I've only been on one safari last August, so I'm by no means an expert, but I did a lot of research and read the forums often and received a lot of great advice from many people on the Fodors Kenya forum.

I'll let the experts comment more thoroughly on your itinerary, but I'm always surprised that tours have only 2 nights in the Masai Mara, I spent 4 nights and wish it had been longer as the wildlife sightings and photo opportunities from the Mara were by far the best. I went to Ol Pejeta and found the wild life sightings not at all up to par with the Mara although there were a few species that were different, but predator sightings were more challanging than in either the Mara or Amboseli, but maybe I was unlucky. Only thing that I saw an abundance of were Rhino, but I also saw Rhino in the Mara. I was lucky in Amboseli as I had good sightings and your itinerary only has one night which leaves you with just two game drives in Amboseli.

The migration generally ends in the Mara in October and personally I'd want to be certain to catch this incredible experience at it's best, and not wait until the end of October. You can never predict when the migration will start/stop each year and I'd personally prefer knowing I wasn't at what is generally the tail end of the migration. It is true (and I usually agree) that many tour operators and people will tell you to save the best for last, but as your itineary puts you in the Mara at the end of October, I'd personnaly want to take my chances of catching the migration at it's best earlier in the month. Again, I'll let the experts address this as they may have experienced the Mara at the end of October.

No matter what you decide upon, I'm certain you'll have an incredible safari and take thousands of photos which you won't have time to sort through before you start planning your second safari!

www.porini.com/customer-comments.html?sub=customer-photos

www.perini.com Safar Camps get best reviews here

present many great photo ops...

might check tham out also to truly get out there

with the game...

I would never do less than 3/nts in the Masai Mara... take 1/nt from El Karama to do so.

Also, and I've seen this often but don't understand why some companies have you visit Lk. Nakuru and then drive (1/hr south) right past Lk. Naivasha on your way (4/hrs south) to the Mara, only to then return from Mara (north 4/hrs) to Naivasha. Besides, staying at Keekorok (which as the some of the herds commence return to Serengeti is good location) which is at the farthest south in the Mara will be an even longer drive (5-6/hrs north) to Naivasha... instead, suggest you visit Nakuru, then Naivasha, then the Mara.

Leaving the Mara for Amboseli will be a long drive, but doable.

Otherwise, good itinerary and mid-priced lodging, with Elsa's being the WOW!

A double milestone like yours can only be properly celebrated with a trip to Africa—good choice!

Based on your photo goals, I think you are on the right track. You can celebrate #25 in Zambia. Or go there much sooner.

As the others have mentioned 2 nights in the Mara is insufficient, especially for photographers. I like Sandi’s idea of -1 from El Karama and +1 to Mara. Nyjcv’s comment of wanting more than 4 nts in the Mara is typical. I’ve never done less than 6.

With the additional night in the Mara you have a very nice trip that will show you some of Kenya’s best areas. I wonder if you are envisioning more hours on the savanna looking for unique shots, though, and less time driving park to park on a highway with minimal photo ops.

Here are some approx. drive times and comments. My suggestions would likely increase the cost of your trip and even add a day or so.

NBO to El-Karama = about 5 hours, I don’t know El Karama, but it is 5 hours to Lewa Downs, in that same general area

You could fly on a scheduled flight to Nanyuki Airstrip and have your guide & vehicle meet you there and drive to El-Karama. Or there is a scheduled flight right to the Lewa Downs Airstrip if you stayed there instead. Lewa is a top notch place for wildlife, conservation, photography. May be the best place in Africa to see black and white rhinos. Likely more expensive than El Karama. Lewa is worthy of 3 nights for sure.

El Karama to Samburu = about 2 hours, again not sure just where El Karama is

Samburu to Meru = 3 hours (but we took a bumpy dirt shortcut, so maybe more on a real road)

Meru does not have the wildlife of other areas. I was just there in Sept and enjoyed my 3 nts in search of Lesser Kudu, among other things. We could easily drive an hour with no mammal sightings. This area also has tse tses, though I’ve been told not where Elsa’s Kopje property is located. I’ll include my photo album to show the kinds of animals I saw. The 2 cheetah were extremely lucky, not typical, and the only predators in 3 nights.

http://picasaweb.google.com/VioletteWood/MeruPhotosForOnline?authkey=Gv1sRgCO2Aj_-E1sjTsgE#

You might also find this helpful regarding Meru: http://www.fodors.com/community/africa-the-middle-east/sell-me-on-meru-in-kenya.cfm

It will be extremely hot in Oct. in Meru. It was probably in the 90s midday in Sept. Not trying to discourage you on Meru, but you should be go there knowing what to expect. Elsa’s is your nicest accommodation of the trip, but you could put in a fancy place somewhere else.

Meru to Ol Pejeta = Elsa’s Kopje info sheet shows 3 hours.

Ol Pejeta to Lake Nakuru = 3 hours

Nakuru to Mara = (see Sandi’s details)

You could fly from Nakuru (actually from Naivasha, which is where the airstrip is for guests flying out of Nakuru--about an hour from Nakuru) and meet your guide—a different guide. If it seems odd to be dropping off and picking up guides, it is not. I did that on my last trip and it worked well. Of course the flights and having a couple of guides driving with an empty vehicle adds to the cost. But I found it was worth it. I stayed in lower cost accommodations to make the cost work out.

Mara to Naivasha = (see Sandi’s details)
From a photography standpoint, I think you’d be better spending a day somewhere else. I have not been to Naivasha and even have a recent question posted on Crescent Island, but I think this day could be put to better use—such as yet another night in the Mara for 4 nts. Since you are going to Nakuru, that is more reason to swap Naivasha for more Mara time.

I think Naivasha is in there to make the drive more logical. If you drove Mara to Amboseli, I think it would be close to 10 hours of driving.

Naivasha to Amboseli = 4.5 hours

Just one night in Amboseli? I've actually stayed just one night that and it was fine, but I was not a semi-pro photographer who probably would like a decent chance of getting Mt. Kili. If photographing the mountain without clouds is a goal, I think you need 2 nights to increase your odds. If Mt. Kili is not a goal, I'd drop Amboseli altogether for more another night elsewere.

Amboseli to NBO = 4 hours

Ask any semi-pro photographer how many days they’d spend in the Mara on a 2 week trip, and you’d never get 2 or 3.

The discussion on this thread may interest you.
http://www.fodors.com/community/africa-the-middle-east/best-spots-for-photography.cfm

Just saw your concern with flights and equipment. So you may prefer the extra hours in the vehicles. There are threads on cameras on planes that may ease your mind. Safari and photographers are a common combo.

Thanks to you all for your imput.

In general- we told Wildtrek that we were concerned about large crowds of vehicles at sites in Kenya- which is why they recommended smaller parks and reserves.(and less time at the Mara) I've requested a map with the locations marked so I can see just where we're going, and avoid backtracking as you mentioned, Sandi.

I agree about Amboseli, atravelynn- I think I'd like to stay there at least one more night. After all- it's not every day you can shoot Kilimanjaro!!!

I also have a question about vehicles. Since we'll just be the two of us in the vehicle, the only ones we'll have to fight over prime picture-taking spots are each other. But I have a question about the vehicle itself. They used closed vehicles with pop-up tops, as opposed to open vehicles. From one standpoint it would be good to have a little less dust to worry about with the cameras, but are we sacrificing viewing opportunities for this?

will check out the camera/plane threads...thanks! Smaller planes only allow 30-33 lbs. pp...that's cutting it pretty tight. But maybe they've come up with other ways to get around it!

If doing driving safaris around Kenya or Tanzania, by law you have to be in closed vehicles for safety reasons. Lousy roads, dust, gravel, wet, etc. The vehicles with pop-tops and windows work just fine for photo taking.

If you were doing a flying safari using vehicles/guides of particular lodges/camps, often these will be "open" sides, but not all properties use open vehicles. And, they'd be on a shared basis with other guests unless you pay for "exclusive use of vehicle" at a sizeable daily fee.

Yes, you're limited to 33/lbs on small planes, but unless your camera equipment weighs as much as the duffle containing your cloths, you can often get away with reasonable amount of equipment that sits on floor between your feet. Much more than that... they'll assess an overweight fee (even at few $$s per Kg, it's a fee).

While many of us return visitors may prefer to spend more time at one area (i.e, the Mara) vs another, the stop at Naivasha, while no game per se (though Oserian Wildlife Conservancy is nearby), people stop here as an "out-of-vehicle" day with visit to Crescent Island for walking amongst tame game. Or visit at Hell's Gate for climbing.

As Lynn mentions, there is a flight from Naivasha to the Mara, departing 3:15pm, arriving a bit after 4pm, where you're met and with game drive to your lodge/camp. This can be an alternative, but you'd then have WT send another vehicle/guide for your use. Likewise, from the Mara, there is a 2pm flight to Amboseli, where here too you either use the vehicle/guide of the lodge shared with others, or WT provides another vehicle/guide. If not the 2pm flight (as some properties assess a surcharge for late departures... usual departures are 10am), you can fly 11am from Mara to NBO, connect here for 2pm flight to Amboseli. No matter whether you drive to Amboseli or fly, you won't arrive till late-afternoon on that first night.

Yes, flights as mentioned add to your costs(between $160-$200/person per segment), and if you then have new private vehicle/guide meet at each, know that there's one leg they drive empty and you pay for that.

Review the info provided and discuss further with WT.

Sounds like you will be up for a very active " Safari time" born in Kenya to a family in Safari business, hence lots of safaris till now, and also working on the whole tourism business, id advice that you will probably need a break in between, or you could have taken your last days at the coast in Kenya or Zanzibar "washing the dust off" we call it, just relaxing at the beach, and enjoying the sun i would advise to places like tiwi beach or diani where there is not so much husstle and people or in Lamu, Watamu or Zanzibar before jetting off, i like the fact that you chose Maasai Mara and Amboseli as your last trips as you know this places are full of wildlife and once you go there and see everything it gets hard to find other parks as interesting.

You plan to stay 14 nights in Kenya and your itinerary have you sleeping in 9 different places ( including 1 night in Nairobi ) In my opinion too much moving around .

You want to avoid large crowds of people and vehicles .
Nakuru is very beautiful but is not a good place to avoid crowds.Is a very small park with lots of vehicles ( even some buss ), electric lines and houses in the background , maybe not what you are looking for.

In the Mara you can avoid crowds , just tell your guide you want that and he will be able to do it most of the time . You could also visit a private conservation in the area ( like Olare Orok ) Excellent wildlife with no crowds at all.
The Masai Mara has no comparison in terms of wildlife viewing and photography opportunities , plus October you have a good chance to hit the migration which is unique .
In my last visit to the area i combine 2 days inside the reserve with 3 in the conservancy , it was perfect for me.

In Laikipia i would choose 2 location ( maybe Samburu and a private reserve ) Samburu has more visitors than Meru but better wildlife viewing and much nicer scenery ( in my humble opinion )

I Have never been to Amboseli but going there just for one night does not seem a good plan to me . Either skip it or go for 3 nights.

Finally , my camera backpack weights more than 10 kilos and i never had problems flying small planes in Kenya??

Thanks you for your input!

Paco- that's good to know that you haven't had issues with your luggage- how much did your clothing bag weigh? I assumed the total on the plane had to be 15 kilos per person, including clothing and camera gear. Am I wrong?

So- if we were to reduce the number of parks and/or lodges down to just a few- where would you suggest?

Worrying about weight limits is common before a safari. I've been to Africa three times and on safari twice. For both safaris I was crazy with worry over the weight of my bags because I was on small planes with the 33lb limit. However, both times it just wasn't an issue. Here is my advice for what it is worth:

1) Pack as light as possible and do laundry at the camps. The pants that dry overnight are a Godsend!
2) If you are over the limit on bags, take your camera out and wear it around your neck (the bonus: aerial photos! )
3) If they aren't weighing and just "eye-balling" it, make sure you have the pack on your back and stand behind someone who has much larger bags than you do.

I did both of my safaris successfully with just a carry-on and a camera bag (with 1 SLR, 3 lenses, 1 back-up small camera along with battery chargers, memory cards, and a memory card back-up device). One good thing about traveling to Africa - it really teaches you how to pack and what you really can live without! My parents were very impressed that I could do Italy with just a carry on (which included a week on land and then a 12 night Mediterranean cruise with formal wear). I told them that Africa has taught me many valuable lessons - not the least of which is efficient packing!

How I envy you; I have severe Kenya withdrawal..so we were there in Sept. Loved Laikipia immensely; so glad I chose it and never waivered as I was trying to go everywhere! Agree that you must stay at least 4 n in Mara; you will have so many photo ops and of course you need to take time to put the camera down and just enjoy. I think it takes a full day just to get the lay of the land and talk to your guide about your wants and needs...

Laikipia is remote and full of amazing animals to photograph - Grevy Zebras - one of the most beautiful animals I've ever seen, Retriculated Giraffe, also very photogenic and of course ellies, which are there but also abundant in Amboselli.

We had issues with our bags and I think the gate agent at Safarilink was just testing us - a lttle over, not much money, but DH smiled at her and joked and she waved us on. I had gifts in there and explained it and she agreed gifts were impt to her country! Never looked.

I have now packed for 2wks in Argentina - a small backpack like the ones full of schoolbooks - no frame, not bulky... and I wont be on safari either, but have learned to get by with less - buy the lightweight pants/shirts - Basspro for $25! You don't need much and laundry is usually done for you. If I can do it - always been an overpacker - you can.....Save the space for your gear and go minimally on clothes. If you need something there are stops you can make and buy it. I also would leave things behind for the housekeeper's kids, whatever that I purchased cheap at Walmart or sales at Target...they really appreciated it - and needed the tennis shoes, pants, tees, etc.

Came home with memories not clothes.

I stressed over our itinerary for a year...keep it simple, do not rush - I guarantee you will be going back and can see what you think you've missed on the next trip.

We've been to Zambia too, lovely place; but Kenya - stole my heart.

Also,Samburu Tribes are incredible to photograph. If you feel you need to give them something, give a donation towards a goat...that is what the women need. They refused money from us. I have pics here - you can see the Samburus and the landscape of Laikipia-not professional, but good memory keepers for us.
http://flickr.com/gp/54893436@N08/532Lx8
HOPE it works; Flickr sometimes doesnt share like it should! I can send them to you if not.

Have a great time and don't stress; it will be wonderful...
MB

cjryan- thanks for your personal experience on the smaller planes with camera gear. Did you have your clothes and camera gear in the same pack?

moneyburns- I really appreciate your take on Laikipia! And your pictures are great- Ol Malo looked like a lovely place! We've traveled quite a bit and are pretty good about packing light...it's just the camera gear that's the concern.

Have any of you stayed at lodges that only had power at the main house? How difficult was it to have your batteries charged, etc.? Our first days at El Karama will only have power at the main building. We'll definitely need to rechrge camera batteries, and upload pictures to laptop.

I'm getting SO excited for this...9 months and counting!

heymo, I had my camera equipment in a separate, smaller pack that I called my "purse." I may have put one of the lenses in the carry-on during my last trip.

Good luck with your trip planning - I know you'll have a wonderful time whatever you decide as far as itinerary! I was only in Kenya briefly during the migration and it was just a day drive (I was based in Tanzania) so I'll be interested to see how you like Kenya. I just found out that experts predict that lions will be extinct in 9 years...I was shocked! So I have to plan at least one or two more trips to see the cats before they are gone. Perhaps Kenya will be next on the list. I'll be looking forward to hear about your experiences!

Congrats on your first safari planning! You will have a great time.

On charging: it was very easy to charge electronics in the main building where we stayed, like Ndutu. We would plug things in at the bar, along with lots of other people charging items, while having a drink. Not problem.

We did bring car charger adapters, so we could always charge off the car batteries when out on game drives. We used this option a couple times. Super easy, too. (Makes sure you know how all the pieces of your equipment works before you go).

Just to clarify about luggage: your main bag that normally gets loaded in the cargo/belly of the small planes can be up to 15 kilos per person, but you can have your camera bag or purse that can go on your lap or at your feet, which is separate from the 15 kilo bag. This was my understanding when we were on safari, and how we traveled. My camera bag also holds other items I might need within easy reach, and doubles as my purse.

We are in the middle of planning our second Kenya trip for early 2012, and will enjoy hearing about your plans. Have fun!

As Local mentions, you can charge batteries in the car. Talk to your safari provider about this option in the planning stages. With only 2 of you, there should be no problem of getting enough recharge time in the car.

How many batteris do you pack? I like to take at least 4 for peace of mind just in case there is a problem recharging, or what if you lose a battery, or it malfunctions? I also take 2 rechargers for the same reason. With 2 people bringing items, you may not need to double up as much.


As to the type of vehicle, while I prefer completely open vehicles, that's not possible where you are going. Whatever vehicle I'm in, it always works fine. You can shoot from the side windows easily. I never find myself lamenting the transport option. The big thing is you are just two and can move around at will.

Since you are photographers, ask about bean bags to steady your cameras. Even if you have screw-on mounts, you may find yourself taking shots with an unmounted camera. You can even bring your own beanbag to be sure you have one.

To save on packing weight for flts: wear your binocs and wear a safari vest and put the heavy things in there.

I'll stick in a link to my report, below, in which I list # of vehicles per sighting in Kenya, including 2 spots in the Mara. You'll see at some predators there were many cars, but we managed to spend time ALONE or with just a couple of vehicles for cheetahs and a leopard. Easy to find lions to yourself.

It just takes patience and a willingness to stay out longer or go to areas further afield where you may spend a great time searching. Make sure your safari provider knows your goals up front.

As I state in the report, in general in the Mara (in Sept prime time)

"I’d break down the vehicle encounters throughout the Mara, with the exception of waiting at the river crossings as:

80% of the time, no other vehicles in sight—pretty good considering the landscape is mostly flat and it is possible to see for miles, viewing vehicles on the horizon

15% of the time, other vehicles were visible as we drove

5% of the time, we shared sightings with at least one other vehicle"

At the river crossings, there were a lot of vehicles most of the time. Again, plan to spend all day there with a lunch box and you may end up the SOLE vehicle at the river as I was, watching the herds mulling over the decision to cross.

That is yet another reason to extend days in the Mara. If you wish to see a crossing, it can eat up a whole day, or certainly many hours waiting. In Oct, the herds may be heading back across the river to the Serengeti. You can never guarantee or even predict crossings. This last trip I saw 3 in one day for a total of 4. Some people saw 12 in a week. In other trips, I saw 1 in 8 or 9 days, or 0 in 6 days, all during seasons when crossings occur.

Lots to consider, but none of what you've written so far is bad. It's just how to optimize your time and budget in accordance with your expectations.

http://www.fodors.com/community/africa-the-middle-east/sept-private-drive-fly-of-carssighting-budget-kws-bandas-birds-more.cfm

Technically the 15Kg/33-lbs is for everything.
That said, you can have a carryon and camera equipment bag at reasonable weight, to sit on lap or floor (there are few planes with overhead bins and if there are, no larger than to maybe fit a flat portfolio).

It's when arriving a weigh-in (only done in Nairobi, not out on the park/reserve airstrips) and if carryon/camera bags obviously look heavy or agent wants to weigh, that it can become an issue. Why it's best to just hand over the duffle for weighing and hold back on the other two.

You have to realize that these planes not only transport passengers, but also supplies and even equipment for lodges/camps, so pilot has to carefully distribute paxs weight, baggage and supplies properly inside.

Beth, my clothing bag weighs around 12 kg ( including some photographic material ) plus 10/11 kg my backpack.
I put my carry-on bag in the cargo and my backpack goes under my feet.

When i had to charge batteries in the main area i never had any issue.There is always plenty of time between morning and afternoon activities and also after the p.m. activities.
Also i always have spare batteries just in case.

With your time frame and what you seem to like to see i will do 3 days in Samburu , 3 days in Laikipia ( many options here El Kamara , Lewa , Borana , Loisaba , Ol Pejeta , Sosiam and more ) 4 days in the Mara and 3 in Amboseli , maybe even more days in the Mara if you stay both inside the reserve and in a conservancy.
This will involve flying of course .

This is how i see it but i am not an expert at planning!!!
My last visit to Kenya was last October and our itinerary was 5 days in the Mara area and 4 days in Meru.

Good luck.

Qwovadis gave you an option for reducing #s in the Mara--private reserves such as Porini or Kicheche. Of course these cost more.

I like Paco's advice of where to go. I'd take a day from Amboseli and add it to the Mara.

On my recent trip where I wanted to maximize wildlife sightings, I chose:

2 Aberdare for the possibility of giant forest hogs and sykes monkeys--beautiful forest scenery and several zones of varying vegetation

3 Meru--I was interested in Lesser Kudu

1 Shaba (next to Samburu/Buffalo Springs, Samburu/Buffalo Springs game drives possible) for stunning red backdrop of cliffs.

3 Buffalo Springs/Samburu--I agree with Paco that the scenery here exceeds that of Meru

FLY--the only flight
8 Mara, Talek are and Mara Triangle

I ran into a group of serious photographers who were spending 2 weeks in the Mara (and nowhere else) in mid-Sept. They were traveling on a budget and chose to stay at the 2 places I did: Fig Tree and Mara Serena

This was 3 weeks and I don't know if you have that much time. But the cost, using Eastern and Southern in Nairobi, was very good.

cjryan, sandi, atravelynn, PacoAheado- thanks for all the great info. My head is spinning!

Need to talk to the travel rep to see where we can trim and sneak in another night at Amboseli and the Mara. Elsamere is a must, I guess, since they said it takes too long to get from the Mara to Amboseli.

I was going to ask him about reversing the order- start at Amboseli or the Mara and heading off from there. However- I believe we'd have an issue getting from Else Kopje back to Nairobi as it looks like quite a longer drive than from Amboseli to Nairobi.

A lot to consider...and I thank you all for your invaluable insight!

As most people know, I'm a strong believer in "save the best for last" thus that's the Masai Mara.

You can start by heading south to Amboseli, then head north (with stop in NBO for lunch) via Elsemere/Naivasha, onto Laikipia, then Samburu and/or Meru. There are flights from both Samburu or Meru to the Mara, where you can have second guide/vehicle meet for stay here; you can then drive or fly back to NBO.

Sounds like a good plan, Sandi- writing to Wildtrek now!

Okay- so I've received a quote from another tour company that wants us to choose between Amboseli and Samburu. We'll stay 3-4 days at Masai Mara, and will include smaller pasrks as well.

So- if you had to choose- which would you pick? Amboseli or Samburu?

Samburu!

Another vote for Samburu.

I think I posted a link earlier that contains this info, but I recall being intrigued way back when by this itinerary designed for photograpy in a trip departing around November.

http://www.fodors.com/community/africa-the-middle-east/best-spots-for-photography.cfm

Day 1- Day 6: Upon arrival at the Nairobi Airport, who will be met by a Safariline Africa driver guide and depart to Samburu National Reserve, notice the change in landscape as we drive into the hot dry heat of the arid Samburu Reserve in the Northern Frontier District. This harsh, incredibly photogenic region is home to rare and endemic species: Grevy's Zebra, Somali Ostrich, Beisa Oryx, Gerenuk, Olive Baboon, Kirk Dik-Dik and Reticulated Giraffe. We will spend the next six days exploring this 'photographer's heaven': fantastic scenery, abundant wildlife and strong cultural experience. Samburu Serena captures the robust rhythms of riverside and three overnights will be spent in this rustic but yet sophisticated Lodge with the next three nights at Sarova Shaba. There will be opportunity to visit the three national parks; Shaba, Buffalo Springs and Samburu National reserve.

Day 7 – Day 8: Lake Nakuru National Park
Today's drive is through some of the most exciting scenery giving you an unrivalled view of the majestic Great Rift Valley. The main attraction of Lake Nakuru is the thousands of pink Flamingos and Pelican, a perfect place to experience one of the world's greatest ornithological spectacles; search for the endangered Black and White Rhino who have found a safe haven here and enjoy the game. Leave with picnic for full day game drives. Accommodation will be in a mobile camp with camp bed. Gourmet meals will be served by a skilled cook who will be traveling with you on the safari.

Day 9 – Day 11
We would particularly recommend you camp for at least three nights in the Mara so that you can have the flexibility of moving from one area to the other. The plains from Mara river to Soit Ololol Escarpment (Esoit Oloololo or Siria), at the west part, is a favourite haunt for Masai Mara's famous black-maned lions, which usually walk these grasslands searching for prey and doze beneath the scattered acacia trees during the day. This area holds beautiful scenic, the flat topped trees vanishing in the haze before the backdrop of the far-off bluish mountains. Another place to find lions is Musiara Swamps, which actually remain dry for a great part of the year. Lions are probably the major attraction in Masai Mara since their population here is the largest in Kenya. Other big five, plain games and birds are in abundance. Accommodation will be in a mobile camp where breakfast and dinner will be served.

Day 12 – Day 14
Leave for the Mara Triangle where you spend three overnights. Settle into your luxury en suite accommodation in Mara Serena Lodge set on the saddle of a hill overlooking the 1,800sq-km of the Masai Mara Triangle. It is on this very terrain stretching endlessly before the lodge where the annual migration takes place. The lodge has been designed to mirror a traditional Masai village with the guest rooms located in individually domed huts grouped in a circular manner. Each room has a private balcony with views that stretch over the vast Africa landscape. Full day game drives reveal the large herds of buffalo, elephant, cheetah, impala, hyena ... This is definitely better then watching Discovery Channel as you are part of the spectacle!

Day 15: Enjoy an early morning game drive followed by breakfast back at the lodge. Depart by road back to Nairobi to arrive in the late afternoon. Later transfer will be provided to the airport for your outbound flight.


Having recently returned from 4 nts in the Samburu region, I believe it offered great photo ops. If you were staying 6 nts, I'd consider one nt in Shaba because I think photographing the red cliffs is best done at sunset and I don't think you can get back to Samburu Serena from Shaba if you are taking pics near sunset. I stayed one night at Shaba at the lovely Shaba Sarova to see those red cliffs.

ARGH!!! My brain is hurting!!! Such choices...I've at least come to the decision that I do not want to have to mess with in-country flights, with the benefit of being able to take whatever camera equipment I want and the added bonus of staying with the same guide and driver, as I know from past trips is beneficial- they get to know you and what you're looking for and I think give you better service.

With that in mind...

Here is the itinerary sent by the second tour operator...
Day 1: arrive Nrb.

Day 2+3: transfer to the Aberdares/Mt.kenya area , staying @ Sangare Conservancy www.ontdek-kenya-safaris.com/vacation-resorts.html .

Day 4: visit Solio Rhino Ranch + overnight at the Ark a Treehotel in the Aberdares. This is very nice for close shoot-up of elephants, buffaloes as they come to drink at the water hole .

Day 5 +6: Transfer to the Rift Valley @ Sunbird Lodge www.ontdek-kenya-safaris.com/honeymoon-destination.html + Day 6 full day at Nakuru National park.

Day 7,8,9: Masai Mara , @ Mara Leisure Camp or Ashnil Camp

Day 10,: Acacia Camp www.ontdek-kenya-safaris.com/adventure-resort.html , *** this camp is rustic and not as top lux as the others in the itinerary but we need it break the otherwise long journey from Mara > Amboseli. Alternative would be taking a night in Nrb hotel. The camp has giraffes, elands, gazelles and zebras. We get very positive feedbacks about Acacia from our clients + the journey to Amboseli is much shorter as you won't have to clear the Nrb traffic jam.

Day 11,12,13 : Amboseli @ Kilima camp

Day 14: Lunch at Acacia Camp. Evening flight out.

Alternately, I've asked my guy at Wildtrek if we can skip one night at El Karama and add it at the end to Amboseli or Masai Mara.

The itinerary you sent atravlynn sounds very appealing as well.

I believe the reason Wildtrek is keen on us staying at El Karama is there will be very few people there, and there is a professional wildlife photographer on staff who would be available for any assistance we'd need. Though we are professionals- this will be our first wildlife photography trip.

I welcome your comments...and thank you for your patience!

Sorry- one more question I keep meaning to ask:

What is the general rule for tipping guides, drivers? We will be on a private safari with (I'm assuming) the same guide and driver the whole time.

Comment re Ashnil Camp in the Mara... don't!
Why? And though my "don't" seems quite stridant, know that while it's a lovely camp, it was built after many protests for where it was being built... in the middle of a rhino breeding area with concrete galore, is fenced... still the owners built here. It's also used by many large European tour operators! So what many feel is if visitors who are aware of the situation would boycott, maybe they'll go out of business. We can hope!

There's a thread on here and on Trip Advisor on the subject (I'm terrible in finding such links... if someone else is better and can assist, great).

Personally, I'd still prefer Samburu over Amboseli.

As to tipping: done so at conclusion of the service, i.e., when departing stay at lodge/camp and for guide/driver at end of the safari.

Thanks, sandi. I was referring to how much to tip? ANy guidelines?

I would absolutely agree- I would not want to stay at a camp that so blatanly disregarded the affect on the environment...thanks for pointing that out!

There are loads of threads on the subject to "tipping".
Do a search!

Thanks sandi. Tried once with no answers, will try again.

Okay- after looking at the lodging choices from the second tour company (Ontdek Kenya Safaris) I am less than impressed. We've only cut down from 8 locations to 6, and our actual anniversary nigt they have us staying at a "less than luxury" tented camp as a layover to get from Masai Mara to Amboseli. Not really what I had in mind!


Would we be absolutely crazy to skip Masai Mara, and focus on Samburu/Shaba/Meru, Adberdares and Lake Nakuru and maybe Amboseli at the end (or beginning?)

Oh, don't skip the Mara! It's the "jewel of Kenya", and it's so very worth seeing.

I hope they can work out something better for your anniversary night, but I wouldn't recommend skipping the Mara if there's any way to arrange things.

I'd never skip the Mara.
Not on any of my trips to Kenya in all these years have I not stopped in the Mara. Even if, in my case, just to catch up with friends and enjoy a day of game drives... it never disappoints.

I'd sooner skip Amboseli, as you already have an "elephant" park.

Skipping the Mara in October on a first safari to Kenya is crazy talk.

It would be akin to skipping the Louvre on a first trip to Paris. Unless you had musiaphobia (fear of museums) you should never omit the Louvre from a Paris itinerary.

Unless you have wildebeest-and/or-zebra-big-herd-o-phobia, you should definitely go to the Mara.

If you don't like your current travel company, there are many more. One thing I wouldn't do is alter a great itinerary to force your anniversary night to fall on the ideal lodging. Celebrate before or after if needed. Heck, celebrate several times.


Playing Online detective here, I think you googled “Best parks in Kenya for Photography”
You got this site: http://www.ontdek-kenya-safaris.com/which-is-the-best-kenya-safari-park-for-wildlife-photography-safaris.html

They state Amboseli is THE place to go in Kenya for photography.

Well, Amboseli is one of the very few spots in Kenya that allow for the unique shot of Kilimanjaro. So if that is a goal, then indeed Amboseli is your place. This company also is big in walking safaris and areas near Amboseli work well for walking and for horseback riding.

But check out this trip catering to photographers, escorted by a pro. I know it is older, but the itinerary is the point.
http://www.kenyasafaripackages.com/kenyaphotographicsafari2006/photosafari-kenya.htm

One of the most respected photo travel companies is Von Os. Look what they do:
http://www.photosafaris.com/photography-trips-2011/kenya-wildlife-photo-tour/

Here are some possibilities that would include Amboseli, Nakuru, Samburu, Mara, offering about as diverse and picturesque landscape, animal variety, as you can get, along with opportunities for cultural/people shots*:

All Driving. I like the 2nd one.

1 Arrive
2-3 Drive to Amboseli, 4 to 4.5 hours
4 Morning views of Amboseli, drive about 8 hours to Nakuru
5 Day in Nakuru
6 Morning in Nakuru and drive back to NBO
7-9 Drive NBO to Samburu, a good 6 hours
10 Drive back to NBO
11 Drive NBO to Mara, 6-7 hours
12-14 In Mara
15 Drive back to NBO for eve flt

1 Arrive
2-4Drive 6+ hours NBO to Samburu
5-6 Drive Samburu to Nakuru, about 7 hours
7-9 Drive about 8 hours Nakuru to Amboseli
10 Morning views of Amboseli, drive to perhaps Naivasha enroute to Mara, about 4 hours
11-14 Drive to Mara, 6-7 hours
15 Drive back to NBO for eve flt

You may want to investigate flights some more. Perhaps start a new thread asking serious photographers with massive equipment how they have managed flying around Kenya.

*For pictures of people, you may be aware that many of the people just going about their business do not like to be photographed. There are numerous opportunities for cultural visits, in which a fee is paid, where photography and videotaping is invited. If you plan on doing more people shots than the average visitor, let your travel provider and your guide know in advance so somethng more extensive can be arranged. Also you'll encounter lots of people selling crafts at park entrances and such. Sometimes these folks offer to have their photos taken for a fee. Again, through your guide, you could ask about that. Some of this is of course contrived, but you can make arrangements where there is more natural activity without posing. Another interesting approach that I've used when I stayed in a Maasai Manyatta is to hand a camera to some of the local people and let them shoot what they want. I loved the results of what they chose. Then if you send the photos back, via your guide or the company, everybody wins.

lynn -

Goodness, those two driving itineraries are scary! The first one especially... all that zig-zagging/backtracking - like drive from Nakuru (Day 5) to overnight NBO and next day head north again to Samburu; then south to NBO for overnight before out to the Mara... ugh! Both spend so much time on the roads. Oh well, there's something for everyone

As to "that" photo of Kili, it's always a crap shoot! It's often in the afternoon that the clouds part and the peaks can be seen for a few minutes, yet both itineraries emphasize this in the morning. Who ever knows, but I sure wouldn't bank my trip on this unless I had days to wait.

More road time than I'd want, but if driving is the only option and you want to include Amboseli, along with the other spots, and 15 is the max days, is there a better alternative than the second option?

Sandi's lack of enthusiasm for Amboseli to get the Kili shot is worth noting.

Out of everything so far, I'd go with that italicized Safariline itinerary above if I were a serious photographer and I did not want any flights.

"Ugh," is more reason to at least consider a flight if you want Amboseli and the other locations.

lynn -
Was I that obvious?

It's just that there's no guarantee unless you've got luck or extended days on your side!

My best pictures, if I must say so has been when flying over the mountain, I've got the top of Kili, craters and snow... it's my screensaver!

Okay- here's my thought:

The first itinerary from Wildtrek is the most appealing, even though it has us moving around a lot. What I may suggest is that:

A) We skip staying at the Stanley the first night in Nairobi. Our flight won't arrive until 8:30 that evening, and by the time we get to the hotel from the airport we'll be ready to crash. And at $300-400 a night that seems ridiculous. A clean cheap hotel will suit our needs just fine.

B) We skip one night at El Karama, and add it to Masai Mara

C) We take the money we would have spent at the Stanley and stay one more night at Amboseli.

That would give us:

2 nights at El Karama
2 nights at Samburu Game Lodge
2 nights at Elsa's Kopje
1 night at Sweetwaters (or maybe The Ark?)
1 night at Flamingo Hills
3 nights at Keekorok
1 night Elsamere
2 nights at Amboseli

What do you think?

Have WT check for rates at the Fairview Hotel or Country Lodge (the latter a lower cost option belonging to Fairview and using the same grounds) as alternative to The Stanley. However, I can't say the price would be that much less expensive. Unless you're looking for a flea-bag hotel, Nairobi is a big city with any decent hotel/s prices to match.

Heymo, I use Macushla House in Karen for all my overnights in Nairobi and know many others who do also. $120 bed and breakfast per night. A comfortable, safe, lovely small hotel with good meals and excellent, friendly service. They do a la carte dinners and lunches as well. You can walk to the giraffe centre from Macushla and it is close to all the top tourist centres around Karen. I wouldn't stay in Nairobi if you paid me to, not with all that traffic.

Thanks. I'll loo into the Macushla House. Don't want a flea bag motel, but don't need a 5 star either (thought I know even a 5 star in other countries is not a 5 star here!)

Heymo,
Mr. MoneyB and I also stayed at Machusha - it was charming with lovely gardens, decent food, very nice staff and a wonderful overnight. It is a small inn and perfect to see the area around Karen.(but our toilet did run all night and I was too tired to get up and complain)

On our last night we did stay at the Norfolk, mainly because I am a Fairview member from long ago and was given a suite at a pretty good price. Mr. was exhausted from trying to keep up with the Massai guides- running, spearing, tree-climbing, etc so we went for it. Having not seen the original we thought it perfectly fine (given the upgrade) and I got to people watch - many weddings and safari goers so I liked it, while he napped.

Also took one of the only pictures of food on the entire 2-wk trip while there. They loaded our suite up with choc . cakes for some reason- and I felt bad we did not eat them.
In addition, in our opinion -as we are such food snobs (LOL) the best hamburger I had in 2 wks-. with crispy fries. yum (Unless you are a vegetarian;and the salads looked good too)

Depends on what day of the week you are in Nairobi. We were lucky; this was a Sat. - traffic not as bad as weekdays - although that is not saying much. I was terrified being driven around Nairobi - those folks are crazy. The Norfolk also picked us up at Wilson which was nice.
Anyway, lots of options esp. on a budget- go for Macushla...it is so charming.

I am not an expert on Kenya but just a bit obsessed - I could have stayed in the Mara an add'l 3 days (we stayed 7); a good guide will keep you away from the hoards and it is most special; and large enough to spread out over days. Drop another area, but the Mara is the Mara and it may change soon - do not miss it. Will be plenty of stories to tell the grandkids.

Thanks, moneyburns...I will definitely suggest Macushla. We might be able to drive past Karen Blixen's house if we stay in Karen as well!

As to Nairobi traffic...some of the scariest traffic I've been in has got to be Egypt. It made traffic in Sicily look like Mr. Rogers Neighborhood...(and THAT'S saying something!) Driving at night with lights off, changing sides of the raod abck and forth...if we can survive that we can survive anything!

Twaffle, who chimed in above, did a serious photo trip and just returned. Check out her link

http://safaritalk.net/index.php?showtopic=6135&st=20&gopid=45842&#entry45842

At this moment, the report covers only the first couple days of the trip.

moneyburns -

Glad you had a great/best burger at The Norfolk, mine was terrible.

I specifically wanted burger as when I eaten here a few years earlier, before Fairmont took over, it was probably the best ever. Not this time. My medium-rare was dead! And, I didn't have the patience to wait for them to get it right, so picked at my fries and a few bites of meat... not my finest moment. Besides, their prices have doubled since 5/years earlier... ugh!

I made sure to tell the hotel about this as well their hairdryers... the worst any hotel can use anywhere in the world.

It's just not the same Norfolk Hotel as the original, but for the fact this time I didn't have to run the water for 30/min before it was hot!

Hey, I just go with the flow and rarely pitch a fit and this wasn't worth it!

Sandi, I am astonished! I was not going to order it (I did remember your visit reported with another fodorite)
But ...I was being "me" and specifically said, I've heard good and I've heard bad..so lets see the good tonight (with a smile of course)

We were lucky. But yes, food is such a toss up - and I had good and "so so" in camps, and never complained, but darn it, I wanted a good burger! I am not a big complainer but believe me a pic would not have been taken if not so good.

Now, at the back terrace overlooking the gardens, the service was lousy.

But, if you told me I could go this weekend, I'd be there!

The game viewing in Afreekah has always been good!

I too, having remembered the burger I had a few years earlier and just how delicious it was, wanted another. But, darn... this was a bust.

Ask Leely, who was across the table from me and saw the disappointment on my face. But it was more the wonderful company as we hadn't seen one another in a few years... catching up and laughs were more important... so screw the burger!

I have been to Kenya over 20 times. I see some of your itineraries include driving the whole way. If at all possible fly to as many parks as you can. You are wasting time driving, the roads are not good and you will miss game drives because your time is being spent driving. Oh yes I stay at Machushla and it is very nice with wonderful owners who do everything possible to keep their customers happy. The food is great and the hotel is priced right. Very charming. Beef is not always the best food in Kenya. Try the fish, it is generally very good.

horse123 (first and only post? )

Sure if there are flights going where you are, something I prefer. But, unfortunately there aren't airstrips everywhere and often driving is the best/only option.

As far as missing game drives... not so, as transfers from one area to another are done after a morning game drive/breakfast, arriving at next destination in time for lunch, then visitors go out on their afternoon game drive. If the itinerary is scheduled properly, transfers shouldn't be longer than 3/hrs... many visitors enjoy seeing the country, landscape, villages, stopping to meet locals and yes, shopping along the way.

I've yet to miss a game drive if doing road transfers.

book marking. thanks!