Penguins to Puku: Report on Cape Town and S. & N. Luangwa

CAPE TOWN AND SIMONS TOWN

Take2 Tours Though I knew nothing about the company, I stuck with this recommendation by African Shark Eco-Charters. And I am glad I did!

From my first email correspondence, which soon escalated into an assault from me on Take2’s inbox, I was impressed. In 18 months of contact, I made many tweaks, date changes, and alterations to my plans. All were accommodated graciously by owner, Wayne, with guidance and redirection bestowed when needed.

I ended up having Wayne book the hotels I chose (from choices recommended by African Shark Eco-Charters and Take2) and get my Robben Island tickets. He made sure I had all the confirmation numbers, and provided copies on my arrival.

He was especially helpful with Robben Island where there was a slight problem with the booking office and he alerted me to bring the credit card used to reserve the ticket.

Wayne was great in every respect and contributed in a huge way to my enjoyment of the Cape Town environs. His general knowledge of the area was immense and he knew the tricks and short cuts for what I wanted to do, such as hiking certain trails in the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve and dropping me off and picking me up in the best spots.

He made the time-saving and money-saving suggestion of having me do Robben Island on my own, my first morning in Cape Town, after checking out of the Waterfront Hotel and storing my bags at reception. Then he picked me up at the ferry dock, we retrieved the bags, had lunch, and began our Cape Town sight seeing that ended in Simons Town.

He had some good back up plans when last minute changes were needed. The cable car was not running on Table Mountain so instead we headed up Signal Mountain for nice views. The noontime canon blast on Signal Mountain represents the longest running daily cannon firing tradition in the world. Chapman’s Peak road was closed, so we went as far as we could and then headed to scenic Hout Bay.

Though I did not do a township tour, I ran into a family at the baboon walk who was raving about their recent township visit. They mentioned their guide named Wayne. When I inquired further, we discovered it was our very own Wayne of Take2 Tours!

Even with all he did for me, I believe I did not even really tap into Wayne’s forte. He could recommend what to order at various restaurants in and around Cape Town, from entrees to dessert. (I did follow some of this menu advice with great success.) He knew the wines and wineries, where to get the best croissants, what art galleries to go, which gift shops had the most unique book selections, the charms of each bay around Cape Town. For anyone with epicurean interests beyond, say, munching a sandwich and Ranch Doritos on the shark boat in the stench of Seal Island, Wayne would be a most valuable resource.

Wayne’s helpfulness and dedication can be seen in this example. On the day we went to Kirstenbosch Gardens, I came right off the shark boat to meet him at the dock. He arranged for me to change clothes in the restroom of a nearby restaurant, so I could remove some long underwear and other layers that I needed on the boat. We piled my extra clothes, including my waterproof socks and balaclava, in the back seat and we were off. After a lovely day at the gardens, Wayne drove back to Sea Spray. He gathered up the huge pile of clothing, which represented about four extra layers for top and bottom, with his one arm-—my waterproof socks and balaclava dangling. He was on his cell phone with his other hand to Rikki Taxi or somebody on my behalf, as he schlepped my wardrobe down the steps to the entrance of Sea Spray. He truly had his hands full with helping to make every part of my Cape Town trip enjoyable.

Why I based myself in Simons Town When I was first investigating a stay in the Cape Town area, I had these priorities in no particular order (a) Robben Island (b) Great White Sharks (c) Baboon Walks (d) Penguins (e) Cape Nature Reserve (f) ocean views. Regardless the activities, I had to have a safe environment where I could walk around comfortably.

It didn’t take much research to realize there was a place where I could do it all and it would work logistically. Two words: Simons Town. Or, depending on what source you are reading, one word: Simonstown.

Simons Town just might be my new Favorite City!

Great start, Lynn. I'll be skipping your wine recs, so thanks for putting them in red and saving me a lot of trouble.

Robben Island Comments Only Robben Island was clearly a Cape Town activity and that’s why we put it right at the start of the trip since I arrived in Cape Town.
The morning departure is at 9:00 am and returns about 12:30 pm back at the Waterfront dock.

This was a tremendously moving experience for me, not so much because of the physical buildings I was seeing, but because our guide was a former prisoner. Once on the island, we spent quite a bit of time sitting, looking out the bus window, and listening to Guide Mosebe (spelling?) explain the area and his experiences in prison. He told of his first impressions of Mandela, which were quite negative, and how he came to respect, admire, and follow the man. It was riveting.

Seeing Mosebe’s view from his cell and where his bunk stood while he explained to us his typical prison day routine was surreal. He even recited a poem he had written while in prison. Somebody asked Mosebe if he sometimes became emotional during these tours. He responded that a few weeks ago, he came around a corner and the sudden sight of the prison building that had been his home caused him to collapse and fall to the ground. It took him a few minutes to recover and continue the tour.

This is not a tour for little children, at least not the way I did it. There is too much sitting still and listening for the attention span of little ones. It is not like a museum where you wander around at will and can escape with fussy kids. We had an incident on our bus where a 2- and 4-year old were causing a disturbance and being allowed to do so. Mosebe had words (and rightfully so) with the parents who were very defensive and argumentative but after that they kept the kids quiet by feeding them biscuits non-stop.

Mosebe also admonished an adult whose cell phone went off and who took the call (chat, chat, chat), talking over Mosebe’s account of hardship and torture in the prison. Unbelievable! Fortunately, these incidents were early on in the tour while we were on the bus and detracted only momentarily.

* If Robben Island is a priority for you, plan it for your first day in Cape Town so if the ferry cannot sail, you have some backup days. Bad weather and waves cancelled eight straight days of trips before I arrived.

* I walked the 2-3 blocks to the Clock Tower where the ferry to Robben Island departs, leaving from The Waterfront Hotel about 7:40 am, sunrise in mid-July. The Waterfront area employs its own security and it was very safe as I wandered around until 9:00 am departure time.

* Buy your tickets a few days before departure. Maybe even a few weeks or months. I had Take2 Tours do this for me and charge my credit card about $18, a tremendous value in my opinion. Maybe you can call the ticket office direct.

* If you can pick up the ticket the day before, that’s good so you do not have to wait in line just before your trip departs. The ferry holds about 260, so that’s lots of people in line.

* Hang onto your confirmation number and bring your credit card that you used to make the Robben Island reservation. I had a small problem due to computers or something and the confirmation was helpful for me.

* The 30-minute ferry ride was not enough to cause me to reach for the bags that are provided at each seat, and I had not taken anything to prevent seasickness, but I was glad to get off when we docked. Seas were rolling but fairly calm that day with only a few white caps.

* On the lower deck of the ferry, a video on the history of the island plays on the way over and a video on how the ferry you are riding on was made plays on the way back.

*You get to see Mandela’s cell. That was what drew me to Robben Island. By the end of the visit, I found the cell itself to be just a tiny part of the overall Robben Island visit, as I experienced it.

* I had been told about the infestation of rabbits on the island. They were everywhere and pose a big environmental problem.

* If you are going on to Boulder’s Bay, don’t worry about not being able to get pictures of the numerous but elusive penguins on the island.

Great White Sharks at Seal Island in False Bay departing Simons Town with African Shark Eco-Charters
All the details, plus info on accommodations, are contained in a previous post, linked here. http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=4&tid=35149177

Penguins in Boulders Bay in Simons Town Comments
* It is so easy to get to the penguins on foot from anywhere in Simons Town. It is about a 20-minute walk from the shark boat dock along the main street and walking around Simons Town is completely safe. The prominent naval base there seems to contribute to the safety.

* There are two entrances to the penguins along the main street. I would suggest entering at one and exiting at the other to be sure you cover all their habitat areas.

* The entrance fee is 25 Rand, but if you just want to walk along the boardwalk that is the farthest from the ocean, where the penguins nest and hang out, there is no charge. I always paid the entrance fee for greater access.

* The hours of operation for the park vary by season, but in July it was 8:00 to 5:00, with the last people admitted at 5:00, but you did not have to leave right at 5:00 if you were already in.

* I had read to avoid visiting on weekends because it can get crowded. There was even a sign at the entrance that indicated: Open, Closed, and Full. I can’t imagine how unpleasant it would be if the place reached maximum capacity. But in July there were not many people and I couldn’t tell the difference in numbers between weekday and weekend.

* There were dassies sitting around (singular dassey) that lived near the penguins and were submissive to them. They are like rock hyraxes.

* Around 4 pm to 5 pm, groups of penguins came ashore after fishing in the ocean. That was exciting to see them waddle out of the water onto the beach en masse. About an hour to an hour and a half before they made it to shore, you could look out in the ocean and see groups of tiny black and white shapes bobbing in the waves in the distance.

One night the penguins arrived about 4:50 pm on the main beach. Another night one small group got back about 5:45 and the other penguins were still at sea and looked like they would beach themselves in an area where you couldn’t see them.

* I spent two 3-hour sessions with the penguins and one final short visit before leaving for the airport and enjoyed every minute. In contrast, I overheard others saying they were not that impressed with the penguins, plus they smelled. It’s true about the smell.

* I saw tours that spent less than an hour with the penguins. That is plenty of time to cover the entire grounds and see probably 100+ penguins—adults, chicks, juveniles—on the beach and in the nesting areas. It is not enough time if you want the perfect penguin picture or you want to watch more than a few twig’s worth of nest building or you want to wait for them to swim ashore after their day in the ocean.

* Wayne of Take2 suggested having Malva, a traditional bread pudding dessert, at the restaurant at Boulders Bay. I did not manage to order it at that particular location.

Comments on the Baboon Walk with Baboon Matters I felt this encounter was right up there with the gorilla and chimp visits. The baboons are habituated to human presence in similar manner and you get a close glimpse of troop life for a couple of hours, with no set time limit for the visit.

Participation in this activity at 250 Rand/person (lots less than the $500 gorilla visit) supports two dozen local monitors who help keep the baboons away from the towns so they don’t raid these inhabited areas. It is a win-win-win scenario for the local citizens who want to be baboon-free, for those employed as monitors, and for the Cape Chacma Baboons—the only protected baboons in Africa.

* There were two troops you could visit, named for the dominant male in each, and I visited both George’s troop and Eric’s troop. Each troop had the whole spectrum of members and they were equally interesting as they went about their business of eating, grooming, mating, sleeping, nursing, playing, sparring, and climbing trees, in our midst.

* Six people go on the walk, so I’d reserve early, since this is popular (and reasonably affordable) for families, who can take up the majority of the 6 spots with parents and a couple of kids. I requested my walk dates and times through the Baboon Matters website about six months in advance.

* Walks require a minimum of two participants, but Baboon Matters agreed to take just me if no one else joined when I scheduled, since I was willing to pay for two under those circumstances.

* There are both morning and afternoon walks that spend about 2 hours with the baboons. My schedule allowed only afternoon visits, which seemed to be a great time to visit.

* The guide carries water that Baboon Matters provides in a backpack and you can stop for drinks any time.

* You meet at the Baboon Matters office, about a 10-minute ride drive from town. It is easy to get to by Rikki Taxi or even the train that runs frequently and stops in Simons Town, then heads down the tracks to stop across from the hotel and offices where Baboon Matters is located.

* From the Baboon Matters office, where the 20-30 minute orientation takes place, you drive to wherever the baboons happen to be and begin the walk. This drive component can be tricky because only certain staff members are licensed to drive paying guests. So you might end up getting a ride with other guests who drove there if you don’t have a car.

One of my scheduled visits even got switched to a different date because of this driving issue. I think more staff are in the process of getting the needed licenses.

*Jenny, the founder, and all of the staff are super people with very interesting lives and tales.

* The baboons were completely non-aggressive, in contrast to behavior that may be witnessed at the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. That’s because the aggressive baboons have been fed and have learned they can acquire food with hostile actions. Wayne of Take2 Tours even told me that the baboons in the reserve target children and people with gray hair because they offer the least resistance to attacks for food. In contrast, the baboons on the walk do not associate people with food and see the monitors and the guide as dominant.

* Unlike gorilla visits, you do not have to stay close together in a small group and remain still. You can venture out several meters in various directions for better views and photos during much of the approximately two-hour visit. We remained prepared to regroup or relocate ourselves at the direction of the guide if needed.

* For one of the visits, the climbing was rigorous, over rocky hill slopes. We felt like mountain goats. In addition, this area had been burned previously and had charred remnants all over. We all ended up with black clothes by the end of the walk, even the guide. Cold water was suggested for washing the charcoal stains out, and it worked, thanks to the complimentary use of the washing machine at Sea Spray.

* The Baboon Walks alone should make Simons Town a prime wildlife destination.

Hi Lynn,

thanks for the great report so far. The Baboon Walks sound as though they are really interesting and provide an opportunity to appreciate baboons.

Looking forward to the N & S Luangwa report.

Cheers,


Pol

Lynn, I am also looking forward to the Zambia portion of your report as I am headed there in mid-October for 3 weeks (Kafue and N & S Luangua -- though Mwaleshi in the N rather than Kutandala...) Cheers, rickmck

I was just wondering when your departure date was, RickMck. I am sure Mwaleshi will be outstanding too and that the camp has some of the same elements that I appreciate about Kutandala. So keep that in mind when I start gushing about the wonders of Kutandala. I've just never been to Mwaleshi.

Kirstenbosch Gardens Comments These botanical gardens are located about halfway between Cape Town and Simons Town and are world renowned, up there with Butchart. I enjoyed an afternoon at Kirstenbosch, which was about right for me, but true garden enthusiasts would want a full day to take it all in.

The gardens are home to the Fynbos species, plants that represent their own Kingdom and are unique to the Cape. There are plants that date back to before the dinosaurs and whole groves of Birds of Paradise. Egyptian Geese and Guinea Fowl roamed the grounds and enjoyed the ponds while sunbirds flitted from flower to flower. You can walk on raised rocks in streams that meander through fern forests.

I especially liked the sculpture garden, where African sculptures are creatively positioned among the plant life, and the vlei with beds of Calla Lillies surrounded by Papyrus.

Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve Comments (Also referred to as Cape Point Nature Reserve) It took about half an hour to get there from Simons Town by car. I spent one and a half days walking trails with magnificent ocean views, driving with Wayne of Take2 Tours though the park in search of wildlife and to see the Fynbos and other endemic vegetation, and just sitting along the beach to watch the waves roll in. You could hike through the park’s many trails for days and wave watch for hours on end.

Here are the hikes I did: From the main Cape Point parking lot, I hiked up to the First Light House and back down to the parking lot and then took the trail that descended to the water’s edge. (Wayne lent me his plant guide, which was helpful, then drove down to the parking lot next to the ocean to meet me.) At a leisurely pace, stopping for photos, spectacular views, lizards, striped mice, and flowers, that entire route took about 100 minutes. The lighthouse segment was easy walking and stair climbing and took about 40 minutes round trip. Even if you turned back before getting to the lighthouse, you would still enjoy spectacular views. Going down to the ocean was very rocky in parts and included both some uphill and down hill walking.

I repeated that hike later in the day without so many stops and it took 20 minutes less. Also from the main Cape Point parking lot, I did a 30 minute round trip hike to the Second Light House. The views were continually breathtaking throughout all the hikes I did. If you do not want to hike, there are many scenic lookout points where you can pull over in a car.

It is always extremely windy at the reserve, so I was glad I wore my wool hat to keep my head and ears warm on the hikes.

We saw quite a few ostriches and some baboons while driving around the reserve. There are also unique antelope species present, plus the rare zebra sighting.

Rikki Taxis (07 23 874 366 in Simons Town) I had read and heard about these, but wasn’t sure if the name was short for rickshaw or if there somebody named Rikki with a car or what. In Simons Town there were about three Rikki Taxis (otherwise known as just Rikkis) running at any given time. They could be described as well worn micro-buses. More than mere transportation, they approached a cultural phenomenon.

I used this very reasonably priced service numerous times but after just a couple of rides, the drivers knew my name and where I was staying. They were all so friendly and good-natured, it was like getting a ride from your buddy—the conscientious buddy who would always show up on time and never forget to pick you up. You could call for a ride as needed or schedule a trip hours or a day in advance. They had just gone to 24-hour service so you’ll never be without a Rikki in Simons Town. The Cape Town Rikki Taxi is a separate company I was told, even though the name is the same.

Great report, as usual! Looking forward to the Zambia portion since that may be my next Africa destination.

When I was in NLNP for a season, I stopped at Mwaleshi Camp several times. It surprised me to see a pride of lions so close to the camp a few of those times-hunting. Just so you know, right along where you walk from the airstrip to the camp.

With all the interest in the Zambia part of the trip (though no hunting lions in NL this time) I better get my fingers flying to finish up the Cape Town stuff, including

THE WINE LIST,

Oh no, Lynn! Now you're making me want to go to Simons Town -- yet another Africa trip to daydream about for the future.

Thanks for the report (and for all your info on the other thread about white sharks, my husband's favorite animal). I'm looking forward to following along through the rest of your trip.

Actually, I'm quite interested in The Wine List also-love SA wine!

MoreMiles, I believe the list may disappoint you, but it is going into the report no matter what.

Restaurants The complimentary breakfasts and fridge at Central Hotel, the daily lunch served on board the shark boat, the lovely self catering kitchen at Sea Spray, and the anticipation of Guz’s cuisine at Kutandala all resulted in only a couple of restaurant meals for me in Simons Town. But they were memorable.

- Pescado’s – Known for reasonable prices and fish, Pescado’s is where I ate my first ever Hake and Chips. I’d had eaten chips before, of course, but never fish called Hake.

During dinner I was joined by an affable guy who immediately began rubbing my ankles and legs. My husband had been clear on the no shark cage directive, but had he said nothing about calf caressing, so I figured it was fine. I knew what my dining partner wanted and against my better judgment, I relented. There was too much tasty hake for me anyway, so I dropped a couple of small pieces on the floor and my new friend halted the ankle rubbing to gobble them up. He hung around a few more minutes to enjoy a couple more bites of fish and then the friendly feline trotted off. I finished the meal alone with a dessert of Malva, a tasty bread pudding that is a local delicacy.

- The Meeting Place – I often order two starters instead of one entrée and that was the plan at The Meeting Place. I had settled on the Parmesan Asparagus and asked the waiter to choose another starter and a South African wine for me. He chose the Moroccan Couscous and poured me a red wine and wrote down the name of it, at my request. My meal, including the wine, was delightful and now I had my wine list.

THE WINE LIST—SOUTH AFRICA, JULY 2008

Goats Do Roam

That’s it. My one wine. And that’s what it’s called. The only wine on my list and it turns out to be goat wine. How embarrassing. It’s not like I’ve listed all sorts of impressive names such as Chardonnay, Shiraz, Cabernet, and Sauvignon and the Goats can Roam discretely in the midst of the these. No, with a single entry, the goats can roam but they can’t hide.

I did not ask what year it was, so I don’t know just when these goats were roaming, nor do I know exactly in which vineyard they chose to roam.

I googled the wine, hoping for some redeeming qualities. I found that it “woos adventurous and discerning consumers.” I may not be all that discerning, but I’m a tad adventurous and it’s nice to know that I was being wooed by my beverage while savoring my asparagus. With increasing enthusiasm, I read it has “full bodied distinct dark fruit and spice.” I vividly recalled some full bodied dark fruit taste during that meal. But then I wasn’t sure if it was the wine or the raisins in my Moroccan Couscous.

“This whimsically named robust wine is perfect for the cold months.” Well, there you go—it was the perfect combo of whimsy and robustness and the perfect choice for July. I drank red Goats do Roam wine and I’m proud of it!

Zambia’s next.

You may see a similarity in the name of the wine and 'Cotes du Rhone'. Also in the Goat Door (Cotes d'Or)

Good wine despite the whimsy.

Hi T'lynn,

great report, of course.

for us, our CPT must see was the table mountain, and like you, we scheduled our "must see" for the first day, so we cold fit it in later if needs be. But needs didn't be cos it was fine and clear of all table cloths on the first day so we got up very early with no problems.

sorry you didn't get to do it as it was a real highlight, as were the Kirstenbosch gardens. i agree that it's a good idea of visit earlier in the day if you're a garden lover [teh light is better in winter] - but if you have a puncture on the way and have to change the tyre by the side of the road with all the advice you've received about NOT stopping, EVER, ringing in your ears, you get there a bit late. but it was stil gorgeous.

love the wine list,

regards, ann

Lynn, that was too funny about your "dining partner"! I thought you had come across the foot masseur from the V&A Waterfront.

The "Goats Do Roam" wine comes from the only winery I ended up visiting in South Africa, the Fairview. They feature their goat tower on a lot of their labels. I think you can get this wine at Cost Plus World Market in the US. The winery also makes and sells goat cheese. They love their goat puns; how about a bottle of "Bored Doe"?

You're right-way too short a wine list! On to Zambia.

Hey Lynn,

Thanks for your recent trip report. Great reading as always.

Will look out for the "Goats can Roam" sounds pretty impressive .........

Look forward to the Zambia segment.
Cheers
Hari

Oops that's "Goats Do Roam" ...... Typo, my bad .......

Hari,

They can roam and they do roam.

Bored Doe, ha ha, Shay Tay.

More Miles, I should call it a wine line rather than a wine list.

You could've tried the Great Little White-it was all of $4 and pretty decent 5yrs ago and a suitable accompanionment(sp?) to your trip!

Moremiles, you've given me the perfect reason for a return. Tbank you!

There is no wine list for Zambia. I did participate in three Amarula toasts, though.

ZAMBIA
There were at least three reasons I wanted to include Zambia on this Africa trip. (1) I wanted to return to my favorite camp, Kutandala in North Luangwa. (2) I wanted Aubrey to be my guide in South Luangwa at the camp he now manages. I had met Aubrey in 2003 in the Lower Zambezi when he was doing a guide exchange program where he joined me in a variety of walking and water activities. (3) I was missing pukus. Though this antelope is common in much of Zamiba, it is not typically seen elsewhere.

Kakuli Camp in South Luangwa The name means old buffalo and that’s what Norman Carr was affectionately called in his later years. This charming camp has five tents without excessive and unnecessary luxury, although my ensuite combo of toilet enclave, spacious foyer, and powder room came close.

Kakuli is perched on the Luangwa with beautiful views of the river and the abundant wildlife it attracts. Camp photos that do not do the place justice will appear at the end of the report.

I was so pleased to meet up with Aubrey again and appreciated his excellent guiding, both in the vehicle and on the walks, as well has his enjoyable e company at mealtime. He looked the same to me. “I am still slowly ticking,” was his response.

I learned after all these years that he had not really enjoyed the canoeing parts of our trip in the Lower Zambezi, his preference was for solid ground where hippos cannot lurk. As I recall, he and I were the only two people who ever wore life jackets in the canoes.

I shared a vehicle with Canadian grandparents and their 14-year old grandson, all on their first safari. They were fine company and always prompt even on the 5:30 am wakeup days for an early departure. Their pleasant dispositions were maintained despite diarrhea affecting 2/3 of them for half of our time together and a couple of wisdom teeth that were making a painful and untimely arrival for the 14-year old.

- Highlights of the drives –
* A pride of 9 lions with 1 male, 4 females, and 4 one-year-old cubs, with the star performance going to a cub in a tree. I never expected tree climbing lions in South Luangwa.

* Each of our two night drives we had wonderful views of hunting leopards. We watched the initial crouching and stalking, then sat in darkness for the majority of the hunts. When alarm calls and scrambling hoofs indicated the chase was on, we turned on the spotlight to see the aftermath. In both cases, the leopard did not make a kill.

The family with me was thrilled with the leopard sightings/photo ops because in 6 days in the Lower Zambezi and 2 nights at Kapani (another Norman Carr camp in the Mfuwe sector) they had gotten only one brief glimpse of a leopard.

*A pair of porcupines waddling around in good view at night.

* a relaxed male kudu and a less relaxed male bushbuck

* About 6 hyenas, all solos I remarked that I was more accustomed to seeing the hyenas in packs but I was told that solitary hyenas were more common in S. Luangwa.

* Elephants digging in the dry sandy river bed for water.

* Every puku was a big deal since that was one of my reasons for coming.

-Highlight of the Sundowers-
Gathered around the sundowner collapsible table, Aubrey and I were reminiscing about one of our previous shared adventures in the Lower Zambezi. We had walked with a pair of honey badgers! It was a first for me and more notably a first for Aubrey. He had never repeated that feat since. Just then, I saw a honey badger wander into the open about 30 meters in front of the vehicle. I was quite proud of my sighting and amused by the coincidental timing.

A little later the sun had set, the glasses were empty, and the miniature gourmet versions of what I grew up calling wiener winks had been consumed. That’s when I heard rustling in a nearby bush. I put my binocs on it and saw our friend, the honey badger. He was about 10 meters from the vehicle and digging madly.

We directed the spotlight on him, which he ignored completely. We could see the rolls of muscle and fat in his neck that looked like those of a Shar Pei, as he dug and dug. This went on about 10 minutes until he reached his prize of something too small to see.

Then the honey badger roamed around the vehicle, alternating between sniffing the ground and gazing at us, maintaining a distance of 8 meters or more. Aubrey suggested we board the vehicle at that point and then he remarked that he had never seen such a relaxed and social honey badger. Another honey badger first for us!

There is some kind of honey badger vibe that manifests itself when Aubrey and Lynn combine forces. So far we are two for two. To put my theory to the test, we’d have to give it one more shot. Sadly, the third trial of the honey badger experiment may never take place, as it is unlikely I’ll manage a return.

-Highlights of the walk- I did one morning walk. Stomach problems kept the grandmother and grandson from joining the grandfather and me on the walk.

* We heard puku alarm calls and squawks of distressed Guinea Fowl. Our tracker thought he saw the flash of leopard fur in the brush. So we headed in. We found fresh leopard tracks, some upset puku and Guinea Fowl but nothing else. It was an exciting way to start the walk.

* 8 round hornbill

* 3 wood hoopoes

* Mother, juvenile, and baby elephant—we were concealed enough so that the mother felt comfortable nursing.

* We smelled it before we saw it. Aubrey pointed out a couple of bones on the ground from a small animal. Aubrey and the tracker weren’t sure what it was until a tiny remnant of fur gave it way. The black spots on white indicated it was a leopard. Then they found the skull and held it up for us to examine and touch the teeth. It was surprising how bad the smell was when there was so little of the remains. We wrapped up that on-foot sighting with a round of sanitizing hand gel. The squirts were on me.

On any walking activity I always like my water bottle on my person, even though we had a porter who carried bottles for us.

Lynn, I’m looking forward to your first picture! Could it be wild dog pups and leopard cubs playing together?

I haven’t read any South Africa guidebooks, but I suspect your comments about how to go about visiting the places on your trip would be more accurate than most guidebooks.

The baboon walk sounds very interesting and could be copied at other places with other baboons.

I don’t eat fish, but would be interested in the calf rubbing at Pescado’s.

I’m very jealous of your honey badger sightings and think you should make spending as much time with Aubrey as possible a top priority in your life.

Lynn,

An enjoyable read as always.

I am curious to see that picture you are referring to.

If I'm not mistaken it's a clan of hyeanas and not a pack (as wild dogs).

Greetz,

Johan

Skimmer,

No wonder I didn't see any packs of hyenas if there is no such thing. I did not see any clans of hyenas either.

If you liked THE WINE LIST, then you'll enjoy that first picture. There is no wine in it, but the principle is the same. I'm slow getting pictures from a couple of memory cards downloaded and sorted. In the meantime, the suspense builds.

Aren't you headed on a mobile in Botswana in Sept?

Nyamera,

If Aubrey and I could team up again, maybe we'd see some honey badgers going after pythons. Or the reverse.

Your stupidity report inspired the next segment of my own report. But I have yet to find anything stupid in your report. Maybe because I am only on Day 6 so far. Or because I am too stupid to dectect the stupidity!

-Wildlife highlights around camp-
* 8 ground hornbill coming to drink at the river

* ever present huge pods of hippos in and out of the water plus crocs on the bank and sandbars

* 1 eland across the river

* 3 lionesses showing interest that was short of actually hunting 2 buffalo on the opposite bank during breakfast

* African skimmers, a couple of fish eagles, yellow billed storks

* puku, impala, a couple hippos, baboons, and vervets at the waterhole next to the dining area

* enough animal noises at night, especially hippos in the river, to be serenaded to sleep by a Luangwa Lullaby

-Highlight of my own stupidity- Unlike another Fodor trip report by Nyamera where stupidity is the title of the whole thing, mine was limited to a single incident—at least I was aware of only one incident.

After our first night drive, we were escorted back to our tents and asked how long we wanted for freshening up, as is the custom. I requested ten minutes.

Five minutes later I was fully refreshed. That’s when I heard a whistle outside my tent. I thought to myself, “This escort is really quick and I recall they usually alert you with something more polite than a whistle. But whatever, I’m ready.” I bounced out onto the veranda but didn’t see anyone. “Now where is he? If he’s going to whistle for me, he needs to show up. What’s going on?” Then I heard the whistle again. It was a puku. The males make a territorial whistle to announce their property rights.

I went back into the tent and awaited the sound of my escort’s footsteps, which were followed by the polite call of, “Good evening.”

In my defense it had been five years since I had heard or seen a puku (that’s why I was missing them) and this was my first night back in Zambia.

Lynn,

I am leaving end of this week for a private mobile safari with Masson safaris - afterwards I will be heading to some of the WS camps in the delta (Duba/Chitabe Lediba/Xigera). I'll be back early October.

Greetz,

Johan

Great trip report Lynn, although I've had to c&p it to read it fully off-line later.

Just a minor correction, the singular of dassies is dassie. It's an Afrikaans word.

Thanks for the help on spelling what I saw, ArthurSA. I liked what I was able to see of your "back yard."

Skimmer, I thought I recalled a mobile in your future. You will be referenced once more in my report in North Luangwa, even though I don't think you've been there.

I'm pretty sure Sniktawk has not read the Highlights of my Stupidity (a couple posts above) or I can imagine his response.

Something like, "Atravelynn, if you don't know a puku whistle from a human whistle, you don't deserve to be missing pukus. Nor do you deserve to take up bed-nights in a place like South Luangwa."

I'm not criticizing Sniktawk or the acerbic comments he throws out. In fact I believe a dash of tabasco thrown into the braai sauce makes for a tastier recipe.

Lynn thanks for helping to treat my Zambia withdrawal pains.


Very interesting about solitary hyenas being more common in the Luangwa valley. I wonder why that would be the case? It fits my experience as I think most of my hyena spottings in both the North and South have also been solo hyenas.

You are not the only one to misinterpret puku calls. In the North Luangwa I would take a chair down to a shady spot on the Mwaleshi each afternoon and have a cigar and beer and watch the wildlife. Puku were regular visitors and I would often hear their whistling. I only thought it was used as a predator alarm call and this puku would have me nervously jumping out of my chair scanning all around the river bank for lions debating whether I should be seeking a safer location. I would see nothing and relax down into my chair again only to hear the whistle again and jump up again. I relayed this story to my guide who asked me if the whistles were in short bursts of three or more of a long whistle. He told me the short bursts are for marking territory whereas the more sustained one was a predatory warning. This damn puku on testosterone was marking territory and had me jumping up and down all afternoon!!

Love the honey badger magic you and Aubrey used to bring these guys out. Would love to see one. I just finished a book by a Botswana guide name Peter Allison where he talks about a honey badger that would come and sit in the camps mess tent like a beagle begging for food. He said the staff as would sit nervously with their hands subtly protecting the family jewels as honey badgers supposedly are known to go after the genitals when attacking a foe. He described them as the toughest animal on the African continent.

I can just imagine a camp full of nervous staff grabbing at their midsections!

-Highlight of the table- Everything I speared with my fork or scooped with my spoon was delicious at Kakuli. But I must single out the chocolate crunch cake that we had at tea as exceptional. If you plan a visit to Kakuli, schedule it around the chocolate crunch cake’s appearance at teatime.

-One of Aubrey’s African tales: The Leopard, the Wart Hog and the Baboon-
This is one of several he told. A leopard came upon a wart hog and was about to kill it. The wart hog had to think quickly to save itself. So the wart hog started licking his lips and said, “That was a tasty leopard I just ate, yes it was. You know I love to eat leopards. Oh, what’s this? I see another leopard. Good, I’ll eat this one too.”

The leopard became scared, turned around and ran, convinced that the wart hog could kill it too, with those mighty tusks. The leopard ran and ran until it was out of breath and then it lay down panting.

Along came a baboon and he saw the leopard. “Why are you so out of breath?” asked the baboon. The leopard recounted his close call with the wart hog and explained that he had run away as fast as he could.

The baboon laughed and said, “You silly leopard, don’t you realize the wart hog was just fooling you? Wart hogs don’t eat leopards. You have been made a fool by that wart hog. Now you must go back and kill it and eat it.”

The baboon agreed to help the leopard find the wart hog who had made the threat. The baboon hopped on the back of the leopard and they rode off in search of the wart hog. Eventually they saw the wart hog grazing. “That’s him,” growled the leopard. “You must kill him,” urged the baboon.

The wart hog again realized he was in trouble resorted to some quick thinking once more. He shouted at the baboon and leopard, “Lazy monkey, where have you been all this time? I sent you long ago to find me another leopard to eat!”

While that tale is obviously make believe, the one Aubrey told about the tourist wandering around at night in the bush away from camp was both real and ridiculous. Aubrey asked him what he was doing and the response was, “Trying to get reception on this satellite phone.”

Swimming with sharks, walking with baboons and now drinking with honey badgers. Cannot wait for the photos.

Great fable, Lynn, made me laugh...

You are right, in fact I have not read most of this thread before, apart from the reference to Goats do Roam. With regard to this wine I have previously been told it is very popular in USA, so presumably it must be freely available.

I have never heard a Puku whistle that I can recall, unless you count one being punctured by a Lion. This is probably as our previous visits to Zambia have been by and large devoid of any good sightings, unless you include Tsetse,(the one mandatory ascerbic comment)

I await your photos with interest, unfortunately here in SA, at least on my computer, I can never get to anything on Kodak Gallery.Could you put the best ones on Pbase or Zenfolio?

Leely, I must correct you on the swimming with sharks part. I did not swim with them and only viewed them from the boat. So I guess that would be boating with sharks.

Sniktawk, The best photos will appear in the report I will eventually put on safari talk so no photo site will be needed. The report will include no pictures of tsetses though.

But now I have a photographic challenge to undertake in the future. I never thought about getting a picture of a tsetse fly.

If Goats do Roam is readily available in the US, it means Goats do Swim. Or Goats do Get Exported.


- The drive between Mfuwe airport to Kakuli -
Shortly after entering the park, the trademark scenery of dry season South Luangwa appeared—sandy river beds with concave banks, trees and root systems left dangling, testament to the force of the Luangwa’s rushing water during the rains. I came because I was missing pukus, but I realized that I had been missing this classic landscape as well.

The difference in the quantity of animals between the region near Mfuwe and further north near Kakuli was pronounced. Maybe I was traveling earlier in the season this time, when Mfuwe would be expected to have more activity than Nsefu. It was not just my observation, the family I shared the vehicle with had just come from Kapani, close to Mfuwe, and they also remarked on the disparity in the sightings of grazing game.

On the two 2-hour drives between the Mfuwe airport and Kakuli, I saw about four herds of elephant, a couple of journeys of 10+ Thorncroft Giraffe, one huge buffalo herd, numerous zebra herds, some kudu, lots of puku and impala, a few wart hogs, hippos and crocs in the river. There was never more than a 3-minute lull without at least antelope, until we were about an hour and a half into our drive, where we went for stretches without animals.

I am not complaining because my goal was to meet up with Aubrey and to see puku, which I did. I also saw no pride of 9 lions (or even 3 lionesses not hunting 2 buffalo) on my airport runs, as I did from Kakuli. Nor did I see a couple of hunting leopards, or half a dozen hyena, or a honey badger as I had on the drive from Kakuli. But the difference in the number of hoofed species was significant enough to mention.

If a trip is designed with some time to concentrate on walking in the more northern areas and the more remote Nsefu sector and some drive time in the Mfuwe sector (where we certainly did encounter more vehicles) then that is ideal. That’s how Kakuli is set up—you can walk between it and several other camps on a walking safari. Then there’s Kapani in Mfuwe (which also has walking options) for the start or end of the itinerary. The terrain with more animals could be reached after a 25-30 minute leisurely drive south from Kakuli. All of these observations are based my short 2-night stay.

The most unusual sighting on the airport transfer was a pregnant wart hog, who was so close to giving birth that she stumbled as she walked. I wondered if predators noticed the stumbling wart hog, like I did.

Moses drove me to Mfuwe Airport to catch my flight to North Luangwa. Shortly before we left the park, he pointed out a lovely Crested Barbet, Aubrey’s favorite bird and my last memory of visiting Aubrey on his home turf in South Luangwa.

Quote of the trip On the way to that morning flight out of South Luangwa, we did not have a lot of time for game driving. But since I had come to Zambia because I was missing puku, I asked to stop for puku photos at almost every opportunity and Moses obliged. When we transitioned from the park’s dirt road to the paved road that led to the airport, Moses remarked, “We are out of puku.”

~N. Luangwa is next~

At least you didn't hear that said in the dining area!

Bring it on.

p.s. "Swimming with sharks" was poetic license. I know you were respecting your sacred marriage vows when you declined to submerge.

I was happy to read about your walk with baboons as there is not that much information available. Looking forward to my turn.

"I know you were respecting your sacred marriage vows when you declined to submerge." Funny one, Leely.

Moremiles, Your comment about puku for dinner brings an interesting aspect about them. Unlike the more skittish impala, puku are more relaxed. I was told one reason for that is because they are not that good to eat and not preyed on as much.

When is it your turn for the baboons, Femi?

Kutandala in North Luangwa I brought a bottle of Amarula that was given to me, compliments of The Fallows, because I booked several shark trips.

My first night in camp we drank a toast to the only guest in the whole 4500+ square kilometer North Luangwa Park—me! On Night #2 we toasted the Cape Clawless Otter we had seen in the river and on Night #3 we toasted the arrival of our two new guests. On Night #4 they tried to get me to toast the buffalo herd that had grazed across the river from camp, but after three nights of this raucous, wanton frenzy of toasting, I declined, breaking the tradition.

Here’s why Kutandala is my favorite:

* The owners and operators (husband/wife team of Rod and Guz) are uniquely qualified and skilled to fill the niche for a remote bush camp like this. They are wonderful as hosts, and at the top of their game in their respective roles as guide and chef, plus everything else that running a camp entails.

* The chalets are works of art with a nice hot water bucket shower! They are beautifully decorated with natural materials. The floor is hardened ground and the bathroom is sand. Thatched mats were added to the bathroom sand floor since my last visit.

The front of the chalet juts out in a semi-circle toward the river where you can sun yourself. Even at night you have unobstructed views of the stars because there is a clever use of rolled mat-like blinds to secure you safely while you sleep, with open skyward views.

The little swinging doors for morning coffee/tea and for the hot water pitcher are downright cute in addition to being functional. Pictures of all this cuteness and functionality will appear at the end of the report.

* It is a temporary camp that is built with local materials from outside the park each season, which provides a lot of jobs. Care is taken not to use things like nails that could be left behind and injure the animals.

The ratio of two months construction time for about five month’s use of this beautiful structure makes me appreciate it all the more for its lack of permanence. I am reminded of the Tibetan Sand Mandala that is meticulously and artistically created by Buddhist Monks, only to be returned to a pile of sand when it is done.

* In contrast to the temporary nature of the shelter, Rod and Guz and their growing family offer a constant, stable, responsible presence. Their mature and personal commitment to their operation is evident.

It is heartwarming to see their adorable boys romping around (little sister is way too young yet). The romping with guests was limited to greeting me upon arrival, a breakfast-time good morning in their matching jammies, and a short presence during one teatime; it’s not like the guest chalets are their playground or they come terrorizing at tea.

* The dining areas, bar, and library, are smartly designed to fit in with the existing trees and natural contours of the environment.

* You take off your shoes and socks to cross the very shallow, slow flowing Mwaleshi River for your arrival in camp. Going for a paddle it is called. How cool is that? It really sets the tone of the whole camp and its activities.

* There is no unnatural noise, just sounds of nature, day and night, with hyenas dominating the night and a little lion roaring thrown in.

* The setting on the river is beautiful and peaceful, whether viewed from your chalet or from the lounge chairs under the umbrellas along the shore. Often the view included animals such as impala, puku, kudu, a herd of buffalo, or elephants.

* The staff is great and many of them have been there for years. They remembered me from five years ago.

* The odds of meeting like-minded visitors is high. Kutandala attracts a certain type.

* And I haven’t even mentioned Guz’s wonderful cuisine.

Aw, Lynn, you are killing me with all these things I need to add to my Africa wishlist! I'm enjoying your report so much.

"We are out of puku" would be the perfect way to wrap up a trip report or journal, I think.

Can't wait to see some photos... but your writing is so funny and evocative, I already feel like I've seen some!

And, yes indeed, Goats do Get Exported. I picked up a bottle here in California last weekend for a BBQ, in honor of you and your wine list. But my friends managed to drink it all up before I could try it out!

MyDogKyle,

Thank you for the nice comments and we have similar tastes in endings. Speaking of tastes, food is up next.


-Guz’s Wonderful Cuisine- The two British ladies who joined me at Kutandala were anticipating the fine dining even before arriving because they had been reading the guide books, where Guz’s reputation precedes her.

We had tremendous cuisine from around the world, including Mexican Nachos and Refried Beans, Indian Pau Bhaji with Apple Chutney, Greek Dolmas (grape leaves out here?), and Italian Tortellini. When I asked Rod for his favorite, he thought it would have to be Tortellini. I must say those little cheese filled pasta pillows may have been the best I’ve ever eaten.

Many of our dishes were en croute. Having battled phyllo dough with a pastry brush in my own kitchen, I appreciated the effort that went into creating anything en croute in the remote wilderness.

We had fresh mint leaves on our guava mousse. One night dessert was warm lemon pudding that contrasted with the ice cream served in a lovely frozen bowl made only of ice. Even the lunch that Rod carried for six hours in his backpack on our journey to the falls was delightful with the Cob Cole Slaw in Piquant Dressing remaining crisp and fresh.

We did all burst into laughter when the Watermelon Granita in a Brandy Snap was served at the end of one meal. There was nothing funny about the dessert, however we had found a watermelon on our walk that morning and had destroyed the invasive species, but not before our tracker and I could have a few nibbles. Guz pleaded not guilty to planting watermelons in the park.

Most of our evening meals we were serenaded by hyenas, which enhanced the wonderful flavors on our plates—a multi-sensory experience.

I was enjoying the food so much that found I had to pull a half-Skimmer. That sounds like a move that would have been executed by one of the highflying gymnasts or divers at the recent Olympics.

But it refers to Skimmer’s self-reported practice of declining the pastry at tea as well as the nightly dessert. I was not about to give them both up; instead I alternated between foregoing one or the other. Hence the half in my half-Skimmer maneuver.

If someone had no real interest in Africa and detested walking and didn’t care about seeing wildlife, I’d still recommend a stay at Kutandala if they sought out exceptional cuisine served in a unique and beautiful setting by gracious and entertaining hosts.

-Animals seen on the hour drive to/from the air strip-
* Cookson’s Wildebeest
* Buffalo herd
* Marabou stork
* Martial Eagle on the ground
* Several Zebra, a couple of waterbuck, many impala, wart hogs, an ele or two, but not a single puku to or from the airport. Fortunately the puku were there to greet me at camp.

-July Water Bird Count- I arrived at Kutandala midday on July 31, just in time for the month-end water bird census meaning we had a mission for our first afternoon outing. We walked to all the nearby pans and waterholes to accomplish the mission. In addition to finding water birds, such as a nursery full of baby Saddle Billed Storks and a flock of 53 Egyptian Geese, we located about 5 terrapins and numerous crocs.

'ice cream served in a lovely frozen bowl made only of ice'

If people only knew the battle to keep food fresh, cold beer, and make ice in the bush. When I stopped in at Kutandala several years ago, his setup was superior to the other camps at the time.

Lynn,

You got a great sense of humour. But would "a skimmer light" not be a better name?

By the way, curious to see how Duba is gonna be without the boys...

Greetz,

Johan

Lynn, your problem with the puku call sounds more like confusion than stupidity. I whistling antelope must be stupid though.

Luangwablondes,
That quality setup may have started out as a mistake that turned out for the best. If I understood correctly, they have a freezer that runs on jet fuel.

Rod brought it back to Kutandala after a shopping run in civilization. The only problem was that he was supposed to bring back a refrigerator, not a freezer. Oops. They must have gotten the new fridge too because at the time of my visit they had a nice fridge, the fancy freezer, and maybe even a spare freezer.

The ice cream bowl was a work of art with little lemon slices and garnishes suspended in the ice. People should really bring their cameras to every meal at Kutandala and not just for puku shots.

I can only imagine the difficulty of keeping food cold, not to mention the other culinary miracles performed by Guz, and that go on at camps in remote places all over Africa.

It was nice to learn that the current cook that is working with Guz is the former nanny to the boys. Even nicer is that the nanny to their little girl is the cook's (1st nanny's) brother. Hope that makes sense.

Skimmer,
If I were to go with "Skimmer Light" as the term for my practice of skipping EITHER dessert OR the pastry at tea, I fear it might be a misnomer. In fact I am eating MORE than you because you skip BOTH the tea pastry AND the dessert. I would be practicing Skimmer Heavy in that case. You, on the other hand, routinely practice Skimmer Light on your safaris, which is impressive.

I too will be most interested in your Duba experience and I don't mean what you decide to eat or skip at tea or dessert.

I'll also like to read your comments on the mobile. Do you leave soon? It is almost Sept.

Nyamera
You are right. Perhaps I was only confused and not stupid. And sometimes I get confused about my stupidity. But usually I recover without much damage. Only rarely do things deteriorate into a "Lucy episode" for me which is an American pop cultural reference that may mean nothing to you, mostly due to your youth.

-Visiting Chipopma Falls (Mwaleshi Falls)-
This is an all day trip (6:30 am to 6:30 pm) and is usually undertaken with a 4 or 5 night stay only. We drove a couple of hours and Rod took a route along the rhino fence that encloses about 24 black rhino so I could get a feel for the immense size of this enclosure. Rarely are rhino seen. Eventually the fence will come down.

After the drive, the walk begins. We visited a hippo pool and climbed through wooded slopes. We saw a few impala and numerous elephant shrew paths of cleared circular landing pads for the elephant shrews to hop silently through leafy underbrush at night. But wildlife viewing was not the main goal of this hike to the picturesque falls.

However no one told that to the Cape Clawless Otter! Rod was taking photos of Big John and me in the river when he noticed it. We watched it along the shore in dense vegetation. We saw it swim, fish, catch a crab or fish, eat the crab or fish, and even zip toward us for a better look.

We were entertained for 30 minutes and Rod kept snapping shots with one camera and I pulled out the other, though conditions were poor for photography. This Cape Clawless Otter was one of only four Rod had ever seen in the Luangwa Valley. Wow!

En route to the falls was a sacred Sausage Tree, marked with white ribbons tied to the branches. All the local people in the area honored this tree because their chief was laid to rest in it.

Periodically, groups would make a two to three day pilgrimage from their homes to the tree and leave an offering. Tracker Big John’s local custom was to leave maize flour in the hollow of the tree, so he had a sack full in his backpack. (The offering or ritual at the tree differs from village to village.)

I was honored to be allowed to deposit the first handful of flour into the tree hollow, and noticed the small pile of flour already there. Then John left his own flour offering.

When we approached the pools just below the falls, Rod told me to quietly inch up the hill and check out the huge crocs before they slipped into the water. The water is so clear that entire bodies of the hippos are visible under water.

We proceeded to the falls where Rod began preparing lunch and Big John took me on a walk on the boulders around which the water tumbled. There were a few spots that formed pools where you could even swim in the cold water. Rather than swim, I zipped off my pant legs and did some refreshing wading, along with some reading and napping in the shade of this gorgeous, pristine setting.

About 3:00 pm after the heat of the day had passed, we walked a few hours back down to the vehicle and drove back to camp and toasted the Cape Clawless Otter. It was a wonderful first full day at Kutandala.

Suggestion that can be ignored by the manly men (and women) but may come in handy to others: On the walk to Chipopma Falls we crossed the Mwaleshi in some rocky spots, unlike all the other sandy crossings. If the bottoms of your feet are tender, you may want some flip flops. The rocks were not sharp and they were not slippery so there is not a danger of slipping and falling into the water with your camera, but they were hard.

- Other guests at Kutandala- Two British women joined me and we spent three enjoyable days together. It was Adrian’s first stop on her first trip to Africa, highly unusual for Kutandala. It was fun to see Adrian’s reactions to everything as we walked in the bush, such as, “It smells like someone is cooking, maybe potatoes.” Bingo, she had detected the potato bush!

Sue was Adrian’s more experienced Africa travel partner. She was the matron of a boys’ boarding school. If I were a casting director and looking for a matron of a boys’ boarding school, I’d choose Sue for the role.

Her take-charge style and decisiveness extended right down to her wardrobe. One morning she commented to me on her shirt. She liked the material but added, “I hate pockets and this shirt had pockets so I just ripped them out.” The result: Sue strode through the bush in a shirt with a set of box-shaped stitch marks on her chest that looked rectangular mammary glands. But her shirt had been rendered satisfactory, so with her safari-themed socks of the day, Sue was in high spirits and ready to roll for each walk. You go, girl!

Not that I should comment on fashion. One of my shirts that had a lovely intact pocket was from the giveaway table in my building’s laundry room. It ended up being given away again at Kutandala. Both ladies were good walking partners in the bush and were good fun back in camp, which supercedes pockets or lack thereof.

Lynn, I haven’t seen any Lucy episodes (and you have probably only seen re-runs) but I think the main character became popular because of her stupidity and/or confusion. That never happens in real life.

I thought Cape clawless otters were animals that only existed in wildlife books! They are on lists over animals in the Mara, but I don’t think anyone has ever seen them.

Flour depositing sounds like a civilized religious practise that doesn’t mess with anyone’s sunglasses. Had the dead body been placed in the tree hollow?

I'm chuckling about the sunglasses.

The body is placed up in the tree, I believe. The chief had passed away a long time ago so nothing remained when I was there.

You know all about Lucy even without the show.

Lynn,

I'll read your continued report after I get back home in about 10 days from now.

But just wanted to say, "Goats can fly" and goats do fly ......

I think they'd like to get into NY Harbour and get the salute from the statue of liberty and take to the tables of America's wine bars ........

Cheers
Hari

Your fellow safari-ers sound very nice but not as nice as this clawless otter.

-Burnt Grass- There were several instances when grass, burnt months earlier in a controlled burn, proved to be significant.

On our second day, we came across a herd of five zebra, grazing in the burnt areas. Rod mentioned a theory that hypothesized zebras come in shortly after a burn to graze specifically on the charred vegetation. We watched them through our binocs and observed that their heads were not down far enough for them to be eating the burnt grasses. So the theory remains just that.

That same theory applies to the Lesser Black Winged Plover, that we saw hopping around the blackened grass. He was definitely enjoying the recent burn and it was the first time in four years that Rod had seen that little bird and the first time I ever saw it. I almost didn’t see it because it was so well camouflaged.

Burning grass (current tense because some areas were still smoldering and igniting into small flames) was the source of a wild goose chase or more appropriately a wild vulture chase on our last day.

We spotted a variety of vultures circling and landing and followed them to find the quintessential African scene of a dead tree laden with vultures. So many different vultures was an indication of a food source for them, perhaps a lion kill. We carefully surveyed the charred area, which sent the vultures flying.

Although we found no carcass or predators, we saw wisps of red flames right under the dead tree where all the vultures had sat. Tracker John stated, “The vultures came to the fire because they have learned when poachers light a fire to dry meat, there are scraps.” He went on to explain that when he is part of a military patrol, their campfires often lure vultures, for the same reason—the birds had been conditioned to associate food with fire.

We would have preferred to have the vultures lead us to something other than a bonfire and we would have preferred that the vultures’ behavior not be conditioned by poachers. But we were impressed with Big John’s interpretation of the behavior.

Finally, because burnt grass had played a role in our safari, I wanted to get a few photos of bright green shoots sprouting though charred vegetation. This mission was most amusing to my two safari-mates and they enjoyed pointing out to me the myriad of potential subjects that surrounded us. “Here’s grass, over here! There’s some grass. Oh look, grass. I found you some grass. Grass! Grass!”

-My sightings, both visual and audio- They may have spotted grass, but I can boast the only wart hog sighting of our walks. Not one but three of them, angled attractively up the slant of a hill!

I followed up my wart hog sighting with an “audio spot” that night around the campfire when I heard something moving in the river. It was an elephant.

That was not my only “audio spot.” The first afternoon in camp when I was returning to my chalet, I could hear something in the bushes. After I got inside, the noise grew louder and from my open-sky, ensuite bathroom I could see the bushes behind my chalet moving. I figured it was an elephant but I couldn’t see for sure until I stood on my toilet (lid down to prevent going for an unwanted paddle) and enjoyed some nice game viewing.

That night I was awakened with a start right after falling asleep. I could hear the chewing, slurping, lip smacking and digesting and did not need to hop on my toilet to confirm it was an elephant grazing on the trees overhanging my chalet. The whole place shook, which was unsettling at first but it soon took on a comforting cradle rocking effect and the next thing I knew it was morning.

The ele greeted Sue on her first night in the same manner, at about the same time. Guz said when the camp was empty of guests, he grazed near their home. Assuming this is the same elephant, how social of him--or how territorial.

I'm caught up on SA. Now I wish I'd done the baboon walk. Like your dining partner description.

-Other elephant action -
* Unlike 5 years ago when we saw only 2 elephants in 4 days and they ran in terror after detecting our scent, we saw about 30 this time with sightings on just about every outing. Watching elephants, whether lone males bathing in mud or small families feeding, was a highlight of our walks.

* A couple of elephants joined us for lunch at a respectable distance and provided a nice backdrop for photos of the staff that I’ll eventually mail.

* One big elephant crossed the river right in front of my chalet and I have pictures of him next to the riverside shade umbrellas.

-Most elusive sighting of the trip award- And the winner is Big John, the Tracker!

He spotted a monitor lizard entwined in the high branches of a tree and spent several minutes patiently showing of us where it was. Despite its large size, if we blinked we lost the thing. It was still there the next day.

-Pukus I no longer was missing- We saw them on most walks. They were sometimes hanging with their waterbuck cousins, other times they mixed with impala, but mostly they liked their own company. On one walk we were herding them as we took a circuitous route. They grazed in the open across from camp, often crossing the river.

I caught one male by surprise mid-day and mid-river when I stepped out of the shower and strolled to the front of my chalet seeking warm sunshine. His dumbfounded stare lasted long enough for me to grab the camera and shoot. I’ll take that as a compliment.

It would have been funny if he had given the territorial whistle like I heard at Kakuli. At least he did not give the alarm call, which is what happened in a similar post-shower instance at Tena Tena. Obviously, the Kutandala pukus are more refined than the Robin Pope pukus.

During lunch on our fourth day, we were commenting on a trio of puku across the river at a distance. Ten minutes later, the puku were gone and a herd of about 200 buffalo had replaced them! How did that happen so quickly and so silently?

-Buffalo- The buffalo herd appeared to be getting their drinks and then heading back away from camp so we used the spotting scope near the lunch table to get some good views while it lasted. I followed my after-lunch ritual, which consisted of taking a shower and little nap, then reading. I was wakened from my nap by a bellow. The buffalo were moving right in front of camp across the river. What an exciting matinee! And I never got to my reading that day.

For our afternoon outing and the following morning we spent a lot of our time approaching the buffalo, watching them watch us, observing them run away for a short distance, and repeating until we became one with the herd.

Our mid-morning tea was taken on a ridge overlooking the herd. There was some interesting sparring and I enthusiastically pointed out mating. Then Rod corrected me that since it was two males, it wasn’t mating I was watching. Eventually the herd of a couple hundred quietly and quickly disappeared into thick brush. I am always impressed with that magic trick.

-The Civet Plug and the Zebra Tail Hairs- This looks like one of Aubrey’s African stories, but it is actually just two of the many cool things that we found on our walks.

Next to a midden of little round dung pellets was a dry grassy packet that looked like remnants of a woven basket. Rod explained that we were looking at a civet plug. The civet wants to be able to control where it deposits its feces and does not want to suddenly lose its load due to an unexpected fright.

So right after a visit to the midden, the first thing it eats is some fibrous vegetation that does not digest well. The First In First Out principle results in a plug to hold in the contents until a deliberate effort is made to excrete back at the midden.

Maybe there is a tale or at least a nursery rhyme here. “Civet plug” is the answer to the question, “How does your midden grow?”

Who knew I could go souvenir shopping while on the walk? Last time at Kutandala it was a lion hairball and this time it was the hairs of a zebra tail that became a prized souvenir of the trip. The tail hairs were the only sign of zebra, no bones or other clues. I gathered up enough hair for me and for a gift. Not that I am a stingy gift giver who wouldn’t purchase something, but I appreciate uniqueness and authenticity for people who already have everything.

I was a good citizen and declared the zebra tail hairs, along with one porcupine quill, at customs upon my return. These odd items required a group meeting of several customs agents, a show and tell of my quill and hairs, a few chuckles, and only a 5-minute delay on my part. So my zebra tail hairs are completely legal.

One minute I’m following Big John and Rod through elephant grass, admiring a civet plug, and walking with buffalo. The next minute I’m at the airstrip saying goodbye.

As the Sky Trails plane gained altitude, Pilot Edmund switched on the classical music for the headsets. The hippos became ants in the Luangwa River far below and I knew “we are out of puku.”

How sad that the vultures want their meat grilled! How nice to have a real elephant rocking your tent instead of some dead people! How unbearable to run out of pukus!

I think I underestimated the popularity of the braai in Southern Africa. Even the vultures partake.

My goal is to include a photo link by the end of Sept., including the never before witnessed wildlife interaction that will kick off the slide show.

I marvel how people with 4000+ pictures have an album put together 48 hours after arriving home. I took 1800 photos, half of which are obvious deletes and I just finished downloading.

If only the photo album was as easy to compile as my wine list.

Lucky for us the photo album is NOT as easy as your wine list! Take your time, we're (relatively) patient. Just try to get it posted before I leave for Uganda, okay?

Loved your report, as always!

I'm so glad you saw elephants on your walks. I would be pretty bummed out if I missed them. And I'm not going to say anything about civet plugs other than, How interesting!

Take your time with the photos (sorry, MDK); I've got a long winter ahead of me and will need some sunshine.

132 numbered photos

#1 is the photo I’ve been bragging about with the species interaction.
2-20 Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve
23-35 Baboons from Baboon Walks with Baboon Matters
36-54 Great White Sharks near Seal Island in False Bay
55-65 Kirstenbosch Gardens
66-86 African Penguins at Boulders Bay
87-108 South Luangwa
109-132 North Luangwa

http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=k8fpf01.bunvnt75&x=0&y=wcf76l&localeid=en_US

There are lots of penguins and quite a few puku in the above photos.

Accommodations—these are not the best photos but show several views of the places I stayed
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=k8fpf01.3rvrkcu9&x=0&y=fcrp16&localeid=en_US

The opening slide is magnificent! That was one helluva miraculous safari.

Now off to view your pics in (semi) earnest.

BEAUTIFUL pics Lynn! Picture #1 is incredible as is #64...so lifelike they look ceramic! Love the cub in the tree and all the puku pics.
Mahalo!

The cub in the tree is indeed gorgeus. I am surprised with how taken I am by the penguins, the puku and the beautiful baboons. The Cape of Good Hope looks so dramatic and exciting. And I can't believe you crossed that water. What if the clawless otter got you?

A great gallery. Another trip I am green with envy about. Thanks for sharing, Lynn!

Fabulous first shot! What a treat! All those on-foot shots and Mwaleshi environs got my blood pumping for the Luangwa experience. Soon now...

Loved that 1st photo...talk about being at the right place at the right time! I never believed in the "land shark" until now.

Thanks for all the photo comments and I'm glad you all agree that Photo #1 is something special.

You were very fortunate to spot the rarely seen puquin!!

The photos from the lodge websites in the N.Luangwa don't do justice for the sights and "feel" of the region. Your photos captured that special "feel". I need to start planning another trip there.

Pangolin shmangolin. How about that puquin?

The puquin was phenomenal. I'm (practically) speechless. How are you ever going to top that sighting -- EVER??

MyDogKyle,

You've given me a life long mission now. I must keep returning to Africa to top the puquin. Thanks to you and GreenDrake any future Africa trips will take on a whole new meaning.

Hi Lynn,

Your travel experiences are amazing....and your pictures...if only I could find the right words...you are truly great!

I am very inspired by your writings.

My husband, myself and our two young boys (10,8) are going to Cape Town in November 21-28....and reading your travelogue just made our trip alive.

Thank you for being so inspirational...look forward to reading more of your travels around the world.

FROGS

Lynn, I just can't wait to see what rare animal you might encounter in Uganda or Rwanda...

MyDogKyle,
The animal I'd like to see in Rwanda is a me with $500 and not $1000 gorilla permits in my pocket.

FROGS,
Aren't you a day brightner! How very kind of you. Is FROGS the acronym of your family members or do you have an affinity for amphibians?

Selwyn's suggestions on your other thread will have your kids and you worn out at the end of each exciting day in the Cape Town area.

Lynn, the puquin is lovely, but the land shark has me worried since I’ve been trying to avoid the sea not to get eaten. Though Leely is worse at worrying than I am. I don’t even think the otter has particularly sharp claws. Nice to see a Cape girdled lizard, but your seal outfit is even better. It looks like you met some really nice baboons on the walk and the penguins look like nice guys even though they spend so much time in the sea.

Hi Lynn,

great photos that show the diversity in your safari this year - penguins, sharks, baboons, puku and hippo. The lion cub in the tree was so cute.

The photos of Kirstenbosch bought back happy memories of an afternoon I spent there in 2004.

Thanks,

Pol

Thanks Treepol. Only an afternoon at Kirstenbosch? I would have expected a week based on the length of your itineraries!

Nyamera, maybe my husband should have forbidden the river crossings with the otter instead of no shark cage dives. I need to read the next day in your report, #16 I think. You'll be back again before I'm finished. And I have the fever at the police station to review as well.

WOW!!!! Your pictures left me breathless! What a great trip.

First and foremost great job with the editing-it left me wanting more, which is usually what I aim for with my audience (rather than their desperately seeking a way out), also great job with the captions, well worth the effort.

Your photos have made me really excited, although I don't leave until April, I'm praying the weather will be as great as it looks in your photos. After reading your report I'd planned to add on a visit to the great whites (no intentions of getting wet), your pics are even more convincing. And now, I'm going to have to find a way to squeeze in a visit to the penguins. Didn't really care about this till I saw your pics. Far better than my visit to see the fairy penguins in Australia.

Altogether I'll be spending just under 2 weeks in SA dividing my time between Grootbos and Kwandwe.

Lynn,

A very nice collection of pictures you've taken. Especially enjoyed the penguins and pukus of course.

Believe it or not but this time I also skipped breakfast.


Greetz,

Johan

Femi,
Squeezing in the penguins is easy if you are in Simons Town. Hope your weather is as good as mine was too. I was extremely lucky with the weather as it was the rainy winter time. In 9 days I had abouat 4.5 hours of rain. At least in April the showers won't be so cold. Have a great time.

Skimmer,
You're going to waste away on us. How can you focus--literally--without some nutrition for those early morning outings?

Thanks for a most entertaining report Lynn. Loved the wine list!

You have some really great shots amongst your photos - the pictures of the penguins, Simonstown and South Luangwa brought back many happy memories. The never-seen-before wildlife interaction was awesome !!!!

So, are you counting down for the next trip? Self drive through Namibia maybe?

cheers
Jude and Kaye

Great report

I won't be self driving through Nambia, Thembi. My observations from the passenger seat (on the "wrong" side of the car) in the Cape Town area confirmed that.

Anyone who lives in Namibia and spends time on or near roads, plus anyone who will visit Namibia without a private plane should thank me profusely for that decision.

Hi Lynn,

Lovely pics - and great variety. I actually have never seen a puku in real life .... very beautiful antelope. Also, the accomodations in the Luangwa look very nice and seem like the perfect camp atmosphere.

Rgds
Hari

PS: Unfortunately, I didn't see the Goat wine on my recent trip. Must have forgotten to look for it.