I LOVE this idea -- even though I know that others will reply that one size does not fit all.
As for your camera question: I am a strong proponent of Canon products, therefore, my suggestions will all be theirs. If you are truly a novice and not sure of how photography will fit into your life, I think you should take a look at the Canon S2IS or the new S3IS. These are incredibly flexible cameras which are really cool. I took a look at the comparison on the Canon website and the main difference which I thought would be especially helpful is that the S3IS can be set at an ISO of 800 while the S2IS tops out at 400. There are, of course, other improvements but they wouldn't be AS important to me.
On the other hand, if you feel that you would like to get a digital SLR, the entry level would be the Rebel. The 20D or the new 30D have big advantages over the Rebel. I have the 20D and love it. If the price is right, consider getting it instead of the 30D because the modifications are not major.

Well, hope you are a quick learner and have lots of spare time. Because 20 days to do all this is just about like going tomorrow. (Unless all you are doing is upgrading camera equipment). Having a new digital camera will not make good photos. You make good photos. If you have a lot of experience with 35mm SLIDE film (Velvia, Kodachrome), that will help.
Best advice from me, get on it quick and have fun. And have a great safari.
regards - tom

Hello,

I've put my recommendations first, followed by a list of the items in my own kit.

SERIOUS AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER
Camera: Digital SLR (2 bodies). Two bodies gives you a backup for worse case scenarios, and equally important enables you to avoid changing lenses in the field where dust can be a big issue.
• Canon 20D

Lenses: Minimum would be one WA zoom and one tele zoom. An additional WA lens for landscapes/indoor photography and a teleconverter (TC) for that bit of extra reach are also useful.
• Canon 24-105 f/4 IS
• Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS
• Canon 16-35 f/2.8
• Canon 1.4x TC

Filters: UV and circular polarizing filters for each lens. The polarizer in particular can truly save your bum in situations with dodgy lighting – the African sun is much more intense than we are used to in the northern hemisphere.
• I like B+W and Tiffen filters, but Hoya and Heliopan are also nice
• All of my filters are multi-coated to minimize flare
• Make sure to get thin filters for WA lenses to prevent unsightly vignetting

Camera support: Vital to make the most of your photographic opportunities.
• Monopod + shoulder brace (with quick release plate on ball head) for extra stability
• ‘Beanbag’ (I fill a giant Ziploc bag with beans or rice when I arrive in camp, and stick that inside another Ziploc bag for leak insurance).

Photo Storage: Either lots of cards, or a few cards plus a portable storage device (PSD).
• 5x 1GB CF cards (mix of Ultra II and Extreme III)
• Epson P-4000

Cleaning items: Lens pen, blower brush, lots of lens cloths, tweezer, screwdriver.

Adapters/Car Chargers: None for Southern Africa – the camps have adaptors for US and UK plugs. However, you may want to bring a convertor if you have appliances which run only on US voltage. Note that many safari companies in Southern Africa will not allow the use of invertors/car chargers. Since you don’t have the long six-hour drives which are typical in East Africa and can charge your equipment in camp, it’s not really an issue.

Batteries: Bring spare batteries for all electronic items.
• 5 camera batteries (1 in each camera plus 3 spare)
• 1 spare battery for Epson P-4000

Camera Bag: Don’t skimp here – this is what will protect all your precious gear. I strongly prefer a shoulder bag to a backpack as gear is much more accessible even when you are walking.
• Crumpler 6 Million Dollar Home

Tips: Andy Biggs for photo tips; Fredmiranda.com for great feedback on photos and good quality gently used kit.

Lessons Learned:
• Less is more -- too many SLR users lug around lots of lenses they don't use.
• Practice before you go -- you don't want to be trying to figure out how to use your quick-release plate in the field.
• If you have two camera bodies, keep your main WA zoom on one and your main tele zoom on the other – you should be equipped for most situations.
• If your budget is tight, skimp on your camera body (go 350D rather than 20D) and spend on glass. Good glass is worth its weight in gold.
• Take at least one very fast lens (f/2.8) for low-light shooting

Pro: Absolutely superb photographic quality. And it's a joy to use.

Cons: Weight. Expense.

Cheers,
Julian

Hello,

Here are my recommendations for the more casual photographer who may not want to invest in a dSLR. This is where I was 2 years ago.

CASUAL PHOTOGRAPHER

Camera: Prosumer super-zoom with a minimum 10x optical zoom and optical stabilisation. The Panasonic FZ series receives by far the best reviews in the super-zoom category, primarily because of their extremely fast (f/2.8) high quality Leica lenses and the superb anti-shake system incorporated into the design.
• Panasonic FZ20

Filters: A lot of people don't bother with filters for their super-zooms, thinking they are only for SLR users. A good basic set of filters will go a long way towards getting the shots you want.
• UV and circular polarizing filter (multi-coated to minimise flare).

Camera support: Vital to make the most of your photographic opportunities.
• ‘Beanbag’ (I fill a giant Ziploc bag with beans or rice when I arrive in camp, and stick that inside another Ziploc bag for leak insurance).

Photo Storage: Lots of cards, or a few cards plus a portable storage device (PSD). The iPod is much faster at uploading SD cards than it is with CF cards, and is much lighter and more portable than the Epson P-4000. Plus you can listen to music when you are stuck in the airport at Maun.
• 5x 512GB SD cards (Extreme III); 2 1GB SD cards
• iPod with camera adaptor

Cleaning items: Lens pen, blower brush, lots of lens cloths.

Adapters/Car Chargers: None for Southern Africa – the camps have adaptors for US and UK plugs. However, you may want to bring a convertor if you have appliances which run only on US voltage. Note that many safari companies in Southern Africa will not allow the use of invertors/car chargers. Since you don’t have the long six-hour drives which are typical in East Africa and can charge your equipment in camp, it’s not really an issue.

Batteries: Super-zooms tend to really eat battery power (probably because the zoom is incorporated into the camera body itself) so this is particularly important.
• 4 camera batteries (1 in camera plus 3 spare).

Camera Bag: Don’t skimp here – this is what will protect all your precious gear. I strongly prefer a shoulder bag to a backpack as gear is much more accessible even when you are walking.
• Crumpler Ben’s Pizza (medium)

Tips: Andy Biggs for photo tips; Fredmiranda.com for great feedback on photos and good quality gently used kit.

Lessons Learned:
• You can never, ever have too many batteries.
• Filters are worth their weight in gold for rescuing shots under the bright African sun.

Pro: Lightweight. Inexpensive compared to DSLR. Relatively easy to get very nice results. Manual override features allow for some experimentation with photography.

Cons: Low resolution (in megapixels) can make creating large high quality prints of your best shots frustrating. Not as flexible as DSLR. Limited capacity for low-light photography as viewfinders do not tend to function well in low-light situations.

Cheers,
Julian

Mediatorr:

I am pleased you like the idea, thank you for your camera suggestions.

Cary999:

Thank you for your advice and hopes for my abilities for a speedy education.

Julian:

Excellent! What a great expression – SERIOUS AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER – I feel more confident already!

Having all the items listed and categorized for a particular camera is extremely helpful and has given me a clear path for a plan of attack.

Cheers to you!

Den

Hello Den,

Glad you found my post helpful -- I take it you are going the DSLR route?

Cheers,
Julian

Jules I am very impressed that you can get all that gear into the $6 million Home!

Thank you Den for coming up with the idea and thank you to all responding. Great ideas.

Julian - WOW! THANK YOU very much.

Den - I'm thinking of the Canon DSLR route myself, but considering the Rebel XT as the camera body. Alternately for a BIG splurge - the Canon 30D looked like a good choice. Also finding that the 70-200 or even ~85-300 for those lovely animal pics. Please do keep in touch on your final decisions. I'm in the research phase on this too.

Here's a link to discussion on Binoculars:http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=4&tid=34781362

I am still learning but I wanted to make two comments:

1. In regards to the Canon S3 vs S2, I don't think the ISO 800 is a reason to get the newer camera. Check out this comparison of both at 400, apparently the S2 400 would be something like a 600 ISO on the S3:

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canons3is/page10.asp

I think it is difficult to justify paying over $100 more for the newer model since it is so similar to the S2. Having said that, both are excellent cameras.

2. In terms of polarizing filters for point-and-shoot cams like the Fz20, you can save some money buying a linear polarizer which should work with the focusing mechanisms on ultra-zooms.

-Matt

Greetings Jasher:

Yes, thank you very much, I have found your post very helpful and as I suspected it seems to be helpful to others as well!

I am leaning towards the DSLR route, unless I find it will be too much to learn in my limited time. I will post what camera choice I purchase.

I fear I would grumpy without high resolution photographs to play with and since I am also going to see the Gorilla’s in Rwanda the needs for low-light capacity are critical.

Also, thanks to Lovetodiscover and 99mkw!

Den from Chadds Ford, PA

Den-

I too will be gorilla trekking on my first safari this August. I know that some people meet up with them in a sunny field but I think you are definitely right to be prepared for low light. I had an Fz20 and really liked it but it was useless above ISO 100. I upgraded to a Minolta Maxxum 5D in anticipation of my safari. Here's a link to a great thread with photography info specific to the challenges of the gorillas:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=4&tid=34647769

What's you rough budget? Those 70-200 f/2.8 lenses don't come cheap, even without image stabilization! Also, think about if you'll have time to get used to the huge size and weight of those lenses in time for this trip. A stabilized 70-300 may be more versatile as well as easier to handle. I picked the Minolta because of the in-body stabilization and I plan to use a 70-210 f3.5-4.5 lens for the gorillas.

Whatever you pick, I agree with the other posters that you need to get it ASAP and start practicing right away. I've had my dSLR a few months and I'm just now starting to get photos as nice as I was accustomed to on the Fz20.

-Matt

Julian's responses are absolutely great...

My own list is roughly as follows though the exact choice of lenses depends on the destination:

[b]DSLR body of choice + backup body[/b]
I have a Canon 20D as main. At the moment I don't have a backup DSLR body but hope to have one again shortly.


[b]wide zoom[/b]
I have a Sigma 18-125mm on a camera with crop factor of 1.6 so it's equivalent to 29-200mm. Whilst it's fair to say that zooms don't produce as high a quality image as primes they are also a lot more practical for travel photography, especially when you can't fully compose by moving yourself nearer/ further from the subject. For most people I'd probably recommend a smaller range, starting at 17 or 18mm and going to perhaps 85mm but this was bought with city breaks in mind when I wanted to be able to go out and about with just one single lens on me.

[b]long zoom[/b]
This is where it becomes most difficult to recommend a range as it's much more personal a choice. I use a 75-300mm IS which = 480mm when one takes the 1.6 crop factor into account and that's plenty of reach for me. Others prefer a shorter lens with the addition of a converter. The advantage of the shorter lens is that it's often higher quality but the disadvantage to me is having to take that converter on and off. I do covet the wide apertures of some of the L series but know that with my shoulder and back problems AND my shooting style, they just aren't feasible.

[b]Other lenses[/b]
Depending entirely on where we're going and what I expect to be shooting I might also pack the 100mm macro (Botanical Gardens in Madeira?) or the 50mm 1.8 prime (candid people portraits?).

[b]And...[/b]
portable storage device of choice + charger unit for it
spare batteries for DSLR + charger
UV filters
circular polarisers
lens pen to clean lenses
digital sensor cleaning kit
CF cards
Tripod
Minitripod
Monopod (very occasionally indeed)
Cable release
Laptop (only on some trips)
blank DVDs (if taking laptop)

[b]Bag[/b]
A camera bag is such an important and oft overlooked accessory. For years, decades actually, I used a regular box-shaped bag with a flap lid and a strap that one carried on one shoulder. Really bad for those with bad backs like mine. A few years ago I finally invested in a Lowepro camera rucksack (I know have a number of different models) and have never looked back. Rucksacks make it really easy for me to carry pretty heavy weights without doing my back in completely. They aren't possible to access whilst actually on the move but I seldom need to do that and on the very very few occasions I do I simply put the bag on the ground for a moment, grab what I need and haul it back on again. The sling style ones work well for many people (and provide access from the front without having to take them off) but are not as good for those with bad backs as the weight is still all on one shoulder not distributed between both.

Oops, forgot it's < and > on here and not [ and ]!

Cooncat,

Everything but the monopod and shoulder brace...and those can be stuck through the loops on the side.

Matt,

In my experience, linear polarisers don't work nearly as well as circular polarisers on the super-zoom digicams. Circular polarisers are much more flexible and tend to work better with the AF and metering.

Den,

For your gorilla trek, I would recommend a fast zoom, ideally with IS. I haven't tried this lens myself, but the new Canon EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS sounds like it may be just want you're looking for in terms of your WA option.

Another option would be the 28-70 f/2.8, but that is one very expensive (and very heavy) piece of glass and does not have IS. In my experience, IS is worth its weight in gold on safari, particularly if you are shooting handheld in uneven terrain.

Your tele option will probably depend on where else your trip is taking you -- if you are going to East Africa, where you can't drive off-road, you will want some serious reach.

For your trekking, you will need a more lightweight portable option. The 70-300 IS is a good compromise. I actually have one of these I am looking to sell (I simply don't use it much with the 70-200 around. I was going to go to Fredmiranda, but if you're interested drop me an email.

The 70-200 f/2.8 IS is a great lens, but definitely NOT a trekking lens unless you are built like Arnold Schwarzenegger!

Cheers,
Julian

Julian, I've been so busy with family commitments recently bar my Lisbon work I haven't been around. Some very nice info you posted - a quick ?

With the 70 200 2.8 if you add the 1.4 extender does it maintain is capabilities?

Thinking of selling the 70 200 F4 and going the 2.8 route with extender or the sigma 120 300 f2.8 (see review)
http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=104&sort=7&cat=37&page=1
and adding the 1.4 extender which would give me almost 450 at the top end with F4, at least on the old EOS 1NHS. Shame no is though...

Hope all is well at work and life, when are you off or have you already been? God my memory is like a seive at the moment.

Matt

99mkw:

Thanks for the link to the thread for gorilla photography challenges.

Kavey:

Lots of great information laid out very nicely, thanks.

Jasher:

Again, thank you VERY MUCH for all your input! I know your information has helped many more folks than just me.

I am just horrified that I have not had the time I needed to dedicate to the photography end of my trip. Alas, I will be making my purchase this weekend. OUCH-I felt that slap on the wrist from everyone!

Unfortunately, I did not see your offer to purchase your camera in time but I thank you – I would have done it!

No, I am not built like Arnold Schwarzenegger but my Father is/was and used to work out with him, I think they even did a commercial together once to advertise their gym...

Den

Hello Matt,

The 70-200 IS maintains both AF and IS when the 1.4x extender is attached. The specs are altered as follows:

Focal length = 98-280 (35mm equivalent)
Aperture= f/4 - 45

Cheers,
Julian

I've just realized one VERY important accessory which has not been mentioned yet -- the camera's manual. It may seem obvious but it bears stating because it is so critical. In particular, it is inevitable that some unfamiliar symbol will show up, especially on a new camera. I always make a copy of the relevant (for example, I won't include pages about printing from a camera) pages (using both sides of the paper to cut down a little on bulk) and leave the original at home so that I don't have to worry about it. Sometimes, I get even a bit more compulsive and I highlight instructions I especially want at my fingertips.
An alternative for some cameras is a one sheet plasticized summary which can be purchased from places such as B&H Photo.

Hello,

Good point - I assumed that anyone taking a compex digital camera would take the manual, but it's definitely worth mentioning. If size/weight is an issue, you can tear out the section in your language of choice (mine has sections in five languages).

Bringing the manual for any complex bit of kit (like the Epson P-4000) is a good idea unless you're very familiar with how it works.

Cheers,
Julian

Jasher and all:

Here are the details of the camera I chose.

What do you all think about purchasing warranties?

Camera and Lenses:
Cannon 20D (body only)
Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM Lens
Canon 17-40mm F4 L USM EF Lens
Canon 70-300mm EF f/4-5.6 IS USM Lens

Filters:
UV and circular polarizing (mutli-coated) filters for both size lenses.

Photo Storage:
1 4GB and 1 2GB cards (Fast USB 2)

Power:
3 Batteries
Charger

Thanks for all your help!

Den

Very nice package Den. Giving me inspiration. I'd suggest protecting the components most likely to succumb to damage or consider your "body" of the camera vital since you do have 3 lenses in the event one does get damaged. Protect your greatest investment. All depends on the cost too.

lovetodiscover:

Hmmm...maybe I should forgo the WA for the Mini DV or DVD!

Den

I tend not to bother with extended warranties and simply add each item as an individually named item on my home contents insurance (or on my travel insurance if it works out cheaper for the same cover). But if the warranties seem better value, go for it!

PS Notice lack of portable storage device to empty cards onto should you take more images than you expect. May be worthwile.

I agree with Kavey. You would feel sick not being able to use your kit (or severely ration your pictures) the last several days because you'd run out of memory. Either get a few extra cards or a PSD.

-Matt

Another consideration for memory is that sometimes the cards become corrupted and, therefore, unusable. I actually had 2 cards go bad last summer in Mongolia. As in much of Africa, there was no place to buy another card while on our trip. I was sure glad I had a PSD and at least one more card. Sure, BTW, the camera store readily replace the bad cards but that sure wouldn't have helped during the trip. Personally, I'd go with a PSD (instead of the 4gig card) and an absolute minimum of 3 or 4 one gig cards. I doubt that it's worthwhile to get a 4gig card just because it holds more.

Hello,

Looks like an excellent kit, Den!

I have MACK camera warranties on my most expensive kit.

http://www.mackcam.com

Personally, I avoid cards larger than 1GB. In my experience (and those of other photographers I know) the larger-capacity cards are more likely to become corrupt, and if something happens to your large-capacity card it will take a huge number of your photos with it. If you haven't opened the card, I'd recommed taking it back and swapping for a few smaller capacity ones.

I second the recommendation to buy a PSD.

Cheers,
Julian

Drats! Well, it is what it is now-didn’t catch the memory card or the Mack camera warranties information in time. I opted for the 4 GB card because it was so much cheaper per GB!

I dropped the Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM Lens. The thought of three lenses started to seem like to much work since I am new to the camera and I think when I go for a WA I would like a wider one!

Here is what I ended up with:

Camera and Lenses:
Cannon 20D (body only)
Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM Lens
Canon 70-300mm EF f/4-5.6 IS USM Lens

Filters:
UV and circular polarizing (mutli-coated) filters for both size lenses.

Power:
3 Batteries
Charger

Photo Storage:
1 4GB and 1 2GB cards (Fast USB 2)

Added:
2 1 GB cards

1 Mini DV ZR 700 (Thought this would be knock about fun)
2 batteries
12 1 hour tapes!
Decided on an extended service program on the 2 lenses and camera body for one year only.

The young man from the store gave me a very helpful camera lesson at my level - he teaches 8-11 year olds how to use DSLR cameras! Small world - he is a University of Delaware student just back from Tanzania and about to go to Vietnam.

Well, I am off tomorrow on my big adventure in the morning. Hopefully I will bring back a decent photo or two.

Asante sana!

Den

It may be too late but in case you see this before you leave, I have a suggestion for wide angle situations now that you're not bringing that lens. You can take a sequence of shots which overlap each other (left to right, right to left, up to down, in a square, etc.) and then stitch them together. It's a little bit trickier, but you can waste pictures with a certain amount of impunity so you can give it a try and, if it doesn't look like it worked, just dump them. There are software programs which will assist with this task but that's a lesson upon your return.

Mediatorr:

Great idea!

Den