A Three Week Adventure in Eight Places

Old Nov 3rd, 2016, 01:25 PM
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A Three Week Adventure in Eight Places

I’ve been interested in Japan ever since I’d written a report on kabuki in the 8th grade. My husband Fred has been uninterested in Japan ever since putting into port there a dozen times during the Viet Nam War (he was the ship’s doc). Last year I littered the house with colorful travel books on Japan and we watched TV programs on Japan. It was an NHK program on the Spring Takayama Festival that won him over. We were a go.

Once we decided on the places we wanted to visit, the hard work/fun of itinerary planning began. I am forever grateful for the help so many Fodors posters offered (Kavey,kya, hawaiiantraveler,fromDC,Kathie, Reading54,filmwil,Mrwunfl,rhkkmk and others).
This led to the following itinerary:
4 days Tokyo
2 days Takayama
3 days Kanazawa
2 days Nara
5 days Kyoto
2 days Koyasan
1 day Hiroshima
1 day Miyajima
2 days Tokyo

We would rather see a few things at a leisurely pace than hurriedly see every praised temple and shrine. And we are mindful of energy conservation, DH is 78 1/2 and I am 71. We particularly wanted to experience how life is lived and something of the traditional arts.

We used miles to book BC seats on ANA. I began booking hotels/ryokans four months out. I bought JR 21 day passes (actually vouchers that you redeem for passes once in Japan) three months ahead. I made reservations for kaiseki meals two months in advance.

Day 1 Tuesday October 4th
Much of the four days in Tokyo were lost in transition. The heat (mid to high 80s) and high humidity along with unremitting jet lag dimmed my appreciation of aspects of what I saw and experienced. Upon arrival at Haneda we got yen from an ATM then took a taxi to our hotel.

At Tokyo Station we exchanged our vouchers for the 21 day JR pass. The station is HUGE. The crowds more bustling than at Macy's flagship Manhattan store the day after Christmas. Several things struck me on the train besides the hustle bustle. They are immaculate, you could just about eat off the floor. Not even scuff marks. Passengers quietly attend to their cellphones, earbuds in place.

We stored our luggage and headed for the famous fish market. Lots of vendors catering to tourists outside the market itself. Admission to the wholesale area didn't open until 9, if you’d missed the 5 am opening. By 9 am there was nothing much to see. I guess the guide books are right; get there at 5 am to see the auction action.

From the fish market we ambled to the Ginza district. The ladies who lunch were out in force and beautifully appointed. Amid the Chanel, Dior, Celine and similar haute couture houses we found a lunch spot that had the blessed benefit of air conditioning.

We chose Hotel Nawa based on good reviews reviews about location from Trip Advisor. The room was of decent size with the usual appointments. The toilet deserves comment. The seat was heated. I could chose to deliver a douche anterior or posterior. I could press a button to create a toilet flush sound to disguise any personal noise I might make on the can. Enough potty talk. After a shower and nap we had dinner in the hotel dining room. Not recommended.

Day 2
We are just getting the hang of the train system. And I must ask the people ask the desk for more specific information on connections. We headed out for the Tokyo National Museum. The museum is housed in a graceful traditional building. Exhibits are well displayed and marked. I liked the display of kimonos; the tiny 11th C tea pot charmed me. From the nearby Starbucks we refilled our tanks and enjoyed watching the small children play.

From the museum area it looked possible to walk to the Yanaka area. Our mifi didn't help . No one around could help, so we gave up after an hour. In other places, strangers were wonderfully helpful but not at this juncture. We ate dinner within two blocks of our hotel at a place that was busy. It was busy because it was really good. We weren’t yet organized enough to bring business cards along or I’d given one in order to get a card with the name of the cafe on it.

Day 3
We walked the tree lined path to Meiji-Jingu Shrine. I enjoyed seeing so many women wearing lovely kimonos as they made their way to the Shinto shrine. I learned that this Emperor adopted Western ways including the appreciation and collection of fine French wines. The shrine was not as elaborate as I had expected, still it was a handsome structure. By the time we walked back along the forested the shrine path, it was quite hot and muggy. We crossed the street and walked one block to the left to Takeshita-dori bazaar. Loads of school girls were evaluating the teen fashions on offer. The school boys were taking goofy photos and buying snacks. In the evening we headed for the lights of Shinjuku area .What fun to see all the neon signs, buildings lit up, people lit up. It was Times Square to the tenth power. I loved the vibrancy, the kenetic energy.
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Old Nov 3rd, 2016, 02:23 PM
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Loving your report, Robbie. It sounds like you and Fred had a great time in Japan!
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Old Nov 3rd, 2016, 04:05 PM
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Thanks Kathie. It was a memorable trip.
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Old Nov 3rd, 2016, 04:41 PM
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Welcome back! I'm glad that you thought my input helpful and had a memorable trip.
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Old Nov 3rd, 2016, 04:48 PM
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Great start- enjoying so far.
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Old Nov 4th, 2016, 08:22 AM
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I'm enjoying your report too. Thank you for taking the time to share it with us.
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Old Nov 4th, 2016, 08:36 AM
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right about now is when the mugginess and heat start to abide in Japan....beginning of November lol. Great start! Looking forward to the rest of your report.

Aloha!
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Old Nov 4th, 2016, 03:39 PM
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Thanks tripplanner.
Day 4 Tokyo
Tokyo requires a lot of walking. My favorite walks happened today. We made our way to Asakusa, I fell in love with the classical architecture of the buildings. Fred and I walked and walked the commercial and residential streets soaking up the traditional ambience and slow pace. We "did the shops" at Kaminari Gate, it was recommended for souvenirs. Tacky stuff. We trained it to Midtown area. The building architecture was astounding, futuristic in a pleasing way. The shapes and angles of the buildings were so interesting to this Westerner's eye, Gauidi’s magnificent structures excepting.

After lunch we headed back to the hotel. We needed to pack our luggage for forwarding to our next hotel in Takayama. We didn’t know how necessary this forwarding would be until we did it. We were traveling with two small suitcases (22” just bigger than carry on). I’d researched a neighborhood cafe for dinner and we spent too long looking for it. Finally found some place else near our hotel and it was our best dinner. All locals, Tengu Sakarya Suidabasha.

Day 5 Takayama
Upon check out from the Nawa in Tokyo, I could' t find my room key card. They were going to charge us $20 for the lost card. So I checked another compartment of my purse and there she be. I don’t know if this is common practice at Japanese hotels but be mindful of your card.

The scenery on the second leg of this journey from Nagoya to Takayama was spectacular. Clear blue river below, a lush rain forest above. Right on time the shuttle from Takayama Kanto Hotel picked us up at the train station and delivered us to our mountain top hotel. Our room is large and stylist with futon bedding, shoes left in the foyer.This was our first ryokan.

After settling in, we took the shuttle into town to have a look around. The town was humming. Hanging lanterns announced the forthcoming festival. We were drawn to a tiny, dark restaurant down a back alley and I had the most tender beef of my life. It really did melt in my mouth like butter. No name outside the place and unable to make clear my wish for a business card from the owner.

Day 6 Takayama
The festival had been postponed from 9 am until 1 due to rain. It stopped raining at 8:30 but I guess a decision needed to be made early in the morning. We ate a huge breakfast at the hotel (included) and then went wandering in town. The streets were crowded with camera toting Japanese locals and tourists.

A little before 1:00 a huge float emerged from its storehouse and was wheeled onto the parade street by a group of ceremonially clad men. Pretty soon other spectacular floats with shiny metal and ornate wood carvings appeared from other special garages. Finally all eleven floats, representing different neighborhoods, were lined up and began their journey along the parade route. These elaborate structures are about 21/2 storeys tall, some with extatic children on the uppermost tier. Festival goers left their customary restraint back at the entrance, we were all drunk with excitement. In some places the crowds were so thick it was hard to get a view of the action. The food stalls went on for blocks in all directions.

By late afternoon we needed a place to sit and relax. Down a small road away from the festival, we parked ourselves at a sake tasting bar. Nearby we filed up on some tasty ramen noodles. Thoroughly exhausted, we headed back to the hotel. Next day we learned to our regret that the floats as they paraded at night were even more stunning.
Nonetheless, I loved what we did experience.

Day 7 Kanazawa
We left Takayama with our small suitcases, having decided that it was not a hassle to take them on trains. The Takayama station has artifacts displayed in glass cases on the walls, worthy of a museum room.

The Kanazawa Station was a big surprise. It features a huge steel dome above the entire station. A stunning structure. Inside the station It was like a giant department store with an area for each brand/designer. While DH had a cup of joe I toured the shops. Just so happens I found some long courdory pants (they used to be called coulottes) so I bought two pair.

The Kanazawa Tokyu Hotel is a lovely hotel, the most service oriented so far. We walked around the area to get oriented. On a quaint lane around the corner from our hotel we stopped for dinner at Oink Oink a pork brasserie...They serve a great variety of pork dishes. The ones Fred and I shared were delicious.

Day 8 Kanazawa
The weather was cool, perfect for our day of walking. We made our way to the
Nagamachi Bukeyashiki District, a traditional area where samari and their families lived. I liked the old world feeling, the wooden houses, narrow lanes with waterways here and there. From there we made our way to the Oyama Jinja Shrine. Perhaps I have
Insufficiently prepared myself to appreciate the shrines we have visited but this shrine also did not have much appeal for me.

Our stroll to Kenrokuenshita Gardens was past the Castle Park and a museum or two. The gardens are spacious; sculptured garden areas are interspersed with ponds, statuary, a waterfall. The gardens radiate serenity. We stopped for a cold beer lakeside to take in the peaceful beauty all around.
DH Googled a ramen noodle shop nearby and off we went. We never did find the place. By this time we were really hungry and tired so we hoped on the loop bus and went back to our hotel area for lunch and a rest.

We walked along a prosperous shopping street where shop windows displayed interesting looking goods.. One that beckoned me was Marrihiyaku Innenntenn. It's a specialty leather goods shop selling tiny coin purses to elegant handbags. The goods are made from deerskin and lacquer. Over time, the saleswoman informed me, the deerskin becomes softer and the lacquer becomes glossier. One of the striking handbags was calling to me so I answered the call. I also picked up some smaller items to give as gifts and souvenirs.
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Old Nov 5th, 2016, 03:18 AM
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Ohayou Gozaimasu! Loving your report so far! (And you are welcome for any advice I gave that you found helpful. My pleasure).
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Old Nov 5th, 2016, 09:37 AM
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Loving your report, Robbie. We didn't get to Takayama on our first trip, we are saving it for the next trip.
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Old Nov 5th, 2016, 01:00 PM
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Day 9 Kanazawa

Contrary to our expectations, the Ohmicho morning market does not open early. The place was nearly empty at 8:30. So we opted for a sushi breakfast in the market. The sushi and sashimi were outstanding. We sat at the counter and ordered from a menu that was on an IPad type screen. You touch the picture of the items you want and soon they appear before you. The cashier has your bill ready when you are ready to leave. By 9:30 the good people of Kanasawa do their fish and produce shopping. I was impressed by the many sizes and varieties of mushrooms on offer.

From the market we walked to the train station in order to get reserved seats for several upcoming destinations. I enjoyed learning about Daisetsu Teitaro Suzuki at the Suzuki Museum. What a Distinguished Buddhist philosopher....and he loved cats.
Our hotel had made a reservation for us to join a group (required) to visit the Myouryuji Temple. Although the guiding is only in Japanese, we were given a booklet that described in English the places we stopped on the tour. The main shrine room was very ornate and handsome. I wish our English booklet had described the objects in this beautiful room.The temple was built so that defense against any and all enemies was possible. We saw trap doors, secret passageways, hidden floorboards. Such defense was felt necessary because there was said to be an underground connection between this temple and the castle on the hill.

DH begged off from going to Tea house Kaikaro for a geisha evening performance. I arrived early enough to walk around the tea house district (Higashi-Chaya-gai). Old wooden houses and narrow lanes gave the area its old world atmosphere.
I was eager to see geishas dance so I bought front row seats. The owner of this tea house served as the master of ceremonies. Her patter was amusing and informative. The "geisha" performances were done by men in full regalia. One man was dressed as a geisha and a second kimonoed man played an instrument. The newspaper ad said we would see actual geishas. When I got home, (I learned from a friend who lived in Japan that transvestite men often perform in these shows.) Other acts were interesting; drummers, a drinking game in which the loser must drink a cup of sake all at once.

Based on top reviews from Trip Advisor we booked dinner at Prat Home Kanazawa Kitchen. In our email exchange they said we needed to be there on time, reservations were tight. When we arrived we were the only patrons in the small, dark place. When we left we were the only patrons in the small, dark place. Maybe there is another cafe with the identical name in town but this place did not serve us a meal raved about on TA.

Day 10 Nara

It was about a three hour train ride from Kanazawa to Nara. As usual we booked reserved seats. This is easily done at any train station. The reserved section seemed to have space in the back of each car for luggage on the floor. This was a relief, Fred did’t have to hoist bags overhead. The Nikko Nara Hotel is adjacent to the train station. We walked around the area and had some satisfying Chinese food for dinner.

Day 11 Nara

This was our day to be wowed by the many World Heritage sites. The Todaiji Temple was a splendid structure housing the peaceful seated Buddha, said to be the largest Buddha image in the world. I thought the Buddhas in Myanmar and a couple in Thailand were bigger/taller (Phuket) but I don't travel with multiple yard sticks. The parklike grounds were filled with friendly wild deer begging for snacks. The groups of small school children squealed with a mixture of glee and fear as deer approached them.

After lunch and a nap we ventured to Toshodaiji Temple. Less striking than the first temple t,he grounds were elegant and soothing and well worth a wander. By the time we got to Yakushiji Temple it was two minutes before closing we were told. No more tickets the ticket lady gestured. Like kindnesses shown us everywhere, she had the guards let us in without tickets. I found this temple least inspiring of the three. Besides it being temple closing time, DH was tempted out.

We had a fine Chinese dinner in the Nikko Nara restaurant. Then off to our room to read. May as well mention some Japan related reading I did before this trip.
A Geek in Japan by Hector Garcia was very helpful in understanding Japanese customs and world view. Enjoyable background pieces were The Tale of Gengi by Murasaki Shikibu and A Tale for the Time Being by Ruth Ozeki. I got bored with The Lady and the Monk by Pico Iyer and put it down midway through.
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Old Nov 5th, 2016, 02:00 PM
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Thank you for writing up your trip stories to share with us.
Enjoyed reading it.
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Old Nov 5th, 2016, 03:31 PM
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I did not make it to Kanazawa on my trip to Japan, but your description of the temples, gardens, wooden buildings, and geishas remind me of Kyoto. Did you find similarities between the two cities?

By the way, the Todaiji Buddha is the largest bronze Buddha statue, so it may well be that the others you saw were larger; they probably weren't cast in bronze.
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Old Nov 5th, 2016, 08:29 PM
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Thank you for posting trip report.
It sounds like you had a great time.
Looking forward to hearing more
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Old Nov 6th, 2016, 02:42 AM
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Kathie - Takayama is one of the greatest highlights of all the cities we have visited thus far during our 3 weeks in Japan with one week to go. We visited the Hida Folk Village which had brilliant fall colors today and which was well worth the visit. Robbie - did you make it there? Besides the scenic streets in town, there is a trail just on the outskirts of town which passes through sacred cemetery grounds and many temples. Robbie - floats and the festival must have been fantastic! Wish we could have seen them.

Like you, we are finding it very interesting that businesses in Japan tend to open late and close early. When we got to the market in Kanazawa, barely anything was open. Many businesses don't open their doors till 9-10 am and we are finding that the towns close up by 5:00 pm, with restaurants opening around 6:00. This may be due to the cold weather though, as most people want to get off the streets when the temperature drops.

Looking forward to the rest of your report Robbie.
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Old Nov 6th, 2016, 06:44 AM
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Yes, tripplanner there were some similiarities between Kanazawa and Kyoto as you noted. The differences, to me, are in scale and access. Kanazawa is smaller and feels like a large town. Kyoto feels like a big city with various districts like Tokyo. Kanazawa is a walking city and has good bus transportation. In Kyoto, we found it best to take taxis.
Thank you for your clarification about the Buddha being cast in bronze.

Dgunbug we didn't get to Hida Folk Village. I would have liked a third day in Takayama to see the town. Our time there was centered around the festival. The festival was one of the highlights of our trip.

Day 11 Kyoto
The train ride from Nara to Kyoto was less than an hour. As anticipated, our room was not ready at the Mume Boutique Hotel, so we stowed our luggage and walked around the neighborhood. The area is lovely with the Shirakawa River nearby. I liked the traditional feel of the area. Our room was stunning, the furnishings so tasteful, the terrace refreshing. Every amenity and convenience at our fingertips. This is the suite we “had” to take for one night until our requested room “Butterfly” became available for the next four nights. After their afternoon wine service, we went to a local sushi place the hotel suggested. Forgot name, food very good and reasonable.

Day 12 Kyoto
After an ample breakfast at the hotel we went to the home and studio of Shotei Ibata, one of Japan's most renowned calligraphers. I had researched him and Mume Hotel set up the appointment. We chatted a while about his long career, his shows in the U.S. and other countries, and the tools of his craft: brushes, papers, inks. He took calligraphy from the confines of traditional forms to experimentation with personal expression. After a satisfying conversation and tea, we were escorted into his studio so he could demonstrate how he works. He produces masterful art and clearly takes great pride in his work. A small piece, with the character signifying dream, intrigued us, so we bought it.

The approach to Kiyomizu-dera Temple involved a long, gradual ascent up a hill, accompanied by what seemed like all visitors to Kyoto. I think in the future we'll plan to arrive at a major site by 9:00 am and see if we might beat the crowds. The temple itself was graceful and interesting. We walked for at least ten minutes in the dark, holding on to a rope with thick balls interspersed on the rope. This, I understand, was to promote internal reflection and meditation. The total darkness was making my walking hesitant and the guy behind me was urging me forward by allowing little personal spaceI. I did not find this conducive the meditation.

We splurged on a kaiseki lunch at Roan Kukunoi. Owner chef Yoshihiro Marata does magic with food. Each of the eight courses was beyond delicious, was refined and artistically presented. The place only seats 18; we had reserved seats at the counter (weeks in advance) so we could watch the courses being prepared. This was a delightful was to spend a couple of hours.

We came back to our room to rest from our indulgence. We were not able to secure the Butterfly room for all five nights so they asked if they could put us in another room for the first night. The first room (which we learned next day) was their suite and was opulent beyond words. We'd sat on the terrace having coffee in the morning before breakfast. When we were relocated to the Butterfly room it was quite a demotion, half the size, less exquisitely decorated, still very nice.

We only wanted a couple of pieces of sashimi for dinner and one of our hosts recommended a sushi place, lively, only counter seating. Some people eat to live and then there folks like us. So we also ordered beautifully grilled octopus and sautéd abalone.

Then we had a bit of a scare. Fred was feeling unwell. His pulse was too low. He's a cardiac guy with serious issues. He thought his pacemaker was not working properly. After some rest, he felt better and all signs returned to normal.

Day 13 Kyoto

Today DH awoke with a nasty head cold so we would have to do only as much as his cold allowed. The Nijo-jo Castle was as magnificent outside as inside. I was awed by the painting and carving on the inside of the entry gates, bold yet delicate.

We took a taxi to Sabido, the one specialty shop in town that carries that unusual leather of deerskin and lacquer. I regretted not buying more in Kanazawa so here was my second chance. I got a striking wallet for my closest friend who is turning 70 and a pretty glass case for another dear friend who turns 82 next month.

By this time we grabbed some lunch and headed back to the room. I hadn't expected Fred to take a four hour nap but he needed it and I got a reprieve from his coughing and sneezing. The Mume directed us to Gion Tanto for dinner. They specialize in okinomejaki, a grilled pancake with your selected meats or seafood on top. A tasty and fun meal.
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Old Nov 6th, 2016, 07:02 AM
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Sorry Fred caught a cold - that's miserable when you are traveling.

We loved the Suzuki Museum. It was pouring rain when we were there, which made the reflections in the various pools even more mesmerizing.

I'm enjoying your trip!
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Old Nov 6th, 2016, 07:08 AM
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tripplanner001, Kanazawa is known as Little Kyoto.

Am enjoying your TR Robbietravels, thanks.
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Old Nov 6th, 2016, 02:49 PM
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Sorry Fred was under the weather. It's especially scary to be out of the country and experience major health issues. Thankfully the heart was not a problem.
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Old Nov 7th, 2016, 01:45 PM
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Excellent trip report! I'm enjoying reading about your experiences, and reliving our trips each of the past two years. Japan exceeded our expectations in almost every respect. Hope Fred felt better quickly and you enjoyed the rest of your trip!
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