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South africa, northern cape, please comment our travel plans

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Old Sep 18th, 2010, 09:21 AM
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South africa, northern cape, please comment our travel plans

Northern Cape: please comment our route?
Hi everybody,

In november we are doing the northern cape, see here our route: (if you copie this below, it works..)

We are doing:

Joburg, 2 nights
Kuruman: 1 or 2 nights
Tswalu Private Game Reserve: 3 nights
Witsand Nature Reserve: please advice, 2 or 3 nights, and which place has best accommodation, bit luxury, till about R 1000 per night per room (B&B). How to enter witsand, from Postmasburg and stay overnight there, or from Grobbelershoop or?? I guess after Witsand it is faster to drive back direction olifantshoek (n14) and than continue to Upington. This because my route takes a long time...Please advice
Augrabies: 3 nights
Upington: 2 nights, after to Prince Albert
Is there anything we miss than in the north?

This is our route, if you copy this whole in the internet, it works....

http://maps.google.nl/maps?f=d&sourc...2,9.832764&z=7

thanks, Albert
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Old Sep 18th, 2010, 01:07 PM
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I am not able to comment on all of your itinerary, but I will offer the following.

We visited Witsand in 2005, and accessed it from Upington and Groblershoop. Below is my description of our visit. As you'll read, the last bit of road into the reserve was appalling, However, it was a lovely spot and we wished we could have stayed another night - we tried, but it was fully booked.

<i>Leaving Upington, we drove 220km south to the Witsand Nature Reserve in the Northern Cape, our destination for the night. The last 45km to the reserve was on an incredibly rough dirt road, and I feared for our car. I began to wish that rather than trying to find somewhere interesting to spend the night, I had been sensible and simply booked us into a B&B in Upington. As the reserve was almost 100km out of our way, I am sure that Robert and Laura were wondering where on earth I was taking them. (Robert’s insert – the thought did cross my mind!)

The Witsand (White Sand) Reserve is famous for its 60m high flowing white sand dunes, anomalies in the Kalahari red sand. Also known as the Brulsand or Roaring Sands, the dunes, under the right conditions, utter an eerie rumble when disturbed. The park’s website had promised a scenic park, teeming with wildlife, ten luxury, self-catering cabins with a sparkling swimming pool, and (my surprise for Laura) dune boarding. Seeing the condition of the road, I was beginning to have serious doubts.

Upon arriving, we could not have been more surprised or delighted. The park was everything promised and much more. Our thatch-roofed cabin, secluded in the woods, was beautiful. We were greeted by a steenbok and vervet monkeys. After a walk around the reserve, and a late dinner, we retired early, still on game drive hours. The next morning, we rented a surf board at the reserve office and drove 5km within the park to the dunes. The view from the top of the dunes, where we would stop to catch our breath after each climb, was lovely, and we had great fun surfing (some of us chose to toboggan/sit!) down the steep slopes. Going up was not so much fun. Climbing up soft sand is ever so much more difficult than scaling packed snow, we quickly discovered. Where was the chairlift? Laura was the expert surfer, although Robert did quite well. We had the dunes to ourselves, and I am sure that our shrieks accounted for the fact that we saw much more wildlife (springbok, leopard tortoises, steenbok, hornbills) on our trip in to the dunes than we did on our way out. After quick showers to rid ourselves of much sand, we retraced our steps to the main highway, once again tackling the reserve’s appalling road, and interrupting a sheep drive in the process. We left the reserve late morning, disappointed that the cabins were fully booked for the night. If not, we would have stayed a second night in that beautiful reserve. It amazed me that enough people knew about the place, located as it was in the middle of nowhere, that the cabins would actually be fully booked. Another beautiful place that greatly exceeded our expectations! </i>

Tswalu - it is lovely - about a four hour drive from Upington. Stay as long as you can afford!

The self-catering cabins at Augrabies are typical of SAN Parks accommodation - clean, comfortable and affordable. Be certain to climb to the top of Moon rock - it is an easy climb and the views of the lush Orange River valley and the surrounding Kalahari desert (the contrast is amazing) are lovely.

In Upington, either La Boheme (our favourite) or Browns Manor.

In terms of what you are missing...one of our favourite South Africa National Parks, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park www.sanparks.org - there is a drop down list of parks near the top - same website for Augrabies. Highly recommended - beautiful scenery, solitude, amazing unfenced wilderness camps, and excellent game viewing! Robin
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Old Sep 18th, 2010, 01:11 PM
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My description of Augrabies, also from 2005. Robin

<i>After traveling 850km (from Cape Town via the N7), we stopped for the night at Augrabies Falls National Park, where the Orange River plunges 200m through a deep, narrow, echoing gorge. The falls were called Aukoerabis (Place of Great Noise) by the Khoi, who lived in the area for thousands of years before the arrival of the Europeans. As we drove 30km off the main highway to reach the park, I commented that we were truly in the middle of nowhere. Laura’s retort was that we had been in the middle of nowhere for the past six hours! After settling into one of the park’s lovely self-catering chalets, we walked out to view the falls. In the otherwise parched desert, the lush river valley seemed very out of place. Although Augrabies may lack the grandeur of Niagara Falls, its eerie desert setting under a spectacular sunset, made it a memorable place. Once the air temperature had dropped enough that we could contemplate lighting the braai, we enjoyed dinner on our patio, admiring the impressive view of the desert beyond and the distant sound of the falls in the otherwise silent desert. As darkness fell, we were amused to find insectivorous bats flying around us. Later, we pulled out our star charts, and gazed with admiration at the twinkling sky.

The following morning we rose early and headed off to Moon Rock, a massive granite dome rising out of the otherwise flat plain. We drove along a narrow dirt road within the park, at one point traveling through eight-inch deep water, much to my consternation and Laura’s delight. We stopped to admire eight giraffe that were feeding by the side of the road. We hiked to the top of Moon Rock, which afforded impressive views of the rich, green fringe of vineyards and orchards on either side of the river and the harsh semi-desert beyond. Other than a few dassies and lizards on the rock and the giraffe, there were no other signs of life for as far as we could see. We sat for a while, admiring the view, and wondering at the vastness and flatness of the place. We left the park reluctantly, and continued eastward on our journey.</i>
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Old Sep 18th, 2010, 11:53 PM
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thanks Robin, great help!! Can I ask you some more questions?

1. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park : is this much more different than Tswalu Private Reserve? And if so, from Upington entering, where to stay a bit luxury? Any suggestion if you want to stay somewhere 3 nights there and see from there in daytrips a part of Kgalagadi? Is this a right way to have a good impression?
2.In which villages, or towns did you stay also in the northern cape?
3. How many nights is your advice for Augrabies and Witsand?
Thanks a lot!
Albert
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Old Sep 19th, 2010, 02:26 PM
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Hi Albert! I'll do my best to answer your questions.

The big difference between Kgalagadi and Tswalu is that at the former you are driving yourself around the park in your own vehicle (no guide!) and staying in self-catering accommodation, while at Tswalu you are staying in the height of luxury and everything is done for you (and you are driven around the reserve by a guide in one of Tswalu's vehicles). Two very different experiences. Have a look at the two websites and the difference will become immediately apparent. We prefer to self-drive and cook our own meals in the wilderness camps in Kgalagadi, but many people would prefer the Tswalu experience. It just depends on what you are looking for and how much you can afford to pay - Tswalu is very expensive.

In terms of luxury in Kgalagadi, there is nothing in the way of accommodation that compares to what you find at Tswalu. Have a look at the sanparks.org website - there are pictures of the accommodation. We love the wilderness camps in Kgalagadi, which have twin-bedded tents, but they do not come close to the luxury of Tswalu.

The problem with day trips into Kgalagadi is that the park is quite large, and you would be restricted to the southern section of the park because you would have to be out by sunset - if it were me, I would either stay in the park or not visit.

If you are visiting Tswalu, there is no need to visit Kgalagadi - the game viewing and scenery will be very similar. I was simply trying to lengthen the safari part of your itinerary, which is always the highlight of a trip to SA for us. If it were me and Kgalagadi didn't appeal, I would add those extra three days to Tswalu.

In the Northern Cape, we have stayed in Upington and Springbok, and then in the parks and reserves.

I think two nights would be plenty for both Augrabies and Witsand.

My only other suggestion for the Northern Cape would be to head towards Springbok to see the flowers (see www.naries.co.za) but, if you are planning to visit in November, you will be too late. The flowers are more August - October, depending on the rains. Robin
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Old Sep 20th, 2010, 04:29 AM
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thanks Robin, great help, really!
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Old Sep 20th, 2010, 10:59 AM
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aruso, may I just jump in to ask Robin a question, which might be of interest to you too if you are considering Kgalagadi...
Hi Robin, could I please ask you for a link to the trip report you did including Kgalagadi - didn't you do it on Smugmug? I think I could find it if I went through old posts but seeing as the subject came up here I thought I'd try and save myself a bit of time!
PS hope you're enjoying planning the next trip!
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Old Sep 20th, 2010, 12:07 PM
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Hi Tockoloshe! So good to hear from you! We are off to Africa (CT) for a year at the end of June. We have our next trip to Kgalagadi already booked (August 2011) and are working with Safari Drive at the moment on a trip to Namibia, Botswana and Zambia for October 2011. Zambia will be new to us - we will be visiting Lower Zambezi NP and South Luangwa NP. We also hope to return to Kenya and Tanzania in August 2012 - just before we head home.

What are you planning at the moment?

Here is the link to the last Kgalagadi trip from 2008.
Enjoy! Robin
http://bert-and-bin.smugmug.com/Trav...61053054_KcDbR
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Old Sep 20th, 2010, 03:20 PM
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(sorry again aruso for this hijacking)
Hi Robin - good to hear you're making exciting plans - sounds like a great year!
Also planning a return trip to Kgalagadi but not sure when yet - wanted to re-read your camp recommendations. Always fancied Zambia too so look forward to hearing more.
You (and of course anyone who's planning an Africa self-drive trip) might find this blog interesting: http://www.serengetitrip.com/ - I saw that you helped out one of the bloggers (Villiers Steyn) with some information a while ago - we met him at Mashatu Reserve (Botswana Tuli) when he was the leopard researcher there, and shared some fantastic leopard sightings. Anyway, thought it might interest Africa fans (and sorry it's on aruso's thread but dedicated readers will find it!)
Now to read your trip report ... again!
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Old Sep 21st, 2010, 09:59 AM
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Thanks for the link to Villiers' blog - I had not seen it. I have glanced at it, and will enjoy going through it more thoroughly - and, of course, following along once they are on their way.

At some point, I will post our Zambia itinerary - I don't want to hijack this thread. Enjoy the trip report and feel free to fire off questions. Robin
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