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TRIP REPORT: SOUTH AFRICA, May 2007 Madikwe Hills, Kings Camp, Leopard Hills

TRIP REPORT: SOUTH AFRICA, May 2007 Madikwe Hills, Kings Camp, Leopard Hills

Old Jun 14th, 2007, 03:02 PM
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TRIP REPORT: SOUTH AFRICA, May 2007 Madikwe Hills, Kings Camp, Leopard Hills

TRIP REPORT: SOUTH AFRICA, May 2007
Madikwe Hills, Kings Camp, Leopard Hills

On May 10, 2007 I arrived at Madikwe Hills Lodge in the Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa. I had flown in from California, LAX to LHR a 5 hour layover then LHR to JNB (ORT) getting in at 7am morning on 10th. At 10am I was shuttled over to the Federal Air terminal, a nice little terminal at the edge of JNB for Federal Air only. Comfortable, nice restrooms, complimentary drinks. With an hour flight and I was at Madikwe Hills Lodge. I say “I” because my dear Carolyn was not able to make this safari with me. It was ok doing it solo but I’d much rather have her company. The master plan was to spend five nights at Madikwe Hills, then five nights at Kings Camp, and finally five nights at Leopard Hills. These three camps are part of the Seasons In Africa management group. Madikwe Hills (Madikwe Game Reserve) is on the western border of South Africa while Kings Camp and Leopard Hills are on the eastern border (bordering Kruger).

When last March I asked my travel agent to suggest a two week safari for me, soon, like within a month or two, he came back with this three camp idea. These three camps with special five night stay rates and no single supplements. The total for all three camps and all airfare within Africa (but not to/from USA - JNB) was $6,400. This time of year, May, was also sort of the shoulder season for these camps. I have compare these camps to the other safari camps I have been to. And, so that you know where I’m coming from, I have been to two other camps in south Africa, Kruger (a camp?) and MalaMala. I have also been to four other camps in Botswana, Zambia, and Kenya.

Camera kit. A Nikon D200 body with Nikon 70-300 VR lens (105-450mm 35mm film equivalent). A Nikon D40X body with Nikon 18-200 VR lens (27-300mm equivalent). A Canon S2 for videos. Lots of memory cards, two portable hard drives for downloading cards, electronic flash, assorted batteries, chargers, etc. All weighed in at 12 kilos, 26 lbs. This I hand carried all the time when flying, a medium size duffel bag had clothes and other non-essentials. (The cameras, passport and credit cards being the only essentials!!!).

Photos. I’ve put up about 30 photos on my SmugMug, my page. HTTP://tomgraham.smugmug.com. There is a thumbnail photo titled “SAFARI MAY 2007” and that’s them. (Photos from previous safaris also accessed form this banner page). I have not separated them by camp. But they are in camp order and each photo has location noted. All photos were post processed in Photoshop. That is what you have to do with images generated by the D200. Many have been cropped to some extent or another and some I changed the format from 3x2 to 4x3 during cropping. My next project is to take these and more photos and video clips and make a DVD program using ProShow Gold to show family and friends “my safari”.

MADIKWE HILLS. But now back to Madikwe Hills Lodge. To quote the brochure “Eleven ultra-luxurious glass-fronted suites complete with their own verandah and private plunge pools are ingenuously placed amongst the boulders.” And that describes the suites well except to say that they are also huge. Mine, number 2, must have been 20 meters (60 feet) from end to end. The heated floors are a also very nice especially in the bathroom area. By far the most luxurious safari room I have ever had. My only minor complaint with it is that of privacy of the bathing area. The bathing area (not commode) although it can not be seen from the bedroom is wide open so that two persons can not use that area in privacy. If you’d like to see photos of the rooms and common areas, go to their web site. The meals, food was excellent, every meal. Coffee, tea, juice, muffins before the morning game drive. Breakfast after the game drive. Lunch a little later. Coffee, tea, etc before the afternoon game drive. Sundowners with snacks. And dinner after the game drive. All drinks, including alcohol, were included no charge.

Game drives. Madikwe Game Reserve is a fenced in 75,000 hectares of old cattle grazing land set aside in 1991 as a new National Park. It is not a private Reserve. Plans are to continue to expand the Reserve for another 20 years. (The Sabi Sand Reserve is 65,000 hectares, Kruger is 2,300,000 hectares). I asked the first Madikwe ranger I met about driving off road for game drives in the Reserve. They said, sure they could. They forgot to add that; only if the game is one of the big five, and, only if you can see it (no exploration), and, only if the soil is a certain type, and, only if the grass is over a certain height. Game drives were thus on established roads/trails and usually involved a man made water hole or dam. Basically, the game drives were a lot of drive and little game.

The game drive vehicles have three rows of three seats each row plus the seat next to the ranger (total 10 guests). (I never was with more than seven guest total, but that is still too many for photography). The vehicle sides are totally open, there is a canvas roof and a canvas back panel. Normally, I prefer a totally open vehicle but considering the amount of simply driving about we did, this setup was ok. The tracker sits on the front left fender. (There is a photo of the vehicle on their web site). The tracker setting up there can easily be in the way of taken photos and videos. Each vehicle has a radio. And the ranger uses it a lot to coordinate sightings with other Reserve lodge vehicles. I found the amount of radio traffic I heard to be distracting at best and painful at sightings and worse when you are trying to video. The radio is abuzz with requests for the location of the sighting, who is in control of vehicle traffic, who is on standby for viewing, who is leaving, who is on the way, requests for standby, etc. There are 30 lodges in the Reserve, how many vehicles are typically out and about, I don’t know. The morning game drive started at 6:30 am just a quick coffee or tea and got back about 9:30-10am. The afternoon game drive left at 4pm and got back after dark (and sundowners) about 7:30pm. The “dark” portions of the drives were cold and everyone bundled up. The days were nice and warm, sunny, very pleasant.

Game drive highlights. Two sightings of three cheetahs (male brothers) of the four cheetahs in the Reserve. One sighting was on the morning drive and offered good photo opportunities. The other sighting was just at dusk with no light left for photos. (Don’t get me started about these afternoon drives that leave to late for good afternoon sunlight). Wild dogs. Saw two of them one in the late afternoon with just enough light for a couple of good photos and videos. We had to leave them so other vehicles could see. Wild dogs were one on Madikwe Reserve big things, but not so much anymore. There were 40 of them there but around the first of this year (?) all but 8 escaped under the fence. At his time there is now a group of six and a pair (2). I saw only the pair that one time. Saw water buffalo on several occasions, up close around the road. Saw a couple of rhinos a couple of times around a man made water hole and dam. Lions were rather sparse, saw them about once a day, sleeping usually, “flat cats”.

Saw no leopards. They are in the Reserve, they are not sure of the number and are elusive and not seen often. Elephants. Now those are interesting. They have been brought in from Zimbabwe. And they are still very wary of man. Neither of the two rangers I was with wished to get closer than 100 meters of the eles. These eles like to damage vehicles, helicopters, and I think guests have been injured by them either directly or as a result vehicle overturning. It is hard to get much information about it all. But in all of my safaris I have never seen rangers so hesitant about approaching elephants. Which is really too bad, because it is quite a thrill to be in the midst of a breeding herd of eles. Give them perhaps another 30 years.

On my third day of game drives my vehicle became the “carriage” for newlywed/honeymoon couples. One newlywed couple form South Africa, one from England, and one from Germany. Well, it is the month of May, guess that explains it. But there is nothing sillier than a honeymoon couple on their first safari and on their first game drive. Oh, and also with a new video camera. I could go on, but I won’t, let me just say that newlyweds continued to plague me at the next camp and I will never again go on safari in May (or June?). Unless I have a private vehicle.

I thus asked to switch vehicles and in my new vehicle were two American ladies from Florida. Their first time in Africa and first safaris. They asked me what I thought of the game drives. I said ok, but I’ve had better. They said no kidding !!! We just came from Leopard Hills and Kings Camp and the game drives there were great. I had breakfast with them and they told me about several of the other camp game drives that they would never forget. They were doing the exact same camps (and same number of nights at each) as I but had started at Leopard Hills and finishing at Madikwe. I suggested to them that they had done their camps “backwards” and they agreed. For Madikwe Hills, maybe I’d go back in about 30 years after Madikwe Reserve has matured.

End of first part, I’ll post the rest as a reply

Regards – tom

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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 03:32 PM
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Tom

Who'd you fly with and how was it?
On Madikwe I agree, they desperatley need to get more wild dogs there, otherwise its a bit of a bust. I think with ten years or so, it will be considerably better, I think they also need some additional roads.
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 03:33 PM
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TRIP REPORT: SOUTH AFRICA, May 2007
Madikwe Hills, Kings Camp, Leopard Hills
Continued and finished

KINGS CAMP. After the morning game drive at Madikwe Hills Lodge and another great breakfast I boarded a Federal Air plane for the hour flight back to JNB. (FWIW, the fare for this flight round trip was $400). At the Fed Air JNB terminal I got on a smaller plane for a flight into Skukuza Airport Kruger, then on a smaller Fed Air plane flying to the Leopard Hills airstrip, then on a “Chilli Pepper” smaller plane (we’re talking four seats including pilots) for a short hop into the Kings Camp airstrip. Yes, four flights, four different planes. I arrived at Kings Camp 4 pm and after I threw down my duffel bag in my room they took me out to a game drive in progress. I was tired but never miss a game drive and today I switched camps all the way across South Africa without missing a drive. Kings Camp is in the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve established in 1956. Timbavati borders Kruger and is about 10 miles north of the Sabi Sands Reserve. Kings Camps shares traversing rights with several other adjacent private camps. (But not into Sabi Sands).

My room here, number 5, was certainly different from Madikwe Hills Lodge. While Madikwe was opulent, Kings Camp was basic, but very comfortable and had a room air conditioner that was reasonably quiet and kept the room cool. It was about 20F warmer here than at Madikwe. The meals/food were excellent, as good as Madikwe, thanks to the chef here. On one morning game drive we stopped for a surprise bush breakfast buffet that was wonderful. One dinner was in the boma which had staff singing and dancing, very nice. There was a small charge for Cokes, and certain other types of drinks. The camp manger, Warren, was always around and always willing to chat. Same for all of the staff, friendly, helpful, nice to be with.


Game Drives. Wake up call at 5:30am, quick coffee and muffin, out to vehicles at 6am. The vehicles seating was one seat by the ranger, then three rows of three seats. The tracker again sat on the left front fender and again can be in the way of photos. The morning game drive ended about 9:30am and breakfast followed. Afternoon tea at 3:30 then the game drive begins at 4pm. Again because of “winter hours” the sunlight for good photography only lasts until 5pm. This means you have to find your subject within a half an hour. So most of the time you arrive at a very nice sighting of lion cubs and you are half an hour too late, they are in the shade. Not unique at Kings Camp, typical of all camps. Oh, well, someday private vehicles for me. The afternoon game drive included sundowners (best snacks of all camps) and back at camp around 7:30pm. Followed by dinner around 8:30pm. Kings Camp is private property so driving off road is a given. Here again newlywed/honeymooners, two couples, and even sillier than then the other camp. One bride had a new video camera and when ever she used it she talked a running commentary into it. Fine for her video but not for mine. At ever sighting our ranger began with the “gestation period” of the animal. Apparently, I guess, he thought this was most appropriate for newlyweds!!!! He also felt like he had to inform us regarding the sighting events while I just wanted to hear nature happening. This along with still a lot of radio chatter (like Madikwe) drove me almost crazy. But being alone, I am only one of five or seven guests in the vehicle so I mostly said nothing about it. Private vehicle, at Kings Camp you can have one for an additional 2,000 Rand ($280) per day. Worth it if you had a group of four to split it. (More about this on another new posting from me on Fodors).

The highlight of game drives here and probably at all three camps was a leopard kill of an impala. Second evening game drive and we were starting to set up for sundowners when the ranger said “listen, hear that, impala distress calls. Could be a leopard near, let’s go check it out”. We hastily jumped back in, it was just turning dark, and within five minutes by spotlight the tracker had found the leopard stalking impala. The leopard was close, to us and to the impala. He turned off the vehicle lights and within 10 seconds the ranger said “he got it”. Lights back on and there was the leopard on the impalas throat and the impala still standing. The leopard held on and in a few minutes the impala went down, the leopard held on for a couple minutes then let go. The male impala very dead. Within half a minute a hyena rushed into the scene, grabbed the impala and dragged it a few yards away. The leopard backed away and watched. We watched the hyena feed on the impala for a few minutes then left the site to nature. So did the other Kings Camp vehicle that had arrived. The impala, next morning we found it in a tree with the leopard feeding on it, classic leopard scene. Apparently after the hyena had its fill the leopard took the impala up the tree. Photos of the kill, well, I got some good video but only a couple of decent stills. I confess, I was not well prepared with my external flash unit and I was undecided when to set the video camera down and do stills.

The other game drive highlight at Kings Camp was again at night. Our remarkable tracker saw a Serval cat and we turned off road to get closer. Servals are usually skittish but this one was very relaxed and I got several good photos (if you will accept night flash photos). Overall the game drives were good, we usually saw lions but usually they were relaxing in the shade “flat cats”. Saw a couple of more leopards, elephants, buffalo, cheetah once, giraffe, mongoose.

I liked Kings Camp and if considering its daily rate (the least of expensive of the three) I think it is probably the best overall value of all three camps.


LEOPARD HILLS. About a 15 minute flight on the Chilli Pepper Charter, in a little four seater Cessna and I was at Leopard Hills Private Game Reserve. Leopard Hills is one of several private reserves in the Sabi Sands Game reserve next to Kruger. Leopard Hills shares traversing rights with several of them but not some of the bigger ones such as MalaMala and Londolozi.

Meeting me at the air strip was my Leopard Hills ranger Marius. I had heard at King Camp that a cold weather front was coming in and I asked Marius if he had heard the same. He had heard and said it would likely be felt the next day. Then he said, “Just as long as it doesn’t get cloudy”. I asked why he said that and he replied that cloudy skies generally meant little sun light and that means poor light for photos. I could not believe it, here was (finally) a ranger this trip that was a photographer. He opened the Pelican case next to him and there was a Canon 30D with the 100-400mm EF-L lens. We had a grand time the next five days discussing how he should position the vehicle, which way the sun light was coming, shadows, focus, white balance, etc. Plus he was an excellent ranger, period. The equal of any I’ve had anywhere and better than most any three put together. A great host for all his guests, always aware of the guests interests. A remarkable young man. The camp manager Duncan was usually around, eager to listen, eager to chat, very helpful, as was all of the camp staff.

My room number four was a luxurious free-standing bungalow, one of eight rooms. It was bigger than my room at Kings Camp but smaller than the one at Madikwe Hills. A large full length patio, huge windows looking out into the bush and a plunge pool. Just about the right size if you ask me. When that cold front came through, as I mentioned above, the room became cold. Setting the rooms AC/heating unit to heat did nothing but blow cold room air around. I asked the office about fixing it or such and what they did was turn it off and plug in and electric room heater. It was inadequate and my room remained uncomfortably cool for the next two nights. The camps common areas were also uncomfortable the favorite guest areas being around a fireplace. But evening dinner was in a cool dining room, you had to dress warm. The other guest in my vehicle experienced the same discomfort and it is beyond my understanding why when guests are paying many hundreds of dollars per night for a room they can’t have a cozy warm room. And also have a warm dinning room. The meals/food was good but the meals at Kings Camp were better. All drinks including any/all alcohol was included. There is a large library, a separate bungalow, many books, and reference books and we had afternoon tea there.

Game drives. Wake up call at 5:30am, coffee/tea muffins, drive away at 6am. It is still dark and that is good because of those early morning hours of great sun light before coming back in at around 9:30 for breakfast. The evening game drive began officially at 4pm but I and the other guest in my vehicle wanted to leave some earlier and Marius was quite willing to have tea at 3:15pm and get out at 3:30pm. Bless you Marius. Back into camp after sundowners about 7pm. Here again the tracker sat up on the front left fender and you know my dislike of that. Radio traffic was not bad but also not good. With maybe six lodges sharing traversing rights to sightings there was chatter regarding sighting and standbys etc. Again we are on a private reserve so driving off road is a given. For about half of my game drives there were six or seven of us in the vehicle. This is too crowded for me and my camera, five or less is fine.

Leopard Hills leopards. For the 10 game drives I had we saw 6 different leopards. But only two sightings had much action. At dark following a leopard along the trail road the leopard came across a scrub hare which jumped into the brush by the road. The leopard sat and looked into the brush for a couple of minutes then jumped in and caught the squealing hare. The other time was very late afternoon in the river bed we were watching a female leopard and her 10 month old daughter. Marius liked to use a fancy (store bought) bean bag with his camera lens and had it resting on the vehicle door top edge. You guessed it, it fell off, the young leopard heard it and came over to investigate. She picked up the bean bag despite Marius pleadings with her not to. She carried it over to a fallen tree trunk where she and her mom played with it. This went on for several minutes but we moved off to make way for another vehicle to come in. Marius did get his bean bag back the next day, another ranger picked it up after the leopards tired of it. I got it all on video (Canon S2) and Marius made of copy for the files the next day for his “you’re not going to believe this” collection of photos.

Elephants. The first three days especially there were elephants in numbers rarely seen. Those days every game drive required you to drive through two good sized breeding herds of eles. Fun really. On one afternoon drive we were radioed over to see the elephants at a man made dam of perhaps 200 by 200 meters of water. It was an earthen dam with a road on top and on top of the road had been dumped three huge piles of dirt for dam repair. Well, the eles thought this was there for them to play in and they had a fun time of it. We were very close to the dirt piles and as the eles moved off they walked within touching distance of us with their trunks sniffing the air. I took off my hat because I though one might grab it. On my last game drive we came up to eles blocking the dirt road with the huge matriarch in front. They saw us and went back to sleep. One ele on the side sleeping. The matriarch and companions on each side, eyes closed, and trunks relaxed and resting on the ground. And a snore now and then. To leave them Marius did not start the engine, he let the vehicle just role back a few dozen meters.

Lions. A coalition of six male lions is wrecking havoc with pride dynamics in Sabi Sands Reserve. I saw the males as pairs of two, saw four of the six, one pair every day. On an afternoon game drive we found the two young, two month old, cubs being cared for by two lioness. It was late after noon on flat rocks on a river bed so watching and photos were good. These were the only really young cubs I saw for all three camp visits.

I almost saw a kill on my room verandah. A cute little birdie took a bath at the edge of my (private) plunge pool. (Glad some one/thing enjoyed it). It then flew off directly into my huge patio window, I saw it. It flopped onto the patio deck and sat there without moving for many minutes. It finally stood up for a while then flew away. For the most part, all game drives were interesting with seeing three or more of the big five plus giraffe, antelope, birds, rhino with a one meter horn, buffalo, the usual cast of characters. And what about those newlywed/honeymooners you ask? Well, there was one couple on my vehicle but they were mature, had no video camera, and no problem.

Leopard Hills is in Sabi Sands Reserve and thus begs to be compared with the other well know camp MalaMala. I have been to MalaMala in 2005 and 2006 for a total of eight nights. On my score card MalaMala is the winner because of better game drives. The tracker at Mala sets on the vehicle’s back row seat out of the way of all photography. The rangers at Mala are top notch. The rangers use headsets on their radios. Now that is a novelty is it not? So you do not hear radio chatter and I like it that way. I do not understand why other camp rangers do not use headsets. Game sightings, big five, I think are better at Mala but my days at both camps are a rather limited sample. Big big factor – guests in vehicle. I never had more than five (myself included) at Mala, at Leopard Hills for four of my drives there were seven of us. This is a big (negative) consideration for photography. Other considerations with Mala being ahead – cold winter rooms at Leopard Hills, cost, food/meals (but all drinks included).

Finally, once again I have put up about 30 photos on my SmugMug photo web site. Go to http://tomgraham.smugmug.com. My banner page shows photo galleries for previous safaris but this one is titled – SAFARI MAY 2007.

Regards - tom
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 03:36 PM
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Yay, trip report! THANKY, THANKY!
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 03:50 PM
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Matt - Going over I flew AA from LAX to LHR nonstop then BA from LHR to JNB. Coming back, on BA JNB to LHR, AA LHR to JFK then AA JFK to LAX. How was it - never ending it seems at the time, something like 26 hours on the planes and 34 hours from start to finish. Good news is that I got the flight no cost - I used up my 75,000 frequent flyer miles.

AA has got to be one of the worst airlines up there (excepting some 2nd and 3rd world countries). Even on an international flight they charge you for a beer, wine, all alcohol. And of course on all domestic flights, even all way across USA, they charge you for everything other than water and Cokes. Charge for a bag of chips, etc. But the AA seats are I'm sure the narrowest and shortest pitch and hardest around. More so than BA I'm sure.

Now if I could afford to fly business class etc, well that would be great. But I do plan to stay away from AA now that I've used up those miles.
Any recommendations on airlines, economy/coach class? (Business/first class doesn't count).

Madikwe - good news is wild dogs mature and multiple "like rabbits". In just a few years they could be back up in population. Bad news is they will dig under the fence and escape. More roads - could be, don't know. The elephants are a really sad story. There are about 500 there. Too bad they couldn't get rid of those and bring in some from Kruger, Kruger has plenty.
regards - tom
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 04:00 PM
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Excellent pictures Tom! Smugmug sure has a nice layout! Loved the hyena babies, the male lion and that sure is a horny rhino!
Thanks Tom!
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 04:12 PM
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horny rhino - hu aha hu hu wink wink
glad you like the photos, hope they "navigated" ok for you. Laptop and PC screens come in all different pixel widths and I can only easily test on two different types. FWIW, when they pop up on SmugMug they are 600 pixels wide. And if you go into the "Original" they are 920 pixels wide.
regards - tom
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 05:33 PM
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Tom,

I was wondering when you would post a trip report and photos. The photos are great! Looks like you also saw a great variety on your trip.

I found out that position in jeep is important for getting good photo ops. I ended up sitting in passenger side next to ranger on the majority of trips out and it seems I have a lot of photos with the ranger's back. DH always sits on right side in the back, pretty high up and that seems to be the best side and place to be for getting great shots. We also had a problem with one ranger wanting to meet for tea at 3:30PM and having passengers that seemed to be in no hurry to get out for the late drive, thus viewing during daylight was cut short on evening drives. They also had 6:30 wakeup calls and full breakfast at MM so most mornings we weren't out until 7:30AM .... and then there were the times that our passengers forgot they scheduled a massage at 10:30AM and we headed back in ... this happened twice. Geez, some people are not always considerate of others in jeep. But since we were there for 13 days, we had a lot of days when we were alone in jeep.

Interesting report and enjoyed hearing about the 3 camps you visited.

Are you still headed to MM in Sept? Should be a good time of year. We have been there in October before and was nicer weather ... at least not too cold.

Granny Joan
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 06:14 PM
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Thanks, great report.

On one safari, I woke up in Victoria Falls, flew to Harare, spent a few hours in Harare, flew to Lilongwe, and then took private plane to Mfuwe, and made it for the afternoon game drive in South Luangwa. Admittedly, only three flights, but three countries.

Michael
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 06:21 PM
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Tom, great report and wonderful photos. I love the light on the cheetahs. And the dog! Love the cub with the mom on the rock. Lots of great shots. Love the elephants playing in the dirt.

I noticed the black bird isn't named. I believe it's a Magpie Shrike http://chandra.as.utexas.edu/~kormen...ricabirds.html
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 06:36 PM
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I stayed at Madikwe Hills in March 2006 as well as Buffalo Ridge and fortunately I had much better game viewing in Madikwe than you had. I was told a little different story on the elephants -- we were told they broght in some big boys from Kruger because the adolescent males create big problems unless some elders are around to keep them in line and that stopped most of their issues. We only had a single ele sighting from Madikwe Hills but at Buffalo Ridge on the western side of the reserve we were surrounded by a good breeding herd at very close quarters on both days, very relaxed moving all around us.

Also at Madikwe Hills our guide (Gary) wore an ear piece jaw line radio so we didn't hear all the chatter. I still thought it distracted the guide quite a bit but at least we didn't hear the constant noise. At Buffalo Ridge, our guide Moremi was old school and simply left the radio off most of the time and found his own sightings instead of running around for positions in the ques.

Thanks for the great report and outstanding pics.
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 07:13 PM
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You have a beautiful array of photos. It was a lucky trip for spotted cats both day and night. Darling hyena pups and lion cubs. The Kings Camp buffalo shot could be on their promotional literature. The hammerkop is a lovely piece of work. What was the story behind the python picutre?

Scarce wild dogs at Madikwe is surprising. No brown hyenas either I take it. Did the guides mention anything about those hyenas? Someone else stated they thought Madikwe would be at its prime in about a decade. Your experience with elephants at Madikwe shows the huge difference in behavior between those used to vehicles and those unaccustomed to vehicles.

Leopard Hills was true to its name for you. But so was Kings Camp with the leopard kill!

A "carriage" full of honeymooners is really a bit strange. But as you noted with the last couple who acted fine, it may be more personalities than length of marriage that accounts for the extreme silliness.

It's good to end on a high note with an outstanding ranger as you did.

Airline recommendation: For about $150 per flight on BA, you can upgrade from the cheapest seat to slightly bigger seats with World Traveller Plus. The cost may be more now but I did it a few years back for $150 per flight. I am using FF miles this time which added up to only World Traveller (no plus).

Here I was impressed with my two flights, a 2 1/2 hour drive, and a short mekoro trip for a major travel day. It pales by comparison to your 4 flights or Thit Cho's several country scamper.

Thanks for the report and the outstanding photos and hope Carolyn can join you for future safaris.
You're back again in Sept. I believe.
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 07:15 PM
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thanks Cindy, I knew it was a long tailed shrike, but Magpie Shrike sounds like it.

PB - your experience with eles at Madikwe a lot different than mine. I was told of the irritable Zimbabwe elephants by both rangers and one experienced TA guest. Go figure. Wish more guides would use radio headsets. And I have talked with camp managers about it but there is never any real answer.
regards - tom
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 07:32 PM
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GJ - Two words would solve all this - Private Vehicle.
Until then, maybe someday. I agree seat position in the vehicle is important. My favorite would be the row behind the ranger and the whole row so I can move sid to side. I feel that further back thus higher up sometimes gives an un-natural looking down perspective on the subject. Like my one leopard shot in the clear. While if the cat is in the tree like the other shot, might be better to be a bit higher.

Regarding times of day for game drive starts. Seems as though camps have summer hours and winter hours start times. Mine were winter hours, yours may have been summer hours. I had a long discussion with an assistant camp manager about this. Their only repeated answer was "we are on winter hours now". I could not seem to get it across that the sun does not know what winter and summer hours are. The point being we should start the morning game drive 30 minutes before sunrise and the afternoon game drive two hours before sunset. Whatever "name" you want to give that schedule, name it after me if you want to !!!! But I do also understand that starting the afternoon game drive two hours before sunset then with sundowners and a continuing drive makes that total time out rather long, maybe 5 hours.
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 07:45 PM
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oops, posted before I was finished
to continue
Half, no kidding half, of the afternoon game drives I have been on find the interesting photographic subject too late, after the sun is way far down. The lion cubs were very close to that, and 30 minutes earlier would have been better light for them. The morning game drives work out better this way.

Yes, going back in September. Carolyn myself and my sister (her first safari) a couple nights outside of Kruger. Then into Kruger four nights, then Kings Camp five nights. They fly home but I go on to Mala for six nights. Getting close.

regards -tom

ps - this Fodors/site/forum is giving me all kinds of problems with posting tonight
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 08:01 PM
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Lynn -
Indeed I forgot to report that I saw two brown hyenas on one drive (Madikwe Hills). And saw spotted hyenas on maybe three drives. Scarce wild dogs surprising? Not when there are only a handful in the reserve at this time. There were two you could for sure to see because they were being acclimated to the reserve by being kept in a large fenced in area. And that is where we saw the two truly wild dogs, they seemed to be interested in the whining of the dogs fenced in (I guess).

Thanks for the idea about BA. I need to investigate such after our next trip. I used to fly cheapest, cheapest, cheapest but now I can see the value of maybe paying another couple hundred bucks. Our next flights in September from LAX to JNB are on UA to/from JFK and from there on SAA. I'm hoping that SAA will be a more pleasant experience than AA or BA. It is certainly a long flight(s).

It sure was a delight to have ranger Marius guiding. And his tracker Abraham was also a splendid fellow. Worked hard a "took a couple for the team".

regards - tom
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Old Jun 15th, 2007, 03:32 AM
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Tom,

I love the photos you posted.

I am in regular contact with Marius Coetzee(your ranger at Leopard Hills). Really cool guy! We have a lot of heated, but helpful, photographic debates etc.

He is a very accomplished photographer. You can see this by going to this link:
http://www.outdoorphoto.co.za/forum/...00&ppuser=4142

I am heading to Exeter in July. Did you see any Exeter game-drive vehicles?
How long did you spend at sightings?

Regards,

JP
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Old Jun 15th, 2007, 03:43 AM
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Wey Hey!!!! ... I've been waiting for this .... just spotted it now. I haven't read it yer but I'm going to print it out for my bedtime reading - no doubt I'll have questions after that

Imelda
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Old Jun 15th, 2007, 04:38 AM
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Hi JP

They are wonderful photos, the ones that I looked - interesting mix. Enjoy your time in July.

Kind regards

Kaye
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Old Jun 15th, 2007, 04:52 AM
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Kaye,

Thanks. I hope I will! Are you a rugby supporter? Big match tommorow! Marius is indeed a very good photogrpher!

When are you visiting our beautiful country again?

Regards,

JP
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