Thanks Michael, sounds like you enjoyed it. How would you rate it compared with other camps you've visited?

Also, will you be sharing any photos?

Trip report Little Kwara and Lebala part 2.
After 3 lovely days it was time to revisit Lebala.
I had hired Steve Kgwatalala as my private guide. I had used Steve on 2 previous occasions and I believe that he is one of the best guides around.
The aim was mainly to see Cheetah and Wild Dogs.
Just as with Little Kwara they had had a lot of rain in January and there was still plenty of water in the Mopane woods.
The first night we went up north towards Lagoon Camp. We found the Lions (Lagoon pride) which was interesting for me as I had seen some of them as cubs 2 years ago. We started tracking the Cheetah (the 2 famous brothers, formerly 3) and with a little help from a Giraffe we soon found them. They were very interested in a Kudu but there was not enough cover so they finally lay down for the day. The next day we did a full day drive (13 hours). We quickly found the Lions and got some nice shots of them posing on a termite mound. We also saw a huge herd of Buffalo, 1000-1500. There was quite a distance between the Buffaloes and Lions so we expected the confrontation to happen later that night so we started looking for the Cheetahs. We met a non safari vehicle that had seen the Cheetahs 3 hours earlier but they were not able to give a very good description of the place, so Steve and Hector decide to backtrack the tracks of the truck. Based on this and some additional traditional tracking they found the Cheetah one hour later. I was driving the vehicle at that time and was allowed to take the vehicle right up to the 2 Cheetahs! This time they looked as they wanted to go for an Ostrich, something they have done before but again nothing!
Michael

Micael, welcome back!!! Glad you had a very good trip. Yes, Mel and Grant are awesome people....can't wait to see them again next month.

Glad you saw the 2 cheetah bros. I read one of the trip reports last month saying, one of the boys was limping a bit. Apparently, all well?

Any luck with the lagoon pack of dogs? Larger pack?

The elephant herds, still in the mopane then?

Hari

Trip report Little Kwara and Lebala part 3.
Back to find the Lions.
They had left the termite mound and were headed towards the Buffalo. I decided it would be a good idea to take a toilet break before we caught up with the Lions. We were in fairly short grass and Steve, Hector and I took a good look and decided it was safe to get out. I went straight behind the vehicle and Hector moved a little bit away on the left side of the vehicle. I was zipping my pants when Steve told us to get back in the vehicle. The Lions had been sleeping in the grass just 20 meters from where I was and were now looking curiously at me. A good lesson for always being careful in the bush.
The Lions did not look as if they were going to do anything so we left them for the night.
The next morning we went south and first thing we picked up the tracks of the 2 Cheetah brothers. They were heading straight for the Selinda after having spent 10 nights in the northern part of Kwando. During the night and morning they had travelled nearly 50 km! We also saw Lion tracks but decided to see if we could find the large pack of dogs known as the Selinda pack. We were not succesful so we responded to a radiocall that the Lions had killed a Buffalo on one of the Islands. We crossed deep water (one vehicle got stranded during the evening) and had a quick look at a male Lion sleeping next to the Buffalo that he and his brother had stolen from a pride of females.
The next day we did a full day drive again 13,5 hours looking for the Lagoon pack of dogs north of Lagoon camp deep in the mopane. We did a walk in the mopane to the old den but nothing. The dogs had been seen a few days prior and there was still no proof that they were denning yet. This is very late and may be caused by all the water aroung. Anyhow we did not find the dogs. However we did see a very large Caracal and 4 wild Cats on the way back.
The final morning we went down south to look for the large pack of dogs but got interrupted by a radio call that some Lions tracks were heading down south. Just after that we heard Buffaloes calling and went to investigate. The Lions were just behind and surprise. The Lagoobn pack had moved about 30km south in pursuit of the Buffalo. In the end however they ended up sleeping.
I had a wonderfuol week and although I did not see dogs or Leopard it was a very rewarding trip
Michael

PS I forgot to mention that we had a kill at Little Kwara that was not so nice to watch. The Lions were in a hunting mood and we were keeping a distance in order not to disturb them. Suddenly we saw them pouncing on something in the grass and went to investigate. It turned out that they had come across a Serval in the tall grass. They had injured the Serval and it kept screaming. The Lions tried to kill it but it kept sticking up its paws and the Lions did not want to mess with it. Eventually the Lions left. At that stage the Serval was almost dead

Kavey

Little Kwara is a very nice camp and I liked it a lot. It will however not compare to camps like Mombo or Kings pool but that is not the intention either. I did not go to Lagoon this time but I hear that their 2 latest tents are very much like the ones at Little Kwara so maybe Kwando Safaris eventually will upgrade all their tents?
Pictures will be online in about a week as I am off to Sweden for a few days.
Hari. The 2 Cheetah brothers are doing well and no injuries were visible. Lots of elephants at Lebala but fewer than expected. By the time you arrive more of the pans will be dry so you will probably see a lot more

Michael

Thanks, Michael....

Enjoy your Sweden trip

Hari

Trip report Little Kwara and Lebala part 4.
After seven days it was sad to leave Kwando. I feel very comfortable in their camps and the staff is wonderful.
I went to Jo`burg to stay with friends for a few nights.
I did a full day tour with professional guide and friend Liz Szabo.
First we went to see the Sterkfontain caves were they are digging out "Little foot" a 3,5 million year old skeleton of a "human".
From there we went to Lesidi cultural village, where they display different types of african tribal villages combined with singing, dancing and a traditional lunch. Quite touristy but actually good fun.
The next day I went to the Walter Sisulu Botanical gardens to watch the Black Eagles nest and a lot of different Sunbirds. Eventhough it is not a very good time to visit the gardens I can still recommend it. The surroundings are beautiful and there is a very nice waterfall in the park.
Michael

PS Birding at Kwando was very good and yielded 180 species for the 7 days including Rednecked Falcon, Longcrested Eagle, Bronzewinged Courser, Lesser Jacana, Wattled Crane + many of the Okavango specials.

Michael: thanks for the great trip report! Getting to be behind the wheel to approach the cheetah must have been a very fun and special highlight. Glad to hear those boys are doing well.

I can't remember -- is it the Lagoon Pack or Kwara pack of dogs that had the very late puppies last year, not out of the den until November if I recall correctly. If it was Lagoon I wonder if that has their cycle off of the norm.

Have a great visit to Sweden, I'm looking forward to seeing the pics.

You got to drive!? How exciting.

Your experience illustrates how elusive those wild dogs can be with their breeding and denning practices.

Some good cheetah activity, one of your goals. Lions swimming is fascinating too. Probably one of the fortunate byproducts of all that rain. The lion on the potty stop is a less fortunate sight.

Thanks for the report on Kwando camps.

Michael,

Thank you for sharing your wonderful report. It's always a pleasure to read what's going on in the Kwando properties.

I am looking forward to see your pictures.

I will be at Lebala for 10 nights at the end of September and if the gameviewing will be as good as it was in May, I will be more than happy. Normally Charles will be my guide again.


Greetings,

Johan

Michael,

Many thanks for that report! I was especially pleased to hear that the cheetah brothers are well and still eating up the miles (I now know my website is up to date as far as their careers are concerned). We've estimated their range is at least 80 kilometres, roughly Savute to Lagoon, and may be far in excess of that.

John

Bill,

Yes, it was the lagoon pack of dogs that denned deep in the mopane in November. They slipped away and changed dens probably a day or two prior to our jeep heading out to look for them.

Michael,

Who are the guides stationed at Little Kwara?

Hari

Michael -- Thanks so much for the report -- right now we have a reservation in early January for 3 nights at Kwara, 3 at Lebala, and 2 at Lagoon -- would you recommend we switch our 3 nights at Kwara to little Kwara?

Lisa,

I recommend it. Little Kwara only has 4 rooms compared to 8 at main camp. More intimate and relaxed.....plus, if you are looking for more luxuary at the same price, why not!!!

It appears as if the views from both camps are identical of the same flood plains.

Hari

Lisa

Little Kwara is more intimate than Kwara just as Hari says. It has 5 very nice tents and Kwara has 8. The arrangement as far as I understand it is that they can only use 12 of the 13 rooms at any given time. if you like the idea of a smaller camp you may consider changing but they are both very nice.
Hari I believe that Joe and Doctor are the "resident" guides of Little Kwara although they may switch around. Mothusi is now at Kwara. When I was at Little Kwara, Charles from Lebala was there as a private guide so Joe was at Kwara.
John, I believe that the Cheetah brothers range is more than 80 km. I would say that the do 50 km just within the Kwando concession. These animals are just fantastic to watch.
Johan,I met Charles at both Little Kwara and Lebala and he is doing fine. Although I have never had him as a guide I agree with you that he is very good.
Michael

Thanks Michael,

Harry and Monique at Lebala?

Hari

Hari

Harry and Monique are still at Lebala.
However they were on leave so I only met Monique briefly at the airstrip as I was leaving. Harry was going down to Kwara for a few days helping out making firebreaks.
Michael

Thanks, hopefully they will be around when i get to Lebala.

Hari

Hari,

Without Harry and Monique Lebala would be half as fun.

Greetings,

Johan

Johan,

I fully agree with you. They are both amazing people....i'm taking pictures from last trip, where my cousin Varun got along well with Monique's kids.

Hari

I wouldn't want them to compare to Mombo style tents - Mombo is the only one of the 6 paws I choose and that is for the game viewing - I'd be delighted if they reverted the tents back to the standard safari tents and dropped the prices - not that they will, of course.

I meant how did you find it compared in terms of service, game viewing, guiding, staff, location and public areas--- all those kinds of things.

MV, hope you don't mind my answering Kavey's question......

I think, Little K is just a stone's throw away from Kwara main camp, so game viewing will be identical (same routes etc etc). Kwara concession, in my experience is fantastic game-viewing. Last year, i saw all cats and a near miss of the dogs. Saw sable also. Kwara has plenty of lions including 3 nasty, huge-maned males!!!

Hari

Kavey

as Hari mentioned LK shares it game driving areas with Kwara. The concession is huge (1700 km2) so there is plenty of room. We never had more than 2 vehicles at any sighting.
Management at LK was great but as you know management can change over night at almost any camp. Kwando coordinates the food between all the camps so that you dont have to eat beef 3 days in a row if you alternate between camps. Food is good with lots of nice veggies and good desserts. Gameviewing takes priority over meals. If you are at a nice sighting you can lunch brought to the sighting or alternatively they will delay dinner. Two years ago I had one dinner at midnight!
Michael

Michael,

So if i'm out, i can hv some sandwitches or something brought to me from camps? I'm talking about from the AM drive....

I've requested for Spencer at Lagoon and Lebala and he is usually pretty accomodative....Doctor or Moses at LK, depending on who's available.

Thanks
Hari

Thanks both!

MV, this is one of the factors of Kwando that really appeals to me - that game drives really do take absolute priority.

Unfortunately I don't think we'll be returning to Southern Africa anytime soon - was hoping this year but it likely won't be before 2008. We just can't afford it at the moment though perhaps fortunes will change soon. Who knows?

Luckily, the upcoming India trip won't be too expensive - my parents are very kindly shouting us the flights - they go back and forth about 3 times a year plus visiting family in Florida once a year plus lots and lots of other trips so they've really built up the airmiles! That means our expenses for India will be pretty low for the safari as we're not staying in massively expensive places. Our biggest cost will be two internal flights. The rest we're doing by train which is very cheap. I'm somewhat regretting my impulse booking of a trip to Venice for our anniversary but am determined to do it on a budget too.

But Africa is always in my dreams...

Kavey,

Internally, within India with options thesedays like Air Deccan and Kingfisher etc etc., you dont need to spend a fortune on Jet airways etc etc.,

Hari

Hari

if something really exciting happens on the am drive you can typically have some sandwiches brought to you.
Depending on other guests wishes you may also be able to do all day drives. Check with the camp manager or guide.
Michael

Michael,

I'm going to hv a prvt vehicle.

Hari

Thanks Michael & Hari. We have asked to switch to Little Kwara and they are checking on availablility. We have not requested particular guides at any of the Kwando camps -- sounds like all of their guides are excellent and I am trusting we will be in good hands regardless. It is still 5 months away and I absolutely can't wait!!

Lisa,

Especially the more experienced guides are the ones you are looking for:
Doctor, Joe, Spencer and Charles.

Mothusi (very keen on his photography) and Steve Kgwatalala can only be booked as private guides normally.

Greetings,

Johan

ttt

Thanks Michael -- Enjoyed your pics -- Little K is available so we were were able to switch our reservation -- can't wait!

Hi Michael,

I just re-read your report, since i hv just returned.

I think Alberto's brother is Ras (now with WS at Vumbura)that you were referring to.

Nice report from your Joburg section also.

Hari

Hari

glad you liked my report.
I have always known him as Russ. I first met him at Lagoon and then later he moved to Kwara, but I do think that I heard that he moved to Vumbura.
Do you have any pictures of the male Lions from the Lagoon pride. In July there were 2 males following the pride and tha Lagoon Pride would not let them get close. Steve K thought it was in order to protect the young male in the pride. Therefor I was thinking that maybe the 2 males have killed the young one and taken over?
Michael

Michael,

There are two sub-adult male lions in the pride along with the four lionesses. I do hv pics of one of them. The other one is extra extra skittish. Ruster thinks he just joined the pride. I will put the picture up just now.

Hari

I was more interested in how it compares to WS' standard 5 paw camps than in the 6 paw camps... generally, with the exception of Mombo where there is no 5 paw camp in the vicinity, I don't feel any need to stay in 6 paw properties. But am more curious about how Kwando camps compare to WS 5 paw camps. Thanks!

Kavey,

Compare in terms of? The tents?

Hari

Michael (MV)

Lagoon Pride pics

Hari
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=kq1dbh2.vav2omu&x=0&y=qt1vr4

Micael,

Sorry, the pics arent the best. We took a long time tracking them down that afternoon. The lighting wasnt the best, but, you may atleast recognize them. There is a pic of one of the lionesses stalking the baby ele.

Hari

Hari

I am almost 100% sure that it the same male I saw (face markings are identical). I am glad he is still alive.
I also saw him back in 2004 when he was a cub.

Well, the tents themselves, the layout/ distance between the tents, the public areas, the food, the managers and other staff and so on. I.e. I have already read quite a lot about the game viewing and the guiding/ tracking issues but not as much about the nitty gritty details of the camps.

Michael,

That's good to hear. The other skittish guy i talk about seems to be of similar age. He bolts the moment he hears a car. Infact, when the pride was stalking, he didnt even join them....

Kavey,

The only WS camps i hv stayed at are Little Mombo, Kings Pool and Duba Plains and so i dont think i'm in a position to make a comparison between the two companies.

One of your questions refer to people at the camps. I think my report speaks for itself about the camp management/guides and trackers. Co-travellers i choose not to talk about as i mostly met very nice people who share mutual interests. I met a lot of Kwando regulars during my recent trip, including a 82 year old German gentleman who has been at Kwando every year since they opened camps. SO, obviously they have a product that works!!!

Hari

Kavey,

It's a very homely atmospehere at Kwando camps. Not pretentious, by any stretch. Food is very good and plentiful. Lunches/dinner etc are usually at their communal dining area. They plan their menu around your itinerary at their camps in such a way that, you dont hv to eat beef or chicken or whatever on two continuous nights. Lunches have nice salads and that i like a lot, as i cant eat too much prior to a game drive. They have other stuff too, like a cheese platter and either lamb chops or bar b que etc etc.,that i pass up at lunch time.

Shower area in all tents are outdoors. Layout of all camps are slightly different. In terms of the views from camp, the wide open flood plains from Lebala stands-out (To me) but people who like a good water view may well like Lagoon or Kwara better.

The most important thing- the Game viewing, guiding and tracking speak for themselves....

Hari

Kavey: I have limited experience at both but will try and make some comparisons based on stays at Kwara and Lebala and for W.S. Duba Plains and Duma Tau and I will reference Damaraland Camp (in Namibia for those who don't know) because it is good for the comparison and I know you have been there.

I felt the tent at Kwara is very comparable to the tents at Damaraland Camp in size, decor, and spacing. A little more basic than the Botswana 5 Paw camps and the tents are a good bit closer together and a little smaller. The common area at Kwara is very similar to the W.S. common area. Large lounge with nice furniture, open air, big view, long bar, help yourself refrigerator, standard small pool. Small gift shop that is fairly well stocked and on par if not slightly better than 5 paws I have been to. Kwara also has a little education kiosk with lots of skulls and plaster casts of animal tracks which I thought was cool to check out. There is also a great fire pit area next to the lounge and against the lagoon.

Lebala was a nice step up in luxury and I think compares fairly well with the 5 paws I have gone to. The tent is fairly spacious, about the same size as Duma Tau and a smidge bigger than Duba Plains. The tents are closer together than the 5 paws so you lose some privacy. In addition to an outdoor shower there are clawfoot tubs inside which is a very nice touch. I felt like the W.S. tents have a little nicer decor and cleaner feel but it is pretty minor compared to Lebala. Common areas are very comparable again. Very relaxing lounge with nice comfortable furniture and a great view. Terrific bar area with help yourself refrigerator, small pool and deck, a pretty extensive curio shop that exceeds the 5 paws that I have been to. A raised viewing hide again.

I definitely preferred the food at W.S. camps but Duba had amazing food when I was there. Again I think Damaraland Camp is a good comparison for Kwando food -- it is hardy basic fare and they do seem to offer more local kind of dishes or sides with their choices where as W.S. seems to try and have a little more flare. The food is good at Kwando but I prefer the W.S. camps. As Hari mentions though the food is very flexible at Kwando and I never felt like we had to be back for that which is a big plus for those who prioritize wildlife viewing above all else.

As for the staff I like the relaxed feel of Kwando a little better. At both the guides, managers, and barmen are very personable, etc but at Kwando I felt like everyone was a little more involved. At a lot of camps I have been to including in S.A. and Namibia the cooks and cleaning folks etc. often stay distant and give off the real servant kind of feel -- at Kwando it seemed like everyone was loose and happy to talk you which I really liked. It gave it more of a community feel as opposed to being close to 3 or 4 people and never talking to any other staff.

Hope that helps with a general feel. Hopefully someone who has stayed at more 5 paws can add their opinion. I'm one who would gladly sleep in a hole in the ground and eat peanut butter sandwiches every day if the wildlife viewing is great but I do enjoy comfort and I think the service and accomodation at all these camps is more than enough for most people.

Of course for those who really want a soft experience the Kwando camps may be just a little rough as are some of the more rustic 5 paws -- just depends on the specific camp.

Hello!!! The new Little Kwara tents are very different. You may find an older thread on here with pictures of the lounge, bed room etc etc., those tents are huge and have doors and not zippers like the other camps.

Only 5 roooms in camp. I stayed in tent number one. Baboons all over the place. There is a latch to lock the sliding door to your look-out deck in the room, as the baboons have learnt how to open it.

Hari