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TRIP REPORT: I Speak of Africa… (Botswana 22 June – 7 July 2006)

TRIP REPORT: I Speak of Africa… (Botswana 22 June – 7 July 2006)

Old Jul 28th, 2006, 02:59 PM
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TRIP REPORT: I Speak of Africa… (Botswana 22 June – 7 July 2006)

Hello everyone,

I kept waiting for things to quiet down a bit so I could write my trip report in one go, but it doesn’t look like that’s likely to happen anytime soon. I’ll try to post an instalment every couple of days…hopefully you’ll find that it’s worth the wait.

Unfortunately, my photos are currently stuck on my Epson P-4000 as there isn’t enough space on my hard drive to download them, but once that’s sorted I’ll post a link to them as well.

For reference, my itinerary was as follows:

22 June: Depart London on overnight Virgin Atlantic flight
23 June: Johannesburg (The Saxon)
24 – 27 June: Linyanti (Savuti Camp)
28 June – 2 July: Okavango Delta (Mombo Camp)
3 July: Linyanti (Kwando Lebala)
4 – 5 July: Linyanti (Kwando Lagoon)
6 – 7 July: Makgadikgadi Pans (Jack’s Camp)

For the benefit of trip report index compilers, the South Africa portion of my trip report will be posted separately. My itinerary for that portion of the trip was as follows:

8 July: Johannesburg (Ten Bompas)
9 – 10 July: Sabi Sands (Singita Ebony)
11 – 13 July: Sabi Sands (Mala Mala Sable Camp)
14 – 15 July: Sabi Sands (Londolozi Pioneer Camp)
16 July: Johannesburg (The Grace)

A few notes in the itinerary – those of you who are familiar with my postings and my ‘3-night-minimum stay’ rule will probably be surprised to see so many 2-night stays on this itinerary. When I’m travelling purely for pleasure, I definitely stick to the 3-night rule, but since this was a site inspection trip for Destiny Africa I did a couple of 2-nighters in order to visit some additional camps. With both Mombo and Singita on my itinerary everything had to be scheduled around their availability – the 1-night stay at Lebala was an artefact of scheduling as it wasn’t possible to get three nights at Lagoon or three nights at Jack’s.

You might also be surprised to see three Sabi Sands reserves (all neighbouring each other) – normally I’d prefer a longer stay at only one reserve, as IMO it’s a bit silly to stay two nights at one reserve and then go next door for another two nights, particularly when you’ll probably end up seeing a lot of the same animals as their territories cross reserve boundaries. That aside, seeing the Big Three of the Sabi Sand back-to-back was a rare experience , and absolutely fascinating.

Now on to the trip report!
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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 03:00 PM
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22 JUNE: A FILTER, A FILTER, MY KINGDOM FOR A FILTER!

About a week before I leave on safari I always promise myself that this time, things will be different…this time, I absolutely will not be up all night packing the night before I leave. Needless to say it never works, as some crisis or other always crops up, and there I was on the night of June 21…oh well, I don’t sleep much anyhow.

This time the crisis was photographic. The set of lovely B&W filters I had ordered from the US to replace my old Tiffens had still not arrived, and I had sold the Tiffens to a fellow photographer – in other words, I was facing a three-week safari with no protective UV filters on two out of three $1,000+ Canon L lenses. I spent most of the day before I left (when I should have been packing) attempting to source B&W filters in the UK, and had absolutely no joy – B&W filters might be made by a German company, but it’s much easier to find them in New York, thousands of miles from home, than it is to find them across the English channel.

By the time I realised that it was hopeless, it was also too late to go to London – and as I found out the following morning, there were no 77mm filters to be had in Oxford. However, a quick Google search (thank God for evening flights) located a number of camera shops in Joburg. I spent most of the afternoon before I left ringing them see if they had what I needed. For future reference, if you ever need camera gear and you’re in Joburg, head for Sandton City – there are three specialist photographic stores in the mall, and if they don’t have what you need in all likelihood it doesn’t exist in South Africa. I managed to locate a good supply of decent quality 77mm filters and arranged to pick them up the following morning.

Ah, the joys of on-line check-in – no queuing, no fuss, just drop your luggage and go. Being tired tends to make me a bit irrational, and I went a bit mad in the bookstore and bought way too many books to read on the plane…particularly ironic considering that I fell asleep almost as soon as we took off. I was on a bump compensation ticket (for staying an extra night in San Francisco when they needed my seat – it was painful, but someone had to do it) so I was in coach, but the plane was half empty and I was able to stretch out and sleep.
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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 03:12 PM
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Keep it coming! We (read my trip report for the "we" part) are looking at Botswana/Zambia for 2008 and Destiny Africa is on the UGL's radar.
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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 03:38 PM
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What a wonderful itinerary, I can hardly wait to hear the rest. Since this was a site inspection trip for Destiny Africa, were you able to sufficiently examine Mombo in only 5 days?
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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 03:43 PM
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Hello,

The Savuti and Mombo part of the trip was booked in my pre-DA days as my annual African holiday -- the rest of the trip was added on post-DA.

Personally, I could have done with another day or two at Mombo, but then who couldn't?

Cheers,
Julian
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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 03:51 PM
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23 JUNE: Johannesburg (The Saxon)
Johannesburg, Joburg, Jozi – whatever you call it, I’ll always associate it with that moment of arrival in Africa. Whilst returning Africa is always cause for celebration, spending any unnecessary time in Joburg International Airport is not, so I was happy to see the driver from The Saxon holding up a sign with my name on it. If you have the option, I’d highly recommend booking a car to meet you at the airport, particularly if you’re coming off a long flight from the US – being met by a friendly face is a much nicer start to your trip than having to fend off the scores of taxi touts who lay in wait in International Arrivals. Nothing repels them quite like saying, ‘I’ve got a car waiting’ – they’ll give up on you and search for easier prey.

The Saxon is located in Sandhurst, about 30-40 minutes from the airport in normal traffic and 10 minutes from Sandton City. Sandhurst is one of the poshest neighbourhoods in Joburg, populated by enormous mansions tucked away behind tall walls and imposing gates. The architecture is that uniquely South African modern sort – a bit like an Art Deco take on neo-classical, with a lot of tall stucco columns and imposing cornices. The Saxon fit this mould perfectly, with large square columns of granite-coloured stucco framing an immense solid wood gate. The only indication that it wasn’t a private home were the letters discreetly spelling out the name of the hotel. Past the gates, the road wound through spacious grounds carpeted with green grass and dotted with tall trees.

The main entrance follows the same artistic paradigm as the front gates – Art Deco neo-classical gigantism. To be honest, thus far I wasn’t that impressed from an aesthetic standpoint, though the number of friendly staff who swarmed around the car to welcome me was certainly impressive. But everything changed when I walked through the door…the atrium, which looks a little over the top on their website (http://www.saxon.co.za) is much nicer in reality – grand, yes, but warm and welcoming as well, with natural light flooding down from above. It also featured one of the most tasteful decorative uses of ostrich eggs that I’ve ever seen (anyone who has spent time in South Africa will know that this is no mean feat).

A leather folder lay open on the reception desk, with a check-in sheet ready for signing. I was about to sign on the dotted line when I realised that it wasn’t mine – though as the person concerned was staying in the Nelson Mandela Suite (where he wrote his autobiography) maybe I should have done!

On the way to my suite (a ‘standard’ Egoli Suite’) the porter told me a bit about the history of the hotel – definitely a first. The interior décor couldn’t be more different to the exterior – everything is in warm natural shades. The walls have a sponged parchment look, and the floors are natural slate and polished sandstone with the occasional rug. The theme is ‘Africa’ in a continental sense, and works of art from countries across Africa decorate the corridors. One of the things I noticed most was the number of little sitting areas scattered throughout the hotel – many places don’t have much common space outside of the restaurants and the lobby, but The Saxon has a number of small sitting areas to sit and relax.

My room was enormous, decorated In light birch, cherry wood, and earth tones. In addition to four-poster king-size bed there was a sitting area with a sofa and chairs and a separate dining area with a table and chairs. Outside there is a balcony (also with a table and chairs) overlooking the garden, which is really lovely – the porter told me that it contains trees from all over Africa, some of them 80 years old.
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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 04:24 PM
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I took a few (well, more than a few) pictures of my room, and then took a look around the rest of the hotel. The Saxon was originally a private residence, and you could still see that in the way things were laid out – instead of a single large ‘pool area’ with multiple pools there was one pool at the front and one at the back (next to a koi pond). Next to the koi pond there was a little deck where people could sit and relax. There was a lounge with a piano and comfortable sofas, as well as an olive bar (I have to admit that all olives taste alike to me). Unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to try the new spa, which looks like it would be a great way to ease the pain of jet-lag.

I had lunch in the spa dining room, but ordered off the main dining room menu (I was starving and spa menus are not designed for people with actual appetites). The food was excellent – hotel food is the butt of many jokes, but this was definitely not your regular hotel or your regular hotel food. The lavender crème brulee was brilliant.

After an afternoon meeting, I headed out to Sandton City to pick up my filters. I also picked up a replacement field guide (Wildlife of the Okavango) at Exclusive Books as I’d realised that I’d left mine at home. This is a great little pocket-sized book, ideal for trips to Botswana – I now have an extra copy, so if anyone coming through London would like to buy one off me for a substantial discount let me know.

I’d asked The Saxon to book me into Linger Longer for dinner, as I’d always wanted to try it and it was only 10 minutes from the hotel. Suffice it to say that I did not feel tempted to linger, longer or otherwise. The food was good, but not at the level I expected from a place with LL's reputation, and the atmosphere was very stuffy and old-fashioned. In retrospect, I would have been better off having dinner at The Saxon.

After dinner it was time for a nice relaxing soak in the tub (deep enough to float in) enjoying the Molton Brown toiletries before heading off to bed.
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Old Jul 29th, 2006, 12:39 AM
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Julian, I'd be interested in that book, please? I'll email you!

Glad you were able to source the replacement filters... hope the hoopla with your CC worked out too?

Looking forward to reading the rest!
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Old Jul 29th, 2006, 02:27 AM
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JUNE 24: JOHANNESBURG (THE SAXON) / LINYANTI (SAVUTI CAMP)

I overslept and almost missed out the delicious breakfast buffet, which would have been tragic. I’ve stayed in a lot of very nice hotels, and I have to say that this is one of the best breakfast buffets I’ve ever seen. Everything you could wish for was there – coming from England, where ripe fruits are seldom seen, I was almost overwhelmed by the choice presented here. There was the usual cereals, muesli, yogurt, pastries, and smoked salmon (all very high quality, especially the pastries – The Saxon has a separate pastry kitchen) – and more unusual offerings like tissue-paper thin slices of parma ham (rarely seen outside Italy) and oysters on the half-shell. At first the idea of eating oysters for breakfast was a bit odd, but I quickly adapted.

I’m often a bit sceptical of places with august reputations as I find that too many of them skate by on reputation alone, and as The Saxon has featured on a large number of ‘top hotels in the world’ lists I came in with high expectations. But this is one place that definitely lives up to the hype – I can see why Nelson Mandela chose it as a place to write his autobiography. It’s secluded and extremely restful, which must have been a great help to him whilst reliving some of the more harrowing incidents in his eventful life. The extensive grounds give it the feel of a country estate, and you’d never know you were in Johannesburg – but the conveniences of the city are only a short drive away, giving you the best of both worlds. The service is on par with the best places I’ve stayed, and the food is on par with some of the best restaurants in Joburg. A visit to the spa will be the icing on this particular cake. They are in the process of revamping their website, which will hopefully do the place justice in a way that the current one doesn’t.

All too soon it was time to head back to JNB for my Air Botswana flight to Maun. Air Botswana is a monopoly, and IMO a perfect example of why monopolies are evil. They only offer two flights per day from JNB to Maun, and the afternoon flight gets in so late that you’re very likely to miss your afternoon game drive if you’re going to the Linyanti (people who are headed to the Delta can usually make it) so everyone tries to get on the morning one, which is inevitably heavily overbooked – Wilderness had warned me to get to the airport early as people who check in late are often bumped onto the afternoon flight. Air Botswana also has a tendency to drop routes and change flight times at the drop of a hat, which is a real headache for those who have booked their trips a year in advance. Needless to say this is a continual source of extreme frustration for Wilderness and other safari companies, particularly in high season, as they then get stuck having to re-arrange people’s light air transfers at the last minute, not to mention having to cope with a lot of people who are very unhappy about this less than auspicious start to their long-anticipated safari. However, there is light at the end of the tunnel – the monopoly is scheduled to expire sometime in 2007, and Wilderness, CCA, and the other companies have been lobbying heavily for the market to be opened to other airlines. The airport at Maun is being upgraded to take larger planes as well, which should help.

Their airline may be pretty awful, but one of the reasons I love returning to Botswana year after year is the warm welcome from the people I’ve met there. While I was queuing for the flight, there were two young Batswana women in front of me who invited me to go ahead of them – not for any particular reason, but just because they were nice. I was happy to wait, but they insisted that I go first as a guest of their country. Definitely not your normal airline check-in queue behaviour!

Air Botswana has a rather quaint bag-to-passenger matching system – you’re bussed over to the plane, where before boarding you have to pick your bag out of the line-up. Bags which aren’t picked don’t get loaded on. Seeing the long row of identical black dufflebags made me glad for my ancient tweed Hartmann.

The flight was packed, about 85% safari-goers in safari gear to 15% businessmen and normal Batswana. It seemed like half the khaki in the US had been procured to outfit the large number of Americans. I sat next to a couple from Tennessee who knew surprisingly little about where they were going, despite being on a birding trip…at least they were headed to Sandibe and Nxabega, where they should have a decent chance of seeing Pel’s fishing owl as there are two pairs resident near Nxabega. It’s a shame that their agent didn’t take the time to tell them more about their trip.

There was a brat seated behind me who kept whining about something or other throughout the flight, despite his father’s attempts to shut him up. When he wasn’t whining, he was singing in a horrible tone-deaf and rhythmically deficient voice…a great advert for birth control. I prayed that he would not be headed to any camp where I would be staying.

If the bag-to-passenger matching system is quaint, the baggage delivery system when you arrive in Maun is even more so – there’s no conveyor belt, only two guys who literally cart the luggage over from the plane.

After a quick and painless passage through immigration, I was back in the familiar environs of the Maun arrivals lounge, populated by a swarm of people in khaki from the various safari companies who are there to meet their guests. I said hello to the nice woman from Wilderness, who remembered me from my last trip, and sat down with a nice bottle of cold water whilst my luggage was whisked away by a porter from Sefofane. Sefofane might be a small airline, but Air Botswana could learn a thing or two from them about service…
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Old Jul 29th, 2006, 03:38 AM
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It turned out that I would be the only person on the plane for the first leg of my flight, which was great for aerial photography. I got some very nice shots of the Delta, though as it turned out they were nothing compared to the shots I would later get from the helicopter at Mombo. There were two stops – one at Shinde, to pick up some British birders, and one at Lebala to pick up Autumn (Canechick) – which gave me a chance to get some closer shots on take-off and landing. I’d hoped to get a shot of the plane’s shadow moving over the Delta, but the angle wasn’t right.

When we landed at Savuti, we were met by Kane, who would be our (Autumn’s and my) private guide for the next three days. I’d hoped for Mr T, who had been my guide at Duma Tau last year, but Kane had been highly recommended by Autumn’s guide at Lebala which was a good sign. He was a brilliant guide, and I’d highly recommend him to anyone who is going to Savuti.

When packing for this trip, I’d found a copy of last year’s itinerary at the bottom of my bag, and was amazed to find that I had accidentally booked for almost exactly the same dates. This would turn out to be a blessing in disguise, as it definitely provided some perspective on what would turn out to be a most atypical experience in the Linyanti.

The unseasonal rains, which continued through May, have played havoc with the game-viewing in the Linyanti region. It’s almost as if the game-viewing season has shifted forward by a month or two – great news for those who are booked later in the year, but not so great for us. I usually travel in late June/early July, and I’ve usually had great game-viewing then, with huge herds of ellies as well as large amounts of plains game. This year, because there was still plenty of water in the seasonal pans, the ellies hadn’t started massing yet and the game was less concentrated than it would have been.

Thus it was particularly ironic that this was the year I had finally managed to get into Savuti Camp – I’ve been trying to get into this camp for several years, but it was always booked. The main reason, of course, was the woodpile hide and the chance to sit on it whilst surrounded by ellies. Any other year it would have been fine…but this year, the year I was finally there, there were no ellies in sight. Oh well…such are the vagaries of nature, and it just means I have an excuse to come back soon!

NB this isn’t to say that I didn’t have great game-viewing this time – I had brilliant predator sightings, including the best cheetah viewing I’ve had on any trip to date. We also witness the beginnings of a dynastic struggle amongst the lions of the Linyanti, and had amazing sightings of the smaller lesser-seen predators like caracal and African wild cat. My main focus when it comes to game-viewing is the predators, so for me this was a wonderful trip.

It was very special to see the Savuti Channel flowing – it hasn’t flowed for over 20 years, and I remember driving through some of the areas which are now covered with water. As the pans dry out, the water in the Channel will doubtless draw the animals down to drink, which should make for some great game-viewing.

Ellies or no ellies, Savuti Camp is an absolutely wonderful little camp, one of my favourites in Botswana. I’d recommend it for the sheer warmth and friendliness of the staff, even if they removed the woodpile hide tomorrow. It’s a very small camp with only 6 tents – I love small camps and this was no exception.

The tents at Savuti are elevated on wooden platforms and form a rough semi-circle around the woodpile hide and waterhole. They’re connected to each other and to the main lounge by a virtual maze of elevated walkways. We were in Tent 2, one of two tents with an outdoor loo and shower (the other is Tent 1, the honeymoon tent). You can watch the woodpile as you shower (the front of the room is covered with a sheet of reflective one-way plastic to preserve privacy and prevent drafts).

Our tent was a bit smaller than some of those I’ve stayed at in other 5-paw Wilderness camps (Duma Tau, LV) – Savuti is one of their older camps, and the newer ones tend to have slightly larger rooms. However, I learned from the camp managers that WS has plans to extensively refurbish all of the 5-paw camps to the same standard, so the rooms will be getting larger and will be acquiring both indoor and outdoor showers. There is talk of making the tents at Savuti into two-storey duplexes, with the bedroom upstairs and the bathroom downstairs, which should make for splendid views. The lounge is also being enlarged.

One nice thing about having both indoor and outdoor showers will be having a monkey-safe place to leave one’s toiletries – we were warned not to leave anything in our outdoor bathroom as the monkeys (and the resident cheeky baboon, Joe) tend to steal things left behind. After seeing the aftermath of a baboon tent-raid at LV when someone didn’t shut her door properly, I’ve learned not to underestimate the destructive power of primates.

We had requested a sleep-out in the hide, and after talking with the managers we decided to schedule it for tomorrow night – by that time we would have some sense for how cold it would be and whether we thought we’d be comfortable enough. I had wanted to do the sleep-out last year, but decided not to because of the cold (it’s also one thing that’s a lot less fun to do as a solo traveller than when travelling with a friend).

After tea, we headed out on our first game drive. There is nothing like being back in the bush, and just pulling out of camp always makes my heart lift. We’d heard that the wild dogs had been seen yesterday down in the southern end of the reserve, so we headed out to that area. Unfortunately, we didn’t find them (it was particularly unfortunate because we gave up a call to a sighting of the Savuti Boys to pursue them – though we would have ample opportunity to see the cheetahs later in the trip). We decided to come back the following morning.

Another group had located a lion pride, so we joined them for a wonderful sighting of a lioness and three one-year-old cubs. I got some great shots of them, particularly of one of the cubs – she had a very sweet expression, as young lionesses often do. We didn’t know it at the time, but these lions were about to be caught up in a dynastic struggle which would reshape lion society in the Linyanti. Right then they looked as if they didn’t have a care in the world.

We stopped at the Savuti Channel for sundowners and to take some shots of its miraculous flow – it was an awe-inspiring sight. It was hard to believe that this was the same area I had driven through last year. We saw a croc slide into the water and vanish without a trace – pretty scary.

As the night cooled down, the game-viewing heated up. We saw three African wild cats (who will always remind me of my first cat, KiKi, who had very similar colouring). Mice kept dashing out from under the vehicle, prompting Autumn to joke that the cats should follow us for an easy meal. We also had a wonderful viewing of a caracal, a first for me – this apricot-coloured cat is much more impressive in reality than in photos. She also gave us our first kill, stalking and pouncing on a mouse and devouring it.

That would have been more than enough for any night drive, but there was more to come. A train of elephants emerged out of the darkness like grey ghosts, crossing in eerie silence in front of our vehicle before fading into the night. There was one tiny baby who had to trot to keep up with the others, bringing an unexpected comical note to what was a very impressive sighting. Very close to camp we saw a bat-eared fox – it would turn out that there were a pair of foxes who lived in that particular area, and we would see them on most of nights - what a nice way to end a night drive!
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Old Jul 29th, 2006, 04:08 AM
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Wonderful report, Julian. Look forward to more --- and your photos!
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Old Jul 29th, 2006, 04:36 AM
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Julian:

Chapter I sounds wonderful. Can't wait to read more upon my return from Kenya (leave tonight).

Your statement about the weather having an effect on wildlife (elephant) sightings I believe is true this year many places in Africa. The experts at Amboseli tell me there aren't many eles. there now either. However, since Tsavo is still parched there are many there. Just depends on where they had a lot of rain.

Will enjoy reading about the rest of
your trip on my return.
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Old Jul 29th, 2006, 06:16 AM
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Hello,

Thanks for your comments - glad people are enjoying my report!

Cheers,
Julian
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Old Jul 29th, 2006, 06:44 AM
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Julian, very interesting, and looking forward to your photos.

I also saw my first (and only) caracal at Savuti, as well as my only aardwolf, in addition to one of my few servals and african wild cats (although I saw many wild cats at Kgalagadi earlier this month). I also saw lots of lions, and one wild dog that ran along side our vehicle for a quarter mile or so in the channel.
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Old Jul 29th, 2006, 07:03 AM
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Julian,

I like your style of writing....thanks

Hari
 
Old Jul 29th, 2006, 08:50 AM
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Fun and easy read Julian, many thanks.
regards - tom
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Old Jul 29th, 2006, 09:18 AM
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great report Julian! keep it coming!
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Old Jul 29th, 2006, 09:18 AM
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Great report and looking forward to the rest! We also enjoyed Mr. T at Duma Tau-he is incredibly knowledgable and it was a pleasure spending time with him.
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Old Jul 29th, 2006, 09:59 AM
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Great report, Julian, that wonderful night drive description of the eles gave me chills. Can't wait for the next installment.
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Old Jul 29th, 2006, 12:31 PM
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I'm really enjoying your report, Julian. Thanks!
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