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3 Weeks Thailand Itinerary - Advice Sought

3 Weeks Thailand Itinerary - Advice Sought

Old Aug 11th, 2017, 10:52 PM
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3 Weeks Thailand Itinerary - Advice Sought

Recently booked flights to Thailand (into and out of Bangkok). We have exactly 21 nights on the ground, and we're travelling end of December with most of the trip falling in January.

This will be our second trip to Thailand but on the first one we only went to Phuket, even though we're not really beach people, we were travelling with friends and it was their choice. It was fine, and we did love the canoe excursion inside one of the limestone karsts off the coast! As we're not into beaches, we're not planning to include any for this trip.

A little about us, we're mid-forties British couple, we love city breaks, cultural and historical sites, and wildlife / natural landscapes. I have a slight addiction to food markets! We are happy to travel via plane, train or self-drive but would prefer to avoid bus/ coach where possible, those make me travel sick. I have some mobility issues so we can't do activities which involve strenuous hiking, and while we will walk to explore, we can't do as much per day as many travellers. I'm not great at handling the heat, so we've chosen this as the coolest time of year but appreciate it will still be pretty hot, so we'll hope to sight see during earlier morning or late afternoon, and relax in the shade or aircon when the day is at its hottest. We know we won't be able to do that everywhere... We are mid to high budget, and given the prices in Thailand, we'll likely go for higher end rather here, since it's so affordable.

So far I have 3 nights in Bangkok at the start, and another 3 nights there at the end. (We've never been so there's a lot I want to see, not only within Bangkok but in the vicinity).

I also have a 2 night booking at Elephant Hills in Khao Sok National Park.

Day 1 Flight from UK, lands next day
Day 2 Bangkok
Day 3 Bangkok
Day 4 Bangkok
Day 5
Day 6
Day 7
Day 8
Day 9
Day 10
Day 11
Day 12 Khao Sok National Park Elephant Hills (transfer in is early morning)
Day 13 Khao Sok National Park Rainforest Camp
Day 14 (transfer out of park will be afternoon)
Day 15
Day 16
Day 17
Day 18
Day 19
Day 20 Bangkok
Day 21 Bangkok
Day 22 Bangkok
Day 23 Flight back to UK

That leaves me a 7 night and 6 night gap on either side of Khao Sok.

I want to go north for the 7 night block, Chang Mai, Chang Rai, maybe Doi An and Chang Khong?

For the other 6 night block I am looking at Khao Yai National Park and Ayutthaya.

Would welcome advice and thoughts on how best to organise these two blocks?

On day 12 we need to be at one of the Elephant Hills transfer points first thing in the morning - these are Phuket (airport or town), Surat Thani (airport or town), Khao Lak, Phang Nga, Krabi, Koh Samui. Likewise, the transfer back out is to our pick of these points.

Also looking for your recommendations for particular hotels, restaurants, cookery schools, activities and excursions, things we should ensure we visit, within these destinations.

Thank you so much,
Kavey
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Old Aug 12th, 2017, 04:04 AM
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Bangkok hotels - I would be inclined to stay at two different properties. The Peninsula is one of the best on the river and provides easy access to many of the main sights by boat. SO Sofitel near Lumpini Park would be a very nice contrast.

Chiang Mai - lots of boutique type hotels in the Old City. Check out booking.com. Alternatively, Four Seasons have a place there but it is way out of town. We had a few days at https://www.thaicookeryschool.com and stayed at Chef Sompons house whilst there.

Chiang Rai - is a pleasant and much smaller city than CM. The White Temple and the Black House are worth a visit. Some photos on our blog @ https://accidentalnomads.com/2015/10...ack-and-white/ . If you can make it for a Saturday night the walking street market is excellent and far superior to anything in CM.

I wouldn't bother with Chiang Khong. It is just a border town and not that interesting.
Some go just to cross and set foot in Laos, but again, not worth the effort.

If you are up for driving, rent a car and drive the Mai Hong Sorn loop to see something of the mountains, minority people's villages. MHS, Pai, Soppong, Mai Sariang and maybe Doi Inthanon NP, although the latter could be done as a day trip from CM. Chiang Dao is another option. Chiang Dao nest is a pleasant place to stay. Some nice caves and temples nearby.

From Chiang Mai you could fly direct to Phuket with Air Asia - other locations such as Khao Lak etc. would probably require a change in Bangkok.

Ayuthaya can be done as a day or overnight trip from Bangkok by train or car. Train is a nice way to go. Alternatively, rent a car and go on to Kanchanaburi and maybe Erawan NP.

Khao Yai if found to be unexciting. A few nice waterfalls and lots of monkeys but other wildlife viewing would be difficult without camping deep into the park. Avoid at the weekend when it gets very busy.

Khao Sok is impressive. Make sure to take a trip on the big lake there. Some great karst scenery.
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Old Aug 12th, 2017, 05:27 AM
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I would 2nd the peninsula in bangkok. I will be there over new years.

I also love the anantara riverside. the st. regis is fabulous too. any of the 5* hotels will outperform your expectations.

in khao lak we prefer the jw Marriott. in krabi we favor the Amari vogue.

2 years ago we stayed at the le meridian in chiang mai.

in the golden triangle we stayed at the anantara-- they have elephants too.

food is king in Bangkok---any cuisine you might want. read some of my trip reports.
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Old Aug 12th, 2017, 06:21 AM
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Thank you so much Crellston and Rhkkmk. (Will go find trip reports, ta!)

We are definitely planning on two different hotels for the two stints in Bangkok. I'm thinking I'd like the area just by south border of Lumpini park for the first of the two stays, I've got a hold on a few places including Como Metropolitan, Dusit Thani and some others. For the second stay, I thought the river would be good, as we definitely want to pootle around both the sights and some of the markets / street food areas a friend mentioned.

For Chiang Mai I'm getting the feel from my reading that we'd much prefer to be in or very near the old town, so Four Seasons is out if it's a way aways.

I'm struggling to work out how many nights for CM, CR and anywhere else. I thought 3-4 in CM, 1-2 in CR and then that leaves a few for elsewhere. But if it makes more sense, I can split all 7 nights between CM and CR and do everything else as day trips from one or other?

We are happy to self-drive to visit some of the national parks, mountains and minority peoples' villages - would that work as a day trip (out of CM or CR) or should we look at at least one overnight along the route?

Ayuthaya I was thinking to do as a single overnight, but good to know it would work as a day trip. My thinking to overnight was that we could get up early and see as much as possible before the worst heat of the day...?

Incidentally, most people (and posts I've read) tell me that it's not worth visiting both Sukothai and Ayuthaya, and that of the two Ayuthaya is the best choice. Does everyone agree?

For Khao Yai, a friend mentioned the spectacle of seeing the bats come out of their caves at sunset, and that sounded utterly enthralling to me, and for that alone I'm keen to include the park on my itinerary. I'll need to investigate where we stay and whether it's worth more than one or two nights.

At Khao Sok I really wanted a three night package but these are no longer being offered after October (at least that's what I was told), so I've gone for the standard Elephant Hills Jungle Lake package which includes one night in the tented jungle camp and another in the floating camp right on the lake. Activities seem to include both forest and lake, and as best I could research, this is one of the places to interact with elephants rescued from elsewhere, and has received some awards for animal welfare.
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Old Aug 12th, 2017, 07:53 AM
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I am one to move about a bit but when I first went to Thailand I spent my first six nights and last two in Bangkok. That was a good plan.

You sh/could add Siem Reap, Cambodia, for Angkor Wat. I hired a car & guide. One morning the temps were in the 70s F and the driver suggested I get a jacket because it was so cold. That was a clue about the heat that was to come and why going to the hotel pool mid-day was such a good idea.

You could do a better job than I did of choosing trains for a day trip to Ayutthaya. The ride up was hot and crowded and the return was on a prisoner train. My visit there involved a good bit of riding around in a tuk tuk that I hired at the station. The sun & heat was tough and no pool break.

I don't recommend the Sheraton in CM. My room was gloomy and others had the same experience, and not a good location.
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Old Aug 12th, 2017, 01:21 PM
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In Chiang Rai we did a cooking class with Cook Thai Yourself. It was a fabulous day at the countryside home of the principal (name escapes me), included a market visit and a tea plantation stop. A great guide in the area is Jermsak, try a ride down the river on a bamboo raft while his wife prepares lunch on a charcoal burner.
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Old Aug 14th, 2017, 02:04 AM
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For the 7 nights in the north, how does the following sound?

2 nts Chiang Rai (flight from BKK, so afternoon of arrival + full day, pick up rental car early on departure day)

1 nt for self-drive to include national parks, mountain areas, local villages (to take better part of both days, arriving into CM late afternoon / evening)

4 nights Chiang Mai (arrival late afternoon / evening, departure early morning flight to Surat Thani airport)

Or should I be looking to adjust these durations?
THANKS
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Old Aug 14th, 2017, 06:42 AM
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So, looking at the last 9 nights (of which I've currently allocated the final 3 to Bangkok)!

Would welcome your thoughts on whether I should give 1 or 2 MORE nights to the end stint in Bangkok, allowing me to do a few more day trips from there...? And if so, which day trips? Don't forget I have the 3 nights in Bangkok on our arrival in Thailand too.

We'll be doing this segment of the trip out of the end of the stay at Elephant Hills (Khao Sok National Park) and the package includes a transfer on departure day to any of a range of locations within a few hours reach... and they will finish in Bangkok.

Now we *could* go from there to a single beach location (for 2 nights) as well, or we could put in something else, I need to think what. We aren't really beach people, but then again, the white sandy beaches and limestone karsts are pretty spectacular. Maybe we could do with a brief R&R?

I was thinking max 2 nights for Khao Yai National Park (mainly interested in seeing the bats emerge from the caves at night, but of course will still enjoy the rest).

I'm pretty much of the opinion that I'd rather overnight in Ayuthaya so I can hit it early morning, if possible, rather than in full midday heat...

Am struggling to pull this segment together...

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Old Aug 14th, 2017, 07:53 AM
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I like your idea of an overnight stay in Ayutthaya so you can explore at a "cooler" time of the day. But my #1 recommendation would be to consider a side trip to the temples of Angkor. You can fly from Bangkok to Siem Reap, stay 4 nights (three days) and have the chance to see all of the "major" temples. There are so many temples, you cam't see them all, but I consider Angkor to be one of the wonders of the world. You might take a look at Dawn Rooney's book, Angkor: A Guide to Cambodia's Wondrous Temples to give you a sense of your level of interest in this option. Here is a link to our photos of some of the Angkor temples www.marlandc.com/Angkor-wat

There aren't many day trips from Bangkok that I recommend. There is so much to see and do in Bangkok, you could spend another week there and not run out of things to do, I would recommend visiting the Prasart Museum, right outside of Bangkok, to see a fabulous collection of SE Asian arts. It is a private museum, and they will furnish you with a guide as part of your admission fee. Here is a link to our stay in Bangkok in 2005 and it has a section on the Prasart Museum. www.marlandc.com/Bangkok-2005

Bangkok is my favorite city in the world. Not everyone loves it, but people either seem to love it or they want out as soon as possible. You can make your stay more pleasant by staying along the river: it is slightly less hot, the air is cleaner, and you have ready access to the water taxis.
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Old Aug 14th, 2017, 11:14 AM
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Thank you so much. I do appreciate the suggestion of Angkor Wat, I know a few people have said the same. But I'd really rather give Thailand the full three weeks, and will go to Cambodia (and see more of it) on a separate visit. Likewise, I will one day go to Laos and Vietnam and Burma and many other places, but I do like slow travel in the main. I recently did a 5 day stop in Taiwan ahead of a Hong Kong week and whilst I loved it, I now see I ought to have given Taiwan it's own trip, as there's so much more to see!

Bangkok info very helpful indeed, thank you!
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Old Aug 14th, 2017, 01:05 PM
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As another person who likes slow travel - especially in SE Asia - I can understand and respect your preference.

Enjoy Thailand!
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Old Aug 14th, 2017, 11:59 PM
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For your week in the north, I would suugest picking up rental car from the airport. Traffic is light in CR and a car will be really handy for getting around the main sights like the white Temple and Black House. If you are looking to visit some of the ethnic minority villages, these is better done with a reputable guide. Otherwise you will find it very difficult to visit anything that is not a tourist trap.

The car would also be useful around, but not in, Chiang Mai. Places like Doi Suthep it would help and maybe out to Doi Inthanon. I found these PDF. maps to be really useful and full of ideas
https://www.budget.co.th/WorldClassDrive.aspx

Inside CM city a car is pointless.

If you definitely want to include Khao Yai then I would consider picking up a rental car from Bangkok and driving to Khao Yai, stay a couple of nights. and then drive on to Ayuathya. If you want to avoid the excesses of Bangkok traffic, then you could consider a pick up an drop off from one of the airports.

I think you have enough time in Bangkok but would suggest that you concentrate on identifying what you want to see inside the city and then check that it is enough time for you.

Here is a link to a Guardian article I stumbled across with a few ideas. The major sights such as the Grand Palace etc. are all well documented in guide books. There is even the oft neglected Fodors Destination guide here @ http://www.fodors.com/world/asia/tha...s-to-do/sights

For more off the wall stuff, Travelfish is very good https://www.travelfish.org/country/thailand you may have to dig a little but there is some good info on that site.
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Old Aug 15th, 2017, 05:47 PM
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Hi, I would seriously recommend a trip to Kaeng Krachan National Park and Anthong National Marine Park:

https://www.thetripgoeson.com/single...-National-Park


https://www.thetripgoeson.com/single...-Park-Thailand

Best,
Steve
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Old Aug 15th, 2017, 05:55 PM
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I went to Ayutthara as a day trip from Bangkok, and I really enjoyed it. Upon the recommendation of the concierge at the Marriott, I took the bus both ways. It is quite a schlep, about two hours each way.

In any case, the temples are quite interesting, but the town seemed quite nice for strolling. I wish I had spent a night there so I could get the flavor of the town. I did not see any tour groups when I was there, just some people travelling independently, like myself.

Given your interests in markets and such, I think you will enjoy the town as well as the temples. BTW, be sure and see the huge reclining outdoor Buddha.
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Old Aug 16th, 2017, 01:04 AM
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Thanks Kathie! I could easily fill 5 or 6 weeks in Thailand, so I'm definitely not keen to give up any of the three weeks I do have for attractions in other countries. That's not to say I don't long to visit those too, but they'll have to wait for their own trips!

Crellston, thanks for all the extra information. I'll look into whether we can hire a car from arrival at Chiang Rai airport, to use for some of the CR sightseeing before we leave CR for the mountains/ villages. I'm leaning towards staying within that square old town area, so may not be parking available, will look into that, and maybe choose different accommodation on that basis.

Do you think 2 nights in CR (giving 1.5 days actual time there), followed by 1 night (but most of preceding and following day) for the mountain/ villages drive, and then 4 nights for CM is about right? Or should I be looking at taking one of those CM nights and adding it to either CR or the mountain/ village segment?

Good to know that a guide would be best for the mountain/ village segment. Does one book a guide but use one's own rental car, or am I best forgetting about self-drive and booking a car/ driver guide?

Thanks for tips on Khao Yai / Ayuthaya, trying to plan that bit now.

Both links very helpful, thank you.

Steve, great posts both but as we're still not sure we'll do any beaches at all, and if we do, would just be one or two nights max, I don't think we'd get to Anthong National Marine Park this time. And whilst Kaeng Krachan sounds incredible for wildlife and birding, both of which we love, we don't do camping and I don't think they have any permanent accommodation options available in this park from the sounds of it. We are booked to visit Khao Sok and will also likely visit Khao Yai, and probably one of the national parks in the north too, if we can.

California Lady, great to know that there's more to see in Ayuthaya than the temples, as you say I do love markets, and I will add a note to make sure we see the reclining Buddha.

THANK YOU ALL
Kavita
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Old Aug 17th, 2017, 12:16 AM
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Have posted a new thread for specifics about accommodation/ locations in Khao Yai, in hope of catching attention of additional people who may have been there.
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...i-thailand.cfm
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