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Trip Report A Trip to Bandhavgarh National Park

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For whole trip report please visit my blog on

Bandhavgarh is one of the best places in India to see tigers in wild. This April we planned a trip there and a few places around. In Chennai the weather is really hot at this time of the year, and specially this year. So it is a good time to get away from here. Although temperature is more or less similar in MP during day, low humidity does not hurt you like it does in Chennai. And we were luckier to have a cloudy weather.

So it was a trip with my family for 3 days. We started from Howrah Railway Station in Shaktipunj Express at 1:10 pm. The train takes 24 hours to reach Khanna Banjari.

Day 1

We reached Khanna Banjari by 1pm. About 1 hours 30 mins late. The railway station was a weird one. We hardly realized it was a station at first. Had to hop beside rail tracks, as the platform was not really close. And my sister-in-law was nearly left behind on train in because of hesitation.

Our car was already waiting outside. Until we reached, our driver didn’t even realize that one of the tyre was punctured. So we waited. We saw a bright blue bird flying around, couldn’t shoot. Few mynas were also playing around.

After they changed the tyre, we started for resort. On our way we saw a Gaur near a water hole.

Gaur Bank Myna
Reaching Bandhavgarh

We had a hotel named Baghela Resort booked in Bandhavgarh, room was non ac, with a air cooler. And it was enough for the time. As most of the time weather was cloudy. and at night it is quite cold.

Reached there by 2 pm. Had rice, dal for lunch at resort.

In evening we set out for Museum. Saw a lot of birds on the way. A lot of parrots were flying around. Saw the blue bird again. An elephant was tied far away in the jungle.

Lapwing at Bandhavgarh Elephant Hoopoe in Bandhavgarh
Bird Langur Red-headed Parakeet
We went to the Museum. It opens by 6 pm. We weren’t there for long though. It only had few models and informations about the animals there.

We had dinner at our resort by 9:30. They took quite a lot of time to cook. Had to sleep early.

Day 2

The resort arranged for car for our trips. For two days, it was about 5k per day for car.

Reaching Amarkantak

We started for Amarkantak early in the morning at 5 am. Saw deers and birds on the way. There was a pond full of lotus on the way, saw a few birds there.

Bird Lotus
Amarkantak Sightseeing

Reached Amarkantak in 3 hours. Visited Narmada Temple at first. The Narmada river source is situated inside the temple.

Main Narmada Temple
Then we visited the old Amarkantak group of temples. They are a few temples from 8th century build around a water tank called Surya Kunda.

Old Amarkantak Temple Old Amarkantak Temple Old Amarkantak Temple
Then we went to the Lakshmi Shree Yantra Temple. This is also a quite old temple. They don’t let people go inside. We had to walk up on the high ground to see inside.

Lakshmi Shree Yantram Temple, Amarkantak Carvings at Lakshmi Shree Yantram Temple, Amarkantak Inside Lakshmi Shree Yantram Temple, Amarkantak
Next we visited Shon-Bhadra Source.There was a lot of monkeys and langurs all around. We bought some nuts and gave them.

Monkeys at Shon-Bhadra Source, Amarkantak Langoors at Shon-Bhadra Source, Amarkantak
Shon and Bhadra are actually 2 different rivers originated in not more than 5 meters distance and then they joins as Shon-Bhadra in about 5 more meters far. Concrete water tanks have been built over the both sources and meeting point. So realized that source of rain water river is not much fun to see.

Then we did some boating in the Narmada, from the park. Saw a blue swallow on the boat.

Wire Tailed Swallow at Narmada Little Grebe at Narmada
Next we visited Kapil-Dhara Falls. The stream was very thin. As it would have been same, we didn’t go down to Doodh-Dhara Falls, which is at 1 km descent.

Drongo near Kapildhara Falls Kapildhara Falls
After lunch near Kapil-Dhara falls we went to Jain Temple. The temple is still under construction.

Models at Jain Temple, Amarkantak Work in progress at Jain Temple, Amarkantak Jain Temple, Amarkantak Idol at Jain Temple, Amarkantak
Then we visited Jaleswar Temple. And it started to rain just we finished pouring water on Shiva idol.

Returning to Bandhavgarh

We spotted few spotted deers, a lot of different kinds of birds, and two different kinds of jackals on our way back.

Neelkantha or Indian Roller Fox Red-Naped Ibis
We returned to our resort by evening. Others of our group had reached Bandhavgarh by then.

Day 3

We woke up by 4:30 am. Our jeep was already waiting. And safari was alwady booked online for Tala zone. Reached forest by 5:30. We 4 people started in a Jeep. We needed to produce our Identities at security.


First we started for tigers. We took C route. First area was territory of a female tiger named Sita with her 3 cubs. Before reaching the tiger’s home, we saw a few deers, a peahen and a hawk. 2 elephants were there on the way too. They were chained.

Then we reached the tiger’s place. The mama tiger was sitting there. A lot of jeep was already waiting there for a clear sight. We stayed there for a while. The cubs also came after a while.

Tiger Tiger Elephant
Then we started for the next tiger’s territory. We didn’t see her though. From there we got news that tiger is visible in another area. We went to that area. Saw it trough the grasses, the tiger was sleeping.


Chitals or Indian Spotted Deers were literally everywhere. Saw few Sambar Deers too at one place.

Sambar Deer Indian Spotted Deer

But on way we saw a lot of Peacocks. A few of them were even raising their tails and screaming very loud and harshly.

Peacock at Bandhavgarh Peacock at Bandhavgarh Peacock at Bandhavgarh
Peacock at Bandhavgarh Peacock at Bandhavgarh

Apart from peacocks saw a lot of beautiful birds.

Kingfisher in Bandhavgarh Shikra in Bandhavgarh Vultures in Bandhavgarh
A Rocket-Tailed Drongo flew away from front of our car and saw on a tree.

Rocket Tailed Drongo
When we were just passing by, our guide suddenly said, that’s a Nightjar. We were searching everywhere for about 2 min. Until we found it just in front of us, sitting still on the ground.

Saw a Paradise Fly-Catcher too. But could not shoot it.

Saw the blue bird again few times. And got to know that it’s called Neelkantha or Indian Roller bird.


After our tiger sightings, we went for Sheshshaiya. On our way we saw ghost tree, a white gum tree, which glows at night. Then old stable and courthouse.

Ghost gum tree Old Courthouse near Sheshshaiya Old Stable near Sheshshaiya
Sheshshaiya is an ancient temple on a hill inside the national park. Our guide first checked out the place before letting us in, because sometimes tigers come there. The place looked very serene and pristine. There was 3 Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva statues and a small pond full of algae. The Brahma statue had broken when a tree fell on it, only the leg is visible. The exact timeline of these statues is still unknown.

Sheshshaiya Idol at Sheshshaiya About Sheshshaiya Broken Brahma statue at Sheshshaiya
Water Holes

On our way back we stopped at a water hole. A lot of sambars, chitals, monkeys, birds were there. Our guide said those water hole are artificially kept alive in summer.

Sambar Heron Sambar and Chital
Next we stopped at another water hole. There was a few chitals, turtles, birds, peacocks.

Turtles Chital
Saw a stork on meadow. The Bandhavgarh fort was also visible from there. Then stopped at a place to shoot some birds. But could hardly shoot any.

Lesser adjutant in Bandhavgarh Green Beeeater in Bandhavgarh Dove in Bandhavgarh

We returned to resort by 10 am. Took bath, had lunch, checked out and Started for Jabalpur.

It took about 4 hours to reach there. By 6 pm we reached Bheraghat.

Took a 1 hour boat ride for Marble Rock first, as it closes by 7 pm.

Then went for Dhuandhar falls.

Marble Rock, Jabalpur Marble Rock, Jabalpur
We reached Jabalpur railway station by 8:30. Had our train, Shaktipunj Express to Howrah at 11 pm.

We reached Howrah on 4 May morning 4:30 am. Train was almost on time this time.

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