Zambia photos and brief report
Nov 27th, 2006, 10:57 PM
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Zambia photos and brief report
Our latest trip was a return to Zambia, with 9 nights in South Luangwa National Park (6 nights Luangwa River Lodge and 3 nights Puku Ridge Tented Camp), followed by 3 nights at Chiawa Camp in the Lower Zambezi National Park. I have posted 60 photos on Kodak Easy Share Gallery use link:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...&y=-m9yuo8
Ruth and I have so much going on in our life right now (more at a later date) that I have no time to write a full trip report. Instead I have jotted down some highlights which may interest fellow Fodorites.
Luangwa River Lodge
Being woken in the middle of the night by Wonky tusk munching at the bush outside our chalet and then peering in the window at us sleep was difficult after that!
First sightings of newborn impala, apparently a good sign that the rains are imminent.
2 lions (brothers) chased away by a family of elephants.
Watching a crocodile trying to swallow impala horns, the body having been dealt with quite easily.
Leopard sighting at night (turned out to be the only sighting we had).
Woken again in the night by 4 dining elephants, plus the sounds of lion just outside camp.
Encounter with game hunters who were planning an easy kill of a male tusker at the crossing regularly used by the herd. We were out with Sean, who owns the lodge and it was thought that the hunters would not do any shooting if we stayed close by. After enjoying a slightly tense sundowner we waited a further hour in the dark, at which point the hunters gave up and drove away.
2 sightings of a pack of 21 wild dogs, a couple of who had just been darted to fit tracking collars as part of a wild dog project.
Superb food, hosting, guiding and accommodation throughout our stay thanks to Sean and his wife Maryann, Marco the magnificent chef, Victor our ever considerate and knowledgeable guide and the rest of the team who made our stay truly memorable.
Puku Ridge Tented Camp
Family of lions sitting on a ridge above the dry river bed. We drove along the bed until we were directly below the pride and I was able to get several good photos.
Live kill 2 lionesses taking down a pregnant impala
Another live kill a hyaena taking a baby impala not 10m from our vehicle. It happened so quickly the impala did not hit the ground. The hyaena caught it by the neck broke it and simply trotted into the bush, carrying its prize.
A python, about 3.5m long; watched it crawl under another vehicle carrying some very nervous looking guests!
Watching the 2 lionesses devouring the impala, right next to the river, where seven crocodiles were drifting ever closer, waiting for their chance. While all this was going on, we were treated to an electrical storm, with forked lightning appearing every few seconds. This is why we keep coming back to Africa!!
Chiawa Camp
Afternoon cruising on the Zambezi, watching the elephants and the prolific bird life. Later, enjoying sundowners on the boat.
Seeing 2 fish eagles being attacked by a dozen or more plovers.
Dinner in the bush, African cuisine described dish by dish so we could decide what to try and what to miss!
A group of 15 dwarf mongoose(s) dashing across the road, causing our driver to brake.
Spotting 3 side-striped jackals, watched them for 10 mins or so until they wandered off into the distance.
Zambezi fishing. I landed a 11lbs tiger fish (see photo evidence!) and a 2lbs moon fish.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...&y=-m9yuo8
Ruth and I have so much going on in our life right now (more at a later date) that I have no time to write a full trip report. Instead I have jotted down some highlights which may interest fellow Fodorites.
Luangwa River Lodge
Being woken in the middle of the night by Wonky tusk munching at the bush outside our chalet and then peering in the window at us sleep was difficult after that!
First sightings of newborn impala, apparently a good sign that the rains are imminent.
2 lions (brothers) chased away by a family of elephants.
Watching a crocodile trying to swallow impala horns, the body having been dealt with quite easily.
Leopard sighting at night (turned out to be the only sighting we had).
Woken again in the night by 4 dining elephants, plus the sounds of lion just outside camp.
Encounter with game hunters who were planning an easy kill of a male tusker at the crossing regularly used by the herd. We were out with Sean, who owns the lodge and it was thought that the hunters would not do any shooting if we stayed close by. After enjoying a slightly tense sundowner we waited a further hour in the dark, at which point the hunters gave up and drove away.
2 sightings of a pack of 21 wild dogs, a couple of who had just been darted to fit tracking collars as part of a wild dog project.
Superb food, hosting, guiding and accommodation throughout our stay thanks to Sean and his wife Maryann, Marco the magnificent chef, Victor our ever considerate and knowledgeable guide and the rest of the team who made our stay truly memorable.
Puku Ridge Tented Camp
Family of lions sitting on a ridge above the dry river bed. We drove along the bed until we were directly below the pride and I was able to get several good photos.
Live kill 2 lionesses taking down a pregnant impala
Another live kill a hyaena taking a baby impala not 10m from our vehicle. It happened so quickly the impala did not hit the ground. The hyaena caught it by the neck broke it and simply trotted into the bush, carrying its prize.
A python, about 3.5m long; watched it crawl under another vehicle carrying some very nervous looking guests!
Watching the 2 lionesses devouring the impala, right next to the river, where seven crocodiles were drifting ever closer, waiting for their chance. While all this was going on, we were treated to an electrical storm, with forked lightning appearing every few seconds. This is why we keep coming back to Africa!!
Chiawa Camp
Afternoon cruising on the Zambezi, watching the elephants and the prolific bird life. Later, enjoying sundowners on the boat.
Seeing 2 fish eagles being attacked by a dozen or more plovers.
Dinner in the bush, African cuisine described dish by dish so we could decide what to try and what to miss!
A group of 15 dwarf mongoose(s) dashing across the road, causing our driver to brake.
Spotting 3 side-striped jackals, watched them for 10 mins or so until they wandered off into the distance.
Zambezi fishing. I landed a 11lbs tiger fish (see photo evidence!) and a 2lbs moon fish.
Nov 28th, 2006, 06:38 AM
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Fantastic highlights and pics Governor -- that fish was quite a catch!
That is tough to run into hunters just waiting to harvest an ele in an area where guides and tourists are busy habituating the animals. I am very troubled when such diverse conflicting activities occur in the same area. Bad enough to see the hunters laying in wait but just imagine the terrible sight if you come along a little while after they have dropped their quarry, yikes.
That is tough to run into hunters just waiting to harvest an ele in an area where guides and tourists are busy habituating the animals. I am very troubled when such diverse conflicting activities occur in the same area. Bad enough to see the hunters laying in wait but just imagine the terrible sight if you come along a little while after they have dropped their quarry, yikes.
Nov 28th, 2006, 07:16 AM
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Predator,
We were both very unhappy with the hunters' situation. It didn't seem much like sport to lie in wait at the top of the riverbank waiting to take pot shots. Sean (Luangwa River Lodge) thought that the hunters were at the end of their alloted stay and were determined to take some trophy back home. Although nothing happened that night, we did hear 4 loud shots early the following morning as we were on our game drive - I guess they got their money's worth.
We were both very unhappy with the hunters' situation. It didn't seem much like sport to lie in wait at the top of the riverbank waiting to take pot shots. Sean (Luangwa River Lodge) thought that the hunters were at the end of their alloted stay and were determined to take some trophy back home. Although nothing happened that night, we did hear 4 loud shots early the following morning as we were on our game drive - I guess they got their money's worth.
Nov 28th, 2006, 07:54 AM
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Let me explain what I was told by Sean. Strictly speaking the hunters were not acting illegally, since they were outside the National Park which is bounded by the Luangwa River. However, there is a gentlemen's agreement whereby no hunting will take place within 5 kms of a lodge. In the instance described by me we were about 2kms from our lodge when we encountered the hunters. I would say that this episode, while disconcerting to us, did not overshadow the thrill of the many wonderful animal sightings we had, nor did it spoil our enjoyment of the splendid food and hospitality of our hosts. I would not want would-be travellers to be "put off" the Park by the experience I have described. South Luangwa is truly a magnificent place.
Nov 28th, 2006, 10:20 AM
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Just to clarify another point on the hunting as I don't want people to be put off by this. Sean, owner manager at LRL said that in all the time he has been there, this is the first time he has encountered hunters in the same area as any guests of his or other camps in the areas. There are 2 hunting camps in the Game Management Area (i.e. across the river from the National Park)one which is 50km north of the main safari camp/lodge area and one which is 20km south (could be the other way around with the distances). So please don't let this put anyone off visiting the area; as you will see from the many other trip reports on S Luangwa, no-one else has experienced this, it really was an isolated incident.
Nov 28th, 2006, 11:04 AM
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From what has been reported in a couple of previous threads this year (people hearing gunshots, hunters trying to lure male lions out of the NP), I'm concerned it's not so isolated an incident. Another black mark for this area in my mind. I'm not altering my plans to visit SLNP in 2008, because it deserves a visit. But it will be to camps where I'm confident the most I will hear/see about hunting activities in adjacent GMAs will be a little talk. If all that's supposed to stop hunting activities right up against the border of a NP is a 'gentleman's agreement', something is seriously wrong.
John
John
Nov 28th, 2006, 04:04 PM
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Phil,
Wonderful pics. Thanks for posting them. You excel at the bird shots like the little owl up front and the carmine bee eater. I also especially liked the suckling warthogs and baboon family. You had to act quickly to get these shots. Good comment (and photo) on "elephant island." You caught a couple of monitors that are often skittering about. Your elephant family was not only happy but beautifully posed. I loved the nursing puku. I've realized how much I like puku and decided I need to see some more of them. Do you have a suggestion on where the best puku viewing is in SL?
John,
When in 08 are you going to SL? I may be there in late July. Do you have thoughts on where the best puku vieiwng is?
In my past SL visits, I did not give puku as much thought, but they seemed common in a variety of areas.
Wonderful pics. Thanks for posting them. You excel at the bird shots like the little owl up front and the carmine bee eater. I also especially liked the suckling warthogs and baboon family. You had to act quickly to get these shots. Good comment (and photo) on "elephant island." You caught a couple of monitors that are often skittering about. Your elephant family was not only happy but beautifully posed. I loved the nursing puku. I've realized how much I like puku and decided I need to see some more of them. Do you have a suggestion on where the best puku viewing is in SL?
John,
When in 08 are you going to SL? I may be there in late July. Do you have thoughts on where the best puku vieiwng is?
In my past SL visits, I did not give puku as much thought, but they seemed common in a variety of areas.
Nov 28th, 2006, 04:44 PM
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Hi GovernorPhil,
Some fantastic photos, and yes, the birds are great. But in case you like to be accurate, I would guess the first bee-eater is not a carmine bee-eater, and the bateleur is another eagle as bateleur have next to no tails. I may be wrong, but it doesn't look right.
Kind regards,
Kaye
Some fantastic photos, and yes, the birds are great. But in case you like to be accurate, I would guess the first bee-eater is not a carmine bee-eater, and the bateleur is another eagle as bateleur have next to no tails. I may be wrong, but it doesn't look right.
Kind regards,
Kaye
Nov 28th, 2006, 05:18 PM
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Lynn,
First half of July, to Kaingo & Mwamba (we've made provisional bookings so far).
I've not thought about puku...but it would be nice to see some. The first and only one I've seen was grazing alone by the Chobe River near our camp in 1996.
John
First half of July, to Kaingo & Mwamba (we've made provisional bookings so far).
I've not thought about puku...but it would be nice to see some. The first and only one I've seen was grazing alone by the Chobe River near our camp in 1996.
John
