Trip Report- South Africa: Kruger, Kings Camp, Kirkman’s Kamp, September 2009
Continued-

KINGS CAMP-
Kings Camp is in the Timbavati Reserve which borders Kruger and is just north of the Sabi Sand Reserve. This was my fourth time at Kings Camp and we were staying for eight nights. Guess it’s obvious that I like Kings Camp. Manager Warren and wife Lisha are marvelous hosts. Warren is also an excellent ranger/guide. The camp has 11 bungalows, maximum 22 guests. The camp layout is quite nice, the bungalows very attractive decorated in British Colonial style. Complete spacious bathroom with double sinks are attached to the bungalow which makes it like two separate rooms. Also a small patio and outdoor shower. There are two photos on my smugmug of the room. Common camp facilities include a nice library with good internet service on a PC or you can wireless your notebook. The food/meals are excellent with gorgeous presentation, many thanks to Chef Nico and his cooks. Excellent breakfast after the morning game drive, excellent lunch from 1:30pm to 3pm and guess what, also an excellent dinner after cocktails about 8pm in either the dining room or boma or on occasion an outdoor barbeque. Drinks, soda, wine beer, mini room bar, cocktails are included in the room rate. At dinner the game drive vehicle group and ranger dine together at a table. For breakfast and lunch you dine when and with whomever you wish.

Our ranger was Morne (accent aigue over the “e”, sounds like long “a”, but he is Scottish descent) and his tracker Selby. They were an excellent team. Morne has been a guide in the Timbavati for over 10 years so he knows the reserve blindfolded. He is also very much into photography. Selby is a Shangaan tracker who grew up tracking. He sat on the left front fender of the Land Rover. Aahh, the new Land Rover is very nice, longer wheel base, more leg room smoother ride and quieter diesel. Morne wore a headset so we did not hear radio chatter.

Game Drives –
Morning game drives after coffee started at 6am and went to around 9am. Afternoon game drives started at 4pm and came back about 7pm. I don’t like such a late afternoon start time. Starting at 4pm gives only an hour of good daylight, by 5pm there is not much sun left and wildlife is very likely to be in the shade if in river bed etc.

Some statistics. Eight nights, thus 16 game drives total. One drive had only 2 guests (counting ourselves), 2 drives had 4 guests, 2 drives had 5 guests, and 11 drives had 6 guests. (The clientele at Kings Camp is about 80% American and the rest SA and European). The weather was good but we did have two days of mostly overcast cloudy skies.

Big five. Sure we saw the big five. Saw lions on 9 drives, leopards on 7 drives, elephants on 7 drives, buffalo on 7 drives and rhino on 5 drives. The lion pride situation is unstable. The magnificent Schobele male is no longer seen but he may yet be around. What was his pride had a pregnant lioness killed my nomadic males. And because of that another pride lioness abandoned her cubs. The best lion photos I got were late in the afternoon when three young lions woke up to drink at a water hole. We did not see lions feeding on kill.

The six female leopards are missing a dominant male since Maganjan was killed. Maganjan was always around for appreciative guest viewing. We did see all six female leopards and one with an impala kill and one with a duiker kill. As for eles, we did not see any large herds and not on every game drive like in previous years. Rather matches our experience in Kruger which is not surprising (considering that the Timbavati is due west of where we were in Kruger). One very large herd of buffalo, estimated at 500, that we got in the midst of. Several groups of old daga boys. Rhinos were around including a huge male that we saw three times.

Of course impala, kudu, waterbuck, a few zebra, giraffe, steenbok, wart hogs, baboons and vervets, an African wildcat at night, couple of hyena, hippos in couple of water holes and at the dam.

Kings Camp is a pleasure. All of the staff manager Warren, office, waiters, groundskeepers are very friendly and helpful. Ranger Morne and tracker Selby were great and I know the other rangers are also great. The bungalows are lovely, cozy, quiet and the individual AC units keep them as you want. All meals wonderful, thanks Chef Nico. Game drives good, fun, and always interesting. Kings Camp stays in the top half of my list of favorite safari camps. One thing though, back home I asked Carolyn what she felt about staying 8 nights in one camp. She said it was perhaps a bit too much, she would rather split it between two camps. Suppose I’d have to mostly agree, if I wanted say 15 nights on safari (like I usually do) I’d prefer 5 nights at 3 different camps. Especially if the camps were reasonably close so I could make the transfer without missing a game drive. Like I did by going done to Kirkman’s Kamp in Sabi Sand.

KIRKMAN’S KAMP-
Kirkman’s Kamp is in the very south of Sabi Sand Reserve. I did the morning game drive at Kings Camp then a charter flight down to the old Skukuza airport where a Kirkman’s ranger was waiting for me. (Carolyn went back to the Hoedspruit airport to began journey home). Kirkman’s Kamp goes way back to Harry Kirkman when he managed the Toulon cattle ranch there in 1927 for six years. The Toulon property is now owned by Exeter Holdings (I think) who purchased it from MalaMala. The camp itself is managed by &Beyond/CCAfrica. MalaMala still has traversing rights and Kirkman’s is permitted to traverse on a small section of adjoining MalaMala.

Kirkman’s Kamp is centered around the original homestead that has been renovated several times over the years. The rooms (18 of them) carry this same old farm feel which I liked. The rooms were about 5m by 7m including bath area, about half the size of the bungalows at Kings Camp. The small back patio of the rooms overlook a shallow valley that looks pure Africa. A couple of room photos are in my smugmug safari group.

Common areas include a library, nice bar, large lounge area, large dinning terrace, and boma dinning room. Internet access is available if you use/borrow a terminal in the office. I was told it was very slow service, I did not try it. All meals were excellent with good selections. All beverages including bar and room mini bar are inclusive. Every staff person was very friendly and eager to assist you.


Game Drives-
Morning wake up at 5:30am, coffee, start the drive at 6am. Back about 9am, a great breakfast. Lunch mid afternoon, tea/coffee at 3:30pm with game drive to follow when everyone’s ready. Back from the afternoon game drive about 7pm and dinner around 7:30-8pm. For my first two game drives my ranger was Duncan. After those two drives my ranger was Grant with Shangaan tracker Eckson for all five days. Grant is also into photography and a most energetic, knowledgeable, and convivial ranger/host. He and Eckson were a great team. Eckson sat high on the vehicle’s rear most seat. I prefer to have the tracker back there not obstructing the front view. Grant wore a headset for radio communications.

Some statistics. Five nights, 10 game drives total. Two drives had only one guest (me), 4 drives had 5 guests, 3 drives had 6 guests, and 1 drive had 7 guests. (The clientele at Kirkmans is about 50% American and the other half SA and European). The weather was good but we did have one whole day and one morning of overcast cloudy skies.

The highlight of all game drives this safari has to be the pack of wild dogs. On the morning of my drive with Duncan we found a pack of 11-13 dogs on the Sand River bank. They were settling in for a day of relaxing/sleeping. The view was about perfect, out in the open and we were eye level with them being on the bank and us in the river bed. Good photos were easy. That afternoon drive then with ranger Grant we went back to that area and found the pack mostly sleeping. At about 5pm they started to stir and a few drank from the river. More activity, pack greetings and they began to move off. Tracker Eckson said they were hunting so Grant and another vehicle started to follow – as best you can with wild dogs in the brush/bush and trees. We kept up with some of them and in a few minutes we came on their kill, an impala. It was already half eaten. They had woke, hunted, killed, and started eating within 30 minutes!!! That’s quicker than I can do it at home!!! Still photos of them though at the kill were not good, it being after sundown and in the shady brush. However, some of the video is ok, video seems to “work” better in low difficult light than still photos.

The big five. Saw lions four times, either “flat” or walking, but not feeding on a kill. Saw leopard four times but the same big male (Tjellahanga male). He was feeding at a buffalo carcass and twice feeding at a baboon he had killed. Saw elephants six times, usually far away, a couple times close, but no big herds. Saw rhino four times including a “family” of three twice. Buffalo four times, a small herd of about 100. A hyena den with adult female, two pups and one juvenile.

Also of course impala, water buck, bush buck, kudu, a group of five ground hornbills, a few, not many zebra and giraffe, wart hogs, baboons and vervets, and a little bee-eater (bird) that let us get up close for photos, beautiful bird.

I liked Kirkmans and would consider going back but may try instead the other &Beyond camps in Sabi Sand, i.e. Exeter, Leadwood, or Dulini.

Comparing Kings Camp and Kirkmans Kamp? Pretty close call. As a camp facility I prefer Kings Camp for its more spacious rooms/bungalows and many more nice touches such as having wet hand towels for you before sundowners. But Kirkmans was still very nice for its “old timey” feel. Game drives – well first lets put aside the extremely rare wild dog sightings at Kikrmans. After that, the game drives were close to equal but the nod goes to King Camp. The percentage of big cat sightings per game drive was higher and more interesting at Kings Camp. As well as for elephants and buffalo. Yet game drives are so serendipitous that its hard to compare from just a few days. And the new Land Rovers at Kings are much more guest friendly than the old ones at Kirkmans.

Finally, in talking with staff and guests at both camps they suggest that the better time for South Africa safari is the month of August or July. In September the weather can start to change towards cloudy. August is very clear skies but can also be very windy. July seems to have it good except the morning can still be cold. So, I don’t know. I wonder about the month of May, their fall, the front side of winter.

END

Awesome stuff Tom!

I'm waiting in anticipation for the photos!

Regards,

KK

Happy you like it KK, thanks.
Photos - that smugmug link above did not work for you?
Photos can not be included within a Fodors thread. You have to link to them somewhere else. I.e. www.tomgraham.smugmug.com

regards - tom

Hi Tom, thanks for the report. I was there at around the same time and yes, the weather was grim for a few days with one morning remaining in thick mist until around 9.30am. I should have learnt as I visited the same area, same time last year and had similar weather. I don't mind the bad weather it just makes it tough for photos.

You were lucky to be able to stay with the wild dogs. We watched them for a little while and then the rest of our vehicle didn't want to follow them! They were more on a mission to see as many different types of animals as they could on one game drive! The ranger and I were so disappointed.

Great report Tom. I am curious about something--if the morning drives end at 9 and the afternoon don't start until 4, what in the world do you do in between? Besides breakfast and lunch, that is. It seems like a huge waste of wildlife viewing time Granted, I know mid-day is not best for wildlife but there is always something to see. Is there much to see within the camps? Did you take any bush walks?

Great pictures & report - thanks. We'll be at King's Camp next year so I was glad to see you still give it top ratings.

I was wondering the same thing as jczinn - -what do people do with the down time in the afternoon?

Great report. I am trying to talk my husband into spending some time in Kruger, but he is stubborn - would rather be in private reserves (I guess he won lotto and didn't tell me). This report is helpful in getting him to change his mind.

Tom, Great report and I much enjoyed reading. You certainly had some fine opportunities and got some great shots. You should be about ready to start seriously planning your next trip.
Chuck

Thanks for all the details and wonderful report. I arrived in SA about 10days after you and other than one slightly rain evening, we had perfect weather. Will check out your photos later.

Great report. I particularly enjoyed the details and your thoughtful comments about how much time to spend in Kruger and in the individual camps. I know from earlier reports that you've spent a week in one place before.

Very, very nice photos--those of the wild dogs are wonderful.

Did anyone have any insight into why there were no big herds of elephants in Kruger and the Timbavati?

Lynneb – I remember that Kirkman’s thick misty morning, my glasses were dripping wet. I was also in the Timbavati and in Sep 2008 and had much worse weather and for more days. Bummer, does make for very tough photos. Thus why I’m thinking of going safari in SA in either July or May. Bad luck for you with the hunting wild dogs. It was exciting following them and I was sure we would loose them. But our tracker seemed to sense where they were going. Private vehicle, that’s the answer!!

Jczinn, Leslie_S – between 9 am and 4pm, two things breakfast and lunch J Those can take up some time. I like to nap after breakfast having gotten to sleep night before about 11pm and then up at 5;30am. Other than that I just meander some around camp, go to the library, read, maybe the bar, chat a little with guests. You can do a bush walk with a guide, but I don’t. It is typical of SA safari camps to not start that afternoon game drive until 4pm. I really really really wish they would start it at 3pm (and end at 6pm). This would give another hour of great sunlight. The reason they don’t is because it can be hot at 3pm. I also think another reason is the it would interfere with the lunch schedule!!! I’m really tempted to have a private game drive vehicle and thus set my own hours. But costs extra, $300 or more per day.

Christabir – Kruger is unique and a totally different experience than a private camp. Easy to do out of Joburg and not expensive, maybe $200 per day total for two including a car. Nice way to recover some from the flights over – for us – but might be too much “work” for some compared to being taken care of in a private camp.

Chuck- thanks. Not sure about my next safari. Thinking it may be in May of 2011. We’ll see if I can hold out that long J

Moremiles, Cw – thanks. I very much like to spend several days in every camp, minimum of 4. Like to settle in and get the flavor of the place. And if you are not careful, you can also waste a lot of time, energy and $$$$ switching camps. Herds of eles, I asked a Kruger ranger where they were and they said more north towards Mopani camp. But we did not go up that way. The other camps just did not know. It was a bit disappointing not to see lots of them after seeing so many in previous years.

regards - tom

Interesting about the elephants. Thanks Tom.

tom-

good point aboutt he jet lag. Last time we did the layover in Europe.

Sorry to burst your bubble a little, but we were in Pafuri and Mashatu this year in June - it rained for four days. I think climate change is playing tricks with us. We won't be able to depend on history for weather.

I agree about the 4PM game drive. I don't really enjoy the nighttime drive (I don't like to shine lights at the animals and the pics are just for the memories, not for anything special). We should get a group together and go. We won't have to pay for the truck and we'd get to go out early!

I'm trying to hold out til 2011, too. Don't know if we'll make it, either!

Excellent report Tom,i specially like the summary of the wildlife viewing in each area and the number of people per vehicle as well as the details of every accommodation.

I also was in SouthAfrica while you where there but not so many days.
We arrive August 31 and came back September 11.Also visited Timbavati Reserve but different camp(Ngala) and did stay at Kirkmans in Sabi Sand and we found both places wonderful.

Our guide and tracker at Kirkmans where also Grant and Eckson and i completely agree with you about how perfect team they are.
I think our morning drives at Kirkmans ended closer to ten than to nine O´clock ?? We then had a very big breakfast and skip lunch (to much food for us) By the time we ended breakfast it was more than eleven Then i went to the pool with my kids(Kirkmans has a beautiful pool with and amazing view where you can relax with a beer or a book or both.There was the possibility of a one hour walk which we didnt do.

You where very lucky with the dogs at Kirkmans,we didn´t got to see them there , nor at Ngala where they had a den 2 months ago.

Some very nice pictures,the elephants at the Olifant River and the lion drinking in golden light are fantastic.

We also got to see one of the difficult small five,the elephant shrew,but that was at Phinda Reserve.

Thanks.

Paco.

christabir - We have not tried a layover in Europe. I think I just like to "zone out", plow on and get it over with.

Agree more about the "night" drives. In my more than 70 -night- game drives I can count on one hand those that were interesting - lions hunting. As for photos, the same number on one hand. Those spotlight drives may be exciting the first three times but after that they are a waste, IMHO. And, I'm all for going as a group. Have suggested this before but seems to be very difficult to organize.

Paco - Glad you like my numbers, I like to have some facts. Also there are sightings of lions and then there are sightings of lions. Makes a huge difference whether they are "flat cats" or "mobile".

Happy you enjoyed Kirkmans, that time between breakfast and next game drive seems to go faster than you think it would. I knew wild dogs visited Kirkmans but did not expect to see them. Also feel it will likely be many years before I see them again, if ever.

The lone lion drinking is probably my favorite shot of the trip. I like dramatic lighting, and it is almost over the top . The Little Bee-eater is probably the best bird photo I've ever taken.

I've only seen three of the little five. Ant lion, leopard tortoise, buffalo weaver bird. Missing elephant shrew and rhino beetle.

regards - tom

Tom
Nice report with some great pictures, appreciate the views of Kings Camp it looks very nice. Agreed on length of stay, in January we have 9 nights at MM, but we split 4 at Main Camp, then the very simple drive down to Rattrays for 5 nights. Hopefully we'll manage to make it down south without something distracting us - we've only made the Hyena den once, and I love the Sycamore Fig on the river near Kirkman's.
Matt

Wow, your shots are gorgeous and I love so many of them-the trunk with the water source, the lion ant, the lovely leopards and drinking lions and the posing wild dogs.

Very good report and I also like the wrap up of the sightings!

We also enjoyed Morné and Selby at King's Camp last April. The "safari routine" was new to us which we didn't particularly appreciate as we normally skip lunch because of high tea/cake or sandwhich which keeps us going until dinner; doing breakfast plus lunch particularly as it is a set lunch at King's is simply undoable for us. But at King's when one skips lunch means no more bites undtil dinner.
When we were there they did not stop during the morning drives which made it tough to not stretch legs in between. And - the hot chocolate is quite nice in between driving.

We liked very much the nice gesture when coming back from pm drive: the port or sherry on arrival back at lodge - and the towels.
Seemingly doesn't matter how many safaris one has done - always something new....

Tom, I remember that you stated IF Kirkman again does load the car to full capacity you would never again visit an andBeyond property. Obviously at Kirkman's you had that experience once. Right?
Did the manager point that out as a kind of "emergency plan" or did you have the impression it's done regularly depending on guest numbers?

Sorry for asking so many questions!

I also like the lion pic very much! Stunning!

SV

oops - one more:
How are the new bathrooms looking? Have they all bathrooms remodeled/refurb?

SV

Thanks matt and moremiles-
Lucky you, back to MM in Jan. I'd like to go back to MM, would be my fourth time there. I see they did not raise their 2010 rates. With the dollar going down MM may soon be the same rate as Kings Camp and Kirkman's!!! Now, that's a good deal!

SV - that safari game drive schedule is very typical in SA private camps. Unlike say the Mara or Moremi where you can't be in the reserve after sundown, on private property you can be out whenever. But again, I don't care for driving around in the dark, I'd trade an hour of that for 15 minutes of sunlight!!! As for having lunch, agree, I didn't need it but lunch was always SO GOOD that I just could not skip it. With Morne we always stopped for morning tea, actually, hot chocolate and Amarula . Kings Camp has many more nice thoughtful touches. Starting with manager Warren coming around every morning at breakfast to say hello, asking how you are doing.

Kirkmans - Yeah I did have on one game drive 7 guests (myself included). That is acceptable, barely, for me. By full capacity I was thinking of is- 1 plus 3 plus 3 plus 2 (with tracker 3), total 9. That 3 is in the three seats behind the guide. Before one drive I misunderstood about new arrivals and thought they were going to join us. I told Grant I would not sit three across. He replied no problem, they were with another guide.

I was in room 3 which I think is the "old" style. I heard that they have remodeled -two- rooms but not sure if that means the rest are scheduled or not.

And happy to have questions, I put up my report hoping that Fodorites will find it informative and have questions about what I may have left out. Thanks.

regards - tom

Another tremendously successful trip & pictures. Loved the saddle billed storks and buffalo in the water. You had lots of good waterhole action. Nice job on the tree squirrel. You should show your camp shots to the managers. They might want to buy them.

Tom: I actually looked while I was at work today to see if you had posted your trip report. All was well until I tried to look at your photos...big brother blocked the page so I had to wait until I got home! Great report, I enjoy the statistics. Some really nice photos, maybe I don't need to rent that 200-400 to use the teleconverter on, I just need to work on the "me" aspect of taking photos. I love the drinking lion and the little bee-eater. The lone wild dog standing with the others laying down has great light to show off the many colors in their coats. Good work. I'd be up for May 2011, in my 5 trips to Africa, all have been between November and February (work schedule = no vacation July-early October). I bit the bullet and paid the $$$ to have a private vehicle in Jan at Mombo, we'll see, it sure is painful to think about!
Thanks again.
Pat

Thanks for the trip report and photos which were very nice. You are right, the bee eater is a great shot.

One question, never having been to SS, why don't you transfer by safari vehicle from one camp/concession to another instead of flying? Wouldn't that be one long safari drive or aren't vehicles allowed through the other concessions, even as a transfer?

Tom,
Your pictures are soooo impressive. Excellent editing, and I know how painful that can be if you're a good photographer.

I don't think I've ever seen as beaiutiful a leopard as that male in Kruger. And that tusker. My what big teeth you have! Love the bee eater and the dogs spread out in front of the jeep. But the home page shot of the elephants at dusk is my favorite.

I used to be an avid photograher but gave it up years ago, except for a few snaps here and there. I just love staring at the animals and scenery and not having to work at focusing and composition and all that. Thank goodness the digitals now don't make as much nopise as when people used motor drives. Annoying in the middle of peaceful nature!

Leslie

Wonderful trip report Tom. You bring your trip to life in your descriptions. I hope to get together with you at some point so we can talk more.

Mike

Lynn - thanks, the little tree squirrel was really funny, you should see the video of him making all kinds of racket!!! Like he could scare anything away!! Those shots of the King Camp room are actually from KC promo, I say that on the photo captions.

Pat - I think 400mm (your 80-400) is long enough for SA, for Bots I'm not sure. Hey, CHUCK safarichuck1, you frequent Mombo, what is your favorite lens for there? Also, sorry if I repeat myself but you really need to crop almost any image in "post processing" hope you can do that. Both the lion drinking and little bee-eater have obviously been cropped from the camera's 2x3 format. The little bee-eater was cropped -a lot-. What you see is around 1/4 of the total shot. Makes that 300m lens look like a 600mm lens. A private vehicle like you'll have at Mombo is ideal for photos. May 2011, ok, lets do it . A year from now, depending on how the world has turned in the meantime, let's see if we can get some interest in doing a SA safari, May 2011.

twaffle - thanks. Within SS you can indeed transfer easily by vehicle between camps. My situation was that Kings Camp is in the Timbavati reserve and it and SS are connected only by South Africa highways. Thus you have to exit Timbavati to Hoedspruit, take a SA highway down to SS gate, and drive to camp deep in SS. Would take 4 hours I would guess. Which is not all that bad if you have a car with you. Otherwise you will pay for a shuttle either by driving or flying. My air shuttle cost $160 per person, but I had to pay for minimum of two passengers.

Leslie - thanks, but I really did not get that many super photos considering all the time I spent in a game drive vehicle. Maybe two good leopard and two good lion photos . Big cats were just not cooperating all those days. What's that work out too, $2,000 each . I used to do a lot of photography with 35mm slides. And it so frustrated me that I was stuck with the photo as taken. The digital age with all the post processing capability rekindled my interest. As for it being quieter, yes, but some guests on game drive can not be quiet for more than 30 seconds!!!

One other photo trivia item, FWIW. I purposely watch for "serious" camera kit at both camps. At Kings Camp only my guide came close with his 100-400 Canon lens. No other guest had such at Kings Camp. At Kirkmans there were two "serious" kits (both Canon).

regards - tom

It is interesting what you note about "serious kits". Somehow I always envisioned that nearly everyone on safari would have serious photography equipment. Clearly, I am quite wrong! But I was also surprised on our Galapagos trip at how few even had binoculars (!!) As a fairly serious photographer I am a little concerned about the crowding in the safari vehicles, but there's no way we can afford a private one so we'll just have to deal with it. We'll be at Elephant Plains and Nkorho, I am hoping they don't crowd too much. What tends to be the maximum number of passengers in one of these vehicles?

And this statement left me cringing >>some guests on game drive can not be quiet for more than 30 seconds<< As a birder I am used to quiet!

Well, at least we'll be on our own in Kruger for five days before going to the Sabi Sand lodges. I'm getting a bit apprehensive about these game drives! Still, I'll be happy if I get a few shots as lovely as your leopard and wild dogs And yes that Bee Eater shot is fabulous!

jczinn - Of course on past safaris I've always noticed camera gear. This time I thought I'd keep a note of it. And this time was typical I'd say. Maybe it's the camps I frequent?!?!?

I have no experience at Elephant Plains nor Nkorho. If you do find a crowded vehicle, take the seat next to the guide. Yes, it is low, but to me that is the better perspective, not looking down on the animals back. Sometimes I take that seat even if others available. But the guide can be in the way if the view is on that side. Of course if it's a leopard in a tree, then higher up could be better. Which all means - you hardly ever can plan much about what you will see on a game drive, the animal, the view, the light. Maybe that's why I and many people become addicted to them . Yep, chatty guest can be irritating, especially when you are shooting video!!!!

And Kruger is fun, totally different experience than a private camp. And in SS I expect you to get as good as and more good shots than I did!!!

regards - tom

Tom: I assumed that the lion was cropped from the other photo, and that unless the bee-eater was the camp pet, he was probably cropped as well. Do you use a tri or mono pod or a beanbag? I have pretty much switched to beanbags because I seem to get all tangled up trying to use a pod of any sort in the vehicles. Yes, I will be able to crop photos and hopefully will get a shot or two worth cropping. Only two months to wait!

scruffypuma -the closer of the lion drinking is a different photo from the three lions. The lone lion drinking I shot using 70-300mm lens. An instant later Carolyn made the other shot using her Canon S3. If you open the "exif" data below photo you will see camera model used (also f-stop, shutter speed, ISO and other good poop). The lone lion drinking is still cropped from original, 300mm was not quite enough to be that close.

Tri, mono, bean - I don't use any. I'm mostly too lazy, and some of my shots suffer from it!!! I try to keep my shutter faster than 1/500 and fire off about three quickly. If my lens were bigger than the Nikon 70-300, I'd -have- to use some kind of support, simply could not hold a 200-400mm alone for more than 10 seconds (weighs 7 lbs). Use the bean bag, works good for a lot of people. Two months huh, that's great, you can count the weeks on two hands!!!!

regards - tom

Tom,
RE: your question about what my favorite lens for Mombo? I find the ability to get really up close in Botswana allows me to shoot with a Canon 300mm/2.8 Supertele and pretty much fill the frame (cats, dogs and other large game). The 300mm on a 1.6 crop digital SLR equal 480mm in conventional 35mm terms. Most people find the 300mm/2.8 far to heavy to shoot hand held and so some sort of mechanical stabilization is necessary. This lens is about twice the size of a 300mm/4 but the image quality is unbeatable. I keep a 70-200mm/2.8 on another full frame body (no crop factor) and in reviewing my images from my most recent trip in May-June, I discovered that the shorter zoom lens yielded 75% of my images. My kit for East Africa includes some longer glass as you can never get as close as in Botswana. I'm an opportunistic bird photographer and while I never pass up a good shot, I haven't designed my kit around bird photography. As a point of information, I have found that the Canon 300mm/2.8 will take a 1.4X teleconverter without significant effect on quality. On a 1.6 crop Canon body, the final focal length in 35mm equivalence, equal 672mm (300 x 1.6 x 1.4 = 672mm). In fact, I seldom use a teleconverter in Botswana as it ends up being way too much lens. A couple of years ago, I asked Andy Biggs for his thoughts on lenses for Botswana and South Africa and his suggestions were right on. Andy said I would find the 70-200/2.8 to be the most used and that is just what I have discovered. I either sit next to the driver or in the first row in back of the driver. I try and keep good communication with my guide about what kind of shot I'm after and work to develop the right chemistry between us so that the driver can plan the shot setup on the approach to the sighting. I don't go after the tight shots much anymore as I like to place the subject in some biological context, either using the background or showing some interspecies interaction. O.K. sorry for the long winded reply, guess I'm getting excited about our upcoming last minute safari next month. Tom, your trip report got those jucies flowing .
Regards-Chuck

Hey Pat the sruffypuma - surely do hope you see this from Chuck!!! This guy has been there, done that, and has the pictures to prove it . Many thanks Chuck, not long winded, good info, good explanation. My vehicle seating preference same as yours. I also don't mind setting next to the driver/guide especially if vehicle is somewhat full. And agree about the tight shots also. Better stop before I get "long winded" (again). Wish I had a last minute safari coming up!!!!

regards - tom

Thanks for the response, great tip about sitting next to the driver. Or right behind...I am hoping that they don't squish three across, though...If I can share one bench with my spouse that would work ok because he knows if I tell him to get out of the way for a shot, he'd better And I would agree that a lower angle makes for more intimate shots--although, as you note, for leopards in a tree maybe not! And also for birds in trees! I am a big bird shooter but expecting to do more bird shooting in camps and in Kruger, not so much in Sabi Sand on the drives. Also after reading these replies I am happy I invested in the 70-200 2.8, I have a feeling I will be using it quite a lot. We leave in under a month!!! Starting to pre-pack my gear to see how it all fits, and there's a lot of it.

Hi Tom - nice report! And it sounds like another great trip. I read your comment about the $2k images and I know what you mean. Although the trip itself is wonderful, the photography not so great. My trip to Bots in 2007 was like that compared to Bots in 2005. One of these days (years!) I'm going to have to try Krueger.

The lion images are excellent. Leopards also. That male leopard is huge. I like the "Leopard with kill and spectators". Cool shot. I'm glad hyenas can't climb trees Love the buffs in water (and the butts). The leopard on the kill shot is good, too. Nice, sharp bee-eater. They are so pretty. Love the ground hornbill. I think they are my favorite birds and I love how the family stays together. They are hard to get good images of.

My favorite is the home page elephants in the water. That one is great.

Where do you want to go next time?

Tom
THX for responding to my questions.

jczinn
EP and being a keen wildlife photographer can result in some frustration as EP puts up to 9 respectively 10 people in the car! 3 people in a row if they are full or a spare car isn't available because of private booking.
In the earlier days one could book the middle seat and pay roughly 300ZAR per drive. Now one has to "buy" all other unoccupied seats which sums up considerably.
Depending on the time you stay there you might be lucky if the camp is not fully booked. But EP is extremely popular and rarely are rondavels available particularly during festive season up until mid Jan, Easter, July-Aug European holidays.
Maybe you ask your TA to check what their present policy is on seat sale or sole us of vehicle and maybe depending on the volume your TA has at EP he can be influential regarding seating.
Just talk to him to get also EP aware you are a keen photographer. But a good TA will anyway send EP a briefing before you arrive.

On Nkorho I cannot comment.

Happy travels!

SV

JCZINN

Don't worry about it too much, from our long experience most fellow guests have been well behaved - the worst were at Mombo, but that camp as I've said before, will be great when the guests realize they are on safari.

Now we are private vehicles all the way, usually because we travel with another couple and go to the same camp at least once a year. That kind of loyalty gets us private vehicles at no extra charge. And I really dont have a problem going to the same location over and over again - every day is different in the bush.

Make sure you're up on your SA birds. My Sabie Sand list is around 236, but in Kruger you probably have the opportunity to pick up some species you wont find in SSGR.

I recommend the Roberts CD for both PC and PDA for species and locations and calls. My preference on field guide is SASOL, having used newman for years I made the switch on the last trip. It's much better for raptors in particular.

Yikes SV, 10 in a vehicle? That would be awful. I will write EP and see what they say. I don't think we can afford the private vehicle there (according to their website, ZAR 3000.) But I could find out about the middle seat...However I did email Nkorho and they told me maximum should be 7 in a vehicle, or we could get a private one for ZAR 2000. We are considering it for one day, at least.

napamatt, we've got the SASOL book and also the Roberts Kruger guide, I think we are set, and I've been studying up! We will be traveling with a birding guide so we are hoping to get up to 300+ species for the trip (two weeks also including some highveld areas.) Can't wait!!

sundowner - thanks, glad you like it. My best views of lion cub and leopard were on our very first safari in 2005. Wish I could duplicate that one again, I'd take it exactly as it was!!! In fact that home page shot you mentioned is from that safari, Botswana. Next safari? I'm open, wouldn't mind something totally new. You thinking of another open invitation? If not, likely SA again in May of 2011 - if I can wait that long!!!

jczinn- couple more thoughts about vehicles. Communicate via email with the camp managers telling them you are keen on photography. This worked for me this last safari. Also tell them you are keen birders and they my try to put "twitcher" guests together. In fact one member here said that when she(?) told the other vehicle guests she was a "birder" they all got out!!! Guests in camp for two days and insisting on the big 5 sometimes are not very patient of viewing a "bird on a stick" with binoculars . I'm not trying to get you concerned, I've never had a big problem with it in over 80 days in safari camps.

regards - tom

jczinn
You cannot loose by writing them an email! They might give you info on booking situation during your stay. Maybe you can talk them into selling you the middle seat.

I keep my fingers crossed for you as EP is the best value for money you can find in Sabi Sands. An similar one would be Arathusa. But there again - if conditions (yield) requests: LOADED vehicle.

Good luck!

SV

Tom, I don't have any plans in the works. I just wanted to see where you were going next. I'm open to suggestions . I've enjoyed the "open invitation" trips and wouldn't hesitate to do another if it's to the right place(s).

Do you have a reason you go in May?

My best photos are from Botswana. I also wish I could duplicate that trip again (even with the insufferable heat).

tom-

Just got a chance to look at pics. Beautiful. I'm getting more and more interested in a self drive in Kruger with everyone's great experiences.

We are going to try to go to Zim/Zam in 2011. I'll invite everyone to join us - I'd love to be able to go on a schedule that we want instead of the 4PM evening drive start. I'd much rather go out at 2 and drive back right after sundowners. I can have a drink or two while waiting for another group before dinner!

jczinn - I actually had a great experience this June with a full truck on 3 drives (at Arathusa that I would highly recommend). The group was really fun, we were able to take unobstructed photos (people moved out of the way when asked), and we had a blast with the interesting backgrounds of all the other guests. Being at a place that was not so high end was really more to my liking than others we've been to. Go to www.sabisand.co.za to check out the traversing areas of the camps. We did run into a couple of EP trucks and none of them were full.

sundowner - Going next? I wouldn't mind spending 15 days in three camps in Sabi Sand. (But again open to new). Question is when is best time/month. The past two years I've had too many days of iffy weather in that area in September. I put the question up to this safari guides and staff and they recommended SA in August or July. However, one said that August can be very windy. July has no winds but mornings can be cold. So ok, maybe SA next July, but, guess what - guess not because of World Cup.

What does all this have to do with May? In May 2007 I did 15 days of safari in SA and the weather was near perfect. Is great May weather typical? Hopefully some of our SA residents will answer back. Or perhaps I will start a separate thread on this. I also remember that the grass/bush in May was really not high or intrusive like I thought it might be. And May 2010 is almost too soon so maybe May 2011?? (Lord willing and the creek don't rise).

christbar - thanks. Kruger is fun, just don't expect the concentration of the big 5 like in private camps. We also have enjoyed being with other guests on drives. Their reactions and wonder being first time safari goers can be fun.

regards - tom
ps - I almost beginning to feel that May 2010 might be fine after all . See how I feel come maybe February . How strong/weak the $$$ is . Shoulder/off season for many camps . Could depend on other USA trip plans then.

Tom: Thanks for asking safarichuck about the lenses. I appreciate the help (and can use every bit of it). I had better put on my glasses and look at those lion shots again!

SafariChuck: Thank you as well, for the detailed kit info. Don't have the 300 2.8, so I will just make due w/ the 80-400 4-5.6 and pray for good light! I do have a 70 -200 2.8 that I use on a second body as well. I always smile when getting into a vehicle that has 4-6 people because they usually scramble for the upper seats, so I just quietly get in the rumpled seat by the driver, nice and low.

Thanks again, guys, I really appreciate the help.

Tom

I have been waiting and looking for your report and PHOTOS.

I must have missed it when you first posted, so I finally figured out to click on your screen name. to see if you had posted a report and photos.


I haven't gotten to the report, but the photos are wonderful. Especially the birds. I loved the composition of the 3 saddle-billed storks by the water. And the buffalo skull was gruesome, but awesome at the same time.

So now that I have it bookmarked, i can read leisurely.

amy

Thanks amy. So happy you found it, it should make your week!!!! Well, maybe your 1/4 hour .

Bird photos are so tough. I'm happy to get just a couple of good ones on a safari. That buffalo skull was rather amusing. In Kruger we were driving on a main, asphalt, road when there blocking one lane is the skull, rib cage and backbone!!! Of course I had to take photos, and I have a lot more . That afternoon on the way back it all was just off to the side of the road. I presume the Park Service had pushed it over out of the way. More photos. Though the leopard lying along the side of the road has to be my biggest surprise ever in Kruger.

Of course happy to answer any questions you may have - tom

Tom

I wish you would post more of your photos, you take such good ones, I can't believe that you don't have more that are worth posting.

I enjoyed the report too, but its your photos that are the best.

Next time I go (note the word NEXT) I will follow your advice about not shooting below a shutter speed of 500. So many of my photos lacked the crispness of yours because of it.

Did you see any Rhino? I rarely see photos of Rhino, but I thought Kruger had a decent Rhino population.

amy