I haven't read this yet because I must get to work - but - welcome back!!!!!! (And sorry this year's adventure has come to an end....)

Hi Rocco,

Keep it coming!

I'm curious as to why you'd endorse Chiawa over Kasaka and Chongwe when you had such great experiences at the latter camps -- what did you see there that makes you recommend it? I don't know about you, but I'd choose great camp atmosphere over luxury any day, and it sounds like the camp atmosphere at the two camps you visited would be hard to beat.

Cheers,
Julian

Sounds like an amazing trip and all of your planning paid off. Welcome home -- the boards haven't been the same without you!

Welcome Home.

More, more.

Welcome back Roccco. I have a full schedule at work today so probably can't read until tonight. Looking forward to it!

Cindy

Julian,

To answer your question about my choice of Lower Zambezi lodges...

While I really enjoyed Kasaka and Chongwe, the bottom line is that it is quite a distance from Kasaka to the entrance of the national park, and the game does not really start happening until the Chongwe River, which is about 15 minutes from the park. This does make Chongwe Camp about twice as close to the entrance.

It seemed like most of the game drives at each Kasaka and Chongwe seemed to favor the area nearer to Chiawa Camp, a good 1 hour 15 minutes from Kasaka, and a good 1 hour from Chongwe. So, if one is staying at Chiawa, they are already right in this prime area to start their game drives.

It is up to the individual traveler to decide whether or not a bit more luxury and being in a prime part of the park justify the extra money. However, considering that I just stayed at an awesome lodge, Simbambili, for about $750 per person per night less than it would cost for Singita or Londolozi Tree, the extra $175 per person per night that it would cost to upgrade from Kasaka or Chongwe to Chiawa seems insignificant. This is 1/4 as expensive as the upgrade from Simbambili to Singita / Londo Tree would cost a traveler.

Plus, it is worth noting that there is very high turnover at some of the camps. Just because the camps have a certain staff this year, is no guarantee that the same staff will be around next year. Trust me, I think for a person who loves canoeing through interesting narrow channels, that the guide, Morat, would have been worth justifying a visit to Kulefu. Yet, had a traveler booked Kulefu in hopes of canoeing with Morat, they would have been very disappointed to learn that he has since moved to Kasaka. Trust me, these are dangerous narrow waterways full of hippos and crocs, and one better have an experienced canoe guide such as Morat, who spent EIGHT years at Kulefu if they hope to make it through those waterways in one piece.

So, the things that may be counted on are the ownership of the camp, the location of the camp and the camp facilities. In Chiawa's case, the owner, Grant Cumings, is the ORIGINAL operator in the Lower Zambezi, located in the spot of his own picking before a dozen or more others moved in later.

I do think a combo of Kasaka / Chiawa or Chongwe / Chiawa would be excellent, but if there is only time to visit one camp, and the traveler may afford to spend a little extra, then Chiawa is the way to go, in my honest opinion.

Welcome back. I know what you mean about the paradox of such a peaceful sleep in nature-noisy surroundings.

I bet you were indeed stressed arriving with only an hour for an international flight.

Thanks for the quick posting--looking forward to more.

Hi Rocco,

Thanks for the clarification. I thought Chiawa was a lot more than Chongwe (about $330 more per night in July) but those numbers are from e-gnu and probably don't represent the best rates.

Looking forward to the rest of your report!

Cheers,
Julian

Rocco - thanks for the e-mail. I'll get back to you shortly!

Julian,

Overall Chiawa may be $330 per night for a COUPLE sharing, but even so, this is minor compared to, for example, the difference between Simbambili, which I thought was fantastic, and Singita. Yes, Singita is awesome, but it is not within grasp for most people, including myself at its current tariff and the current exchange rate.

Okay, here come 75 photos to start out. These are completely unedited and I don't think I will take the time to edit any of my photos that I post online. It will take me many weeks to learn Photoshop ELements sufficiently to improve my photos instead of screwing them up.

I too am busy at work today (finally!), and can't wait to get home to really pore over this.

But for now, I'm still reeling over four bottles of wine in one evening. Good lord, man, you could handle a game drive the next day?!

Great to read the beginning of your report. I CAN'T BELIEVE 19 days have already passed!

Thank you for the quick start to the report. Can't wait to hear more!

Sounds like a great start to the trip...

Rocco:

So very glad you had a fantastic trip. Can't wait to read more and see your pictures.

Welcome home. You were missed!

Jan

Welcome back, Rocco!

Thanks for the warm homecoming.

About those four bottles of wine...well, you see how PETITE I am in my photos, right? Well, Hugo at Kasaka is even slightly more petite than I am!

So, between our quarter ton, it wasn't as bad as it sounds. Each year I overindulge once, and this was my time. I don't think I had more than two drinks at one sitting for the rest of the holiday.

Just one clarification, from this or another post...I slept heavenly at Chongwe but actually had difficulty at Kasaka, my first stop, probably due to jet lag.

Welcome back Rocco! We leave tomorrow.

Welcome home Rocco (and Alexsandra) - sounds like a good trip.
Looking forward to reading more and seeing the pics!

Welcome home! I'm sure the dogs are thrilled to see you both. I know that when we go away we begin to miss our dog almost immediately and the longer we're gone the worse it gets! 4-5 weeks is about the max and as the pooch gets older it's only going to get worse.

Looking forward to hearing more.

Finally got home last night around 6:30PM...total travel time once leaving Simbambili in the Sabi Sand...about 40 hours including 8 hour layover in Joburg and 5 hour layover in London.

The business class flight from Joburg to London was not so great, just marginally better than my economy class flight from London to Los Angeles. I would say that SAA has definitely gone downhill since last year, at least in Business Class.

To make matters worse, my wife and I were not even seated together, but rather separated by a couple seats. When I politely asked a white Zimbabwean man, who was about five years my senior, if he would mind swapping seats with me (putting him directly to the left of his wife, rather than the right of his wife), he threw a little hissy fit and for a moment I thought things may get ugly. I mean what should have been a, "Sure, no problem", was a major ordeal and instead of just moving over a seat he proceeded to also move all of his overhead luggage, despite the fact that he had only moved two seats to his left. While I closely watched him putting on his little display, he then tried to save face by blaming it on the airline, as did his wife, telling me that I should insist that they move me up to First Class for such inconvenience. Whatever.

Economy class from London to L.A. was as pleasant as possible, probably only about 50% full, allowing my wife and I the four middle seats.

My dogs were thrilled to see me, as was I to see them. After calling Land Rover Roadside Assistance to get my dead battery charged, I made my way to my favorite local Mexican restaurant and picked up some long overdue Mexican food, falling asleep each on the way to the restaurant (10 minutes from home), and on the way back from the restaurant, narrowly missing from smashing into one of my neighbors parked vehicles.

Home sweet home!

Looking forward to full report and hundreds of photos.

I'm surprised to read your review of SAA Biz Class since that's what I'm in next year. I hope they improve.

Hi Rocco,

If you go business class to Africa next year, try Virgin's Upper Class -- I know the economy class was a pain in arse because of the weight restrictions, but their Upper Class is brilliant.

Cheers,
Julian

LUANGWA RIVER LODGE

On the morning of September 07th, Alexsandra and I caught a chartered flight that took us direct from Lower Zambezi to Mfuwe for our six night stay in South Luangwa.

Quite honestly, I had such a wonderful time in the Lower Zambezi at each Kasaka and Chongwe that I was really sad to be leaving. I mean even sleeping at Chongwe was an amazing experience...one second we were scared of all the wildlife sounds that were taking place not far from our tents, and then the next moment came the most deep and restful sleep imaginable, without ever realizing when the switch came from being scared to being sound asleep.

But, all good things must come to an end, or so it is said, and after having to literally be pushed out the door at Chongwe, we boarded a scheduled 11AM chartered flight at around 11:20AM and made our way to Mfuwe (pronounced, as I would finally learn on my 3rd visit, Em-fooey, not Ma-fooey).

It was a slighly bumpy ride on a Proflight Cessna 206 but the pilot exuded confidence and this helped Alexsandra deal with the turbulence.

We arrived at Mfuwe at about 1:15PM and were met at the airport by two Luangwa River Lodge guides, Victor and James.

Alexsandra, before I even realized what was happening, proceeded to buy about $65 USD worth of cooking oil, food and other goods from a merchant at the airport. This was to hand out to the locals in Mfuwe. Keep in mind that Zambia is one of the poorest nations in the world, although I imagine that the residents of Mfuwe are better off than in most parts of Zambia.

As we exited the airport I saw two shiny red bicycles that were purchased at my direction by Barry at Luangwa River Lodge. The reason for this was twofold.

One, so that I could ride a bicycle through the streets of Mfuwe, as the local Zambians do (when one goes from Mfuwe Airport to South Luangwa National Park, they are treated to real life Africa for about 20 miles before entering the park, rather than being insulated from real Africa as is the case in other parts of Southern Africa).

Two, I was donating the bicycles to the South Luangwa Conservation Society to use however best served them. SLCS is a privately funded organization that combats poaching and helps wildlife in other ways as well.

The reason for the two bikes was so that either one of the guides or Alexsandra would be able to ride alongside me. However, I turned out to be stuck on my own riding a bicycle, and this at the hottest part of the day. I estimate it was about 95 degrees farenheit.

Starting from the airport, I bicycled for about 75 minutes. Along the way I passed hundreds of amused looking Zambians, and learned quickly how to say hello in their local language.

"Bwanjee" (sp.?) I shouted to mostly children on the roadside who had raced out to see the fat American riding through their streets. This was responded to with "Bwen Bwanjee" in most cases, and often with "How Are You?" which must be the first (and one of the only) English phrase taught to children.

Occasionally, young Zambian men (late teens to early 20's) with too much testosterone would race by me on their bicycles and look back to see if I was racing to keep up with them. There would be no race from me, as I only wanted to go as far as I possibly could and this required a moderate pace.

Regretably, this was my first physical activity in weeks and between the afternoon heat and a very uncomfortable bicycle seat, I only made it about halfway. Once coming across a store that read in big letters "Game Over", I thought it most appropriate to end my bicycle journey through the streets of Mfuwe.

Regretably my support vehicle had been hijacked by Alexsandra and I had to wait about five minutes before it finally showed up to provide me with a well earned cold Fanta Orange soda.

From Game Over, it was only about a 20 minute ride in the Land Cruiser to Luangwa River Lodge, and we arrived just after 3PM to be greeted by Tara and Clem (a Scottish? young woman who runs the kitchen), complete with a wonderful welcoming drink.

After awhile, Barry emerged from working on one of the vehicles and after I cleaned myself up a bit in the wonderful room, Barry and I went off for an evening game drive (Alexsandra choosing to sit this one out).

Despite Luangwa River Lodge being in a somewhat congested area, the game drives all seemed to be in less congested areas, rather than competing with the masses. So, we were all by ourselves following our sundowners when we came across a leopard on the ground who was on the move.

We followed this leopard for about five minutes, yet we were not sure what it was stalking, as we saw nothing. Then, while we were not even looking, we heard a shrill cry, and then the next thing we know, the leopard has a small puku by the neck, assumedly already dead.

Not more than 30 seconds pass, when first one, then two, then three, and altogether five hyenas, within a couple minutes descend on this leopard in an attempt to steal the kill. By the time the first hyena had made it on the scene (within that first minute after the kill), the leopard was fortunate enough to drag the kill up a tree.

The hyenas all circled the tree, but after only a couple minutes they each left the scene, apparently having conceded that there was no way that they would be able to get to the kill.

Shortly after the kill, another vehicle from a competing lodge joined the scene. Because the tree was about 50 yards off the road, it was a bit difficult to see the leopard and especially the kill. South Luangwa NP has a strict policy against off-road driving, and it seems that the lodges are all to quick to report any abuses of this policy, so once the other game vehicle was on the spot, there was no chance to get a closer look, as the guide would be fined about $400 USD for a first offence (more than many Zambians earn in a year) and lose his guiding license for a second offense.

We returned to the lodge to a fantastic dinner. I cannot tell you what it was (I don't remember) but I will say that each and every meal at Luangwa River Lodge appears as if it is right out of the most expensive restaurant that you likely ever dine. Both the food and the presentation is top notch.

Yes, luxury game lodge food is mostly very good, but this was not typical game lodge food but rather it was at another level, altogether.

Luangwa River Lodge is an incredibly beautiful lodge. Everything is meticulous in each the common areas of the lodge and the individual suites (each room is a suite, but I just think they are too nice at LRL to be referred to as a room or a chalet). Rather than trying to explain the decor, I will post photos soon enough.

On my second day at Luangwa River Lodge, we made a special trip to South Luangwa Conservation Society so that I may donate the two bicycles. It was my honor to make a donation to such an excellent organization.

Afterward, we ventured down to Chipembele, another excellent private organization run by two former British police officers, Steve and Anna Dolan.

http://www.chipembele.org/

Chipembele provides Zambian children with conservation education as well as offering scholarships to Zambian students for each their primary and secondary education.

Alexsandra and I were shown all around and it really is an excellent venue.

Onsite were Chipembele's rescued warthogs, Roxy and Robert, whom serve as pets, as well as their Jack Russell, Bulu, who survived a lion attack and five days afterward in the bush with the worst imaginable wounds. Fortunately, however, Bulu was found just in the nick of time and survived each the lion attack and some intensive surgery. Now, Bulu is back at full strength and is basically the brother of the warthogs.

After making a donation to Chipembele and enjoying our sundowners with Steve and Anna on their patio, we left at around 7PM to get in a very abbreviated night game drive before making our way back to Luangwa River Lodge for dinner.

Day 3 at Luangwa River Lodge was an all day drive into the Nsefu Sector beginning at 6:30AM and returning to Luangwa River Lodge at 7PM. Alexsandra sat this one out and it was just James, Fenwill (the spotter) and I.

Although there were some long stretches where we did not see much and some upsetting stretches, such as when I saw a hunting hide not more than 2 miles away from Tena Tena, there were also rewarding stretches with plenty of birdlife, lions and even an elusive Cookson's Wildebeest.

At around 11:30AM we stopped for our picnic brunch, enjoying chicken, salad, fresh baked bread and a fresh baked cake. Afterward, James asked if it was okay if he took a 30 minute break and I agreed that was a good idea, but instead I allowed for about a 90 minute doze under a sausage tree overlooking the Luangwa River in a spot full of hippos and crocs.

I really enjoyed this all day private game drive but did arrive back to the lodge, understandably exhausted. Although another guest had checked in, a single female American traveler the same age or possibly even younger than Alexsandra and I, we chose to enjoy a private dinner in our room, on this our final night.

The next morning, I had breakfast witht he American woman before we made off on our morning game drive. We came across a kill right at the onset of our game drive, but the lions had already had their fill of the buffalo and now it was in the hands of the hyenas and the vultures. Fortunately the kill was right off the roadside, allowing for a partially obstructed view.

Shortly afterward, we were able to find an older male lion. His age was obvious from his scarred face and whittled away black mane. Still, a male lion is, for me, always an impressive sighting.

Afterward, it was one final brunch at Luangwa River Lodge before our 75 minute road transfer to Puku Ridge.

I really enjoyed Luangwa River Lodge and I think someone would be hard pressed to find better accomodations, better food and better hosting than at Luangwa River Lodge. Also, Alexsandra and I really liked their head guide, Victor, who despite having less than one year experience as a guide, does have 15 years with ZAWA (Zambian Wildlife Authority) under his belt.

Also, I thought the other guide, James, was very good. Having come over from Tena Tena, he does know the Nsefu sector like the back of his hand. The spotter, Fenwell, is also very good with a great personality. Hopefully he will earn his guiding license soon as I believe he will one day make a great guide.

On deck...PUKU RIDGE

Welcome Back Rocco and Alexsandra! I am so glad you convinced me to stay at Luangwa River Lodge! A million thanks! From yours and sandyca's reports, it sounds like an awesome place and I can't wait to get there!
(25 more days!!)
Dennis

Wow Roccco this is great! I can't wait to go check out those photos and read the rest of your recap.

Welcome home!

Welcome back and thanks for jumping on your trip report so quickly!

He started this report while still on safari; that's a champ!

I'm enjoying this very much. Particularly liked the biking story.

Best to you and Alexsandra.

Thanks for giving the details on the bike ride. What a great idea that is! Someday I'd love to try it.

That was an exciting leopard encounter.

Interesting you'd mention hunting hides near Tena. In 2003 when I was there, in the middle of one night, I heard a gunshot and someone shouting, "Freeze!" Even in my drowsy state I thought to myself, "Why are they shouting in English?"

The next day I learned that the rangers had captured a poacher and the shot was a warning shot. I was informed that freeze is what is used by law enforcement in Zambia.

Keep them coming. Great reading. Was Alexsandra able to get into any of the kitchens while on safari. Do tell. And what did she prepare for dinner?

Sandi,

The only lodge/camp that managed to keep Alexsandra OUT of the kitchen was Simbambili. This is both a testament to their great food and to their ready availability to some pretty amazing fresh fruit such as guava fruit, pineapples, papayas and star fruit.

Alexsandra made herself right at home in the kitchen, especially at Kasaka and Luangwa River Lodge, but this is definitely not a knock on their food, but more a compliment that they were each flexible enough to allow Alexsandra access.

The only place that she seemed to be a person non-grata (sp.?) in the kitchen was at Puku Ridge, and that is a shame because it was here that needed her the most!

And that reminds me...I really need to get to the grocery store. I haven't been to the supermarket in FOUR weeks and I actually found myself eating my housekeeper's ice cream last night!

Rocco, thanks for sharing the highlights from your amazing trip. Your pictures were wonderful, too. Welcome back and I look foward to reading more.

atravelynn,

It is unfortunate that wherever there are national parks in Africa, Kenya excepted, that there seems to always be hunting concessions bordering the national parks and all to eager to lure the animals outside of their sanctuary within the national park.

Now with the hunting hide near Tena Tena that I am talking about, it was not poaching, but this elaborate huge elevated hunting hide for trophy hunting. I will post a photo this weekend of the hunting hide.

Trust me, I wanted to take a match and some gasoline and burn it down, yet at the same time I did not want some hunter to shoot me in the back.

It is too bad that there is not more animosity between the ecotourism photosafari lodges and the safari operators. James, my guide at Luangwa River Lodge, who spent the last few years at Tena Tena basically said that they just try to avoid each other. I suppose this is why camps/lodges that are in the GMA's seem to head straight to the national park for their game drives.

One thing that saddens me is that one of my guides in the Lower Zambezi told me that his brother works as a professional hunter (which is the equivalent as a guide at a photo safari lodge since the PH's do not actually take the shot but instead accompany the paying trophy hunter). While his brother will easily net a couple hundred dollars a day in gratuities, a guide at an ecotourism lodge will be lucky to get that much in a week. For that reason I try to tip as much as I possibly can without going overboard.

Anyway, the best thing to do is to continue supporting photosafari lodges, especially in areas where hunting is not too far away. If successful enough, these photosafari lodges may then eventually take over the entire area, as has happened in Botswana with I believe Chitabe this season which formerly shared its concession with a hunting lodge up until last year. Same thing at Phinda in South Africa, which recently bought out the hunting concession known as Zuka.

But as much as I hate the practice as trophy hunting and those sick individuals who engage in it, I still believe that the areas are best served by trophy hunting until a photosafari lodge is able to take control of the area. At least the trophy hunters keep the poachers away while if the areas were totally exposed, the poachers would do far more damage to the area if it was totally unprotected.

Just one interesting thing I read while at the London Heathrow Airport.

In this month's UK edition of Conde Nast Traveler, the top 100 places in the world are ranked and Ngorongoro Crater Lodge was #2 hotel/lodge in the world, after only some place in Venice, Italy. Singita was rated #3.

Best Hotel in South Africa, and #6 overall in Africa/Middle East was the Twelve Apostles Hotel, which ranked a couple places higher than Ellerman House and quite a few places higher than each the Cape Grace and the Table Bay Hotel. Alexsandra and I, again, really enjoyed our stay at the Twelve Apostles and found the staff to be its usual excellent selves. The staff to guest ratio at the Twelve Apostles is better than I have seen at any other hotel, but I will save anything more for my trip report...just wanted to report about the UK Conde Nast Traveler before it forever slipped my mind.

Thanks for all of the wonderful detail.

PUKU RIDGE - Sept 10th to Sept 12th - 3 nights

Our transfer to Puku Ridge was at High Noon. Although it was pretty warm, it was not unbearable. It took about 90 minutes for the transfer and we were driven deep into the park, arriving at Puku Ridge at around 1:30PM.

Upon arrival at Puku Ridge, the manager of the camp, Angie, a white Zimbabwean woman in her early 30's who came over from Jao (Wilderness Safaris), welcomed us, along with other Puku Ridge staff on hand for the welcoming, with a nice cold Rock Shandy drink.

Puku Ridge, in my opinion, has the single best location of any camp I have yet seen of any camp/lodge in South Luangwa. It is halfway up Chichele Hill and overlooks a sizeable plain on one side and Chichele Hill on the other side.

On the plain, day and night, are hundreds of baboons, impala and puku, along with occasional elephants. Other visitors on the plain during our stay included lions on two occasions and a leopard.

The accomodations at Puku Ridge are huge oversized tents, measuring 800+ sq. ft. Within our tent were very nice antique furnishings, a king sized four poster bed with mosquito netting, a sunken bath with a wonderful view of the plain and electricity in the room.

Just outside the tent is an oversized balcony that extends the length of the tent and connects on the side to an outdoor shower.

Our tent was the "Leopard" tent and is considered the honeymoon suite, offering nice privacy, but also being the furthest away from the common area, making nighttime walks back to the tent a bit unnerving.

In camp during our arrival were about seven other guests, all male tobacco farmers, mostly from Malawi. This was their final night, and we would have the camp to ourselves for our final two night. However, since there were so many of them, they had their own vehicle, meaning that we had our own private vehicle for the length of our stay.

Dinner on our first night was a very nice braai that included steak, chicken, baked potatos, corn on the cob, salad and other goodies. This was a pretty good dinner, but nothing to die over. Even so, it would prove to be the best meal of the stay, as food is not a strong point of Puku Ridge.

Despite the less than stellar food, Puku Ridge proved to be the best of the four Zambian camps/lodges visited on this safari. Lions were seen on nearly every game drive and leopards were seen on a couple occasions.

I loved sleeping at Puku Ridge. It gets very windy at night and the canvas part of the tent remained open while the clearer screen part of the tent remained zipped. This allowed for the wind to gust through our tent each night, blowing around our mosquito netting and making sleeping very comfortable.

Lions were heard each night from our tent and were also spotted in the morning on a couple occasions, giving a wonderful way to start the game drives. This was the only of the four camps I visited within the national park and that does make a big difference to the game drives.

While gameviewing was great at Puku Ridge, the Tetse Flies were pretty bad. I am still recovering from all the bites I received (that then itch so bad that during the scratching more damage is then caused to the skin).

The game drive vehicles at Puku Ridge are a bit unusual. They feature bucket seats, which in themselves are not so bad, but then instead of a middle seat, there is a padded storage container. It did not make for the most comfortable seating in the back for night game drives.

However, the morning game drives were more pleasant. Alexsandra only went on a couple morning drives, but none while at Puku Ridge. Therefore, with no necessary spotter during morning drives, I sat upfront beside the guide. The vehicles featured no side doors (as was also the case at Chongwe River Camp).

The doorless vehicle made for some intense game drives with lions walking not more than six feet beside the vehicle. While we put ourselves right in the thick of the action, there was another vehicle, from Nkwali (Robin Pope Safaris), I believe, that never dared to get within 15 yards of the lions (as you will see in one of my photos).

The only other vehicles we came across at Puku Ridge were from the sister lodge, Chichele, and from Nkwali (Robin Pope Safaris) and Kafunta. However, only Chichele was also located within the national park. Since all vehicles from camps/lodges outside the GMA are required to be out of the park by 8PM, for the last 45 minutes of the drives, we were always the last ones in the park, as well as always having the beginning of our drives with no other vehicles.

I found the visitors at Chichele and Puku Ridge to be much more down to earth in their appearance than the visitors to Robin Pope Safaris. At both RPS and Norman Carr Safaris, I found that the visitors nearly always were in their smart safari clothes, were more often than not older, and they seemed to be more dry than the visitors I came across from some of the other camps.

A few more words about Puku Ridge. I consider it to be this kind of masculine chic. It has this great swimming pool overlooking the plain and an attached jacuzzi (though unheated). The camp really tries to blend in with the environment rather than trying to separate itself from the environment.

During each our stay at Kasaka and Chongwe River Camp, Alexsandra was told about this great jewelry store in Lusaka. After seeing the jewelry (Tanzanites) that the female managers at Kasaka and Chongwe were sporting on their fingers, Alexsandra REALLY wanted to get to Lusaka...so much, in fact, that on our final full day at Chongwe River Camp that she actually wanted me to fly into Lusaka with her, never mind that this would have cost $200 pp plus cab fare and would have cost us our activities for the day.

When I turned down her request and after she got done stamping her feet, we made a plan to dash into Lusaka during our 4 hour layover in Lusaka after Puku Ridge.

Although I enjoyed Puku Ridge, I was not going to miss the Tetse Flies (or the food). Our flight from Mfuwe to Lusaka was scheduled for 9:30, meaning that we had to leave the lodge by 7:30AM. We would be in Cape Town at the wonderful Twelve Apostles Hotels by 9PM that night, after a flight to Lusaka to Joburg to Cape Town.

We arrived to the airport in ample time, and waited, and waited and waited for an Airwaves flight that never came!

ON DECK - Inter-Continental Hotel, Lusaka.

Correction...

>>>Despite the less than stellar food, Puku Ridge proved to be the best of the four Zambian camps/lodges visited on this safari. Lions were seen on nearly every game drive and leopards were seen on a couple occasions.<<<

What I meant to say that Puku Ridge was the best of the four for gameviewing since it was located within the national park.

Did you get any Airwaves explanation about why the flight was a no-show? How annoying.

It had been my impression that Airwaves was pretty reliable. Or have I just been lucky?

I hope Airwaves does not turn into an Air Botswana where (at least when I was there in August) the mere mention of those two words would bring reactions from travelers ranging from anger to head shaking disgust. Having missed my first night on safari due to Air Botswana's delays and rerouting, I concur.

But enough about that airline, what happened to yours?

Atravelynn,

I, too, had been under the prior assumption that Airwaves had been a reliable company. However, I was told by both people in the industry and by one of Airwaves OWN pilots that Airwaves was far from reliable.

However, when the director (and possible owner or part owner) of the company also owns the most successful operation in South Luangwa, no matter how bad it is, Airwaves is going to get its fill of passengers:

http://www.e-gnu.com/forum/messages/895.html

Also, it should be known by potential visitors that Airwaves planes are registered in South Africa. What that means is that Airwaves planes are NOT even serviced in Zambia, but rather are returned to South Africa every 1,000 hours of flying time.

In comparison, I flew on Proflight, and the pilot told me that their planes are registered in Zambia and are serviced twice as often, every 500 hours.

And, accidents will happen, and quite a tragic one did happen last year:

http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2004/09/10/1094789682367.html?from=storylhs

There are plenty of other options for flights, however, such as Zambian Airways, Proflight and Avocet, although this is NOT an endorsement of any of those companies.

I will write more about my own experience with Airwaves as my trip report continues.

INTER-CONTINENTAL HOTEL, LUSAKA

So we are dropped off by our Puku RIdge guide. Unfortunately, I don't even remember his name, and I think this is because he wsa probably the least personal of the guides I had on this trip and after spending my first day with him, they then had him guide some guests from Chichele and then returned him to my for the final day...not the best way to make a guest feel as if they are being well looked after.

So, there we are waiting for the flight. Alexsandra by now has already been in contact with the jeweler in Lusaka to make arrangements for a quick meeting at his factory.

http://www.gemstonesafrica.com/

However, after our flight is more than one hour delayed, although there is never any explanation from Airwaves on what is happening--their people at the counter said they had no idea why or flight wasn't present--we start growing frantic. After a few more minutes, with regret and anger for Airwaves, we call our jeweler in Lusaka to cancel our proposed meeting.

This especially makes me angry, because, really, Alexsandra does not come to Africa because she loves Africa, but rather she does it to help me fulfill my passion. Now, I was not even able to repay the favor by getting her something nice from Zambia?
Not too cool.

The departure gate at Mfuwe fills with people, empties with people, fills with people, empties with people, yet there are Alexsandra, I, and four others, who were all scheduled for the 9:30AM Airwaves flight.

Forget about the jeweler, we are now growing perilously close to missing our 2:40PM flight to Joburg. What was supposed to have been a four hour layover is now turning into a layover of less than an hour.

Finally we are told that we are now going to be on a Star Of Africa charter. However, SOA had only planned on six guests on their 12 seat caravan, but now there were 12 of us. So? Well, their plane was FULL of fuel and now with the extra weight of six more guests, they had to SIPHON hundreds of gallons of gasoline from the plane and this took about 90 minutes!

So, here it is now, 1:45PM, and we are just boarding our flight. There is no possible way that we are going to make our 2:40PM flight to Joburg. As a result, we are going to miss our first night in Cape Town and be limited to a very brief 3 night visit. Furthermore, we are out our first night at the Twelve Apostles Hotel, sacrificing a $600 per night hotel room, to instead stay in Lusaka. I guess that is the equivalent of someone who is supposed to be staying at the Four Seasons in Hawaii instead getting stuck in Salt Lake City or somewhere for their first night.

Trying to make the most out of a bad situation, we put in a quick call to the jeweler to let him know what happen and try to laugh along as he says that it was fate and we were meant to visit his factory.

We arrive in Lusaka at about 3:10PM, about 30 minutes after our flight, the last flight of the day, to Joburg departed.

After getting our luggage, a Star Of Africa rep takes us and the other four passengers to their office. Although Airwaves is in the very next office over, there is nobody other than a couple baggage handler types in Airwaves office.

Star Of Africa, in trying to get us sorted out, makes all kinds of phone calls, some to Airwaves, I suppose. We are then instructed to visit South African Airways office to let them know we missed our flight and to get reticketed for a flight the following day.

Thankfully when I purchased my tickets from Joburg to Cape Town and from Cape Town to KMIA (Nelspruit), I purchase them on SAA, despite the fact that they were nearly double the price as flying on Kulula would have been. As a result, we have no problems changing my ticket and we are put on the first flight, at 8AM, to Joburg.

After returning to Star Of Africa's office, I am told that they are putting me up at the Crestview Hotel or Crest Villa Hotel or something to that effect. I respond by letting them know that I am NOT staying at any such hotel. I tell them that as a result of Airwaves and Star Of Africa that I am sacrificing my 5* hotel in Cape Town and will accept nothing less than the Taj Pamodzi Hotel.

After a brief phone call, SOA agrees to put me up at the Inter-Continental Hotel, and I quickly accept this option. I am told that Airwaves will be paying for the hotel, but the problem is this is coming straight from the mouth of SOA's person. I ask him to provide me with a voucher or something, but instead he tells me not to worry and gives me his business card and reassures me that it has all been "sorted." By the way, start to worry when an African starts "sorting."

We are finally able to leave the airport at about 4PM for our 25 minute drive to the Lusaka I/C Hotel. On the way, we pass the Crest Villa Hotel, and while not bad, it is like a Ramada Inn, halfway between downtown and the airport.

We arrive to the I/C Hotel, a very nice business hotel, and they have NO record of a reservation for us. Eventually, after about five attempts, and 20 minutes, they are able to get in touch with the SOA representive and we are then provided with a room.

Meanwhile, while I am trying to sort out this mess, Alexsandra has been scoping out the jewelry shop (owned by the jeweler who we have been talking to all along) and she has already made arrangements for the jeweler's private car and driver to come fetch us.

We quickly take our bags upstairs to our room, Room 666, I kid you not, and we meet the driver downstairs. We are whisked away in a luxury SUV and after a short 1 mile drive, we are already at the factory.

We briefly meet with the jeweler, Raj, who is no older than I am, and then we are turned over to his sister, Rashmi, who, at 32, is Alexsandra's age. Both Raj and Rashmi are both attractive and very pleasant. If that is not enough, they own their own mine!

Alexsandra has brought a couple pieces from the jewelry store that caught her eye and Rashmi shows us quite a few more pieces.

The concentration seems to be on Tanzanites and Emeralds. Thank God they take American Express!

Rashmi gives us quite an education--she has an MBA in gemmology from the UK--and I ask her the magic question.

Which gem will I be able to get the best deal on in Zambia compared to elsewhere?

The answer?

EMERALDS. Zambian Emeralds are very highly esteemed and some even hold them in higher regard than Colombian Emeralds. We are told that she even sells emeralds to Colombian jewelers who then turn around and sell them as Colombian Emeralds.

Alexsandra picks out a 1.66 ct. Emerald, surrounded by 1.0 cts. of diamonds (ten small 0.10 diamonds, but of excellent quality, I think VS1 and E color).

We get the price on the ring and Alexsandra pulls me aside to assure me that the same ring would be more than double back home--This is confirmed this morning at Alexsandra's local jeweler who said that her ballpark estimate was TRIPLE what we had paid for the ring.

I too easily part ways with my American Express, as is usually the case, and they ring it up. While Rashmi has her assistant ring it up, Alexsandra and Rashmi start making plans to bankrupt me by planning matching earrings, a matching necklace and a matching broch (sp.?).

Just as I am thinking, great, now Alexsandra will HAVE to come back to Zambia with me next year, Rashmi tells us that she will be on the west coast (USA) later this year for some big jewelery shows.

We ask Rashmi for a good restaurant recommendation and she gives us her pick, Marlin's, and calls in reservations for us. As if that is not enough, she gives us a ride in her Bimmer to the restaurant.

We thank Rashmi, get a few of her business cards and part ways once she drops us off at Marlin's.

Marlin's does not look spectacular by any means, but the food proves to be wonderful. Very nice steaks, great wine and good service. By the time we are done with our dinner, the restaurant is FULL, probably close to 100 people consisting of Americans, Europeans, white Zambians, black Zambians and Zambians of Indian descent.

Just as we are starting to feel good about things, we return to the hotel and we are informed by the front desk that the Financial Controller of Airwaves has been desperately trying to get in touch with us, and that he was actually at the hotel. It turns out that Airwaves has REFUSED to pay for our room and that we are on our own!

He has left his business card and I have the hotel connect me to his cell phone, no matter that it is already 10PM at night by now. I scream at him for as long as I possibly can, but then it dawns on me that I may as well be screaming at my dog. Sure, my dog will know that I am screaming at him/her, but he/she does not know why. It obviously was not sinking in to this person and he continued to insist that Airwaves had no record of my existence and as a result could be of no assistance.

I yell at him for his company's safety record, for their poor reputation and for his ignorance of his stranded passenger's existence, but nothing is getting through, so I finally just hang up on him.

The next morning I am forced to pay my own bill but fortunately hotels in Lusaka are pretty cheap. My bill, including room service for dessert and making a few telephone calls, is only $132 USD. Still, the money is not the point, it is the whole principle of the matter and the lack of concern on the part of Airwaves (I never received an apology).

We take the 6AM hotel shuttle to the airport and arrive at 6:30AM for our 8AM flight. Fortunately, a SAA Business Class lounge has been added recently. While very basic, lacking bathrooms and internet access, it was still nice to enjoy free beverages and snacks in an exclusive area, although the airport was pretty empty so early in the morning.

We dispose of our remaining Zambian Kwacha by buying a couple bottles of Amarula...just more s*** to carry around!

We board our SAA flight to Joburg and we are off, on schedule, to Joburg and Cape Town.

Oh well, at least Alexsandra got her jewelery, after all!

... and so the adventure continues. The highs and lows of travel.

At least Alexsandra got her sparklies!

a gem of a tale (sorry)

Hope South Africa goes better.

I'll check out some of the links relating to Airways that you included.

Rocco--great stories.

I have a logistical question--how were you making the phone calls to the jeweler (from the airport) were you using a U.S. based cell phone? How did that work exactly?

I guess i wasnt a regular cell phone, must have been sattelite phone, but i am only guessing

bat,

It was a satellite phone. My wife and I own three homes for the elderly with Alzheimer's (and other dementias). So, only because there are human lives that she is in charge of do we bring a satellite phone.

It cost about $250 to rent a satellite phone for a month and the rate per minute was very reasonable, something like $1.60 per minute.

atravelynn,

Yes, please do check out those links. I did not want to put some things in my own words but would rather let others do the talking out of fear that I would be slapped with a lawsuit.

Zambia is a beautiful country that I will return to again and again, but one should know their options and the companies they are dealing with.

Thanks for the info--that makes sense. Just curious, did you have to get a permit for it? My friend is thinking about bringing one to Tanzania and his wife found some info on the embassy web site that he will have to get a permit to bring it in.

Rocco, i'd love to see some lodge pictures!! Chiawa, Luangwa river lodge and Puku. Barry has managed to change our 2 nights at Kasaka into Chiawa. Making the trip in this order : 1 night Sausage tree, 2 nights Chiawa, 2 nights Royal Livingstone, 2 nights Puku and 3 nights Luangwa river lodge.

Has someone taken the elephant ride at Zimbabwe side as an activity in Livingstone??

Room 666, huh? This is all beginning to make sense.

Out of curiosity: if I remember correctly, Alexsandra used to "not like" safari that much, or at least wasn't as much of an enthusiast as you. Has that changed?

Alejandra,

Okay, check back in 1 hour and I will have photos of Luangwa River Lodge and Chiawa posted in my photo album.

Hi Rocco,

Sounds like you really had some interesting adventures this time -- was Room 666 on the 13th floor by any chance?

Cheers,
Julian

Rocco:

Loved the first round of pictures. It looks as if all of the last minute camera equipment shopping (including the vest)paid off. BTW, you mentioned in an earlier post that Hugo gave you some photography tips that were usful for your entire trip. What were they?

Looking forward to the next round of photos.

Room 666 was not on the 13th floor, but it was one of the last remaining available rooms in the hotel, so perhaps even in Zambia "666" has known meaning.

I just posted about 50 more photos, including:

1. My bike ride through Mfuwe
2. Photos of the accomodations at Luangwa River Lodge
3. Photos of the accomodations at Chiawa Camp
4. Fish Eagle
5. Elephant Shrew
6. Mud Caked Elephants
7. Zebra
8. Warthog
9. Rescue By South Luangwa Conservations Society Of Buffalo Stuck In Mud (I assisted)
10. Other miscellaneous photos

Rocco:
Great pictures. I like the 2 picture sequence where you pass a pedestrian on the bike and in the second photo he has turned around to marvel at the sight.

Leely,

You are correct about Alexsandra not exactly being thrilled about going on safari. She loves Cape Town and really enjoys getting to know the staff and managers of the camp, but as far as the game activities goes, she is satisfied with doing one every other day.

I do think that we will probably go to India next and that I will need to postpone Tanzania by a year. Instead of February 2006, it would be February 2007. That is not so bad...17 month break from Africa in order to take Alexsandra someplace she would love to visit. Plus, India, even with a private car and driver and at the best 5* hotels/resorts, will be less than 1/2 the price as Tanzania.

For sure we are going to Hong Kong next September (free trip from one of my company's material suppliers). That will be a one week all inclusive trip, and Hong Kong is a shoppers paradise. This will be our second visit.

So, if we did India in February and Hong Kong in September, that would really go a long way in helping Alexsandra recharge her batteries and hopefully would make her ready to try Tanzania/Zanzibar in early 2007.

TWELVE APOSTLES HOTEL, CAPE TOWN

A day later than expected, we departed Lusaka at 8AM, arriving in Joburg at 10AM. It would be a 2 hour layover before our Noon flight.

After a quick visit to the checked luggage facility in the basement to switch around our clothes, we were then off on a Noon flight to Cape Town.

Arrival in Cape Town was at 2PM and we arrived to a cool and wet welcoming. This was perfect after having spent 13 days in Zambia in mostly hot and dusty conditions.

After retrieving our luggage we went to one of the shuttle counters and hired a private car to the Twelve Apostles for a mere 150 Rand (about $23 USD).

The Twelve Apostles was like revisiting an old friend. We each absolutely love the location of the hotel, between Camps Bay and Llandudno.

We checked in and upon check-in we were given a welcoming glass of sparkling wine.

Our room, despite being very nice with a great sea view, was not as nice as the room we had enjoyed in 2003. Even so, it was about a 700 sq. ft. room and was very luxurious. I had purchased a four night Luxury Link package (www.luxurylink.com) for about $1,100, but even that was a good deal since the room had a rack rate of $600 USD per night.

The cost of Cape Town hotels is really out of control, so I am thankful for Luxury Link. For whatever it is worth, I would later read while on my London stopover back home, in the UK edition of Conde Nast Traveler, that the Twelve Apostles was voted the top hotel in South Africa, coming in at #6 overall in the Middle East/Africa.

The day of arrival we really didn't do much. Basically we cleaned ourselves up, rested for a few hours and then had the hotel make us dinner reservations at Bukhara.

Bukhara is the best Indian restaurant that I have yet dined. The food is so amazing and we were like cavemen in there once the food arrived. It was heavenly! While some of the game lodges we visited had very good food, after awhile, most game lodge food starts to taste the same. So, to have the flavors from Bukhara exploding and having the nice ambience and great music at Bukhara was perfect.

On the second day in Cape Town (that was originally supposed to be Day #3), I had scheduled an all day tour for Hermanus Whale Watching with a private guide, Brian Aldridge.

Since we were now one day short, Alexsandra chose to go off shopping while I woke at 6AM in order to be ready for my 6:45AM pickup. Although the Azure Restaurant at the Twelve Apostles does not open for breakfast until 7AM, I was able to get in a little early and stuff some breakfast down my throat. Unfortunately, in order to get to Hermanus in time for our 9AM whale watching cruise, we absolutely had to leave at 6:45AM.

Brian Aldridge proved to be a very good guide. In his early 60's, he is a lifelong Capetonian and has been guiding for about the last five years after previously owning his own Engineering firm for many years.

So, we arrived just ontime at about 8:55AM for our boat cruise. The boat cruise was delayed by about 15 minutes, which at least allowed me to get my bearings and enjoy a cup of coffee first.

The whale watching cruise was very nice, but I was reminded quickly that whales rarely come very far above the water. We did see probably a dozen whales alongside the boat during the 2.5 hour cruise, some passing directly under the boat.

Following the boat cruise, we had lunch at some seaside restaurant. Following lunch, we stopped at a couple spots where land based whale watching took place but that was pretty quiet.

Overall, it was a nice enough day, but a bit too tranquil for my taste. Had I known that I would have been shorted a day in Cape Town, I would have instead booked a white shark cage diving expedition, but now that I only had one day remaining, I wanted to spend that day with Alexsandra.

I arrived back to the hotel just after 5PM, while Alexsandra arrived back from shopping at around 7PM. We enjoyed a very nice dinner at the Azure Restaurant in the Twelve Apostles Hotel and then called it a night.

The following day, our final day in Cape Town, we went to the Waterfront and then back to Bukhara, for lunch.

At the Waterfront, we each got massages at the Wellness Center that is right next to the Aquarium. Unbelievably, the Twelve Apostles (award winning) Spa was fully booked during our stay.

Afterward, we walked around the mall a bit and visited a couple very high end jewelers, mostly to compare the Emerald ring that I had bought for her in Zambia to the prices we would have paid in Joburg for a ring the same quality.

Finally, we made our way to Bukhara for a late lunch at just before 3PM. Again, it was perfect.

We returned to the hotel around 5:30PM and then went straight to the Leopard Lounge's deck to enjoy high tea and the magnificent sunset. The Leopard Lounge was completely packed and we amused ourselves by watching dumbfounded people whom had expected to show up 10 minutes before the sunset and then were left scratching their a$$ when they saw that there were no tables outside just waiting for them.

It was such a beautiful sunset, but I had no desire to run back to the room to fetch my camera. Unfortunately, I am completely clueless with my sunrise and sunset photography.

We stayed at the Leopard Lounge until about 8PM and then called it a night. With an early 9AM flight directly to Nelspruit (KMIA), that meant we would have to leave the hotel no later than 7:15AM to get to the Cape Town Airport by about 7:45AM. Consequently, we were in no position to hit the town.

Although it was an abbreviated visit to Cape Town, with two prior visits under our belt, three nights proved to be enough time. We checked out and bid our goodbye to the Twelve Apostles until next time. However, I no longer think that Cape Town will be a necessary stop for either of us, as this time may be better spent in Europe, South America, Australia or whatever other interesting connection we may use to get to Southern Africa in the future. Absolutely beautiful city, but three visits is quite enough, at least for now.

ON DECK...SIMBAMBILI (SABI SAND GAME RESERVE, SOUTH AFRICA)

Hi Rocco,

If you're planning on India, you may be interested to know that CCA are planning to open a group of eco-lodges in India in the fall of 2006. Alexsandra said she wanted to do a tiger safari -- it might be worth waiting until the CCA lodges are open, as the lodges currently operating in India are very luxurious but have mediocre to poor guiding according to friends who have gone on tiger safaris there.

Cheers,
Julian

OMG, I can't believe I booked a TZ safari with ATR including 3 nights Nomad Serengeti b/c I thought you would have given it the Rocco stamp of approval by the time I went!

Thanks for the report. Looking forward to the next installment.

Great to catch up on the report... still can't believe the Airwaves thing - now that you're home and presumably have all the proof of booking stuff, can you do anything about compensation for the costs and all?

Kavey,

I am supposed to be reimbursed by Airwaves but ONLY for the Lusaka I/C Hotel. That still leaves me out $280 for 1/4 of my Luxury Link package at the Twelve Apostles.

Quite honestly, although I have trip insurance, if I cannot get this done with a couple phone calls and faxes, I will not pursue it. My time is valuable to me and if it is going to take me over a couple hours of my time, then I will just take this one on the chin and call it a day.

Rocco, don't give up on Cape Town until you get to go cage diving with the white sharks. Viewing whales from a boat sounds a little too tranquil, and not that unique since you can spot whales all around the world, including around California.

Cage diving, on the other hand, is not too be missed, and I don't know of any other location where you can get into the cage using a snorkel (and not have to be a certified diver) (that's because Shark Alley near Dyer Is. is shallow and the cage floats on the surface, where the sharks patrol).

Plus, we did an hour of whale watching on the return (from the land in Hermanus), but plenty of whales were close to shore and we saw, and photographed, several breaching.

Michael

Rocco - I thought E. Africa was set and practically paid for? Well, India will be great, too~~~

Rocco, please feel free to ask me questions about India, routes, places, accomodations....

Cooncat,

I will be paying a $750 cancellation fee (1/4 of my deposit) for Tanzania. Fortunately, I convinced ATR to only make me pay a deposit on my safari portion and talked them out of making me pay a deposit on the upgrade from Gibbs Farm to Manyara Tree Lodge and from Ngorongoro Serena to Crater Lodge.

Rocco - That's a decent chunk of cash, but I suppose it's better than it could have been. Was ATR pretty decent about it?

Rocco-on the upside, that gives you 1 more year to get in shape for the Kilimanjaro Marathon...on the downside, I see a rubies in Alexsandras future!

Rocco,
I can't believe your giving up Tanzania next year

Rocco -

I'm eagerly awaiting the Simbambili portion of your trip report. But, I'm already feeling a little let down from this coming to an end.... As an africa addict, I need a continous stream of trip reports!

Sorry to hear about the trouble with Airwaves, but the emerald ring was apparently fated for Alexsandra!

Rocco

Glad you had a great trip, waiting expectantly for the SA portion.

Patty,

It was a bit ambitious of me to schedule Tanzania only 5 months after returning from Zambia & South Africa. This last trip included 15 nights on safari and that was probably too much for Alexsandra to handle, so it would be completely selfish on my part if we did not go places where she will enjoy in 2006.

As far as the deposit goes, unless ATR wants to allow me to postpone until 2007 with no penalty, I will just have to accept that 25% penalty. However, you better believe that I will take the remaining $2,250 to immediately put a 25% deposit down on the very best possible India itinerary. Do you have any idea how far $9,000 goes in India? What would only pay for 5 nights in Botswana will pay for an amazing three week ultra-luxury holiday in India at the finest hotels/resorts with a private car & driver throughout.


Alejandra,

I will be sure to run my itinerary past you. I am thinking of mid February to time it with both the Desert Festival in Jaisalmer and in order to get away from home when it will be its coldest. You know, these frigid Southern California winters, when temperatures dip into the 50's, really get to me!

I definitely want to include Delhi, Agra, Jaipur and Udaiput in the itinerary, as well. It will be a bit tricky and will require at least an overnight in a couple places like Bundi and Jodhpur.

Just offhand, although this is not 100% correct, it would be something like this:

Imperial Hotel, New Delhi (3)
Amar Vilas, Agra (2)
Raj Vilas, Jaipur (3)
Brij Bhushanjee, Bundi (1)
Udai Vilas, Udaipur (3) (I know the Lake Palace is supposed to have an awesome location, but I hear it is run down next to Udai Vilas)
???, Jodhpur (2) (I forget the name, but there is some spectacular hotel/resort in Jodhpur)
???, Jaisalmer (3) Desert Festival

However, given that the Desert Festival is about February 10th, I may just do this all in reverse order, finishing in New Delhi.


Thit Cho,

I had the opportunity to go cage diving on my final day in Cape Town but I was just too burned out. It would have been a better choice, however, than Hermanus whale watching.


Dreaming & Napamatt,

By tomorrow, for sure, I will have the final segment of my trip report up. I wasn't really expecting my one day in Lusaka to take so much effort, but it was quite a day!


Dennis,

While I may not make it to Africa in 2006, I, at least, want to run more marathons than I ever have in a single year. I have run three to date (Los Angeles, Rock N Roll San Diego and Vina Del Mar, Chile) and all of them were in 2003. Now that I am going to be half dead at 35 next April, I want to really start getting in shape, so I do have my goal set for FOUR marathons in 2006. Doing so would have me in awesome shape for February 2007 if I still wanted to run the Kiliminjaro Marathon (although spending the first three nights in Arusha seems wasteful).

Although I am as heavy as I have ever been, my last marathon came at only 20 pounds lighter than I am now. So, with a good four months of training, I will be ready for another marathon, even if I only do lose 20 pounds. Marathons are 90% mental...you just have to perform some basic training and then be enough of a masochist to keep pushing yourself forward when your body is screaming to quit.

I'm wondering: when you go to India and post your itinerary and trip report, how many of us you will convince to go there and postpone our Africa travels? You've done a remarkable job promoting Zambia, just look at how many are going this/next year, and mostly from your postings. You should get paid! Also wondering if you can post your exploits of finding just the right India itinerary on the Africa board or do we all have to find you on the Asia board? Just won't be the same without you here!!
Dennis

Rocco, I have been a couple of times to India, once for a monthlong vacation, and your itinerary I'm sure is developing.

I stayed at the Imperial in Delhi in November 1996, and it had a nice colonial feel -- I think its even been upgraded since then.

My only comment is to think long and hard about three days in Jaipur -- it was my least favorite stop, but since your wife likes gems, it may be interesting for her.

You may want to add a national park to break up the city-to-city-to-city itinerary, b/c the cities in Rajasthan, while amazing, will start to blend together. And there are some great reserves where a night or two may allow you to see tigers (we flew to Royal Chitwan in Nepal to try to see tigers and rhinos, and while we saw several rhino, we had no luck with tigers).

We also stayed at the Lake Palace, and the location is great, but it was, even then, a bit run down, but it was perfectly fine, and the location is spectacular. Even if you don't stay, venture across for cocktails.

I'm currently thinking of trip for December 2006 (I am expecting a nice return on an investment next year) so I'm thinking of going somewhere I haven't been before. My current planned trips for next year are July (South Africa -- Hluhluwe and Kgalagadi) and August (very likely NZ), so for December my current choices are Antarctica, Tanzania (Mahale, Katavi and Selous) or India/Sri Lanka (including Sunderbans to try to see tigers).

Michael

Rocco,
Sounds like you had a great trip. Also, great report and pics., thanks. We're pretty much finalized to spend 3-4 nights at LRL in Dec./Jan. Curious, beyond your report, how did u find quality and variety of wildlife viewing? Also, how do the limitations on off-roading effect the viewing? Thanks much.

Rocco I am really enjoying your report. Thanks!
I will follow your building of an Indian itinerary. Have been to India on a few occations for never less than 3 weeks at a time. It is an amazing place. Total sensory overload. The food is wonderful!
Happy planning and thanks again for the great report.
J

gbaron,

On only one occasion did I feel that the gameviewing was impacted by the inability to go offroad. I am speaking of the occasion of the leopard kill that we witnessed while at Luangwa River Lodge. It would have been great to have been able to get closer to see the leopard in the tree with its kill.

However, I found the off-road rules to be a bit more relaxed in the Lower Zambezi, but that may be because it was not as busy with other game vehicles and there seemed to be a better relationship between the guides and various camps/lodges in the Lower Zambezi than in South Luangwa.

However, since the lions in South Luangwa often follow the road or are in the dry river beds (which are fair game for driving), I never felt cheated from seeing the lions. On many occasions, lions were well within 10 feet from the vehicle in South Luangwa. Alternately, in the Lower Zambezi, the close up gameviewing of elephants is spectacular.

The overall diversity of the gameviewing is superior in Zambia than in the Sabi Sand. The Sabi Sand is to see the Big Five, but despite having an incredible time at Simbambili, I could not imagine planning an extended safari around only the Sabi Sand. You will pretty much see everything in three or four nights.

Roccco

Good point but...

When I go on safari it's to spend time in the company of the big five not only to see them.

Seeing lions everyday increases the odds of seeing a kill,mating,climbing trees,interaction between predators and of course seeing the cubs.I could never tire of this!

I don't pay $1000/night to see a giraffe or a hippopotamus.

I have spent 25 consecutive days in the SSGR and even this wasn't enough!

To each his own I guess...

Safarinut,

I guess I have just been spoiled by the diversity of game activities possible in Zambia (Canoeing, Tiger Fishing, Boat Cruises, Bush Walks, Extended Game Drives, Cultural Visits, Etc.) to have as much of an appreciation for 25 consecutive days of game drives.

However, I would agree that I have not yet come across a better place for leopards, and for this reason alone, a visit to the Sabi Sand is worthwhile. While Zambia has more leopards than anywhere else in the world, the leopards in the Sabi Sand are more habituated to the vehicles, allowing for some close up gameviewing.

Hi Rocco,

Your trip report is great -- can't wait to hear about the Sabi Sands portion!

Whilst I love Botswana and appreciate its wildness, I also love returning to Londoz yearly -- not only is there superlative leopard viewing, but it's also a chance to catch up with old friends (two and four-legged). One great thing about the relatively small size of the Sabi Sands is that the rangers really know the specific leopards and lions in their traversing area -- their personalities, their family history, their quirks. That's one thing I didn't get in Botswana, and it's part of what makes things like the stories of the Leopards of Londolozi (and the Leopards of Simbambili) so special.

I'm not sure I could do an entire month in the Sabit Sands, but there are certainly people who can and do -- there is one British couple who always spend the month of August in Suite 1 or 2 in Bateleur Camp at Londoz.

Cheers,
Julian

Hi Rocco,

About the Lake Palace -- at last report the lake had mostly dried up, leaving the Palace high and dry (and much less picturesque) so I think you made the right choice in Udaipur.

Cheers,
Julian

Hi Safarinut,
Well said, I'm with you. Nothing gives you that tingle like being in the company of big cats.
tegards - tom

Safarinut

I'm with you. Once you've seen all the animals, you want to see behaviour and better still inter species interaction. To do that you have to be in the right place at the right time, you can never plan for that but you can increase your chances. I also love seeing old friends and a familiar landscape.

I agree with Micheal about Jaipur, we also felt it was one of the least interesting stops we made in Rajasthan. However, I have to say that whenever I say this on the Asia board someone else always said it was one of their favorites!

Roccco, just to say we were in Bundi last year (as part of one month in northern India)and you should know that one part of the Bundi-Udaipur road is brutal. I would highly recommend some of the heritage hotels including Deogarh and Rohetgarh among others. i-escape.com has wonderful pictures and descriptions.

Looking forward to the rest of your report.

welltraveledbrit,

I actually just read your trip report this morning!

Would you mind breaking down your exact itinerary as your trip report was a bit difficult for me to follow, but then again, sometimes I am a little bit slow.

Roccco

WE ARE WAITING!!!

I promise I will post the Simbambili report in the next six hours. I just want to be able to do it justice rather than rush through it.

Rocco, it was very interesting to see your photos from Simbambili after having seen Taga's video, and hearing the click of each photo.

Do you know what kind of camera Taga used? It was like watching a professionally filmed movie -- very clear, great sound. Was it edited and uploaded from the bush?

Thanks

DRUM ROLL PLEASE.......

SIMBAMBILI!

When Alexsandra and I first missed out on Night #1 in Cape Town when we got stuck in Lusaka, Alexsandra was insisting that we not even go to Simbambli, but instead spend our full four nights in Cape Town, followed by two final nights in the Cape Winelands.

However, after the first couple days in Cape Town, as beautiful a city as it is, it dawned on us that we had already done most everything!

Cape Winelands? Check.
Table Mountain? Check.
Cape Peninsula? Check.
Robben Island? Check.
Hermanus Whale Watching? Check.
Botanical Gardens? Check.

Fortunately, even Alexsandra was ready to leave Cape Town after only three nights, despite another lovely stay at the Twelve Apostles.

So, it was in good spirits that Alexsandra and I boarded our 9AM flight to Nelspruit (KMIA) aboard a SAA Express plane. These planes hold a maximum of about 40 passengers and are a 2-1 configuration.

The flight was approximately 2 hours 15 minutes and landed at KMIA around 11:15AM. After retrieving our luggage, we were met by our charter air pilot, a 26 year old woman who, much to the dismay of Alexsandra, could pass for about 19 years old! Alexsandra, despite being a successful business owner, is not exactly a champion for female pilots.

Much to the pilot's credit, she was able to act in a professional manner and did not take it personally and before long we were aboard a Sefofane Cessna 206 four seater on our way to Simbambili.

It was a short 25 minute flight and we landed at Elephant Plains airstrip. Elephant Plains is the neighboring lodge, a short five minute drive from Simbambili. This portion of the Sabi Sand is very interesting in that there is a very high level of cooperation between the various game lodges.

The lodges all sharing a common traversing area covering their own boundaries are Simbambli, Elephant Plains, Chitwa Chitwa and Nkhoro. All of them seem like wonderful lodges, but I never inspected the others.

We were met at the airport by one of the managers, Laurica, whose husband is the lead guide and manager, Jaco (pronounced Yaaco). After the short five minute drive we pulled up to Simbambili.

Upon arrival at Simbambili, it was immediately apparent that Simbambili was a very luxurious lodge, not far behind Singita yet $650+ per person per night LESS than Singita.

The common areas at Simbambili were just in pristine condition, and like Singita Boulders, there is a raised walkway over a fish pond with these beautiful oversized vases that are actually fountains. Additionally, the common area also overlooks a very nice water hole and the daily guests conquering their thirst included buffalo, giraffe, kudu and leopard.

I was placed in Suite #5 and although just a standard suite, it was a beautifully appointed room. Honestly, the only difference between it and Singita is that this room was likely about 900 sq. ft. while Singita is likely about 1500 sq. ft. with his and her bathrooms.

The room featured air conditioning, an oversized bathtub, a wonderful shower, and a beautiful deck with private plunge pool and a daybed. Thankfully, Alexsandra was thrilled with the accomodations and compared the amenities to the Twelve Apostles Hotel (in the bush).

Rather than going day by day into the menu, I will only say that the food was AWESOME. Whatever weight I may have lost in Zambia, was quickly gained back at Simbambili. I mean the chocolate filled croissants at breakfast were just as good as the ones I enjoyed daily at the Twelve Apostles Hotel.

The French Toast was perfect, better than most places back home. The omellettes were wonderful with fresh vegetables and very good cheeses.

The steak was beautifully done and was complemented by a wonderful bottle of wine that was recommended to me by someone I met while dining out in Lusaka. Something like Trilogy or other, it was called a Cabernet Franc blend, and I nursed it along for my full stay, having a glass of wine with each dinner.

As far as the game drives go, they were action packed as we raced from one Big Five spotting to another. Unlike Zambia, there is not wildlife and birdlife all along the way, but rather a very high concentration of predators, with not quite enough of the other animals. However, that was my entire intent with ending at the Sabi Sand, so that I would be able to focus primarily on leopards, with whichever lions, rhino, buffalo, elephant and other wildlife just being icing on the cake.

Jaco had this infectious enthusiasm for his job that I really believe was enjoyed by all of the guests. He proved to be very knowledgable, as did the tracker, Lucky.

Within the first three game drives we had already come across five different leopards, including a spectacular sighting of a mother leopard with her seven month old cub on a very fresh duiker kill. The cub was quite feisty and actually had a bit of a standoff with her mother when the mother wanted to take a turn on the duiker! Then the cub turned her angst towards the vehicle, and I would like to think towards ME, since I was the obnoxious one that was closest to her with my zoom lens poking not more than 10 feet away from her. She hissed a couple times to voice her displeasure and since the mom was not upset, this was more entertaining than scary.

Other gameviewing highlights included following a pride of seven lions (all lionesses, I believe) out on a hunt. This was despite the full moon and although we did not see it as it happened later in the night and on a neighboring reserve, the word is that they brought down a buffalo that night.

Another highlight was following a couple different leopards that were out hunting. One of the leopards, an elder female leopard who is blind in one eye from a standoff with a male leopard, engaged us for a couple hours as she allowed us to follow her. Occasionally, she would climb atop termite mounds for a better view, and often used the ignition of the vehicle to her advantage. Just for fun, Jaco did a demonstration for us, and it was almost like playing "Simon Says" with the leopard, as when the vehicle was shut off the leopard froze and when the vehicle was started, the leopard moved!

One thing that really helped the gameviewing is that there are half a dozen vehicles all talking to each other and telling each other what they have found. While this does take the magic out of the tracking of the animals, it does make for some very good gameviewing. However, it does start to have a contrived feeling when one is asked by the guide whether they would, A) like to go see the leopard that is 10 minutes away, B) go see the rhino that is 15 minutes away or C) head 5 minutes away to see the large tusker elephant. Also, it spoils the guests so much that when we were unable to see a certain spotting because there were already the maximum three allowed vehicles at the sighting, that it is a big letdown. Also, when there are NOT three options and nothing yet has been spotted, then the raised expectations are dashed. However, this is only temporary because with so many vehicles patrolling a relatively small area, something always seems to be spotted quickly.

Just for the record, however, I do not believe the Simbambili/Elephant Plains/Chitwa Chitwa/Nkhoro area to be any more saturated than, for example, the Mala Mala or Londolozi area, since there are such high capacities at each of these two lodges.

Another highlight was, after a couple days of trying , finally finding the dominant male leopard of the area. The first time was on the second night of my three night stay and we vigorously followed him, but he was on a mission and was not about to wait around for us. So, we rummaged through the bush as best we could, but the leopard was too quick for us and we eventually gave up on him.

However, the next morning the same leopard turned up right near Simbambili and we followed him right to the Simbambili watering hole and it was from there that I was able to get my photos of him drinking with his reflection perfectly showing in the water. Jaco was able to position the vehicle a few times in such a way that he passed on each side. Those on the right side of the vehicle were quick to remind Jaco that it was their turn to face the leopard, as did those of us on the left side of the vehicle!

As a final highlight, on my final morning game drive, Jaco beamingly informed us that a cheetah had been spotted! This was just a big tease as the cheetah was actually on land that Simbambili did not have traversing rights over (Djuma). However, he told us that the leopard looked like it was heading into this no mans land called Manyeleti that was privately owned and non-commercial.

Fortunately for us, Jaco told us that Simbambili was just wrapping up a deal with the landowners in Manyeleti that was going to allow Simbambili exclusive access to this very sizeable area (see attached link).

http://www.go2africa.com/south-africa/kruger-south/sabi-sand-game-reserve/

After frantically trying to reach one of the landowners on the radio, Jaco made a decision to just head towards the area, which was about 20 minutes from where we currently had been. Meanwhile, he was also trying to reach someone back at Simbambili so they could try to reach a landowner by telephone just to make sure that it was alright for us to traverse on their land in search of the cheetah.

Unfortunately, we were never able to reach a landowner, but much to his credit, Jaco made the decision that we would enter into Manyeleti anyway since he said it was a 99% done deal that Simbambili was going to secure traversing rights in the next few days (for an intended bushcamp that will offer walking safaris).

I, along with the other guests, celebrated this decision by Jaco and we ventured into a wild no-mans land that did not have a single commercial lodge in its 30,000 hectares, despite bordering the Sabi Sand, Timbavati and Kruger National Park.

It was such a vast area, and we had such limited time that I gave up completely on finding the cheetah and just enjoyed the scenery. Meanwhile, Jaco and Lucky were trying their best to theorize where the cheetah may be.

Fortunately, Jaco had a decent knowledge of the area from being onhand with the owners of Simbambili as they were making their plans for the walking safari venture. Even so, finding that leopard would be like finding a needle in the haystack and to make matters more difficult, no offroad driving is permitted in Manyeleti. Given this fact, Jaco suggested that we try to track the cheetah down on foot. Five bumbling Americans, a guide and a tracker trying to track the world's fastest land animal on foot...Jaco must have been out of his mind!

So, there we are, parking at a spot that Jaco said may be attractive to a cheetah...after walking not more than 150 meters, either Lucky or Jaco called out CHEETAH! My heart raced as did my eyes in search of the cheetah. About 30 yards in front of us, there it was! A male cheetah lying in the shade under a large tree!

We all marveled at the sighting and Jaco and Lucky, although loving every bit of it, quickly excused all of our praise and summed it up to nothing more than luck.

The cheetah stuck around for about a minute, but then as we attempted to get closer, like a bolt of lightning it was gone, never to be seen again.

Although brief and not close-up, the cheetah spotting was incredible given the circumstances...a perfect way to finish up my 2005 safari!

(I do have some unposted photos of the cheetah that I will try to post by tomorrow, although, as I said, it was not a close up encounter, but hopefully knowing the background, the photos will still be appreciated).

We arrived back at Simbambili with only enough time for me to have a quick breakfast before our 10AM departure back to Nelspruit (KMIA) and subsequent 11:15AM departure back to Joburg.

We said our goodbyes to everybody and it was with a mixture of happiness and sadness that I said goodbye to the bush. Happy to be going home to my dogs and my home and Italian and Mexican food, but sad since I would not mind spending another few days on safari!

Our flights back to Joburg were without incident and after spending seven hours at the Joburg Airport we boarded our flight back to London, counting the hours until we would see "Daddy."

Daddy (real name, Scooter)...

http://www.kodakgallery.com/PhotoView.jsp?&collid=167943856205&photoid=156475856205

ON DECK - FINAL THOUGHTS AND CONCLUSIONS ON ZAMBIA & SOUTH AFRICA

Rocco:
Great report! We are in the planning stages of our first African trip and your report is very motivating. Welcome home!

hawaiian traveller,

In case you are headed to Zambia and need some help, feel free to e-mail me.

It is not hard to write a motivational trip report after the wonderful itinerary that I experienced. There were very few negatives but so many positives. Also, although I have not yet highlighted it, I met so many interesting people on this trip, from lodge owners to directors of conservation programs to teachers and students at one of the conservation programs. That in itself will get its own topic and photo album as soon as I have wrapped up my entire trip report.

Although I will get into it more in my "final thoughts and conclusions", one thing that one is able to experience in Zambia is the "Real Africa", as is the Zambian Tourist Boards slogan. Unlike some other places, the real Africa is not shielded from view of the tourists, but rather ingrained in the entire experience.

Roccco

Fantastic report! Thank you!

How do you rate Jaco as a Guide?

Thanks again for your excellent trip report

safarinut,

Honestly, Jaco is the best overall guide that I have yet experienced. It was a pleasure to spend three days with Jaco and I really learned a lot from him that I never knew before. He just really KNEW the wildlife and that cheetah tracking was absolutely amazing.

Let me add a couple more thoughts...it is my experience that some of the more experienced guides, even the very good ones, tend to clam up when they think that their guests do not appreciate their commentary. I think this is unfortunate, because, quite honestly, even I, while most appreciative of what I am seeing, do not want to necessarily engage in further conversation, yet this does not mean that I am not immensely enjoying my guide continuing on with his teaching/guiding.

Jaco loves to hear himself talk, but he is also a pleasure to hear. He has a wacky/dorky sense of humour and knows how to tell a good story.

Another thought that escaped me during the Simbambili report...the fruit...WOW.
I am not a big fruit fan but there was fresh pineapple, guava fruit, star fruit and even papaya, I believe. I am getting hungry just thinking about the Simbambili food right now, and now that I am burned out on too much Mexican and Italian food from this past week, I am more than ready for a Simbambili meal...if only it was that easy!

Roccco

Glad to hear you enjoyed Jaco as a guide.He was one of the first guides I had years ago while working at Chitwa Chitwa.

I will never forget his opening line"Stop me if I'm talking too much" He is certainly the best guide I've ever experienced.

Rocco, any more info on Manyeleti - is it a private area that's owned by a family as their own private reserve?

Michael,

It is my understanding that Manyeleti is privately owned by a few individuals. Djuma had formerly had traversing rights to the area, although I am not sure when.

Jaco said that once the deal goes through, Simbambili is to have access to 2/3 of the area (20,000 out of 30,000 hectares).

It does seem like it will be a nice place to add a two day walking safari combined with a stay in the Sabi Sand.

Re: Manyeletti -

Is not completely private. There are four properties here - two are Honeyguide tent properties and two Twintswalo properties.

We stayed at Honeyguide Tent in 2001 before heading to Sabi Sands and Singita. We loved our time here. Though rustic, the camps had the best linens on their beds with fluffly down filled duvets (which we didn't need -n it was way too hot); food was excellent; best, we never saw another vehicle on game drives.

Since our visit Honeyguide has upgraded the camp we stayed at, added a second camp a bit more luxurious. I believe there is one smaller very rustic camp which belongs/ed to Honeyguide unless that property has now become their upgraded lux facility.

And then there is Twintswalo which I'm not at all familiar.

The Manyaletti Reserve during the Apartheid era was reserved for blacks and coloreds... has been the last to expand with facilities for safaris.

So, Manyaletti is not devoid of lodgings.

Jaco stands corrected!

Rocco,
I'll email you the itinerary.

Enjoyed your cheetah encounter. It is always wonderful to see this threatened species.

Appreciated your Zambia vs. Simbambili
comments. That's the sort of stuff I find helpful.

Rocco,

We've enjoyed following your trip report and photos. Thanks so much for sharing!

Ericka,

It has been my pleasure!


Atravelynn,

Yes, Zambia and the Sabi Sand are definitely apples and oranges.

While this may too much of a stereotype, I think the Sabi Sand is for those that want Africa Lite...great accomodations, fly directly into your lodge's airstrip (or to a neighboring lodge), see the Big Five within the first couple drives, great food, plunge pools, instant gratification, and other than the staff, hold the Africans. Okay, this may be harsh, but it is my interpretation. While enjoyable for a few nights, it is just so incomplete.

Zambia on the other hand is not a place for instant gratification, but rather a place to come and really soak in the environment. African guides and trackers, non-profit organizations that are passionate about wildlife conservation such as Conservation Lower Zambezi, South Luangwa Conservation Society and Chipembele, endangered wildlife that truly benefits from each and every visitor, a plentitude of wildlife from hundreds of hippos within a kilometer stretch of river to buffalo herds of 400+, to nearly nonstop viewing of impalas and puku, to the possibility of seeing perhaps a dozen fish eagle on a single drive...so maybe the leopards do not stop and pose for the visitors and this does not allow for the best photos, but to see the leopards BEFORE they have been habituated to the people and the vehicles is also very special...lodges that are beautiful and in great locations but do not operate like clockwork...game activities that are largely tailored around the guests individual wishes rather than being regimented...SO MANY game activities from canoeing to boat cruises to Tiger Fishing (which is awesome, even for a person that does not fish) to extended bush walks and game drives...driving through African villages and seeing real African people...to have your soul touched by these people, who despite earning less in a year than is spent in a single night at a luxury lodge, still offer the warmest welcomes with the children RUNNING to the roadside just for the opportunity to welcome you to their country and wave and shout "How Are You!"...to meet lodge owners who started these camps/lodges long before there was a demand for them, who, sometimes for years, have been active in anti-poaching campaigns and despite now having successful operations choose to remain in camp rather than anywhere else.

Not a single rhino or cheetah to be found in South Luangwa or Lower Zambezi yet they are both such awesome places with SO MUCH ELSE to offer. Wow, I am already starting to miss Zambia, one week after I arrived home!

Anyway, that is my take on things after making my third visit to Zambia and my third visit to the Sabi Sand (which for all intensive purposes represents South Africa as a whole for those of us choosing the luxury lodge/camp route).

topping for Banson

Roccco
where are your Simbambili photos?
regards - tom

Tom,

The Simbambili photos are there...they start right after the photos of Simbambili's suite.

Approximately the final 140 photos of the gallery are of Simbambili.

I do have more photos but have not had time to upload them yet. Unfortunately I have to go to a wedding this afternoon in Palm Desert (as if it is not hot enough in the San Gabriel Valley at 103 degrees on Thursday, I have to go to a wedding in Palm Desert where it may be a dozen degrees warmer...hope the discomfort of the guests was worth whatever the bride's family saved for having the wedding on October 01st rather than waiting a month or two).

Hopefully I will find a couple hundred more photos to upload, and I still do have many of my conservation minded photos to upload, although with the rescue of the buffalo, you saw some of what South Luangwa Conservation Society does. The thing is, the carcass of the buffalo, had it been allowed to remain in the water, could have contaminated the water and harmed the animals later drinking water from that spot.

www.kodakgallery.com/rocco

Bravo and thanks for another excellent report. All your planning did pay off in the end, even with that one problem. Obviously it didn't put a pall on the rest of the trip!

Best regards,
Diane/uhoh/LOL, etc

Diane,

Yes, while we could have pouted and stomped our feet about getting stuck in Lusaka, we, instead, made the most out of it and enjoyed a very nice night that included a beautiful piece of jewelery for Alexsandra, a nice hotel (that I had to pay for myself) and a nice dinner.

Thanks for the comments in my photo album. Also, in case anybody missed it, I have uploaded a new photo album of some of my favorite photos. It may be found in the October 2005 folder at

www.kodakgallery.com/rocco

For my huge 500+ photo album, it is at the same website in the September 2005 folder. There are only about 40+ photos in my new gallery but they are much nicer, overall, than in my bigger album (some of them run through Photoshop, others not). Comments are always welcome!

Rocco

There are some very nice shots in this group. I love the hippo charge, it would have been better if there were only seven, but they rarely co-operate, so this was great. The Barred owl is lovely and I am very jealous of your proximity to a White Headed Vulture, I generally see them flying overhead and have to identify them by wing markings. The male Leopard at Simbambili is a beaut, I have asked Leon at Mala Mala if his territory overlaps and if so, can they ID him. It would be fun if we had Leopards in common!

Napamatt,

The Simbabmili traversing area goes right up against Londolozi, and we were close enough to also see spotlights from the night drives taking place at Singita. So, it would not surprise me at all if the same leopards seen in Simbambili's traversing area also were seen in Mala Mala's area.

As far as my bird/raptor photos go, there was not much that I could not shoot with a potential of 896mm zoom (my 80-400mm lens is really a 128-640mm lens with the multiplying factor caused by the reduced sensor size, and after putting on the 1.4x teleconvertor it then had the potential of 896mm).

Although it was not fun carrying around all of my photo equipment, when I do go back, I would take the same equipment:

(2) Canon 20d bodies
(1) Sigma 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6 OS lens
(1) Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 lens (this was very important for low light shooting and for close up shooting in the Sabi Sand)
(1) Canon 17-85mm f/??? IS lens
(1) Sigma 1.4x teleconvertor
(5.5 GB) CF Cards--mostly in 1GB cards but with one 512MB card. This was very convenient since I was sometimes capable of filling up close to 2 cards on a single drive, especially on the longer drives I experienced at Luangwa River Lodge.
(6) Camera Batteries (it was nice not to have to charge batteries every day).
(1) Tamrac 777 backpack--I needed a backpack this size to fit everything and the black color that I was concerned with was never even close to an issue, but then again I never went on a single bush walk this year, except for a couple very short ones at Simbambili (and I didn't bring all my stuff along).
(1) Sigma EF-500 Super Flash. Although I never learned how to properly use this flash, and I was frustrated often with my ignorance, it did come in handy for a few photos. Considering that the spotters do not flash the light in the eyes of the animals, a good flash is very important so that you get more than just the body of the animal and then bad shadowing on the face.
(1) Laptop computer. I LOVED being able to download my photos within a couple minutes and then look at them immediately following a game drive. Why spend $500 on an Epson P2000 or other expensive downloading device, when for a few hundred more you can buy a laptop that you will be able to use possibly on an everyday basis?

(sorry to stray from my original response to NapaMatt, but I am on a roll)

My one regret was packing three pairs of shoes. Believe it or not, for 21 straight days, starting in London when I boarded the flight to Joburg, I wore sandals! Not once did I wear my trail running shoes that I brought mostly for bush walks or my regular shoes. Yes, my feet paid a price for wearing sandals the entire time, namely Tetse fly bites, but I needlessly carried around two extra pairs of shoes that were too nice to justify tossing out.

Anyway, I am having fun with Photoshop Elements 3.0, even with my limited knowledge, and I will be downloading more photos. It only takes anywhere from about 3 - 5 minutes to improve a photo that has decent composition but is lacking in other areas. The before and after difference is quite amazing.

I will say that although it was a very serious investment, that I am extremely pleased with the results I have been able to achieve by upgrading my photo equipment. I do think it was important to have easy access to 640mm of zoom rather than cutting myself off any shorter.

One final thought for now...having my own private vehicle for about 2/3 of the time was a true blessing. Fortunately, I did not have to pay one cent extra for this, as it was just the luck of the draw that I was in certain camps at the right time. I mean while Kasaka was certainly not hurting for guests on my final night (with a total of 12 guests in camp), for the first two nights there were no other guests). Only Simbambili and Chongwe River Camp seemed to be near full the entire time. Fortunately, however, this did not diminish the experience as they were both very well equipped to handle large groups (and when I say large, I am talking about a maximum of 16 guests at each camp, which is about the largest camp/lodge that I would ever want to visit).

Anyway, time to play with Photoshop and put up some more photos!

I haven't read all the posts in this thread yet...you know me, I had to go straight to the photos. It took me a while to get through all of them.

Good stuff, especially the leopard mother and her cub. Looks like you've been practicing your photography Rocco.

And after being absent from Fodor's all these months I thought for sure I'd come back and read about your adventures with wild dogs. What happened? Don't they know how big of a dog lover you are?
Maybe on your next trip...in the meantime, I've got lots to read about and catch up with on the board, along with lots of new people too.
I'll be waiting to see the rest of your photos.

Divewop,

I was SO confused half the time on what I should do with my camera! Then, others would offer advice, and it always seemed to contradict the last person's advice.

I do think the most important key to whatever success I enjoyed was having an adequate zoom lens and plenty of memory and batteries. Also, it was nice to be the only game drive passenger, for the most part, while in Zambia.

I am just going crazy trying to find a photo of a Civet that I captured. Civets are so hard to find and then once they are found it is next to impossible to get a good photo. So, I finally got a good photo of a civet and now it is missing. This happened on my 12 hour game drive at Luangwa River Lodge yet when I search those photos I don't find it anywhere. Oh well.

Looking forward to this weekend so I may download some more photos. Hopefully within about a week I will be able to make some large prints and start upgrading my current framed photos. Honestly, looking around my home and office, few of my existing pictures will survive and will instead be nothing more than easy prey for my new photos!

A few more new photos have been posted on this newer album:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/rocco/2005_favorites

It consists of 100 photos now and most of them have been run through Photoshop Elements.

Rocco, really excellent photos. Do you want to start a new thread -- these may get lost at the bottom of such a long thread, and you have some of the best leopard photos I have seen, plus lots of other interesting photos, including some great bird photos.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will start a new thread for my newest photos.

Dear Rocco,
Better late than never! I searched and found your trip report, and I have read it twice, and I can't figure out where to find your photos, would you post the site please??? I'm sure it's right here under my nose but I'm tired of looking.

The trip report was awesome, you guys really know how to travel. I also, liked the part about the bike ride, esp because last summer I truly enjoyed that part of my transfer because as you described, it is a peek at the 'real' Africa, the part with people in it going about their lives. You're cool.

I'm glad you did not have my experience at Puku Ridge with all the other vehicles. Maybe it was the time of year.

I laughed when reading that the sounds in the LZNP were scarey at night - I still get adrenaline rushes when I remember some of my encounters there!

I'm planning another trip for June, and after considering camps in the Sabi Sands, I went with my heart and will be returning to Botswana (Botswana is to me what Zambia is to you) with a side trip to Namibia. It helped to hear from you that Sabi is the "lite Africa" because that is the same impression I got. Well I didn't judge solely upon impression because I stayed years ago at Mala Mala but anyway. Back to remoteness.

Yesterday I bought my third dog and I'm a little afraid of how I'm gonna feel leaving them for 3 weeks next June!! Who takes care of yours?

Thank you for an enjoyable read.

Lin,

First things first. Congratulations on doggie #3!

As far as who takes care of my dogs, for my 6 dogs at home, we have a live-in housekeeper / dog nanny who doesn't mind working three weeks straight while we are gone. Full pay, half the work. It does get expensive but I would never abandon my dogs or give them away to a suspect home. We have turned away so many people who wanted these dogs as puppies...we are left with the consequences, but at least I can sleep well at night knowing that these animals are well looked after.

Okay...my photos! Here you go...I have simplified things recently by signing up for my own webpage on Kodak Gallery. It is something like $20 per year but once you have your own web page, the size and quality of the photos displayed increases and it is just so much easier to share galleries with a dedicated webpage.

www.kodakgallery.com/rocco

The most recent three albums are from my safari last month, including one dedicated completely to the conservation effort in Zambia.

About Puku Ridge...the gameviewing was the best out of any camp/lodge I visited. We largely stayed away from the busy Mfuwe area and concentrated on the areas south of there. The only other vehicles we saw were Kafunta and Nkwali, and never more than one other vehicle at once. Plus, a suspect reputation, as Puku Ridge seems to have, does have its benefits. I enjoyed private game drives during my entire three night stay, while the vehicles I saw from the other camps were full. Having your own vehicle is definitely the best possible experience, as you don't have to be considerate of other guests and you are always in position for the best possible photos.

The only camp where we had a full vehicle was Simbambili and it was a constant tug o' war so that everybody had an opportunity from the best angle that worked for them. Also, it was always a vote whether we were going to look for lions, go off to a leopard sighting or whatever. While I believe we all got along very well, I wouldn't have liked a similar experience for the duration of my safari. As it worked out, I had a private vehicle about 80% of the time in Zambia (12 days) and 0% of the time in South Africa (3 days).

I am glad to see that you are going back to Botswana. While I would be lying if I said that I did not really like the Sabi Sand, I still stand by my words that the Sabi Sand (and places like Madikwe and Phinda and other areas around Kruger besides the Sabi Sand) are, in fact, "Africa Lite." Tastes great, but it is also less filling!

I hope you enjoy my photos. Please feel free to run a slide show of my photos and press pause to leave glowing comments for any photo that you particularly like!

OK, I have bookmarked your kodak website and will enjoy it at my leisure (leaving glowing comments of course!). Thanks for the tip about the web page, I might just try that myself. I have just finally edited and readied my photos from July/Aug (soo slow) and I want to post them.

I see there's a lot to be said for visiting Zambia in the shoulder season. It's awesome that you had so much private time in the vehicles and camps. We were all alone at Tafika for a day - that was nice! But the vehicles at Puku Ridge had 7 people in them, that is, the first night we arrived and the following morning, we only had 4 but 3 more arrived for the next evening game drive. We asked for another car but they didn't have one, so we opted to skip that game drive. I know exactly what you mean about everyone having a different agenda, and each person is feeling 'this is my big trip to Africa and I want to see such and such' but they're all different depending upon their luck at prior camps. Ugh. Last trip I booked a private car at Savuti and Tafika and was glad.

Well I'll post again after I look at your pix. Nothing to do this weekend since I'm home with my puppy!