Operators/outfitters/etc.
Me. I booked Macushla directly and used their recommended taxi service for pick-up, drop-off and my day in Nairobi. No problems whatsoever. I think I paid 6000 shillings for a day out and about--was picked up at 10am and by the time Sandi and I finished dinner at the Norfolk it was 10:30pm (sorry, Wilson, for keeping you out so late).

I burned my remaining Flying Blue miles for the flights to/from Kigali. Kind of a waste given the fuel surcharge and the low cost of the flight but my miles were going to expire in August anyway. We were delayed at Bujumbura airport for an extra 45 minutes but unlike Imelda and her husband, I did not mistakenly deplane in Burundi. By the way, that airport is fantastic looking. They just don't design them like that anymore.

I sort of used Kennedy at Waymark to book Kicheche and the Safarilink flights from Tsavo to the Mara. I also sort of just did it myself--it was a dual effort. For something like that, it probably would have been just as easy to do it myself because there wasn't much to be done. And of course Patty knows all the flight schedules by heart.

Which brings me to Fodorite poster Patty, who got me my flights to and from NBO with miles, something I never would have been able to accomplish on my own. She also dealt with Sheldrick for Ithumba. I'll let her describe that.

I used R&N Xplorer for the Rwanda portion of my trip.
Because of that one bad review here a couple of years ago, I was a little anxious about R&N and so was one of those annoying clients who emails a lot to make sure everything's okay. My primary concern was my gorilla permits. And yes, it all went off without a hitch: I was picked when I was supposed to be, the vehicle was in good condition, I was taken everywhere on the itinerary in comfort, my hotel reservations were all fine, my permits were all fine (PTL), etc., etc.

I did drop some Fodorites' names beforehand to Nyagah as an insurance policy. Seema and Wayne, you and your spouses are remembered fondly. Jules, I didn't know your real name so couldn't drop it.

http://www.gorillasafaris.netfirms.com/

Eastern and Southern Safaris
Patty and Mark always book with Eastern and Southern so when I tagged along I did too, by extension. ESS was great: very professional, responsive, responsible. Julius, who had always been Patty and Mark's driver-guide, had been promoted to transport director, so we had a new driver-guide, Ben. I just loved him, what a character, lots of fun and a very nice person. A birder who was very patient with my complete lack of knowledge about birds. Spotted a leopard right as we drove in to Tsavo West. More to come on Ben.

http://www.essafari.co.ke/

Rwanda
"Mer-kuh-tour."
My flight was delayed in Bujumbura so long. When I got to Kigali no one was there to meet me. Stressed, crabby and eye-rolling at myself, I thought, "Oh great, this is exactly what I was worried about." One of the guides (I've forgotten which company) waiting to pick up clients asked me who was supposed to pick me up. "Mer-kay-tor." "Who?" "Mer-kay-tor." "Mer-kuh-tour?"

He called and my guide had been waiting outside. He was inside in two minutes. I exchanged money in the airport (not enough!), and off we went.

The Two Augustins
My R&N/Mercator driver-guide was Augustin. Tall, thin and laidback, Augustin speaks French, Swahili, Kinyarwanda and English. It was harder to communicate in Rwanda than I had anticipated or had experienced in Kenya and Tanzania. I think it's the added layer of French which is now, apparently, known as "the colonial language." Or at least that's what a few Rwandans told me when I tried to speak French.

The other Augustin. My first trek was Golden Monkeys. I and a family of four South Africans set off from park headquarters tot he trail head. They were staying at Sabinyo Silverback Lodge. Because their vehicle was full (of them), the ORTPN guide Augustin came with Augustin and me. This arrangement would continue the next two days. Two additional days would have been even better.

Francois on the Motorbike
One of the nice things about staying at Kinigi Guesthouse is the proximity to the park. Coming back one afternoon from a longer trek we spied the famous Francois going home for the day on the back of a moto-taxi.

Kinigi with Mary, Maria, Winnie and the Gang
When I arrived at Kinigi Guest House it was a bit more basic than I expected. Or rather, it wasn't more basic but as a solo traveler for me it's more cheerful to be someplace less basic. I was so, so tired after getting up at four in the morning to get ready to go to JKIA to fly to Kigali to sit in the heat on the tarmac in Bujumbura to have Augustin I drive me around Kigali speaking in Bantu-inflected non-French-colonial English to arrive in Kinigi to get a really good, spacious room with a newly cut key that wouldn't work in the lock to be moved to the room next door that was more grim...

Luckily the ladies at Kinigi Guest House are a warm, interesing crew and the particularly nice thing about staying several nights is settling in and chatting (okay, sans nuance because of the language difficulties) with the people who work there.

You Look Nice Today. We Like That.
I wore a dress one afternoon after gorilla trekking. Winnie, Mary and Maria were happy to see me looking a bit more feminine. I got a pedicure before I left on this trip and Mary, the receptionist at the guest house, really thought it looked great.

Primates
There's nothing I can say about the gorilla trekking experience that hasn't been said before. It was for me almost unreal, the fulfillment of a lifelong or near-lifelong dream. That hour goes by in the blink of an eye, but it's full of rolling, playing, munching, crunching, nursing, swinging, bellowing, approaching gorillas.

Gorillas!

I first saw the Agashya Group, formerly known as Group 13. Fantastic and an easy walk. How kind of them. The next day I saw the Amahoro Group. They decided it would be fun to relax on a steep incline. There were times this day that I was a little concerned I'd roll down a few meters and land in the lap of one of the two silverbacks. Luckily I managed to keep my balance and that didn't happen. Otherwise this report would be taking a decidedly different direction.

Gorillas!

Resource:
Atravelynn's Have Orthotics Will Track report was my best resource outside of the Rwanda Bradt Guide for gorilla trekking. I religiously followed her packing and tipping pointers and then promptly forgot everything upon arrival and really went haywire. I should have written it all down! But everything worked out fine in the end.

http://www.fodors.com/community/africa-the-middle-east/have-orthotics-will-track12-assorted-primate-treks-in-a-3-week-safari.cfm

Hi Leely,
I haven't even been on my first safari yet, but your trip is making me want to plan the next one to see the gorillas. I have an insignificant question (in light of all your wonderful descriptions), but did you happen to see the two-bedroom cottage on the grounds of Macushla?

crosscheck, dang, I am sorry. I knew there was something I was supposed to scope out at Macushla but I forgot what it was. For what it's worth, I stayed in two different rooms, one at the start of my trip and the other at the end. At the start I stayed in room 6, which is not connected to the main house but is a short walk across the terrace. It was more spacious than room 3 (?) in the main house--although of course both were plenty big for me and my luggage. I would think that a separate cottage would be substantially bigger than a room in the main house so I wouldn't worry too much about it. It's a nice property, quite relaxing, and a very good value in Nairobi. Hakuna matata.

No worries - Actually, I think you were supposed to check it out for someone else who wasn't sure if they would fit in a regular room with kids. We're thrilled to be in the cottage, especially because was no other availability anywhere in Karen on our dates. I will look for the thread of the other family and check it out for them next week.

Ooh! Goody - welcome back Leely - can't wait to read your report in detail!

Cyn

I'm enjoying your report. Looking forward to more. Thanks.

Welcome back - looking forward to more.

Leely, hi - enjoyed reading your comments and now I want to go on Chimp safari - oh where is the time and money!!

...What did you think of Toren in AMS? (We are going before our safari in Sept & Toren was on the list - just wondering)
and also Holiday Inn vs. Norfolk in Nairobi - our first night is at Macushla --but last night won't be - researching, etc. for that now. Any comments helpful;
and so glad you managed carry-on! I will be doing so for the FIRST time!

Tx again
MoneyBurns

Hi Leely,

Your trip sounds great! That was me that was asking about the size of the rooms in Macushla. Actually, I thought I had missed you because I wrote and asked you about it just as you were about to leave. Macushla warned that the room might be a little tight with an extra twin bed in it. They offered the cottage but we turned it down fearing that it might mot be as nice as the main house. I'm not sure if it's still available or even necessary. We're only there one night. Anyway, no worries about not checking. Crosscheck said she would check it out when she was there. Sorry for the side track, back to Gorillas!

Forgot to mention... we are also using Eastern & Southern so I'm glad to hear you were so pleased with them. Please let me know if you have any pointers or know of any requests we should make. Thanks.

moneyburns, I liked the Toren. It is very designed, a tiny bit slick, but extremely comfortable and well-located. I stayed in a small single and it was indeed small but cozy. Price was great for the quality (my room was only 115E to give you a frame of reference). Staff was helpful and kind. Breakfast was good.

I only had dinner at the Norfolk with Sandi from this forum, so can't speak to the rooms. Looked like a standard/good Fairmont property, though, and Sandi said the hairdryer was first-rate. The Holiday Inn was quite nice and I'd stay again. There's a Tex-Mex resto in the lobby where Patty and Mark and I had dinner. Surreal but not bad.

Caveat: I'm not a picky person when it comes to hotels, so if you are you might want more discerning feedback.

And yes, you should definitely consider adding gorillas and/or chimps to your next safari.

For those who may be interested, accommodation photos are here:

http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/rwanda_kenya_netherlands_accom

If I find I took more on the other camera I will add them later. The outdoor bathrooms at Ithumba, for example, are fantastic and I can't believe I didn't photograph them. Unless I got scared by the snakes...

Safari pictures forthcoming--they are a lot harder to choose than pics of rooms and tents.

Rwanda, cont'd.

Numbers
Three Treks, One Guide, Ten Thousand Photos.
80+, 24, 17 = The number of gorillas in the golden monkey troop I saw, the number of gorillas in Agashya (includes many babies), and the number of gorillas in Amahoro.

After receiving advice here, I decided to start Rwanda with a soft landing: golden monkey trekking. They are difficult to photograph (if you're me) but not difficult to see. Once we reached them after an eays hike lasting about an hour, we were in their world. They surrounded us. Even mated around us, though I have decided to be discreet and not include that photo. That photo by the way includes a golden monkey voyeur. So the Photographer wasn't the only jerk.

http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126202246
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126202315

Early Hours
All this fun means arriving at park headquarters prior to 7am. My driver-guide Augustin told me, "Let's meet at 6:30," and Kinigi Guest House is approximately a four-minute drive from HQ. So if you're staying further away prepare yourself. Of course you'll probably be so excited you'll be up all night anyway, obsessively packing and re-packing your daypack.

Second trek I left my wallet in my room. I discovered that when I was looking for money to buy a cap at the HQ shop before my trek. This is the downside of solo travel, especially if you are slightly disorganized: there is no one to remind you of what you're probably forgetting. Luckily because I was staying so close and we had arrived so early, we had time to rush back to the room where I found my wallet on the floor by my bed next to my toothbrush and cell phone (?!?)

Breathless
I am quite fit for an old broad and run hills several times a week--for fun or vanity, not sure which. However, I did feel the altitude on my treks in PNV. It was not remotely disabling; I just mention this because I was a bit surprised. I was out of breath quite easily just walking up slight inclines at a moderate pace. The day I trekked with a bunch of young European overlanders I was definitely at the back of the pack. The other days I was bushwhacking up front. Won't mention the makeup of my fellow-trekkers on those days.

If you are very out of shape, it's probably worth getting a bit more fit prior to leaving for your primate adventures. Just some good walking, etc. Or maybe hire a couple of porters. There are always at least several that no one hires and they need the work.

http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126094198
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126173896

Leely, I've been waiting for your report eagerly and hesitate to say "hurry up"!
Those Golden Monkeys are stunning.

Leely,
Yep I love accommodation photos as I hardly trust the web sites. Toren looked very - stylish? Thanks for all the pics; Kicheche tent looked VERY nice,but if I cannot pronounce it, I can't stay there! (Was that a bottle of wine in the bathroom area; if so I am traveling with you next time.)
I do like nice accommodations; I guess it is the princess in me.

I saw Sandi's glowing review of the hair dryer. After weeks in a tent, you'd think you could get a decent hair blower; on my frizz it won't matter.
Only two decisions left and then to see if my stuff fits in the carry-on. DH just balls everything up and throws it in a backpack but what does he care about style (or photos) on a trip.

REALLY love the golden chimps. Next go round for sure I am finding chimps.
Thank you for taking the time to indulge my pitiful questions about rooms.(I wish I did not care!)

MB

Great details and looking forward to more!

Rwanda, cont.
Good Roads and a Sad History
It's pretty easy to get from point A to point B in the northern/northwestern part of the country. The roads are some of the best I've seen in Africa. As others have noted, Rwanda is a small, densely populated country and there are people everywhere, walking, walking, walking, riding bicycles, always carrying and toting something--water, sticks for firewood, grass for goats--always working at something.

When I arrived in Kigali a large truck was askew on the side of one of the roads out of town. There was a woman on the ground. She may have been dead. I hope not.

Augustin, my R&N/Mercator driver-guide didn't speak much about the history and culture of the country until my third day. He began to talk to me about gacaca, reconciliation, atonement. He talked to me about the genocide. He talked to me about the possibility that older people are telling younger people bad things about Hutus/Tutsis in the privacy of their homes today. He spoke nothing of himself, his family, his friends and what they experienced. And yet this otherwise very relaxed, laidback Rwandan's voice began to shake and his eyes got wet each time he discussed the sad chapters in recent Rwandan history.

Good morning teacher! Please sit down.
Some of the very young children would say this as a greeting to me as we drove by. Mostly, though, it's Bon jour, Hello and Mzungu!

The day we were leaving the trailhead for the Amahoro Group I saw some kids running with new pens. No! Someone had given them pens from a car. Oy. I hadn't seen much of that in Rwanda. It's becoming a problem.

Gisenyi and Lake Kivu
Are worth a stop if you have time. My final gorilla trek to the Amahoro Group that morning took a while, so I didn't get to Gisenyi until almost dinner time. It's very pretty, especially the little stretch of beach at Paradis Malahide, which is a more traditional option than, say, the Serena up in the busy town.

For what it's worth, the Swiss couple I met at the Kinigi Guest House told me they liked Kibuye much better, said it didn't feel as built-up and "walled up." They were self-driving but had rented their vehicle from--guess which company? Mercator by way of R&N.

Note to atravelynn:
If you see this, another woman I met at the Guest House is working in Goma in DRC. She says Goma is a "hidden gem," and that there are many great hikes, day trips, etc. Of course if they can stabilize, gorilla trekking should/would/could be (is?) quite excellent in DRC too. Let's keep our fingers crossed.

Good stuff Leely. All very readable, interesting and nicely illustrated. And isn't it so 'right' that we are all commenting on your report again rather than the other way around.

Thanks for the tip on getting fit or hiring porters! I would never have thought of the latter, and you know Mrs K doesn't like walking.

I'm waiting for Tsavo and the tsetses, but take your time; this is good.

Excellent monkey photos and wonderful cultural observations (the teary genocide discussions remind me of Cambodia, where you see nobody over 40). What is the political situation in Rwanda now?

This is a great report!

The famous Francois on his motorbike, I can picture it now. How cute you were the fashion hit at Kinigi in your dress. What an honor to be a resource! Thank you.

I agree that the golden monkeys are not good photo subjects but they're everywhere once you find the troop.

Thanks for the hidden gem comment.

Your "good roads and sad history" comments on how your guide discussed (or did not) the history are moving.

Now to check the photos.

I take that back that golden monkeys are not good photo subjects. You have outstanding shots of them and some very expressive gorillas. I enjoyed the photo of the room at Kinigi Guest House--a simple room with lots of great memories.

lynn so glad RnX worked out for you as they did for us! Those gorillas are magic aren't they?!

Patty,
I am fascinated with your report. Especially the part about what the driver in Rwanda felt about recent events. Thank you for sharing. An incredible experience.
I am thinking of dropping a TO and booking Kicheche camp for 5 days thru them. Thanks to your link, I found they have pkgs that include air and private vehicles-awesome! Are the tents on the ground or elevated a bit? Also, did you notice if they have twin beds (verses doubles)? And since we may be there 5 days, how was the food?

Oh my gosh-I got mixed up. It was Leely, not Patty I meant to address my message to-so sorry!!

karn, Key difference: Patty is a lot more organized than I am. Now to answer your questions...

The tents at Kicheche Bush are not raised, although because it's a permanent rather than seasonal camp they are on permanent stone "floors." FYI, the toilet and sink have running water but it's bucket showers @ KBC. I had zero problems with this and it seemed as if there was more water than other bucket showers I've had; however, your mileage may vary. I think I saw on another post that bucket showers were out of the question for you. Just so you know where I'm coming from, I'm someone who doesn't mind a bucket shower unless it's really cold.

Food was excellent! Great staff, guides and management. I found the camp to be extremely comfortable, even luxurious, and the conservancy in general great. There are three resident lion prides if lions are of interest.

Good luck with whatever you decide and please post a report--even if short and sweet--when you return.

Thanks for all the comments. I do appreciate them. Trying to cull through a bunch of crappy photos is what's taking so long. Plus work is interrupting the important things in life, like reliving this trip. And once

Rwanda
Hot Springs
There are some hot springs by Gisenyi, written up in the Bradt book. I'll have to send a note to the editors because it's still not much of a tourist site. Augustin took me there and there were two men and a woman bathing in the springs. It felt like walking into someone's bathroom! Interesting, but a bit too much like I was a practicing cultural anthropologist (i.e., too invasive) for me. Then another woman came up and told us how they cook potatoes and eggs in the water and then wanted money from Augustin. So, yeah, it was one of those African experiences that makes you feel like a creep. And no, of course I didn't take pictures.

Rwanda final thought: GO!
I want to encourage anyone who may be slightly interested in gorilla trekking to try to do it--even trekking-averse Mrs. Kimburu. It's truly an amazing experience and well worth any hassle. For me it was also rather addictive. I felt I could have gone and visited every group (twice!) if only I had the money and time. Stupid reality intervened as usual.

Rwanda itself, or at least the tiny corner I visited too briefly, is stunning, painful and beautiful. Go and decide for yourself!

My heart already felt as if it were shredding a bit the closer it got to my departure date. Then of course I visited the Genocide Memorial in Kigali before my flight back to Nairobi and it was...well, can't put it into words really, very well done as a museum and memorial. It's unbelievable, shocking, horrifying, especially the room with the photos of the children with the notes from their families about their favorite toys, their character, their quotes and then the causes of their deaths.

I wish the Rwandan people well as they try to recover from the the genocide and its effects--and as we all try to understand fully its causes. I hope to return soon.

They are building a big Microsoft factory(?) in Kigali now, so I think Bill Gates wishes the Rwandans well too.

Leely,
You are correct, my travel partner is not interested in tents on the ground or bucket showers. However, I don't mind in the least. I'm going to work on her Wish me luck!!
Yes, I will post a report when we return.

And Back to Kenya
The flight back from Kigali didn’t involve a stop in Burundi. KQ had special shirts the flight attendants were wearing during my trip. They said “Go Africa!” on the front with a soccer ball. On the back they said “Kenya Airways.” I wanted one. Sorry to see the joy and excitement everyone was feeling about World Cup had to be ruined so tragically with the bombings in Kampala this weekend.

Friends
Met Kennedy and Val at the Stanley for a quick GTG and to pick up safarilink air vouchers that he didn’t think I needed but I wanted for peace of mind. (He was right.)

Arriving at the Holiday Inn, I ran smack into jet-lagged and seriously delayed--but friendly--Patty and Mark in the lobby. We decided to have dinner there in the Tex-Mex place. It was fine/good Watch out for the “sauce” they put on the burgers.

Traffic Jams, Pit Stops and the Elephant Greeting Committee
Patty and Mark can now attest that I get lost pretty much everywhere. I got lost on my way to breakfast at the Holiday Inn (good breakfast, by the way). Patty came and found me wandering around in the dark. I had been instructed to go to the breakfast area “by the pool” but I discovered an entirely different pool. Eureka?

After stopping for supplies at Nakumatt and a long traffic jam caused by the President making an appearance somewhere, we were on the way to Ithumba. It was a long but enjoyable drive. Ben, who was doing the driving, might not characterize it as “enjoyable,” but I don’t think he hated it.

"Nobody Goes There"
How someone described going to the part of Tsavo East we visited. No one does. People on the side of the roads just stared at us as if to say, “What on earth are you doing here, of all places?”

We’re going to see elephants.

karn, yes, I meant to say that they will do twin beds at Kicheche Bush Camp. It's a wonderful camp but of course we all like (and fear!) different things, so if your travel partner must have a raised tent that's probably the way to go.

Welcome back, Leely. Really enjoying this, so you can keep going for a long, long time
Can't wait to read about Tsavo & the rest of the trip.
Sangeeta

Kenya, cont'd.
Do You Like Elephants? Do You Love Elephants?
If you like elephants you’ll love going to Ithumba. As I may have mentioned a million times, it is located in an extremely remote part of Tsavo East with very little in the way of visible game and absolutely no tourists--except for us/you if you’re there. The landscape is scrubby and the animals are very shy. We never saw another vehicle. We did see many, many tracks, heard a leopard at night, saw a cheetah through Ben’s spotting scope (Mark spotted it with his bare eyes first, though), and spied countless birds.

But the name of the game at Ithumba is elephants.

If you haven't been to Nairobi and/or haven't heard of the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage there, here is the link:
http://www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org/

Ithumba Camp is located where some of the the bigger orphans from Nairobi are slowly introduced back into the wild. As a camp guest you are welcome to visit the stockade where the younger ones still spend the night for the morning and evening feedings, and meet up with them for the midday feeding at the waterhole.

Yes, you get to feed young elephants. Yes, it's touching. But watch out for your camera. Those trunks are strong.

Ithumba and Finch Hattons: Patty's photos and report
Patty has posted her photos and will be (I hope) starting her report soon. Here is the beginning:
http://www.fodors.com/community/africa-the-middle-east/the-kuku-that-didnt-kill-us-culinary-adventures-in-ithumba-other-tales.cfm

She also links to her report from their trip to Ithumba with Joyce and Rod last September. In that report she gives many practical details about the camp, how to reserve and book, what to expect, etc.

The camp is self-catering but I imagine you could arrange with your tour op to have a cook come with you if you really don't want to be bothered. Fortunately we had Mark (and Petra too). Leely is a decent cook but doesn't know how to cook for groups. Ben, our Eastern & Southern guide, and I, apprehensive about fending for ourselves in the wilds of Tsavo East, seriously insisted on over-buying. It's not a huge deal because the guys working at the camp can have the extra stuff. They are pretty isolated down there and can't just bop over to a Nakumatt when they're running low and/or want some variety. Still, we had enough to feed a small army.

No wonder that leopard was poking around outside the kitchen at night.

This is so good I don't need to write anything

Patty... Good try, but Leely has clearly skimped on details at Ithumba so that there is plenty left for you to write about. Not least a certain guitar (which seems to be missing from your gallery).

Leely... Except for the part about her not needing to write anything, I agree with Patty. Did you go out spotting with a torch at night at Ithumbu? Are there rules about going out at night? Did you even want to go out at night?

kimburu, I just heard the leopard. I'm not one to go out of my tent by myself at night, especially when there's that weird leopard motobrike noise. But no, I don't think there are rules at Ithumba. Guests are governed by their common sense. Patty's husband Mark gets up so early it's essentially night. But if he didn't who would make the coffee?

Sorry, I haven't gone through all my photos, so I'm just putting a few up here and there.

Kenya, cont'd.
Future Movie Stars
Three orphan elephants had been moved to Ithumba from the baby elephant orphanage in Nairobi just about ten days before we arrived. Apparently the arrival of Kilaguni, Sabachi and Chaimu has drawn the two independent groups back to the stockade nearly daily. (Waiting for Patty to explain all this!) So we had lots of interaction not just with the keeper-dependent eles, but with Wendi’s and Yatta’s groups. And they are very mischievous, blocking the road, mock-charging us, making Ben, whose uncle was trampled by an elephant in their village eight years ago, very nervous. Okay, I was a bit nervous sometimes too. I like to think of it as a healthy respect for the animal.

http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126307783
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126555146

IMAX Studio is making a film about the orphans, and the stars are Kilaguni, Sabachi and Chaimu. Kilaguni has lots of charisma which I am sure will translate onto the big screen.

http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126560336
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126556730

Going to Somalia
One day at Ithumba Camp Petra, Sammy, Ben and I decided to take a game drive. Petra and I wanted to see more of the park, and Sammy and Ben are birders. None of us had high hopes for, say, simba, we just wanted to see what we could see. Patty and Mark opted to game sit and go see the eles at the mudhole for their midday feeding/swimming.

We drove and drove for hours until we couldn’t exactly determine where we were even though we had a good park map. We finally saw a signpost far in the distance. When we approached it, the sign looked very new, very nice. Nothing, however, had been written on it. Someday maybe. Not today.

Petra had an idea that if we took all right turns we would eventually end up back at camp. Ben and Sammy were in favor of returning via the road we had been driving. Petra thought that didn’t sound very exciting. Petra has been living in Kenya for over 20 years. Sammy and Ben are both native Kenyans, a guide and a birding guide. None of them had ever been to Tsavo East.

“We have to turn around. We don’t know where we are,” said Sammy.

“I do. I know where we are,” said Petra.

“Where are we then?” asked Sammy.

“I am certain we are in Kenya.”

“Oh, are you sure? We’re not in Somalia?”

We turned around and drove the same road back to camp. Patty, Mark and Ben later mapped out what may have been a better game drive route. Next time we’ll be ready.

Saw dik dik, kudu, elephants, a monitor lizard, and many birds on our long, dusty drive to Somalia. Again, the animals are very shy and the landscape is scrubby in this part of the park. But if you want the feeling of being absolutely in the middle of nowhere...wow. If we had gotten lost you wouldn't be reading this report.

http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126200697

Leely, you crack me up and I truly need it (nursing my lab back from TPLO surgery) and I am so enjoying reading your report.
How I would have loved to be on your game drive to Somalia, as evidenced by my bumper sticker on my" wind up"toy car (bug) : Caution -Blonde Thinking.
Didn't think any of youal were blonde, however.

MB

Guests are governed by their common sense.

Or lack thereof

We'd leave for the stockade around 5:45am for the morning feeding so Mark would usually be up by 5:00am making coffee (sometimes accompanied by me). That's when we saw the really cool stuff (aside from the eles of course) like the bat eared foxes, genet and Mark came 2 feet from a puff adder (I wasn't around that time).

“I am certain we are in Kenya.”

That's so classic Petra

Oh Leely Yes Yes Yes to the following

"I felt I could have gone and visited every group (twice!) if only I had the money and time. Stupid reality intervened as usual.
My heart already felt as if it were shredding a bit the closer it got to my departure date. Then of course I visited the Genocide Memorial in Kigali before my flight back to Nairobi and it was...well, can't put it into words really, very well done as a museum and memorial. It's unbelievable, shocking, horrifying, especially the room with the photos of the children with the notes from their families about their favorite toys, their character, their quotes and then the causes of their deaths. "

We too went to the museum on the way out of Rwanda & had the same totally sobering experience. We have spent time in Cambodia & felt the same thing & other places in the world. It is horrible but it needs to be seen in person or on a documentary to get any understanding of the horror. Even then we really cannot know.....

moneyburns, you're right, no blondes on the trip to Somalia but perhaps some inner-blondes. I hop your lab is feeling better.

jules, glad to see you here! Where are you headed next?

Hi, sangeeta, moremiles, Lynn, lillipets, twaffle, long2, marija and cyn.

Kenya, cont'd.
Haven't I Seen You Someplace Before?
Another great thing about these safaris is the small-worldiness.

Ben, our ESS guide, is a birder. So is Sammy, Petra's boyfriend. Over dinner one evening we discovered that Sammy's good friend and fellow birder turned out to be Ben's nephew. Ben was the person who had first gotten his nephew interested in birds. Petra knows him as well.

We were at the stockade one day for a feeding and Hassan, one of the keepers who is the primary contact for camp guests, said to me, "Have you been here to Ithumba? I think we've met before." I said no. We talked a bit more and realized that we did meet at the Nairobi orphanage the year before he went to work at Ithumba. In 2004.

Sian
Sian was a six-year-old elephant at Ithumba. She was very thin and the Hassan told us she had been unwell for a while. The vet had been down the week before we arrived. No one knew what was wrong with her but she was getting progressively thinner and weaker, ate very little, not even milk. When the keeper-dependent orphans left the stockade every morning to spend the day out walking, browsing in the park, Sian would generally come back midday, exhausted and in need of rest.

One morning we went to the 6am feeding and arrived to find a bit of an emergency. Sian was lying down and wouldn't/couldn't get up. Even though she was small and thin, it still took about a dozen keepers and a very large branch to get her up. Apparently if elephants lie down for too long their organs are damaged. We stood there, frightened and sad, fully aware that she had been looking very bad during our visit and for some time prior. None of us took photos. I know I just stood there thinking "I hope I hope I hope, please Sian, please," not really deciding on what I should hope for because she seemed to be suffering.

But she did get up that day. Mark and Patty have sent me their DVD (thanks, guys) of the trip, and that evening at the feeding Sian is up and about and looking well. In the DVD you can hear us all telling each other, earnestly, hopefully, "She looks so good now. Doesn't she?" "Yes, much better. Hard to believe it's the same elephant from this morning," etc., as if to convince ourselves of the impossible.

I was in Amsterdam for two days at the end of my trip before returning to the States. I was just walking out of a museum when I got a text from Patty. The text said, "Sian died."

It was so interesting to see how the elephants at Ithumba had comforted and watched out for Sian while we were there, and how upset they had appeared the morning she wouldn't get up.

RIP, little one.
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126678810

Snakes!
We were at Ithumba three nights. While we were there Mark saw a puff adder snaking right in front of him across the trail from the tents to the kitchen. Sammy and Petra saw a green mamba in the awning over their tent. And Sammy and Ben saw a black mamba on the way to Somalia. (Petra and I were chatting about cameras and missed it.)

Njage, Kimwele and Josephat, the guys who work at the camp, told us it never fails. They had a man from Brazil come and stay at camp. He was dying to see snakes. They looked everywhere, even scouring the hills above and around camp. He never saw one snake.

I'm not crazy about snakes.

Kenya, part ?
The Nzuri Road
We said our goodbyes to Petra, Sammy, the staff at Ithumba, Hassan and the other keepers, and all the orphans as well as the trouble-making, road-hog ex-orphans, and left Tsavo East for Tsavo West.

The previous year Patty and her crew had taken the shortcut through the park because the river was so low they could cross it. The guys at camp told us no way we could cross it this year, so the shortcut was out. We'd have to return the way we came.

On our way in to Tsavo East, however, Ben had noticed a newish-looking road by the closest village. He thought it looked promising and appeared more direct, so when we were driving through the village he asked some of the people whether it was a good road or what and where did it go. We wazungu heard each of the people Ben asked say, "Nzuri," somewhere in the middle of their Swahili sentences. We got the gist: this road was nzuri, it was fine, the car could handle driving it and it would save us some time.

I hope Patty and Mark have pictures of the nzuri road. It felt like a game drive without the game. An off-road game drive through a rock-bottom riverbed. People walking their donkeys turned to stare. "What in heavens name are you doing driving a car on this road???" they seemed to ask.

But it was nzuri and we eventually made it to Tsavo West. We saved about 20 minutes and I was worried Ben might need therapy.*

*Kidding. Ben had become quite adventurous by this point and seemed to enjoy the challenge of navigating Nzuri Road.

Tears this morning over Sian; It is heartwrenching I am sure for her caregivers to work so hard to save these orphans only to lose one to who knows what. I follow Sheldrick on FB and there are so many heartwrenching stories, yet they continue to rescue, love and care for these adorable babies.
I can't wait to visit...

And to continue with your interesting and unusual TR...more like a visit to friends than a "typical safari"
I guess Ben didn't realize what he signed up for Good stories for his journal.

I really hate snakes; well really I don't hate them, I am petrified of them.

Hope they are not in the Mara.

MoneyB

Oh, so sad about Sian - poor little soul.

Great trip report so far, Leely - I'm really enjoying your adventure!

Finally getting a chance to read your report and enjoying it very much. Glad you were able to go to Ithumba, it's a pretty amazing place. The rest of your trip sounds so interesting and I envy you the gorilla treks.

joyce

I'd forgotten about the nzuri sana road! I can't believe I didn't take any pictures of it.

Patty, you were probably too busy hanging on for dear life! Leely, I love the report! I'm looking forward to more.

Kenya, from Tsavo to the Mara
Finch Hattons, a Leopard, Hippos and Crocs, Tse Tse Flies
Since Patty and Mark stayed for several more days in Tsavo, I hope she'll discuss the park in greater detail in her report. I was there only one day/night. We did see a leopard relaxing on a rock--quite easily (thanks, Ben)--shortly after entering the park. In general the game here is far more prolific than in the part of Tsavo East we had been visiting. All the ungulates were out in full force, more baboons, more vervets, more mongooses, some predators, some crocs, and of course hippos galore because Finch Hattons is right on the water.

http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126762291
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126762289
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126848393

We did run into tse tse flies on an afternoon game drive. No massacre.

The nice thing about Finch Hattons: you can just lie around on the deck of your tent and watch the hippos. The not-so-nice thing: there were teen boys in the tent next to mine loudly playing some kind of video game late into the night. I was pretty ticked off, almost wanted to yell, "I came here to fall asleep to the sound of hippos not the sound of your g-d video game!!!"

I kept it together, however.

Next morning, I hugged Patty, Mark and Ben and hopped on the flight to the Mara.

Loved Tsavo. I want to return.

http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/126848256

Flights, Kicheche Bush Camp and the Olare Orok Conservancy Notes
I flew Safarilink from the airstrip at Finch Hattons to Wilson via Amboseli. At Wilson I caught the 10am flight to the Mara. Easy. If you are a solo traveler you may need to pay for an extra seat to be picked up at Finch Hattons. I didn't know whether I was going to have to pay or not until the night before departing; in the end others were getting picked up too, so I only paid for my seat.

I have no point of comparison Mara-wise, but I thought the Olare Orok Conservancy was an excellent place to stay. There are only three camps on the conservancy so you pretty much have sightings to yourself or perhaps a vehicle from one of the other camps. The camp itself is beautiful and intimate. It feels like a very upscale bush camp, food's very good, staff very friendly, camp manager an interesting person, good conversationalist.

Guides and drives: extremely flexible, definitely cat-focused. If you have specific interests (birds, giraffes, flora), speak up and they will move heaven and earth to accommodate. All-day game drives, walks, whatever: the name of the game at KBC is flexibility.

My guide James picked me up at the Ol Kiombo airstrip and said, "You have been approved for a private vehicle for your stay." Music to my ears.

The Mara and More Music to My Ears
The last morning at Ithumba Ben had told us that he had received word that the wildebeest were already crossing into the Mara--a great many of them. He looked at me and said, "You will see the Migration after all." But I didn't believe it. At Tsavo the camp manager told us the same thing. But I didn't believe it. In the third week of June? No way.

Driving to Kicheche Bush Camp from the airstrip, James said, "So, they are coming already. You will see many crossings." Surrounded by the familiar and much-missed honking of wildebeest, I started to believe it.

Kenya, cont'd.
Stuck
Arriving at KBC, after a leisurely game drive in from the airstrip (lions, elephants, zebras, topis, lots and lots of wildies), I had lunch, unpacked and met with James and Anna, the camp manager, for tea before heading out for the afternoon game drive. The clouds were heavy and ominous to the west. James said it would rain. We all joked about getting stuck overnight. James and I headed out with our sundowner supplies.

The game drive was excellent. I got to see more of the conservancy and was introduced to the coalition pride with two male lions.

As it got dark, we dashed off to see a mama giraffe with its tiny, one-week old baby. Suddenly stuck in a big ditch right in the one part of the conservancy rife with tse tse flies.

"You seem to be parked at an unusual angle," said the manager of the conservancy. He had been driving by and spied us from far off. Saved just in time to get out of there and have drinks amidst the Cape buffalo.

Shaytay, I think you'd like Ithumba (and Rwanda if you haven't been). Check them out.

Joyce, I really wish you and Rod had been able to come too. And not just because of Mark's killer kuku.

So many places yet to go, Leely! I'll definitely keep them in mind. I've not been to the Tsavo area, but it's on my list.

"James said it would rain. We all joked about getting stuck overnight." Oh boy - you brought back a memory with that comment!

Did you get pictures of the baby giraffe?

How interesting Bill Gates is building in Rwanda. It can also serve as an excuse for him to go gorilla tracking more often after his onsite inspection.

A shredding heart is a perfect description of the impending departure.

Your hot springs account is a first. So you did not sample the potatoes?

Maybe we will see each other wandering around some day Leely as I get lost too. One of the worst is getting lost in the halls at the travel clinic that I go to at least every other year. If one can't navigate around the travel clinic, maybe one should not go on the trip.

I'm glad your tendency to get lost did not result in all of you ending up in Somalia.

I read up the to Sian story. That's a good place to halt for now. At least she is not suffering.

Kenya, the Mara, cont'd.
Nine Months. Nine Months and Two Days.
After the excitement of getting stuck, getting rescued, quick sundowners amid Cape Buffalo, I was up bright and early the next morning for a full-day game drive. I had slept pretty well, waking only when lions and hyenas were particularly loud. The honking of wildebeest is just like a white noise machine after awahile.

Leaving camp, James asked me if I wanted to go and try to see a crossing. Sure, why not.

As all the game drives from Kicheche Bush began, this one started with lions. Lions playing, drinking, and breakfasting on wildebeest. There were quite a few wildies on the Conservancy and I asked James whether they were resident or not. He said some were but that their resident herds didn't number this many and, as incredible as it seemed, some of these were part of the migration.

James is a Maasai. He grew up within a 30-minute walk to Kicheche Mara Camp. His job at Bush Camp means he is an hour's drive away from family. (Not bad compared to the keepers and staff guys and Ithumba who are days of travel from their loved ones.) He has been working for Kicheche for five years, his first and only employer. He started as a room steward and Kicheche later sent him to the Koiyiaki Guiding School. I believe he won the Silver medal for guiding last year.

James would be taking a week off after I left and spending it with his wife and child. During our bush breakfast that morning I asked him how old his son was. He replied, "Nine months. Nine months and two days."

Crossings and Matings
As we got closer to the river we saw more and more (and more!) wildebeest. After a while we were absolutely surrounded. James kept asking me, "How many do you think there are? I have been watching the Mara my whole life and I've never seen this many wildebeest." He and the other guides all seemed to be pretty excited about the early arrivals.

Although I had seen the tail end of the migration in the Serengeti in 2004, and a fuller picture in 2006, nothing prepeared me for this Mara spectacle. Wow. The crossings were chaotic and stressful, so many broken legs, so many near-escapes--and I didn't even see a kill. We saw the beginning of a kill, but the action moved closer to the bank above which we were perched too high/too steep to see the full event. We saw the initial snatch but not the final throes. I like to think that wildebeest got away. We saw many other nailbiters: weak-looking or stranded or slow or unaware wildies as b-i-g crocs swam up closer.

We watched four crossings that day, two of which were the big, dramatic kind rather than slower, streaming crossings. Amazing. The jumping, the following, the inability to get up the bank on the other side, having to swim back. I am not sure I would seek it out exactly. Why do they do this? It's so hard, so crazy. They must love that grass.

In the bushes near the river some lions were whiling away the time until their next meal by expressing their love for each other. Wink. They were mating next to yet another wildebeest carcass.

cyn, the only pictures I got of the baby giraffe were on my cell phone. Yep, I "pulled a Leely" and forgot to bring spare batteries on the drive. Yeesh.

Excellent description of the crossings...and the honeymooning lions. I think we came across the same ones.

crosscheck, I won't hurry you on your report or photos (though I am dying to see both), but did you get bitten by tse tse flies? And most importantly, what luggage did you all end up using?

No tse tses at all, nor any other biting insects - did you have them at Kicheche?

I will reveal our luggage choice in my report, since it ended up being a defining theme of our trip. Trying to catch up with work, but I should have my first installment and some photos by later in the week.

BTW, I just looked at your gorilla photos for the first time - Wow!!(I had only seen the golden monkey ones previously).

Okay, Leely.... now I understand why you got bitten by tse tses - drove into a hole! Perfect timing and lucky someone came along so quickly. However, I guess that was just prepayment for the crossings the next day.

Looking for Duma and More Celebrity Animals
I heard upon arriving at KBC, "We've had a cheetah family here on the conservancy since October but no one has seen them for four days." So we looked and looked. We saw lions. We saw leopards (Olive from BBC's Big Cat Diary + ?? young ones). We saw elephants, topis, waterbuck, bushbuck, giraffes, impalas, Tommies, Grant's, hyenas, black backed jackals, a tortoise, hippos, crocs, butterflies, a serval, and everything else under the sun but no cheetahs (nor pangolin nor rhino nor dogs). When we ran into other vehicles, which was rare this time of year, everyone said the same thing: "Have you seen cheetah?"

I had to remind myself repeatedly, "The focus of this trip was always going to be gorillas and elephants. Don't be so greedy. You had a bat-eared fox snacking on bugs outside your tent at Ithumba. You dodged a silverback and two baby gorillas in Rwanda. Your arm is all bruised and cut from baby elephants in Tsavo." And I had already seen the Migration, the crossings, that insanity. But finding myself in the wide open savannah again, I just wanted more.

Does this happen to other visitors? We did finally find three cheetah brothers, though not the family that had formerly been ranging on the conservancy. Beautiful creatures--but is it me or are there fewer cheetahs these days? Well, I know there are fewer, they are a far more fragile animal than the leopard, say. I suppose what I want is for people to tell me that they are somehow, impossibly, thriving. Tell me my expectations were simply too high for a day--just a morning, really, of concerted searching--in the Mara.

Which Do You Prefer, Lions or Elephants?
What James asked me as we chose a sundowner spot one evening. We chose elephants. As we sat there watching them, they decided to come down a bit and surround the vehicle.

The Dread Tse Tse Fly
Somewhere in Tsavo West and somewhere on the Olare Orok conservancy, and of course I have no idea where exactly, there are tse tse fly areas. Some people get bitten and don't feel it but then have really itchy, itchy reactions a day or so later (the Belgian woman staying at KBC and I) . Others get bitten and feel it and it hurts in the moment. Still others get bitten and have not much of a reaction at all: the guides, the camp staff, the Belgian woman's husband, the KBC camp manager, the other guests.

Some of us are just very lucky people. Anyway, this time I had a million bandaids, toothpaste, a topical from my derm leftover from a bout with poison oak I'd just gone through, Benadryl, etc. So I made a concerted effort not to allow any scratching--even sleep scratching. And it wasn't too bad.

"I Hear a Lion Playing."
James and I were watching some lion cubs on the conservancy. He asked if I was okay with my photos because he heard a lion "And it sounds as if it's playing with a mongoose." Eeek, that's what the shrieking was. Poor mongoose. At one point it got away from the lion and came flying under our vehicle. The lion waited, circling the car. The mongoose waited. And after about five minutes made a clean getaway.

Vincent
My tent steward at Kicheche Bush Camp. Studied business administration in university then went to work for a mining concern after graduating. He quit "Because it was too dangerous, not a good job." He hopes to advance in tourism. I hope Kicheche helps him because he is tops, just a great guy with so much going for him, very smart.

The End!
Kenya, Rwanda, how I love you. Like all these trips, I go for the wildlife and then I end up meeting so many delightful people.

When I left Rwanda, everyone said to tell my family and friends to come visit. Same with Kenya. They said, "Tell people to come to Kenya. Hakuna matata, we welcome them." So I say to the readers of this board, Go! Go to Rwanda. Go to Kenya. You won't regret it and you won't forget it.

I will post a link to my gallery/slideshow whenever I finish my photos. It's the editing that kills me, the necessary ruthless culling of all my little memories. In the meantime, if anyone has specific questions I am happy to answer. I realize I skipped many pertinent details and dwelled on the irrelevant.

Okay, Leely. I am convinced... I'll go!

Such a nice trip report and so interesting to read about someone else's visit to places I loved and want to go back to. I think I can wait another year now after 'revisiting' with you.

Your sightings were really rather impressive and I look forward to seeing those little momeories that survive the slaughter!

It's over? Really?? Darn!

Thanks Leely - really enjoyed your report. I look forward to seeing your photos.

What does one do with toothpaste for tse tse fly bites?

You've convinced me too...I'll have to go again, even though I just returned a week ago. I must confess I usually skim over people's trip reports, but yours was unusually entertaining and compelling.

FYI - The cheetah family (mom and two cubs) were very much present in the O.O. Conservancy during our visit. We saw two kills (both times with Kicheche vehicles present), and the mom clearly deserved celebrity status for her skill. We also spotted two other random, non-famous cheetahs on our way to view the crossing. I guess you'll have to go back as well!

Hi Leely!

I finally had a chance to read through your whole report -- what a wonderful trip you had, and I'm so glad you got to meet our friends, the family formerly known as Group 13.

You made me laugh out loud, and you also brought tears to my eyes (stirring up my own memories of Rwanda). In other words, you basically made my day. Thank you! MDK

Well folks, it looks like our Kenyan brethren may have a real constitution! Yay!

cyn, thanks for reading. I haven't seen any bear photos from you in a while. What gives?

crosscheck, how lucky you all were with the cheetahs! Isn't the O.O. Conservancy superb? I can't wait to see your pictures once you've settled in.

MDK, I'll be looking for your Mongolia report. Even though I don't think you should have another place you like as much as Sub-Saharan Africa.

And kimburu I look forward to reading about your journey into the heart of Bots--after the trip, of course. I hope there are adequate haggling opportunities for Mrs. Kimburu.

Lynn, there is a giant, almost-complete building that says "Microsoft" on it in Kigali. Given the lack of jobs in Rwanda my fingers are crossed for that place to be humming. This weekend I watched "Shake Hands with the Devil," the doc about U.N. General Romeo Dallaire's experience during the genocide. Interesting and of course heartwrenching.

Regarding the photos--wonderful bathing shots of the eles and drinking shot of the baboon. Cool perspective on the monitor. The migration surprise is nicely documented and though lions in the Mara are no surprise, you have great shots of them too!

Leely, wonderful trip and wonderful report. Thank you.

Leely,
How dare you change your name. I've been looking everywhere for this report but the 2 after your name threw me off. Does this mean that there are 2 or 3 of you?
Anyhow, love the pictures and your wonderfully done report. Your adventure sounds perfect - Gorillas, Patty and Mark - who could do better than that. This is a trip worth book marking. The Gorillas are waiting for me.

Forgot. Any reason why you picked the western summer to take this trip? Besides the migration in Kenya, I wouldn't think it wouldn't matter - true?

Hi cybor, good to see you again and thank you for the nice comments. There are definitely a whole gaggle of Leelys. Just ask Patty and Mark.

Gorilla trek timing:
I was originally planning on going to Rwanda and Kenya in late May. Then Patty asked if I wanted to join them at Ithumba and there was no way I was going to miss that. So I decided on June. I would imagine the trekking is more challenging during the very rainy season--April to mid-May according to the guides and rangers I spoke with. It rained overnight between my first and second trek and the second trek was definitely more of a slog. A guy from Sweden lost his shoe in the mud twice. It rained on our way down the mountain that day too.

My ranger* told me that his favorite time with gorillas is during "bamboo season," which I believe coincides with long rains. He says they eat the new leaves/shoots and get kinda drunk and goofy on them.

It's such a great experience I would go any time of year--but it's probably much more difficult in terms of walking and photography during long rains.

*I accidentally dramatically overtipped my first day and then had the same ranger each consecutive day. Weird.

My porter for my last trek. I definitely needed his help through the mud, under the bamboo, across the log, etc.:

http://www.pbase.com/image/127478582

Thanks. Good food for thought for when the economy turns around and people start realizing that they need my services.

The massive crossing and many wildebeest made a believer out of you. I like how getting stuck can be considered "parked at an unusual angle."

Maybe the abundant rain brought out the snakes. I'll be looking for them.

To save 20 minutes the nzuri road was not such a great deal.

Leely,
I finally got to read your excellent TR all the way through. Ithumba, gorillas, the migration. Wow, what a terrific trip! And a good read, too.
Your conversation with James about his son reminded me of talking with our TZ guide, Joseph. His family lives in southern Tanzania and he goes home to visit them during the heavy rains in April/May. I'm reminded of how often people in developing countries have to live far away from their families in order to make a living.
I really enjoyed your pictures of gorillas and monkeys. But I especially enjoyed those from Ithumba as we sponsor a couple of Sheldrick eles and intend to visit Ithumba.

Good memory Leely! No bear photos this year - but this is some of what I've been seeing out back: http://tinyurl.com/3ynol8m

cyn, those are beautiful photos. I'm really impressed.

I have not been on this board in months, but how wonderful to log in and see mention of gorillas and R&N Xplorer. I am glad I am still remembered out there

You mentioned the guides were excited about the early crossing. It's always a thrill when the guides, who have just about seen it all, get genuinely excited. You know you have something unique.

I hope the cheetah family on the conservancy is flourishing.

If James could detect a lion playing with a mongoose by sound, he is one heck of a guide!

Wayne, hi there! Read any good books lately?
Crosscheck, what a shameless promo for your report.
"I will reveal our luggage choice in my report, since it ended up being a defining theme of our trip." But it has me wondering.

What a fantastic report that turned into a love story in the last line. Thank you to all the Leelies that contributed.

"So I say to the readers of this board, Go! Go to Rwanda. Go to Kenya. You won't regret it and you won't forget it. "

i am, i am! at least i hope to this june.
loved your report and your style.
i couldn't help crying for sian.

leely2,
i followed your lead in dropping names with r & n.
although i do not know 'real' names, i mentioned that they had come recommended by fodorites.

i just had to read this over again.

leely, what a fantastic trip. thanks for all the tips not to mention the luggage and the lunch.
i hope my trip is just as good as yours.
xoxo