I am absolutely thrilled that we have finally booked our trip and paid our deposit on our safari in September. Hooray!!!
Although we had to change our itinerary slightly, it worked out great. Here it is:
We fly Sydney - Kilimanjaro via Bangkok and Nairobi on Qantas
and Kenya Airways. In Kili we pick up our guide and vehicle which we keep for the remainder of our time in Tanzania.
1 nt Arusha Coffee Lodge
3 nts Oliver's Camp
2 nts Dunia
4 nts Sayari
Fly to Nairobi
1 nt House of Waine
Fly to Masai Mara
3 nts Naibor (yes, we know) (instead of Rekero)
2 nts Kicheche Mara (instead of Kicheche Bush)
Fly to Kigali
1 nt Top Tower Hotel Kigali
3 nts Virunga Lodge/ 2 gorilla treks
Fly home via Nairobi - with a stop for 3 nts in Bangkok.
We took your advice about not missing the Masai Mara ( I had to lobby for this one), so I am happy, and husband happy because the location has different types of banks (steep) than at Sayari. Yes, as many of you warned me, we left it pretty late to get our first choice (well, MY first choice) itinerary. So what was changed is that we now do Rwanda last instead of first (husband happy) and the camps in the Masai Mara were not our first choice. The entire Tanzania trip was no problem. It was the gorilla permits, availability of camps in the Masai Mara, and flights which got tricky. Plus, with our original plan, we'd have flown directly from the airstrip near Sayari into Kigali instead of having to transit through Nairobi overnight. But that works well because now we definitely have time to go to the Animal Orphanage!
Since last week (when we were away and using Satan's laptop) it got really intense as the availabilities kept moving and it took a long time to get replies from Africa, especially about the Gorilla permits and because of a public holiday there. In the end I couldn't tear myself away from the computer because I was so anxiously awaiting messages of confirmation (I'm like that sometimes). I didn't even put my computer to sleep at night because I didn't want to wait for it to turn on in the morning. Yes, sounds a bit nuts! Afterwards I felt so relaxed and happy!
I think if I were to give anyone advice early in their process, it would be to do their research 9+ months before they want to go, and to book it 8 months ahead if they want smaller camps in the high season. This was our first time, so it was precarious to know who to listen to and what advice to take. It's very hard to tell someone they'd better hurry up because if they don't know you personally, they have not a lot of reason to take that advice to heart, and considering not understanding the difficulty. Although I was ready, my hubby needed to do this at a pace comfortable for him (sigh).
NEXT time (good grief...am I already thinking about the next time?) we will know better!
I couldn't have done this without the generous help of all of you on Fodor's, so a heartfelt thanks to everyone who jumped in and contributed to our ideas for this!
I'm sure I'll be back soon with plenty of questions. So see you soon!
See you in September - We got it booked!
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Tanzania Feb 2013 -- my first but not last safari!
- 2 Morocco - private tour operators
- 3 Most Romantic Places in Marrakech or Essaouira?
- 4 Questions re Gorillas in Rwanda and money in both Rwanda and Tanzania
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Morocco . . . Rough Around the Edges
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- 9 Exclusie use vehicles at Mala Mala and Londolozi
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- 11 phone service
- 12 how to join a Kenya safari once in country
- 13 Qatar - Doha my photos
- 14 Yellow Fevor innoculation revisited
- 15 The Grace Hotel (Johannesburg) is closing
- 16 Kenya + Ngorongoro or Serengeti?
- 17 Ashdod to Jaffa and Tel Aviv
- 18 Haifa - Acre & the Baha'i Gardens
- 19 Marrakesh and Fez w/ side trip
- 20 What about Intrepid Travel as a tour company?
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Amazing Safari Trip in Zimbabwe (Matopos-Hwange & Victoria Falls)
- 22 Experience with Journey Beyond Travel or Sahara Services in Morocco?
- 23 transfer from jnb and Durban airports
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Trip Report - Honeymoon Safari in Tanzania - End of July/August 2012
- 25 ZAMBIA / ZIMBABWE SAFETY.


OOPS: How could I forget: 2 nts Ngorongor Crater Lodge between Oliver's and Dunia.
tinydancer,
congratulations on finally booking! I know how you feel; it was such a relief to get our reservations confirmed. When will you be in Nairobi and Sheldrick's? We will be there September 8th.
Sharon
stamiya, sorry, but we won't be there until the 19th. I want to adopt a baby elephant so we can have that up close and personal experience. But I don't know if it's going to work out, because we only arrive in Nairobi from the Mara @ 4:30pm. However, the orphanage is in a triangular configuration between the airport and our accommodation. So, since we have to book this in advance, we'd have to be at the gate by 6:00 (from what I've read). Depending how long it takes us to clear immigration and get our bags, I'd think we could do it no problem because it's only +/- 10km between any 2 of the 3 locations. Gosh, Google Earth sure came in handy when planning this trip!
I'd love to run into some of the people from this forum!
Wow! Glad you showed the 2nts at Ngorongoro. When I first looked at the itinerary, all I saw was that very very very long drive from Oliver's to Dunia.
As to Immigration, arriving from Tanzania... I assume at Wilson, which arrives 2:45pm, is a breeze. It's a small (yes, very very small) airport and you'll clear quickly, collect bags; short 20/min drive to check-in at HOW, then visit Sheldrick and your chubby this day.
If after the Mara, the afternoon flight first departs 4pm and you won't arrive Wilson before 5-5:15pm. Though a short ride to Sheldrick, you may not have sufficient visit time.
tinydancer, if you do decide to foster one of the elephants (its only $50 for a year), let me know the name of it and I'll try to give it a pat or two when we visit Sheldrick's
I agree with you totally about meeting people on these forums. On our first (and only) trip to Zambia a few years back we met 4 people on the forum who were going at approximately the same time, and ended up very good friends with one couple. We were all at one camp (Chiawa on the Zambezi River) at the same time, and it was great!
Sharon
Hi tinydancer,
We will be in Mara about the same time in Sept. approx. -15/16/17 in Laikipia:
9/ l8-25 Mara, leave 26th - so hopefully we will see a Naibor vehicle and yell, AussieAussie (I think that is what I heard at the Olympics (on tv, did not make it that far north!)
You may see a Serian vechicle and yell, "Hey ya'll" and we'll know its you! (Now make sure you say "ya'll" as in one word - yawl , not YOU All, or Hey You, or Hey "Yous Guys.."
As you can tell, we have our own language in the south.
We can have a sundowner together and exchange camp stories. Naibor and Rekero were on my list, but when Serian offered stay 7, pay 5 we took it. Also the private vehicle and guide were awfully tempting. Supposed to go to Mobile for 2 nights (near Naibor) so if you hear me screaming because a lion is in my tent, come on over!
I'm excited for you; you really got into this trip and I think that is contagious. I had sort of forgotten about Sept. as it seems so far away and we started our plans LAST AUGUST!
Your enthusiasm brought my own back, and,
Sept is just around the corner, yay.
Australia and New Zealand are also on our list; so maybe I can get some tips from you one day...along with Twaffle, our other Aussie on board (that I personally know of)
Don't you love the way everyone helps out. I told Alex of Serian I would have never made this trip if it weren't for Sandi, Patty, Atravelynn, Lynda, Leely - oh, so many that have been many, many times and are so packed full of info...
Whoops, just noticed I did not include the guys...sorry - ya'll know who you are.
I just planned another trip with the help of another forum on Fodors, and they were just as great. My DH cannot believe the stuff I find out. Things a guide book (sorry Fodors) cannot know day by day, week by week, etc.
Of course I tell him, I just know it! LOL
We will be missing the chimps this trip; there are so many places we wanted to go in Africa, Tanzania included, but I think once you start making the trip "air wise", you get used to it and it obviously becomes addictive!
I am thrilled for you! What a great itinerary; you will have a ball.
Moneyburns (formerly Flowerpower) if you wanted to see my zillions of ?????????
sandi, stamiy, moneyburns, loved hearing from you! It's interesting, but one of the wonderful things about this forum which is so addicting, is that we all can share our mutual excitement in ways that we can't with our real live, physical friends and family (unless of course they've either gone on safari or dream of going) because they just can't understand. They look at it as another trip. I think so anyway.
sandi, our itinerary has us flying on the 19th, the only overnight in Nairobi, from Sereneti/Kogatende airstrip, dep 10am arriving Kili@ 1:15pm, dep KQ6727@ 3:30pm, arr Wilson 4:30pm, not the times you mention. Not sure why, but I know our t.a. was really juggling gorilla permits/accommodation/flights with finesse. He thought he'd have to do a private charter at one point, but got around that, so saving us that added expense. We transit 3 times through Nairobi but the first one we practically go straight through, the 19th (above) we overnight, and en route home we arrive @4:30pm, depart around 11:00pm, so I think it's not a good idea to plan to do it that evening (?) as we have to check in and board flight for Bangkok. I have emailed Sheldrick's, but no answer yet. I asked them what is involved and if we can do the 6:00 pm at the gate thing. But we haven't signed up yet, so maybe they won't get back to us. I kind of thought that I'd wait to foster in case any newbies are born before we go. If you have any idea's, would love to hear them.
moneyburns, we will be at Kicheche Mara 20-25, so could happen! Y'all! (I was born in GA)
Fodor's should capitalize on these forums and sell shirts, hats, bags, or something with their name 'tastefully' embroidered/printed on it so we could recognize each other automatically! Something cool like 'Fodor's Forum', with a premium design 'Fodor's Fanatic'?
These forum's are addicting. i don't even remember what my t.v. looks like anymore.
I'd be happy to help with ideas for Australia. Oh, it's 'Aussie, Aussie, Aussie, Oy, Oy, Oy!
I'm so excited. I'm sure I will love every thing and every place!
That's wonderful! Your next time comment is pretty funny too.
Actually, on the 25th, we transit in Nairobi to Kigali arriving from the Masai Mara @ 12:20pm and departing for Kigali at 18:45. So the Elephant Orphanage is possible on that day too. I guess I should just sign up to foster one and then just work our whatever we can work out, even if we don't get up close and personal at bedtimes.
atravelynn! Funny? My hubby would murder me if he got wind that I'm already thinking about next time! But yes, it's so funny! He wanted to do a really big trip "so we don't have to go back again." I don't think he realizes how much more wonderful this will be from our stopover safari in Kruger 12 years ago for 4 days staying in their big lodges and seeing only 1 elephant, 2 lions, one leopard, and plenty of the other wildlife.
At least he's already talked about going to Botswana in the green season.
Tinydancer- We finally booked our airfare and are ready for our trip in August, 2010. Our Tanzania itinerary is almost the same as yours with almost all the same camps except the Crater where we are staying at Lemala and we also have a night at Gibb's Farm. I was a little unsure about Dunia as it is new but I have read a few good reviews. Are you taking any of the walking trips at Oliver's or Sayari? We also have our guide and driver for the whole trip. Last summer we went to Uganda to see the gorillas. It was definitely an experience of a lifetime. I will never forget coming around the corner and seeing a huge silverback eating his lunch less than ten feet away from me. Your trip sounds amazing. Can't wait to read your trip report upon your return.
I love it - a southern gal in Australia! /aussie aussie oy oy oy! I am thrilled you know southern speak! Ya'll,-- love ya, ---let's party,--- come back ya hear.....Can I git you somthin -
Love ya more, ..of course we say that to everyone......if only that would be true worldwide!
am thrilled for you that you have such an intense and exciting itinerary -
Gotta meet; when will you be at Sheldricks?
I just know I will find you in the Mara. ...
Wish fodors had a pm thing;but not.....so we will keep in touch.
MB -(close to GA -a bit north)
Ihgreenacres- I thought I'd posted back to you earlier, but must not have hit the button. Yes, we have every intention of doing some walking safaris at one or more. We'll see how it all evolves.
moneyburns - you got my curiosity up about Serian, so I went had a few looks at different sites about it and it in fact looks gorgeous.
What would you, or anyone reading this, have to say about us looking into changing from Naibor 3 & Kicheche Mara 2, and instead doing 5 at Serian? Would it be worth the switch? They all look nice, but Serian looks more like what we were originally after.
Comments?
Hi Tinydancer!
If you do a search on Serian you can read Twaffle's January trip report, and Hari's of a year or so ago; Canadian_Robin was also there last year on her drive through Africa..they all seemed to love it.
I know Twaffle did and she also has a report with pictures on "Safaritalk" - I'd provide the link, but that is something that rarely works for me - maybe Atravelynn can do it as she seems rather adept at that...I am not!
I am not trying to change your mind; I am sure wherever you end up it will be fabulous. Serian was a draw for us because of the private guide and tracker - whenever you want to go - wherever you want to go..no schedules. We felt traveling so far (not as far as ya'll though) we wanted to take advantage of every moment.
We've had great interaction with Alex and his staff (and he has opened a camp in Serengeti - though I do not know the area - Sandi would!)
You could possibly do a stay 5, get 7 and divide your time since you are going to Tanzania - but don't get me started; your T/a will come after me for changing your mind!
I am just sharing what I know...
I too was obsessed with my plans, if you looked at any of my previous posts under FP, I asked so many questions, changed my mind constantly and always second guessed my decisions. FINALLY I just went with two areas - though if I had more time and money, I would have loved to add the Crater. (but I am burning through it) Next time!
DH thought it would be more of an adventure to stay at Serian and like I said we will spend 2 nights somewhere in the reserve at their Mobile camp, hoping to catch a view of Migration .
We like walking which they also love to do; Serian has a treehouse you can walk to and if you choose, you can sleep under the stars, tre' romance in the mara! I haven't decided on that and will play that by day.
So, check the reports, talk to your TA (they are small and could be booked for your dates - I booked last year) and if it is not to be, be happy with your choices. You will be in the Mara afterall!
Good Luck; Options are always a good thing!
$$$$burns
Alex's Serian Camp in the Serengeti is up north, between Jul/Oct (Sayari, Lemala, Olakira and Klein's are also up this way during same timeframe) and another in the Ndutu area, between Jan/Mar.
KQ6727 (codeshare operated by Precision Air) arrives at NBO (Jomo Kenyatta Intl) not Wilson. Immigration and baggage claim will take longer at NBO plus it's a longer drive to Sheldricks. I think you'd be cutting it really close trying to make it by 6:00pm.
I don't think it would work on the 25th either. The eles come back to the stockades around 5:00pm and you really need to be at NBO by that time for a 18:45 flight to Kigali.
The only other visitng time at Sheldrick other than late afternoon for foster parents is from 11:00-noon.
"Sereneti/Kogatende airstrip, dep 10am arriving Kili@ 1:15pm, dep KQ6727@ 3:30pm, arr Wilson 4:30pm"
Flights from Kogatende stop in Arusha before continuing onto JRO. Unless there are no seats available, there is the 1:45pm flight out of Arusha that gets into Wilson at 2:45pm, and as I mentioned above... sufficient time to check-in at HOW and get to Sheldrick by 4:45-5pm.
Have your agent check for this earlier flight. It also saves the 2+/hrs wait at JRO to Wilson.
I didn't have a chance to look at flight schedules earlier but if you're arriving at Kilimanjaro at 1:15pm, couldn't you take the 2:00pm Air Kenya flight to Wilson? Is your Kogatende-Kilimanjaro flight on Regional? They partner with Air Kenya. These flights are usually scheduled to connect same day.
Wow! so much information. I love it!
I read Twaffle's trip report (well, much of the 14 pages) and one of the things that really caught my eye about Serian is what she said in the end about having the same guides throughout eliminated the need to kind of break a second set, and having the total flexibility of your own vehicle.
And the fly camp sounds really good too!
So I have permission to go over this with our t.a. tomorrow when he's back at work (so we don't bother him on a Sunday)
And, I am also interested in bringing up the possibility of better connections re: Wilson.
Q: Will by beloved t.a. begin to hate me for this, or is it NOT so very, very unusual?
(Keep in mind that so far, nearly every change we made prior to booking this usually added something on rather than dropped something).
(PS: we are also staying at Oliver's in Tarangire, where they have a fly camp option as well. Has anyone done this at Oliver's, and if so, what is it like in their fly camp tents?)
Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Thank you moneyburns! We are now staying 5 nights Serian camp 3/2 mobile! I can't wait! Even more excited about the end of our trip now. So, we will definitely be there at the same time! How neat is this internet thing? WOW! (Should I wear a red carnation?) My husband is tall and speaks with a German accent, and I am average with dark hair and speak with a plain old American accent!
Thank you sandi and Patty! Because you cared enough to give me information on the flights, we are now now on the air Kenya flight at 1400 arriving at Wilson in time to have our driver pick us up @ 16:45 and take us to Sheldricks! I now have to go on line and sign up to foster an elephant.
I only hope that someday I can help someone make their trip the very best it can be!
P.S.: I was kidding about having permission. But I did run it past him. He's very happy about this too!
Tinydancer, I'm so pleased you managed to change to Serian and if you have even half the wonderful time I had you will have a blast. So you are going to be there at the same time as moneyburns … a mini Fodors get together. Boy, I hope you get on.
Oh, we'll get on! She's a y'all and so am I.
Thanks twaffle. I'll keep you in mind and look for more trip reports. And as I said, I'll be out here discussing which camera to bring, etc, as soon as I recover from the gazillion hours I've spent on line since I started this process.
(Still can't figure out how to do those smiley faces and hearts and stuff! Must be using Safari on a Mac.)
See y'all soon!
Glad to have helped and that you're on the earlier flight back to NBO, so you'll be in time to visit your chubby! Once you've adopted, remember to provide his/her name to your agent so they can advise Sheldrick of your expected arrival.
Glad it worked out! Have a great trip!
www.fodors.com/community/smileys
Tiny, OH MY LORDY, You did it! Now what dates will you be at Serian? I can't wait to meet ya'll - I've always wanted to meet someone from Fodors and you obviously share a passion for Africa!
Now I am really excited; as I said..so far out..booked end of 09 - I had to plan a trip in between (May) so I would not be wishing my months away!
We arrive Serian on 18; return to Nairobi 25th!
We can meet for sundowners! I'm blonde, average and will have frizzyhair b/c no hair dryer; but at least the animals won't care.... husband is average height , salt & pepper hair, laughs a lot and loves any adventure.
We will all be so excited to be there; but I am already jealous that you will have been to Tanzania and on to Kigali. Darn.
Next time - Crater and Chimps
Need to figure out how to communicate so we do not bore the forum. Have you ever posted on another forum, Trip Advisor? They have a PM device to send private messages- try a posting and I will pm you with my email address (hope it's legal to be saying all this on Fodors,but I know many Fodorites post on TA so hope it is!)
I think you will love Serian; I just found a video on youtube on Serian - so much fun to watch.
MoneyB
I was pleasantly surprised that t.a. even set up the driver to take us there, as I only mentioned Sheldrick's as the reason for wanting to get in earlier. I think we got really luck with finding our agent, he's been a pleasure to work with.
and we'll
and
and have a great time!
)
We are at Serian from the 20th - 25th. I'll be speaking
On Trip Advisor I am Nechama, and on Safaritalk I am tinydancer. Fodor's should consider enabling messaging.
Serian also has a resident leopard which is pretty special I understand.
(thanks Patty, the penny dropped
See y'all soon!
Sounds good TD, Nechama; I will go over and PM you;
about as much as I know at the time..ha
meanwhile
have you seen this - Sheldrick sent it to me:
www.wimp.com/elephantrescued/
It is amazing to watch a "team" working together in the wild! It is a group (are they herds?) of elies working together to rescue a baby elie who must have taken a spill into the waterhole and could not get out!
You're ahead of me; haven't had time to look at the emotions yet.
MB
That video is amazing!!!!!!!!!!
We definitely will have a party going on at Serian- Always wanted to go to a GTG!
Anybody else out there in the Mara ~ Sept. 20ish? Tinydancer and I wlll host a sundowner.
Twaffle, it will be time for another safari for you by Sept.
Glad you liked the video; I hope others have clicked on..it really was amazing to watch the elies working together to save their baby.
Now I have to figure out how I can get to your other camps. They look Awesome!
MoneyB
you have wonderful itinerary!
Do you mind disclosing the costs of your safari? I am trying to time the Australian dollar which is strong right now but hope to jump in with USD during the next dip. Peregrine is shockingly expensive but hopefully your agent is more reasonable.
I sent that video link to lots of people, it is just amazing! Actually, amazing doesn't even cover it. Stunning.
gilsomenni, I've also asked others for info on pricing. But I never looked again to see the reply because I thought the party probably shouldn't really disclose that to a stranger, for no particular reason. Maybe it's because I can tell that there are a number of travel agents on this site chatting with us. I'd rather not give the exact cost here, but I will tell you that it is between $500 - $1000 per day pp (including Rwanda ), plus flights (which, btw, got reduced by switching to Thai from Qantas). If you contact www.encompassafrica.com.au, (see their classic 4x4 safaris) and enquire about the itinerary I have described, (which we changed in the Masai Mara), I'm sure they can give you a good idea of the cost. We are definitely benefiting from the strong AUS$, and if it wasn't this strong, we could not and would not be doing this particular itinerary. This is the first time we have ever benefited from a strong AUS$. In the past we have been hit very, very hard, even having it happen one day after we landed in the states. We were there for a 5 week stay when our dollar dropped down to .45-6. That really hurt.
I'm totally confident in the company we are going with.
Here's an example of how part of this exercise went. We wanted to fly between Dunia and Sayari. Our t.a. suggested, instead, that we keep our driver and car because not only would we than have a full day's game drive across the Serengeti (a long day) with our private car, meaning we could stop or not as we wanted, but then we'd have our own private car at Sayari too. If you research some of the comments about sharing cars, you see that you can get paired up with people you do not enjoy being with, schedules not of your design, etc. And private vehicles at Sayari are expensive. So, we swapped paying for the flight from Dunia and a private vehicle at Sayari, to have control over our trip and do what we wanted. Probably less expensive for us too overall, and the driver gets a few more days work.
Ask a few other companies what it would cost you and you'll get the idea.
We are the kind of people who want what we consider to be 'value' to us. We don't want to be in budget places, unless it's only for one night when we are getting in late and leaving early. We don't need to blow our hard earned money on luxury when that is not what we are going for. We want to balance in between. And we like to try to get the very best we can get, of what is right for us, at what we consider to be a reasonable price.
This is still a high priced trip for us. But, we have no children. It makes a big difference.
PS: gilsomenni - you can also try Intrepid as they have a lot of flexibility at reasonable prices:
http://www.intrepidtravel.com/about/
Make that Ngorongoro Serena Lodge! And I tried so hard not to make that mistake! Sorry.