wanted “something Sri Lanka.” And it of course is simply a matter of taste/personal pref but I didn’t really find anything like that.

    After some shopping, some soya ice cream (not very flavorful), and a chance to try mangosteen (Picture 67) and jackfruit (Picture 68) we headed to the Peradeniya Botanic Gardens. Not Botanical Gardens. Botanic Gardens (for santamonica: not lewis, lose). We spent quite a bit of time here as Oscar impressed us with his knowledge about the gorgeous flora (Picture 69). And normally, normally, this would totally be our thing. Its just that it was so so so so hot. We went through the motions but most of the area is not shaded and the heat was almost unbearable.

    There are some really awesome sights to see though and I would def recommend checking this place. I was thinking it would be nice to bring a picnic and sit under one of the huge trees! And people did just that, very nice (Picture 70). A few things: no white people here. And I know that doesn’t necessarily mean that everybody else is “local” but it does mean that its not a huge tourist destination. At least it wasn’t on the day we were there (more on white people = tourist later). So we really liked this because true or not it makes one feel they are immersing themselves in the real culture when they are hanging where the locals hang.

    Some other things: giant bamboo stalks (Picture 71)! Huge regal gorgeous trees. Oh and bats. Would you believe we got guano-ed? Lucky I had on my enormous moviestar glasses (which some SL teengirls loved and others straight up laughed at) which took the brunt of the poo. I wondered whether bat poo held the same “luck” that bird poo held. Not sure where I heard it but somehow committed to memory was this notion that it was good luck when a bird pooped on you (just googled it and given the first result it must be true). Oscar got a huge kick out of the whole thing. Maybe b/c the Gardens are enormous and only a few trees had bats we managed to be standing in the wrong place at the wrong time. Or maybe b/c he was tired of us sleeping in the van and this was payback.

    Another thing: there are trees given/planted by leaders from other countries and I found this really interesting. Youd walk up to a tree and read the plaque to learn X from country Y presented this Z tree to Sri Lanka in 1921.

    Last thing: if nature is your bag you could seriously spend all day here. It is just that gorgeous. And we couldve if 1. it hadn’t been so hot (it was so hot we almost didn’t care about the gardens anymore) and 2. we didn’t have tickets that evening to the worst experience in Sri Lanka.

  • Report Abuse

    LOL! The sight of guano + movie star sunglasses would have stopped me in my tracks!

    It was really hard for me to find any souvenirs at all in Sri Lanka. I ended up shopping in the airport on the way home. I think higher quality shops must be located in Colombo.

    I felt your pain at the gemstore. So glad now that I never gave in to the temptation to stop.

  • Report Abuse

    "Tickets to the worst experience in Sri Lanka"......What a teaser!!!

    I'm tipping that you are taking about the "Kandy Cultural Show"

    We have had a pincic lunch at the Botanic Gardens. It is a special place. Fabulous Orchid Pavillion, Lovely Lake, Hair-Raising Suspension Bridge etc etc. I can't remember how hot that particular day was but I can recall that we were there for most of it.

  • Report Abuse

    Heheh yeah Femi it was pretty funny!! Thankfully there was a water fountain nearby to clean things up!

    Shanek hi! I remember the Orchids and the lake but the suspension bridge? Hair-raising at that! Did I miss this?! Or has the memory faded already? Or maybe the heat of that day fried my brain!?

  • Report Abuse

    Day 8 continued…

    Status so far: emotional from experience at TOTH and completely exhausted from outdoor activities on what I will go on record as saying was the hottest day ever in the history Sri Lanka. As we shuttle to our next and final event of the day, naturally, we fall asleep in the back of Oscar’s van. When we arrive Oscar sees to our tickets, makes sure we are settled…and leaves. Now, never before has Oscar *not* accompanied us. Sigiriya, various temples, elephant safari, etc. So this is unusual (though in retrospect maybe he was escaping while he had the chance given what he knew was about to go down).

    We wait for “the show” to begin in what I will call an auditorium because there is a stage and there are seats. The seats though are folding chairs and it all reminds me of a church basement. There is “a concession stand” off to the side and I put this in quotes b/c it is a guy sitting at a folding table selling pepsi cans, pringles, and snickers from large cardboard boxes. Except the maximum amount they are allowed to charge by law has been covered and they are charging like way more. So I guess in that sense it really is a concession stand (overpriced).

    And there are men walking through the crowd selling jewelry and other stuff. And the crowd is what Id like to discuss next. Ok, first-nearly all white. And keep in mind until now wed seen nearly none on our excursions. Next-rude rude rude rude rude rude rude rude rude. I don’t think Ive ever been around so many inconsiderate, impolite tourists in my life! Ugh! We laughed as we discussed how Americans have a bad rap and we were by far the best behaved there (these were all Europeans). We were both quite thankful our time around this crowd was finite. And yes I realize this doesn’t mean all Europeans are ignorant travelers, as these were, any more than it means all Americans are considerate travelers, as we are. Just saying this was the state of the surrounding crowd that particular day. So we get our pepsi and pringles and wait. The curtains open and the show begins: The Kandyan Dancers.

    Now I should say this “dancer” thing is even less our bag than I thought TOTH would be. But Id been so wrong about TOTH I tried to keep an open mind.

    Hubby is immediately asleep and I envy this “gift” to drift off whenev, wherev as I sit through dance after dance, actually taking pictures (out of obligation perhaps? respect?), wondering who would knowingly attend this event. I paid attention to each dance hoping that some how some way things would get better. I despised my time there so much I hate to even write about it but just as speakers tour the talkshow circuit to help save others from suffering some awful fate that had befallen them I too will tell my story.

    There are maybe 10 dances. Each one has a different meaning and different costumes and I guess different moves though it was kind of hard to tell because it was all so awful. Were the costumes neat to look at? I suppose. Were the drummers ok to listen to? I suppose (though couldn’t hold a candle to the fresh beats we heard earlier at TOTH). But the dancing…(slowly shaking head)…was so so bad. Nobody was in synch and I mean nobody. And they were doing the same moves so they shouldve been in sync-this wasn’t like improve where peeps were individually showcased. It was painful to watch and reminded me of a grade school performance. And in fairness I should say that even if the dancing and drumming had been outstanding it still wouldn’t have really been our thing. But because it sucked so bad it just made it that much worse.

    Ok, so the ten dances or whatever end and this crowd of Asians (where did they come from) no lie totally and completely bumrush the stage with such speed and panic that seriously at first we thought there was a fire or an emergency that they were fleeing. Alas, they were trying to get good seats for the final act: fire eaters/walkers. This takes place not on the stage but in front of the stage so apparently their tour director had tipped them off-which makes me laugh as I wonder how those instructions were explained (“hey, listen this is very very important: during the final act gather your belongings and stand from your seats, near the end before the performers are actually off the stage what youre gonna need to do is run like you’ve never run before-run straight for the stage-and sit on the steps in front or you wont see anything, youll miss the highlight of the entire show, of your entire journey in Sri Lanka”). Anyway, they sat on the stage steps and the rest of looked around having no idea what was going on. There were no instructions. People grew uncomfortable. Some climbed on top of the stage while others straight up left. Despite us being only a few rows back we relied on the logic “if youre the only that’s right youre probably wrong” and joined the crowd on the stage. Things were slow going and already tired and annoyed we debated rolling out before this fire stuff even began. The mind is a fascinating thing. What made us stay? Again, obligation? Respect?

    After this final act we were free. We left the building and Oscar was waiting there for us. He asked us what we thought and my response included something like “the drummers were ok.” See what happens as details fade? I cant recall the conversation exactly. We enter the van and its dreamtime.

    When we arrive back at Samadhi the owner welcomes us-not the manager we were expecting. He immediately escorts us to the dining room (gorgeously lit with candles as before).

    Two things notably different from dinner the night before: One, the food was amazing (Picture 72). Very very good (you may recall the previous night wasn’t bad but was just “nothing special”). Plus I got to try my first taste of Arrack! Two, we had some special guests-Anita (Picture 73) and Braum (Picture 74), two of the four dogs at Samadhi! Anita was a good sweet girl and she laid on my right through dinner. Braum is a loverboy and he laid immediately on my left. I pet them and asked if I could give them a little bite of dinner (yes)! I am a dog lover and missed my own pet back home so this was really so nice to be able to chill with these two!

    The owner checks in with us and we chat together a bit. He says he has moved us to a new room: Oh thank you-room 4 (or 14)? I ask. No no he says, smiling, the honeymoon suite. Oh I am delighted! I tell him we are in Sri Lanka celebrating our 10 year anniversary so this is really a treat. I am not sure I was able to thoroughly communicate this though. No matter. We were thankful and I am certain we were able to convey that. Best room in the house, he says, as he and Braum lead us to our new abode.

    And that it was (Picture 75-79). Again, not for everyone but if your taste is classic meets rustic youll love this as I did. And seriously if we ever return I wouldn’t stay in any other room (not b/c the others wouldn’t be nice but b/c this one ruled). The only problem was we were so so tired from the day we didn’t get a lot of time to enjoy it-though I certainly took a bath in that super badass tub! We settled into the comfy bed for what became our most peaceful night’s sleep in Sri Lanka.

  • Report Abuse

    Thank you for such a great trip report! I can't wait to hear about the rest of your travels.

    I just decided tonight that it was time to start thinking about our next travel destination, looked at a map, noticed Sri Lanka, and then found your report. Now I must say I am sold!

    I was wondering what your thoughts were on having a guide and working with the travel agency. Do you feel it was essential to the trip or could it easily be done independently with adequate planning time?

  • Report Abuse

    Hi rlk679! I am so so glad you are enjoying my posts!

    And so so excited you are considering Sri Lanka! I cant imagine any travel to SL would disappoint as it seems to have it all: nature, cities, beaches, mountains, lakes, and an excellent mix of culture!

    I will say with confidence you could totally travel SL independently, with adequate planning time as you said.

    The travel agency set us up with a good itinerary but once you research you can create your own. Or even look at the agency websites b/c they list suggested itins. And SL is packed with cool stuff, of course, but it isnt that big (I remember a guide book saying roughly the size of West Virginia, which is helpful or not depending on where you live) and you wont be too overwhelmed with options. So you could def skip the agency.

    Re the guide:

    Rail and public trans (if that interests you) can get you to a lot of places. Some, that are more off the beaten path, might require some more creativity (train to here, then transfer to bus, then get a tuk tuk down the bumpy hilly road to the hotel). One thing the agency told (not sure if I mentioned it here or on my planning thread or at all) was that public trans can be unreliable-like moreso than SEPTA, etc. So if you have a set itin with limited days (as we did) this may not be the way to go. You could always throw in something here and there but to rely on it as your sole means of transport might take more time. Which personally I think is all part of the adventure but until the US starts being more generous with vaca time that sadly wasnt an option for us.

    You could also do a mix of self tour and guide tour. And this would all be based on personal pref of course. But like you could self tour Colombo area, use guides in the cultural triangle, rail it to tea country and self-tour there.

    Also we saw that hotels will arange a day guide for you. Cant speak to the price or quality but that seemed convenient as well.

    Im certain it can be done and that people do it all the time but self-driving could be a bit harder given the "rules" of driving there are a bit different. And this may add a bit of stress/worry to travel time...versus hanging out in the back of Oscar's van without a care snapping blurry pictures as the world goes by. One thing though that I noted while enroute was that if were driving solo I wouldve stopped often to take pictures of interesting things along the way. For instance, so random I know, I saw a really pretty gate to a pathway leading to a home. Simple, rustic-really struck me. By the time I saw it and opened my mouth to maybe slow down or pop out to take a picture we were far beyond. Now, if I asked Oscar to turn around he totally would have but I wouldve been doing that the whole trip and wouldve felt bad (why, youre paying for it, some might say and my response is, i dont know why i just would). And "turning around" on the roads we were travelling involved more than a simple k turn. But it was something I felt was "lost" by having someone else drive.

    That said you could also secure a "driver" rather than a full on guide. So he could cart you wherevs and then you can either see the sites on your own or pay one of the "locals" hanging out which I determined isnt for me but some people like it. The prices for these drivers is quite affordable so this could be a good option as well.

    Many people in SL speak English so I dont know that a guide is necessary in that regard but it did come in handy for us as even when we did try to speak the native languages it was not pretty, heh. Plus it was very helpful in my case that Oscar helped decipher ingredients (no animal stock, right? this pastry has no milk, eggs, or butter?) which I imagine isnt a concern for most. I always say if I were a meat eater Id try ANYTHING! Whats the difference if you eat a pork chop or a pig face? But I digress.

    BUT, and I was going to save this as one of my points at the close of my report but Ill share it now:

    Travelling with a guide (this was our first time doing so) made this such a relaxing trip for us I cant even tell you. I remember feeling while we were over there that I felt like a kid travelling with my parents b/c you have no responsibilities, no obligations-your guide handles everything-EVERYTHING.

    The benefit is you get all the good points of travel without the bad. And I should say that I recognize that sometimes what seems like "bad" ends up creating some interesting memories (like the time we drove round and round and round and round "the ring" in Brussels? And yelled and fought the whole time b/c nobody could read the map? Well that seemed bad at the time, and really it was, hahah, but we can laugh about it now and its a story we tell all the time).

    But I just wanted to be sure to point out, in the event it plays a role in your decision, how this trip, with a guide, for us, was zero stress, zero worry.

    Except for the giant beetles. And the bats.


    Sorry so long-hope this gives you some good ideas!

    Please let me know if you have any other questions at all!

  • Report Abuse

    Nature Girl we are loving your report. We are going to Sri Lanka in Feb 2012 and we are getting a lot out of your report.
    Like Shanek we are in Australia and so able to watch the Sri Lankan cooking show.
    We can relate to the Kandy Cultural show as we had a simialar experience in Hue, this one was on a boat and so we were unable to escape. It was even worse than a school concert.

  • Report Abuse

    hi gmoz i am really glad you are following along and gaining useful information!

    have you planned your itinerary? how long will you stay? just last night at dinner hubs got a cambodian curry. i took a bit of the eggplant and, while it wasnt exactly the same taste, it was close enough that the flavors took me right back to sri lanka. so we talked about possibly going back to see the things we had missed-horton plains, maybe esala perahera, some of the other parks. but.....theres so much more of the world to see i might have to live vicariously through you in february 2012!

    ha, yeah i think you win: being stuck on a boat doesnt leave many escape options! did anybody jump and make a swim for it?

  • Report Abuse

    Lets see where were we…Day 9?

    So today we had to get up super early-like 5 something. We get our bags ready for the helpers, open the door, and who do you think is laying on the patio waiting to greet us? Well itd be weird if it were anyone else-it was Braum! How cute! He wagged his tail and came over for some pets then escorted us down to the dining room. After we quickly inhale some breakfast one of our hosts packs us in a jeep and we make our way down the bumpy road to meet Oscar. We are headed to tea country!

    Our first destination is “the city of light” (?) Nuwara Eliya which is pronounced almost nothing like it looks: New Railya. But you say it all at once like Newrailya. The drive was gorgeous. Sri Lanka reminds me of California: it has so many different landscapes its like you can be in a different world in a matter of a few hours! The roads are narrow and you are close to the scenery.

    Along the way we stopped at a Tea Factory-Labookellie (Picture 80). Id looked this up beforehand and it seemed to be one of the best tea factories to visit. After wed returned my mom saw a special on Sri Lanka and they also talked about this being the best tea factory to visit. We took a tour of the factory itself, guided by a Labookellie employee, which was informative but also brief enough that it remained interesting (all the teas come from the same tea leaf-the difference is how the leaf is processed). There is a backstory for how Sri Lanka got into tea but Ill leave that and a lot of other history up to the locals to explain when you visit b/c that is part of the fun. Plus I just cant remember.

    So after the tour we took some pictures of the giant hillside and tea plantations (Pictures 81, 82) before we sat on white metal furniture for some tea and chocolate cake (Picture 83). I didn’t eat the cake but hubs said it was fine. The tea was fine, nothing mind blowing but Im not a tea expert (just like Cristal tasted like any other champagne ive ever had-no, this was not in sri lanka). After the tea factory we saw some pickers checking in their leaves (Picture 84). We drove around a bit and saw something that looked like a lake and Oscar asked if we wanted to stop and we discussed and said sure but for some reason we never did. No matter.

    We arrived a bit early to the Nanu Oya station for our train ride to Ella, which Id been looking fwd to for a very long time. The train station is more modern than I expected but this is coming from someone who initially wasn’t sure they had internet in Sri Lanka (Pictures 85, 86). Oscar waits until he has word the train is on its way then departs to drive so he can meet us in Ella-leaving us with a note that has our train stop in both English and Sinhalese which I thought was neat. As I read this to my husband he exclaimed “it was more MODERN than you had thought?” he said “it was more dilapidated than I thought. It looked like they hadn’t done anything to it in the last 30 years. There was grass and weeds growing up between the tracks.” Well, yes there were grass and weeds growing up between the tracks but I suppose I more meant they had buildings (Picture 87). Like, when we flew into the Dominican Republic the airport was a thatch hut. So I guess I am sort of comparing it to that =)

    There is a big room you can enter that has food to buy at the back. It was hot and there were many flies. I did not like this and did not partake. I thought I might try to pee before the train ride but be warned be warned be warned (and this is from a non-exaggerater): the bathroom was, and Im going to choose my words carefully here, the most disgusting thing ever. And I came to that conclusion without even going fully in. I walked into what was a door leading to the door to the girls bathroom-so keep in mind I am not even *in* the toilet area yet-I dry heaved, and immediately aborted. It smelled so gross that Im making my stomach sick right now thinking about it. This is what Id expected the durian to smell like. Id take durian smell times a thousand-no, times infinity-over what I smelled at the train station that day. Had to hold it.

    More people have gathered and it seems everyone is going our way (Picture 88). And, aside from the “dance show” the night before, it’s the most white people wed seen. They are mostly gathered at one point on the platform so we went further down to be away from the crowd. The train pulls up and a few people get off further up in the train but otherwise nothing is really happening. So an older guy who really if Im honest had been a bit loud and disruptive as we waited quickly ran and got on the train. I looked at the car and nobody seemed to be moving so I too went up the steps-not really confident it was the right thing to do. Then a really tall guy tries to get off and I immediately regret my decision to follow the old man. I suppose as foreigners not familiar with the stops nobody was really sure this was where they were supposed to get off so there was some delay on their part, which is why it looked like inaction from our perspective. I am able to squeeze into the vestibule with the conductor but the old guy is in the way and really not even trying to accommodate and move. So the tall guy is annoyed he cant get by, sort of understandably but like chill, youre gonna get off eventually. He starts speaking loudly to the conductor to have the old loud and annoying man removed so the passengers can disembark. It reminded me of the Zax by Dr Seuss-but this type of combative interaction is exactly what we saw over and over at the dance show the night before. Anyway, those who want to get off manage to get off and we all manage to board.

    Now, we have tickets for the observation car. Id done research on this and had talked to Tikalanka beforehand. Oscar had purchased our tickets days in advance as sometimes they sell out. Being a weekday off season that turned out not to the be the case but Im getting ahead of myself. Hubs and I boarded and though every seat is sort of next to a window we had a large partition right in our view (note, you can actually choose your seat if you buy in advance so research which youd like). We didn’t want to take anybody else’s seat that had paid for a ticket so we were going to wait until people were seated then see if we could switch seats. Well, that didn’t work b/c everyone else, who hadn’t purchased a ticket beforehand, got on the car anyway (and when I say “got onto the car” I mean pushed TOTH style to get a seat, though there were plenty) and choose a seat and then paid the difference as the conductor went around. Well that sucked. I felt we had done our due diligence to research and purchase beforehand yet still kind of got the short end of the stick. So learn from my lesson: push and shove and yell to get the seat you want if the view is important to you.

    About the view: Remember that old annoying guy? He was like, “Oh theres nothing to see the first hour. Then the second hour all the good stuff is on this side.” Not sure who he was talking to but I wasn’t surprised to find out for myself that he was wrong. People like that usually are. And while it is correct that for about the first half of the ride the scenery is on one side (the left, keeping in mind you ride backwards on this car) and the second half of the ride the scenery is on the other (the right), there isn’t much time where there is “nothing to see.”

    That said, I didn’t really “see” anything I hadn’t seen from Oscars van. We were close up with locals working on their land, we saw deep valleys and amazing vistas. The sites from the train were no better. And while I wouldve regretted *not* taking the train ride b/c I never wouldve been sure whether Id missed out on something great I prob wouldn’t do it again. There was just no benefit to it. As I said: same scenery but now you have to view it with a bunch of (mostly combative) tourists. And the “experience” of taking the train wasn’t really an “experience” b/c you weren’t really travelling with locals. At least not on this car you weren’t. Based on my experience that day Id say skip it (Pictures 89-93).

  • Report Abuse

    Day 9 continued…

    We got off at Ella (Picture 94). And not much later than expected as the train did break down but for less than 30 minutes. Oscar was there to meet us. He had mentioned there wasn’t much of a “town” to explore and he was right. There were like no lie ten buildings. So, off to Haputale for Kelbourne Mountain View Cottages (Picture 95):

    We arrived after noon and it was raining as we were warmly greeted by a small group of individuals which I found out later included the gentleman assigned to host us (our age) and the chef (a bit older). Tikalanka had initially booked us the Rose Cottage for our itinerary but research revealed it lacked the views of Aerie and Wildflower so we had requested either of the other two and he had been able to secure the Aerie cottage for us. Now the following is not a matter of opinion it is a matter of fact: Aerie offers the best views. Why? Well Rose isn’t even in the running as it is set back. Wildflower is in the middle and while it’s a close second and its views wont disappoint, they are a bit truncated on the left. Aerie is off to the side and offers sweeping views of the entire countryside (Picture 96).

    Aerie interior was as pictured on the website-it’s a bit outdated but it was a nice change to have, like, walls and enclosed bathroom. The front of the house has a living room, a sitting room (my fav), a bedroom with 2 twin beds, and a bathroom with a tub. A formal dining separates this area from the back of the house which has a family room and what I will call the master bedroom with two twin beds and bathroom with a shower. There are various doors which are closed off from guest use but more on that later. The family room has large windows overlooking the valley and the master bedroom also has windows and a door leading out to the private veranda. When we arrived it was afternoon and clouds had rolled in so we weren’t able to see anything at all! Our host said something along the lines of “In about 2 hours the rain will stop and the clouds will disappear” and he was right on-it was gorgeous! Not just gorgeous, unreal. Peaceful. So so pretty. And so so different from Sri Lanka we had seen thus far. Our time in tea country was mostly “leisure” which was actually a nice way to wrap up our trip.

    The living room had lots and lots of books, old magazines (tons of National Geographic!), and games so that first afternoon we played a game and napped and of course spent time admiring the view. Dinner was served in the dining room by our host. Remember those various doors I was talking about? Well one of those is in the dining room and remained opened during the day. This apparently leads to the kitchen. I thought I would pass this on to future guests b/c the door had been closed, I took a bath and walked b ack through the dining room and the door was open and there was clanging of pots and pans and shadows of people and whathaveyou. I mean, personally I wouldn’t have cared that they might’ve seen me in my towel but for those less modest just keep this in mind. There was another “secret door” in the master bathroom which to my knowledge remained closed the entire time.

    Ok back to dinner. Our host turned all the lighting on for us in the dining room (I later turned a few off to add to the ambiance) and arranged our placesettings next to each other on the large table. He also laid fresh flowers from the terrace on the table which was a thoughtful touch. “Sir Madam,” which is how he would address us, as if calling us both by that name, as he would place the rice and various curries on the table.

    We were in agreement that the food was a bit on the bland side. It was without a doubt the least exciting of all our lodgings. But, and this is big, they had the most amazing basmati rice ive ever had. It was so perfectly cooked and so fluffy. Oh, and had a touch of lemongrass (which I have failed to replicate since Ive been home). So really, huge thumbs up on the rice. And there was the aubergine curry which was good so I should def give a shout out for that but otherwise, again, a bit on the bland side. Now, the chef did come out (was the first time we saw the Sri Lankan head roll) and ask how dinner was. In retrospect Im sure it wouldve been fine to say something like “don’t be afraid to use some spice, we like it,” or something similar, but we didn’t. He did ask if wed like a curry breakfast or an American breakfast so we opted for American.

    We were offered tea but passed and spent the balance of the evening reading in the family room about Lipton’s Seat-which we were slated to experience the next morning.

  • Report Abuse

    The "Tea-Country" is indeed a special place. I am glad you enjoyed your time there. It was where I spent the first 2 years of my life and after going back there, about 15 years ago, I wish I had grown up there rather than the eastern suburbs of Melbourne.

    You have inspired me to plan another trip to Sri-Lanka, this time, with the kids. I think that the Kelbourne Cottages sound like a perfect place to base ourselves for a few days.

    Did it really take you 9 days to see your first "head-roll"? My Dad have lived in Australia for 43 years but it is so ingrained into his psyche that I still see him do it now!

  • Report Abuse

    Hi shanek!

    Id seen the head roll on Globe Trekker but yes it took NINE DAYS to see it in person, haha.

    I am so excited for you to have the chance to head back to SL! And the cottages wont disappoint. Much more laid back and a good way to wind down.

  • Report Abuse

    A coworker let me know she just heard a program on NPR re Sri Lanka cuisine.

    I know shanek you might be interested! Its not your chef though =)

    I had seen something a month or so ago with Gordon Ramsey believe it or not-he went to SL and met up with someone who had compiled a cookbook based on recipes he and his family grew up with.

    I think the NPR story might be the same guy. Anyway, here is a link for anyone that is interested!

  • Report Abuse

    Day 10

    It’s a good idea to keep your curtains closed at night if you are staying in the back bedroom and have things youd prefer to keep private as your host will thoughtfully arrange breakfast on your veranda mere feet from your quarters (Picture 97). We settled onto the sunny terrace as our American breakfast was served which for hubs consisted of I think eggs and bacon and maybe even sausage and for me consisted of toasts and juice, which was actually just fine as I hadn’t had “bread” in days.

    We found out our host was accompanying Oscar and us to Lipton’s Seat. At first we figured he just wanted to tag along but later they explained that b/c this is a Tamil area and Oscar spoke Sinhalese it was beneficial to have our Tamil host with us. Apparently this isn’t necessarily for “safety” so much as it is a courtesy….Anyhow, our host this day had on casual clothes (good style) and white horizontal markings on his forehead (Hindu). Oscar also had casual clothes on (this had been a day at leisure but if we requested Oscar’s assistance we were allotted a certain amount of mileage-Lipton’s Seat was well within our range).

    A journey to Lipton’s Seat requires an early departure to ensure your views are not interrupted by the morning clouds. Driving up the mountains of tea country was really very lovely (Pictures 98-101) but cars can only go so far. There comes a point you have to abandon the car and walk. Oscar stayed back with the van while our host guided us first up steep steps, then more steps, then more steps. We get to the top and its very pretty and I think, that wasn’t too bad. Host takes our picture and we are talking and laughing and he says ready to continue? Continue? Oh yes, this isn’t the Seat…. …Oh. Onward and upward (Picture 102). I am slow. I had originally had my flips on which frankly wouldve been fine but our host had urged me to wear my tennies which you will recall from the trillion other steps I had climbed thus far are extremely heavy. It was labor-intensive but I suppose a labor of love as once we finally did reach the top (Picture 103) it was gorgeous . There is a general look out which is quite nice (Picture 104) but to get even higher you can pay the guy who runs the snack shop 50 rupees a piece and climb a ladder to a wooden fort-like structure: the Seat. Funny, this fort would never pass muster in the US, we laughed. Not that it was blatantly unsafe but if in the US it prob wouldve been enclosed in glass. It is quiet and peaceful and we are just in time to enjoy the views which, according to our host who has seen both views uncountable times, are superior to World’s End/Horton Plains (Pictures 105-108). Before long the clouds joined us (109).

    There was a guestbook we were later presented and reading through apparently those before us had been offered tea while on the Seat. We wondered where our tea was. Much later we were offered but declined.

    Unlike Sigiriya we felt we had a bit more time to chill here atop the fort. The guy we paid came up and talked with our host while we enjoyed the views and watched the clouds roll in. When we got down the guy let us pet his little baby kitten and his dog (Picture 110) which was nice as, again, I really missed our pet at home.

    Going down as always was much easier and we returned to Oscar’s van in no time. After passing some gentleman sorting the tea leaves (Picture 111) we enjoyed the scenery (Picture 112) and spent the return trip saying stupid things in Tamil and/or Sinhalese to see if our hosts could translate into English. It was a good time for all.

    Our Kelbourne host was really pushing hard to get us to tour another local tea factory. But Oscar confirmed what we figured: once you’ve seen one…. And really we just weren’t interested. There had been a monastery we had wanted to visit (Adisham) but it was closed that day-just something for future travelers to keep in mind.

    We had earlier turned down an offer for the chef to make us lunch b/c we figured wed get something out after the Seat. Oscar dropped off our host and took us to the “village.” I put this in quotes b/c there is not a lot around this area for lunch or even snacks. Oscar stayed with the van as he pointed to a little alcove of a store where he suggested we try to find our snacks. First on the list: grapes. Had a craving. After a few charades we got grapes no problem. They were in a single bunch in the back of the store in what was apparently not only the sole refrigerator (Coke) but the only use of electricity for the operation. Hubs got cookies and an orange “soda.” And this is in quotes b/c it wasn’t soda really. He describes it as half orangina and half orange drink.

    Next craving: pringles (which by the way I never eat at home but ate constantly on this trip). Or even the Sri Lankan generics: Mr Tapioca or Mr Crisp. I used my guidebook to look up the word for potato maybe (I forget how I tried to explain this). I was saying the word in Tamil but I guess my pronunciation was completely off b/c they had no idea what I was saying. Then, genius that I am, point to the word I am reading thinking if they see it in Tamil they will know what I am saying. So I keep pointing to this page and they all look at the page, look at me, and shake their head in that “I don’t know what you mean” way. So we skip the pringles and head back to the cottage which is when I realize what an idiot I am. Id been pointing the English pronunciation of the Tamil word. Duh. Of course they arent going to know that! I laughed at my stupidity and decided as my punishment I didn’t deserve those pringles anyway.

    Upon return we noticed our host had thoughtfully pushed the two twin beds together and prepared them with sheets and blankets as if they were a double bed. We also noticed, and now is a good time to discuss the topic anyway, he folded up our clothing we had handwashed and laid in the sun to dry, undies and everything. We had handwashed all our clothing along the way. The water is…different than at home. The water…smells different than at home. So be prepared your clothes will also smell different after you’ve washed them in this water. Anyhow, clouds rolled in (Pictures 113, 114) and the afternoon was spent chilling and napping. Very relaxing.

    Dinnertime was upon us and as I arrived in the dining room I shivered and wrapped myself in my arms. “Madam you are cold, would you like me to light a fire?” Ooooooooh yes! Yes yes yes indeed how nice (Picture 115)! Then I realized our host had set our lighting to the way I had set it the night before. How observant. Really. I loved it. Dinner was the same-basmati rice (yay!) and some ok curry (boo!). This evening we did take tea and asked that it be served by the fireplace and it was here we spent the night along with some trips to the terrace to look at the stars above and the few glimmers of light from those living in the valley below (Picture 116).

  • Report Abuse

    Day 11

    I felt like today our trip was really wrapping up and our departure from this amazing country was inevitable. Again, our host prepared breakfast on our terrace, this time adding a shade umbrella to the mix (observant, see!?). Afterwards he walks us out (Picture 117) and we say our goodbyes. Upon departure we take our final observations of tea pickers. We notice two ladies are close enough to the roadway that, hey, we think we can make it down! I ask Oscar if we can go: Sure! He says! I motion to the ladies in a gesture “Can I come down?” Yes! They nod and smile. Now, you might not be able to tell from the pictures but these hills are very steep. I had flips on and my feet were pushing so hard against that middle piece I thought it might break! I took the shoes off and continued weaving my way through the bushes. We smiled. I do not speak Tamil. They do not speak English. But through smiles and motions we are able to agree I can pick a tea leaf as they’ve demonstrated and place it in one of their bags! This may seem pretty mundane but I thought it was awesome! Someone, somewhere, is enjoying a warm mug of tea containing a leaf I picked! I motion “can I please take your picture?” they smile and nod (Pictures 118, 119). We had read before it is customary to offer a monetary thank you when one has allowed you to take their picture so we made this offering, which the ladies accepted. One of them also offered me a leaf she had picked to take with me. I will frame this. This is my souvenir from Sri Lanka (Picture 120)!

    Afterwards, once wed checked for leaches, we settled into Oscars van for our long trip back to Colombo. The trip itself was uneventful-pretty scenery and interesting to watch people of Sri Lanka go about their daily activities. And of course, the obligatory cows in the roadway (Picture 121). We stopped for lunch at “Traveller’s Paradise” which offered some tasty short eats (Pictures 122, 123). Oscar never failed to point out various flora and fauna (e.g., rubber trees (Picture 124) had never seen one in person) which kept things interesting. We shared our Cliff bars with him which he never ate but instead saved as a treat to give his son afterwards (we later gave him one each of all the flavors we had).

    Our final night in Sri Lanka was spent at the Tamarind Tree:

    It looked perfect as we drove down the street lined with large regal trees. Our bungalow was clean, spacious, and contemporary (Pictures 125-128). Two things that I in particular liked: horses. This seemed quite random but for whatever reason there were two ponies/small horses tethered a few bungalows over. We approached and they showed interest (Pictures 129, 130), we gave some fruit, and laughed as they wrapped their giant fleshy lips around the fruit (Picture 131).

    Later, we sat on our private porch just relaxing as dusk set in (Picture 132). We took a walk around the grounds and I saw a sight I wanted to capture-the silhouettes of birds in a tree against the purple sky. Hubs worked on getting a good photo (Picture 133) while I explored the nearby area. I noticed something scamper by-a kitty! Pss pss pss pss kitty kitty, and over she came (the only photograph I took wasnt a good one, Picture 134)! I pet her and she followed us back to our bungalow. Hubs went in to take a nap and I sat out with the little girl. She was quite vocal at first, doing a lot of meowing. She didn’t look thin and I didn’t have anything suitable to feed a kitty but I did offer her some water which she repeatedly rejected. Over the next hour or so she warmed up to me a bit. Shed lay at my feet and look up every once in a while to see if I was still there. Confirming my presence, shed lay her little head down again. She almost climbed onto my lap but stopped just short, still unsure so remaining cautious. After hearing a noise which I can only guess alerted her food was about to be served she scampered off and though I looked for her later on I did not see her again =(

    Dinner that night and breakfast the following morning was served in their restaurant buffet style which had, for the first time Id seen in Sri Lanka, a salad bar. Ignoring the advice to avoid fresh vegetables I had a small scoop. Heaven. We have no complaints at all about this hotel.

    Day 12

    The next morning Oscar arrived to take us to the airport. We had tipped him every other day (more on that) and gave him a final cherry on top amount to show our appreciation. My eyes did tear a bit saying goodbye. Its funny how someone can have such an impact on you, but for it not to work in return. Like, sure Oscar prob “remembers” us but I assume at least to some extent we are just another couple he hosts. But for us he was so much more. I feel like one of those bud light commercials: heres to you mr show me around sri lanka man (holding up beer can in genuine appreciation).

    Anyway, I was working hard internally to pull myself together but did get sad again when I saw that sign at customs:

    “We hope adventure followed you everywhere you went.”

    That it did.

  • Report Abuse

    "Their aubergine curry quickly became my favorite! Those string hoppers were good also! Oh, and forget the name (you may recall)-similar to pancakes? Yum!"....

    The pancake like thong you refer to is called Hoppers (English) in local lingo it is called "aaappa". One could have them plain or with an egg on top and goes well with a variety of spicy curries, especially a "seeni sambol" (spicy onion sambol) and fish "ambul thiyal" a dark spicy tuna fish dish. Hoppers can also be had sweetened with palm sugar or treacle mmmmmm!

    So glad to read your lovely trip report and that you have had a gret trip to Sr Lanka.

  • Report Abuse

    NatureGirl thank you for the great trip report. We are off to Sri Lanka in just over a month. I am sure we are going to enjoy our trip as much as you did.
    Cant wait to have a string hopper.

  • Report Abuse


    Stringhoppers are quite bland...they are just strands of vermicilli type noodles "caked" is what you have with them that makes them special.

    Make sure you pour on plenty of "Arnung"(sp?),(a yellow,mild, broth) and sprinkle on some pol (coconut) sambol. Add your favorite curry and a hard boiled egg.....and presto...a meal fit for a king!!!!


    Thanks for taking the time to finish off the Sri-Lanka leg of your trip report. I know how time consuming it can be. I am sure that there are many others here that have followed along....not just the ones who have commented.

    Your travel style is refreshing and the way that you have conveyed your unique observations has been absorbing.

    I am looking forward to your impressions of The Maldives and anything else that you choose to add.

    If you get the time, consider compiling your writings and photos into a book. It is easy and affordable with the program that you download at .I have put a few together and they are an excellent way to re-live your trip and share it with friends.

  • Report Abuse

    I am a bad fodors-trip-report-giver. Free time is few and far between lately so I apologize for the delay in my posts and really hope that despite my erratic timing this will all prove helpful to someone, sometime.

  • Report Abuse

    We waited for our flight in a glass-walled room where nearly every seat was taken. While the plane was stopping in Maldives to let lucky folks like us off for a peak at paradise it was continuing on to London with the remaining suckers.

    I rise to get some water from a nearby cooler and pass a heavy teenaged boy trying to pull himself from a too-tight sweater and wonder instantly if he is teased by cruel children.

    I return with water and hubs and I continue our conversation. I hear someone say “How was your trip?” A few moments later, “Did you enjoy your time in Sri Lanka?” “How long were you in Sri Lanka?” It sounded like someone was on a phone conversation b/c you only heard questions, not answers. I see the teenager has moved across from us now. Because many people are around we do not realize the boy is talking to us. Now is a good time to explain my hubby is not “a people person.” Especially, well, annoying people which is what this fellow turned out to be-and I cringe a bit to even say that b/c I know it sounds mean but….

    He says he heard us speak and knew we were Americans. He said he heard us asking about upgrading to first class. “Are you flying economy,” he asks. Yes, yes we are. “My dad always sends me first class.” “Do you know who my father is?” Eyes of those sitting nearby roll as the boy continues, haha. I am the only one purporting interest-and I am not interested, really. Not b/c he is annoying ("I've been with Del Griffith, I can handle anything") but b/c hubs and I were having our own conversations about the exciting things to come and I really wouldve prefered to return to that. But I am too concerned I may hurt his feelings if I excuse myself from the conversation so I stay and listen about his wealthy father, divorced-he lives with his mom, and the vacations they take, and the private school he attends (he is incredulous that I am not familiar with it, and further incredulous we did not know the latest cricket scores). I feel bad b/c I know people like this. Who talk, but do not listen, and yet are desperate to have a connection with others. (Wasn’t sure whether I would include this in my trip report but did so in case you have felt forced to endure the words of others while in a small area waiting for a flight.) Relief as “first class” is called and the boy disappears.

    Onto more exciting things…

    The water and surrounding islands as we approached landing in Maldives made me think I was crazy to be so sad to leave Sri Lanka when I had *this* on the horizon (Picture 135)! The airport is something between Colombo (very modern) and Dominican Republic (literally: hut). They check your bags for alcohol and any alcohol is taken and not returned. We had decided to get my Dad a bottle of Arrack as a souvenir but knew it would have to wait until the flight back to London. Anyway, alcohol-free, we make our way to a predetermined location to meet up with boat that will escort us to Banyan Tree! Excitement level is high high high! It is our tenth anniversary this very day and we are about to spend it in the middle of the Indian Ocean!

    Not a huge deal, I recognize, but a personal disappointment: The guy who met us was talking on a cell phone, giving us hand-motions to the boat, whispering to us as he also listened to the caller, interrupting our answers when he had to respond to the person on the phone, providing no clear direction on the process. I have to say: I expected perfection on this portion of the trip. Sheer perfection. And this was not starting off well.

  • Report Abuse

    After departing with cell phone guy we boarded a very nice boat branded Banyan Tree. It was classic and plush inside and I wondered if this was how "the rich" travel.

    There was only one other passenger. We smiled, I said hello. He asked if it was our first time to BTV. I answered yes. He replied "good choice," and pushed his life vest to the side a bit to reveal a BTV logo on his polo shirt. Turns out this was the head chef, Neil. We had actually been in contact with him previously when discussing meal options for the sandbank dining.

    Oh right, I havent told you about the sandbank dining!

    As if being in Maldives wasnt enough we were looking for something special to celebrate our anniversary. We saw sandbank dining on the BTV website and thought this might be neat. I should say, this type of thing isnt usually our bag. "This type of thing" being, I dont know, extras at a resort. We had stayed at Sivory in Punta Cana years ago and "beach dining" was an option. While we didnt opt for it we saw other couples who had. And basically, you are like 20 feet away from the rest of us dining (practically) on the beach in the open restaurant. We didnt see the excitement in paying hundreds of dollars for this.

    Nonetheless, we thought we may only be here once and better safe than sorry-lets do it!

    I should say, I was more optimistic that hubs. Which is usually the case for life in general, not just sandbank dining.

    Anyway, there are mutliple menus you can choose from for this event, and you can go mornings, afternoons, or evenings (though I had read in previous reviews going during the day can be quite hot). We chose the dinner option not only b/c that worked best with our schedule but b/c there was something endlessly romantic about staring up at the stars together on our own little island in the middle of nowhere. The dinner menu, nor the other menus, fit our needs b/c a. i choose to avoid animal products and b. my husband is not a fan of seafood (many seafood choices). Neil emailed with us to create a personalized menu to accomdate our special night. But more on that later.

    So we all shake hands and laugh at the chances of running into each other like this as I really wonder if maybe they always check out the guests beforehand in these "chance" encounters. maybe messaging to the team at the resort "these guys seem like real jerks," or whathaveyou.

    The details are fading which is so so so sad but I beleive the boat ride was about 20 minutes or so. Excitement builds as Neill points out the little dot of an island which will be home for the next 5 days. We pull up to a large dock tastefully designed with seating and lighting. We are immediatley greeted by a hostess as fair-skinned as I and I wonder how she manages to so successfully avoid the sun working on the island. her long skirt flutters perfectly in the warm island breeze as she escorts us down the long wooden walkway linking the dock to the island as a gentleman followed behind, softly playing a drum. The world disappeared. The gentle beats played just for us as our feet sunk into the warm white sand of the Maldives.

  • Report Abuse

    From the walkway you enter a large gazebo-the "lobby" were reception resides. The island is teeny tiny-you can see across to the other side. And while I didnt think of it at the time one giant wave and...well, you know. We were offered cold tea and cool towels (Picture 136) in welcome as our host explained the time difference (the island is an hour earlier than Male) and she urged us to set our watches to ensure we did not miss any of the resort events.

    Once our picture was taken (immediately I figured this would be posted in the dorms for employee memorization) she urged us to take advantage of the seaside lunch that was nearly ending. As we had read in previous travel reports, the guests were entirely asian (save for 4 guests from England-no Americans) which we didnt care but figured Id confirm that is the case.

    We approached the buffet and were immediately greeted by name. Not only that, they already knew of my dietary requests. I should say here that most places do not "cater" to an animal-free diet. Be it resorts or restaurants. And yes, we have been to nice ones =) My experience is typically: they offer a salad. Not really eating meat since 8th grade things have gotten better as vegetarianism/veganism has become more popular/trendy but it is still uncommon to have service I am about to describe.

    I was escorted around and the chef personally described which items would be suitable. I was so appreciative of this. I had not even planned on asking-I figured I would stick to the basics (salad) and prob lose a few pounds while there. The complete opposite happened. I think I lost about 5 pounds trekking through Sri Lanka then gained 10 in Maldives!

    Not only did the chef discuss the options available at each meal but he also prepared me special dishes throughout our stay. They made me so much tasty food I was never able to finish an entire meal! Bowls of curry, plates of tofu, piles of veggies-mm mm mmm! I felt like a queen as the dishes kept coming and coming out of the kitchen. Other guests looked on with keen interest, presumably wondering how/why I was getting these special meals. After talking with the chefs I learned this was a bit of a challenge for them that they found interesting. They had not been limited in such a way before to create dishes without animal products and it was a chance for them to put their creative talent to the test. They passed!

    After lunch and the gorgeous view from our waterside table (Picture 137) we were escorted to our room. We paid for a Deluxe BeachFront Villa. There was so much forethought put into deciding which room I cant even tell you. At the same time it is a relatively important thing as you are spending a lot of money and want the best experience possible. So, Beachfront or Oceanfront, Deluxe or Standard? Which side of the island to request? What about those sandbags on the beach I kept reading about? I will begin by telling you what my research showed. Beachfront v. oceanfront: many seemed to think oceanfront, which is set back a bit, was "more private" than beachfront. For anyone wrestling with this decision allow me to set the record straight. Starting with the sandbags. I personally would rather not stay at a villa whose view includes the sandbags. I understand they serve a purpose but just saying-if you can have a villa that doesnt include the sandbags...Though perhaps these rooms are discounted, I dont know. In which case its better to stay at a room with sandbags than not stay at all =)

    Each villa has a little porch, then a walkway leading to your private gazebo. None of the gazebos are secluded. Whether youre in an oceanfront or beachfront your gazebo is on the beach and you can see all your neighbors and all your neighbors can see you (waving: hi!). The only thing that may be more private for the oceanfront rather than the beachfront is the porch/front of your villa. We spent little time sitting here, however, if you plan to sit on the porch rather than gazebo you are set back a bit. People still see you but youre not front and center like you are for the beachfront. That said, If you like the idea of a completely unobstructed view of the beach and ocean (which we did) then go for the beachfront. It is more expensive for a reason =)

    So my rec: beachfront rather than oceanfront.

    Next decision: Standard villa or Deluxe. At the time, the Deluxe villas had been "upgraded" with regard to decor. I had no idea what this meant other than I presumed the standard villas were more outdated. Again, without having something to measure (I couldnt really find clear reviews that showed pictures of each) we chose to simply pay more and ensure we were getting the best of the best. While I did not see the interior of any other villas I can only say I was more than pleased with ours).

    The island is set up in a circle with reception and bar and eating and spa at say six o'clock. The villas circle the perimeter of the island and the employees stay in dorms in the center. You walk through sandy walkways to a sandy path to a private door. Here is your "bell" employees ring, a mailbox which gives you an itinerary of the days activities, and a cute sign to signify "make up my room." Finally you walk along a shorter sandy path with stepping stones to your entrance (Pictures 138-146).

    As we entered our villa relaxing music was playing, scented oil was burning (Picture 147), and the waves crashed in front of us through the large glass doors leading to the beach. Well, "crashing" is a strong word. "Lapping," maybe.

    The decor was fine. I had no complaints. I would decorate differently, however, it could have been a lot lot worse. So, again, I felt pleased with the results. After recovering from the breathtaking view wed be enjoying for the next few days we took a look around. The tall snail-like ceiling, the flowers and anniversary wishes on the bed, and a wittle turtle-wed later learn wed receive a goodie like him each day the room was made up for us (Pictures 147-159).

    The bathroom is really very nice. Plenty of storage in the closet-which came equipped with banyan tree robes and flips (NB on the flips: they are in the drawers). Lots of nice touches like the cute soap containers and the little flowers in the soap dishes (Picture 160-165). An indoor and an outdoor shower. We usually opted for the outdoor b/c hey when else do you have the opportunity (Picture 167)? While there is a door separating the villa living space from the bathroom, there is no door separating the potty from, well, the world. So anything you do you are doing out of doors.

    Doing things outside you dont normally do outside caused a bit of paranoia. Not REALLY. Well, maybe kinda. But not really... I will admit as I was under the shower stream or sitting on the potty Id look around and make sure there were no "gaps" in the wood around us or blank spaces that were forgotten about such that one might peer, even accidentally, into our private garden.

    The only thing "meh" about the bathroom was the jaccuzi (Picture 168). Ours didnt always heat. I think maybe he had run his course in life and was on his last legs. Even if he did work hot tubs I think would be cooler. And BTV agrees as they are upgrading (by now it may already be done since I know it seems I am taking my sweet time writing this).

    Now for what weve all been waiting for (Picture 168)!

    The porch with a little sitting area (Picture 169) (highly recommend having breakfast delivered to your villa. Not only can you enjoy the meal solo and right by the sea you get to pick what you want-after days on end of curry in Sri Lanka and congee (japanese) and baked beans (english-i dont blame them one bit as they are simply making assumptions based on their experience-but if you are white in sri lanka/maldives you are assumed to be from Great Britain and they really think you must love baked beans for breakfast-it was funny) on previous morning at BTV hubs was quite happy to order "an american breakfast." The one morning we had breakfast on our porch was the best. I wouldve done it every morning prior if Id known how perfect it was going to be). Then the wooden walkway with trees on one side for privacy and shade to house a hammock (ahhhhhh the hammock. We spent countless hours together in the hammock-despite that hole in the upper right weave which caused our bottoms to scoot across the sand as the gentle breeze rocked us to napland) and your private gazebo (Pictures 170-172). Heaven. Just heaven. Heading back to your villa from the beach there is a cute water container with a flower floating within and a giant ladle laying across to clean sand from your feet. The day we arrived I saw a little sticker floating inside-the number 10. Naturally, I figured someone, somewhere, somehow, had made that 10 appear b/c we were there celebrating our 10th anniversary (Picture 173-175).

    So now we have begun to take in our amazing surroundings we are left on our own before for a few hours before we need to meet at the dock to take our private boat to our private island for our private sandbank dining experience! Of course, we put on our bathing suits!

    Here is something to keep in mind when requesting which part of the island youd like (and we requested "secluded, we dont care about sun," basically): the island is encircled by an awesome reef. you can snorkel within that area and see some awesome stuff. BUT you can also snorkel beyond the reef if youd like. To do this you have to follow along the inner reef until you get to a channel where you can swim through and go out to sea. Depending on where your villa is you might have to swim a bit to get to a channel. This is by no means a huge deal-just pointing out how convenient this was for our location b/c there was a channel close by. We seemed to have the best of both worlds (inner reef AND sea)...though I chose to stay in one world (inner reef).

  • Report Abuse

    Thanks for taking the time to come back and give us your impressions of the Maldives.

    I LOVED all the detail. I dont think that I will get the chance to go there and I am not even sure that I want to, but the way you have written about it made me feel like I WAS there.

  • Report Abuse

    Hi shanek I was afraid Id lost you for good! Im so glad you are still reading!

    I have prob a couple more things to say about my time in the Maldives-hoping to wrap things up this weekend!

    Any news on your pending Sri Lanka visit?! You must share details if you decide to go! We are thinking of trying to recreate some SL dishes this weekend. Aubergine curry for me, of course =)

  • Report Abuse

    hi naturegirl,

    just reviving your thread to say thank you for such and well-writtten and informative TR. we are close to opting for a trip to Sri Lanka this year to attend a few of the T20 tournament cricket matches taking place between Sept and October [your 1st class friend would approve!] and tour the island as well.

    would you recommend your tour agency? so far I've found, boutique sri lanka, quickshaws, and now this one. how easy did you find them to work with? one of the problems I find with trips to completely new places is that you don't know what questions to ask, ["unknown unknowns", so to speak] and so possibly don't get the best out of the trip. did you find that was a problem?

  • Report Abuse

    Hi annhig!

    I am sorry for the delayed response-this is my first time back as I have finally had a moment to write some more about my time in the Maldives.

    I am laughing out loud at your post-yes our first class friend would approve!

    To answer your question: Yes I would recommend Tikilanka.

    Maybe one day I will get around to completing their online satisfcation survey...

    It seemed in our comparison they were a bit more expensive than some others I researched (including red dot) but aside from the price I could not find a single "con" to going with Tikilanka.

    Unlike other agencies, I couldnt find poor reviews. A few things here and there in reviews Tikilanka themselves posted on their site in the effort of full disclosure I presume.

    We worked with the owner in the UK (John Beswetherick). I would not work with the owner in Sri Lanka-just basing that on our short interaction with him in Kandy. Could be a nice guy, i dont know, but not a personality we would be comfortable working with.

    I thought John was very easy to work with. He always followed up in a reasonable amount of time and provided thoughtful responses with suggestions based on things we said we were interested in.

    And I would recommend Oscar. I am guessing you can request guides. If you request and get Oscar I would so appreciate you telling him how highly we think of him! Im guessing he might remember us as the girl who got pooped on at Botanic Gardens.

    Re the unknown unknowns: Sri Lanka is small and while packed with lots of neat things to see I think if you can say what you are and are not interested in they can customize a great itinerary. Like, do you want beach days? Do you want nature? Wildlife? City or secluded? Luxury or rustic? And really the great thing is b/c it is so small you can experience all of those things in one trip if you so desire.

    That said, we arent "into temples" and were considering skipping them but really ended up being glad we visited (though after the tenth one....).

    Most of the agencies i researched had sample itineraries. In addition to the small amounts of research I had been able to do on my own I looked up some of the options listed in these itineraries.

    So much also I think just comes down to personal pref. TOTH disappointed Shanek but amazed me. Galkadawala was one of the most memorable experiences of my life yet others say it was a waste of time.

    So, again, I think if you start with things you know you are interested in in general (e.g. beach, animals, etc) that can set up the bones of your trip and then you can fill in with surrounding sights.

    Please let me know if you have any more questions on this! If i can be any help at all helping you plan a successful trip i would be more than happy. Its an awesome place!

  • Report Abuse

    So we swam for a bit in the clear water then headed in with plenty of time to get ready for our special evening. We are in the shower then "ring ring," the phone. We were to be at the dock at 5:30. It was currently 4:30. Or was it....Though hubs swears he set his watch to match BTV time, it was not set. So much for time to glamour and pamper before our big night! Quick out of the shower, running through sand, wet hair to the dock!

    Immediately they speed us (literally, the boat was going super fast-due to our error and their desire to make up for it I am sure) to our sandbank. So allow me to describe. We are on the boat going going going...I cant see our resort island, I cant see anything but water all around. The sun is certainly not "setting" yet but things are starting to turn that pretty yellow color that they do right beforehand.

    Then we see it! A sandy island in the middle of nothing! Admittedly spacial relations are not a forte but I will try to explain the size. Sitting here thinking....ok I cant. I will guess and say 1/4 of a football field? In lenghth. And maybe....20 feet wide? Its small. It was oval shaped. On one side was a small cluster of trees and this is where our hosts were preparing dinner. Also on this side was our dining table-though I tried not to look at it until the official reveal. As we pulled up to the island we had to walk in the water to get to shore. Not too high-maybe to knees-well, my knees. prob my hubs ankles heh. The first thing we see is the message drawn in the sand: Welcome Mr and Mrs Smith! So amazing! I cant even explain how I was feeling at that moment!

    They offered for us to explore the other side of the sandbank and enoy the sunset until dinner was prepared. We had perhaps 15 or 20 min (grr details fading) to walk around and take things in. And by "take things in" I mean ask ourselves "can you believe we are really here?" Even hubs, who is more apprehensive than even I to these sorts of resort extras, was like yeah this is pretty awesome. Even if we had to get back in the boat then and there and return to the resort it wouldve been worth it-watching the sun set together in the middle of the indian ocean.

    Luckily for us though we also got dinner! Shortly we were called to our dining table. I must explain in detail as it was gorgeous and the details of this sight will not fade. Our table was (here we go again) maybe...ten feet from the waters edge. There was a man-made hill of sorts built of sand around the perimeter of the table (more on that later) with tealights along the edge and various shells that our hosts had collected and placed! The table was of course set for 2 with another tealight and a hurricane globe with a larger candle inside and a bottle of wine (had requested the substitution from champagne). Id like to show in a photograph how lovely this looked but I cant because I later discovered, after seeing how crappy most of our pictures turned out, my spouse thought this trip to the other side of the world would be a good time to experiment with our camera and leave the default setting, after years of being on automatic, on manual. This from the boy who also thought it a good idea to get a brand new haircut the day before our wedding.

    So you will have to take my word-it was really just indescribable. Hubby's eyes meet mine and he takes me hand. We smile softly at each other. He starts to speak, presumably to say something completely romantic.

    Him (coy): I have a giant sandbag between my legs.

    Me (rolling eyes and laughing): Oh are you serious? Can we not talk about sex for five minutes?

    Him (serious): No (lifting tablecloth) I really have a giant sandbag between my legs (he reveals a legit giant sandbag between his legs).

    The sun was nearly set and the stars were coming out-which was key. A cloudy night on a secluded sandbank in the middle of nowhere would be nice, but a clear night on a secluded sandbank in the middle of nowhere was awesome! I totally felt like Fievel-thinking my friends and family could be looking at the same stars "underneath the great big sky" (though later realized, after i thought about it for real and not just in the magical sense of how i was feeling that moment, of course for various reasons, not likely the case)! As it turns out this was the clearest night of our stay. Makes you wonder!

    Our hosts were wonderful. They did not rush us one bit. In fact I swear its like we could be sitting there to this day and they would still be waititng patiently. Darkness came and you could see nothing but the stars and the candles. It was not scary or ominous it was amazing. You could hear the small waves lapping-it was peaceful, unreal. Pinch us!

    I had put my glasses on to get a good view of the stars and oh whats that? By the water? Still cant see in the darkness...Grab the camera and take a picture with flash: CRABS! On the smaller side but hundreds of them! All lined up looking at us? Naw not true. They were facing the water-eating their dinner too I presume? But funny they werent there until nightfall! It didnt bother me-they werent like coming for us or even interested in us, however, I had read on previous/earlier reviews you can get pinched by crabs as you sat dining on your sandbank so I imagine that prompted the protective wall of tealights. Great idea-kept the crabs at bey and of course helped create a really pretty ambiance.

    Dessert was served-I forget what hubs had requested/suggested but it was nothing special. I had asked for maybe a mini "wedding" cake for him so, again, felt a tiny tinge of disappointment that it was just a standard, yet nice, dessert. And really, things had been perfect so I tried not to dwell.

    Then, our small group of hosts approach. They present us with an anniversary cake! Accompanied with a cake slicer tastefully adorned with a red silk flowing bow. Perfect perfect yes now things were perfect! The cake was animal-free made for both of us to eat-so wonderful!

    On one hand we did not want the night to end. Who else can say they have celebrated their 10th anniversary in such a way? Not many, I suspect. It was so special. I recall a movie where once you died you had a period of time to select one memory from your life to carry on with you (After Life). I believe this experience on the sandbank might be my memory...

    More to come.

  • Report Abuse

    Hi naturegirl,

    that was weird! for some strange reason I never saw your reply to me until you posted the next instalment. a shame really because by the time I saw it, we had already organised and part paid for a tour with Boutique Sri lanka. Both Kathies and Thursdays spoke very highly of them and of the 4 or so agencies we made contact with, they were the ones who seemed most responsive to our needs. also they are local to Sri Lanka [they act as agents for the hotels, who we pay direct when we leave] so the money is all going into Sri Lankan pockets.

    anyway, thanks for reviving your thread as I'm adding it to the ones i am studying in order better to plan our itinerary.

  • Report Abuse

    Oh annhig-I had not logged on here for a long time. I posted my response to you the same day I wrote more about Maldives.

    I am so glad you have a company you feel good about! Looking fwd to seeing your itinerary and reading your trip report when you return!!

  • Report Abuse

    After our magical evening on the sandbank we returned to our room. In addition to a traditional turn down service our scented oil was lit, the soft lighting by the outdoor tub was on, as was the soft light on our beach gazebo. A fresh flower was placed in our outdoor water container. Our robes and slippers were laid out on each side of our bed, soft music was playing. What a thing to come home to! We spent the balance of the evening under the stars.

    The remaining days in the Maldives were largely similar. And I dont say that in a bad way. In fact, ideally, I could have had a few more days of "ho-hum time in the Maldives." Most days were spent snorkling (save for the one day a storm was brewing and the water was rough-strong current that made the ocean look like it was flowing right to left). And of course we went diving. Gorgeous sights, as expected. Our guide was excellent (Miza?) and patient-sadly I dont go diving often enough to fully grow comfortable with the process of breathing through a rubber tube. It feels claustrophobic. Man I bit that mouthpiece so hard the entire time my jaw was sore the rest of the day. We got pretty close to a nurse shark who was chilling in a little nook. Too close, imo. In my case at least. I kept floating closer and closer...the problem was I was trying to be so careful not to tocuh the coral of course that my legs were raised up and I floated along, becoming surrounded by coral such that I couldnt easily just turnaround. So closer and closer I get. I am floaoting into the nook. I look back-of course nobody sees my expression of panic. I whirl my hands to frantically try to put things in reverse. Not happening. Instead I float helplessly-deeper, deeper, deeper into the nook I go. Um, anybody going to grab me? Pull me back maybe? Somehow, someway, I am able to escape, only narrowly cheating certain death.

    We spent time visiting the baby turtles (BTV is the only resort approved to house turtles, more here and in their tank and witnessed the release of a turtle into the sea which was slow going and mildly exciting. The staff was emotional which was touching and what made me stay to see the big guy off. For this event people from surrounding islands boated over which I did not like just because i liked keeping our little paradise to ourselves!

    Anyway, it was during one of our visits to the turtle tank that one of our hosts (was it the chef? I dont recall), upon hearing my experience with the shark while diving, mentioned the sharks never come on "this" side of the coral. Remember how I said there is a ring of coral? And some channels to go through to the rest of the ocean? Anyway, not that we were concnered about sharks getting us while we snorkled but it was comforting to know.

    Fast forward to oh about an hour later. Hubs and I are snorkling inside the reef (the safe, non-shark part). La la la, pointing out interesting coral. Cute and funny looking sealife. Random things burrowing, etc. Time above water seemed to freeze as we were having a chill time exploring-slowly flip...flip...flip...flipping around beneath.

    Then, it happens.

    I find myself about 10 feet away from the shark.

    I lock eyes with my husband and somehow even with that snorkle mouthpiece he is able to translate my cry of, "SHARK!" We 180 and our slow flip...flip...flips become frantic FLIPFLIPFLIPS and I wonder if all the comotion might interest the shark and draw him near. Its like, do you slowly slink away or mad rush get the heck out. While it wouldve made sense to just flip towards the shoreline we somehow both, through osmosis since we are not otherwise communicating, decide the best thing is to just swim away laterally. We flipped all the way back to the front of our villa and only THEN did we aim towards shore. Anyway, we left nothing to luck and flipped ourselves all the way to the shoreline-long after we could easily have stood, we are still swimming/flipping. Our backs and butts are completely out of the water now. Things are about 12 inches deep. And we are still flipping. We roll up into the sand on our bellies. Peel off our facemasks. Look at each other, both out of breath. "Ive been beached," says hubs. and we laugh. Just another day in the Indian Ocean.

    More to come.

  • Report Abuse

    Ok so I have just one more installment of our time in Maldives but before I close with that Id like to leave a note regarding tipping in Sri Lanka and Maldives.

    We researched ad naseum to determine the best way to tip in SL and Maldives. The best scoop we found re SL was on trip advisor and suggested we tip about 200-250 LKR/day. Regardless of the exchange rate from dollar to rupee i had a hard time reconciling this (seemed too low). We threw caution to the wind and tipped as we liked. We gave Oscar $20 the first day given it was a lot of driving on his part. We gave him $10 a day after that. On our final day we gave him an additional $80.

    Re our lodging: We left about $20 (sometimes more, sometimes less) to the major players that tended to us.

    For the maldives: We had read tipping is not customary in maldives. On one hand that makes things easy. On the other we come from a completely different culture where we tip to show appreciation. So not tipping was not something we were comforatable with. Ultimately we left $2 a day for our roomkeeper. It would have been more had he been a bit more consistent. We left $20 for our diving guide, we left $20 each for the chefs and bar supervisor. On the boat ride home from the sandbank we gave $20 each to the 4 or 5 men who hosted our special evening (in addition to the amount charged).

    Maybe we gave too much, maybe we gave too little.

    We put a lot of pressure on ourselves to figure out the right way to handle tipping and hopefully the wonderful people that hosted us throughout appreciated what we could give.

    I write this to give others planning to travel here some kind of measure...though admittedly I have no idea how what we gave compares to what others give (other than, again, the trip advisor thread).

    Sooo really, I guess my comments regarding tipping might not actually be helpful after all.

    Ok, so this trip report has been going on for 8 months and I am probably the only one still reading it.

    Lets finish up shall we...

  • Report Abuse

    Our next to last full day at BTV hubs was "sick." I put that in quotes b/c though I tried to be understanding I was annoyed. Who doesnt feel well their last day in paradise?

    Also annoying, save for the first night in our room, things were never done consistently. Our lights were not turned on again. No more fresh flower placed in our water container. I think the only thing that was done each night was the oil being lit. And even then-it was supposed to be a different scent each night but they all strangely smelled the same. Maybe b/c they were the same or b/c the previous oils were never cleaned out. Robes were sporadic. Sometimes they were nicely displayed, sometimes not. Aside from that very first night it was never perfect. And like, Im not asking for much here. Its a checklist of like 5 things: lay out the robes/slippers, turn down the covers, turn on the soft outdoor lights, oil and music, fresh flower. Boom. But no, never done. I even so badly wanted things to be perfect I actually asked at reception to please help make this happen. Not in a complainy way, but in a "things were so perfect that first night" kind of way. Nonetheless, we never enjoyed another night of all the things on the checklist being done. That is one of my two complaints about my time there. And this I hope can be improved upon.

    The second complaint? The people. Luckily, thankfully, gratefully, most of our stay either nobody was staying in the surrounding villas or they never came out. Aside from one couple where the guy was taking pictures of the lady on the beach morning noon and night we saw nobody on our side of the island. It was like The Blue Lagoon. Then, i think our last full day...they came. We were surrounded. And the mere presence of people isnt bothersome. In fact, I expected it (realized we had lucked out thus far). But the issue was how annoying the people were. One couple in particular. They were really really loud. The lady would like lay in their gazebo and sing songs at the top of her lungs. They would do hand claps, like miss mary mack mack mack all dressed in black black black incessantly. And while one might say how loud could that possibly be? I will say: loud enough =) The bottom line is some people were just really inconsiderate. They dont seem to appreciate others are there on vacation also and maybe hearing you sing isnt part of my vacation plan.

    Aside from our sandbank dining one evening stood out to me as absolutely perfect. I should explain here dinner runs from blank time to blank time (I forget the times). So you are not under pressure to attend-you can arrive at your leisure. You have your own table. There is a dress code but about 5 people, including us, seemed to follow it. Most people were wearing shorts, tanktops, flipflops, etc. Not sure why they even have the rule if they dont plan to enforce it. At the same time, we dont care what other people were wearing-just saying.

    Also now might be a good time to say: the crowd that was on the island during our stay had a pretty regular schedule. They spent their days in the bar spread out with backpacks. Each and every person was on a device. Be it a macbook, iphone, ipad, ipod. We dont care how people spend their vaca-if thats how they want to spend it cool, do so. But we laughed b/c being on our blackberries or any other device was the *last* thing we wanted to do.

    Also, evenings were emtpy. meaning, this crowd did not partake in night life (which to a degree was fine as we def did not want a Margarittaville nightlife). They ate dinner and immediately retreated to their villas. The bartenders confirmed this is how it always it. Anyway, quite different from other vacations but actually better for us b/c again it made us feel like we had the place to ourselves. The only night i felt bad about it was when the staff put on a show. It was actually really really cool. Drums, singing, dancing-the Maldivian people. It was really such a neat experience. But there were 3 couples there. Us, a british couple, and a british mom/daughter duo. The other guests stuck around for a short while but quickly rolled. You can imagine things migtve been more lively with more spectators but whatevs.

    So anyway back to the special night: This particular night the dining area was a bit busy so we headed to the bar to hang out for a bit. He grabbed the chess board and ordered some drinks (I ordered the ginger tea Id received on arrival. N.B. The gentleman in charge of the bar made it perfecfty each and every time-there was a night he mustve had off and the other staff member who prepared it.....bleh). We played for hours. Hours. It was the most intense chess game ever! Weve played maybe twice ever so not much to compare to but... Enrobed in warm candlelight which softly illuminated the chessboard, we sat. Ocean waves lapping behind us. stars shining above us. We seemed to be the only people on the planet. Until a host approached and we were served the best little snack ever! Shelled pistachios and giant black olives. I have yet to figure out the type of olives they gave us. I have tried numerous times to recreate that snack. Should I email BTV? Is that weird? "What kind of olives did you give us?" Im totally going to do it. Nothing was happening, nothing stood out, but that night, those hours we spent together, quietly hunched over the chess board, was one of the most memorable moments of my life (Picture 176).

    We really had a wonderful time at Banyan Tree. The service was really just outstanding. Outstanding. Well except for the room guy but I cant hold it against the others. Our time there will stay with us forever and I thank those that hosted us for ensuring it was special (Picture 177).


    My closing thoughts on our time in Sri Lanka and Maldives:

    I wish I wish I wish I had taken pictures of every sunrise, every sunset, every place setting, every breaking ocean wave, every candle flicker*, and every lovely face we encountered on our journey. I was so living in the moment though that I often didnt even think of preserving these experiences any place other than in my heart.

    *...every elephant footprint. yep Im still bitter about it.

    Thanks for reading.

  • Report Abuse

    I was so excited to find this thread back at the top. It has been one of the most enjoyable trip reports that I have read, right up with "A CALIFORNIAN ODYSSEY" from 2010, except I really should not count that one as it was mine!

    I had almost given up hope of getting closure but I am very happy that you took the time to finish it off.

    I remember mentioning my planning for an upcoming holiday in the very early parts of this thread. At that stage it seemed so far away, but I have been back for 2 weeks, just getting over the worst part of my post Thailand blues and this comes along to inspire me to start planning the next adventure.

    Thanks for sharing.

  • Comments have been removed by Fodor's moderators

  • Report Abuse

    Hi NatureGirl19317 First of all wish you a very happy belated 12th anniversary.
    Thanku very much for sharing your wonderful experience with us.
    I am getting married to my college sweetheart and we are planning to head to Maldives and Sri Lanka for our honeymoon. While researching for the same we stumbled upon your post and we are so glad we did.
    We really cant thanku enough for taking all the efforts for finishing the report.

  • Report Abuse

    Thanks for an amazing trip report, I'm planning our honeymoon in Sri Lanka next month and this has been very helpful. It all sounds so magical, you are great writer, I read every word. Thanks for taking the time to share.

  • Comment has been removed by Fodor's moderators

  • Report Abuse

    What a truly wonderful and enthralling read this has been, thank you for sharing. Like the fellow traveller's skill with his camera and the emotion found in his photographs you wished you could achieve, I would love to be able to paint a picture so fascinating, as you have managed in your trip report!

111 Replies |Back to top

Sign in to comment.