Hi Tom,

Cannot wait to hear about MalaMala, as my favourite destination by far! Also keen to hear about the Zambia place as I get their newsletter every Monday and the snake cut open with the 67 (?) was fascinating though a bit gross, and a real shame that none of those pythons ever got a chance.

Kind regards,

Kaye

Kaye - a sneak preview, Mala is also my favourite by far.
regards - tom
ps - 67 what?

Hi Tom
Glad to see you made the right choice with a Nikon!(I have the D2Hs).
Have not found anything (on Google) in regards to the Joberg B&B- The Dove's Nest?
We'll need a nice B&B for our o'nighter before Zambia next Sept. Do have anymore details or a Web address perhaps?

Cheers
Marc

Dove's Nest
Colleen Groenewald
email- colleen_medic at yahoo dott com
phone - 011 975 1746 or 083 234 8525
regards - tom

A new camera Tom! I don't remember you mentioning this. Will be anxious to see your results and also here about Kruger and Mala Mala. MM is #1 on my list for next trip.

On a side note, did you catch the show last night?

A new camera Tom! I don't remember you mentioning this. Will be anxious to see your results and also here about Kruger and Mala Mala. MM is #1 on my list for next trip.

Carla-
MM should be #1
Catch show? You mean the Leopard Eye?
Yes, saw it, recorded it on DVD for Julian. Will also bring a couple of extra copies to LA GTG if anyone wants it. Also recorded the first four chapters of Meerkat Manor for Julian (not sure if he gets it in UK) and anyone else.
New camera was fun, but also a lot more work with the photos back home. I also took the S2 for back up and video clips.
looking forward to Saturday.
regards - tom
ps - please don't tell the FBI copyright police what I did.

You couldn't have had any cuter lion cub photo opps. That little guy in the tree is adorable. Some excellent leopard action at Mala Mala. One of your lion and vehicle shots looks like the lion is on the game drive with you!

In one of your 5 parts, please post your itinerary. You are one of the few that spanned the continent from south to north stopping in 4 countries. It would be informative to see how you did that and the time frames. When posters ask about a cross-continent trip or staying within a country or two, your perspective would be helpful.

Itinerary, you're right, should have been in part 1. I tried posting the table of it just now and it reformatted into a mess here in this reply. Will redo it somehow and also put it in a summary section of part 5.
regards - tom

Ok, here goes itinerary in format taht fodors likes. If it is a big mess I'll try again.


2006 Africa Itinerary for
Tom and Carolyn


Saturday 2-Sep-06
Fly leave LAX 10:38a

Sunday 3-Sep-06
arrive Joburg 9:00p Doves Nest B&B

Monday 4-Sep-06
drive So. Africa Idle & Wilde B&B

Tuesday 5-Sep-06 Kruger
Wednesday 6-Sep-06 Kruger
Thursday 7-Sep-06 Kruger

Friday 8-Sep-06 Kruger-Mala Mala
Drive to MalaMala
Saturday 9-Sep-06 Mala Mala
Sunday 10-Sep-06 Mala Mala
Monday 11-Sep-06 Mala Mala

Tuesday 12-Sep-06 Mala Mala-Jo'burg
Fly 12:30p-1:35p
Fly Jo'burg-Lusaka 6:10p-8:10p Holiday Inn Lusaka

Wednesday 13-Sep-06 Lusaka- Nsefu
Fly 11:30a-12:0p Lusaka -Mfuwe
Thursday 14-Sep-06 Nsefu
Friday 15-Sep-06 Nsefu
Saturday 16-Sep-06 Nsefu
Sunday 17-Sep-06 Tena Tena
Monday 18-Sep-06 Tena Tena

Tuesday 19-Sep-06 Mfuwe-Lusaka
Fly 9:45a-10:55a Holiday Inn
Wednesday 20-Sep-06 Lusak-Nairobi
Fly 12:50a-4:30p Norfolk Hotel

Thursday 21-Sep-06 Nairobi- Mara
Fly 10:00a-10:45a Lit. Gov. Camp
Friday 22-Sep-06 Lit. Gov. Camp
Saturday 23-Sep-06 Lit. Gov. Camp
Sunday 24-Sep-06 Lit. Gov. Camp
Monday 25-Sep-06 Lit. Gov .Camp

Tuesday 26-Sep-06 Mara-Nairobi
Fly 11:00a-12:15p Norfolk Hotel
Wednesday 27-Sep-06 Norfolk

Thursday 28-Sep-06 leave Nairobi
Fly 10:00p
Friday 29-Sep-06 arrive LAX
2:10p Home

Total of 18 nights in five safari camps

I must add to this list. We were on 14 (fourteen) different airplanes. Six just going and returning from Africa and then eight inside Africa.
regard - tom

Trip Report - SAFARI 2006, Carolyn and Tom, So. Africa, Zambia, Kenya
Kruger National Park, Part 2 of 5 parts.
A (very) few photos at http://www.kodakgallery.com/tdgraham/main/kruger_2006

Three nights September 5, 6, 7th.
This report part 2 is not really that long/wordy. But it is a real chore for me to wade through all our photos to pick out a few to show. That takes probably three times longer to do than to write this. So from a time wise perspective it makes it better for me even if the reports do not read that long.

Please note, adding Kruger to our camps brought the total of camp nights from 15 to 18.

September 5th. The drive of about 40 miles from Hazyview to the Paul Kruger Gate took about an hour and as we drove on highway S1 in we took notice of the road sign just before Kruger directing us to turn off for MalaMala (and other Sabi Sand camps). Just before the main Paul Kruger gate there is a large river and we had to stop and take photos of the few hippos in the river under the bridge. Our first game photos of the trip. Our stay at Kruger was for three nights at two camps. First was two nights at camp Mopani then one night at camp Satara. I would have liked all three night at camp Satara because Mopani is about 130 miles from the main gate. Kruger is a huge park. We needed to exit Kruger before noon the last day to drive to MalaMala in time for the afternoon game drive. But Satara was full for those first two nights and Mopani was the next closest big camp. First Kruger main camp was Sukuza, the main one about 50 miles from the Kruger Gate. Next was camp Satara and further up Mopani which we arrived at around 5pm. All of the camps are enclosed and you must arrive before the gate closes, typically 6pm. Along the way we saw very close to the road: elephants, giraffes, zebra, buffalo, vultures, antelope. But no big cats today.

We checked into bungalow 22 which is a free standing roundavel type and very clean and comfortable. Dinner was at the large camp restaurant which was only about 20 percent capacity. Next morning Sep 6th we had reserved an early morning walk and we left camp and were driven about 6 miles to begin the walk. We and a family of four walked for 2 hours in low rather flat land, low dead grass. We saw one giraffe about 100 meters away. I’d bet the walk leader chose this location because he knew there were no big animals anywhere near. A dull walk if you ask me. Back at camp we had breakfast, eggs, bacon toast, orange juice about $10 total for both of us. Took it easy the rest of the day. Cheeseburgers, fries, cokes for lunch again about $10. At 8pm we left on a night drive with 12 other guest in a small open sided truck. With the spotlight we saw a few eles, couple of giraffes, bush buck, impales, but no cats.

Sep 7th we simply woke up very early and at 6am went over to the restaurant for breakfast. The place was empty, the staff was mopping the floor. We asked when they opened for breakfast and they now was ok, what would we like. Coffee, juice, eggs, toast , $10. That night we were staying at Satara so at check out I asked the desk clerk if it was always so ‘quiet” at Mopani. She said on week days it is, but, on weekends and school holidays they are at capacity.

The drive to Satara is about 70 miles and we stopped briefly at two other camps just to see them and for coffee. They were nice also. ( I have no notes about and game we saw along the way). Checked in at Satara, our hut was nice but much smaller than the one at Mopani. Lunch, lamb curry, sandwich, beer and coke, $11. At 5pm our “sunset drive” until 8pm. Two comfortable open sided trucks of tourists went out, each truck about half full. We saw cats. A lioness and three cubs. About 50 meters from the road but very visible in the spotlight. Viewed them for about 10 minutes. Also saw a few eles, buffalos, hyenas, water bucks, impalas. Back at 8pm dinning was large buffet or ready made sandwiches. We weren’t very hungry so sandwiches, chips, beer, coke, $10.

Sep 8th, the day to drive to Mala Mala. Drove to camp Skukuza, about two hours with several stops to see game on the road. A party of 6 or 7 giraffes could not decide whether to cross the road or not. Five started to cross then stopped in the middle of the road. A car came around slowly and they then decided to scatter. It began raining, a light sprinkle, a troop of baboons were drinking from the small puddles on the road. We crept passed them.

Arrived at camp Skukuza which has an Avis car rental office. The plan again was to drive the car to Mala and let Avis collect it there. How this actually worked is that an Avis staff fellow joined is in the car and we (Carolyn) drove to Mala. Took somewhat over one hour over a gravel road, sometimes very bumpy. The Avis fellow said he makes this trip about twice a week. He drove the car back to Skukuza, nice for us, we got rid of it then and there.

We liked Kruger. Having just spent many hours getting to Africa, driving thru the countryside to Kruger and Kruger at our own pace was a good way to unwind and start to relax. (Easy for me to say since Carolyn was driving). Plus we got to see some of the game we came to Africa for, get us in the mood for the “big boys”. And the cost was very moderate. The Avis rental car was around $60 per day, and another $80 total for gasoline. The huts at Mopani and Satara were $70 per night and we spent about another $40 per day eating. The walks, sunset drives, were $15 each. So the cost for the two of us at $200 per day. One-fifth the cost of the safari camps we were going to next.
End of Part 2, Kruger
Next Part 3, Mala Mala

You had nice long stays in each of your camps/countries. I'm looking forward to Mala Mala since my first trip there is next June.

Trip Report
SAFARI 2006, Carolyn and Tom, So. Africa, Zambia, Kenya
Mala Mala South Africa, Part 3 of 5 parts.
Four nights September 8, 9, 10, 11th.

A few photos at – http://www.kodakgallery.com/tdgraham/main/mala_mala_2006
Well, it’s Sep 8th and after the night at camp Satara we’ve left Kruger Sukuza in our VW hired car with the Avis representative to drive to Mala Mala. Less than 3 miles out of the Paul Kruger Main Gate is a dirt/gravel road with many little signs indicating this is the road to Mala Mala, Sabi Sabi, Londolozi, Singita, and others. An hour plus drive on this bumpy road and we’re at Mala and turn the car over for the Avis guy to drive back. Our Mala Ranger Grant is there to meet us and show us to our bungalow number 8.

Good place to start with Mala Mala is the Rangers. Last year we had John, this year Grant. I really can’t say enough good about the rangers. They are your primary contact and interface with Mala and they do an excellent job of it. Your ranger starts by giving you a wake up call, 6:45 am, in the morning, meets you for breakfast, takes your egg order, sees that coffee or tea is served to you by waiters. At lunch he meets you in the lounge to show you to your table, sees that you have what you want to drink and joins you for lunch. Dinner at night in the Boma he does much the same. He is with you 12 hours a day. The rangers are excellent communicators, their English and vocabulary is excellent. They are university educated. They listen, they know what you are interested in. They know photography and have a personal camera with them. This is a big deal for me, this photography thing. Other “native” guides, at other camps, have not grown up with cameras, do not have a camera, and thus can’t appreciate the importance of lighting and subject position. The Mala rangers use radios, but they use a headset and you do not hear radio chatter. They have vehicle discipline at a sighting. No more than three vehicles and they rotate in and out. If the sighting is “still”, i.e., animals not moving about, only one vehicle moves at a time. Mala rangers are not a notch above the rest, they are ten notches above the rest. And then, there are the Shangaan trackers, they set high and in back on the Land Rovers. And on every game drive, not just at night with a spotlight. Theses natives are simply remarkable in seeing and knowing the game. While the ranger concentrates on driving the tracker sees every animal and insect within 400 meters all around, I swear they do.

Our bungalow, #8, was most attractive, large and comfortable. You enter into a large sitting room with couch, the bedroom was a roundavel and off of each side of it were toilet/bath facilities (2 sets). Both the sitting room and bedroom had large patio doors. There is air conditioning if you wish to use it. The meals were excellent. All basically buffet style with a good selection. Breakfast and lunch were on the lounge patio and dinner in the boma. There was no charge for bottled water but soft drinks and more were charged for at a reasonable cost. The electricity is on 24 hours a day which helps the battery charging situation. The electrical outlets are a combination to accept European and USA plugs.

Great, but what about the game drives, you ask. After breakfast, before 7:30am, you start the morning game drive and come back about 11:30am. Just after tea at 3pm another game drive into dark getting back around 7:30pm. This night game drive is important to me. After sundowners you usually follow the lion pride as they start hunting. This is very exciting at night by spotlight. We followed but did not stay out long enough to witness a kill which can take hours to accomplish or not at all. Every game drive is a delight. We saw lion, leopard, elephant and buffalo. Rhino is harder to come by and we saw them on only two game drives. For some of the game drive highlights –

The morning of Sep 9th we found part of the Styx pride, the male lion eating at a buffalo kill with three females near by. Ranger Grant told us that the night before two nomadic males had found the females who had three young cubs. The next morning there was one of the cubs high up in a tree and nothing known of the other two. We found the poor thing in the tree and it remained there under threat from the nomad males for a couple of days. (But we did not see the males). Then to every ones delight on Sep 10th we found the cub nursing with the three females just across the Sabi river from camp. We watched the cub for several minutes it knew only three things, eat, nurse, suckle. On Sep12th in the morning and that evening we followed the Styx pride out on hunt and the little cub was with them just as jaunty as could be. Also on the 10th morning we found an absolutely huge male rhino grazing. A klipspringer posed beautifully on a rock. The night of the 10th was very clear and I marveled at the vastness of the Milky Way Galaxy. I have been reading about the origins of the universe, big bang, the first three minutes, etc. And seeing the Milky Way took on new meaning.

Around this time the Newington Male leopard had wandered into the Bicycle Crossing Male’s territory. This upset both leopards and for a night and into the next day they fussed , growled, marked, from about 50 meters apart in the bush. Nothing else came of it. The next day the Newington Male had left for his own territory.

Bottom line - every game drive at Mala is worth three at any of the other camps. Sometimes it seems that when Mala Mala is mentioned (and maybe other Sabi Sand camps) an almost smirk is the visual response. I think perhaps some people can’t separate the excellent Mala facility from the bush. They feel that if the facility is civilized then the bush is also civilized. Well, if to have the true safari experience you must vehicle in for two hours on a dirt road, sleep in a tent and shower from a bucket then so be it. It doesn’t bother my safari experience to have a comfortable bed. Every day there were antelope grazing just outside of our patio. From the patio we could see elephants and giraffes just across the Sabi Sand River. One mid-day an elephant come into camp and destroyed several potted plants before being chased off. Finally, if Mala is one of the safari camps on your itinerary, don’t go – to Mala first. After Mala, at the other camps you will be saying – gee, this (fill in the blank) was better at MalaMala.
End of Part 3 Mala Mala
Part 4 is Zambia, Nsefu and Tena Tena

Tom

You saw some great stuff at Mala Mala, I had been reading about the little Lion cub, but to see him up the tree with the two males nearby must have been quite difficult. I think I have also seen the huge Rhino you refer to in the past. He seems to be significantly larger than any others.
As for your general comments on MM and SSGR you are IMO spot on. I love MM and the wildness of Botswana, but for sheer in your face quantity and quality of game viewing MM takes some beating. It is the equal of Mombo I think, though very different.

interesting what you guys say at mala mala. i have only heard great things about the game and hopefully will visit one day. one complaint that i heard about MM was that the guides listened to the radio (i noticed you mentioned the earphones) and when asked questions by guests they werent even aware the guest was talking. i figured from all the rave reviews that this was a one off bad experience and not normal but i figured i'd ask. i really enjoy picking teh guides brains about the bush. learning new things is almost as enjoyable as seeing new things for me.

The rangers have a headset that has only one ear piece. But that still does not guarantee they would hear you. I did not notice this problem. They also have to hear the tracker when he signals so the ranger can't be totally lost in the radio.
regards - tom

Tom,

While i agree with you, that MM rangers have a good instinct for the correct angles for photography (I had Ryan as our ranger in 2004), i have to say that i've had several fantastic native African guides who did a brilliant job with the right angles for photography. It all depends on the training provided to them and their general instincts. I'm mostly referring to guiding in Botswana.....but, i also had a fantastic guide- "Jabu" at Lion Sands.....i think he is at Sabi Sabi now having read some fodorite reports over the past few months.

In East Africa, i have had mixed feelings about the guiding....but, my exposure to East Africa isnt as much as Southern Africa.

Hari

One more thing...you start your morning drive at 7 30?

Hari

Between 7:00 and 7:30am. Sounds kind of late, I know. There is something going on there with time changes maybe. I heard something about the time being moved up an hour. Sort of like our daylight savings change? It still did not feel any later than the drives in Zambia and Kenya that started at 6:30. I don't know, maybe someone else can shed some light on it In my opinion, all camp game drives start an hour too late in the morning.
regard - tom

Tom,

On my recent visit to Botswana in August, we generally left camp just around 6 15Am every morning. If felt right....i would just hv a quick cup of coffee while the guides get a quick bite of muffins and fruit to get themselves kick-started for their day...then we'd rush off to avoid missing the best morning light.

In the Sabi Sands, in Dulini in August...we set out around 6ish, doing the coffee stop in the bush around 7 30 thereabouts......plus or minus depending on the game that particular morning.....

Hari

The 7:30 start is the winter start. In summer it is earlier. You can also request an earlier start, or generally just get moving faster, but you need your own vehicle or like minded people.

As for the radio, it is way less intrusive than Radio Botswana where the guides dont where a headset.

I have never had any issues about the radios at MM, the rangers do not over use them, so there is not an issue of constant chatter. Also remember if you are sitting behind the ranger while the vehicle is moving and you ask a question, it might not be the radio's fault that he doesn't hear.

Trip Report
SAFARI 2006, Carolyn and Tom, So. Africa, Zambia, Kenya
Robin Pope camps Nsefu & Tena Tena, Zambia, Part 4 of 5 parts.
Six nights September 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18th.

A few photos at - http://www.kodakgallery.com/tdgraham/main/Nsefu_Tena_2006
September 13th. After the morning game drive at Mala we flew to Joburg, a four hour layover and then to Lusaka Zambia getting into Lusaka at 8:10pm. Robin Pope Safaris (and other safari operators) clients are wavered the Zambia visa fee if the operator sends the proper letter. Zambian immigration said they knew nothing about it for us and said we could look through the four huge books of letters for it. We wasted over half an hour looking, did not find it so paid the visa fee of $25 each person. But we do believe the letter was there, somewhere, Robin Pope is good about this. We were spending the night at the Lusaka Holiday Inn. And then the next morning catching an 11:30am flight to Mfuwe airport. The Holiday Inn shuttle was not at the airport so we hired a taxi for $25. This was just the beginning of problems at the Holiday Inn. I don’t care to discuss them all and waste your time. If the Holiday Inn management wishes to contact me, I will tell them all about it. The flight to Mfuwe is one hour and after a coke and beer at the tiny café outside of the airport we were in the Toyota Land Cruiser for the one and one-half hour ride to camp Nsefu. Camp Nsefu is inside the South Luangwa National Park as is Tena Tena. We were greeted at the camp, offered a cold wet hand/face towel and a drink from the bar/lounge. Nsefu does not charge for soft drinks, beer, wine, or liquor and seem to be the no worse off for it. (Perhaps this cost is included in the base rate? Maybe other camps (you listening Mala, Little Governors ?) should do this and not appear so “cheap”). We checked in to hut number 4 and took it easy until tea at 3:45pm.

Nsefu and Tena Tena are very small, 12 guests and 10 guests. Breakfast is outside around a small fire to cook toast, hot and cold cereals are also there, juice, coffee tea. No omelets to order, no eggs Florentine. Lunch is at a large table family style with all guest and camp management. Dinner the same way as lunch. We liked this, it was fun to meet and talk with everyone in camp. The meals were very good but certainly limited in selection compared to the big camps. Again, soda, beer, wine, flowed at your pleasure.


The Zambezi river winds its way through this area and both camps are built right on the edge of it. Very beautiful setting. You look out and you see a lot of river and a lot of wilderness. And hippopotamus, lots of them in the river. A couple nights I was woke by a munching /crunching sound and it was a hippo about 20 meters away. The sense of being far away deep in the wilderness is the prime appeal for me for these camps. The old dry river channel is now very flat with short grass and when covered in impala and puku in the morning or late afternoon light has a surreal real enchanting look and feel about it. We met again a couple (also) from California who were there last year. They’ve come to these camps for years because they like the informal, wilderness, quietness of them. (And then they go off to other camps, this year they were going next to Leopard Hills, Sabi Sands). If camps like Mala Mala seem too close to civilization for you, then Nsefu and Tena should be more to your liking.

So it’s 4pm, first day, time for the afternoon/evening game drive, let’s find the lion Nsefu pride. There is one pride in the Nsefu area called the Nsefu pride. The pride has one male, five adult lioness, and five cubs. Two of the cubs are around 3-4 months old and the other two are 5-6 months. We found them, just before dark, they were romping about. Why couldn’t we have found them 30 minutes earlier when there was still some sun light? As is, yes we have photos of the cute cubs but that is all that they are. The light was much too flat and gone. So, we had sundowners. After sundowners we picked the pride up going out on hunt, followed very close to the cubs in back and got some cute little video clips of the cubs. The lioness brought down an impala and a puku and we arrived on the scene very shortly. Three lioness had the impala down and were eating it alive with the poor impala moaning in pain and protest. We wanted to help the impala by killing it quickly somehow. Two nights later we saw much the same scene but with only one puku killed. On that night before we came to the kill we found a porcupine in an open non grassy area and it was very relaxed around the vehicle. I got a good photos of it.

One morning we found a small water/mud hole that was just beautiful. There were a pair of Egyptian geese, couple of storks and best of all a fish eagle. The fish eagle stood on the edge of the big puddle looking for, yes, fish. Two flying passes into the muddy pool yielded nothing but the third it came up with a small (muddy) catfish. It took the fish into a tree where it was quickly joined by its youngster. A family of elephants slowly ate their way towards the pond and it would have been great to see them drink and bathe. But they heard or saw us and meandered away.

Carolyn and another British couple took a morning to visit nearby Kwaza village and school. (I visited last year and opted to stay for the game drive). They give you a nice little tour of the village and a very good tour of the school. It is for grades 1-9. They visited several classrooms and a student assembly. The villagers prepared a simple lunch for them and then performed dances accompanied by drummers. No cost, no charge for this. The kids themselves are worth the visit, they are so friendly and inquisitive.

After four nights at Nsefu we transferred by a 10 minute drive to camp Tena Tena. That is, I “drove”, Carolyn walked over. She really liked that walk and did another one at Tena Tena. But of course one of her hobbies is long distance walking, so no surprise. She did say that unlike the walk in Kruger these walks had a real sense of danger to them. On my drive over to Tena we went by a large pond of water and sunning on the far bank were maybe 50 yellow billed storks, a few pelicans, and Egyptian geese. Another idyllic setting. Tena is a tented camp that is taken down in November and then back up in April (?). It is also by the river and has a look and feel to it that I like more than Nsefu.

At Tena we were again joined by the couple from California and by another couple from the USA. That lady was a talker. I told our guide that on a game drive I expected to hear only him talk and nature “talk”. The rest could wait for the bar or dinner. He agreed and made sure the gal did not sit next to him in the land cruiser. She did not find it interesting to talk to her husband.

The highlight game drive for me at Tena was a den of two very young hyena pups, still all black. We went over after dark and glimpsed the two pups outside the hole. They went down and we waited for them to come back out, then drove over to look inside the den. There they were munching on an impala head mum had left for them. We photographed and waited for mum to come back but she did not.

The game drives at Nsefu and Tena are hard to describe. The game is sparser/less concentrated than at say Mala. The guides work hard at finding it and sometimes it is outstanding as for example the lion kills and hyena pups. One thing I don’t understand is leopards. We have been at those camps for a total of 10 nights and have seen leopards only twice. “Glimpsed” is a better word than seen, about 30 seconds each time at night by spotlight. I don’t get it about leopards. The guides, vehicle drivers, try very hard to find the cats, elephants and other large animals but except for impala and puke it is again rather thin. Also these native guides are not photographers and thus required a lot of “coaching”. I suggested to camp management that they give the guides a digital camera and every couple of weeks bring their photos up on a PC for fun and comments among the staff.

On the way back to the Mfuwe airport, near Mfuwe, we stopped at the Tribal Textiles, a large crafts shop where locals take plain white fabric, draw patterns on it and paint it then sew it into many different article such has table cloths, hand bags, head scarves. Very interesting and pretty work. They have a web site - http://www.tribaltextiles.co.zm/. We picked up some pillow cases.

If I go back, it will be to Tena Tena, but it may be time try other camps in Zambia.

End of Part 4, Zambia, Nsefu and Tena Tena
Next is Part 5, Kenya, Little Governor’s Camp

Hi Tom,

Wonderful report and pictures. Thanks so very much. One point of clarification, however: I think that South Luangua Nat. Park is on the Luangua River, not the Zambezi which is a different drainage.

We just returned from our most amazing journey to Zambia and our first safari, and visited both regions (just started our trip report on another thread) which are quite different from each other.

We also visited a school (not the same one you did) and had a wonderful time there. We took them pens, pencils, and soccer balls. Not much relative to their needs but they were most appreciative. They do so much with so little. There are some efforts to provide additional funding through donations to help them out. Basics like roofs over the students' heads and chalk boards rather than rough plywood that eats through chalk. Sean and MaryAnn at Luangwa River Lodge where we stayed for 6 nights are helping to organize the effort. I'll post more later about how to help.

Jim

You have the best shot of an American Eagle Owl that I remember seeing and I love the porcupine and the mock charge!

My BIG mistake, it is the Luangwa, not Zambezi river. Also I misspelled the village/school, should be Kawaza.

The owl is always there on the road into camp. Just lucky to get a decent photo.
The porcupine was remarkable, they are usually very shy and run into the bush. This one was in an open field area and paid us no attention, it crossed right in front of the vehicle.
The mock charge was fun, a newly wed couple was there in the back seat and she was videoing it but was also screaming and ducking all over. The "chargers" never got very close, they just wanted to see us on our way.
regards - tom

Your comments and reactions on Mala Mala and what you saw there were very informative and intriguing.

Hyena cubs, a couple of lion kills and a good look at a porcupine is a wildly successful Zambia stop.

Not sure if you're trying to make a point. But I may know what you're driving at. Firstly, Zambia had its moments, like you say, like I said. But we were also there 6 nights versus 4 at Mala. It's sort of like 10% of the Zambia game drive time was interesting while 30% of the game drive time at Mala was interesting. The guides at Robin Pope spent a lot of time just wandering around, which is ok, it is pretty country. But they do not have the advantage of "scouts", other rangers who are moving about and finding things, e.g. Mala. So, yeah, maybe Zambia was "wildly successful" but if it had not been for those particular sightings I would have considered it close to failure. Like I said, leopards, what leopards? Been there 10 nights and glimpsed leopards twice, at night , in a spotlight. Absolutely no comparison with leopards at Mala. Maybe I'm making more of this than necessary?
regards - tom

Honest comparisons help us all in deciding where we want to go so I appreciate your candor.

I've had that experience numerous times where I've thought if not for this or that, it would have been a rather dull game drive. Or if not for that one day, this camp might not have been worth the effort. But those spectacular viewings and experiences seem to crop up at just at the right time to save the day and offer special memorable experience. I think that's what draws me back to Africa.

I can't quite seem to comprehend the bounty at Mala Mala that everyone who goes there is privileged to see. That's why I'm going to check it out!

What does 2007 look like?

Good point Lynn, but i wouldnt compare Mala Mala with Zambia or Botswana. It can only be compared to other areas in the Sabi Sands.

I think the success of the entire SSGR is due to the whole history of it.....right from the management of road networks in the reserve, to the man-made water holes/dams in every traversing zone, to the early days when the leopards started to relax around the vehicles.....

Hari

Lynn,
So true about those unexpected viewings that take you from the ho hum moment to a life time memory. Draws me back also.
Hari has an interesting way to look at it. In my case, the (relatively few) game drives I've been on in Botswana, Zambia, and Kenya are in one category, those in Mala a different category. And I’m not necessarily saying that Mala’s “category” is better, just a different species.
I know you will be happy to check it out next year (didn’t you say you had plans?). And I’ll be happy to hear how you describe and like it.
As for 2007? Mala? Me? The Mala web site availability calendar is really tight for September 2007. My first inclination is to go there for 5 nights but we haven’t seriously talked about it yet. May be too late already unless we get on a wait list.
regards - tom

Tom: Judithlorraine's report from a trip last May was similar to yours for Nsefu/Tena Tena. She has traveled to a number of camps in Zambia and Botswana and her report was the game in that area was sparse, somewhat skitish, and she was disappointed in the competency of the guiding. She also reported hearing gun shots from the neighboring hunting concession and indicated that it may be a problem for the predators, particularly male lions.

This could explain why the leopards in the area are shy. You do need to understand though that leopards in general are considered to be very shy, elusive and were widely considered ghosts meaning two sightings in ten days is ordinarily pretty solid. As Hari mentioned the Sabi Sands is famous for their habituated leopards and it is the premier location to view them. When you consider how many vehicles are in the relatively small area of the Sabi Sands vs. the exposure leopards in South Luangwa receive to vehicles the ability to habituate becomes clear. I know a safari agent who used to guide in Tanzania and has travelled extensively throughout most known safari areas and he was amazed at how in his words 'tame' the Mala Mala leopards were -- he considered it zoo like compared to other areas. As you say the experiences are quite different. I am becoming convinced that for some people once they go to the Sabi Sands anything else is somewhat disappointing while others prefer an experience with a more wild and less touristed landscape and of course others can savor each for their differences.

In light of the other report it may be that the guides at those paricular camps are not top notch and their lack of proper angles etc probably has a lot more to do with insufficient training than being natives who are not photographers. There are many guides who have grown up local to camps who have developed to be very skilled in photo guiding. You also have to consider that with animals that are not as habituated you cannot always move to the ideal angles without them moving off -- I imagine at Sabi Sands the animals will in general be much more tolerant of vehicles shifting around than the Nsefu/Tena.

Looking forward to the rest of the trip report.

Hi Tom,

I am enjoying the trip report. Thanks.

About leopards in South Luangwa, I believe they are best represented in the Chichele area near Puku Ridge and Chichele Presidential Lodge. Nkwali and Kafunta also seem to take advantage of this area for their respective game drives. On one game drive in June 2004 (June NOT being the best month for gameviewing), there were four different leopards spotted on a single gamedrive from Chichele Presidential Lodge in a fellow vehicle...unfortunately, in my own vehicle we only caught up to one of those leopard spottings but it does show how well leopards are represented in the area.

Of course, it is hard to beat the Sabi Sand for photographing leopards since there is probably no other place where they are more accustomed to the safari vehicles, often even using the vehicles to assist in hunting as I saw first hand while at Simbambili last year.

To add to what Pred mentioned, in the Western Sabi Sands....all the lodges in the area (Exeter, Ulusaba, Savanna etc etc.,) have a policy where the tracker doesnt EVER get off his tracker seat, regardless of the sighting or the sensitivity of it.....it just makes me lose my respect of the wild for the moment....not real and just didnt feel right!!! Maybe, i'm just used to practices elsewhere, where the tracker jumps in the bk once we locate a lion or whatever....anyway, i guess the animals really are habituated to vehicles.

Hari

Hari,
I don't know about the camps you mentioned, do the trackers set on the hood/bonnet of the vehicle? But I would agree, would not feel right. At Mala the tracker sets in the very back of the vehicle on the highest seat. (A guest may sit back there also). See one of my photos, he is the one in back with the white cap. That is where he stays. Seems like the best place for a tracker. High up, for best view. I have never been on a game drive, at any camp, where the tracker sits on the hood/bonnet. Maybe by his staying high up and back it adds to the sense of danger Maybe that is why some of the SSGR camps are so expensive, they have to pay the tracker a whole lot $$$ to set out there on front.
regards - tom
ps - I hope you are impressed by my use of hood/bonnet. Although I'm USA my personal transportation is Jaguar

FWIW, in looking again at the Nsefu Tena photos I realized I'd left out the one of the hyena pups in den, bummer. So added that one, 17th in from start. Also added one of the landscape, 7th in.
regards - tom

Tom,

yep, most camps including those that have trackers outside the Sabi Sands (like Kwando for example in Bots) have trackers sitting on the hood/bonnet. Their job is to find the spoor/foot prints in the mud so that tracking is possible. Most places, the tracker gets into the back seat once they locate a lion or a leopard or whatever in a safe location away from the animal....however, in the Western Sabi sands they just stay put in the front "tracker seat".

I have been at CCA camps like Phinda in SA and all the Kwando camps in Botswanathat follow the above mentioned system.

I actually hope all camps use a "tracker". It is creating more jobs in the community and also gives IMO a great safari experience to the guests.

Hari

Hi Tom

Knowing that you now have the D200, I was wondering what lenses you used on your recent safari (esp Zambia)?
My wife and I are off to Kaingo/Mwamba + Puku Ridge for 12 nights Sept '07.
I'm taking (at the moment) my D2Hs with the 70-200 VR f/2.8 + 1.7 TC conv, giving 510mm with crop factor and the 17-55 f/2.8.
Just how close did you get to your "glimpes" of Leopards and also those wonderful Carmine Bee Eaters?
Have been thinking about getting the 300 VR f/2.8 prime, but of course baulking at the cost!

Cheers
Marc

Hi Marc,
On my D200 I took only one lens, the new Nikon 18-200mm zoom. (In fact, I have only one other lens for it, Tokina 12-24mm). I do not like to carry 18 lbs of lenses with me, just lazy. And then there can be the problem of sensor dust when changing lens. So the 18-200mm zoom just stayed on the D200, much like a P&S super zoom camera.
If I decided to take TWO lenses, one would be the 70-200 VR 2.8 like you have, and one widesh zoom like a 18-70mm, or yours 17-55mm, even better.
Most, 90%, of the photos I'm posting in this report (part 5, last part, coming real soon) are with it, 18-200mm. The remaining few are from a Canon S2.
I think the lenses you now have will be great. If I had it to do over, I would get the same combo you have. Might do it anyway . Of course, bird photos can use double that mm length.
I did not shoot RAW, did fine, very mild jpgs. Sooooo, EVERY photo needs Photoshop work before "serious" viewing, publishing, or printing. Yes, Every one of the photos here was PhotoShop-ed. This is fun if you enjoy it, as I do.
How close? To the Carmine Bee Eaters about 20 yards. To the glimpse of the leopard also about 20 yards. But the light on the leopard was so bad, night, and it was walking that I did not even try a shot. I hope you have better luck wiht leopards in Zambia than I have had.
regards - tom

Thanks Tom
The Tokina 12-24 is a good choice and has been getting some very good reviews, especially since it's almost half the Nikon's price!
Cheers
Marc

PART 5, end of trip report

Trip Report
SAFARI 2006, Carolyn and Tom, So. Africa, Zambia, Kenya
Little Governors Camp, Kenya, September 21, 22, 23, 24, 25th
Nairobi, September 26, 27th
A few photos at - http://www.kodakgallery.com/tdgraham/main/Little_Governors

Morning of the 19th, after stopping at tribal textiles, we flew from Mfuwe airport to Lusaka, getting into Lusaka early afternoon. But this was too late to catch the Flight to Nairobi so it meant another night at the Holiday Inn. And more problems at the Holiday Inn. The best thing about the Holiday Inn was the buffet breakfast.
The flight from Lusaka to Nairobi is about four hours and we got into Nairobi late afternoon to experience the traffic jammed roads at that time of day on the way to the Norfolk Hotel.. Our Little Governors reservations were being handled by A&K and at the Norfolk their rep Patricia met us. She was wonderful in reviewing our itinerary (which of course we already knew), she gave us our Mara Park daily passes ($40 per day per person) and an A&K safari hat. Then the next morning she was at the Norfolk with an A&K driver to take us to Wilson Airport and got us through check-in quick and easy. They know her at Wilson. It was very nice having Patricia take care of those shuttle, hotel, airport details. She did the same for us coming back from Little Governors and again when we left the Norfolk to fly back home. Thanks Patricia, you and A&K are a class act.

The flight from Nairobi Wilson to the Mara was 40 minutes and we were vehicled over to Little Governors Camp (Lil Gov). The “main” Governors camp is on the airport side of the Mara river but Lil Gov camp is across the river. So from where the vehicles (game drive) stop, you walk down about 40 steps to the river into a small boat and a “boatman” pulls you across the river, maybe 30 meters, you get out and then climb back up those 40 steps. We were assigned tent number 12A. And it was very comfortable, all enclosed in netting, but no electricity. Light at night is by lantern. For charging camera and PC batteries there is a small room just off of the registration office with two large tables and several AC power strips. Electrical power is on 24 hours. Nice set up.

The days events begins with hot drinks and cookies delivered to your tent at 6am. Your game drive starts at 6:30am and last until about 9am. Back at camp a wonderful buffet breakfast is served with eggs/omelets cooked to order. Then another game drive from 10:30am until 12 noon. Lunch is at 1pm with another great buffet spread. Afternoon game drive is at 3:30pm and you come back to camp around 6pm. Dinner is at 8pm. Dinner is from a menu and it was always excellent. The meals at Lil Gov were the best we’ve had at any safari camp, ever. Even beats MalaMala, if you can believe that !!!! At every meal you had your own table and the same waiter. We were seated at our own (little) table. This was ok but I rather preferred the more communal kind at Mala and Nsefu/Tena. Of course I’m sure we could have joined other guest if we had asked. There was a reasonable charge for soft drinks, beer, wine, etc.

The game drives were very good, not up to Mala standards but better than Nsefu/Tena. The vehicle was totally open, driver, then two seat then two more seats. (Both sets of back seats at the same level). But unlike totally open back at Mala and Nsefu/Tena, there were large padded steel tubes up the sides and over the top. This worked out really good because we were allowed to stand up (yes, stand up) in the vehicle at a sighting for a perhaps clearer view and you could use the tubes for camera bracing. The Land Rover had a fixed glass wind shield. So it was next to impossible to shoot directly forward. This really wasn’t much of a problem, only a couple of times. Drives after dark are not permitted in the Mara. I did miss the sundowner ritual but especially missed following a lion pride as they hunt. (Did that at Mala Mala and Nsefu/Tena).

We shared the Land Rover with another couple from England. They are avid nature photographers having been to many wildlife places like the polar bears at Churchill and grizzly bears salmon feeding in Alaska. It was a joy sharing the vehicle with them, we all exactly agreed on what to see and where and when to go. I say “when” to go because when we followed Honey (cheetah) we wanted to see everything, from the start of the hunt to her chasing off vultures and leaving the kill. The lighting for photos over the several days was just ok, too “party cloudy” in general. For many shots I keep looking at the sky trying to cox the sun from behind the edge of a cloud. Late afternoon light suffered from more clouds.

Our first morning game drive we opted for a box breakfast to take with us so we could stay out on the drive from 6:30 until 12 noon. We wanted to go to the Mara to the main migration crossing areas and this requires skipping the camp breakfast. We went but no action at the river. Did see some zebra and wildebeest scattered about. Saw some dead blotted wildebeest in the river. In camp that evening I talked with a manager about finding the cheetah with three cubs. He said the cheetah named “Honey” and her three cubs were on the Lil Gov camp side of the river. But remember, when we go for game drives we boat across the river to the parked Land Rovers. So, it would be necessary to get our Land Rover to the other side and this he would arrange with our guide. I think there is a bridge about an hour or so up river. The next days game drives we say more zebra, wildebeest, a lion pride taking it easy.

The next day our Land Rover was on the camp side of the river (BTW, same side as where the hot air balloons take off) and with box lunch breakfasts we went off looking for Honey. She is no relation to Queen, Princess, Kike of BBC Big Cat Diary fame. After about an hour we found her and her cubs, mainly because there were about eight vehicles around her, including two from the BBC’s Big Cat Diary production. The BBC was there for the month of September. Honey was on a termite mound and her three cubs jostling about around it. Honey had birthed five cubs. If I understood correctly, one died shortly from being too small and one was killed by hyenas. The three cubs were about four months old. Anyway, Honey saw something and walked off, the cubs staying there. After a minute we saw her chasing an antelope about 200 meters away. The cubs started walking that way and we drove over. Honey had made kill but it was in grass just high enough so you couldn’t really see what it was nor a good view of them feeding. Of course we took lots of pictures anyway. After a while vultures started gathering perhaps 30 meters away. Honey and the cubs seemed to finish eating and began to wander about. The vultures started moving it and Honey showed us how she could scare them off. Honey and cubs wandered off so we left them and found a place to have our box breakfast. Everyone was smiling, we were so pleased having seen Honey and her cubs.

That afternoon Carolyn and I skipped the game drive and visited a Maasai village. We paid $20 each and a Maasai guide showed us a few traditional medicine plants, the inside tiny hut, two men made fire using two sticks, a group of about 20 women sang two songs. Then we went into an adjoining coral where the same women had their crafts on display and for sale. The women were from several villages. Carolyn picked out a few small pieces while I tried to find interesting photo subjects. Her chosen pieces were gathered and the school teacher added up the prices on a calculator, $175. Carolyn took away pieces until she had a necklace and bracelet for $35. What a sad contrast to Kawaza village in Zambia. I suppose this Maasai village was supposed to be authentic but why charge $20 to see it and with high prices for trinkets. For ME, it was not one of those “glad I did it once” things, it was “sorry I did it at all”. However, Carolyn says she would go back to the village to take more pictures and observe village life.

The next day we packed box breakfasts and headed again where there might be migration crossing of the Mara. On the way we stopped at a known hyena den and were lucky to find the youngsters outside just mostly waiting for the mom/adults to come back with some treats. We got to the river area and many zebra (100?) and wildebeest (200?) were gathering at the rivers edge. The zebras are the ones that start the crossing and it took them maybe an hour, and one false start, to decide exactly the spot they wanted. Our view of it was ok but because of the shape of the river and its bank at that point we had to be down stream maybe 80 meters. The first few zebras ventured out and crossed but about the seventh one out was taken by a huge crocodile. The wildebeest joined in a steady stream about four across plunging in for several minutes. Some wildebeest did their crazy thing of jumping way up to enter the water. We did not see any other crocs, just the one leisurely chomping on the zebra.

So we had two great game drive days, seeing Honey and her cubs, then the hyenas and the crossing. We saw no leopard. We did see two other cheetahs but not for very long. Lions were mostly sleeping or a couple times feasting on a kill from the previous night. One night we were woken by a scream and pounding hoofs next to our tent. The next day we learned that a buffalo had charged a night guard, the guard screamed and the buffalo turned away. I have heard (saw) that the Mara camp guards and vehicle drivers are not allowed to carry firearms, rifles. Wonder if just a shot in the air could have saved the fellow killed at Richards’s Camp earlier this month?

One more morning game drive, we went back to the hyena den, two cubs came out for a very few minutes, went back in and then nothing for an hour. We caught the plane to Nairobi. Patricia met us at Wilson and had our two duffels taken care of quickly, thanks again Patricia. Back to the Norfolk Hotel for two nights then home.

The Next morning we hired a cab for the day to take us to the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, Giraffe Manor, and Karen Blixen’s estate. We went to Sheldricks for the 11am mud elephant mud bathing and it was great. First the little rhino came in by himself, looked everybody over and took a mud wallow. He was led away and then the nine little orphan eles came in and had a grand time sharing the mud bath. Next was to Giraffe Manor where Carolyn just couldn’t stop feeding the giraffes by hand or twice by mouth. Great fun. Nearby Karen Blixens estate for a nice lunch. We went to the Karen Blixen museum but decided not to bother with going in, so went back to the restaurant bar for a cocktail to relax until about 4:30. At 4:30 we taxied back to Sheldricks to watch the eles come in and go to bed. We had adopted Zurura and Makena and they were happy to meet us. They each have a little open stall and a keeper stays with them all night. I tipped their keepers to be sure the eles had enough to eat and the keepers were most grateful. The next day we went to the Carnivore restaurant and for me it was just an “ok to do it once” experience. That evening Patricia and an A&K van took us to the big airport to catch a KLM flight for home (beautiful southern sunny California).


Safari Summary, September 2006
A day by day itinerary was –

Kruger National Park 3 nights, Mala Mala 4 nights, Nsefu 4 nights, Tena Tena 2 nights, and Little Governors 5 nights.
(And in a format I hope Fodor’s posting will accept-)

Saturday 2-Sep-06
Fly leave LAX 10:38a

Sunday 3-Sep-06
arrive Joburg 9:00p Doves Nest B&B

Monday 4-Sep-06
drive So. Africa Idle & Wilde B&B

Tuesday 5-Sep-06 Kruger
Wednesday 6-Sep-06 Kruger
Thursday 7-Sep-06 Kruger

Friday 8-Sep-06 Kruger-Mala Mala
Drive to MalaMala
Saturday 9-Sep-06 Mala Mala
Sunday 10-Sep-06 Mala Mala
Monday 11-Sep-06 Mala Mala

Tuesday 12-Sep-06 Mala Mala-Jo'burg
Fly 12:30p-1:35p
Fly Jo'burg-Lusaka 6:10p-8:10p Holiday Inn Lusaka

Wednesday 13-Sep-06 Lusaka- Nsefu
Fly 11:30a-12:0p Lusaka -Mfuwe
Thursday 14-Sep-06 Nsefu
Friday 15-Sep-06 Nsefu
Saturday 16-Sep-06 Nsefu
Sunday 17-Sep-06 Tena Tena
Monday 18-Sep-06 Tena Tena

Tuesday 19-Sep-06 Mfuwe-Lusaka
Fly 9:45a-10:55a Holiday Inn
Wednesday 20-Sep-06 Lusak-Nairobi
Fly 12:50a-4:30p Norfolk Hotel

Thursday 21-Sep-06 Nairobi- Mara
Fly 10:00a-10:45a Lit. Gov. Camp
Friday 22-Sep-06 Lit. Gov. Camp
Saturday 23-Sep-06 Lit. Gov. Camp
Sunday 24-Sep-06 Lit. Gov. Camp
Monday 25-Sep-06 Lit. Gov .Camp

Tuesday 26-Sep-06 Mara-Nairobi
Fly 11:00a-12:15p Norfolk Hotel
Wednesday 27-Sep-06 Norfolk

Thursday 28-Sep-06 leave Nairobi
Fly 10:00p
Friday 29-Sep-06 arrive LAX
2:10p Home

Total of 18 nights in five safari camps

We were on 14 (fourteen) different airplanes. Six just going and returning from Africa and then eight inside Africa.
Just for the record, for reference, I’m not bragging nor complaining, the above safari cost $9,600 per person. This cost includes the cost of care hire and Kruger camps. And the cost of tips for camp staff. But does not include the cost of flying to and from Africa.

In 2005 we had 12 nights of safari camp and this year planned for 15 nights. But then added 3 nights at Kruger, so 18 total. Eighteen camp nights were a little bit too many. We both agree that 13 or 14, would have been good. It’s just that when you fly for so long and so costly to get there, you really want to do a lot.

Our favorite safari camp – Mala Mala. Like I said before, if Mala is one of the camps you are going to, go to it last. All three countries were beautiful. Mala’s Sabi River, the bush and varied terrain and bush is wonderful. Nsefu/Tena’s location on the Luangwa river and the surrounding open fields with tree lines and the old flat river bed with antelope grazing is wonderful. The flat vast grassy open plain of the Mara is wonderful. I’ll take any of it anytime.
Regards - tom

Tom,

Nice report from Little Governors'. Lots of luck with "Honey" and her cubs and the kill.....

From memory, from my visit in 2002....i did the boxed breakfasts also instead of returning to breakfast and heading out again for another short mid-morning drive. But during that time, the prime areas for gameviewing was very close to camp, including the herds......

Thanks for sharing.......

Hari

Thanks Hari,
It took us maybe 2 hours to find Honey so we were very excited just to see her and her cubs. But then, she took off hunting, made the kill and we could not believe our luck. Got to have some occasionally I guess. Of course I kept wanting better light, it was mostly cloudy as you can tell from the flat photos. But you know me and lighting, I gotta have it all
regards - tom

Great report and photos, Tom. Thanks for sharing!

cary999

For all you did, I think you should be bragging about the cost.

nice report tom, really enjoyed it! I'll have to look into Kruger for an economical way to extend time in Africa. Sounds like you enjoyed it all!
Thanks,
Dennis

Thanks all.
Yes we enjoyed Kruger for what it is. And like you say (I said) for $100 per person per day sharing (remember a hut for two is only $70 day) it is good way to start the trip. In fact that is what I'm trying now to work up for 2007. Starting again at Kruger and then up to a Sabi Sand private camp and that's all. No flying to Kenya or whatever. Looking at other camps around Kruger, for less $$$$ than Mala. Any recommendations? Anyone know about Kings Camp? I'm searching Fodor archives but any short cuts to reports appreciated.
regards - tom

Re: Kings Camp. Never been but I had a travel agent tell me this about Kings Camp in Timbavati. Every guest that comes back just raves about the camp and the experience even more so than other places.

Yes, there was a recent trip report from Kings Camp, where the poster had visited for a second time. I can't remember who.....but, just do a search for Kings camp.....

Hari

Well done Tom! What an adventure, 14 flights ...you covered major territory. I must say you and Carolyn are THE "cub magnets", love those little lion, cheetah and hyenas cubs. Can't wait to see the videos of the Nsefu lion cubs. Carolyn was a brave soul walking to Tena Tena.

I would love to visit Mala Mala (maybe for 5 days) and also try a permanent tented camp (for my first time) for 3-4 days, but would save MM for last per your suggestion. My last trip was a total of 10 flights which was too many for my liking.

I forgot you were going to Sheldrick, how wonderful! Makena...what a doll!

You are going to have a great DVD with the photos, sounds and videos. Great trip, will be anxious to hear what you have in the works.

Tom,

What's up next? Will you return to Africa?

Tom,
Forgot to mention that my dental hygienist will be staying at Kings Camp in Mar 07, will be anxious to hear her thoughts.

If you want to see the cutest little leopard cub photo, click here...

http://www.kingscamp.com/frame_profile.htm

Thanks Carla, flattery will get you anything
Will I return to Africa? Well, even now after just getting back, the only travel that interests me is Africa. (This doesn't count local trips to Las Vegas and Yosemite ). At this moment we are looking at toning it down a bit next year. My sister is very interested in going (first time Africa). Am looking at us (three) going to Kruger for 5 nights then to Kings Camp for 5 nights. Carolyn and my sister would then fly home but I just have to go to Mala so I would go over to Mala (short hop) for 5 more nights then fly home. The Kruger and Kings Camp parts and air to/from Joburg would be $4,000 or so per person. Half of that is air.
Going to start on the DVD tomorrow, got lots of photos and video clips to wade through. Don't want it any longer than 30-40 minutes. I won't use any, not one, photo from last year so it will be interesting to see how different it is.
regards - tom

Tom, a copy of your DVD will suffice, thanks!

Your tentative plans for SA next year sound terrific.

Glad you mentioned Yosemite, I am interested in planning a long weekend trip there. What time of year is best and what's the best lodge IYO?

Tom - that is some itineary!!! Your photographs are outstanding. My favorites being the Eagle Owl, Carmine Bee Eaters in flight, the night shot of the porcupine and the baby hyenas.

I just returned from Zambia a few days ago and got a fair shot of an Eagle Owl, but I could not coax him out of the shadows. Mine (which I will post)looks like a cartoon compared to your crystal clear photo.

Thanks GD,
The Eagle Owl shot was a surprise to me, grabbed it on the go. When I finally saw it on PC, looked real good. BTW, was not taken with my wonderful new Nikon D200 but with my "old" Canon S2!! If you get bored, go back and look at the photo next to it I just put up. (Nsefu Tena camp album). Tweaked that owl some, hope it doesn't mind .
That porcupine was amazing, paid us no attention. Usually they run and hide. Wish I could have got a shot of baby hyenas out on their den entry.
regards - tom

Carla,
I'm not much of an expert on Yosemite. Only have gone up about once every four years. Yet it is an easy drive for us, about 6 hours mostly on interstate. But after last May I decided gotta go a lot more often. I'd go anytime except for the summer, family vacations. The fall colors are gone by now I'd think. Winter can be great but it has its own challenges. I guess next spring. As for lodging, boy, they have everything and anything as you know. My choice is "Yosemite Lodge at the Falls". It has all the comforts I'm used to.
regards - tom

Tom,
You must be a very patient or extremely lucky and quick man to catch so many birds in flight - outstanding!

Although I loved all your pictures, the ones that really caught my eye were the cubs - you saw so many. I like that you included the best of the best and do hope you'll add more.
Thanks for posting your great report with your killer itinerary - most envious!
Sherry

Tom - Adding blue to the sky really enhances the eagle owl shot. nappamat's Martial Eagle shot is my current screen saver and I may have to rotate this shot in as my next screen saver.

Sherry - yeah, was sort of a killer itinerary, probably that's why next year we are cutting back a bunch The Bee Eaters, not just one photo, in the title I say it is 4 photos that have been combined, PhotoShop. Started with one photo that had the birds on the ground a couple in the air then added birds in the air from three other photos. Guess this is really not a "fair" thing to do for a nature picture but I wanted to show how those birdies just fly constantly all over. Still really doesn't show the brilliant colors of the birds though.
GD - a blue sky in the photo is natural. You can see from the lighting on the owl the strong sunlight so likely a clear sky. As typical with such photos, sky just gets washed out to white because of the owl in the shade/backlit. So, works naturally to add the sky, just has to be done carefully. Well, you ceratinly do need another Eagle Owl screen saver
regards - tom

Tom,

Better rush to Mala Mala soon......the wild dogs are making an appearence....i think Napamatt just posted this info on another thread.....

Hari

I know, I know, I saw that !!!! Just got my flight reservatons and I'm on the phone now with Mala reservations about the next two weeks there. Well, I can dream, can't I???
regards - tom
ps - time for a trip to Las Vegas - COME ON 7, daddy needs a trip to MalaMala!!!!

This post only to update the location of this safari's photos.
Sorry, nothing else new to add/report, same report from October 2006. I wish I could edit the report and make such changes to it without having to top it this way. But, anyway, the original report has photos located in Kodak gallery. I have since moved them to the SmugMug gallery. Why? Because at Kodak the only photo color background is white while at SmugMug you have a choice and I like black. SmugMug also lets you put up larger images and fancy-up your title page and such. Anyway address for photos is now -
http://tomgraham.smugmug.com

regards - tom

Well, I'm glad you topped this off - I missed your 2007 photos entirely. WOW! is all I can say. You got so many fabulous photos and were blessed with some really nice light. I really can't point to any favorites - too many. But I'm always a sucker for cats - the lioness and her little cubs were just outstanding.

All without shooting in raw mode...