live_aloha

I received such great advice on this forum when I was planning my trip to Kenya last year, so I thought I would reach out to all of you once again.

Since I returned from my adventure last September, I've had this nagging desire to return to Africa (imagine that!).

One thing I know I want to do is a gorilla trek. Initially I was thinking I would go to Rwanda, but after reading Tockoloshe's trip report, I'm wondering if Uganda might be a better option?

I also want to see a variety of animals and birds, and learn more about the culture. I want to visit places that are off the beaten path. For example, my favorite place on the recent trip was Offbeat Mara Camp, located on the Olare Orok River in the Mara North Conservancy. I loved the remoteness and intimacy of this camp---6 tents, everyone meeting around the dinner table at night, but off on your own with an excellent Masaai guide during the day.

I don't think I can find any travel partners this time, so would need to go solo or hopefully join a group of like-minded travelers.

I can go pretty much anytime, but would prefer when it's warm.

Would love to see some of those African thunderstorms, but don't know when that occurs, or if it occurs relative to the warmer weather time period I prefer?

I considered OAT, but something about it just doesn't seem right.

Any suggestions on destinations, travel options, etc are much appreciated!

Jan
p.s. I changed my name on this forum from elizabeth j to live_aloha.

Leely2

How many days do you have? One of the reasons I ended up choosing Rwanda rather than Uganda for gorilla trekking was that it seemed I could do that rather quickly as an add-on to Kenya. Uganda looked as if it would take more time--time that unfortunately I didn't have.

Not very helpful, I know. But good luck with your planning! How lucky to go on safari again so soon.

live_aloha

Thanks, Leely!

I would probably have 10-12 days (not counting travel time)if I can financially swing it and I find someone special to take care of my dog.

From what I've read on this forum, it's best to spend 2 days gorilla trekking? Is that because it's so awesome or just in case you don't see any the first trek? How many days would one want to spend in the area otherwise?

I was kind of thinking I'd go to Tanzania--primarily because I've been to Kenya twice. But if there were places I'd not yet seen in Kenya that others would recommend, then back to Kenya would be fine. I'd like to increase my chances of seeing a couple of animals I didn't see on this last trip (rhino, leopard)as well as more birds.

cary999

"...like to increase my chances of seeing a couple of animals I didn't see on this last trip (rhino, leopard)..."
Then you need to go where they are. South Africa.

regards - tom

sandi

In Kenya, for rhino, you can be assured of seeing these at Meru, Lewa and Ol Pejeta.

Leopard are always elusive, but can be found most anywhere with luck and patience. Some visits I've seen them, on others not...

Leely2

I would also check flight schedules to and from Entebbe vs. Kigali. It was very easy to get to Kigali from Nairobi. I think it's pretty simple--though slightly less so--from Dar; might be more difficult from JRO. Although I remember reading that some airline (KL? KQ? I think a SkyTeam member) was adding a flight to Entebbe from one of the major European airports. That might make Uganda easier than previously.

Anyway, with just 10 or 12 days I wouldn't think about Southern Africa if you want to gorilla trek.

Anstartravel

Talking of culture,i suggest the Maasai mara where by you will learn more about the Maasai and learn loits of birds, perhaps you may also prefer learning more about the samburu culture and you will be amazed of their different beliefs, For a gorilla trek, i would prefer Uganda and of which you aint going to spend more.

live_aloha

Thanks for your comments and suggestions everyone.

Tom-a visit to South Africa is on my future travel list, but not this time. And, as Leely mentioned, probably not the the best option if I want to include a gorilla trek.

Leely-good info to take into consideration with the planning phase--appreciate it.

Sandi-I've just started reading some trip reports that include Meru and Lewa, which sound like areas I would love to visit. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't Sweetwater's in Ol Pejeta? I stayed 2 nights there last August and even though we got to see a cheetah chase in action (started after a warthog and opted for the mongoose along the way)it wasn't my favorite place. Maybe if we had gone there first instead of after Amboseli and Tortilas. Or was it the Maribou stork outside the dining room window watching us eat? I dunno....at the risk of sounding superficial, the gift shop was one of the best parts!

The rhino sanctuary was interesting, and so yes, I did see a rhino there, but never got to see one on a game drive.

Anstartravel-I had the pleasure of spending 4 days in the Mara last August (and loved every minute of it). Second visit, so while I could go back in a heartbeat, think I need to see other areas.

Is there any particular reason you would recommend Uganda over Rwanda?

sandi

It might have been the stay at Sweetwater's, especially if after Tortilis at Amboseli. A nicer choice and also somewhat more expensive, for a true bush camp (rustic) would be Ol Pejeta Bush Camp, right smack in the middle of Ol Pejeta. Hosts are outstanding and you get to learn about all the other activities/projects on this concervancy.

Maribou stork watching me eat would also be weird, wondering if it wasn't thinking of me as it's next meal!

atravelynn

Recommend Uganda over Rwanda?

Uganda is what you want if you were interested in places like Queen Elizabeth where a highlight attraction is a boat launch on the Kazinga Channel. Probably more non-stop action, especially birds, on this stretch than any water trip, or any outing.

Uganda is what you want if the vast and beautiful Murchison Falls and a trip on the Nile, with nice wildlife too, is something you'd like. At the entrance to Murch Falls is Kaniyo Pabadi in the Budongo Forest Reserve where you can track chimps.

Also for chimps...
Kibale in Uganda is one of the best places. Ngamba, a Jane Goodall Sanctuary on an island off of Entebbe allows for closer encounters with young chimps, and even volunteer opportunities.

But Rwanda has Nyungwe with huge troops of Angolan Colobus, plus numerous other primates such as Gray Cheeked Mangabeys, Mountain Monkeys, and chimps too. You can add Golden Monkeys before or after the gorillas in Rwanda, since the species occupy the same park.

The gorilla viewing experience in Rwanda has been better for me than Uganda. Less concealing vegetation, not so hot, slightly more relaxed animals. But every gorilla visit is very special.

Personally I love both places. The last time I was presented a choice between the two and said yes please and did both.

live_aloha

Thanks for your responses!

Sandi--Wish I had known about Ol Pejeta Bush Camp---sounds like my kind of place.

atravelyn---wow, decisions, decisions--sounds like I can't go wrong with either choice.

BTW, YOUR trip report is the one I just started reading and am thoroughly enjoying it--so well written! Makes me wish I was as adventurous as you are.

twaffle

I would put a vote in for Lewa (naturally) and have always seen many, many wild rhinos both black and white. I did see some black rhinos at Ol Pejeta, but not at photographic distance and although it was a pleasant place to visit I didn't get the same wild feel as Lewa. And Lewa didn't give the same wild feel as Meru. Have seen leopards on all three trips to Lewa, although I know people who have never seen leopard there. But for rhino I would look no further than Lewa.

Can't comment on gorilla trekking but would bow to Atravelynn's experience and good sense.

live_aloha

Appreciate your comments, Twaffle.

It's great to hear from all of you. I have lots of questions about Lewa and Meru now, but will do some more reading on this forum over the weekend and then tap into your kindness and experience for more info after I learn more.

Thanks again for your responses so far!

atravelynn

Just one comment on Lewa & Meru. They are quite different and if possible would compliment each other nicely. Not an either-or situation, unless time does not permit both.

caribbeanbery

I am amused and overwhelmed to see how you guys are just crazy for adventure,i have not experienced gorilla trekking ,but according to my research Rwanda is the best ,and my tue experience is about Meru and Lewa conservancy a home to Black and White Rhino.i love venturing nature and may be my next will be the Trekking.
Wish you nice planning aloha
anberry

live_aloha

atravelyn---you must've been reading my mind! I was wondering if they were similar and if it should be an either/or vs trying to do both. I plan to spend more time reading this weekend (after I recover from the up-all-night tsunami scare)and then be better equipped to ask questions.

Also want to finish your trip report, but wanted to dedicate the proper amount of time to really read it for enjoyment vs just skimming to gather information.

caribbeanbery--isn't nature and adventure wonderful? I'm fortunate to be surrounded by nature---just need to remind myself to get out and be more adventurous!! I think that is one of the major attractions of travel in general and Africa in particular....

atravelynn

Live Aloha,
Some tense times for you I am sure as this tragedy has unfolded.

As for some Lewa and Meru differences that I observed...

Lewa has much more visible wildlife, especially predators, than Meru, though not common sightings of the Lesser Kudu. Don't know if there even are any Lesser Kudu in Lewa. Regardless, that's not typically a deciding factor.

I never saw a gerenuk (antelope that stand on hind legs to browse) in Lewa, although they are present, but did see a couple gerenuk in Meru. Samburu is the place for these guys, anyway.

While Meru does have a rhino sanctuary, which I did not go to, Lewa is probably the best place in Africa to see both black and white rhino roaming freely. It's likely you'll see several of each in a stay.

Lewa is a private fenced concession at 60,000+ acres (which is huge) and Meru is not fenced. I did encounter a single electric wire fence at times in Lewa. The high concentration of endangered rhino is a big reason for the fence. There are 24-hour-a-day guards protecting some of the rhino. I never felt the containment features detracted from my stay and we drove for miles without any artificial barriers.

Lewa has all sorts of other activities. Horseback riding; camel safari (the best day-long camel safari I've done); meaningful village visits, or stays; walks; hides/blinds overlooking waterholes where I had the best view ever of the elusive acquatic antelope the sitagunga. In Meru, you can visit the famed lion Elsa's grave or cheetah Pippa's grave; there is a picturesque hippo pool with wooden walkways; and a rhino sanctuary.

Tse tses can be a problem in Meru on the drives. They were absent at Kinnas Bandas and guests who have stayed at Elsa's said they were not at that camp.

If staying in a banda in Meru, the cost is far less than Lewa. Lewa has lusher landscape and more rolling hills.