Trip Report - Botswana Camping Safari - Jun/July-2008
Apr 11th, 2009, 05:28 PM
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Trip Report - Botswana Camping Safari - Jun/July-2008
Greetings. Reading about everyone’s experiences in preparing and going on Safari was very helpful for my wife and I in planning our first trip to Africa. We went in June/July 2008 so I want to provide some travel info and tips and tell you about our adventure. It was fabulous!
The Quick Report…
Who we are:
A 50’ish couple with no kids, who like to camp some, enjoy the outdoors, are easy going and know that traveling can be an adventure – where everything doesn’t necessarily go exactly as planned.
Itinerary:
From June 21 – July 1, 2008 – (Botswana winter) - we spent 10 days in Northern Botswana enjoying the Okavango Delta, Moremi, Savuti, and Chobe. Our Safari officially ended in Botswana, but we transferred to Zambia and went to Livingstone and Victoria Falls for an extra day.
Expenses:
We traveled with www.bushcampsafaris.com on their 10 day safari. It is a serviced (non-participatory) camping safari – so they do the camp setup, cooking, cleanup, etc. On the 10 day safari, we saw the places we wanted to see at a good price. (We could not afford this trip if we stayed in the high end camps that some safari’s offer) BushCamp can also customize safaris as needed. We’d go with BushCamp again.
Equipment:
They provided tents, sleeping bags, cots (10” off ground), mattress (1.5” thick), chairs, eating utensils, bush toilet, and even a shower on many days.
Food:
Very good food for camping/over-the-campfire food. We had for Breakfast: Cereals, yogurt, (most days) and eggs/bacon/ham (4 days), Lunch: pasta salad, cheese, lunch meat, chips, bread, fruit, occasional larger lunch if in camp (lasagna). Dinner: pork chops, steak, fish & chips, chicken, sausage, soups, lamb, stew, fresh veggies or salad, bread, etc. Afternoon tea & biscuits.
Beverages:
Tea, Coffee, some juice – most of the time. Could purchase water, beer, wine, sodas, etc during trip (in Maun & Kasane) and BushCamp would transport & keep cool.
Vehicle:
Toyota Land Cruiser. Seating for 7 in back – but they only take 6 per vehicle so everyone gets a “window” seat (there aren’t any windows!). No windows – that means in winter – it can be cold sometimes. But warms up nicely during the day.
Pictures: .
BushCamp web site has a Photo section so you can see what others have experienced.
Animals:
Lion pride (munching on Water Buffalo), Zebra, Elephant, Giraffe, Hippo, Monkey, Baboon, Water Buffalo, Leopard, Wildebeest, Jackal, Warthog, Kudu, Reedbuck, Waterbuck, Steenbok, Impala, Mongoose, Wild Dog, Ostrich, Tsessebe, a ba-zillion birds, and more. (Stories below)
What you should bring:
Malaria meds (not Larium), flashlight, enough batteries for the entire trip (for cameras, flashlights, etc), binoculars, towel, warm clothing/gloves, (if going in winter-June July, etc), sunglasses, sunscreen, hat, light-weight nylon duffel bag (~10”x20”+), and typical clothes. Bring warm clothes, a couple mornings – when traveling at 20+ mph, we wore 3 layers, gloves, hats, 2 socks, – it can be really cold in an open vehicle. Be prepared – or be cold. Sleeping – usually bags were warm enough but a couple times needed light long underwear/shirt. If you don’t mind cold weather, you may be OK with less layers.
Travel light – you’ll be happier if you only have to track/move one bag around. You can rinse/wash clothes by hand if necessary . We follow the Rick Steves’ pack light philosophies and use his Convertible Carry-On bag. For Air Botswana (the ONLY airline flying to Maun) - carry on luggage limit is 15 pounds. The limit for checked in luggage is 44 pounds.
Money:
The US Dollar can easily be changed to Botswana Pula. Travelers checks are a touch harder – and you must have your passport with you for most money transactions. Goods and tips are best paid in Botswana Pula – and you can exchange for Pula in Maun and Kasane. In Zambia, the US Dollar works best. Don’t change your money to Zambian Kwacha since you probably won’t be there for long. Be certain you have newer style 1’s, 5’s, 10’s. However, it is possible in some banks and Exchanges to change large US bills for smaller US ones. However, in Zambia, locals prefer larger US bills if possible – they get a better exchange rate when they change them to Kwacha.
Bring cash, traveler checks, ATM, and Credit Card = the more options, the better. While in a bank the person in front of me had an ATM that wouldn’t work. She had to use a Credit Card cash advance and it cost her about $50. in fees.
Patience
Remember that not everything moves at exact times or on exact schedules. Travel with an open mind for slight variations. We awoke one morning to a flat tire – that was quickly changed/fixed. We had one campsite change and a boat change – but each was quickly handled within about 1 hour. Some changes were a bonus (a free flight over the Okavango Delta flying back to Maun, an upgraded Chobe River cruise). It all makes for a memorable trip.
More Details…
This was our first trip to Africa – and it was amazing! We started researching 2 years before our trip, reading forums, looking at destinations, safari companies, etc. We narrowed things down to Kenya, Botswana, and/or South Africa. We knew we had limited vacation time so we only had 16-17 days to be somewhere in Africa (plus 4 days travel – USA-California to Africa). We certainly wish we could stay 2-3-4 months, but had to come home & keep working to pay for this journey.
After much thought, we decided on Botswana. We researched lots of different safari companies and ended up at BushCampSafaris because it had a good schedule, balance of activities we wanted to do, was a serviced camping safari, at the right price. We also decided we would do Kruger National Park (KNP) for 5 days as a self-guided tour after Botswana. KNP is somewhat like a US National Park (think Yosemite or Yellowstone) – there are plenty of places to stay and it is VERY easy to get around, as long as you can drive on the other side of the road (compared to the USA). We made KNP lodging reservations 9 months ahead of time, rented a car in Johannesburg, and did KNP. (We will probably have a separate posting for that portion of our trip.)
Okavango Delta
We arrived in Maun around 3PM and stayed the first night on the outskirts of Maun in Audi Camp (http://www.okavangocamp.com/audi-camp.htm). A nice camp with pool (cold in winter), bar, restaurant, showers, etc. BushCamp paid for dinner and breakfast in the restaurant (but alcohol drinks were on us).
We left the next morning for an island in the Okavanga. Almost all mornings are early – 6-6:30AM. We had to pack what we needed for 3 days into a smaller 10x20” duffle bag that we brought. There is not enough room in the Delta - on boats, mokoros, planes - for large bags. Our regular bags were safely locked up by BushCamp awaiting our return. We went via speedboat which was very fun and took about 4.5 hours. It allowed us to see lots of the Delta. It was COLD in the morning since we were moving along at ~20 mph at times, but it does warm up nicely as the day progressed. Most days on this trip were around 75 for a high. Sometimes in the sun, it even felt hotter. There usually is no rain during this time of year (we had none). The mornings can be cool – sometimes down to the low 40s. Add wind-chill – and it can be very cold.
We arrived at a large island/camp, that was about a 5 minute walk from a local village (Xaxaba village). We had a cook (Grace) and Camp Assistant (Docs) who set things up, kept things going, and kept us fed and happy. It was amazing what Grace could create from her campfire cooking. We were pretty well fed the whole trip (much better than I do when I go camping at home).
For 3 days we journeyed out in the early morning, then again in late afternoon. We rode in a mokoro canoe (hey… those things are a little tipsy – you think you might tip and go for a swim, but, the polers always keep you upright). We’d canoe to local islands about 30-60 minutes away. Then our guide (Kitso) and Polers (Smooth & Bale) would take us on a walk for a few hours. It was so interesting to learn about all the animals, vegetation, and life in the Delta from our guides. Kitso had gone to guide school and passed tests to be our guide – he was very knowledgeable and his abilities kept us safe while in the Delta. We saw many birds, elephants, warthogs, giraffes, hippos, baboons, impalas, lechwes, etc.
On the last afternoon we visited the village and learned about life for the 300 people living there. No power (a few solar batteries for their CD players) and a simple way of life. They sell baskets and weavings to help provide for their village – as well as provide guides and polers to various camps in the area.
To Moremi
Next morning it was pack everything and take the canoes about 1 hour away to the airport. This was a welcome surprise since we originally were supposed to return by speedboat. BushCamp had some other need for the boat so decided to fly us back to Maun (no extra fee). It was wonderful to see the Delta from the air. We arrived in Maun, re-packed, stocked up on beverages, had lunch at a restaurant (paid for by BushCamp), and were on our way to Moremi (about a 4 hour trip). We were in the trusty Land Cruiser for the rest of the trip. There were 6 of us altogether (my wife and I, a nice couple and their 2 children – BushCamp allows kids 12 and above), so we each had a window seat. (BushCamp usually only allows 6 people per vehicle – even though they can seat 8). FYI- the back seats are the bumpiest on long trips. Most of the roads in Botswana are dirt/sand and can be VERY bumpy at times. We had a new guide/driver – Kaizer – who was a great guide, driver, mechanic, and jack of all trades (important when you’re in the middle of nowhere).
We arrived in Moremi at Xakanaxa campsite and stayed for 2 nights. We really enjoyed this area. The wildlife was incredible. Our best find was a pride of lions snacking on a water buffalo (2 males, ~5 females, ~4 cubs). It was so fascinating we sat and watched for a couple hours. Seeing all of these animals in the wild is completely different than a day at the zoo. Their power and grace becomes so much more apparent when they are 40 feet away (and sometimes – only 5 feet away – talk about a thrill!). We saw lots of other animals as well. There would usually be a drive each morning, a lunch/afternoon break of 2-3 hours (depending on how long we wanted to be out) and then an afternoon-til-sunset drive (sun sets around 6 PM). Also had elephants in camp (5 feet from tents), and a leopard walk through the campsite (about 40 feet away) – which adds a whole new angle to camping.
On to Savuti
It was a bumpy 7.5 hour trip from Moremi to Savuti. It was still a memorable sight-seeing trip with hippos, lions, giraffes, elephants, and a few other sightings along the way.
Savuti camp was dry. No showers available. On the afternoon drive, had a close up adventure with 5 Wild Dogs. They came within 5 feet of the vehicle, then took off. We followed for awhile, lost them, then an Impala comes racing by our vehicle, and the Wild Dogs chasing shortly after. We tried following but the Dogs did not seem to catch the Impala, and they headed off into the sunset. Also saw other animals – ostrich, jackal, mongoose, steenbok, birds, tsessebe, wildebeest, elephant, and more.
On to Kasane / Chobe
A 5 hour drive to Chobe on another bumpy road – but the last 50 km was paved. I was in the back seat and on the bumpy parts was bounced 4+ inches off the seat a few times. What a ride.
When we arrived in Chobe, found our campsite reservation was given away. In talking with some people, looks like they overbook during busy periods (hey… just like airlines). It was the busy season – South African schools were on winter break and lots of people were up in Botswana on holiday/vacation. After searching and phone calls with BushCamp office, our guide found another campsite in about an hour.
During drives in Chobe, we saw hippos, impala, elephants, giraffes, kudu, and more.
One highlight was the afternoon/sunset river cruise on Chobe River. (we also had booking troubles with it, but after about 1 hour, it was all handled and we went on our cruise that afternoon). The boat could get VERY close to the animals –and there were all different kinds – elephants, hippos, water buffalo, crocodiles, birds, giraffes, and more. Very spectacular.
Livingston
Warning: Even though BushCamp says Day 10 is leave for Zambia and Livingstone and even delivery to airport – this is not true. BushCamp provides a meeting with people on the Zambia side of the river (we stayed at Livingstone Safari Lodge – and they met us). The only way into Zambia is ferries across the river (it took us a couple hours to get across) . There were a number of new fees/charges at this point. We paid $32. pp to get delivered to the Lodge in Zambia. We were staying an extra night at the Lodge, but no one advised us of the transportation fee. It was $20. the next day to get us to the Livingstone airport. So verify the whole Zambia/Livingstone portion of your trip for costs and itinerary if you’re going.
Going to Zambia got more expensive. It is now $135. US cash (exact change) per person to get into Zambia (entry fee). However, it was much cheaper to fly back from Livingstone than Kasane – so paying the $135. was worth it. Some are going in to Zimbabwe to see the falls, but that is your choice since there is unrest there.
Taxi rides – usually $30 US to Livingston airport, cheaper getting around town.
Bargain/haggle for everything - taxis, goods bought – even at stores at the airport.
Falls Tour – if your lodge/hotel offers a “tour” of the falls, just say no. Get a cab to take you and drop you off at the Falls ticket/entrance gate. It’s $10. US per person to get in. The taxi will probably be around $10-15 each way. Our hotel charged us $70 – and the guide/taxi – usually just drops you at the Falls entrance and lets you walk around.
Victoria Falls is a must see. Bring a poncho – or a change of clothes. It’s worth going across the bridge, getting completely wet, and seeing the falls from different angles. They are so spectacular, with rainbows and misty views everywhere. There is some hiking. You can easily spend 3 hours & more if you hike most of the trails.
If you’re looking for trinkets/souvenirs, downtown Livingstone has better prices than the items sold at the Falls.
Change:
If I changed anything for the 10 day safari, it might be to have one less day in the Delta and add that day to Savuti. It is possible to see more animals while in safari vehicle since you can cover more ground than by walking in the Delta. But this is a minor detail – there was plenty to see everywhere. We’d go again in winter – perhaps a bit more towards spring if possible. The days were very pleasant and the cold was mostly tolerable. I just can’t imagine how hot it must be during the summer or rainy season.
In closing:
We’ve had some people say that this whole trip seemed “risky” and/or dangerous. Sure, there is some risk and people have been injured/died in Africa. But, 40,000 people die in auto accidents in the USA every year. Put in perspective, we’re willing to take the small risks to see such a remarkable part of the world, and we’d do it again tomorrow (if we could only afford it).
So go – enjoy – and have the trip of a lifetime. We did!
The Quick Report…
Who we are:
A 50’ish couple with no kids, who like to camp some, enjoy the outdoors, are easy going and know that traveling can be an adventure – where everything doesn’t necessarily go exactly as planned.
Itinerary:
From June 21 – July 1, 2008 – (Botswana winter) - we spent 10 days in Northern Botswana enjoying the Okavango Delta, Moremi, Savuti, and Chobe. Our Safari officially ended in Botswana, but we transferred to Zambia and went to Livingstone and Victoria Falls for an extra day.
Expenses:
We traveled with www.bushcampsafaris.com on their 10 day safari. It is a serviced (non-participatory) camping safari – so they do the camp setup, cooking, cleanup, etc. On the 10 day safari, we saw the places we wanted to see at a good price. (We could not afford this trip if we stayed in the high end camps that some safari’s offer) BushCamp can also customize safaris as needed. We’d go with BushCamp again.
Equipment:
They provided tents, sleeping bags, cots (10” off ground), mattress (1.5” thick), chairs, eating utensils, bush toilet, and even a shower on many days.
Food:
Very good food for camping/over-the-campfire food. We had for Breakfast: Cereals, yogurt, (most days) and eggs/bacon/ham (4 days), Lunch: pasta salad, cheese, lunch meat, chips, bread, fruit, occasional larger lunch if in camp (lasagna). Dinner: pork chops, steak, fish & chips, chicken, sausage, soups, lamb, stew, fresh veggies or salad, bread, etc. Afternoon tea & biscuits.
Beverages:
Tea, Coffee, some juice – most of the time. Could purchase water, beer, wine, sodas, etc during trip (in Maun & Kasane) and BushCamp would transport & keep cool.
Vehicle:
Toyota Land Cruiser. Seating for 7 in back – but they only take 6 per vehicle so everyone gets a “window” seat (there aren’t any windows!). No windows – that means in winter – it can be cold sometimes. But warms up nicely during the day.
Pictures: .
BushCamp web site has a Photo section so you can see what others have experienced.
Animals:
Lion pride (munching on Water Buffalo), Zebra, Elephant, Giraffe, Hippo, Monkey, Baboon, Water Buffalo, Leopard, Wildebeest, Jackal, Warthog, Kudu, Reedbuck, Waterbuck, Steenbok, Impala, Mongoose, Wild Dog, Ostrich, Tsessebe, a ba-zillion birds, and more. (Stories below)
What you should bring:
Malaria meds (not Larium), flashlight, enough batteries for the entire trip (for cameras, flashlights, etc), binoculars, towel, warm clothing/gloves, (if going in winter-June July, etc), sunglasses, sunscreen, hat, light-weight nylon duffel bag (~10”x20”+), and typical clothes. Bring warm clothes, a couple mornings – when traveling at 20+ mph, we wore 3 layers, gloves, hats, 2 socks, – it can be really cold in an open vehicle. Be prepared – or be cold. Sleeping – usually bags were warm enough but a couple times needed light long underwear/shirt. If you don’t mind cold weather, you may be OK with less layers.
Travel light – you’ll be happier if you only have to track/move one bag around. You can rinse/wash clothes by hand if necessary . We follow the Rick Steves’ pack light philosophies and use his Convertible Carry-On bag. For Air Botswana (the ONLY airline flying to Maun) - carry on luggage limit is 15 pounds. The limit for checked in luggage is 44 pounds.
Money:
The US Dollar can easily be changed to Botswana Pula. Travelers checks are a touch harder – and you must have your passport with you for most money transactions. Goods and tips are best paid in Botswana Pula – and you can exchange for Pula in Maun and Kasane. In Zambia, the US Dollar works best. Don’t change your money to Zambian Kwacha since you probably won’t be there for long. Be certain you have newer style 1’s, 5’s, 10’s. However, it is possible in some banks and Exchanges to change large US bills for smaller US ones. However, in Zambia, locals prefer larger US bills if possible – they get a better exchange rate when they change them to Kwacha.
Bring cash, traveler checks, ATM, and Credit Card = the more options, the better. While in a bank the person in front of me had an ATM that wouldn’t work. She had to use a Credit Card cash advance and it cost her about $50. in fees.
Patience
Remember that not everything moves at exact times or on exact schedules. Travel with an open mind for slight variations. We awoke one morning to a flat tire – that was quickly changed/fixed. We had one campsite change and a boat change – but each was quickly handled within about 1 hour. Some changes were a bonus (a free flight over the Okavango Delta flying back to Maun, an upgraded Chobe River cruise). It all makes for a memorable trip.
More Details…
This was our first trip to Africa – and it was amazing! We started researching 2 years before our trip, reading forums, looking at destinations, safari companies, etc. We narrowed things down to Kenya, Botswana, and/or South Africa. We knew we had limited vacation time so we only had 16-17 days to be somewhere in Africa (plus 4 days travel – USA-California to Africa). We certainly wish we could stay 2-3-4 months, but had to come home & keep working to pay for this journey.
After much thought, we decided on Botswana. We researched lots of different safari companies and ended up at BushCampSafaris because it had a good schedule, balance of activities we wanted to do, was a serviced camping safari, at the right price. We also decided we would do Kruger National Park (KNP) for 5 days as a self-guided tour after Botswana. KNP is somewhat like a US National Park (think Yosemite or Yellowstone) – there are plenty of places to stay and it is VERY easy to get around, as long as you can drive on the other side of the road (compared to the USA). We made KNP lodging reservations 9 months ahead of time, rented a car in Johannesburg, and did KNP. (We will probably have a separate posting for that portion of our trip.)
Okavango Delta
We arrived in Maun around 3PM and stayed the first night on the outskirts of Maun in Audi Camp (http://www.okavangocamp.com/audi-camp.htm). A nice camp with pool (cold in winter), bar, restaurant, showers, etc. BushCamp paid for dinner and breakfast in the restaurant (but alcohol drinks were on us).
We left the next morning for an island in the Okavanga. Almost all mornings are early – 6-6:30AM. We had to pack what we needed for 3 days into a smaller 10x20” duffle bag that we brought. There is not enough room in the Delta - on boats, mokoros, planes - for large bags. Our regular bags were safely locked up by BushCamp awaiting our return. We went via speedboat which was very fun and took about 4.5 hours. It allowed us to see lots of the Delta. It was COLD in the morning since we were moving along at ~20 mph at times, but it does warm up nicely as the day progressed. Most days on this trip were around 75 for a high. Sometimes in the sun, it even felt hotter. There usually is no rain during this time of year (we had none). The mornings can be cool – sometimes down to the low 40s. Add wind-chill – and it can be very cold.
We arrived at a large island/camp, that was about a 5 minute walk from a local village (Xaxaba village). We had a cook (Grace) and Camp Assistant (Docs) who set things up, kept things going, and kept us fed and happy. It was amazing what Grace could create from her campfire cooking. We were pretty well fed the whole trip (much better than I do when I go camping at home).
For 3 days we journeyed out in the early morning, then again in late afternoon. We rode in a mokoro canoe (hey… those things are a little tipsy – you think you might tip and go for a swim, but, the polers always keep you upright). We’d canoe to local islands about 30-60 minutes away. Then our guide (Kitso) and Polers (Smooth & Bale) would take us on a walk for a few hours. It was so interesting to learn about all the animals, vegetation, and life in the Delta from our guides. Kitso had gone to guide school and passed tests to be our guide – he was very knowledgeable and his abilities kept us safe while in the Delta. We saw many birds, elephants, warthogs, giraffes, hippos, baboons, impalas, lechwes, etc.
On the last afternoon we visited the village and learned about life for the 300 people living there. No power (a few solar batteries for their CD players) and a simple way of life. They sell baskets and weavings to help provide for their village – as well as provide guides and polers to various camps in the area.
To Moremi
Next morning it was pack everything and take the canoes about 1 hour away to the airport. This was a welcome surprise since we originally were supposed to return by speedboat. BushCamp had some other need for the boat so decided to fly us back to Maun (no extra fee). It was wonderful to see the Delta from the air. We arrived in Maun, re-packed, stocked up on beverages, had lunch at a restaurant (paid for by BushCamp), and were on our way to Moremi (about a 4 hour trip). We were in the trusty Land Cruiser for the rest of the trip. There were 6 of us altogether (my wife and I, a nice couple and their 2 children – BushCamp allows kids 12 and above), so we each had a window seat. (BushCamp usually only allows 6 people per vehicle – even though they can seat 8). FYI- the back seats are the bumpiest on long trips. Most of the roads in Botswana are dirt/sand and can be VERY bumpy at times. We had a new guide/driver – Kaizer – who was a great guide, driver, mechanic, and jack of all trades (important when you’re in the middle of nowhere).
We arrived in Moremi at Xakanaxa campsite and stayed for 2 nights. We really enjoyed this area. The wildlife was incredible. Our best find was a pride of lions snacking on a water buffalo (2 males, ~5 females, ~4 cubs). It was so fascinating we sat and watched for a couple hours. Seeing all of these animals in the wild is completely different than a day at the zoo. Their power and grace becomes so much more apparent when they are 40 feet away (and sometimes – only 5 feet away – talk about a thrill!). We saw lots of other animals as well. There would usually be a drive each morning, a lunch/afternoon break of 2-3 hours (depending on how long we wanted to be out) and then an afternoon-til-sunset drive (sun sets around 6 PM). Also had elephants in camp (5 feet from tents), and a leopard walk through the campsite (about 40 feet away) – which adds a whole new angle to camping.
On to Savuti
It was a bumpy 7.5 hour trip from Moremi to Savuti. It was still a memorable sight-seeing trip with hippos, lions, giraffes, elephants, and a few other sightings along the way.
Savuti camp was dry. No showers available. On the afternoon drive, had a close up adventure with 5 Wild Dogs. They came within 5 feet of the vehicle, then took off. We followed for awhile, lost them, then an Impala comes racing by our vehicle, and the Wild Dogs chasing shortly after. We tried following but the Dogs did not seem to catch the Impala, and they headed off into the sunset. Also saw other animals – ostrich, jackal, mongoose, steenbok, birds, tsessebe, wildebeest, elephant, and more.
On to Kasane / Chobe
A 5 hour drive to Chobe on another bumpy road – but the last 50 km was paved. I was in the back seat and on the bumpy parts was bounced 4+ inches off the seat a few times. What a ride.
When we arrived in Chobe, found our campsite reservation was given away. In talking with some people, looks like they overbook during busy periods (hey… just like airlines). It was the busy season – South African schools were on winter break and lots of people were up in Botswana on holiday/vacation. After searching and phone calls with BushCamp office, our guide found another campsite in about an hour.
During drives in Chobe, we saw hippos, impala, elephants, giraffes, kudu, and more.
One highlight was the afternoon/sunset river cruise on Chobe River. (we also had booking troubles with it, but after about 1 hour, it was all handled and we went on our cruise that afternoon). The boat could get VERY close to the animals –and there were all different kinds – elephants, hippos, water buffalo, crocodiles, birds, giraffes, and more. Very spectacular.
Livingston
Warning: Even though BushCamp says Day 10 is leave for Zambia and Livingstone and even delivery to airport – this is not true. BushCamp provides a meeting with people on the Zambia side of the river (we stayed at Livingstone Safari Lodge – and they met us). The only way into Zambia is ferries across the river (it took us a couple hours to get across) . There were a number of new fees/charges at this point. We paid $32. pp to get delivered to the Lodge in Zambia. We were staying an extra night at the Lodge, but no one advised us of the transportation fee. It was $20. the next day to get us to the Livingstone airport. So verify the whole Zambia/Livingstone portion of your trip for costs and itinerary if you’re going.
Going to Zambia got more expensive. It is now $135. US cash (exact change) per person to get into Zambia (entry fee). However, it was much cheaper to fly back from Livingstone than Kasane – so paying the $135. was worth it. Some are going in to Zimbabwe to see the falls, but that is your choice since there is unrest there.
Taxi rides – usually $30 US to Livingston airport, cheaper getting around town.
Bargain/haggle for everything - taxis, goods bought – even at stores at the airport.
Falls Tour – if your lodge/hotel offers a “tour” of the falls, just say no. Get a cab to take you and drop you off at the Falls ticket/entrance gate. It’s $10. US per person to get in. The taxi will probably be around $10-15 each way. Our hotel charged us $70 – and the guide/taxi – usually just drops you at the Falls entrance and lets you walk around.
Victoria Falls is a must see. Bring a poncho – or a change of clothes. It’s worth going across the bridge, getting completely wet, and seeing the falls from different angles. They are so spectacular, with rainbows and misty views everywhere. There is some hiking. You can easily spend 3 hours & more if you hike most of the trails.
If you’re looking for trinkets/souvenirs, downtown Livingstone has better prices than the items sold at the Falls.
Change:
If I changed anything for the 10 day safari, it might be to have one less day in the Delta and add that day to Savuti. It is possible to see more animals while in safari vehicle since you can cover more ground than by walking in the Delta. But this is a minor detail – there was plenty to see everywhere. We’d go again in winter – perhaps a bit more towards spring if possible. The days were very pleasant and the cold was mostly tolerable. I just can’t imagine how hot it must be during the summer or rainy season.
In closing:
We’ve had some people say that this whole trip seemed “risky” and/or dangerous. Sure, there is some risk and people have been injured/died in Africa. But, 40,000 people die in auto accidents in the USA every year. Put in perspective, we’re willing to take the small risks to see such a remarkable part of the world, and we’d do it again tomorrow (if we could only afford it).
So go – enjoy – and have the trip of a lifetime. We did!
Apr 11th, 2009, 07:01 PM
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Interesting report, thanks for sharing.
It is always great to read about someone's cheaper option for safari, especially in Botswana. Some of the prices are just over the top. Are you planning another trip yet?
It is always great to read about someone's cheaper option for safari, especially in Botswana. Some of the prices are just over the top. Are you planning another trip yet?
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