Thinking About Africa...Again!

Old May 26th, 2016, 09:59 AM
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Thinking About Africa...Again!

After what was a glorious once-in-a-lifetime trip to Southern Africa - or so we thought! - here we are again, now at the early stages of planning of what we hope will be an equally-rewarding second visit. Thoughts of a return trip actually began forming in our minds while we were enjoying the riches of Botswana. Surely we had to come back...

Throughout our first trip we met with other travelers and we conversed about some of Africa's offerings with our rangers, guides, and lodge staff, so we returned home with some ideas of what a second visit would look like. Since our return, I've conducted some initial research online, browsed some guidebook materials, and read through some of the information here and on TA.

As with our first trip to Africa, wildlife viewing remains top on our list. We hope to see the Big Five again, although I really hope to see more leopard and rhino. Hippos, giraffes, and various types of antelope are high on the list. Oh, and the zebra, which we hadn't really seen on our first visit. We enjoyed both our stay at Kirkman's Kamp in Sabi Sand and at Chobe Under Canvas, and really liked the open vehicles and the 6-person limit on vehicles; if we can do it again this way, we would love to.

Other than wildlife, we are interested in different experiences including beautiful scenery. We thought Cape Town and Victoria Falls were good complements for our safari visits on this past trip.

Destinations under consideration -
- Namibia - Etosha, Damaraland, Sossusvlei
- Zambia and Malawi - South Luangwa, Lower Zambezi, Lake Malawi
- Kenya and Tanzania, although I am concerned that this may be out of reach
- South Africa and Madagascar - game reserve in KwaZulu-Natal, iSimangaliso, and in Madagascar, tsingys, baobabs, and lemurs

Time: sometime from mid-June to mid-July, up to 4 weeks, although probably only up to 10-12 nights on safari
Budget: US$400pppn for the safari option

Your thoughts would be most appreciated. Pros and cons of the different places... Your experiences... Other things I should know... Other suggestions...

Thank you.
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Old May 26th, 2016, 01:35 PM
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Oooh, you make me excited. I am working and should not even be on this board. I am just happy to get a chance to read another one of your fantastic TR's!

But I have been to:

- Namibia - Etosha, Damaraland, Sossusvlei
- Kenya and Tanzania

I will come back with more. Both are extraordinary but oh so different!

Welcome back!
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Old May 26th, 2016, 01:57 PM
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Lolazahra, thank you. You and I both, as I'm working too. Happy to oblige on the TR but this would be for June / July next year. Looking forward to your thoughts.
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Old May 26th, 2016, 02:00 PM
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*correction* This is what happens when I type too fast. I meant to say "US$400pppn for the safari portion of the trip"; I expect the other days to be more economical as it was during this past visit.
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Old May 26th, 2016, 10:02 PM
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Hi Tripplanner. Oh, how I relate to your post!!

May I ask two things before offering suggstions:

How do you mean Kenya might be out of reach? Long trip? $$$?

Do you in particular want to see another beautiful and famous waterfall? Not sure how literally you meant this, or if Vic Falls is just an example you are giving of a spectacular natural site you loved. In Uganda (which, due to its scenic beauty and other features, I hope you will consider as a "partner" destination to neighboring Kenya) there is the magnificent Murchison Falls . If you've watched Bogart and Hepburn in "The African Queen" you've seen it!
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Old May 27th, 2016, 02:54 AM
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CaliNurse, thank you. In response to your questions:

Kenya and Tanzania seems out of reach, at least from the research I've done so far, due to cost. It seems safari lodges are more expensive there compared to elsewhere.

I enjoyed Victoria Falls as a natural site but I do love waterfalls. Would love to see another one, and honestly didn't know about Murchison. I vaguely recall the film.
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Old May 27th, 2016, 06:40 AM
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I can only convey our experience after a few trips, for what it's worth. Remember, the plural of anecdotes is NOT data.

We decided to go "deep" rather than "wide," if you get my meaning - focusing on South Africa for a couple of reasons:

Diversity: Not just in the safari venues and range of animals, but in the country itself. In our travels we've visited several game reserves around (and including) Kruger Park, but also Madikwe, Phinda and Addo. And while those experiences were superb (and quite different from one another) the real joy (to us) was getting to learn more and more about that remarkable country. We drove all around - north to south, east to west - the Indian Ocean coast to Cathedral Peak in the Drakensbergs; the wildflowers of the west coast to the steppes of the Great Karoo. We met local people and talked about everything - the transition to democracy, current politics, the incredible emerging arts scene, rugby v. soccer cultures... you name it. The more we learned, the more we wanted to learn. It's an exasperating, inspiring, confusing, vibrant, beautiful, sometimes ugly, welcoming and unforgettable place.

Infrastructure: Compared to other places in Africa my late wife and I have visited, including Kenya and Uganda (business) as well as short stays in Botswana and Zimbabwe, SA is frankly remarkably easy to get around on your own. The roads are good, everything works (well, most of the time.) For the most part it's quite affordable, the hotels and B&Bs all scored and rated through a superb and reliable system; the food is delicious and varied, there's cell and wifi everywhere.. Now maybe that's not important in the grand scheme of things, but it mattered to us.

Were I in your place, contemplating a second visit (and I have been) I'd think closely about arranging a trip where the <i>arrangements</i> are easy and can be put into the background, so to speak, so that I could focus more on what I came to see. If it's leopards, then the Sabi Sand reserve is your target. For zebra or rhinos, look at Madikwe. Maybe see if you could move your trip to August-September and take in the wildflowers in Namaqualand. Drive the Garden Route if you haven't, or take a few days to explore the Panoramic Route close to Kruger NP. Hit the beach in KZN or go bird watching in West Coast National Park followed by amazing seafood in Paternoster. Take in one of the (more or less continuous) arts, music, film, or food festivals in Cape Town or the Winelands.

Like I say, all personal and you're free to disregard, but if you think a <i>second</i> trip will fill the bill, think again.
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Old May 28th, 2016, 03:38 AM
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Gardyloo, thank you for your suggestions. I appreciate the incredible thought you gave in your response. We had the pleasure of spending 2 of our 3 weeks of our first trip in South Africa and it was among our best trips ever. SA is high on our list for a return visit, if not for trip number two then a future trip (You're right. Two won't be enough just like one wasn't.). For our second trip to Africa, we're still a bit in sampling mode and hope to see more of the continent. In the end SA may still feature in this trip; we're considering Phinda or Zululand reserve plus St. Lucia.
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Old May 28th, 2016, 09:09 AM
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If looking for beautiful & unique scenery Namibia is the place!

The Sossusvlei dunes, Sandwich Harbour where dunes that look like golden whipped cream meet the Atlantic Ocean, spending a couple of hours with the incredible Himba and Herero tribes, the Etosha watering holes where you can see 5 black rhino congregate at the same time, the Etosha salt pan, just to name a few, are amazing and experiences I often still reminisce about after my trip in 2014.

Infrastructure is much like S.A., most self drive and the cost is very reasonable.
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Old May 28th, 2016, 12:55 PM
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Tripplanner, i know... the price concerns! Those small tented camps' prices !! (Not like Botswana-price level though!) Sticker shock when i started research. Was glad to haVe stayed in the ones i chose, but i honestly did NOT feel they were "better" experiences than either very basic tents(my first trip 40 plus yrs ago) or the beautiful
indoors" lodges i stayed at.
Kenny has perfectly fine lodges that are more do-able b budget-wise !Sure they are different-- more rooms, more people, bigger spreads at dinner--and you're outside much of the day anyway. For example, Serena has Sweetwaters in Laikipia, and the Serena Mara lodge high on a hill above the mara River crossing point. There are loads of reputable local agents who can get great deals.

Won't go into more detail now, but if you narrow down to Kenya or other East African country, will be glad to do so! Re your "sampling mode"- agreed! it is fun and interesting to try different places/modes. Friends went to SA and rented a car and drove to the game parks. That said it all! No way would I consider driving myself to or around the park in Kenya! Very different infrastructures...and overall experiences.
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Old May 28th, 2016, 02:40 PM
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KathBC, appreciate your perspective on Namibia; thank you. As non-drivers ourselves, we may need a driver or some other form of transportation but that has not adversely affected any of our trips. Were there places that you stayed in Namibia that you would recommend?

CaliNurse, thanks again. Are there agents you would recommend for Kenya, Tanzania, and / or Uganda? We would be fine to focus on the less visited parks to keep prices down (e.g. Laikipia or Samburu over the Mara in Kenya or the southern circuit over the north in Tanzania).
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Old May 29th, 2016, 01:21 PM
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I love Samburu!!!!!!Incredible scenery, very wild, dry but gorgeous,huge numbers of elephants, But you simply cannot miss the Mara!!!! I visited duringyour time frame the last two trips, 2012 and 2014, during the migration from Serengeti--oh, to see thousands of animals on the plains and the river crossings! Here's something I didnt realize; they don't cross the river just one time in a season!!!! One friend saw this beyond-belief spectacle on three consecutive days last June--we saw "only" once, but what a sight!! made me cry. it's like living a National Geographic doc mentally!! And the number of lions, wilds, zebra, elephants in the Mara...truly, if you go to Kenya you must go to the Mara.

My "dream" route on limited time would be Laikipia (Sweetwaters) ... Samburu (stayed at Intrepids , great tents, fantastic guides, sort of summer camp size though) ...Mara (or one of its adjoining conservancies). Of the two recent trips, i stayed in Laikipia area at Serena Sweetwaters and more recently, Porini Rhino; in Mara at Serena Mara Lodge, then Porini Lion in one of the adjoining conservancies.

Lots to ask yourself: Fly between places (timesaver--fun Safari Link planes) vs driver (longer, passing some interesting places but very bumpy roads thru mara)--type of vehicle (jeep better than van , imho)...use the driver /gjuide from the agency you use, if using the drive alternative..or the camps/lodges' own guides, if you fly.

Do research on FF for recommended companies...narrow search to Kenya and you'll see some mentioned. I've used Gamewatchers , and another unnamed company (wouldnt recco that one) for Kenya; used African Pearl Safaris for Uganda--it was fine, but next time, would also check Churchill. For Kenya next t time, I would check Dawn in Africa, a small local company that gets rave reviews on tripadvisor forums. Ive been in touch with the owner, Simon, and he was already very helpful.

note that all the sites' itineraries are totally flexible.

Trip planner, i realize your mind isn't made up yet, but what I think most recommends Kenyaand/or Rwanda, and/or Uganda) as destinations, vs South Africa, is HOW different they are. I havent been to So Africa in over 40 yrs (!) and was inE Africa for first time on that same trip, but even then, the "feel" of East Africa vs South Africa was very, very different.
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Old May 29th, 2016, 02:00 PM
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CaliNurse, thank you so much for the wealth of information you're providing. As we continue our research, East Africa moves higher and higher on our list as we are still seeking different experiences, even though the dunes of Namibia tugs at us too. We have not reached the point in which we are deciding between flying versus hiring a driver, but are you suggesting that it would be possible for a driver to drive us for the entire time in Kenya if we went that route? What about rangers and / or trackers? If we flew and used camp / lodge vehicles, is there a limit on the number of visitors per jeep? Are the vehicles typically open or closed? Thanks again.
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Old May 29th, 2016, 05:14 PM
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Hi again -

You have been given great advice, and like all of us who return time and time again to Africa, you now know why!!!

Namibia – Namibia is an extraordinary country and very similar to South Africa that you can discover so many different landscapes, eco systems, flora and fauna, tribes and seascapes in one small country. The country is stark, vast and completely unspoiled. Though many, many people do it as a self-drive, you do not have to do so. There are many companies who will hire drivers for you and there are fly-in and fly-out opportunities too. Though we started out thinking we were going to drive, we ended up using two drivers who were fantastic. The drivers were fun, knowledgeable, knew places to stop that we didn’t, helped with gassing up the vehicle, our bags at lodges, and when we did not arrive at places on time and it fell dark, we were really glad that we had them with us. I went with a group of friends and our kids and so we had two super large 4X4 SUV’s which carried all of our luggage and all of us! The tour company you use will handle the rental of the vehicle and ensure that you get exactly what you need, including precise maps and points of interest. We added Namibia on to South Africa, so we only had 8 days but I could have stayed longer. We opted not to go to Etosha as we had limited time and went on safari in South Africa, but I hear it is amazing and will go for myself soon. Our itinerary was as follows:

Day 1 - Arrive Windhoek, pick up cars and drive to Sossusvlei, stay at the Sossus Dune Lodge

Day 2 - Early morning sunrise tour of the dunes, including Big Daddy and Dead Vlei, breakfast on the dunes

Day 3 - Tour and hike of Sesriem Canyon, Quad biking tour

Day 4 - Drive to Swakopmund, Mondesa township tour, stay at the Stilz

Day 5 - Sand boarding, visit to Cape Cross, drive to Damaraland, stay at Damaraland Camp

Day 6 - Breakfast in the bush, fly to the Angolan border for a day visit to a remote tribe of Himba people

Day 7 - Desert elephant trekking

Day 8 - Fly to Windhoek and onto to Joberg

I cannot tell you how amazing this trip was and we just skimmed the surface. We used Gemma Dry at Discover Namibia Safaris. There are lots of people on Foders, as well as Trip Advisor who have used this company. While taking her keen advice, we completely designed our own tour based on what we wanted to do and see, while she made all the plans – hotel reservations, car reservations, drivers, and told us where we should fly vs. drive. For us, the kids wanted to sand dune, I had to see Sossusvlei , all of us wanted to go to remote Damaraland to trek dessert elephants and I had to see the most remote tribe of Himba people that we could find. She made it happen in the time that we had.

I will post on Kenya and Tanzania in a bit.

I hope this helps.
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Old May 29th, 2016, 06:07 PM
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Lolazahra, thank you. This is incredibly helpful. Whichever our decision may be, it seems trip number three may be in order.
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Old May 29th, 2016, 06:18 PM
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We did Kenya and Tanzania together, which I highly recommend if possible. It is an extraordinary experience. While the game viewing in South Africa and Botswana are some of the best in the world, it is extremely targeted with trackers working extremely hard to ensure your sightings. Also, the Sabi Sand area and the areas where you traverse in the Delta based on the location of your lodge are small in comparison to the Mara and the Serengeti. In these areas, it almost feels biblical in terms of the sheer numbers of animals that you will witness in such a vast area of land. This is especially the case if you plan your trip around the migration in either country.

We started in Nairobi for three days doing volunteer work, going to cultural sights, shopping at craft markets, eating, and going to animal sanctuaries. We stayed at House of Waine at the beginning of our trip and the Tribe Hotel at the end prior to going to the airport on the way back home. We then flew to the Mara and stayed at a And Beyond property they owned at the time – Kichwa Tembo Safari Lodge. It seems they only own the tented camp now (which looks wonderful!) but we stayed at a permanent lodge. Highlights of the Mara was the magnificent game viewing, the comfort of the lodge and a visit to two Masai tribe villages.

We then flew to the Serengeti and specifically chose a mobile camp that was following the migration. The game viewing was prolific. Multiple kills, thousands of animals crossing the plains, lion interactions that are hard to describe – just awe inspiring. I loved the mobile tent in its simplicity and ability to provide such comfort at the same time. Hearing all of the animals around at night was a bit scary but thrilling as well! Our camp was in the Ndutu area at the time of our visit where we stayed at Olakira Camp, which is in the Asilia group of lodges. They have many in various price ranges. We then used our same guides and drive to Ngorongoro Crater. Thought crater can get busy, I cannot emphasis enough the magic of this area and the feeling of descending into the Crater floor. Animal sightings are again prolific. This was our spurge lodge as we stayed at the Nogorongoro Crater Lodge. It was magical but it is expensive. There are many other options on Fodors and on Trip Advisor.

Highlights for me was the game viewing and having a beautiful catered lunch on the Crater floor. On the way fron the Serengeti to the Crater, we stopped at Olduvai Gorge, which is an important paleoanthropological site where the first early human species was found. After the Crater we drove to Lake Eyasi, which was an experience in itself because of the horrible roads! So worth it though as we stayed at the modest yet warm Kisima Ngeda Tented Camp. I have never known such warm and gracious hosts before than at this lodge on the banks of beautiful Lake Eyasi. Our purpose was to trek with two of the most ancient tribes in all of Africa – the Hazabe and the Datoga. Following these nomadic hunters and gatherers who speak in “click” language only was an extraordinary treat. We ended our trip buy flying back to Kenya and ending on the beach in Mombasa. People who also crave the beach at the beginning or end of their visit consider Zanzibar as well.

This is just a snapshot into our trip. I can provide further details should you have more specific questions. The great thing about Kenya and Tanzania is that there are many, many choices for lodges in multiple price ranges. I am sure that you can find the perfect accommodation based on your personal budget.
Namibia or Kenya/Tanzania…..Hmmmm…..Hmmmmm…..
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Old May 30th, 2016, 03:42 AM
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Lolazahra, thank you again. Did you find there to be a price difference between Kenya and Tanzania? Did you stay multiple nights at each place? We stayed 4 nights at Kirkman's in Sabi Sand and 3 in Chobe, and found it to be perfect, but it seems like visitors to the parks in East Africa move around a bit more. Seems like most itineraries give a place 2 nights, 3 at best. Did you work with an agent and, if so, which? Would you recommend? From what I understand, Kichwa Tembo is still in AndBeyond hands in addition to a tented facility.
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Old May 30th, 2016, 06:03 AM
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Happy Memorial Day tripplanner001!

So glad to hear that Trip #1 was incredible! And, as I remember so many of us telling you, there is something about Africa that will tug at your soul and lure you back before long. Here you are planning Trip #2!

First of all, Africa is so incredibly diverse and there is so much to see as far as beauty, culture and animals. For the repeat traveler, this means that you can take many more trips and take advantage of seeing different areas!

No matter what you choose, it will be amazing! But since you have already had the opportunity to see both Sabi Sand and Chobe, then I'd switch it up because YOU KNOW YOU WILL MOST LIKELY GO BACK AGAIN!

I think that you should really consider East Africa. You would really enjoy the contrasting scenery (long sight lines, open plains etc) as compared to what I call a more "peek a boo" safari in Sabi Sand given thicker vegetation etc. Plus if you go during migration, it does add a whole new level of excitement with crossings etc. Exposure to the Masai Mara culture is so interesting as well!

AndBeyond delivers a value product: great service, food, accommodation and guides with knowledge. You can't go wrong! Kichwa Tembo would therefore be a great choice and, if you include a stay there with other AB lodges/camps, you could take advantage of their extended stay discount program. They also have their Fly Me Around East Africa which is great because it includes the cost of the internal flights. It's handled very well and the logistics are seamless. Clients love it but that particular package doesn't include Kichwa Tembo.

Bottom line is that no matter what/where you choose, it will be great. There are some many places to go that will stir your soul. You will definitely be planning Trip #3 shortly after your next return.

Happy to help!
Dianne
Africa Direct USA
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Old May 30th, 2016, 09:11 AM
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Thank you Dianne and Happy Memorial Day to you too. You were so right, as well as so many others here. But you know what, I could not be happier to be wrong in this instance.

As things stand now, East Africa is on top of our list. Namibia also appeals, but right now we think we save it for trip #3 along with a return to South Africa.

Glad to know that you are able to help with East Africa. I will make sure that you are on my list of agents to contact, although we are still a few months away from making a financial commitment. Speaking of which, would November / December be too late to finalize a mid-June to mid-July trip?
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Old May 30th, 2016, 01:17 PM
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Hi again, Tripplanner. to answer your questions:

YES, in Kenya, you can have ONE driver/guide with you the entire time,IF you do a land-ply safari. You can design your own, but you will see many many samples of them for differing numbers of days, on numerous travel companies' websites.

With a fly-in tour, the advantage is that you are saving time...plus,I love those little planes and little air fields! the pilots often have to circle several times to scar the animals off the landing strip! (Last time, flying from Samburu to Nanyuki nr Laikipia, the pilot laughed "Bloody antelope!!" as we circled twice in a four seater plane!) Expense wise, it might be more, especially for large family (but i think this is just you and your husband?) Another advantage of fly-in is that, depending on the roads you traverse in the game parks (or even between, in some cases your back will be saved from the infamous "African massage."

If you fly in to a place, you will use that camp/hotel's own guides/drivers. Some places have separate dude and driver (Porini Camps and I think Royal Mara, for ex) in some, the guide is the driver and vv, and will totally earn your admiration for excelling at both. Also, i believe most land-only safaris, where one company handles all the driving, use just the one driver/guide.

i hope this helps. If you do the Fodors search for "Kenya safari" or something similar, you'll find a bunch of posts about this, with company recess, questions like yours, etc. Also, there is a lively and busy board of the A forum.

One company that has been recommended on Fodors is DKGrand Safaris. Check their website. I earlier mentioned here, or similar, Dawn in Africa. Another poured about on TA is Glorious and several "Julius" safaris. Some are members of KATO Kenya Tour Operators Ass'n; others not. When checking the above websites, you'll see loads of sample itineraries. Gamewatchers's site lists accommodation other than their own Porini tented camps. Don't let the prices put you off!!! There are less expensive alternatives, although they will be in much larger tented camps, (e.g. Fig Tree) or lodges (Mara Serena, Keekorook--Masai Mara's first ever lodge . Just to give an idea, if you look at Booking.com, you can see some of the prices, to get an idea of the enormous price range. Again, as LZ said, the variety of price..and type of lodging...is enormous. Wherever you stay, it will be amazing...trust me.

At your time of year, when animals are likely to have crossed into Kenay from the Serengeti, i'd stick with just Kenya IF you ave limited time...altnough, as Lolazara describes, TZ is amazing not just for plains wildlife but also Olduvai Gorge, the Ngorngoro Crater, etc. And I must again put in a plug for a combined Kenay-Uganda trip!!
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