koeksie

We are 5 selfdrive vehicles and would like to know about the best campsites in South Luangwa. We plan to sleep 5 nights. Which operators can you recommend for walking safaris and night drives,

We also would like to hear about campsites at Chipita. Mama Rulas?

Thanks
Koeksie.

canadian_robin

Hi Koeksie!
We (two self-drivers/one vehicle) are booked to stay at Track and Trail Campsite just outside SLNP for four nights in October. We debated long and hard about it or Wildlife Camp. I asked for input on this forum and on Thorn Tree (Lonely Planet) regarding one camp versus the other, but didn't receive any response. Perhaps you will be luckier. There is also the better known Flatdogs, but it is not open to self-drivers during the peak season, so that was not an option for us. In the end, we chose Track and Trail over Wildlife Camp because it is closer to the main gate (all of the campsites are outside the park - no camping is allowed in the park), the T&T campsites are right on the riverbank, and T&T has fewer campsites (and less accommodation overall) - we are hoping for a quieter bush experience. I had read a couple of reviews which indicated that Wildlife Camp (and specifically the bar) can be a bit crowded and noisy during the peak season.

As far as I know, both Wildlife Camp and Track and Trail (and Flatdogs) offer walks and night drives - have a look at their websites.

Depending on what month you are visiting, you should definitely consider Flatdogs - I have read nothing but glowing reviews about it.

I have not stayed at Mama Rula's, but it receives a good review in the Bradt Guide to Zambia. If you can get your hands on a copy of that book, it is excellent. The book describes the campsite as being on a large lawn under a canopy of marvellous red mahogany trees, and also indicates that the ablutions are clean and well kept. There is a pool, dining room and bar. The author, Chris McIntyre, adds that it is probably the best place to stay in Chipata.
Robin

luangwablondes

For selfdrive, the popular choices have been Wildlife Camp, Flatdogs and Croc Camp. Each has attributes people like. As Robin mentioned, Flatdogs is closed July 1- Oct 31. Each has wildlife periodically visiting the campsites. I have stayed at all three, and you will probably like either one.

I haven't been on walking safaris or gamedrives with either one of these camps. I used to manage a walking safari camp and a couple of the upmarket camps in the park reciprocated.

However, I do have a personal preference when it comes to a unique night game drive - free.

I do have a question. What is your route in Zambia? I may have some suggestions, and that doesn't include going through Chipata for instance.

canadian_robin

Hi luangwablondes! I thought you might respond to this post. So, are you suggesting the route via Petauke instead of Chipata? We wondered, since we will be travelling from Lusaka, if we should use it. We are reluctant because we are travelling with only one vehicle.

Have you been to Track and Trail? Croc Camp is no longer mentioned in the guide books - I wondered if it was still in business. Robin

laurenanne

Great to find other self-drivers in Zambia! I just got back from 2 weeks of a self-drive in Namibia and would like to go back to southern africa in september and do a self-drive. Since this post is related to camping, and I am just starting to look into the planning of a self-drive and have a lot of questions regarding it, would anyone be willing to email with me privately? my personal email is [email protected]. Thanks!!
Lauren

luangwablondes

Robin
Actually, I have less faith in the guidebooks. They tend to be inaccurate and appears they have favorites(sources, accommodations, services, etc). This is from a few experiences with authors and how they gather information. I have found with the guidebooks I normally think are the best, by the time it hits the shelves, they are outdated.

Croc Camp is open and should be an option for you. Telling someone which is best is difficult. Everyone looks at these campsites in different perspectives and the camps are all good. Its what is right for you. Timing comes into play also. What groups(self drive or overland truck) pitches up while you are there can change the character in minutes. Maybe you are in a camp when a pride of lions lazily walk through among the vehicles and tents while you are drinking sundowners overlooking the river, a few hippos or ellies in the campsite in the evening or early AM, or even giraffes making an appearance. It can really give you the wow factor. Maybe you are big on socializing at the bar. So that experience can effect your 'rating of a camp'. It just so happens that SLNP offers some good choices, with such problems as critiqing them the finer points.

My solution. I head for a campsite to overnite and do the gamedrives the next early AM. Midday when the wildlife head for shade, I'll leave the park for a few hours and visit the other camps, check out the campsites, go to the bar/restaurant- have lunch, and talk to a couple people. The campsites are all relatively close. Simple.

Taking the Petuake route or Msoro route(shorter and quicker, not as quite as scenic or interesting, more villages) should be a decision based on your confidence in the vehicle. If you hired a good vehicle, go for it. The Chipata route is BORING.

koeksie

Hi Luangwablonds thanks for all the info. We aim to drive from Lusaka to Chipata, sleepover and then the following day to South Luangwa. By travel via Petuake is it posible to reach SLNP the same day ? We travel with 5 vehicles.Thanke to you all for the info about the campsite -it help a lot

Koeksie

luangwablondes

Then you are trying to rush through. With 5 vehicles, it will not help unless you have good comms. In convoy, most likely someone will slow things down. Photo opps, nature calls, someone wants to go slower then the rest, etc. I would not try to do it in one day unless it was the latter part of the dry season and you started very early in the AM. Before Sunrise. And only then with 1 other vehicle or a group that convoys well together and radio contact.

koeksie

Hi Luangwablonds thanks for all the info. We aim to drive from Lusaka to Chipata, sleepover and then the following day to South Luangwa. By travel via Petuake is it posible to reach SLNP the same day ? We travel with 5 vehicles.Thanke to you all for the info about the campsite -it help a lot

Koeksie

canadian_robin

In the initial stages of my research, when I know very little about a country, I find guidebooks incredibly helpful. I read about the country's highlights, what parks we should visit, what the major cities are, what the major routes are, where we can pick up supplies, how challenging it will be for self-driving, what the best months for game viewing are, what the weather is throughout the year, etc etc. I consult several books for comparison - Bradt are my favourite because of the detail, which is vital when self-driving. I often spend as long as a year researching our trips. Once I have done much reading and have an idea of where we might wish to go, I search the internet, including forums such as this one. I realize the guidebooks are necessarily out of date by the time they hit the shelves, but most of the info I am looking for is there and doesn't change much between editions. I pay little heed to info such as the price of accommodation, except perhaps to get an idea of their price range. I have found the books to be very accurate and incredibly helpful, and...perhaps I am old fashioned.....but I still like the feel of a good book in my hands.

As for favourite camps, I agree that what may well be the "best" camp for my DH and me, may be the last choice for others - I certainly realize that. That is why I suggested that koeksie consult the websites for each camp, and is exactly why I spend so much time researching our trips. If we don't enjoy a place, we have no one to blame but me.

The route from Chipata may well seem "boring" to you, but for solo overseas self-drivers such as ourselves, who have neither your experience, local knowledge nor confidence, boring may well be the best route. We can relax and enjoy ourselves and not worry about getting lost or suffering a breakdown (of the vehicle, not our mental state !). I have yet to find a route in either Southern or Eastern Africa that I would have considered describing as boring, simply because everything is always so new to us and we are thrilled to be there. Boring just isn't in my African vocabulary.
Robin

luangwablondes

Robin
I am sure you will change that tune after you drive via Chipata. If you tried the Msoro option, you would wonder why you resisted my suggestion (Send me an email and I will send back a link to pictures of that route).

Koeksie
If you must go via Chipata, check out Mayana Farm (working farm). Campsite and farm house accommodations. It requires reservations. The owner also operates the fuel station and shop in Mfuwe. If she is there, she can give you some good insight to SLNP. They don't take overland trucks, so it will be a pleasant stop.

Nyati

Koeksie,

I have camped for 3 months at Croc Valley camp on the banks of the Luangwa river on lush green lawn with lots of shade! It is right next to Track and Trail,but their campsite is not on the river.I have been around in the valley and the other campsites were all dusty and hot. Croc has a bar,pool and restaurant with great food and animals like elephant and hippo moving through regulary.They offer walks and drives as well.They operate the garage in Mfuwe,which can come in handy at times.The owners are very helpfull and friendly. I will definately go back there again!

canadian_robin

So, it is Track and Trail that you claim is not on the river? Very odd! The T&T website show photos of the campsites and bar on the riverbank. Also, I have read a trip report of someone who stayed at T&T. They commented on the fact that their campsite was right on the riverbank. The latter would have no reason to present a false overview of the T&T campsite. CR

PolishDan

Hallo Koeksie. have you done your tour into Zambia? T & T moved their camping and is now behind the chalets. but i see that they did not change the internet. the they are next to croccamp and both close to the village and you hear the noise from the village and the other camp. bathrooms were ok but not good. we selected wildlife camp - it is not on the same road as other camps. beautiful camp and the safariguides are excellent. we went with Joseph three time. croccamp also had safari vehicles but it is a truck with alot of people - almost 20. widlifeccamp had very good managers and they can speak almost any language. go to wildlifecamp because of the view and it is away from the other places and very quiet and more in the bush than the others