Six nights at Serian in the Mara … and a richness of wildlife viewing.
Feb 17th, 2010, 10:41 PM
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Six nights at Serian in the Mara … and a richness of wildlife viewing.
Details: With just a very short time available to be away from work and family I took advantage of a Qatar Airways promotion which gave an ‘almost’ half price airfare to Nairobi and a really good deal from Alex Walker’s Serian camp in the Masai Mara North Conservancy and booked a six night safari. With a couple of nights in Nairobi, that was the sum of my trip. Out of season maybe, but as my report attests, there was still plenty to see and many adventures to be had.
Last two weeks in January, 2010. Highly recommended, both for time of year for low tourist numbers and the sensational wildlife viewing I had.
Serian Camp: Also highly recommended both for the quality of the camp and the guides and staff, but even more so for the sheer flexability offered. Top notch in all departments.
Basic itinerary: 2 nights Macushla House, flight with Safarilink to the Mara, 1 night Serian camp, 2 nights at their mobile camp in the reserve and then 3 nights back at Serian camp. Flight back to Nairobi in the late afternoon, overnight Macushla and early afternoon flight out of Nairobi.
Because we can’t post photos here on Fodors, I have posted my report in full with accompanying photos at Safaritalk.
http://safaritalk.net/index.php?showtopic=4828&hl=
For those who don’t want to read it over there, I have included some of it here. Parts of it I’ve had to delete or change because it relied on the photographs as I thought it told the story better.
Last two weeks in January, 2010. Highly recommended, both for time of year for low tourist numbers and the sensational wildlife viewing I had.
Serian Camp: Also highly recommended both for the quality of the camp and the guides and staff, but even more so for the sheer flexability offered. Top notch in all departments.
Basic itinerary: 2 nights Macushla House, flight with Safarilink to the Mara, 1 night Serian camp, 2 nights at their mobile camp in the reserve and then 3 nights back at Serian camp. Flight back to Nairobi in the late afternoon, overnight Macushla and early afternoon flight out of Nairobi.
Because we can’t post photos here on Fodors, I have posted my report in full with accompanying photos at Safaritalk.
http://safaritalk.net/index.php?showtopic=4828&hl=
For those who don’t want to read it over there, I have included some of it here. Parts of it I’ve had to delete or change because it relied on the photographs as I thought it told the story better.
Feb 17th, 2010, 10:43 PM
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If you should spend your life looking in the rear view mirror, it could indeed feel as if the best of times were fading into the distance. With all the negative stories coming out of Kenya, and the somewhat superior attitude of some tourists who choose to look down on the Kenyan safari experience, I was planning to title this report “Paradise Lost”, however, the reality was so far from that impression that I had to find a different description.
What can I say, everytime I consider visiting a different country I find my self transported to the wide open spaces and rolling hills of the Mara, or the expansive plains fading into rocky escarpments and mountains of the Laikipia district ... even the red earth and distant vistas of Tsavo seem more attractive than dense bushland and totally flat country. Braving the “mini van” mecca which appears to be Kenya, I courageously boarded the Qatar Airways flight to Doha, then on to Nairobi. QR being my preferred carrier, their newly introduced direct flights out of Melbourne really worked well.
The flight into Nairobi arrived 10 minutes early and despite its’ bad reputation I was through immigration, had collected my luggage and was out into the warm breeze of the car park in around half an hour. The airport may not be a glossy shopping mall, but as a relic of a different era of flying, it has an interesting place in aviation history!
I had planned to practise my Swahili at every opportunity and thus prepared, came across my first problem. Jeremy, my excellent driver, had a lisp. All his ‘r’ sounds became ‘l’s; I was a goner and we proceeded in English. I always enjoy talking to my taxi drivers as you get a good feel for how the ordinary people of a country are feeling about their politics, economy and future. So with glass half full we exited the airport carpark and I was greeted by some 5 or 6 giraffes browsing in the Nairobi National Park close to the airport fence. I’ve never seen wild animals this close to the airport and so it was a nice introduction. Jeremy saw that the giraffe were surrounded by goats and said “see, domestic animals can co-exist with wild ones” … it’s all in the way you look at it, I guess.
Everyone visiting Nairobi knows of the appalling Mombasa Road traffic, well not on this day. Although a working day, we only had a minor hold up near the stadium and that was it. Hmmm, someone was clearing a path for me.
I had decided to stay at Macushla House in Karen, just around the corner from the Giraffe Centre, due to its’ location and price. At $125 B&B, the Nairobi stone bungalow proved to be excellent value given that it also had a large garden with lots of birds.
What can I say, everytime I consider visiting a different country I find my self transported to the wide open spaces and rolling hills of the Mara, or the expansive plains fading into rocky escarpments and mountains of the Laikipia district ... even the red earth and distant vistas of Tsavo seem more attractive than dense bushland and totally flat country. Braving the “mini van” mecca which appears to be Kenya, I courageously boarded the Qatar Airways flight to Doha, then on to Nairobi. QR being my preferred carrier, their newly introduced direct flights out of Melbourne really worked well.
The flight into Nairobi arrived 10 minutes early and despite its’ bad reputation I was through immigration, had collected my luggage and was out into the warm breeze of the car park in around half an hour. The airport may not be a glossy shopping mall, but as a relic of a different era of flying, it has an interesting place in aviation history!
I had planned to practise my Swahili at every opportunity and thus prepared, came across my first problem. Jeremy, my excellent driver, had a lisp. All his ‘r’ sounds became ‘l’s; I was a goner and we proceeded in English. I always enjoy talking to my taxi drivers as you get a good feel for how the ordinary people of a country are feeling about their politics, economy and future. So with glass half full we exited the airport carpark and I was greeted by some 5 or 6 giraffes browsing in the Nairobi National Park close to the airport fence. I’ve never seen wild animals this close to the airport and so it was a nice introduction. Jeremy saw that the giraffe were surrounded by goats and said “see, domestic animals can co-exist with wild ones” … it’s all in the way you look at it, I guess.
Everyone visiting Nairobi knows of the appalling Mombasa Road traffic, well not on this day. Although a working day, we only had a minor hold up near the stadium and that was it. Hmmm, someone was clearing a path for me.
I had decided to stay at Macushla House in Karen, just around the corner from the Giraffe Centre, due to its’ location and price. At $125 B&B, the Nairobi stone bungalow proved to be excellent value given that it also had a large garden with lots of birds.
Feb 17th, 2010, 10:46 PM
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There appears to be a gulf between the white Kenyan and black Kenyan’s view of ‘paradise lost’ which goes beyond the obvious. The mildly prosperous black Kenyan talks of the future with optimism and hope. As a tourist I have found them open to sharing some of that optimism. The white Kenyans appear to see so much more of what they have lost. The days of security, wealth and the glorious wildlife and wilderness which was almost exclusively their domain have, in the main, disappeared and in my experience the second and third generation white Kenyans who remain appear to view the tourist with some disdain. The mark of their superiority being their memories of that paradise, and the fact that they indeed lived in the promised land and somehow it slipped through their fingers, perhaps never realising that the seeds for this consequence were sown in the dust of an age and attitude long passed. That aside, those working in the tourism industry are forward thinking and working hard to preserve what is left of Kenya’s wildlife heritage.
The word on the street is that the Somali pirates are buying up big swathes of Nairobi and that future security problems will centre around these immigrants. Could be interesting times ahead.
My first morning started inauspiciously as I missed a spectacular Hartlaub’s Turaco in flight, well quite frankly, I missed it sitting on the branch of a tree as well! But I did manage a Rufous sparrow. I had some fun wandering around the garden trying to photograph the ubiquitous vervet monkeys who thundered across the roof but would only peer over the roof tiles at me, so that I could see quizzical eyes and raised eye brows only.
For those more interested in the prosaic details, breakfast is ordered the night before with tea or coffee brought to your room earlier. Macushla House was very quiet so I usually had the dining room to myself.
I had arranged to spend the day with Kennedy Muthoka from Waymark Safaris and he picked me up mid morning to start our days tourist activities.
The word on the street is that the Somali pirates are buying up big swathes of Nairobi and that future security problems will centre around these immigrants. Could be interesting times ahead.
My first morning started inauspiciously as I missed a spectacular Hartlaub’s Turaco in flight, well quite frankly, I missed it sitting on the branch of a tree as well! But I did manage a Rufous sparrow. I had some fun wandering around the garden trying to photograph the ubiquitous vervet monkeys who thundered across the roof but would only peer over the roof tiles at me, so that I could see quizzical eyes and raised eye brows only.
For those more interested in the prosaic details, breakfast is ordered the night before with tea or coffee brought to your room earlier. Macushla House was very quiet so I usually had the dining room to myself.
I had arranged to spend the day with Kennedy Muthoka from Waymark Safaris and he picked me up mid morning to start our days tourist activities.
Feb 17th, 2010, 10:52 PM
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One of the more inspirational places to go as a tourist is Kazuri Beads, somewhere I have wanted to visit since reading Thomas Rees ‘Daktari’ about the evolution of the Flying Doctor Service in Kenya. Wonderful book in which he talks about his co-founder, Mike Wood’s wife Susan (later Lady) Woods and the work she did to set up a cottage industry for single mothers. Now the business employs over 300 women, and to get a job they still need to be single mothers thus giving them an income, dignity and a feeling of pride in their work. The beads are simply beautiful and I bought many!
Accompanied by Kennedy, who came highly recommended here at Fodors, we lunched together amid gales of laughter and frivolity, much to the disgust of some of the more uptight patrons, before heading into NNP for an hour or so. I had decided to visit there for the first time in over 30 years mainly due to Atravelynn’s excellent report from last year. The park looked lush and green and although I didn’t take a lot of photos, I enjoyed the sightings and the beautiful vistas of the place. We had good sightings … 7 or 8 ostriches, male and female involved in intricate courtship rituals, both Masai and Rothschild giraffe (or a combination thereof), quite large herds of Burchells zebra with foals, eland, many hartebeest, some magnificent buffaloes, impalas and a white rhino and calf. Finally we saw two bushbuck, not together, which was the icing on the cake.
Kennedy’s favourite were the bushbuck, and I would say his least favourite were the buffalo. We enjoyed the Nairobi NP, as we munched on digestive biscuits and cokes, all provided by Kennedy. No doubt that he is excellent company and a couple more days spent together would have been great fun.
Naturally I visited Sheldricks, although only one of my four orphans is still in Nairobi, the others all having progressed to Tsavo East. I enjoyed chatting to the various keepers and we talked about the poaching, ivory trade and about how the impact of losing an orphan made them feel. Nothing quite like having a tiny elephant wrap its’ trunk around your arm and gently place your hand in its’ mouth so that the calf can suck your fingers. This is nothing like lion cub petting and these orphans do end up living a free and naturally wild life.
Kennedy and I parted company at the end of the day, and I had the distinct feeling that I had made another friend and so a big thank you to everyone here who recommended him with such enthusiasm.
Accompanied by Kennedy, who came highly recommended here at Fodors, we lunched together amid gales of laughter and frivolity, much to the disgust of some of the more uptight patrons, before heading into NNP for an hour or so. I had decided to visit there for the first time in over 30 years mainly due to Atravelynn’s excellent report from last year. The park looked lush and green and although I didn’t take a lot of photos, I enjoyed the sightings and the beautiful vistas of the place. We had good sightings … 7 or 8 ostriches, male and female involved in intricate courtship rituals, both Masai and Rothschild giraffe (or a combination thereof), quite large herds of Burchells zebra with foals, eland, many hartebeest, some magnificent buffaloes, impalas and a white rhino and calf. Finally we saw two bushbuck, not together, which was the icing on the cake.
Kennedy’s favourite were the bushbuck, and I would say his least favourite were the buffalo. We enjoyed the Nairobi NP, as we munched on digestive biscuits and cokes, all provided by Kennedy. No doubt that he is excellent company and a couple more days spent together would have been great fun.
Naturally I visited Sheldricks, although only one of my four orphans is still in Nairobi, the others all having progressed to Tsavo East. I enjoyed chatting to the various keepers and we talked about the poaching, ivory trade and about how the impact of losing an orphan made them feel. Nothing quite like having a tiny elephant wrap its’ trunk around your arm and gently place your hand in its’ mouth so that the calf can suck your fingers. This is nothing like lion cub petting and these orphans do end up living a free and naturally wild life.
Kennedy and I parted company at the end of the day, and I had the distinct feeling that I had made another friend and so a big thank you to everyone here who recommended him with such enthusiasm.
Feb 17th, 2010, 10:54 PM
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Wednesday morning … time to get over to Wilson’s Airport and find me a wilderness. Feeling totally out of place as I stood next to a group of very smartly dressed tourists, I clutched my green boarding card (or was it white!?) as they proudly waved their purple, special charter cards. Elegantly waving a hand towards their unscratched Louis Vuitton luggage, they chatted about their up coming holiday. In the meantime I grumpily reviewed the fact that I’d had to pay $24 for excess luggage for my battered, scruffy bag and many cameras.
The flight was fortunately uneventful which is how all flights should be, and I was met at the Musiara airstrip by my driver Kimansi and my guide Daniel. The 45 minute drive to camp took approximately 90 minutes as I was hungry to see and smell the African wilderness again. This short intermission was filled with a large breeding herd of elephants, a lone bull elephant with no tail, a new born giraffe calf, a new born Thomson’s gazelle getting to its’ feet for the first time, many birds … most of which I didn’t manage to photograph.
Between the Masai Mara Reserve and the Mara North Conservancy there is a narrow piece of land which I called the cattle belt. It is on a rocky ridge, fairly dry with well grazed land on which the Maasai tend their herds. Although it doesn’t feel beautifully wild at this point, it is only a short distance before the wilderness closes in and I tried to remember that the future of this wonderful land depends on a working agreement between the Maasai and the conservationists. More on those lines later.
I was greeted at Serian camp by the manager, Mark Gilks, owner, Alex Walker plus a handful of regulars and guests whose names immediately went through one ear and out the other. Especially the Irish/Australian researcher whose name I couldn’t possibly spell. At first it was quite daunting getting to know everyone and I managed to totally confuse everyone, myself included, by introducing myself when they had already welcomed me by name! Memo to self, concentrate more.
Serian proved to be a wonderful mix of quiet solitude; sounds of the bush mingling with the rushing river; the constant noise from the hippos and then the evening chat and laughter. It was certainly refreshingly relaxed and civilised in the same breath and the by word was flexibility in everything which was offered.
After lunch (which like all the meals was varied, delicious but not pretentious … vegetables grown in their own vegetable garden gave added freshness) and a quick tour of the camp I was ready to hit the road.
The flight was fortunately uneventful which is how all flights should be, and I was met at the Musiara airstrip by my driver Kimansi and my guide Daniel. The 45 minute drive to camp took approximately 90 minutes as I was hungry to see and smell the African wilderness again. This short intermission was filled with a large breeding herd of elephants, a lone bull elephant with no tail, a new born giraffe calf, a new born Thomson’s gazelle getting to its’ feet for the first time, many birds … most of which I didn’t manage to photograph.
Between the Masai Mara Reserve and the Mara North Conservancy there is a narrow piece of land which I called the cattle belt. It is on a rocky ridge, fairly dry with well grazed land on which the Maasai tend their herds. Although it doesn’t feel beautifully wild at this point, it is only a short distance before the wilderness closes in and I tried to remember that the future of this wonderful land depends on a working agreement between the Maasai and the conservationists. More on those lines later.
I was greeted at Serian camp by the manager, Mark Gilks, owner, Alex Walker plus a handful of regulars and guests whose names immediately went through one ear and out the other. Especially the Irish/Australian researcher whose name I couldn’t possibly spell. At first it was quite daunting getting to know everyone and I managed to totally confuse everyone, myself included, by introducing myself when they had already welcomed me by name! Memo to self, concentrate more.
Serian proved to be a wonderful mix of quiet solitude; sounds of the bush mingling with the rushing river; the constant noise from the hippos and then the evening chat and laughter. It was certainly refreshingly relaxed and civilised in the same breath and the by word was flexibility in everything which was offered.
After lunch (which like all the meals was varied, delicious but not pretentious … vegetables grown in their own vegetable garden gave added freshness) and a quick tour of the camp I was ready to hit the road.
Feb 17th, 2010, 10:55 PM
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The Mara North Conservancy is developing into a really superior conservation area as agreements with the local Maasai landholders come into effect and slowly the cattle leave the area. Maybe not well known is the fact that the bed/acre density is about a tenth of that in the Mara Reserve, less than Sabi Sands and that the wildlife density is greater than SS area. In the future plan is a banning of mini-vans and self drivers and from what I gathered, this is more about preserving the conservancy from being over run with an excess of tourists as off road driving is still allowed.
The area was certainly looking in great condition with short, green, lush grass, white flowers, new born babies and the Mara river in good flow. We left camp and went down to the river to watch some giraffe crossing, unfortunately the animals were back lit but it wasn’t possible to get to the other side of the giraffe before the last one crossed.
As we slowly moved across the plains we came across a small herd of elephants. The adults had an interesting technique to pull out the small clumps of grass and shrubs they were eating. First the trunk curled around the plant and then the elephant kicked its' trunk with a front foot. Quite efficient. The calf was having all sorts of trouble learning this.
A little later we came across a giraffe nursery before coming across 3 lions preparing to hunt. As it was getting very dark we had to leave them and we bumped back to camp in the dark with me looking vaguely and unsuccessfully for some elusive nocturnal animal.
I was well pleased with my first drive. Tomorrow we were leaving before dawn to head into the Mara Reserve for the day before heading into the mobile camp at Nkorombo on the Mara River in the reserve.
The area was certainly looking in great condition with short, green, lush grass, white flowers, new born babies and the Mara river in good flow. We left camp and went down to the river to watch some giraffe crossing, unfortunately the animals were back lit but it wasn’t possible to get to the other side of the giraffe before the last one crossed.
As we slowly moved across the plains we came across a small herd of elephants. The adults had an interesting technique to pull out the small clumps of grass and shrubs they were eating. First the trunk curled around the plant and then the elephant kicked its' trunk with a front foot. Quite efficient. The calf was having all sorts of trouble learning this.
A little later we came across a giraffe nursery before coming across 3 lions preparing to hunt. As it was getting very dark we had to leave them and we bumped back to camp in the dark with me looking vaguely and unsuccessfully for some elusive nocturnal animal.
I was well pleased with my first drive. Tomorrow we were leaving before dawn to head into the Mara Reserve for the day before heading into the mobile camp at Nkorombo on the Mara River in the reserve.
Feb 18th, 2010, 06:28 AM
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I am so enjoying reading your TR - it takes me right back to Serian. Your photos are lovely - especially the wildebeest in the fading light. It's good to see that the Mara River has so much water in it - what a change from when we were there in August. You mention the constant sounds of the hippos at Serian - were you at Ngare? Not good news for my DH and me to learn that self-drivers may be banned from the MNC - Safari Drive will have to store their Land Rover elsewhere. I am looking forward to reading more - I will be especially interested to learn how you enjoyed the mobile camp. Robin
Feb 18th, 2010, 09:55 AM
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Your report is fantastic , i enjoyed it a lot . Many nice pictures too,like the leopard sniffing the trunk,the tight shot of the bat ear foxes with great light,the mongoose.....etc.
It has a bad thing however , It is so nice and fun to read that i got sick ,very sick and i need to go back to Africa as soon as possible!
Thanks a lot for sharing.
Paco.
It has a bad thing however , It is so nice and fun to read that i got sick ,very sick and i need to go back to Africa as soon as possible!
Thanks a lot for sharing.
Paco.
Feb 18th, 2010, 10:54 AM
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An extremely entertaining report with some great-great shots. I am sure it took amazing efforts to create such a detailed report, quite some dedication, I must say.
Congrats and Thanks for sharing !!
Congrats and Thanks for sharing !!
Feb 18th, 2010, 06:06 PM
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Thanks Twaffle. Your conversational style and smooth writing is a lovely read, with lots of relevant observations. A very different perspective from what we usually get. I'm heading right over to Safari Talk for the pictures.
Feb 18th, 2010, 09:10 PM
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CR - I stayed in main camp but went over to have a look at Ngare which is very beautiful, I must say. I'm about to finish writing that part of the report but haven't quite decided how to describe it! I'm sure that there will be some flack about the self drivers, but realistically they are few and far between, not many of us are so brave. The mobile camp was just the best experience, I loved the feeling of being in the bush surrounded by nature. It wasn't at all intrusive, couldn't see the other tent or the kitchen area or the mess tent. I liked the natural feel of it, no endless safety instructions bar the obvious "don't walk about at night", no indemnity forms, no schedules … it felt like it could have been my home where I could pretty much do as I pleased.
Thanks everyone for the positive comments. I am amused by yours Paco because I distinctly remember thinking exactly the same about your most recent report and photos saying to my husband that "I have to go back NOW" and as hard as I tried I couldn't duplicate your hippo which I liked so much.
Kennedy is charming, lovely man but with a healthy and very funny fear of buffaloes!
Thanks everyone for the positive comments. I am amused by yours Paco because I distinctly remember thinking exactly the same about your most recent report and photos saying to my husband that "I have to go back NOW" and as hard as I tried I couldn't duplicate your hippo which I liked so much.
Kennedy is charming, lovely man but with a healthy and very funny fear of buffaloes!
Feb 20th, 2010, 05:07 PM
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Thanks everyone. Hari, I'm getting 4 prints ready for the Australian Professional Print Awards for later this year, not sure whether to include the sunrise or not so will put in on BPN to gauge response. Finger nail biting stuff. (for me) Once I've prepared the submission then I'll crank up my printer (24in ink jet) and see what the canvas looks like. I'll make it nice and big and then every morning will be a Mara morning!
