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need some info for trip to Madagascar

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I will be in Madagascar Sept, 08. I want to do some whale watching, , see some of the preserves, visit markets for local handicrafts, and probably take the train in Fianarantsoa. I will be with another woman and we will only have 11 days. No tour.
Besides flying, which we will have to do some, what are the best ways to get around. I know the roads are bad, but what is the local transportation like? Is in necessaary to hire a car and driver for some of the areas? Need lots of information. First time to Madagascar, but I have been through Irian Jira , Laos and other places without tours. We can take i-2 day tours if there are some that would work.

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