FromDC

Hi everyone,
It has been a while since I posted on the forum because we haven't been back to Asia in about 4 years (we actually had a Borneo trip all planned but had to cancel because of work ). But now it looks like we might have the time and the tickets so off we go (we hope). I only began to seriously begin planning yesterday when were able to put a hold on tickets. So our itin looks like this

We arrive in BKK in the evening and want one or two full days. Fly to Burma and have either 13 or 14nights here. Then a day in BKK, and a one night layover in HKG before heading home.

I've emailed Santa Maria and asked them for some suggested itineraries with 3- 4 nights each in Bagan and Inle , and minimal time in Mandalay, only to use it as a base for side trips if necessary. I'm staring out with a few questions for you all and before I can get my hands on a guidebook, which wont be until wednesday, as I am out of the country until then.

First, what is the different between staying in bagan and New Bagan, I cant quite figure that out from the posts.
Second, in my first email to Santa Maria, Zaw seemed to discourage more than 3 nights at Bagan Inle. We like to try to stay put and relax, not rush around a lot. Plus it will be hot in July and that can have a bad effect on DHif he isn't careful. So what would an itinerary lookalike that would allow unto take a bit easier, stay in very nice places and enjoy the beauty of Burma?
Any strong recs given the time of year? We probably do not want to go to a beach resort, as we spend a great deal of time in anguilla.
THANKS

shelleyk

We spent 4 nights in Bagan and 4 nights at Inle Lake and thought it was a good amount of time for us. 5 nights usually equals 3.5 days for sightseeing. The extra half day was not needed in either place, so we just relaxed and chilled out, which you will need to do if visiting in July. It will be very hot in Bagan and you probably will have only early moirnings and late afternoons for sightseeing, with a midday break at your air conditioned hotel. We stayed at Tharbar Gate Hotel in Old Bagan. The hotel was nice enough, had a large swimming pool and was near many good restaurants. I think the difference between Old Bagan and New Bagan is the proximity to restaurants and most temples.

shelleyk

I meant to say 4 nights equals 3.5 days of sightseeing.

Kathie

I'm with Shelly, I'd recommend 4 nights in each place. Most travel agents will try to pack in more, but they will respect what you want if you tell them. I expect you got a particular kind of recommendation because you stared out asking for an itinerary rather than giving him an idea of what you wanted.

Old Bagan is close to the temples, New Bagan is a distance from the temples. If you stay in Old Bagan, you can easily see three days of temples via horsecart. From New Bagan, you'd likely want a car and river for a day or two because of distances. I much prefer Old Bagan. We stayed at the Tharbar Gate on our first trip. It has an ideal location.

I'd suggest an overnight in Yangon, then fly to Mandalay, three nights there (I highly recommend the Rupar Mandalar) fly to Inle, 4 nights there (I highly recommend the Inle Lake View), Fly to Bagan, spend four nights there. Then back to Yangon for a couple of nights. The Strand is our favorite place in Yangon.

joan47

Personally I would spend an extra day in Inle if you can - there is so much to see and do there, and to use for a base to go to Kakku, etc. Give yourself a little time to just veg. I was not impressed with Mandalay - could cover the outlying regions and a quick tour around Mandalay in two days. Four days is about right for Bagan.

FromDC

Is it possible to fly to BKK from anywhere other than Yangon so that I don't have to double back?

Kathie

No. You will fly in a circular route, as all the domestic airlines do.

FromDC

Here's what I'm thinking, but I haven't heard back from Zaw. Hope he writes today because I am supposed to book my tickets by tomorrow night

Day 1. Arrive BKK early eve
Days 2-4 BKK( weekend mkt, fit clothes for DH)
Day 5. Early flight to Yangon, bit of sightseeing
Day 6. Fly to mandalay
Day 7. Full day trip to Sagaing
Day8 pyin u lain
Day 9 fly to heho, go to Inle
Days 10-12 Inle
Day 13 fly to Bagan
Days 14-15 Bagan
Day 16 back to Yangon
Day 17 back to BKK
Day 18 lv BKK. Overnight in hong kong
Day 19 back to dc

I thought I had plenty of time but now it seems short. Would you trade off a day at Bagan or Inle? We are not interestied in trekking and I am worried about the heat. Where is the weather best in July?

Thanks everyone, I've been reading trip reports in the meantime. Hoping your highly rated hotels are available..

Kathie

I'm sure Zaw won't be back to you by tonight, as this is Thingyan, the Burmese New Year. Everything is closed for multiple days, including the domestic airline booking offices. I'd go ahead and get your tickets, as I'm sure he can make arrangements for you as July is low season.

In terms of weather it will be hot! Mandalay and Bagan will be hot, Inle less hot, and Yangon hotter than hell. It will be cooler in Pyin U Lwin, but I'm not sure it's worth a day with your limited time. I would not take a day away from either Inle or Bagan. It will be cool out on the lake in the early morning - get started really early. We started every morning at 6:30. Make sure you have hats to protect you from the sun and use sunscreen lavishly. Likewise, in Bagan, go out at sunrise (the best time to see the temples), go back to your hotel for a swim at mid-day and go back out at 3:30 or 4.

FromDC

Booked tix but haven't heard back from Zaw yet. I want to do a bit of shopping in Burma, some jewelry and some art. I understand there is a good jade market in Yangon and I'd like to buy some silver bracelets with some stones. So I'm wondering if I should spend one extra day in Yangon and cut a day from Mandalay or Bagan.

If I knew the flight schedules, I might be able to make the tradeoffs if some of the flights are early in the day or late, I'd know where to cut.

Any thoughts? I haven't read much about shopping - - only textiles from Kathie.

Kathie

Burma is no shopper's Mecca, unlike Bangkok. I looked at Jewelry in Scott's market, and was not impressed. We did buy a set of carved wooden monks in Yangon, and you've read about the textiles. If you want another day in Yangon, cut out the Pyin U Lwin day trip from Mandalay. In terms of art, the Strand has a lovely gallery. They had the best we saw anywhere.

Even if you knew the flight schedules, I doubt it would help much. Every one of our flights had a time change of an hour or more between our last set of email confirmations from Zaw and our arrival in Yangon. The airlines change flight times at whim.

FromDC

Thanks, Kathie. I'll try to dig a bit deeper into the silver/art markets. I've seen some really lovely things that are from Burma, I'll try to get more information about where to find them.

Kathie

The best crafts we saw were at Inle. In Bagan, you'll find exquisite lacquerware. Scotts Market in Yangon has some of everything.

There was an article in the NYT in the last year on artists in Burma. And I remember someone's trip report included an account of visiting an artist in Yangon... maybe PattyRoth?

FromDC

Ok, I'll look for it, thanks

FromDC

It hasn't been easy to communicate during the holidays. Zaw didn't respond to my second email and at around the same time I was speaking with a colleague who had recently returned from Mynamar and gave me the name of his agent. I've had a couple of emails, found the LP Guide so that I could read some more, thought about what we really want to do and came up with a slightly revised itin and would appreciate comments:
Day 1: Arrive YGN. Hotel Strand
Day 2 Fly to Inle. Four nights (don't really want to do this first but it is the only way to squeeze in the cruise that will give us some sightseeing. Going from Bagan to Mandalay, they don't stop in Sagain)
Day 6: Fly to Mandalay in the morning, afternoon tour to U Bein bridge? Stay at a hotel in a central location because we will only be there one night.??
Days 7,8: Cruise on RV Paukan to Bagan. According to the brochure I saw on line, the boat stops for sightseeing in Saingan.
Days 9,10, 11: Arrive Bagan in the morning,stay at Tharabar Gate hotel
Days 12, 13. fly to RGN,stay at Stand?
Day 14: Fly to BKK in the morning.

I think the cruise will be cooler for us than sightseeing in Mandalay and I have heard that the boat is lovely and watching the river life is fascinating. As I wrote above, however, it means doing Inle first. I think half a day around Mandalay will be enough for us, the U Bein bridge is my main goal since the boat cruise is supposed to stop at Mingun and Sagain for sightseeing

Kathie

I think your itinerary looks pretty good. Inle first actually works very well. Where are you staying at Inle? I highly recommend the Inle Lake View. Do make sure you go to Sankar for one of our Inle days.

In Mandalay, I don't think it matters where your hotel is. Mandalay isn't really a walking city. We loved the Rupar Mandalar, which is a bit out of town.

Do you know for sure that the cruise runs in July?

As I've said before, Tharbar Gate is ideally located.

I'd stay at the Strand both stays in Yangon. We spent one night at the Savoy and didn't like it nearly as much. The other option is the Governor's Residence, but I liked being right in the middle of the city.

FromDC

It isn't easy getting info on the cruises but the Paukan website has sailings all of July. I don't know if spaces are available, waiting to hear back from the agent. Thanks for your help, Kathie, our tastes in hotels seem to be very similar. I have been a bit surprised at the prices, though - - $200 per night for the Stand and also the Rupar Mandalar. BUT, we are saving some $ in BKK and HKG. Snagged a harbor view room at the Salisbury YMCA and there is a pay 2 get one night complimentary at the BKK Oriental.

Kathie

The top hotels in Burma are a bit expensive. All of the prices in Burma are going up with the huge influx of visitors.

Are you planning to use our friend Min Thu in Bagan?

FromDC

I would like to use Min Thu. I sent him an email a couple of weeks ago but I didn't follow up again because I wasn't certain of the dates in July. That will be at the top of my list as soon as the itin is settled.
I'm having a difficult time finding out about river cruises. We would really like to spend one or two nights on the river but the RV Paukan seems to be the only one going in July...I just have to wait a bit longer to get some responses, I guess.
How was the food at Rupar Mandalar? Are there any restaurants close by or must you dine there?

pattyroth

And Kathie's right. We were able to visit an artist's home (after our guide got government permission) and bought a painting which is now hanging over our fireplace and we love it! I guess that is normally not allowed, so we were thrilled.