What a trip! Not at all what I expected. Even tho I have wanted to do this trip for 20 years my concepts were based on photos rather than reality. Spent 6 days in Kathmandu valley. Saw principal sights and went one day to Namo Buddah monastery for mountain views. I expected Nepal to be Switzerland East but it is India Light. Thanks to Kathie, we stayed at Hyatt. Going from Hyatt to Boudhanath is a joy. Loved the stupa and walk thro neighborhood was fascinating unless it was during the nightly electrical shutdown when we hoped for motobikes to zoom thru to bring some light.
The roads were so rough and the traffic so intense, pollution so extreme we did not go into main city for dinner. Just not worth the journey. Ate most dinners at Hyatt which is unusual for us but they were fine.
Bhutan followed usual tourist trail. I could see why Dogster did not like it. Being stuck in a car with guide you do not like would be miserable. Bhutan is not a sit in teahouse country. People in Bhutan do not go to restaurants very often, or never. Just not that type of economy. But...if you go now you get a chance to see a country in the midst of change from extremely poor substistance farming (and that means terraces on the side of a mountain) to a more modern lifestyle with education, medical treatment, a government that now has funds which it is using to improve the life of its citizens. Not all is perfect even with GNH (gross national happiness) they are very prejudiced against the Indian workers brought in to work on roads and other heavy hand labor, and they expelled the people from Nepal who had migrated to the country more than 100 years ago (these people are in refugee camp in Nepal which won't take them back...big fire there while we were in Nepal). We found everyday in Bhutan interesting. Lots and lots of Buddist sites. Even got blessed with a penis (wooden). Turned enough prayer wheels to bring me needed blessings.
I did not make it to the monastery at Tiger's Nest. I took a horse as far as it would go and that is to lookout parallel to Tiger's Nest. Could not even think of going down and up the 800 steps to get to TN and then doing it again to get back. The elevation in the country made me breathless quite often. Everything is at the top of a hill!!! Everything!! I got everywhere except TN but slowly. Other tourist people my age were also going slowly
and some did not even get above teahouse below TN. But that day was really good and I was delighted I made it down the mountain without problems.
We were able to stay 3 nights at the Uma, 2 night at the Taj, and 2 nights at the Kichu in Wangdu. The Kichu was not at extra cost. The Kichu was fine, but no room phone or tv, or internet, heating by small electric heater (fine for our time of year) food rice and vegetables. For a no extra cost place it was lovely, but...staying at Taj and Uma was a pleasure. If you can afford it...go for it. Bhutan is trying but the roads are still terrible and will be, endless switchbacks on mountains...that can't change. the elevation is high, lots of walking, so a comfortable place to stay at night is really appreciated.
Unless you are treker or have very special interest, our week in Bhutan seemed enough. We met birders who were there for 3 weeks...wow! got to love those birds. After our route things get more difficult, less amenities for tourists. A squat toilet in a pitch dark closet is enough of a challenge for me.
This was trip of lifetime. So glad I went, but Europe looks like vacation travel. Nepal and Bhutan were experience. Go to our family website www.Brunsberg. com to see my son-in-law's comments and great photos.
Back from Nepal and Bhutan
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Thanks for your report, Elainee. I'm glad we opted for Sikkim rather than Bhutan!
I wonder what happened to that guide...? Maybe they had him sacrificed to the great god of Bhutanese tourism. Thanks, Elainee, for making me feel a little less stupid at me reaction. You did all the tourist things because, well, that's all there IS to do. Uma is great, tho', eh?
Sounds like you had a good time!
If you come across the guide one doesn't like will be immediately replaced. Just need to talk to the tour operator. As Elaine pointed out, Bhutan is good for experience. Everything is hard life which makes different from Western comfortable life.
Elainee: I respect your impression on the country as a tourist, as this is your sole discretion. But if this forum allows, I would like to comment on some of your comments since your few remarks could blemish the country and its people.
Being a predominantly Buddhist country, our philosophy is to express the compassion to any living beings. I do agree that there could be some flaws in following that because no one is perfect.
Yet on the prejudiced part towards the indian workers, I would like to inform the forum as follows:
Bhutan has received a grant from the Indian govt. to build (new one as well as resurface the old ones) some of the highways in and around the country and the contract has been awarded to a company called DANTAK by the indian govt, one of the biggest road building company in India. Those workers, which you have seen along the road belongs to them.
In such a scenario and being a small country, bhutanese govt. is not in a position to comment.
As for flushing out of those nepalies who have settled illegally in the country, without much ado, I would like to express that it was a matter of the sovereignty of the country. I m sure any country would do that to protect its own sovereignty. As an example look at what US govt. did for bombarding the twin tower in NY (please note that I didn’t mean to hurt the sentiment of the americans here)
If any one is interested to read a story then here is the blog on the similar story: http://bhutanstory.blogspot.com/
'...on the prejudiced part towards the Indian workers, I would like to inform the forum as follows... [the] Bhutanese govt. is not in a position to comment
Well, that's told us sweet nothing at all.
Let me intoduce you to one of our quaint Western practices; it's called Freedom of Speech. Blemish away, Elainee...
Thank you for introducing me to your quaint western practices of “freedom of speech”. I believe that freedom of speech is used in a right way with the right information not by defaming other or else it could backfire you
Elainee, Thanks for honest assessment and report of your trip. You are correct, there are vacations and there are experiences. Sometimes they coincide, but one person's vacation is another's nightmare.
I enjoyed looking at your photos but will point out an often made error: You have a shot with the label "The closest we'll ever get to the summit of Mt. Everest". That mountain is actually Makalu, 5th highest. It is massive, impressive and does look bigger than Everest.
You have another photo labeled "And another 8,000+ meter mountain (just 14 in the world)". That was actually the closest you'll ever get to the summit of Mount Everest. Lhotse (4th highest) is to the right of Everest. The long ridge in front of Everest is called Nuptse. The well known peak Ama Dablam is clearly visible almost centered in your excellent shot.
P.S. Since the weather was so stellar you probably also saw Cho Oyo (6th highest) and definitely Kangchenjunga (3rd), meaning you saw five of the six highest mountains on earth on that one flight.
You'll have to fly over northern Pakistan to pick up the one you missed!
Thanks Nelson. I actually knew which was Everest thanks to a gentleman from France who was telling me the names of the mountains as we passed them. I kept calling "Everest" whenever we passed a big triangular peak. I was happy with any and all. It was an exceptionally clear flight. So lucky!! And it will be the closest I ever get. wow! five out of six.
Yes, there are experiences and vacations. I do like both, but it is better when one is prepared. Kathmandu, to me was interesting, intense, vibrant, but not charming. I was put off by all the garbage everywhere. People would sweep a few feet in front of their stores or home and then the garbage would just sit there. But, wherever there was room these same people grew the most beautiful, perfect, immaculate vegetable gardens. Amazing!
I hear you about Kathmandu. I was first there in 1977 and it was a different place then (sadly, I didn't get there in the '60's!). I returned in 1991, and was shocked and saddened by the changes. I returned yet three more times, most recently in 2002. My interest was in long high-altitude treks and I was always glad to get out of town and back up into the crystal Himalayan cloud world.
Nice to go through your article about your experiences.
welcome back again
Just a housekeeping question, Elainee, what is the ATM situation in Bhutan and Nepal? Im on my way in 2 weeks and have not had much of a chance to check on this. Thanks for the trip report. Sounds like an amazing adventure.
There are many ATMs om Kathmandu. Not all work with our cards, but I had no trouble finding some. Bhutan has one I saw in Paro. It was not working when I was there. One worked in Thimpu with my card, not with my son-in-laws. Your guide will know where to find it. It was near the Indian restaurant where we had dinner on a main street. That is as much as I know. Remember, nobody will exchange Bhutan money when you leave the country so use it up. I returned home with some.
So maybe just take Indian Rupees?
Ask your guide if you need Bhutan rupees. In the shops that sell expensive stuff, they will take credit cards. When we bought ice cream, snacks, we needed Bhutan money, but amybe they will take Indian. Since your meals on the tourist plan are rather simple, snacks are good. We also brought granola bars for our kids and the grown-ups as well. Some very long drives.
Indian Rupee is accepted widely in the country and is par to Nu. but bring only 100 bill and below. 500 bill is considered as illegal tender in the country.
45 India Rupee equals $1 US