Phinda, where the h is silent but the rhino flatulence is not--Trip Report

Lynn,
Wow! Such a great trip you have had. Lovely photos. The animals look so peaceful. Hard to pick a favorite photo. Love the giraffes walking down the road. Amazing. Looks like a nice place to stay.

Well, back to work ... headed for Galapagos and MP this week.

Thanks for sharing your trip!
-Granny Joan

Wonderful pictures Lynn and so sharp. Looks like you had a good time and your room was beautiful, like being outdoors. Can't wait for more pictures.

What great pictures. Thanks for sharing. I especially liked the Lions drinking. Great expressions.

Fantastic photos. Especially the giraffes walking single-file down the road!

atravelynn, your photos are just wonderful! The fourth photo, of the trio of gazelles lying in the grass, looks extraordinarily like a fine wildlife portrait. I assume you have this one enlarged and hanging in pride-of-place somewhere!

...did I say portrait? I meant to say, painting!

Thanks for these - will be at Forest Lodge in about 3 weeks and really looking forward to it.

Lynn-
Another set of wonderful photos.
I like the giraffe one, while they're walking down the road, too.

Thulani looks the same, happy, like I remember. Thanks for posting a pic of him. Our tracker though, was Peter. He must not be there any more.

Looking forward to reading about the rest of your Phinda experience.

Thanks for the comments. The 3 sitting impalas, along with many antelope shots, were the result of just being out and about at Forest Lodge.

The Thulani recommendation helped make the trip, Divewop. He told me that elephants were his favorite, just like you said.

GrannyJoan, Enjoy the Galapagos. I've been there at the same time of year and it was pleasantly cool and of course all the unique species were there. Hope you have a great time sleeping with the tortoises.

Wonderful pictures of Phinda. My guide there was Walter, whom I also would highly recommend. You can never see too many cheetah there. You got some wonderful shots!

Wonderful photos and definitely want to add Phinda to my list of must-sees since the rhino tracking sounds fascinating.

Great photos - thanks. I think we should have a contest to caption the Giraffe queue photo. "Is this the line to get our passports"?

Looks like you had fun!

Cyn

Lynn, what an excellent start! Love your photos as well, and am looking forward to part 2 (and 3 and 4 and...).

Good one, Cynstalker, about the giraffe line.

Good to know Walter is also recommended.

Typically the morning hunt for white rhino started by driving around the broadleaf forest to find tracks. Once we (I really mean THEY) found fresh tracks, which took between 30 and 45 minutes, we’d exit the vehicle and begin the tracking on foot. What a fascinating process this was to watch Ranger Thulani and trackers Dumi (for the first outing) and SK (for the other two) go to work. I not only got to observe their impressive skills, but they included me in all of the key findings so I knew what was happening every step of the way.

The crudest imprint in the sand beneath the vegetation held a clue. When there was no sand, then impressions in the grass were followed. Broken branches indicated the rhino’s horn had become entangled as it walked. We saw evidence of where the rhinos had grazed because shrubs were mowed down in search off scratching posts. We could tell where they had reclined and wallowed in mud by the huge indentations. A dead tick that must have fed in the ear or nasal cavities of the rhino offered more proof we were on the right track

At times it seemed we were playing a child’s game of follow the leader. Our tracker would lead us on a serpentine course that would double back and circle around an area in several loops. Other times the tracks formed an arrow straight path to a pan, indicating the rhinos had been thirsty.

The various antelope we spotted along the way were surprised at our presence and would bound away. That was our cue to remain stationary for a few minutes. If we sent too many animals fleeing, it could be a signal for any nearby rhinos that something was amiss and they too would flee. The whirring chirps of red-billed oxpeckers were a final sign that rhinos were near. Thulani would take out a sand-filled sock from his pocket and give it a shake to watch the dust fly and confirm we remained downwind.

Sometimes we heard them first, as we did with the calf’s whine, or when we could hear a large unknown animal grazing in the forest. Thulani surmised the beast was grazing and not browsing because no snapping twigs from branches could be heard. Everything pointed to rhino, but we could not see it. Suddenly one, two, three rhinos emerged from the thick brush. It was a mother and a near adult calf, plus a year old calf. After watching them, undetected, for several minutes, we departed by crouching and doing the “duck walk” (Remember that from elementary gym class?) for about 100 meters so they would not see our standing forms. That was a workout. Who needs thigh master when you can duck walk?

Sometimes they just appeared, such as when two males we had been tracking wandered into a clearing, resembling a couple of big gray boulders. Sometimes it took most of the morning to glimpse the rhinos. And sometimes we found them quickly so that we could spend the rest of the morning following other tracks and enjoying the scenery.

One fascinating find while searching for rhino was a pile of bright yellow seeds on the ground. Thulani explained that nyala eat fruits from the Torchwood tree and spit out the seeds. I looked around for such a tree but saw none. That meant the nyala carried a huge mouthful of these seeds from elsewhere into the safe haven of the forest to eat them.

Each day the experience was different but the amazing skills of the trackers and Thulani remained a constant highlight of every outing.

Two of the days I was accompanied by only Seth and the last day we were a group of four. I asked how often the rhino tracking was done. The answer was maybe every 6-8 weeks by guests, but the rangers and trackers looked for rhino and other animals much more frequently to keep their skills sharp. Thulani carried a backpack with water for me, in addition to his rifle. I preferred to keep my own water bottle at the ready on a holster around my waste. I took a camera but photography on the walks first required permission from Thulani. I ended up not taking any pictures. Binoculars improved the views of the rhinos hidden in the broadleaf forest. One morning the grass was dry and two mornings it was quite wet, so waterproof footwear is a good idea. I like waterproof socks. None of the hiking was strenuous and it was on flat terrain. Rhino tracking is done instead of a game drive (usually morning) and it does not require an extra charge. It was a highlight of my trip.

The journey to Phinda started at the Federal Air counter at the airport in Johannesburg, followed by a 15-minute van transfer to a smaller airport. It included a comfortable wait in Federal Air’s lounge that offered Africa documentaries on a couple of big screen TVs, plus a huge variety of complimentary snacks.

If rainbows are good luck, I had two of those positive omens for my arrival: one that was visible for the last 10 minutes of the flight and another that spanned the view from the Phinda Forest Lodge dining veranda—and that one included an elephant!

Good thing I paid attention to that elephant and snapped some photos because that would be the only elephant viewed from the front in the daylight. A couple of days before my arrival the elephants were being darted from helicopters for contraception purposes. The herds took defensive measures and stayed in the forest during the day and ventured out at night when they knew the helicopters did not fly. We did have some enchanting full moon viewing of the herd with youngsters playing rambunctiously under the blue moon. (It was the 2nd full moon in June.)

The darting is certainly evidence of the concession being managed. There were other instances of the wildlife being controlled and managed and I’ll mention those as they come up. Human intervention was far more evident here than Mala Mala or most other Africa safari destinations I’ve been. But I have to say it did not seem to be a negative force that was intrusive or imposing on the wildlife. Instead, I felt like my presence in Phinda played a role (granted a minuscule one) in promoting the environment for the wildlife, the people, and conservation in general. All these managing measures contribute to a bigger picture and that is returning more areas to their previous wild state so the wildlife can also return. After all Phinda translates to The Return.

That elephant and his buddies would not enjoy the any fruits of the sand forest that surrounded Forest Lodge because the area was surrounded by an electric fence, designed to deter only the big elephants, but not the other animals. This was an experiment to see if it was the elephants that were depriving the seedlings and saplings of a start.

The single-wire fence did not deter the vervets, crested guinea fowl, impala, red duikers, or nyala (which I have decided is my new favorite antelope, especially the bulls) from roaming through the sand forest and providing excellent views right from our glass cottage suites. I spent most of my pre-lunch downtime roaming the paths and looking at the wildlife. After lunch it got pretty quiet.

On one pre-lunch excursion I watched two male nyalas chasing a couple of females around in hopes of romance. One female eluded her suitor with some quick moves that had the bull racing through the woods until pivoted around a bend and suddenly encountered me. He skidded to a stop in the soft sand and stared right at me. I put an immediate halt to any intentions he might have had by explaining, “No you don’t! You want someone with white vertical stripes and much thinner legs.”

That was some the action out on the paths, but you could have equally good viewing by just staying inside and looking out of your own glass walls or sitting on your balcony. Or at least that’s what I understood. The first few days at Forest Lodge, nobody came over by my house even though I’d seen nyala and impala grouped around the other cottages when I’d walk around. I was feeling a little unwanted when about the third day I was inside reading and looked up to see I was surrounded by an impala herd. When they are in the forest, where we hardly ever get to see them, they are very relaxed, sitting down, and doing a lot of grooming of themselves and each other. It was a delight to watch them for almost an hour before they moved off.

Then the next day nyala (my new favorite antelope) were camped out around my cottage. I was so proud of my own personal nyala herd that I was strutting around the suite, pointing and announcing, “Four females to the east! Mother and twins on the south! Big nyala bull making his way to the north side!” I had no idea which direction was which, but it didn’t matter because there was nobody there to hear me anyway.

I’ve only alluded to the glass cottage suites, but they are masterpieces where art meets architecture. I have some photos in the album, but it does not do these accommodations justice. Mine was #7 and I couldn’t see advantages or disadvantages to any of the suites, except the one right next to reception (not sure what number that was) would have the most foot traffic.

Wow Lynn,
Reading your report is the next best thing to being there! Doesn't every guest at Phinda want to do the rhino tracking?

Lynn, would you explain what you meant by this:
"I took a camera but photography on the walks first required permission from Thulani. I ended up not taking any pictures."

Why would persmission be withheld? (Sorry to be dense).

Cynstalker,
I should have clarified. Permission in using the camera during the rhino tracking was needed for safety. The clicking might be too loud or you might need to stay crouched instead of standing up for a better shot. The views of the rhino on foot were not good photo opportunities so I did not even bother to ask about taking photos.

MomLiz,
With the average stay of 2-3 days, many people do not want to trade a rhino walk for a drive. In Day 3 of my trip, which is coming up, I mention one person's dilemma with that decision. Also, you have to be able to walk a few hours. And it could be intimidating to some. But I agree, it was a priority for me. You wouldn't have to do 3 of these walks, either. You could do only one, which is the norm.

The Phinda staff was exceptionally gracious and friendly and everybody knew my name. The food was outstanding and made to order. The chocolate chip cookies for breakfast at 6:30 am each day were a tasty touch. I would partake in the cooked breakfast that was accompanied by an extensive buffet, served from about 9:30 to about 11:00. Once or twice I had the delicious several-course lunch, served from 1:00-2:30, but breakfast usually held me until the 3:00 tea and cake. Dinner was about 8:00, and I’d phone for my escort to the glass lobby with fireplace (more art meets architecture) about 7:15 or 7:30 because appetizers started about 7:30. We enjoyed a variety of gourmet cuisine every night served, inside when it was cold, or in the beautifully candle-lit (I know the devices they used as luminaria but the Phinda staff descriptively called them candle bags) boma with a bonfire, when it was warmer.

Some nights the staff would entertain with song and dance. Those participating really seemed to enjoy themselves and when I asked them about it later they explained how the songs and dances were from their youth so that everyone knew them well without any practice.

After several nights of entertainment, I had come to expect a bit of a capella during our meals. We had just sat down for our evening meal and started the soup (and I had just started my second glass of wine) when I heard those melodic voices wafting in from the kitchen area. I ate, drank half of wine #2, socialized, all the while enjoying the songs. Then it dawned on me that the performers had not emerged from wherever they were singing. I asked in a commanding voice and to no one in general, “This singing is lovely, but where are they?” The leader of a group of 6 at the next table looked over in a disgusted manner and loudly replied, “It’s a CD.”

Oops, well who knew? Later, when wine #2 was finished and when the first few live performers of the group did emerge to harmonize for us, I looked over his way and stated loudly enough for him to hear but not loudly enough to upstage the show, “I am vindicated! I am vindicated!”

So maybe I didn’t know if it was live or if it was Memorex but at least I did not make a verbal spectacle of myself like one of his clients. This group was at Forest Lodge three nights, and for two evening meals anyone within earshot of their table received way more information than was needed about one woman’s eating disorder (or her proclaimed lack thereof) and special features of her lingerie. Yuk! I’m eating! There’s kids here!

Each day, and sometimes each outing, there was a major sighting of something I had not seen before, but it was not constant action on the game drives. The distinct habitats were also a major attraction and you did not need a degree in botany to tell them apart. With nyala as my new favorite antelope, I was always rewarded with sightings of that species and sometimes photo ops. Thulani indicated that the nyala were so prolific that some would need to be relocated to other reserves.

In addition to the fauna, Thulani knew his flora in English, Latin, and Zulu. We sampled a couple kinds of monkey fruit. The seeds from the green monkey fruit were especially tasty, a cross between lemon and banana.

You could also put your olfactory lobes to use. The large Matabele Ants produced an acrid smell that served as their protection against predators, which could be detected every now and then. Once we observed a single ant and the unpleasant odor was quite evident. There were curry scented plants, bushes with jasmine scented blossoms, the old standard—the potato bush, and at after sunset, a winter night-orchid that bloomed in the sand forest and gave off a sweet honey smell. Whether it was pleasant or not was debatable. The first time I smelled it I was being escorted back to my cottage from a night drive and I thought maybe it was the cologne of my escort. Then a new escort from the cottage to the dinner smelled the same way and I thought there must be another explanation beyond they share a pungent cologne. That’s when I started asking questions and between Thulani and Seth, who joined us tacking rhino, I got the night-orchid explanation.

Lynn, your photos and report are wonderful. Makes me wish we'd stayed at Forest instead of Mountain Lodge (though it was nice). Also makes me wish we'd done a walk (alas, rain threatened), though not sure about being quite that close to rhinos. Loved your elegant pictures of the cheetah, and the giraffe walking in file. We didn't have a flatulence episode, but did come upon a giraffe who had an itch "back there." He found a tree that was just the right height, backed into it, and proceeded to rub his behind back and and forth against it. The look on his face--"Ah, that feels soooo good"--said it all. All of us in the vehicle were giggling uncontrollably.

Great photos.... the nyala are certainly cool looking. Kind of a cross between kudu and bushbuck.. the females at least!

Also loving the report. Sounds like Forest Lodge was heavenly, with great sightings. (And smellings!)

Day 1
The first afternoon to evening game drive was with a most agreeable Australian couple who were leaving the next morning. Too bad, I would have enjoyed their company and with one a lawyer and the other medically trained, we would have had any situation covered. They told me that they felt especially privileged to have had Thulani for their ranger. I agree that he inspires those feelings.

They also told me that they had not seen any cheetahs in their 3 nights, though they were still thrilled with their overall Phinda experience and with Forest Lodge. If I add that I did not see a cheetah during daylight hours of my first 4 days (though the first 3 mornings were devoted to rhino tracking), that means one week with no cheetahs for one ranger/vehicle. I mention this not as any criticism of Thulani or either of the trackers’ excellent skills, but to put expectations in perspective.

The weather was a big factor. It had rained a lot the day before I got there, then it turned very cold (this was a day after the first snow in Johannesburg in a quarter century) and it was extremely windy at times. The lack of cheetah sightings, when we were really trying to see them, also emphasizes that Phinda is not a zoo. It may be fenced but the animals are still in control of showing themselves or not. During the 4 days that I did not see any cheetah, other vehicles did, so they were out there, just not where we were or where we could get reasonably get. So if cheetah is the goal, I would stay no fewer than 4 nights at Phinda at any combination of the lodges. Cheetah was one of my goals and that is why I spent a week.

The cold weather prompted a herd of 14 giraffe, which included one baby, to move from the marsh in the north to the more wooded area of the broadleaf forest. We caught their migration as they walked down the dirt road. It was a great sight. Later when we examined the giraffe tracks, we could see the baby’s were deeply imprinted from jumping and dirt was kicked up. Thulani explained that the baby was literally hopping with excitement about seeing a new place, as this would likely have been its first trip out of the marsh. Funny how tracks could actually be cute.

Day 2
En route to rhino tracking was a magnificent nyala bull making his way to a waterhole for a drink. We stopped to watch. He put his head down to drink, paused, then lifted his head and left. I asked Thulani if our presence had disturbed his drink. Thulani replied the bull was not concerned with us, he just did not like the early morning cold water on his lips. Not as painful as sticking your tongue on a freezing pole, but a shock to the system nonetheless.

On the way back from our first rhino tracking, I proudly spotted a red duiker lying down behind a tree in the sand forest. I also observed, “There’s a bird eating ticks and stuff off of it.” Tracker Dumi, Thulani, and Seth, the CC Africa employee who had joined us, all became very excited. The bird was a yellow-bellied bulbul and it was performing the same function on the duiker as the oxpeckers do on the rhinos and buffalo. But the oxpeckers like open areas and do not fly into the sand forest. The forest dwelling antelope rely on the yellow-bellied bulbuls for tick removal services. Actually getting to see this symbiotic activity is a rarity. Seth had never seen it in 8 years. The guys mentioned this sighting again over the next few days. So a “bird eating ticks and stuff” turned out to be a very big deal.

That evening we found three male lions, a father and his two nearly grown sons, walking in the full moon’s light. Nearby was a cheetah that we did not observe for more than a second with the spotlight, due to the proximity of the lions. It was obvious the lions were aware of the cheetah too, but there was no confrontation.

Day 3
After tracking and locating the white rhino, we extended our walk to any area known as bush pig pans. Didn’t encounter any bush pigs, but what a lovely neighborhood. It was good advertising for the walking safaris that spend most of the day on foot in the bush. Thulani’s brother leads those. And his sister works in the meal service area. All three siblings are CC Africa employees.

That afternoon Thulani’s “wife to be” as he called her, Mbali, joined me in the vehicle for the afternoon and evening drive, and we all dined together that night, which was a pleasant evening for me.

I had my first of many sightings of my favorite African bird—the Africa Hoopoo. Phinda produced more African Hoopoo sightings than anywhere I’ve been.

We also had one of only three reedbuck sightings. Thulani indicated they used to have more but the original reedbuck herd that was brought in was not accustomed to predators so the cheetah had many easy meals and thinned out the reedbuck in no time. I don’t know if the remaining reedbuck were there originally or were fast learners.

In the marsh in the north we saw a mother white rhino and a baby, estimated to be three months old. Neither Mbali nor I had ever seen such a young rhino. We had a total of nine white rhino sightings that afternoon. Occasionally black rhino are also seen at Phinda but tracks and a black rhino midden, found on foot, were the only traces of black rhino that I encountered.

Day 4
The teenage daughter of the Costa Rica Mother-Son team was as delightful as her family members, but she did not accompany us on the rhino tracking. She was a bit hesitant to go on foot, but she also was reluctant to forego a drive with the possibility of predators and other cool sightings. I understood her dilemma exactly. It’s why I booked a week at Phinda--because I knew at least 3 outings would be rhino tracking and I wanted enough additional days of pure game drives to try to see a specific species, cheetah. It is also why I did not request bush walks at Mala Mala, though I did one lovely 15 minute farewell climb up a kopje--because when great sightings are so plentiful, I don’t want to miss them by being on foot. The daughter made a good decision because she saw a cheetah on an impala kill. Those of us who tracked rhino were thrilled with seeing a rhino that we thought was issuing a pre-charge grunt when it was only a pre-nap fart.

On the way back from the rhino walk we spotted one of Phinda’s star birds, which are endemic to the area. It was the pink throated twinspot and the pink and the spots were gorgeous. We also encountered a single wildebeest. It was the first wildebeest for the mother and son and their enthusiasm for it was infectious. “Spectacular shading of colors, magnificent mane.” After concentrating on this lone beast for 10 minutes with my binocs, I had to agree with them.

After lunch, gale force winds (Phinda staff member’s term, not mind) rolled in. Though I felt safe and secure at all times, I watched the trees of the sand forest arch and bend under the stress of the wind and branches were falling down.

With the wind still whipping, I went to tea and met my new vehicle-mates, a family of four--the Hunters. I don’t know their real last name, I only know that had done a hunting trip prior to Phinda. Their hunting trip is none of my business, but as my vehicle-mates I did have three expectations of them:

#1 Appreciate quality sightings and don’t ask to leave immediately in search of something else. They passed #1.

#2 Don’t do anything to disrupt the wildlife or our experience viewing and photographing it. They were shaky on this one and I could have even ignored this transgression if they had not botched #3 so badly.

#3 Get to the vehicle on time so we can depart on time. For two of our four outings they were 20-25 minutes late. Five more minutes and I was requesting my immediate departure and a transfer vehicle that could track us down and deliver them when they were ready.

Their excuses were “We’re on vacation,” and “We didn’t hear the wake up call,” despite the fact that the staff recorded they had made the call and the phone just rang and rang. Hunters, of all people, should know the importance of leaving early and maximizing time in the bush.

If the excuse for being late had been, “Delayed by honey badgers or hyena on the path,” I would have understood completely. If it had been, “I tripped over a stump and ripped open my leg and was applying bandages so I wouldn’t bleed all over the vehicle,” I’d forgive and forget. Goodness knows, these things could happen to any of us. But “didn’t hear” and “on vacation” are bu11$h*t. Or maybe more appropriately these excuses are a steaming, stinky midden of rhino dung.

If their personalities had been exceptionally sunny and genuine, I might have been ticked with the behavior, but I would not have integrated them into my trip report in a mocking manner. I do not view my reaction as mean spirited; I see it as “when life gives you lemons, make lemonade.”

Despite my best efforts at making conversation—“What brought you to Africa?” “How did you choose Phinda?” “What habitat did you hunt in?” “What grade are you in, Son #1?” “What grade are you in, Son #2?” “Bon Appetit.” “How nice you can relive your trip with shared family memories” etc. etc., I’d get a curt reply and then silence. The only thing Pa Hunter asked me over two full days together was, “Do you like garlic cheese? It’s my favorite.” In his defense, he knew I am from the Dairy State of Wisconsin.

Into the vehicle and ready to go. Pa Hunter immediately noticed the rifle lodged in front. Discussion began on what all it could kill and then expanded to the more generalized which guns kill which animals.

We set off in the whipping wind that was no longer quite gale force, circumventing downed tree limbs that blocked the road. My game viewing expectations under these conditions were very low. We headed to the marsh and were soon on the trail of the three male lions. What luck.

The light was a little low, but I countered that by turning the dial on my camera to ISO and changing to burst mode so no action would escape me. Feeling like a real photographer now, I was ready to take on the coalition of male lions! I was almost a real photographer without a subject, though. When we spotted the lions, Pa Hunter stood up in the vehicle, pointed, and exclaimed, “There they are!” The sound from the wind was our salvation and it muffled his voice so the lions were not startled. Now, I had listened to Thulani thoroughly explain the rules to the family back at the lodge, even using a giant flip chart, so everyone should have known that standing and shouting at lions was not allowed. But a quick review session was in order before approaching the lions.

All three males were gathered together at a small waterhole and they drank as the wind whipped through their manes. A grand sight indeed.

On the night drive back discussion included the various antelope species that had been eaten at the previous hunting camp and I learned that chicken fried eland is good eating.

I had a feeling this would be you when I read the very creative title Lynn!

Your pictures are wonderful, such a great variety. Was the canoe trip one of your activities to choose from? Did you see any crocs or hippos? Did you have to pre-plan the rhino tracking or could you decide once you got there? Was the blue moon a factor in planning your trip dates? The Forest Phinda looks amazing, what made you choose that lodge over the other 3?

The rhino tracking is appealing but I don't think my knees could handle the "duck walking".

Knowing how diplomatic,well spoken and polite you are and still having difficulties with "the hunters" makes
me wonder how I would ever manage in that same situation. That is a real concern of mine staying at one place for a long time and being "stuck".

Looking forward to reading the grand finale of your fantastic trip. Thanks.

You probably (hopefully) don't have to be stuck with unpleasant vehicle mates, for long anyway. At Madikwe Hills in May two newly wed/honeymoon couples in my vehicle were driving me batty with dumb questions and inane banter. (Yes, there are dumb safari questions). When I learned I was scheduled to be with them two more days I requested of my ranger for to change vehicles. He did that for me and my new vehicle mates were fine.

regards - tom
ps - I was cursed with honeymooning couples at two of the three camps. Do not go to luxury safari camps in May, or probably June either.

Lynn,

What a wonderful report. It has brought back great memories. You've expressed my feelings about Forest Lodge and Phinda entertainingly and articulately, from the beauty of the glass houses, and the evenings entertainment to the mission of the lodge.

Having Thulani and SK as my first ranger/guide experience at a safari lodge set a high standard for the rest of the trip. I'm glad to see them looking so well.

The nyalas are wonderful to watch. I missed them later in my trip. We didn't do the rhino tracking though we did have a long bush walk one day. Now I have a good reason to go back.

I enjoyed the photos, the cheetah and the giraffe line were tops. The variety of the landscape is indeed a bonus.

Did Thulani have dinner with you and your group at night? Sorry about the "Hunters." Not sure I could handle that well. Looking forward to the rest of the rreport.

CW

Carla,
The canoe trip was a free activity in place of a game drive. For lighting reasons, afternoon is the best. I did it on Day 6 and requested it on Day 5.

We saw the splash of a couple of small crocs on the canoe trip. No sign of hippo. The crocs while canoeing were the only ones I saw. I saw one hippo's head in a man-made dam.

I pre-planned the rhino tracking trips. The mother/son team that joined me were talked into it by their ranger, so they did it after they arrived. I think you could do the rhino tracking after you arrived because it was one of the many activities listed on a big flip chart that is part of the orientation with the ranger. Three trips is unusual. You could do just one.

The only difficulty with doing any of these free, game drive replacement activities once you have arrived is that it has to work out with rangers and vehicles. If there were 4 solos in a vehicle and one wanted to canoe, one wanted a bushwalk, one wanted to track rhinos, and one wanted a traditional drive, that could be a problem.

I knew when the full moon was, and actually wanted to avoid it, but that is hard on a two week trip. I only learned about the blue moon once I got to Phinda.

Why Forest Lodge? Forest (north) and Mountain (south) are the lower priced. Vlei (north) and Rock (south) are the higher priced lodges with fewer guests. So I knew it would be a Forest or Mountain tossup. This forum seemed to favor Forest. I also read where the Forest Lodge had won awards for environmental and design reasons. I had never been to a sand forest, where Forest Lodge is located, but I have been to mountains. If you stayed in the south there is a sand forest down there somewhere.

Duck walking was done only once and we probably could have come up with an alternative. I think you could have crawled, but that could be hard on the knees too. Before we left on the first rhino walk, Thulani asked me if there were any medical problems he should know about. You could mention knees at that time.

The Hunters turned out to be a source of humor. Some of their best (or worst) antics are yet to come. As it turned out, the two times they were late did not result in a missed sighting I don't believe. Neither did their improper etiquette in the vehicle. I interpreted their comments and actions as boorish behavior but they were never directly mean to me.

My comments on them are actually meaner.

Tom,
I recall your bevy of honeymooners. After four outings, the Hunters moved on. I have to give CC Africa credit because I had 8 of my 14 activities alone. The other guests, who were not the Hunters, that I shared a vehicle with enhanced the experience.

CW,
My dining companions spanned all combos.
I ate with vehicle-mates without Thulani. I ate with two women who were CC Africa accountants, there to close the books on June 30. Thulani joined the accountants and me one time. Thulani joined the Hunters and me at least once. Thulani joined me for breakfast a time or two. I ate one evening meal with Thulani and his wife-to-be, as he called her. Thulani and Tracker SK joined me one night in the boma for dinner. At breakfast or lunch, depending on when I went and who was there, I'd eat alone, with my vehicle-mates or with other people I had met.

But when Thulani did join me, he was as good of company at mealtime as in the bush.

I must admit that some of my comments on the Hunters do get a little nasty, especially my remarks on grammar. I know I ain’t always the bestest and most well spoken person in any crowd and I’d never criticize the English grammar of someone whose first language is not English. If the Hunters had gotten the big things right, like being on time, I’d be oblivious to the trivial things, like speech patterns. Still, I feel I must invoke that Larry the Cable Guy quip pre-emptively. “Lord, I apologize for that.”

You know how the plural of many African species does not contain an s? Buffalo for a whole herd. Lion, even when it’s a pride. Then there are some animal names that are exceptions to that such as crocs and vervets. Whether one puts the s on the end or not, in speaking or writing, is not something I care to monitor. I don’t consistently follow those rules myself. But let me share with you an alternative syntax used by Pa Hunter. For the plural, just stick the article “them” in front of any animal species and an s on the end. For example: “Yesterday I seen them lions.” “Them elands make good chicken fried steaks.” “Them warthogs, them rhinos, etc.” Lord, I apologize for that.

At dinner it was just the family and I sharing a table. We were on the main course of an individually served, delicious gourmet meal in which each guest had several menu choices. Discussion turned to uncertainty about the food on the plate followed by wistful, fond memories of McDonald’s, Country Kitchen, and Denny’s. But the consensus was that Denny’s service was slow. As soon as this fact was uttered, each family member had to mock insult each other member with, “You’re slow.” With four members I believe mathematically that worked out to one dozen insults. I did not participate, choosing to sit that round out.

Day 5
We had some raindrops as we departed this morning. Pa Hunter inquired of Thulani, “Ya got cheetahs here?” Duh, It’s a conservation area that specializes in them cheetahs! Thulani’s response was polite and accurate.

Not long into our drive Thulani and SK spotted fresh cheetah tracks. We followed them in the vehicle through some brush. At that point the guys got out, reminded us to stay put, and started tracking on foot into the broadleaf forest. They were just out of earshot when Ma Hunter remarked, “Do you think they are just doing this for show?” I could not have packed more bitterness into my response of, “This is not a show.”

About 15 minutes later our leaders returned with good news. There was a cheetah in the forest, a strange comment in and of itself. At Phinda, the cheetahs have adapted to spending time in the forests. In fact, I was told there was one in front of our lodge in the sand forest the day before. Their first choice is the acacia-savanna or marsh area when that is not too wet, but they are found in the forests and we had seen their tracks in this habitat while tracking rhino.

Is this adaptation good, bad, neither? There are plans to expand the concession over twice its existing size to include new habitat, much of it acacia-savanna and marsh, along with the other environments. It will be interesting to see what the cheetahs that have adapted to the forest do with new habitat possibilities.

Our vehicle advanced through the forest, which required us to lie flat in the seats to avoid branches. A minor inconvenience for a cheetah. She was sitting in a clearing and completely visible, in dappled light. We sat with her about an hour as she dozed, washed, looked around in an agitated manner when the wind gusted, yawned, stretched. Speaking of yawning, about half way into our viewing one of the sons let out a big yawn. To Thulani’s credit, he never took the bait and asked, “Should we move out?”

When the cheetah moved out we noticed she was limping, which also explained why she may have taken refuge from the wind and light rain to heal in the warmth and cover of the forest. Thulani mentioned he would inform the vet and so did the ranger in the vehicle next to us. During our hour one or two other vehicles came to see the cheetah and left. Apparently if the wound did not heal, the vet would intervene for cheetah injuries, but not for just any injured animal.

The misting rain turned to a steady drizzle almost the moment the cheetah walked off. How’s that for timing!? So we wore our rain ponchos and carried on. We came upon a big bull elephant who was walking away from us on the road, grabbing select branches as he went. With a view from the rear and a light drizzle, we did not have a Kodak moment.

But there was one highly visible feature of this animal that caught all of our attention. It is always fascinating to see the reaction of anyone who first observes an elephant’s fifth leg, and this was a sizeable one. I must say I have never observed such a dexterous and prehensile member on an elephant before. That thing was doing tai chi moves.

At breakfast the manager gave us the plan for the next day’s visit to the Songoma (village psychic) and another Zulu family. Pa Hunter asked the manager, “Is there something we should know about the village?”

I thought, “Good for him, he’s seeking further information to enhance our encounter.”

But he completed his question by asking, “I heard a lot of people have AIDs there. Should we be worried about that?” Ma Hunter appropriately responded, “Only if you plan on having sex with them.”

The pm game drive would produce another cheetah but not until sunset, providing my first cheetah-and-sunset photo that would win no contests. This male was located in the south in the Getty area, which was a private part of Phinda that the Getty family allowed CC Africa to traverse. But no off-roading there, even for the cheetah.

Fortunately the cheetah was very accessible. This cheetah was known for his frequent vocalizations and we got to hear him. Perhaps he was calling for a female. Thulani said cheetahs make a sound like a bird (and this guy was tweeting loudly) as a form of protection so they don’t call attention to themselves with a growl.

The sun went down and the night drive began. We had not gone far when an argument broke out amongst the Hunters. Something about who shot what animals and how many shots it had taken. The conflict escalated into a shouting match through the dark as we drove. I was certain that we had scared everything away with that racket, but a moment later we saw our first large spotted genet-—my first of the entire trip including the four nights at Mala Mala. It sat up, staring at us with its beady little eyes, raised its tiny genet index claw to its pointy snout, and hissed, “Shhhh!” Soon there was another large spotted genet. It was true we saw two genets, but the first one did not go “Sh.” He actually raised the middle little genet claw above his head and shouted, “Shut the he!! up.”

With the hunting argument settled, the boys began to wrestle in their seat. Since the vehicle was moving anyway, the motion was not a problem and they were just letting off steam as teenagers will do. I had no problem with that until one of them was in a headlock and on the losing end of the tussle. I could not believe what I heard. He was crying rape. Not “uncle,” or “ok, that’s enough,” “cut it out,” “I’m tellin’ Mom,” but “rape.” As the advantage shifted from one boy to the other in their wrestling match, this word was used another two times.

A white tailed mongoose, which Tracker SK picked for the highlight of his day, was the final sighting.

Carla,

I just thought of one more reason I chose Forest. For the rhino tracking you have to stay at Forest or Vlei. They are the closest to the broadleaf forest, where the rhino are most likely to be found in the morning.

Oh, Lynn - you are so funny! "That thing was doing tai chi moves" made me snort out my coffee!

Your experiences with the Hunters reenforces for me why we try to do private guides. Takes the fun right out of things.

Lynn-
Your tales of the "hunter" family are hilarious. Kudos to you for maintaining your composure throughout your time with them.

What an adventure. Gotta wonder who the real animals were!

And Thulani sounds like he handled himself with the quiet professionalism I remember him having.

Day 6
Just a few meters from my cottage on my way to breakfast I witnessed a kill. And it was by one of the celebrity star birds, the pink throated twinspot. This was an instance of the early bird gets the worm.

We spent almost an hour within a few meters of a mother and baby white rhino in the marsh this morning. The mother had the longest horn of any female at Phinda. The baby was about five months old and very active, munching grass and checking out our vehicle. Suddenly all activity ceased and the baby plopped down on his side next to mother for a nap. His legs stuck out straight from where they were connected to his body, like the legs of an overturned chair. This little guy’s inaction was as entertaining as his actions. The redbilled oxpeckers were really going to work on the baby as well as the mother. Finally, the birds became disruptive to the baby’s nap, so he sprung to his feet and both mother and baby trotted off.

We returned about 9:30 so there was time for breakfast before a 10:00 am village departure. There are two kinds of village visits and both take place midday so as not to disrupt the scheduled game activities. One is a 45-minute to an hour quick overview of the projects that CC Africa sponsors and it is free of charge, though donations are requested. There is no minimum number of participants. The other visit is 550 Rand and requires a minimum of two participants, or one participant can pay double. It lasts about three hours and typically visits the local psychic and another family and stops at a small craft shop. Part of the price acts as a donation. I wanted to do the longer visit so I had to join others to avoid paying double, which I was not going to do. If no one else went, I would have done the shorter free visit.

One other village hint. It is standard to return a little early from the morning game drive before the 3-hour village visit so breakfast can be eaten. We had never gotten back as early as 9:30 before. If it was agreeable to all involved, I’d ask to forget the 9:30-10:00 breakfast and just have some extra cookies at the 6:30 breakfast and at your morning coffee stop. Then you could get back just before 10:00, giving yourself almost another half hour in the bush. It’s not like you have to change clothes or prepare for the village visit. You could hop right from the game drive vehicle into the regular vehicle used for the visit and you’re off. Then when you get back around 1:00 pm from the village, have yourself a hearty lunch, which is served until 2:30 pm.

You could even expand your Zulu visit options in the future, if you prepare in advance. After I arrived at Phinda, I asked if anyone every stays overnight at a Zulu homestead, which is the term used to describe the several buildings that each family lives in. They mentioned some guests had asked about it in the past but it had not been done. Of course, I offered to pay for that privilege. It looked like they could arrange such an overnight stay with family members of the Phinda staff. Then some of the Phinda management folks decided that since this activity was not booked from home with my TA, I could not do it. Liability problems, likely. But if you had several nights at Phinda and made arrangements up front, I think it would be an outstanding experience. As it turned out, I did not get to stay overnight, but I did have a wonderful farewell evening with Thulani’s family at his home. That’s described in Day 7.

So I ended up going to visit the Zulu homesteads with the Hunters. We traveled in a regular closed vehicle with our guide, VR. He was charming and very knowledgeable and made the trip so enjoyable. A few times he casually broke into song as part of his explanation and sometimes he requested us to join him. VR had a beautiful voice and his singing, along with ours, added to our overall experience. This comment is from someone who does not care for sing-alongs and such.

One of VR’s points was that Zulus naturally love visitors so setting up these village visits fit right into their culture and was not seen as an intrusion. He stated that if people do not want to come and visit you then something is wrong.

Pa Hunter dozed during parts of VR’s dialogue and would ask questions when he woke up about what VR had just said. But the questions were thoughtful and reasonable and nothing more was uttered about AIDs.

Once we left the gate of the park, we drove about 30 minutes on beautifully paved roads. When we encountered goats, VR would jokingly refer to them as Zulu Impala. The cattle were Zulu Buffalo. When the Zulu Buffalo lined the highway, it was known as a yellow light and we slowed way down. When they crossed it was a red light. VR told us he controlled the traffic lights and could switch them to a green light at will by tooting the horn. It was quite humorous.

We had far more activity in the village than usual because it was the once a month pension day for senior citizens. There were hundreds of people selling everything from clothing to vegetables along the roadside. We were told pension day could slightly alter our schedule because the psychic, or Sangoma, would be making the trek to get her monthly pension too. We had to time our visit around her pension run.

Our timing was perfect as we pulled into the homestead of the Sangoma and saw her Zulu Guinea Fowl (chickens). We removed our shoes, gave the greeting of honor used specifically for a Sangoma that included clapping four times, and entered the room where she received visitors. Incense, drumming, and special fetishes helped induce her into a trance and her body went through what appeared to be an arduous transformation to reach the ancestors’ spirits. We witnessed the Sangoma’s animated dancing and chanting for about 15 minutes. Photos were allowed but I did not feel comfortable taking flash pictures and the dark room required flash. So no photos resulted, but it’s better to see it for yourself. The ancestors she communicated with were happy we had arrived and wished us a safe journey.

We were allowed to ask questions through VR, our interpreter. I asked if she was tired afterward. If she went through the ordeal we saw almost daily, or even more often for visitors, I would think it could take a toll. She responded that since it was the ancestors who had taken over her body, she was not tired. To back up her claims, she was not winded as she spoke.

Then on to the Zulu family’s homestead. It was a 10 minute drive. The parents were not home, but the children were gracious hosts and invited us into the ancestor shrine, a special structure for ceremonies and family gatherings. Afterwards the children danced in traditional costumes. To her credit, Ma Hunter inquired about tipping the children, so we did and they were extremely pleased. Of course we tipped VR when we returned to Forest Lodge.

Later I asked Thulani if any of the Phinda staff visited that Sangoma. His reply was that they may or may not see that one, but that they would certainly value and seek out the advice of a Sangoma somewhere. His family also has a special place to honor his ancestors, as do most Zulu families.

Finishing up the excursion, we hit the market, which was housed in one large building and offered a variety of crafts. I bought a nice purple and teal basket and was given an explanation on the local plants that were used for its construction and to dye it. Then I watched a group of kids play soccer in the nearby field, and kicked the ball back to them when it came my way.

When we returned to Phinda, the Hunters and I parted. I did encounter them once again when we shared the same transport and I mentioned something about Thulani. Pa Hunter asked, “Now who was that? Our guide?” Though I replied with only a “yes,” I wanted to ask, “All this time have you been thinking that ‘them Thualnis’ were some kind of endemic antelope or something?”

That afternoon was perfect canoeing weather—warm and still. We headed south to the Mzinene River. For the first time I saw the riverine habitat with its red soil and palms. The buffalo herds were partial to this environment. We also passed a large man-made dam with pumped water that supported trees full of cormorants and storks. We spied the lone hippo in the area when he poked his head from the water.

This was the furthest south we had ventured. From here we could see the mountain habitat in the distance but we did not drive into the mountains. I asked if there were any klipspringer in the mountains. Apparently some were introduced, though it was not conclusive whether or not they had been indigenous to the area. Of those that were introduced, a few did not take to the rocky, mountainous terrain and unfortunately fell off during the acclimated process.

To fully experience all of Phinda’s habitats, it is best to split your visit as follows: The north has Vlei (high end) and Forest Lodge (moderate) and the south has Rock (high end) and Mountain (moderate). You have to be staying at Forest or Vlei for the rhino tracking because these two properties are closest to the broadleaf forest habitat, where the rhinos are commonly found in the morning. I spent one whole week at Forest Lodge.

There is also the walking camp where you either start your walk right from camp or drive somewhere and walk. You return back to the same camp each night. The walking camp is in the north area. We saw the walkers in a vehicle late one afternoon at a cheetah sighting. As to whether north or south is best, they seem to be about equal from what I was told, with the north having the slight edge in winter and the south having the slight edge in the summer.

Back to the river and the canoe: You need shorts and no shoes or socks to canoe. The paddle was what you’d use for a kayak so it got a little drippy in the canoe. Life jackets are provided and I requested to wear mine. The river has barely a current and is quite wide. Afternoon gives the best sun on the fever trees on the far bank, spectacular in fact. There are no elephants on that bank, so the fever trees flourish. The first couple of minutes you canoe directly into the sun, but then it is off to the side. A large water monitor scooted along the bank next to us for quite a ways. Then a malachite kingfisher did the same, flying from perch to perch. We had a great view of one of the star birds in the area, the Southern Banded Snake Eagle, as he sat in a tree. A bull nyala walked through reeds along the bank. Small crocs slid into the water as we passed. We only knew this from their splashes. We saw darters, cormorants, and a jacana. Near the end of our hour or so of paddling were some grooming vervets high in a tree who were being entertained by us. No hippos. A beautiful outing.

On the night drive back we saw two porcupines, something I’ve always wanted to see. Then we passed the dam and along the bank was a white tailed mongoose. The spotlight brightly illuminated the black and white mongoose and its clear reflection in the water as it strolled along the water’s edge. It was a stunning! If we could have gotten the mongoose to sing a few lines and do a little dance, we would have had our own private Disney movie.

Jeez, Lynn.....those are the kind of people who get themselves on the Jerry Springer show! I always asked myself, if there really are people like that- from reading your report....apparently there are!

Lynn, fantastic report. You've made me so glad we are staying at Phinda for 6 nights. Do you know if Thulani only guides for guests of Forest? We're staying at Rock and Vlei (3 nights each).

Hari,

No the Jerry Springer guests are much worse. I met a couple who sat next to me on a plane as they were being flown to Chicago for his show. It was a 2-hour flight and mother and pregnant daughter came on with several footlong hotdogs for only two people and onion rings. They said they didn't want to get hungry. (Eating for two and cravings and all I suppose.)

They were loudly explaining how Jerry was going to devote a special show just to them. (Yeah, right) Arriving separately would be the ex-boyfriend who was the father of the child that the girl was carrying. The mother was going to be the special surprise guest.

We heard all about how rotten this ex-boyfriend was, how he cheated, etc. etc.

Very sad.

So it could have been worse. I could have had footlong hot dogs and onion rings in the vehicle.

hills-
I don't think it matters what lodge you're in as long as it's at Phinda, of course.

I stayed at Vlei when I used Thulani, and if you're splitting between the two lodges I'm sure he'll stay with you throughout.

Hills27,
Any ranger can guide at any lodge. There was also a recommendation for Walter as a ranger.


Here is the end of the report...

Day 7
Our day started without a vehicle because it had developed a puncture that morning. Thulani had a good plan—we’d start out with a sand forest walk and get picked up when the vehicle was ready, so off we went. When we heard SK approach in the distance, we decided to play a trick on him and hide in the forest. He sped past us and we hopped out with a whistle from Thulani. We kidded SK, “If you were really a tracker, you would have tracked us to our hiding spot!”

It was not long before fresh cheetah tracks were spotted. Thulani and SK hopped out and another ranger and tracker from a separate vehicle joined them. The four of them went off in search of a cheetah. They came back smiling. The female with the limp had been racing through open areas of the broadleaf woodland after a duiker. She gave up the chase and was resting in a dried pan just up the road, two minutes by vehicle. Good news for her that she was comfortable running on her injured foot. Good news for us that we would see her again. But we didn’t. She had disappeared by the time we got to the dried pan. A second thorough search on foot by all four experts produced nothing.

So we continued on, looking for whatever else was out there. Not too much. That’s when Thulani employed a good strategy. We just stopped, turned off the motor and sat, looked, and listened. It wasn’t long before one of the two rare indigenous mammals appeared—the red Tonga squirrel. It ran quickly ran down an exposed tree branch and into thick leaves. Then its mate followed the same route and I was treated to a rerun. Very cool. I had hoped to see the Tonga squirrel or the Sunni antelope, the two rare indigenous mammals at Phinda.

A radio call came in that a cheetah had been spotted south of Forest Lodge. We headed in that direction. A Burchell’s Coucal was dusting itself in the road and singing a song that meant it would rain. Looking up at the skies, the bird was clearly in error.

We were about 10 minutes from reaching the cheetah when I could hear on the radio that the “station,” as they call it, that was with the cheetah was moving out. The ranger radioed Thulani that the cheetah had a full belly and was resting under a tree in the shade and would likely remain. Directions to that spot in the shade were given.

(This is the first time I’ve mentioned the radio. Headsets were not used so chatter could be heard at times. Thulani often turned the radio off and even when it was on, it was not at all intrusive in my opinion. That’s probably why I haven’t mentioned it.)

My thought was, “Who wouldn’t want to sit and watch a cheetah for only 10 more minutes until we arrived?” That would have made locating it much easier for us. We arrived at the designated spot and searched the area where the cheetah had last been seen resting. No cheetah. So we expanded the search area and eventually found her not resting under a tree, but alert and on the move. A good look at her stomach showed it was enlarged, but loose and hanging, indicating she was likely pregnant and not just well fed.

We followed her as she started trotting down the road—-the road next to the concession’s boundary, delineated by a fence. I had a view of both cheetah and fence. Except for one warthog and a herd of nyala at a great distance, this was the only time that animal and fence were in the same line of sight. I didn’t like it.

Almost once a day we would drive along the fence and that was ok. I suppose the road could have been moved over, and additional vegetation destroyed, so that guests would not have to view the fence as they drove. But that would not seem to fit with the philosophy at Phinda.

The grand plan for fences is to acquire the adjacent national parkland, that represents an area twice the current size of Phinda, and to also acquire a parcel of private land next door. Then the fences would surround such a huge habitat that guests would be unlikely to encounter them. That habitat could support many more animals and, in Thulani’s estimate, about 50 cheetah.

Currently when the cheetah population rises, the animals are relocated to other CC Africa reserves, keeping the gene pool diverse. Births are not the only source of new cheetahs at Phinda. Any farmer with problem cheetahs only needs to contact CC Africa and staff members will come out to the farm, trap the problem cheetahs, and bring them to Phinda. They prefer to do this with coalitions of cheetah so the animals have a buddy as they are acclimating to the new environment.

The new arrivals to Phinda start out in a fenced in boma with food provided. Then the boma is enlarged. Rangers try to drive around the boma whenever possible during their outings to habituate the cheetah to vehicles.

Thulani recounted how five cheetah brothers had been brought in from Namibia. Four had died after relocation due to some kind of ailment, but it wasn’t a genetic ailment. On the plus side, if any of them had mated, then their diverse genes were brought into the pool. One male remained and chose to live in the south, but was seldom seen. I was glad to learn that animals could escape detection. There should be places in Phinda that the animals can go if they choose not to strut for the cameras.

Our cheetah veered off the road and we followed, leaving the fence behind. She was very interested in the scents at the base of a fallen tree. This is where other cheetahs had left their marks. She moved into the savanna, where you’d expect cheetahs to reside. Then she covered ground quickly and disappeared into the acacia trees of this savanna-acacia habitat. We drove around the trees to try to locate her point of exit. The good eyes of SK found her and we watched her settle down with unobstructed views in the mid-morning sun.

I was privileged to stay with her until about noon. That was two and a half hours. Thulani and SK had spent almost double the amount of time that would normally be devoted to a morning game drive. I was impressed with the beautiful cheetah and I was impressed with them. Let me also mention that Thulani had been scheduled to go on his leave (that comes up every six weeks) two days earlier, but he extended his work period any extra two days so that our week together would be uninterrupted. Here’s a guy who technically should be on holiday and he was working overtime for one guest in the vehicle.

Thulani had radioed the lodge and told them not to hold any breakfast items since we had missed that whole meal time. That meant today I ate lunch. A Scottish couple invited me to join them. They were on their second Phinda visit and recounted a mother and cub leopard sighting as the highlight of their previous visit. Even though there was no mention of anyone seeing a leopard during my weeklong stay, it reinforces you could one at any moment. And we had seen tracks.

We decided to try to find the cheetah again on the afternoon drive and there she was, two cheetah lengths from where we left her, still relaxing. We spent about an hour and a half with her and a couple of giraffes spent about an hour with both of us. Part of the sky became dramatically dark and a few rain drops fell. The coucal had been right. We left the cheetah and headed back to the lodge, toward blue skies. Thulani stated he was certain the rain would not follow us.

No night drive tonight. Instead Thulani had arranged a combo catered dinner/cultural visit/family reunion at his mother’s homestead, where he spends time when he is not working. Thulani, his sister who works at Phinda, and I departed in Thulani’s personal car. It’s hard to know just how far away his home was because we detoured to pick up a cousin. My contribution to the festivities was a bottle of spirits, which is what Thulani suggested—vodka, from Phinda’s bar.

When we turned off the paved highway and proceeded on the dirt road to the homestead, Thulani remarked, “This is where it all began, when I was a little boy running around in the fields, learning the birds and the trees.” And now, next to me was a knowledgeable and respected ranger, who was trusted with a recent National Geographic crew who did a two week shoot on rivers (the one we canoed). We joked that when Thulani appears in that documentary, he’ll be just like Brad Pitt. He also had guided Reverend Desmond Tutu for several days. Apparently the respected reverend was just as animated and enthusiastic about the wildlife as he is about everything else.

In between his time playing in the fields that were now illuminated by our headlights, and guiding dignitaries such as Reverend Tutu, Thulani had worked as a waiter and in the kitchen at Phinda. He told me he would go out on drives with the rangers and get tears in his eyes, in awe of what he was seeing. After studying on his own with bird books and field guides, he attended the ranger training program and passed. That was six years ago.

We had arrived at our destination and it was obvious because the road was now lined with those beautiful luminaria candle bags. Thulani had driven out midday and arranged them, along with many other arrangements. Talk about tears in your eyes. I felt like I was arriving royalty.

A bonfire was going and provided our only light as there was no electricity. We made our introductions using the special Zulu handshake and “Saw-u-bohn-a” responding with “Yebo.” The gathering consisted of about 30 family members. A special greeting and thank you was in order for Thulani’s mother, the owner of the home. The vodka spirits hostess gift brought applause.

Lovely upholstered furniture from Thulani’s room was positioned around the bonfire along with additional stools and mats. Those raindrops predicted by the coucal had also followed Thulani’s prediction and had not followed us because our evening outside under the stars was rain free.

There was not much conversation since all I could say was hello, thank you, good bye, nyala, and give the Sangoma greeting. Thulani and his sister were of course fluent in English but they were busy grilling steak, chicken, sausages, and preparing salad and sgwamba. Sgwamba is the cornmeal staple similar to sadza or ugali. I offered to help, but they declined and they certainly had everything under control. I spent the first 20 minutes or so avoiding the bonfire smoke that was causing my eyes to water profusely, though no one else seemed to be affected.

Then I sat on the mat, away from the fire and smoke, with the women and babies. I asked, through Thulani, if I could hold a baby. Thulani had not even finished with my translated request when a little guy was plopped into my lap. He was content for a while, then clearly wanted to crawl on to the next child holder. I sat with another baby or two. The babies enjoyed the rotation schedule and sat with other children, dads, sisters, uncles, then back to mom. The babies rarely cried and the older children never required any discipline.

The kids laughed or huddled together quietly, watching and listening. Thulani’s cute little dog was present and so were a few neighbor dogs, all well behaved. I was surprised how all this commotion at night did not disturb the chickens that remained asleep on top of their coop next to the hubbub. The goats that were penned up next to the chickens were quiet also.

Thulani directed me to the upholstered love seat to eat the wonderful meal that had been prepared in front of me. I sat next to a young man holding a baby. The men sat on Thulani’s furniture and the women sat on the mats. I was the exception, as a guest.

After dinner, Thulani broke out the vodka. The men were served straight shots and I was given a mixed drink of Coke and vodka. And then another. Thulalni drank very little or nothing as the designated driver.

When the eating was done the singing began and it was obvious everyone knew and loved the songs. Then the dancing. One family member at a time would dance, accompanied by a singing, clapping audience. One element of the dance involved raising a leg very high and slapping it down on the ground. This activity would gain momentum, then die down a bit, then gain momentum again.

I had asked Thulani about taking pictures of everyone and sending them. He thought that would be a good idea since none of them had ever had their picture taken. As the party wound down, I took photos of various individuals, groups, mothers and babies, the entire family, somebody even grabbed Thulani’s dog and held him up for a shot. Thank goodness for an effective flash because there was no other source of light.

Eventually it was time to leave so I said my “See-ya-bohn-ga’s” which is the plural form of thanks and then “Sah-lah-knee Kah-hlay” which is good bye to everyone. We piled back into the vehicle. Mbali, Thulani’s wife to be was also with us for the ride back.

I told Thulani what a wonderful evening it had been and I said that I hoped everyone else who had attended enjoyed themselves. Thulani said he knew they had or they would not have danced at the end.

On the way back we passed a fenced reserve, Bonamanzi. Our headlights shone for just a moment on a cheetah trotting along the fence. I immediately called out the sighting. Then I asked Thulani if that was possible because you don’t often see cheetahs trotting around at night. He replied that there are no major predators, except leopards, in that reserve, so the cheetah are comfortable being mobile at night. Then he added that the cheetah was likely near the fence because leopards would not go near the fence, which is near the road. So the facts fight the sighting. As we pulled into Forest Lodge it was raining. How could I have questioned the coucal?

It was about midnight before I got to bed. I felt very privileged to have attended the event that evening and I checked that the various family photos had come out well. With so many people in so many photos, Thulani would be receiving quite a large package of pictures from me.

Day 8
My bags were mostly packed and I paid my bills this morning so I would be ready for departure after lunch. There was a bit of a delay in returning my credit card documentation and staff members were obviously searching for something. Turns out the stapler was misplaced. They asked if it was ok just to fold the documents together. Here would have been a perfect use Lynda’s mini stapler! Who says you don’t need a stapler in the bush? I could have whipped that thing out and saved the day.

Our last game drive started an hour later than usual at my request, given our previous late night, and we joked about sending out the other rangers to bring us some sightings. That’s exactly what happened and we had our final cheetah, a big male resting along a slightly elevated ridge in the savanna. There are no termite mounds in Phinda, which often serve as lookout spots for cheetah elsewhere. We left the cheetah only for some morning cookies and a pit stop and then returned. It was getting to be about 9:50 am and I knew checkout was 11:00. I reluctantly suggested that whenever they wanted to head back, it was ok with me. Thulani responded, “With my two weeks coming up, we can stay a bit longer. This is my last cheetah too.”

Now there’s a ranger who loves what he does and what’s out there. Though it took the whole trip to get it, that poignant comment became my Quote of the Trip. Together we watched our last cheetah for a few more precious moments.

Once years ago I was scanning with my binocs to see what there was, and found an elephant - Great! then as I was looking over the ele using the binoculars, I saw his 5th leg, up close and very personal!! Holy smokes!! So, it's a good idea sometimes to check out the big picture first...

Thanks for a great report, Lynn.

:'( (sniff, sniff.)
Man, that ending brought a tear to my eye.

I'm so glad you enjoyed your time at Phinda and with Thulani. He's a great guide and a great person.

A fun trip report.

What a fantastic report Lynn and wonderful photos, especially the giraffes, I would have been on cloud 9 seeing them altogether

I'm so glad you enjoyed Forest Lodge. Whilst reading your report it really brought it back to me how wonderful the employees are at Phinda Forest Lodge. I really felt they made our trip very special and memorable, it sounds like you experienced something similar.

The 'Hunter' family sounded like far from ideal vehicle mates, I guess that's the luck of the draw, well done for keeping your cool. If I interpreted it correctly, you were on your own for the final 2 drives, that must have been most welcome after your previous companions.

The evening you spent with Thulani and his family must have been very special, what a wonderful experience for both you and them. I'm sure they will appreciate the photos you send.

Fabulous ending Lynne. Where were the Hunters from? I'm guessing....Texas?

Leslie

Lynn, I am so happy to read about your time spent with the hunters, as it makes me feel better.

Hills - I also stayed at Vlei and had the wonderful Thulani. The key is having your TA request him ahead of time and hope for the best.

Lynn and Carla, try a title with something like "three weeks in Africa."

At Phinda, we were lucky to have Thulani to ourselves for one or two drives. Then he said another couple was coming in but they were birders. He knew that we had spent three days with birders at another camp and specifically requested not to be with them. So he offered with a smile, "Let's boot them." We didn't know that was possible and said great. He said they'd put them in another car.

Unfortunately, the manager got huffy when he heard that later and told us it wasn't possible. So fine, we'll make the best of it. So on our next drive, we had to cut a viewing short so we could rendevous with them on the middle of a game drive. At other camps, if guests arrive after a game drive starts, they just get to lounge around the camp - at least that's what we did. But we pick them up. They instantly tell us they saw black rhino, including a baby, on the road (they drove in from Jo'burg). I said really and explained that was the holy grail around there, that everyone wanted to see the black rhino baby but no guests had. They just laughed at me like I was stupid and assured me they had seen black rhino.

They had been to Phinda before so I assumed they were correct. Later Thulani told me he knew for a fact they did not see black rhino. The reason this mattered was because if they thought they had seen it, they would not be pushing for trying to find in on a game drive. The wife wanted to see elephants which is not really Phinda's speciality and also very tough at that point because they were darting them from helicopters now for contraception.

But you'll love this, Lynn. The next morning, we set our alarm and show up promptly at the dining lodge to leave and they are not there. Thulani says he called them twice. We end up waiting half an hour, which is not pleasant at that very early hour and the sun has now risen, missing the great sunrise photos. The wife shows up, *no* apology, and says the husband wanted to sleep in. Well, I would have loved to have slept in too. Then she proceeded to spoil a surprise for us that I won't go into detail here but suffice to say that we had to divert ourselves to meet up with him again as some vehicle brought him to meet us later (if there was another vehicle, why not put them in it?).

I wish Phinda would do what other camps do and if someone misses their drive time (especially for something as stupid as being lazy), just leave and not hold up the other guests.

Thulani brought you to his family home because you were such a smart, sensitive and appreciative guest. If only they all were like you.

I hope you don't mind me going on here, but it all relates to Phinda. Another thing you might be interested in, you mentioned that Thulani said his "wife to be." The reason for that is because in his culture, he has to pay a kind of dowry before he can marry. So they have children and have lived as man and wife but he can't afford to pay her family yet. He is not happy about this and feels it is an old custom that must change. This came out in a dinner discussion (the rangers usually do take at least one dinner with you there) and was quite interesting, although we felt bad for Thulani.

The other thing I liked about Thulani was his personality was just right for us. He is somewhat thoughtful and reserved, although has a clever sense of humor at the right time. But mostly, he takes your game viewing very seriously and - especially at these prices - we appreciate that.

If we had to do it over again, and in reality we'd move on to a completely new camp (which is not to say that I don't love CCAfrica, they are a great group), we'd pick Forest over Vlei. We had a very nice large family (with well behaved kids) at Vlei but then it meant we only had the one couple to be in the car and to eat dinner with. At Forest, there would have been more choices. Also the computers work at Forest and there is a great gift shop. And at Vlei, we never got the choir. The problem is you pick a small camp for an intimate feeling but if a group is there (however nice they are), it changes that.

Lynn, showing the other side, that it isn't all perfect, really rounded out your fabulous trip report for me. Great writing.

Sorry, I do not know why the overstriking appears sometimes when I post.

Not sure if this is applicable, but if you use < s > (strikeout) it will make the result you obtained. Thusly...

Lynn, I never would have been able to remain as polite and cool-as-a-cucumber as you apparently did with the Hunters. Kudos to you for not letting it spoil your time at Phinda.

Wonderful report. Beautifully written, just like being there. The good and the bad. Mostly good, as you have such a sunny outlook.

Lynn, I understand why the nyala males became your favourites. That broadside display is quite impressive. The rhino walk sounds extremely interesting. I just hope that one day I’ll have a guide like Thulani.

I’m trying to write a trip report 1/4 as good as yours, but I’m stuck. I’ll have to get less ambitious.

Lynn,

What a special treat to have a visit and meal with Thulani's family. It is most definitely a tribute to you. What a wonderful ending to your Phinda stay. Thank you for writing such an informative report.

I'm so happy you enjoyed it. Sniff, sniff, for me too.

CW

Speaking of cheetah calls (see Lynn's Day 5), you can hear them in the African film "Duma," about a boy and his cheetah on a motorcycle adventure in the bush. Wonderful movie, a must for Africa and animal lovers.
Leslie

Lynn, what a great report. I asked my TA to request Thulani, so we'll see what happens. Keeping my fingers crossed.

I'd be more than happy to take the pictures of his family to Phinda for you. I leave two weeks from this coming Friday.

Btw, are you in Chicago?

Wow, again, Lynn. No stone left unturned - flatulence to orchids. Beauty and Hunters - oy. Singing, dancing, meeting Zulu's and walking with rhinos. This truly is my kind of trip. Yours apparently, as well.

Hmmmm, I wonder if my TA will get angry with me for asking for yet one more change.

Your photos are as impressive as your well thought out trip.
Love the Nyala bulls (yellow socks and fringe - how cool is that?) the females btw, are beauties as well. The cheetah shots are perfect as well as the wind blown lions.

I shall go to bed happy tonight.
Thanks for sharing.

LALeslie, I deliberately did not include the hunters' home and I'll just keep that one a secret. But it was not what I would have expected. I think they had moved.

Momliz, Holy smokes is right. Sometimes you can't even fit it in the viewfinder.

Clematis,
I was able to read everything even with the strikeout. I'll be looking for the report. Now I think I remember it.

You were there during the contraception darting! The effects lingered and the eles were hiding out during the day for my stay.

Thanks for your additional Phinda insights.

Your experience with latecomers makes me think we should have a strategy in place for that scenario. Maybe tell the manager or whoever gives you the introduction/orientation that if other guests are more than X minutes late, you'll be hunting up the manager for a transport vehicle for the latecomers. But who wants to sound like a demanding jerk before you even finish your welcome drink and before a problem arises? And while the on-time party is looking for the manager, the late arrivals will show up and the on-time party is gone, further delaying things.

Leely,
The Hunters were more a source of humor than frustration. They were late twice and since I believe 3 strikes and you're out, I would have lost my niceness on the third late arrival. But it did not come to pass.

Divewop,
Leaving Phinda brought a tear to my eye.

Mancfi,
I was alone for the last 4 activities, one of them the canoe trip. The Hunters were not ideal, but we had some good sightings together.

Nyamera,
It will probably be a long time before I see a nyala again. Did I read you were in the Mara twice? I bet that S3 produced some good shots.

Hills27,
If I can get my act together and get those photos developed, I'd love to take you up on the offer. I am not that far from Chicago, but would probably mail them to you, not hand deliver them.

Just don't give them to the US postal service....Chicago has the worst record in the country!

I will email you with my address and phone number. As long as I get them by the 9th (leaving the morning of the 10th), I can take them. That gives you 16 days!

Btw, I'm finally looking at your pics. What camera did you use?

Finally, what did you take warm clothes-wise and did it work?

Yes, I was in the Mara twice. The S3 would have produced some good shots if I’d read your photography advice before my trip, if I’d had some light, if … They’re in Kodakgallery and I’ll post them when I’m ready to post the first part of my report. Do you do proofreading? What about ghost writing? I’m just writing down what happened. Could you add some intelligent reflections?

I think you should skip Brazil and go visiting the nyalas again.

Many photo places that are chains will let you place your order online and pick up at various locations. For example, on www.walgreens.com you can specify any of numerous Chicago locations for pick up. You can pre-pay so the recipient doesn't have to. That circumvents the notorious Chicago post office!

Good idea Marija. I don't want Hills to have any extra duties on my part, though so I'd use FedEX or UPS or something. It was Walgreens that I was going to use to develop the photos--today I think. You've inspired me to get right on it.

I used a Sony DSC H2 and DSC H9.

Nyamera,
Your suggestion of returning to the nyala did cross my mind. I am sticking with Brazil, though. I'll be looking forward to the Kodak gallery. Your report will be great.

Cybor,
What kind of change are you thinking of?
I hope you woke happy too. That reminds me of the kind African greeting:

"Did you sleep well?"
If the answer is yes.
"Then I slept well."

Warm clothes I used. I am always the coldest person in the room:

Head--Wool beanie as they call them. Also a wool headband that would allow my Tilley hat over the top for sun protection, though it was a tight fit wearing both. One of those things that is like a sock for your neck that skiers use.

Upper body--I took 2 short sleeved shirts, but rarely used them.

Typically, I would layer
-T-shirt
-Long sleeved collared shirt
-Lightweight fleece pullover
-thick fleece zip jacket
-thin gortex rain coat--more like a shell
-winter vest with fleece on the inside and water resistant material on the outside

I'd remove layers as needed. In the pm I'd take some of those layers in my backpack and put them on as needed. Often the raincoat was left out of the wardrobe.

Bottom:
Next to skin I'd wear thin pullup pants made out of a soft material. You can see these green pants hanging out from my outer pants in a couple of pictures of me, especially the one where I am playing tracker at Phinda.

Then I'd wear my zip-offs. The only time I zipped them off was for the canoe trip and then I wore only that one pair. No other pairs underneath.

Over the top I'd have fleece pullups. I often wore three pairs of pants.

For rhino tracking, where you are on the move on foot I wore:

-Tilley or baseball cap
-shortsleeved, collared shirt
-over the collared shirt, a long-sleeved T-shirt
-sometimes my fleece zipper jacket

Just one pair of zipoffs for pants

Footware for very wet grass.

Hills,

Have a great trip! Thanks for all the tips on Lima and S America.

Lynn, Enjoyed your reports! Be safe in South America. I am headed out in a few days and hoping Galapagos and Machu Picchu areas are not as cold as SA.

-Granny Joan

Lynn, thanks for the details. I usually run hot, so I think I'll be fine with my plan of a fleece, windbreaker, down vest, hat and gloves. Did you get my email? I'll send you the address of the Walgreens around the corner.

GJ, have a great trip. Can't wait to hear about GI. You won't be cold in MP. I wore khakis and a long sleeved t-shirt during the day with a fleece or sweater for the early morning/late afternoons. For dinner, it was usually jeans, a sweater, and an alpaca wrap.

Thanks hills for additional info. If you have a cashmere or wool or knit scarf for Africa. I wrapped it around my head to keep ears warm and put my hat on top of it. It worked great and doesn't take up much room in duffle. If you get cold, most jeeps have blankets and some offer water bottles. The water bottles with blanket were nice for keeping the legs warm.

We ate outside in Boma at MM during our stay every nite and we all bundled with jackets and tried to get the chair on the side of the table near the firepit. No need for a lot of clothes when you are bundled in jacket in the jeep and at dinner, no one even knows what you are wearing.

Have a great trip. Wish I was headed back to Africa instead of to GI. But this is a trip that we have wanted to take for 10 years.

-Granny Joan

Lynn, you are so right, it's tough to bring up this issue of latecomers right at the welcome drinks. I think what I will do next trip is to have my TA ask early on what the camp's policy is on latecomers. It will be a factor to help decide if that is the camp for us. I've also come to see there are advantages to camps that do not have a two-tiered pricing system depending on your country of origin.
Hills, your wardrobe plan sounds perfect.

Lynn, what a truly wonderful trip report, it's got it all. I can hardly wait not only until I get back to Africa, but until Lynn goes again, just so we can get her next report.

Hguy,
When do you go so we can see your report?

What's this about two-tiered pricing? If I pay the higher tier, then of course I am against it. Good idea to ask in advance about latecomers.

Lynn,

Sorry, I didn't mean to give the impression we were going back soon. We just got back in March, and although we probably won't be able to get back again for two or three years, that doesn't mean I can't (although I will have to) wait to get back.

Hguy47,
Thanks for the kind comments. Until you are there again, physically, you can hang out here, virtually.

What a great report, Lynn. Thanks!

The finale brought a tear to my eye as well. What a fabulous trip Lynn. Your photos are terrific. I admire your writing skills and thanks for the laughs too

I was trying to figure out for the past couple weeks what bird was making the sound that kind of sounds like a continuous camera shutter and I think its your favorite hoopoe:
http://everyoneweb.com/WA/DataFilesngala/hoopoe.wav

Is this right?

Lynn,
Fantastic photos. I can't decide which is my favorite, the cheetah stretching, giraffe lined up as if posing for you, mother and baby nyala, baby rhino, nyala bull....the list goes on. I haven't had time to read the trip report yet. I thought I'd just skim through it, but you caught my attention at the very start, so now I can't wait to read it through properly. Welcome back, and again thanks for the wonderful photos.

Dana

Thanks for all the nice comments and the hoopoo recording!

Fabulous, fabulous, fabulous!

Lynn,
Since returning from my solo trip to Northern Tanzania with CC Africa, I am thinking about my next trip. I am hoping to go to Phinda, but didn't want to go alone again. After reading your report, I may reconsider. It was lovely, and I can now appreciate staying at a location for a while to really get to know it and experience more and diverse activities. I was limited on time last month and stayed at the crater for 2 nights and Klein's Under Canvas for 2.

Thanks for such a great report. Hopefully I will get to go soon.
Kelly

Lynn:

Wonderfully written and descriptive report.

If someone had say 8 nights for a first time in SA safari, would you recommend spitting it between Mala Mala and Phinda? or stay only at Phinda and split N and S?

Thanks.

Bat, as someone who just did that (split my SA time between those two, although it was not a first time safari), I would not pick your last choice. I think someone would not be unhappy if they spent the whole time at Mala Mala, as many here have done. They really have it together. For variety, some might consider maybe 2 nights at Phinda. The problem is the transfer is very expensive. Leave your email if you want more info.

IF first time safari in SA, I would be tempted to split the 8 nights. If all at one camp, you may have a feeling that you have experienced only one thing. Although I hasten to add that 8 nights at MalaMala would be just great for me. The transfer to Phinda will be a few hundred $$$ and likely take all day. You may have to fly back to JNB as part of the transfer, I'm not sure, you need to check into that. Does atravelynn cover that transfer in her report, she did that.

Ok, all that said, again for first time SA, I'd do 4 nights at maybe Kings Camp in Timbavati reserve just north of Sabi Sands or another camp in Sabi Sands. Then Mala last. The transfers between these camps will be quick and a lot less $$$ than going to Phinda.

regards - tom

Last September we spent four nights at Phinda, two at Londolozi (more nights not available), and three at Ngala Tented. Our transfer from Phinda to Londolozi (sorry don't know the cost) was direct by small plane. Londolozi is next to Mala Mala so I assume the transfer time would be the same, an hour a quarter, roughly. We did the morning game drive and Phinda and arrived at Londolozi for a late lunch and the afternoon drive.

The four nights at Phinda were good for us coming from the long flight and considering we wanted to do one optional activity. It was our first safari and I'm happy we were able to see three camps and three distinctive areas, though two would have been just fine.

CW

Hi Tom, we can't recall the exact price of flying in a small private chartered plane (the only way we were told after much squirming on our part) from Phinda to Mala Mala, but it was way more than a few hundred dollars. Very expensive. We did not go back to JNB and the flight was only an hour ish.

I like your suggestion of a Sabi Sands camp and finishing at Mala Mala.

We're flying directly between Phinda and Sabi Sand in a few weeks, so it doesn't take all day. Don't know the cost because it was included in our total. But I wouldn't discount the idea just because it might add cost to your trip. After all, all that matters is whether it fits into your budget or not. Obviously, it worked for Lynn and me.

I recommend everyone ask their outfitter or TA what the cost of each portion of their trip is, if it is a custom safari you've organized. You should know. Then you'll know if you paid $1386 for a shared plane charter from Phinda to Mala Mala. That is for two people one way for about 1 hour, folks.

We thought that was too high and found a better quote from a different airline for $960. It's still a lot of money for one hour of transfer.

In addition, it cost $670 on a shared flight to get to Phinda from JNB.

Mala Mala to JNB on a larger SA plane was $418.

Bat,

For the most intense game viewing, 8 at mm wins.

For variety I´d do 4 mm and 4 Phinda. I would suggest the 4 be spent at Forest Lodge but a 2/2 split between N/S would also be good.

To do all 8 at Phinda with a 4/4 split, you´d have to have a special interest in that area or want to do a variety of the activities offered. I think 8 nights, without rhino tracking, flight of the eagle aerial viewing, canoeing, etc. could get just a little long for the average safarier.

I did mm first then Phinda because the no-single-supp room had to be certain dates and I could not leave earlier to stick Phinda on the front. So I had an overnight in Joburg between the 2.

I'm doing 6 nights later this month - 3 at Rock and 3 at Vlei - before going on to Singita Ebony and Lebombo. I'll let you know what I think when I return.

Lynne, excuse my stupidity, but what's N/S?

I was wondering the same thing but all I can come up with was North and South...?

Hills, I can imagine how excited you must be getting!!!

Hills, looking at this map Vlei and Forest Lodges are in the Northern area of the reserve, Rock and Mountain Lodges are in the Southern. I wonder if that's what she meant? I just read Lynn is on safari in Brazil for 3 weeks.

http://www.eyesonafrica.net/south-african-safari/kwazulu-natal-safari.htm

Right now, I'm more stressed than excited. I had expected to pack today, but I've spent the last 24 hours in agony in bed. Had an awful reaction to the Tetanus vaccine I had yesterday. Never doing that again!

Carla and Hills, yes, she meant North and South. Hills, I like that you are going to Phinda and then Singita after. Should be a fantastic trip (we were at Singita Boulders (right next door) 4 years ago and saw incredible game every drive - saw eles surrounding rhino, leopard in tree with kill, followed hunting leopards, saw several active cheetah, hippo on land, rhino within yards of our vehicle, etc. Have never heard of a tetnus reaction like that, I hope it is over soon.
Lynn is on another safari??? what a life!

Thanks!

The reaction is partially my own damn fault. I had a bad reaction the last time. So, when I went to the travel medicine center this time, I declined the Tdap shot and promised to think about it (thinking to myself, NFW). But when I went back for the second hepatitus shot, she was so adamant, I caved. If I wasn't already in so much pain, I'd be kicking the crap out of myself for being so wimpy.

And not only do I still have to pack. I first have to pack for a business trip tomorrow. Ack!!!!

Hills, just keep thinking about those leopards and cheetah that await you.

My thoughts exactly!

My mother called me a while ago to tell me she finished packing. (Thanks for rubbing it in, Mom!) I told her I was packing for Denver. She asked what for? (grrrrrrrrrrrrr.......)

WOW Lynn, another fantastic trip report. The game viewing overall sounds fantastic, but I particularly enjoyed reading your descriptions of rhino tracking and of course, Phinda's cheetah. And the Zulu village vist and dinner at Thulani's mother's homestead...what perfect accompaniments to gameviewing.

I love your stories about Ma and Pa Hunter and children. Sounds like the family I met at Forest Lodge a few years ago. Are they from Mountain Brook, AL? Glad you weren't stuck with them for the entire stay, and that the Costa Rican family were enjoyable vehicle/rhino tracking mates. And of course that you had so many activities on your own. What a great trip.

oops--sorry, I goofed and did not post thank yous for the answers to my Q--so belated thanks to lynn, clematis, tom, and cw.

We did a 2-night/3-day walking safari at Phinda and I highly recommend it. There's a combination of walking and game drives and we were able to see LOTS of animals (both large and small) this way.
I know that a walking safari is not for everyone, but I do think that it would be very doubtful to find a family like The Hunters on this kind of adventure. Only 8 guests at a time can take the walking safari (since there are only 4 tents) and I must say that everyone in our group was on time and ready to go for every game drive and walking excursion--even at 6:30 am!
If anyone has any questions about the walking safari, ask away!

Thanks for the kind words.

N/S refers to North and South. Not non-smoking.

The walking safari did look enticing. When I was booking, you had to book certain days for it. Then they changed it so that you book the walking part just like any lodge on any days you want.

Hills, from your recent emails it appears you recovered with no lingering effects for the trip. Soon we'll be reading about your Phinda experiences. I won't spill the beans with any of the extra special sightings you mentioned in your emails.

Lynn, I have been waiting for your return to ask you.... when you were planning your MM/Phinda trip, did you ever consider the Timbavati region (Ngala, Kings Camp for example). If so, what made you choose Phinda over this area?

Ah ha! Hills snuck in and out without us knowing...I am eager to hear about your trip too!

Amazing photos Lynn! We still have not seen rhino but we hope to some day. The giraffe photo was great as were the leopard ones and all th rest!

Thanks for your nice reports Lynn,great reading.

The MalaMala minute by minute was very amusing to follow.

Paco.

Carla,

If I had another 3 days for that trip I would have gone to King's Camp in Timbavati based on what I've read and what Nicky at Eyes on Africa said about it.

I had rhino and cheetah as priorities for the trip. When I learned Phinda was a cheetah conservation area with rhino tracking, it made sense to go there and stay there.

I spent a week at Phinda because I wanted to do 3 rhino tracking trips and I knew those would eat up at least 3 mornings of potential traditional game viewing. Since I did hope to see cheetah, I felt I should spend at least 4 additional full days looking for them. It was Day #5 before I saw a cheetah at Phinda during the day. I saw a total of 6 cheetah, 7 sightings. I also felt with Phinda's 7 distinct habitats that I would need more time to get to them and see what each had to offer.

With cheetahs looming large for me I asked myself, "Why should I cut time at a cheetah sanctuary and spend it elsewhere?" I could not come up with a good answer so I booked a week at Phinda. If cheetahs had not been a priority, then I would have spent about 4 nights at Phinda. That is enough time to enjoy the different habitats, track rhino, and check out the wildlife.

Thanks Lynn. You certainly are the animal magnet. I would guess it's from all your great research plus a little luck (or give us a hint on your secret)

Just got back. I am thoroughly exhausted, but I'm trying to stay awake to reset my clock.

The trip was fantastic, and Phinda thoroughly exceeded my expectations. Our sightings could not have been better, but I'll save the details for my trip report. If I get a second wind, I'll try to start it this afternoon. Of course, the worst part will be trying to come up with a title even remotely as catchy as Lynn's.

Carla, we stayed 6 days (split between Rock and Vlei), and I am so happy we did. I could have stayed even longer. Lynn is spot on...there's so much diversity among the habitats, which really became evident upon our stay at Singita Ebony and Lebombo. But our vehicle mates went on to Ngala after Vlei, so I will email them for you to find out how it compared to Phinda.

Welcome back Hills! I can't wait to hear about your trip. Rest up

I'm so sleepy, but I must stay awake. Otherwise, I'll never recover from the jet lag. Two weeks of 5:30 am wake up calls make the jet lag so much worse!

Hills27,
Now there's the animal magnet, based on the couple of emails I received. Welcome home!

Thanks!

I just looked and I have over 3,000 pictures...eek!...nearly 400 of which are of just one cheetah sighting alone.

I've officially caught safari fever.

Step away from the camera......

LOL, Matt.

Welcome back Hills-
looking forward to hearing all about your trip, especially my beloved Phinda!

Hey, it works out to only 30 shots per hour of game drive....perfectly reasonable!

Of course, the Amarula-spiked hot chocolate might have had something to do with my lack of restraint.

Hills,

Welcome back. Can't wait to hear about your trip.

We enjoyed the one day we had in Lima ... saw some nice sites and wished we had more time there. Missed the earthquake thank goodness.

Glad you had a great time.

-Granny Joan

Hope you enjoyed the Galapagos, GrannyJoan and glad you missed the earthquake.