Trip Report Botswana and Mozambique May 2007
May 26th, 2008, 10:38 PM
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Trip Report Botswana and Mozambique May 2007
This was our first trip to Africa in 2007. All I can say is WOW. I am now hooked and have to go back. The following was our itinerary so people can decide whether it is of interest to them. I will then do the report in sections.
May 27 Flight from Sydney to Johannesburg. Overnight at Metcourt.
May 28/29/30 Victoria Falls Hotel.
May31 & June1 Chobe Chilwero
June2 Selinda walking trails Mokoba
June 3 Selinda walking trails Tswhene
June 4/5 Zibialianja Camp
June 6/7 Baines Camp
June 8/9 Kanana Camp
June 10/11/12 Chiefs Camp
June 13/14 Metcourt Johannesburg
June 15 – 24 Quilalea Island Mozambique
June 25 Flight from Johannesburg to Sydney
It was a fabulous trip. Everything was well organised and there were no major problems. As it was our first trip we did it through our local travel agent who went through an African specialist, Wildlife Safaris in Perth, who had to go through two ground operators in Africa, Journey Beyond for the Southern Africa portion and another, can’t remember the name for the Mozambique portion. We probably paid dearly for this but as it was our first trip to Africa we felt comfortable doing it this way. The next holiday to Africa will be different.
May 27 Flight from Sydney to Johannesburg. Overnight at Metcourt.
May 28/29/30 Victoria Falls Hotel.
May31 & June1 Chobe Chilwero
June2 Selinda walking trails Mokoba
June 3 Selinda walking trails Tswhene
June 4/5 Zibialianja Camp
June 6/7 Baines Camp
June 8/9 Kanana Camp
June 10/11/12 Chiefs Camp
June 13/14 Metcourt Johannesburg
June 15 – 24 Quilalea Island Mozambique
June 25 Flight from Johannesburg to Sydney
It was a fabulous trip. Everything was well organised and there were no major problems. As it was our first trip we did it through our local travel agent who went through an African specialist, Wildlife Safaris in Perth, who had to go through two ground operators in Africa, Journey Beyond for the Southern Africa portion and another, can’t remember the name for the Mozambique portion. We probably paid dearly for this but as it was our first trip to Africa we felt comfortable doing it this way. The next holiday to Africa will be different.
May 27th, 2008, 12:23 AM
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Here we go. Hope it works. Sorry if it is long winded but I have to admit it is almost like being there again, remembering every detail and I am really enjoying writing it.
May 27th Flight from Sydney to Johannesburg
We were up at 4.30am and drove the hire car from Canberra to Sydney, dropped it off and checked in by 8am for the 10am Qantas flight to Johannesburg. Tried to get upgrade with points but couldn’t, even with Peter being a platinum flyer. The flight was full. Somehow Qantas knew that it was Peter’s 50th Birthday and we were spoilt the whole way. French champagne with real glasses in economy and other goodies.
Not sure our fellow economy passengers were impressed but we enjoyed it.
It was an uneventful flight, cleared immigration and customs and walked around to the shuttle bus area (got directions off internet before we left). Waited a few mintues and we were off to the Metcourt. I had purchased a black travel shoulder bag so I could have my hands free and disaster struck. I took it off in the shuttle bus to grab something out of my other and promptly left it in the bus. It had most of our documents in it (had copies in another bag) my passport and $3000 US dollars. It was a nervous hour while it was found and returned complete with money and documents. Needless to say I commenced my tipping to the people who helped in the retrieval. We walked through a security check where they were searching for hand guns and then into the Emperors Palace Complex that I would describe as Little Las Vegas. It was gawdy but the exercise was great after a long flight and plenty of restaurants to choose from. Things of note was a life size front of what I think was an DC 3 areoplane hanging from the ceiling and a larger than life statue of David. The room was large, had a tiny window, the bed was a little hard but overall a great place to stay.
May 28th Off to Victoria Falls
Had a great hot breakfast. Had our beach/diving bag locked in their luggage room and off the airport to catch the BA flight to Victoria Falls. We were told to plastic wrap our luggage so we did and it arrived intact and took us 30 minutes to remove the plastic. We obtained our single entry Zimbabwe visas on arrival for $30USD without a problem and were on our way to Victoria Falls Hotel. Checked in. The staff were fabulous the whole time we were there and we loved the architecture and history around the walls. Our room was small, could have done with a little TLC but was comfortable and home for the next three nights. Off to the Sunset river cruise which was lovely. Saw elephants, hippos, eygptian geese and probably the most beautiful sunset I had ever seen. Had supper on Stanleys terrace and went to bed.
29th May Victoria Falls
Went on helicopter ride over falls which is fabulous. If in doubt just do it as it was absolutely fantastic. Then we walked down the Falls and spent a few hours walking around. Got absolutely drenched and we were wearing ponchos. We could not believe the minute we left the VFH back gate we encountered elephants, buffalo, warthogs and hawkers. Back to VFH about 3pm and sat drinking French champagne on Stanleys Terrace. It cost $1.95 million Zimbabwe dollars which sounds like a lot but was about $50 USD. We then had high tea. That evening went to the Boma dinner at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge which was touristy but fun. I hated the impala but really enjoyed the warthog. Peter ate his and my mopane worm. No thanks.
30th May Victoria Falls
We were up early and went on the controversial Lion walk. I was glad I had my possum/merino gloves, scarf and beanie as it was freezing belting down the highway in an open 4x4 at 6am in winter. Part of me enjoyed the excursion whilst another part was thinking is this the right thing to do. Anyway we did it and were the only two customers. Drove out to park, had morning coffee, spent 45 minutes with three lion cubs, had a great breakfast and were back in town by 9.30am. What to do with the rest of the day. We are fishing fanatics so we hired a boat and guide and fished the Zambezi. Caught some bream and a small tigerfish. Well actually I caught them all Peter caught nothing but we had a great time. Had dinner at Jungle Junction at VFH which was lovely and off to bed.
Next up – On to Botswana
May 27th Flight from Sydney to Johannesburg
We were up at 4.30am and drove the hire car from Canberra to Sydney, dropped it off and checked in by 8am for the 10am Qantas flight to Johannesburg. Tried to get upgrade with points but couldn’t, even with Peter being a platinum flyer. The flight was full. Somehow Qantas knew that it was Peter’s 50th Birthday and we were spoilt the whole way. French champagne with real glasses in economy and other goodies.
Not sure our fellow economy passengers were impressed but we enjoyed it.
It was an uneventful flight, cleared immigration and customs and walked around to the shuttle bus area (got directions off internet before we left). Waited a few mintues and we were off to the Metcourt. I had purchased a black travel shoulder bag so I could have my hands free and disaster struck. I took it off in the shuttle bus to grab something out of my other and promptly left it in the bus. It had most of our documents in it (had copies in another bag) my passport and $3000 US dollars. It was a nervous hour while it was found and returned complete with money and documents. Needless to say I commenced my tipping to the people who helped in the retrieval. We walked through a security check where they were searching for hand guns and then into the Emperors Palace Complex that I would describe as Little Las Vegas. It was gawdy but the exercise was great after a long flight and plenty of restaurants to choose from. Things of note was a life size front of what I think was an DC 3 areoplane hanging from the ceiling and a larger than life statue of David. The room was large, had a tiny window, the bed was a little hard but overall a great place to stay.
May 28th Off to Victoria Falls
Had a great hot breakfast. Had our beach/diving bag locked in their luggage room and off the airport to catch the BA flight to Victoria Falls. We were told to plastic wrap our luggage so we did and it arrived intact and took us 30 minutes to remove the plastic. We obtained our single entry Zimbabwe visas on arrival for $30USD without a problem and were on our way to Victoria Falls Hotel. Checked in. The staff were fabulous the whole time we were there and we loved the architecture and history around the walls. Our room was small, could have done with a little TLC but was comfortable and home for the next three nights. Off to the Sunset river cruise which was lovely. Saw elephants, hippos, eygptian geese and probably the most beautiful sunset I had ever seen. Had supper on Stanleys terrace and went to bed.
29th May Victoria Falls
Went on helicopter ride over falls which is fabulous. If in doubt just do it as it was absolutely fantastic. Then we walked down the Falls and spent a few hours walking around. Got absolutely drenched and we were wearing ponchos. We could not believe the minute we left the VFH back gate we encountered elephants, buffalo, warthogs and hawkers. Back to VFH about 3pm and sat drinking French champagne on Stanleys Terrace. It cost $1.95 million Zimbabwe dollars which sounds like a lot but was about $50 USD. We then had high tea. That evening went to the Boma dinner at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge which was touristy but fun. I hated the impala but really enjoyed the warthog. Peter ate his and my mopane worm. No thanks.
30th May Victoria Falls
We were up early and went on the controversial Lion walk. I was glad I had my possum/merino gloves, scarf and beanie as it was freezing belting down the highway in an open 4x4 at 6am in winter. Part of me enjoyed the excursion whilst another part was thinking is this the right thing to do. Anyway we did it and were the only two customers. Drove out to park, had morning coffee, spent 45 minutes with three lion cubs, had a great breakfast and were back in town by 9.30am. What to do with the rest of the day. We are fishing fanatics so we hired a boat and guide and fished the Zambezi. Caught some bream and a small tigerfish. Well actually I caught them all Peter caught nothing but we had a great time. Had dinner at Jungle Junction at VFH which was lovely and off to bed.
Next up – On to Botswana
May 27th, 2008, 04:39 AM
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Georgie,
Do you recall why the restaurant is named Jungle Junction? When we were there 1999, the menu had a story about it, but I've not been able to remember, nor find it on Internet.
I'm so glad Vic Falls Hotel was OK. I was worried it had really done down.
Enjoying your report!
Samcat
Do you recall why the restaurant is named Jungle Junction? When we were there 1999, the menu had a story about it, but I've not been able to remember, nor find it on Internet.
I'm so glad Vic Falls Hotel was OK. I was worried it had really done down.
Enjoying your report!
Samcat
May 27th, 2008, 08:56 AM
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Whew Georgie -- I am so glad that your important bag was recovered without a problem, what a scary way to start the trip. Sounds like a good visit to Vic Falls!
You hit some spots that are rarely written about here with Kanana Camp and Quilalea Island that I will be very interested to read about. I have looked at Quilalea before as I loved my time in the Bazaruto Archapelago and I would like to check out the northern area whenever I can get there. Looks like a great diverse itinerary and I am excited to read the rest.
You hit some spots that are rarely written about here with Kanana Camp and Quilalea Island that I will be very interested to read about. I have looked at Quilalea before as I loved my time in the Bazaruto Archapelago and I would like to check out the northern area whenever I can get there. Looks like a great diverse itinerary and I am excited to read the rest.
May 27th, 2008, 03:34 PM
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I didn't cry over my bag loss, I was just so angry at myself. I nearly cried with relief when I got it back.
samcat
I remembered that jungle junction had something to do with planes stopping but I looked it up and found the following information.
During the late 1940's, the Solent Flying Boat service, offered by Imperial Airways, became one of the more interesting ways to travel to Africa. This service flew from Southampton, England to Johannesburg, South Africa. The Solents landed and were serviced on a reach of the Zambezi above the Victoria Falls. This stopover became known as the "Jungle Junction" and was soon the favourite stop on the route, as all passengers disembarked and stayed at The Victoria Falls Hotel.
samcat
I remembered that jungle junction had something to do with planes stopping but I looked it up and found the following information.
During the late 1940's, the Solent Flying Boat service, offered by Imperial Airways, became one of the more interesting ways to travel to Africa. This service flew from Southampton, England to Johannesburg, South Africa. The Solents landed and were serviced on a reach of the Zambezi above the Victoria Falls. This stopover became known as the "Jungle Junction" and was soon the favourite stop on the route, as all passengers disembarked and stayed at The Victoria Falls Hotel.
May 27th, 2008, 03:43 PM
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31st May - Chobe Chilwero Botswana
Had a leisurely breakfast and checked out of VFH. We paid cash for our incidentals at VFH as we had heard all sorts of horror stories about paying by credit card. We were picked at 1130 for the road transfer to Chobe Chilwero. Immigration at the border was simple and customs non existent. We transferred from the minibus that took us to the border to a 4x4. We drove a very short distance and we had to get out and walk through a large wet sponge filled with chemicals supposedly to stop the chance of TB going cross the border. We arrived at Chobe Chilwero at 1.30pm.
According to the staff Chobe means –cry of cutters sawing wood and Chilwero means place of high view. It is a beautiful place with views over the Chobe River. The accommodation was superb, the food excellent and the staff wonderful.
That afternoon we went on the river cruise even though we were itching to get out on our first game drive. It was beautiful. We saw hippos, hundreds of elephants some on land some swimming across the channel, buffalo, crocodile, waterbuck, puku, kudu, hyena and heaps of beautiful birds.
We went back to Chobe Chilwero and had a fabulous dinner. Peter said it was the best steak he has ever eaten which is saying something from an Australian meat eating man.
1st June - Chobe Chilwero Botswana
We had a wake up call at 0630 with tea and coffee. Had breakfast and we were on our first official game drive at 0730 and we were lucky we had the 4x4 to ourselves. All I wanted to see was giraffes and would you believe the first animals we saw (beside impalas) was a journey of giraffes. I was so excited. We saw heaps of animals but only the tracks of leopard, lion and snake. Back at lodge at 1230 for lunch and siesta.
We were back on the lawn at Chobe Chilwero at 3pm for high tea (way too much food) and off again. There were heaps of elephants, buffalo, warthog, puku, kudu and when it was starting to get late and dark we came across a pride of lions, 4 lionesses and 6 cubs. We could only stay a short time with them and then it was a mad dash to exit the park before close at 6.30pm. Fabulous dinner once again. Dinner is individual tables that could be joined together if you wanted.
2nd June - Chobe Chilwero Botswana to Selinda walking trails
Same morning routine as yesterday. The game drive was very slow early and then it went into overdrive. We hadn’t seen any cats to date but that was about to change. We saw a huge majestic male leopard lounging in tree and stayed with him for about 15 minutes. Not long later we saw a lioness with her two cubs walking across the plain. We drove over just as they sat down under a bush. We watched them for awhile and then noticed 3 lionesses had come out of the scrub a few hundred metres behind us. One lioness started walking towards us calling whilst the others sat and waited. When she got closer to the lioness with her two cubs she let out one almighty call and out from the bush came 4 tiny lion cubs (one with very little tail). It was fabulous to watch the affection between them all. It was the same pride we had seen the night before. They then set off and met up with the others. We were lucky to spend about two hours with this pride with virtually no other vehicles around. Went back to the lodge packed up and went to Kasane Airport for our flight to Selinda airstrip.
Next up the Selinda walking trails.
Had a leisurely breakfast and checked out of VFH. We paid cash for our incidentals at VFH as we had heard all sorts of horror stories about paying by credit card. We were picked at 1130 for the road transfer to Chobe Chilwero. Immigration at the border was simple and customs non existent. We transferred from the minibus that took us to the border to a 4x4. We drove a very short distance and we had to get out and walk through a large wet sponge filled with chemicals supposedly to stop the chance of TB going cross the border. We arrived at Chobe Chilwero at 1.30pm.
According to the staff Chobe means –cry of cutters sawing wood and Chilwero means place of high view. It is a beautiful place with views over the Chobe River. The accommodation was superb, the food excellent and the staff wonderful.
That afternoon we went on the river cruise even though we were itching to get out on our first game drive. It was beautiful. We saw hippos, hundreds of elephants some on land some swimming across the channel, buffalo, crocodile, waterbuck, puku, kudu, hyena and heaps of beautiful birds.
We went back to Chobe Chilwero and had a fabulous dinner. Peter said it was the best steak he has ever eaten which is saying something from an Australian meat eating man.
1st June - Chobe Chilwero Botswana
We had a wake up call at 0630 with tea and coffee. Had breakfast and we were on our first official game drive at 0730 and we were lucky we had the 4x4 to ourselves. All I wanted to see was giraffes and would you believe the first animals we saw (beside impalas) was a journey of giraffes. I was so excited. We saw heaps of animals but only the tracks of leopard, lion and snake. Back at lodge at 1230 for lunch and siesta.
We were back on the lawn at Chobe Chilwero at 3pm for high tea (way too much food) and off again. There were heaps of elephants, buffalo, warthog, puku, kudu and when it was starting to get late and dark we came across a pride of lions, 4 lionesses and 6 cubs. We could only stay a short time with them and then it was a mad dash to exit the park before close at 6.30pm. Fabulous dinner once again. Dinner is individual tables that could be joined together if you wanted.
2nd June - Chobe Chilwero Botswana to Selinda walking trails
Same morning routine as yesterday. The game drive was very slow early and then it went into overdrive. We hadn’t seen any cats to date but that was about to change. We saw a huge majestic male leopard lounging in tree and stayed with him for about 15 minutes. Not long later we saw a lioness with her two cubs walking across the plain. We drove over just as they sat down under a bush. We watched them for awhile and then noticed 3 lionesses had come out of the scrub a few hundred metres behind us. One lioness started walking towards us calling whilst the others sat and waited. When she got closer to the lioness with her two cubs she let out one almighty call and out from the bush came 4 tiny lion cubs (one with very little tail). It was fabulous to watch the affection between them all. It was the same pride we had seen the night before. They then set off and met up with the others. We were lucky to spend about two hours with this pride with virtually no other vehicles around. Went back to the lodge packed up and went to Kasane Airport for our flight to Selinda airstrip.
Next up the Selinda walking trails.
May 27th, 2008, 09:42 PM
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2nd June
We left Kasane airport at about 1.30pm bound for Selinda. We flew in a 6 seater Cessna and dropped a couple off at Shinde (from memory) before heading on to Selinda. When we arrived there was no-one waiting for us. The pilot said maybe he wasn’t at the right airstrip so double checked his GPS. At the same time we heard a vehicle approach. Our walking guide and tracker were meant to meet us at the airstrip and we were to walk to Mokobo Camp.
It was a maintenance man from Selinda camp instead. The story goes our tracker Robson who was the fittest 75 yr old man I’d ever met left Selinda to go to Mokobo to pick up our guide Gordon and then they were to meet us at the airstrip. The vehicle broke down, so we were picked up in the Selinda maintenance truck and were taken back to Selinda camp to wait for Robson and Gordon.
Driving to Selinda Camp the first thing I noticed was that the elephants weren’t as happy to see us as they were in Chobe. We were charged by a young teenager, which was a little scary and then to top it off we ran out of petrol about 200metres down the road. We had to wait a further twenty minutes for help and I must say I felt a little vulnerable. We made it safely to Selinda in one piece and were offered food and drinks and had a look around. Seems like a nice camp. Robson and Gordon finally turned up and we were on our way.
It was too late to go walking and as we hadn’t seen a male lion yet we asked if we could find the two Selinda Boys. It was dusk and we went off road looking for them. Finally all of a sudden five metres in front of us there was one of them fast asleep. I didn’t see him at first and if I had been driving probably would have run straight over him. We found his brother the same way not far away. We were happy and ready to go to camp.
We arrived at Mokobo which is the African word for Thorny Knob Acacia at 7.15pm in the dark. We were the only two people in camp for the walking trails whilst we were there so we were very spoilt. The staff consisted of Gordon, Robson, Kuhlee the cook and a waiter and cleaner. Had a great dinner and went to bed.
The camp has 3 permanent tents (set far apart) which are up on stilts and have a toilet underneath each that is wide open and animals can walk through it. There is a communal shower which is open too the elements and bush and just fabulous. The kitchen is what they call mobile. It moves from camp to camp.
I needed to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night and just couldn’t hold on so down I went a little nervous. Just as I was about to head back I heard this enormous rustle and I flew up the stairs and into the tent, my heart beating at a million miles per hour. In the morning Gordon said he had heard the commotion and explained it was only a bull elephant about 10 metres from the tent shaking the palm tree. ONLY.
3rd June – Mokobo to Tswhene walking camp.
Up early. Had a great breakfast and Gordon, Robson, Peter and I were off on our walking adventure at about 7.30am. Needless to say every movement I saw was that of a lion and every sound I heard was also that of a lion. Finally I calmed down and started to relax. The walk was about 10 kilometres but it took us nearly 4 hours as we were dawdling, looking at tracks, plants and various animals such as zebra, giraffe and a secretary bird. No lions thank goodness. Arrived at Tshwene about 11.30am.
Whilst we were walking the remaining 3 staff closed down Mokobo including the kitchen (pots and pans etc) and drove around and set up Tshwene camp and the billy was on the boil when we arrived. Tshwene means Baboons and there were plenty of them around. By the way there is only one camp open at a time and the group of visitors and staff move around together between the camps. The afternoon activity, more walking or a game drive, was left entirely up to us to decide on what we wanted to do.
On arrival at Tshwene we heard that the wild dogs were close by so jumped into the 4x4 and went looking for them. We found them on the edge of the spillway just sleeping the early afternoon away. Stayed with them for about 45 minutes and then back to camp. Kuhlee had baked pizza and a lemon and coconut cake in camp ovens and they were absolutely delicious. Had a shower in the totally open air shower. It was weird standing naked with the open bush in front of you with kudu, baboons and zebra looking at you. I was concerned at what was looking at me that I didn’t know was there. Luckily, if there were any predators they didn’t fancy me.
Went back to see the dogs who hadn’t moved and then went off to see our first cheetah. She was very thin and just lying around and our first thoughts were wow a wild cheetah. I felt sorry for her and I think I read she had died a few weeks later. Back to the dogs we went. They were just leaving on a hunt. What timing. So off we went with two other vehicles (from Zib). This was my first glimpse of HariS. We went screaming through the bush but to no avail the dogs didn’t get an impala and then vanished into the bush. How exhilarating is that. I didn’t want it to stop.
We stopped for sundowners after the adrenalin rush. A wine glass had broken so Peter cut off the end of a water bottle and use that instead. Nothing like improvisation whilst in the bush. This is where we first met Hari. He was staying at Zibialanja and would still be there when we arrived the following day. On the way back to camp we nearly ran over a hippo. Had a great dinner and fell into bed quite early.
May 27th, 2008, 10:35 PM
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Hi Georgie,
Thanks for the memory of that botched wild dog chase! I do remember the three vehicle chase- I think it was BB's vehicle who was the spear-head of the chase. Either way, I remember our sundowner stop after the chase had to be given up!
Say hello to Peter and hope your planning for the next safari comes along soon.
Cheers
Hari
Thanks for the memory of that botched wild dog chase! I do remember the three vehicle chase- I think it was BB's vehicle who was the spear-head of the chase. Either way, I remember our sundowner stop after the chase had to be given up!
Say hello to Peter and hope your planning for the next safari comes along soon.
Cheers
Hari
May 28th, 2008, 12:28 AM
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Hi Georgie
Sounds like a great trip so far. The Qantas flight always seems to be full and after mmany years I tried Cathay Pacific and now I go Singapore Airlines - never as full as those Sydney - Johannesburg flights. Plus I don't spend a night in Jo'burg which is also a plus.
We stayed at Chobe Chilwero in September 2001 and also did Chief's and Stanley's Camp. I also liked Chobe Chilwero although the riverdrives were more productive than the road gamedrives, though that is where I first saw the beautiful Sable Bulls.
I also started out paying more money than I needed to by going through agents and I don't think I realised how much until I started working out the costs by lodge rates and local airfares - but it is definitely a process of learning from each trip what not to do next trip.
You certainly went to a lot of places, and that certainly adds to the expense and we did that in the beginning but not now.
Will be interested to see how you found Chief's - a lot say it is a great gameviewing area, but in 2001 it was good but not good enough that I would return in the near future.
Do you have idea of what to plan for your next African Adventure?
Kind regards
Kaye
Sounds like a great trip so far. The Qantas flight always seems to be full and after mmany years I tried Cathay Pacific and now I go Singapore Airlines - never as full as those Sydney - Johannesburg flights. Plus I don't spend a night in Jo'burg which is also a plus.
We stayed at Chobe Chilwero in September 2001 and also did Chief's and Stanley's Camp. I also liked Chobe Chilwero although the riverdrives were more productive than the road gamedrives, though that is where I first saw the beautiful Sable Bulls.
I also started out paying more money than I needed to by going through agents and I don't think I realised how much until I started working out the costs by lodge rates and local airfares - but it is definitely a process of learning from each trip what not to do next trip.
You certainly went to a lot of places, and that certainly adds to the expense and we did that in the beginning but not now.
Will be interested to see how you found Chief's - a lot say it is a great gameviewing area, but in 2001 it was good but not good enough that I would return in the near future.
Do you have idea of what to plan for your next African Adventure?
Kind regards
Kaye
May 28th, 2008, 02:47 AM
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I missed a piec off the last trip report relating to Selinda walking trails.
3rd June Tshwene
Tshwene is the same set up as Mokobo and once again I needed to go to the toilet in the middle of the night. Drinking too much water and alcohol will do it to me every time. Same deal as last night except it was lions roaring this time. They sounded like they were right there and I scurried upstairs nearly tripping on my pyjama pants. I then lay awake for ages listening and wondering where they really were. In the morning Gordon said they were at least a kilometre away and I actually had all the time in the world to leisurely walk up the stairs.
4th June Tshwene Camp to Zibialanja
Peter, Robson and Gordon left on a 3 hour walk to Zibalianja at about 8am. We had a little sleep in. I decided to stay at camp and catch the truck around to Zibalianja as I was feeling very lazy and just didn’t want to walk. Maybe it was the lions I was subconsciously worried about. I really don’t know but I am glad I caught a lift with camp staff to Zib. as I had my first encounter with a honey badger. We watched it for about 10 minutes fossicking around and then had to move on. We all arrived at approximately 11am. Peter had a great walk but said it was a little nerve racking walking through grass taller than him.
Hari,
Peter says hi. In the planning stages of our next trip to Africa hopefully July 2009 (better get a move on). Thinking about Tanzania/Kenya but Botswana still has her strings attached and is pulling us towards her.
KayeN,
How could I forget to mention we also saw a magnificent sable bull in Chobe. The photos weren't great as he was behind a small bush but we still saw him.
I will have to look into Singapore airlines next time we go to Africa.
Stay tuned for Chiefs trip report coming up soon.
3rd June Tshwene
Tshwene is the same set up as Mokobo and once again I needed to go to the toilet in the middle of the night. Drinking too much water and alcohol will do it to me every time. Same deal as last night except it was lions roaring this time. They sounded like they were right there and I scurried upstairs nearly tripping on my pyjama pants. I then lay awake for ages listening and wondering where they really were. In the morning Gordon said they were at least a kilometre away and I actually had all the time in the world to leisurely walk up the stairs.
4th June Tshwene Camp to Zibialanja
Peter, Robson and Gordon left on a 3 hour walk to Zibalianja at about 8am. We had a little sleep in. I decided to stay at camp and catch the truck around to Zibalianja as I was feeling very lazy and just didn’t want to walk. Maybe it was the lions I was subconsciously worried about. I really don’t know but I am glad I caught a lift with camp staff to Zib. as I had my first encounter with a honey badger. We watched it for about 10 minutes fossicking around and then had to move on. We all arrived at approximately 11am. Peter had a great walk but said it was a little nerve racking walking through grass taller than him.
Hari,
Peter says hi. In the planning stages of our next trip to Africa hopefully July 2009 (better get a move on). Thinking about Tanzania/Kenya but Botswana still has her strings attached and is pulling us towards her.
KayeN,
How could I forget to mention we also saw a magnificent sable bull in Chobe. The photos weren't great as he was behind a small bush but we still saw him.
I will have to look into Singapore airlines next time we go to Africa.
Stay tuned for Chiefs trip report coming up soon.
May 28th, 2008, 03:40 PM
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4th June Zibalianja Camp
After arriving at Zibalianja we had some lunch which was very nice and a glass of wine and we were then shown to our tent which I thought was great. I wonder what the renovations are going to entail. I personally didn’t think it needed renovating and liked it just the way it was.
At 4pm we went on a game drive with Rain who is Robson’s the trackers son. Saw the usual common animals plus a herd of Roan Antelope. We went tracking cheetah but couldn’t find any. Back at about 7.30pm, had dinner with Hari and others and in bed by 10pm. As the camp has only 3 tents, one table is set which includes guests, managers and guides. I really enjoyed the atmosphere and had a great dinner.
5th June Zibalianja
We were woken up at 6am on our 25th wedding anniversary to come and look at some tracks in camp. A Leopard had walked through the camp overnight around most of the tents and the kitchen. So it was a quick bowl of porridge and Peter, Rain and I were off tracking the leopard but couldn’t find him. Hari, did you and Kanawe find the leopard???? I can’t remember if you did or not.
We caught up with Hari later on a game drive. Kanawe and Hari had found the two cheetah males and they were very kind and let us know so we went to have a look. Thanks for that. They were magnificent and in much better condition than the female we saw a few days ago. We saw our first ostriches of the trip and an African python.
Went out on an afternoon game drive and saw our first Tsessebe (can’t spell) and the usual suspects. We also so an African civet in broad daylight and watched him for about 15 minutes. We were heading back to camp close to airstrip where heaps of plovers were resting on the ground. We saw an African wild cat, crouch pause and engage (sounds a little like a rugby union referee for those who like rugby.) He let fly and caught a plover mid air and needless to say we have no photos of it. It was almost dark and happened so quickly.
Back to camp and Stewart and Tessa the managers had set up a private table at the front of the bar for our 25th wedding anniversary dinner. There was champagne, a special dinner and we were visited by elephants at the waterhole and a bard owl that just sat there for ages. After dinner we joined the group for drinks around the fire and then went to bed. What a way to spend an anniversary. Wish I could spend it like that every year.
6th June Zibalianja Camp
Early breakfast around fire and off on our last game drive at Zib. We saw elephants, roan antelope, hyena chewing an impala antler, jackals, a huge herd of buffalo and zebra. We had a few tense moments with a herd of elephants. They didn’t like us on their path. Had a couple of mock charges but eventually the moved on and we were able to pass.
Back for lunch, said goodbye to everyone, one couple we would meet up with again in Quilalea and were off to the airstrip to catch our flight to Baines Camp. There were two aircraft at the strip. A caravan (12 or so seater) which was packed and about to taxi out to the runway. Our plane was a small Cessna who was in a big hurry as he had passengers that he had to get Maun after dropping us off at Stanley’s airstrip to catch the flight back to Johannesburg.
There was no time for niceties and the pilot threw our gear in and I jumped into the co-pilots seat and Peter in behind the pilot and we were off. He started to race out the actual strip and hadn’t checked to see where the other plane was. As we entered the strip we saw the caravan hurtling down the runway toward us. It took off and was about 4 metres in front of us and about 5 metres over our heads; our pilot was shocked, swore, and slammed on his brakes. When the caravan was airborne and on his way it was business as usual and no apology from our pilot. It was an interesting few moments.
Landed at Stanley’s airstrip and were met by Paul and Baya.
Next up Baines Camp.
After arriving at Zibalianja we had some lunch which was very nice and a glass of wine and we were then shown to our tent which I thought was great. I wonder what the renovations are going to entail. I personally didn’t think it needed renovating and liked it just the way it was.
At 4pm we went on a game drive with Rain who is Robson’s the trackers son. Saw the usual common animals plus a herd of Roan Antelope. We went tracking cheetah but couldn’t find any. Back at about 7.30pm, had dinner with Hari and others and in bed by 10pm. As the camp has only 3 tents, one table is set which includes guests, managers and guides. I really enjoyed the atmosphere and had a great dinner.
5th June Zibalianja
We were woken up at 6am on our 25th wedding anniversary to come and look at some tracks in camp. A Leopard had walked through the camp overnight around most of the tents and the kitchen. So it was a quick bowl of porridge and Peter, Rain and I were off tracking the leopard but couldn’t find him. Hari, did you and Kanawe find the leopard???? I can’t remember if you did or not.
We caught up with Hari later on a game drive. Kanawe and Hari had found the two cheetah males and they were very kind and let us know so we went to have a look. Thanks for that. They were magnificent and in much better condition than the female we saw a few days ago. We saw our first ostriches of the trip and an African python.
Went out on an afternoon game drive and saw our first Tsessebe (can’t spell) and the usual suspects. We also so an African civet in broad daylight and watched him for about 15 minutes. We were heading back to camp close to airstrip where heaps of plovers were resting on the ground. We saw an African wild cat, crouch pause and engage (sounds a little like a rugby union referee for those who like rugby.) He let fly and caught a plover mid air and needless to say we have no photos of it. It was almost dark and happened so quickly.
Back to camp and Stewart and Tessa the managers had set up a private table at the front of the bar for our 25th wedding anniversary dinner. There was champagne, a special dinner and we were visited by elephants at the waterhole and a bard owl that just sat there for ages. After dinner we joined the group for drinks around the fire and then went to bed. What a way to spend an anniversary. Wish I could spend it like that every year.
6th June Zibalianja Camp
Early breakfast around fire and off on our last game drive at Zib. We saw elephants, roan antelope, hyena chewing an impala antler, jackals, a huge herd of buffalo and zebra. We had a few tense moments with a herd of elephants. They didn’t like us on their path. Had a couple of mock charges but eventually the moved on and we were able to pass.
Back for lunch, said goodbye to everyone, one couple we would meet up with again in Quilalea and were off to the airstrip to catch our flight to Baines Camp. There were two aircraft at the strip. A caravan (12 or so seater) which was packed and about to taxi out to the runway. Our plane was a small Cessna who was in a big hurry as he had passengers that he had to get Maun after dropping us off at Stanley’s airstrip to catch the flight back to Johannesburg.
There was no time for niceties and the pilot threw our gear in and I jumped into the co-pilots seat and Peter in behind the pilot and we were off. He started to race out the actual strip and hadn’t checked to see where the other plane was. As we entered the strip we saw the caravan hurtling down the runway toward us. It took off and was about 4 metres in front of us and about 5 metres over our heads; our pilot was shocked, swore, and slammed on his brakes. When the caravan was airborne and on his way it was business as usual and no apology from our pilot. It was an interesting few moments.
Landed at Stanley’s airstrip and were met by Paul and Baya.
Next up Baines Camp.
May 28th, 2008, 06:22 PM
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Hi Georgie,
The leopard - don't think it was the same one that came to camp at night. But, we did see a skittish young leopard during the trip, don't know if it was that particular morning, can't remember. The cheetah brothers that you mention - it was too short a sighting. I think we only got a chance to bid goodbye to them as they crossed over to Duma Tau's concession.
You mention the tracking the previous afternoon. Did you know that one of the guides found them at the airstrip at lunch time the previous afternoon when he dropped off his other guests? I have no clue why it was left to the PM drive to go find them, as you say - they had already left the airstrip area.
Rgds
Hari
The leopard - don't think it was the same one that came to camp at night. But, we did see a skittish young leopard during the trip, don't know if it was that particular morning, can't remember. The cheetah brothers that you mention - it was too short a sighting. I think we only got a chance to bid goodbye to them as they crossed over to Duma Tau's concession.
You mention the tracking the previous afternoon. Did you know that one of the guides found them at the airstrip at lunch time the previous afternoon when he dropped off his other guests? I have no clue why it was left to the PM drive to go find them, as you say - they had already left the airstrip area.
Rgds
Hari
May 28th, 2008, 08:51 PM
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Wow, what sightings -- wild dogs, honey badger, civet, wild cat kill, and Hari all on the same stay!
Brilliant report, your misplaced bag at the start of the trip is now only the second most harrowing moment. The near plane crash is crazy, glad it was just a near miss that becomes part of a great adventure!!
Brilliant report, your misplaced bag at the start of the trip is now only the second most harrowing moment. The near plane crash is crazy, glad it was just a near miss that becomes part of a great adventure!!
May 29th, 2008, 12:58 AM
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Hari,
The cheetah sighting was short but sweet as were not to see another cheetah on our trip. We did have some great small animal sightings which made up for it.
PB,
The near plane crash was interesting to say the least. I could see the caravan still on the run way and was thinking the piolt knows it is there and will stop. I shouted at the same time he realised and it was all over in a few seconds. When we got to Baines we were talking about it and one of the managers use to work for Mack Air and said the caravan would log the incident. She knew the piolt who was one of the best but it goes show you hurrying is not the answer.
Anyway one has to have a couple of good stories from a holiday and I think I have plenty.
The cheetah sighting was short but sweet as were not to see another cheetah on our trip. We did have some great small animal sightings which made up for it.
PB,
The near plane crash was interesting to say the least. I could see the caravan still on the run way and was thinking the piolt knows it is there and will stop. I shouted at the same time he realised and it was all over in a few seconds. When we got to Baines we were talking about it and one of the managers use to work for Mack Air and said the caravan would log the incident. She knew the piolt who was one of the best but it goes show you hurrying is not the answer.
Anyway one has to have a couple of good stories from a holiday and I think I have plenty.
May 29th, 2008, 02:48 AM
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I am sorry for the long winded report but as I am writing this I am just reliving the whole trip and get so excited and can't help myself.
6th June Baines Camp
After our harrowing take off from Selinda we had a smooth landing and Paul and Baya were waiting for us. It took an hour to drive to Baines Camp and saw heaps of animals and water along the way. We had arrived in the Okavango Delta. The room was gorgeous and I really loved the atmosphere at Baines.
Had a game drive seeing the usual suspects plus reedbuck and water buck which we had not seen before. The most unusual event was with the other people in the 4x4. There were two elderly women, one actually turned 80 on her safari and Peter and I on this game drive. They were both really nice people and exceptionally fit, jumping in and out of the 4x4. The problem was that every time we would stop to look at an animal one of the women would click her tongue and talk to the animals in a loud voice ‘aren’t you just so cute’ or ‘turn your head around so I can get a nice picture’. Most animals moved off when she did this and she couldn’t understand why. Eventually I said maybe if you keep quiet you may have more chance of taking some good photos. I said it nicely of course. The other thing she did was stand up in the vehicle when ever she felt like it. The guide spoke with her that when stopped and viewing animals there should be quiet voices and no standing. She didn’t listen to him.
Back to camp. Hot amarula toddies waiting for us and then off to a beautiful dinner. All the honeymooners get individual tables but we oldies were sat together and we had a great dinner and conversation and went to bed.
7th June Baines Camp Walking with the Elephants
Walking with Doug and his three elephants, Jabu, Marula and Thembi was absolutely one of the best things I have ever done. I can’t put into words how fantastic it was. All I can say is if you can do it, don’t hesitate. We were to hear from people that had just arrived at Baines and were to follow us to Chiefs, that the very next day after our walking with elephants adventure, three lionesses came in, the elephants were escorted away and the guests, guides and armed rangers joined in a circle and were surrounded by these lionesses for about 10 minutes until the 4x4 arrived to pick them up. Apparently a little or a lot scary but all ended well.
That afternoon we went on the afternoon game drive and were able to add another few new animals (to us that is) to the imaginary list. We saw giraffe, four different hyena, an African wildcat and the newbie’s being a genet, a serval and of all things a mole rat. The mole rat was small and bald but we felt very privileged to see it as the tracker and guide who had been working for quite a few years in this industry had never seen one before. Back to camp, dinner and bed.
8th June Baines Camp
Up early. Why do I keep writing that as we were always up early? All night there was an animal cacophony like I had never heard before, mainly lions and hyena. The game drive was very quiet, relatively speaking until we came across my 2nd honey badger and Peter’s first honey badger sighting. We watched him for ages sniffing through the grass about 30 metres away whilst we were having morning tea. We were warned they can be very vicious and can take a chunk out of a land rover tyre so if he starts coming this way, it was everybody for themselves and get back in the 4x4. Paul and Baya were more scared of the honey badger than large predators. We lost sight of him for a minute and then next thing he has this 4 foot snake in his mouth and starts to run away with it. He accidentally trod on the snake whilst running as fast as he could go so the snake was pulled from his mouth. He slammed on his brakes turned round sniffed it out again and took off again and that was the last we saw of him. We think it was a green snake.
Back for lunch and we left at 12.30pm for Stanley’s airstrip for our flight to Kanana Camp.
Next up Kanana Camp.
6th June Baines Camp
After our harrowing take off from Selinda we had a smooth landing and Paul and Baya were waiting for us. It took an hour to drive to Baines Camp and saw heaps of animals and water along the way. We had arrived in the Okavango Delta. The room was gorgeous and I really loved the atmosphere at Baines.
Had a game drive seeing the usual suspects plus reedbuck and water buck which we had not seen before. The most unusual event was with the other people in the 4x4. There were two elderly women, one actually turned 80 on her safari and Peter and I on this game drive. They were both really nice people and exceptionally fit, jumping in and out of the 4x4. The problem was that every time we would stop to look at an animal one of the women would click her tongue and talk to the animals in a loud voice ‘aren’t you just so cute’ or ‘turn your head around so I can get a nice picture’. Most animals moved off when she did this and she couldn’t understand why. Eventually I said maybe if you keep quiet you may have more chance of taking some good photos. I said it nicely of course. The other thing she did was stand up in the vehicle when ever she felt like it. The guide spoke with her that when stopped and viewing animals there should be quiet voices and no standing. She didn’t listen to him.
Back to camp. Hot amarula toddies waiting for us and then off to a beautiful dinner. All the honeymooners get individual tables but we oldies were sat together and we had a great dinner and conversation and went to bed.
7th June Baines Camp Walking with the Elephants
Walking with Doug and his three elephants, Jabu, Marula and Thembi was absolutely one of the best things I have ever done. I can’t put into words how fantastic it was. All I can say is if you can do it, don’t hesitate. We were to hear from people that had just arrived at Baines and were to follow us to Chiefs, that the very next day after our walking with elephants adventure, three lionesses came in, the elephants were escorted away and the guests, guides and armed rangers joined in a circle and were surrounded by these lionesses for about 10 minutes until the 4x4 arrived to pick them up. Apparently a little or a lot scary but all ended well.
That afternoon we went on the afternoon game drive and were able to add another few new animals (to us that is) to the imaginary list. We saw giraffe, four different hyena, an African wildcat and the newbie’s being a genet, a serval and of all things a mole rat. The mole rat was small and bald but we felt very privileged to see it as the tracker and guide who had been working for quite a few years in this industry had never seen one before. Back to camp, dinner and bed.
8th June Baines Camp
Up early. Why do I keep writing that as we were always up early? All night there was an animal cacophony like I had never heard before, mainly lions and hyena. The game drive was very quiet, relatively speaking until we came across my 2nd honey badger and Peter’s first honey badger sighting. We watched him for ages sniffing through the grass about 30 metres away whilst we were having morning tea. We were warned they can be very vicious and can take a chunk out of a land rover tyre so if he starts coming this way, it was everybody for themselves and get back in the 4x4. Paul and Baya were more scared of the honey badger than large predators. We lost sight of him for a minute and then next thing he has this 4 foot snake in his mouth and starts to run away with it. He accidentally trod on the snake whilst running as fast as he could go so the snake was pulled from his mouth. He slammed on his brakes turned round sniffed it out again and took off again and that was the last we saw of him. We think it was a green snake.
Back for lunch and we left at 12.30pm for Stanley’s airstrip for our flight to Kanana Camp.
Next up Kanana Camp.
May 30th, 2008, 12:02 AM
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8th June Kanana Camp
In our original planning we wanted to spend a week between Baines and Chiefs camp but were unable to. We could only get two nights at Baines and then couldn’t get into Chiefs until a few days later. The TA came up with this camp. We were told it is more of a water activity camp but they do have game drives. We decided to give it a go.
Arrived at the airstrip (can’t remember the name) and it was a twenty minute drive to the camp. It was set on the edge of Okavango Delta, so when it is in full flood it would almost lap at the verandahs of the tents. As the water was rapidly coming in you could actually watch the water rise and come closer to the tents. It was a beautiful outlook and the tents were great with your own ensuite. Couldn’t have asked for more in the accommodation stakes. Maybe not as luxurious as some but certainly very comfortable.
You can decide to do whatever activity you like without having to consult other guests. There are game drive guides and pole bearers/motorboat captains so it is not like you have to fight with your fellow guest to do one or the other. At least it was that way when we were there. Out of the four activities we had there we did 2 game drives and two water activities and ended up being on our own for every one of them.
Decided to go on the afternoon game drive. The only exciting thing we saw was the large tourist eagle flying overhead taking tourists to Maun. Went back to camp and had a great dinner. It was simple, roast beef fillet with brussel sprouts, cauliflower and potatoe. I really enjoyed it after all the elaborate dishes we had been served recently. We all sat at a long table which included guests, managers and guides.
9th June Kanana Camp
We decided to take the motorboat, with a guide of course, for a cruise on the delta. Saw heaps of water lilies and birds including malakite kingfishers, fish eagles and a sole pelican who looked a little lost and lonely. The funniest thing we saw was the torpedo hippo. I was worried about the statistic that Hippos kill more people than any other animal and asked the question ‘aren’t we a little close’. The guide said ‘watch this’. He tapped the side of the aluminium boat (not very loud) and the hippo was off underwater all you could see was his bubbles and his wake. He took refugee under the floating reeds. It was a really enjoyable morning. It was the usual deal, back for lunch, siesta, more food and then another activity.
We decide to go on a mekoro excursion. You travel by motorboat for about 20 minutes to the Mekoros and go from there. We decided to high tail it so as to get more time in the mekoro. Harrowing experience number three was around the corner. We were travelling at speed and Peter and the guide mentioned that the water looked a little churned up and there were big chunks of floating papyrus. They both said an elephant had probably crossed the channel. These channels are not very wide, maybe 3 metres and have huge papyrus grass growing on either side. We rounded the bend and there was a bull elephant about 20 metres in front of us munching on papyrus. Guess what a boat doesn’t have -BRAKES. The elephant wasn’t happy and started charging down the channel towards us. Luckily the water slowed him down. The guide said hang on and steered us into the reeds to stop us moving forward and threw the boat into reverse and got us out of there. I was at the front of the boat and all I could see was this huge elephant filling up the channel, coming towards us and extremely unhappy. Got to the mekoros with the adrenalin rush still pumping through our bodies. It took awhile to calm down and then we had such a great time weaving through the lilies, watching birds and enjoying the peacefulness. We spent about 90 minutes in the mekoro which I think was long enough. Back to the motorboat. Out to deep water, where the engine was cut and we enjoyed the most beautiful sunset on the water. Back to camp and enjoyed another simple wholesome dinner.
10th June Kanana Camp
Had breakfast and out early on a game drive as we were the only ones in this 4x4. How nonchalant, but we saw the usual animals. Tracked leopard, but it was smarter than us. Can’t say the same for the lions we tracked. A large pride 3 males, 2 females and 2 cubs had crossed over the old rickety wooden bridge into the hunting concession. Hope they made it back safe and sound. We also saw an enormous crocodile and another serval.
Back to camp, had some lunch and off to the airstrip for our 15 minute flight to Chief’s Camp.
I would just like to add we really enjoyed Kanana because of the water activities. Our game drives were not wonderful, maybe we were just unlucky. If you want to concentrate on water activities I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Kanana.
In our original planning we wanted to spend a week between Baines and Chiefs camp but were unable to. We could only get two nights at Baines and then couldn’t get into Chiefs until a few days later. The TA came up with this camp. We were told it is more of a water activity camp but they do have game drives. We decided to give it a go.
Arrived at the airstrip (can’t remember the name) and it was a twenty minute drive to the camp. It was set on the edge of Okavango Delta, so when it is in full flood it would almost lap at the verandahs of the tents. As the water was rapidly coming in you could actually watch the water rise and come closer to the tents. It was a beautiful outlook and the tents were great with your own ensuite. Couldn’t have asked for more in the accommodation stakes. Maybe not as luxurious as some but certainly very comfortable.
You can decide to do whatever activity you like without having to consult other guests. There are game drive guides and pole bearers/motorboat captains so it is not like you have to fight with your fellow guest to do one or the other. At least it was that way when we were there. Out of the four activities we had there we did 2 game drives and two water activities and ended up being on our own for every one of them.
Decided to go on the afternoon game drive. The only exciting thing we saw was the large tourist eagle flying overhead taking tourists to Maun. Went back to camp and had a great dinner. It was simple, roast beef fillet with brussel sprouts, cauliflower and potatoe. I really enjoyed it after all the elaborate dishes we had been served recently. We all sat at a long table which included guests, managers and guides.
9th June Kanana Camp
We decided to take the motorboat, with a guide of course, for a cruise on the delta. Saw heaps of water lilies and birds including malakite kingfishers, fish eagles and a sole pelican who looked a little lost and lonely. The funniest thing we saw was the torpedo hippo. I was worried about the statistic that Hippos kill more people than any other animal and asked the question ‘aren’t we a little close’. The guide said ‘watch this’. He tapped the side of the aluminium boat (not very loud) and the hippo was off underwater all you could see was his bubbles and his wake. He took refugee under the floating reeds. It was a really enjoyable morning. It was the usual deal, back for lunch, siesta, more food and then another activity.
We decide to go on a mekoro excursion. You travel by motorboat for about 20 minutes to the Mekoros and go from there. We decided to high tail it so as to get more time in the mekoro. Harrowing experience number three was around the corner. We were travelling at speed and Peter and the guide mentioned that the water looked a little churned up and there were big chunks of floating papyrus. They both said an elephant had probably crossed the channel. These channels are not very wide, maybe 3 metres and have huge papyrus grass growing on either side. We rounded the bend and there was a bull elephant about 20 metres in front of us munching on papyrus. Guess what a boat doesn’t have -BRAKES. The elephant wasn’t happy and started charging down the channel towards us. Luckily the water slowed him down. The guide said hang on and steered us into the reeds to stop us moving forward and threw the boat into reverse and got us out of there. I was at the front of the boat and all I could see was this huge elephant filling up the channel, coming towards us and extremely unhappy. Got to the mekoros with the adrenalin rush still pumping through our bodies. It took awhile to calm down and then we had such a great time weaving through the lilies, watching birds and enjoying the peacefulness. We spent about 90 minutes in the mekoro which I think was long enough. Back to the motorboat. Out to deep water, where the engine was cut and we enjoyed the most beautiful sunset on the water. Back to camp and enjoyed another simple wholesome dinner.
10th June Kanana Camp
Had breakfast and out early on a game drive as we were the only ones in this 4x4. How nonchalant, but we saw the usual animals. Tracked leopard, but it was smarter than us. Can’t say the same for the lions we tracked. A large pride 3 males, 2 females and 2 cubs had crossed over the old rickety wooden bridge into the hunting concession. Hope they made it back safe and sound. We also saw an enormous crocodile and another serval.
Back to camp, had some lunch and off to the airstrip for our 15 minute flight to Chief’s Camp.
I would just like to add we really enjoyed Kanana because of the water activities. Our game drives were not wonderful, maybe we were just unlucky. If you want to concentrate on water activities I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Kanana.
May 30th, 2008, 03:54 PM
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Those lions roars always seem to be coming from right outside the tent, even if they are a kilometer away.
Great job with the honey badgers and the wildcat rugby.
I can't think of a better way to spend an anniversary than dinner with your betrothed and a herd of elephants.
Your airstrip experiencing is disconcerting. I think the lesson is to alert your pilot to something you believe is dangerous, even if you figure he is aware. When there is hurrying, our radar should on high alert for problems. The lessons learned from your harrowing experiences can be extended to motor-boating along channels with obstructed views. We should request no wake speeds.
Your elephant walk was thankfully calmer than the people surrounded by lions. You mentioned the elephants were led away when the lions appeared. If I were on the walk, I'd insist on accompanying those elephants out of the lion zone!
At 80 I can only hope to have the energy to hop in and out of vehicles and the money to make the hopping possible. Note to self: Don't cluck or stand up, though.
Sable, roan, cheetah, wild dogs, you saw it all!
Great job with the honey badgers and the wildcat rugby.
I can't think of a better way to spend an anniversary than dinner with your betrothed and a herd of elephants.
Your airstrip experiencing is disconcerting. I think the lesson is to alert your pilot to something you believe is dangerous, even if you figure he is aware. When there is hurrying, our radar should on high alert for problems. The lessons learned from your harrowing experiences can be extended to motor-boating along channels with obstructed views. We should request no wake speeds.
Your elephant walk was thankfully calmer than the people surrounded by lions. You mentioned the elephants were led away when the lions appeared. If I were on the walk, I'd insist on accompanying those elephants out of the lion zone!
At 80 I can only hope to have the energy to hop in and out of vehicles and the money to make the hopping possible. Note to self: Don't cluck or stand up, though.
Sable, roan, cheetah, wild dogs, you saw it all!
