Namibia self-drive trip report
Nov 26th, 2006, 11:09 AM
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Namibia self-drive trip report
We recently got back from a one-week selfdrive in Namibia. Me, my wife and friends of ours with their 14-month old daughter Lisa went in a VW
Caravelle (8-seat bus, 2WD). The route was Windhoek-Omaruru-Damaraland-Swakopmund-Sossusvlei-Windhoek, about 2000 km mostly gravel road. We
used Cardboard Box to help us with the itinerary and lodge selection and were very happy with them.
All of us, except for Lisa maybe, loved Namibia and found it to be a very beautiful country. It's easy to travel independently and self-drive
is the way to go if you ask me. True, the distances are long, but the landscape is very scenic, and the roads are generally in very good
condition. If you don't drive at least part of the way, you won't see Namibia. Namibia is about vastness, and that is best experienced when
traveling by car.
The first place we stayed at was the Erongo Wilderness Lodge, which was a fantastic place in a wonderful setting. Huge funny-shaped rocks,
boulders and vast plains. The lodge consists of about 10 luxury permanent tents with beautiful bathrooms. The pool was a highlight. After
relaxing by the pool we went on a sundowner walk, which was a light climb up a hill where you have a magnificent view of the surrounding
mountains and plains. The next morning two of us went on a nature hike, which lasted about 2½ hours. Our guide was knowledgable and friendly.
I can highly recommend doing that hike, to get an understanding of the geology and biology of the place.
We only stayed one night at Erongo (one more night would have been great) so we left late morning after a good breakfast, heading to Palmwag
in Damaraland. Rather than going the larger tar roads we decided to zig-zag our way to Palmwag on gravel roads, to better see the landscape. I
think it was a very good choice, but we were a bit unlucky as we changed drivers to our least experienced driver just before we crossed a
dried-up river bed with some loose sand. We got stuck. Not badly, but we couldn't move forward. We put the car in reverse and started pushing,
and after just a minute people started emerging from the trees on the river bank. With a few more hands it was no problem to get out of the
loose sand and back up far enough to be able to pick up enough speed before going through the difficult area again.
It was very interesting how this seemingly desolate place actually was inhabited, and all along the road to Palmwag we saw a few people here
and there. It was very beautiful and if you're the least adventurous, go gravel. The 14-month old girl we brought along weren't as excited
about the landscape as the rest of us, but she mostly put up with the driving and the road conditions. It was only when we crossed riverbeds
at speed that she protested.
In Damaraland we stayed at the Palwag Lodge, selected as it's in a reserve where there is black rhino. We stayed two nights and did a full day
safari with guide (about NAD 800/person). Damaraland is very beautiful, and you shouldn't miss a 4WD safari. It was a bumpy ride, since we
drove on tracks, but that was part of the attraction. We met other cars at a waterhole and a river canyon, but apart from that we were alone
all day. We saw 2 black rhino, lots of oryx, a huge herd of springbok, elephants, a giraffe, zebras, ostriches, a jackal, a hyena and more.
It's amazing how they can live with so little water!
The Palmwag Lodge is good, but lacks the charm of the Erongo Wilderness Lodge. The food was very good though and each night you got to choose
from two appetizers and two main courses, both of which were excellent.
From Palmwag we drove westwards, to the Skeleton Coast. Palmwag is arid, no doubt about that, but it gradually got drier as we got closer to
the coast and about at the entrance of the park we decided that we had officially entered the desert. A while after passing the gates we
noticed that the car was a bit difficult to control, but didn't think much of it. When we stopped a few minutes later, for a photo session in
the black and yellow desert (two types of sand mixing with each other, really cool!) we noticed we had a flat tyre. Neither of us was
experienced in changing tyres, and the spare was really difficult to release from its place (I would suggest that you check that before
heading out in the desert if you're renting a car, we didn't). Anyway, during the 45 minutes it tooks us to change it, two cars passed us. We
decided not to stop them as we felt things were more or less under control. We did drive a bit more carefully after that, as one more flat
would have been difficult to fix.
The road down along the Skeleton Coast is scenic, in a strange way. It's just desert for kilometer after kilometer, but it's really awesome.
The sand changes color from white to red, to yellow, to yellow-and-black and back to white again. We stopped at one of the few places where
you're actually allowed to leave the road and drive up on top of the dunes on the ocean-side of the road. We were happy to find a shipwreck
there and went down to the beach to explore it. Imagine being shipwrecked here, feeling lucky because you survived and was able to get to the
shore, only to find yourself in a desert with no water and no food. We had lunch on top of the dunes, watching the wreck and thinking about
the less fortunate people who arrived to this spot not in a car, but on a ship.
The drive from Palmwag to Swakopmund was long, but no problem to do in a day as long as you start fairly early. The road was very good and we
drove at 80-100 km/h most of the time. We had time enough to stop for seal viewing and a cup of coffee at Cape Cross.
Swakopmund may not be the most interesting place in the world, but it does have a charm of sorts. Lots of people of German descent live there,
and we went to the Brauhaus restaurant for beer, pork and sauerkraut! The attraction of Swakopmund is the activities you can do there. We
decided we wanted to do downhill dune skiing. The Sophia Dale Restcamp organizes skiing down the dunes, using regular slalom skis
(www.sophiadale.com). You strap on the boots and put the skiis on your shoulder, then you have to climb the dune, which takes 10 minutes (no
lifts, sorry). The view from the top is great and when you've caught your breath you go downhill. It's the same technique as skiing in snow,
but if you make too wide turns you lose speed immediately. Lots of fun!
After skiing we headed towards Sossusvlei, passing through some very scenic landscape (again!). We made a stop at Solitaire, which is an odd
place with a Wild West feel to it. A gas station, a run-down café and a very nice lodge (with a swimming pool) in the middle of the nowhere.
It wasn't until seven that we reached our destination, the Kulala Desert Lodge, which was the most beautiful of the places we stayed at in
Namibia. It was also the most expensive one, but on the recommendation of Cardboard Box Travel we booked one night Dinner, Bed & Breakfast and
one night fully inclusive. This way we could participate in activities free of charge, but not pay the full price two nights. The rooms were
very beautiful, the views breathtaking, the food excellent and the staff was very helpful. Laundry is included when you're on the all-
inclusive rate by the way. Hand in as much as you wish, except for undies which they don't do.
The big attraction in this area is the dunes at Sossusvlei of course. We left early morning (without Lisa, one of the lodge employees babysat
her while we went to the dunes), but not super-early so there were a number of people there when we reached the dunes, which didn't really
matter in my opinion. We climbed Big Daddy, which is the tallest dune. It took more than one hour, but it was well worth it. The views from
the top were magnificent. Perhaps the best part was running down the side of the dune, to Dead Vlei. It was so much fun running at full speed
- try it! Whatever you do, don't miss the dunes when in Namibia.
Unfortunately that was our last stop before heading back to Windhoek, to leave Namibia. We had a great time and really loved Namibia. We felt
that our route was good, although the leg from Palmwag to Windhoek was a bit long, especially when traveling with a 14-month girl. However, it
was really cool to experience the extreme nature along the Skeleton Coast and I wouldn't have wanted to miss it.
Caravelle (8-seat bus, 2WD). The route was Windhoek-Omaruru-Damaraland-Swakopmund-Sossusvlei-Windhoek, about 2000 km mostly gravel road. We
used Cardboard Box to help us with the itinerary and lodge selection and were very happy with them.
All of us, except for Lisa maybe, loved Namibia and found it to be a very beautiful country. It's easy to travel independently and self-drive
is the way to go if you ask me. True, the distances are long, but the landscape is very scenic, and the roads are generally in very good
condition. If you don't drive at least part of the way, you won't see Namibia. Namibia is about vastness, and that is best experienced when
traveling by car.
The first place we stayed at was the Erongo Wilderness Lodge, which was a fantastic place in a wonderful setting. Huge funny-shaped rocks,
boulders and vast plains. The lodge consists of about 10 luxury permanent tents with beautiful bathrooms. The pool was a highlight. After
relaxing by the pool we went on a sundowner walk, which was a light climb up a hill where you have a magnificent view of the surrounding
mountains and plains. The next morning two of us went on a nature hike, which lasted about 2½ hours. Our guide was knowledgable and friendly.
I can highly recommend doing that hike, to get an understanding of the geology and biology of the place.
We only stayed one night at Erongo (one more night would have been great) so we left late morning after a good breakfast, heading to Palmwag
in Damaraland. Rather than going the larger tar roads we decided to zig-zag our way to Palmwag on gravel roads, to better see the landscape. I
think it was a very good choice, but we were a bit unlucky as we changed drivers to our least experienced driver just before we crossed a
dried-up river bed with some loose sand. We got stuck. Not badly, but we couldn't move forward. We put the car in reverse and started pushing,
and after just a minute people started emerging from the trees on the river bank. With a few more hands it was no problem to get out of the
loose sand and back up far enough to be able to pick up enough speed before going through the difficult area again.
It was very interesting how this seemingly desolate place actually was inhabited, and all along the road to Palmwag we saw a few people here
and there. It was very beautiful and if you're the least adventurous, go gravel. The 14-month old girl we brought along weren't as excited
about the landscape as the rest of us, but she mostly put up with the driving and the road conditions. It was only when we crossed riverbeds
at speed that she protested.
In Damaraland we stayed at the Palwag Lodge, selected as it's in a reserve where there is black rhino. We stayed two nights and did a full day
safari with guide (about NAD 800/person). Damaraland is very beautiful, and you shouldn't miss a 4WD safari. It was a bumpy ride, since we
drove on tracks, but that was part of the attraction. We met other cars at a waterhole and a river canyon, but apart from that we were alone
all day. We saw 2 black rhino, lots of oryx, a huge herd of springbok, elephants, a giraffe, zebras, ostriches, a jackal, a hyena and more.
It's amazing how they can live with so little water!
The Palmwag Lodge is good, but lacks the charm of the Erongo Wilderness Lodge. The food was very good though and each night you got to choose
from two appetizers and two main courses, both of which were excellent.
From Palmwag we drove westwards, to the Skeleton Coast. Palmwag is arid, no doubt about that, but it gradually got drier as we got closer to
the coast and about at the entrance of the park we decided that we had officially entered the desert. A while after passing the gates we
noticed that the car was a bit difficult to control, but didn't think much of it. When we stopped a few minutes later, for a photo session in
the black and yellow desert (two types of sand mixing with each other, really cool!) we noticed we had a flat tyre. Neither of us was
experienced in changing tyres, and the spare was really difficult to release from its place (I would suggest that you check that before
heading out in the desert if you're renting a car, we didn't). Anyway, during the 45 minutes it tooks us to change it, two cars passed us. We
decided not to stop them as we felt things were more or less under control. We did drive a bit more carefully after that, as one more flat
would have been difficult to fix.
The road down along the Skeleton Coast is scenic, in a strange way. It's just desert for kilometer after kilometer, but it's really awesome.
The sand changes color from white to red, to yellow, to yellow-and-black and back to white again. We stopped at one of the few places where
you're actually allowed to leave the road and drive up on top of the dunes on the ocean-side of the road. We were happy to find a shipwreck
there and went down to the beach to explore it. Imagine being shipwrecked here, feeling lucky because you survived and was able to get to the
shore, only to find yourself in a desert with no water and no food. We had lunch on top of the dunes, watching the wreck and thinking about
the less fortunate people who arrived to this spot not in a car, but on a ship.
The drive from Palmwag to Swakopmund was long, but no problem to do in a day as long as you start fairly early. The road was very good and we
drove at 80-100 km/h most of the time. We had time enough to stop for seal viewing and a cup of coffee at Cape Cross.
Swakopmund may not be the most interesting place in the world, but it does have a charm of sorts. Lots of people of German descent live there,
and we went to the Brauhaus restaurant for beer, pork and sauerkraut! The attraction of Swakopmund is the activities you can do there. We
decided we wanted to do downhill dune skiing. The Sophia Dale Restcamp organizes skiing down the dunes, using regular slalom skis
(www.sophiadale.com). You strap on the boots and put the skiis on your shoulder, then you have to climb the dune, which takes 10 minutes (no
lifts, sorry). The view from the top is great and when you've caught your breath you go downhill. It's the same technique as skiing in snow,
but if you make too wide turns you lose speed immediately. Lots of fun!
After skiing we headed towards Sossusvlei, passing through some very scenic landscape (again!). We made a stop at Solitaire, which is an odd
place with a Wild West feel to it. A gas station, a run-down café and a very nice lodge (with a swimming pool) in the middle of the nowhere.
It wasn't until seven that we reached our destination, the Kulala Desert Lodge, which was the most beautiful of the places we stayed at in
Namibia. It was also the most expensive one, but on the recommendation of Cardboard Box Travel we booked one night Dinner, Bed & Breakfast and
one night fully inclusive. This way we could participate in activities free of charge, but not pay the full price two nights. The rooms were
very beautiful, the views breathtaking, the food excellent and the staff was very helpful. Laundry is included when you're on the all-
inclusive rate by the way. Hand in as much as you wish, except for undies which they don't do.
The big attraction in this area is the dunes at Sossusvlei of course. We left early morning (without Lisa, one of the lodge employees babysat
her while we went to the dunes), but not super-early so there were a number of people there when we reached the dunes, which didn't really
matter in my opinion. We climbed Big Daddy, which is the tallest dune. It took more than one hour, but it was well worth it. The views from
the top were magnificent. Perhaps the best part was running down the side of the dune, to Dead Vlei. It was so much fun running at full speed
- try it! Whatever you do, don't miss the dunes when in Namibia.
Unfortunately that was our last stop before heading back to Windhoek, to leave Namibia. We had a great time and really loved Namibia. We felt
that our route was good, although the leg from Palmwag to Windhoek was a bit long, especially when traveling with a 14-month girl. However, it
was really cool to experience the extreme nature along the Skeleton Coast and I wouldn't have wanted to miss it.
Nov 26th, 2006, 12:36 PM
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Yes, we booked through Cardboard Box. They were very helpful from the start. I explained to them what we were interested in, our budget and time constraints, and they came back with a proposed itinerary. After a few iterations it was done.
We didn't go on a specific rhino tracking tour at Palmwag, but on a full-day safari with a 4X4. It was with Palmwag Lodge's vehicle and guide. You can find their different safaris on their website, and I think the one we went on was called Nature Drive. We didn't spend the day trying to find rhino, but happened to find them anyway. I guess there are quite a few (all is relative I guess) in the concession area.
We didn't go on a specific rhino tracking tour at Palmwag, but on a full-day safari with a 4X4. It was with Palmwag Lodge's vehicle and guide. You can find their different safaris on their website, and I think the one we went on was called Nature Drive. We didn't spend the day trying to find rhino, but happened to find them anyway. I guess there are quite a few (all is relative I guess) in the concession area.
Nov 27th, 2006, 08:19 AM
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Thanks for the great report, it brought back a lot of memories as we drove much of the same route in 2004. There really is nothing like running down the side of "Big Daddy".
As alluded to in the report anyone wishing to do a self drive be sure and request 2 full size spare tires. If you get a flat most small towns can repair or replace the tire so you can get back to 2 spares again along the way. I had mine repaired in the aforementioned Solitaire.
As alluded to in the report anyone wishing to do a self drive be sure and request 2 full size spare tires. If you get a flat most small towns can repair or replace the tire so you can get back to 2 spares again along the way. I had mine repaired in the aforementioned Solitaire.
Nov 27th, 2006, 04:13 PM
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Tordenmalm,
I am considering a Namibia trip and thought I'd like to spend 4 nights at Palmwag. Am I nuts? What are your thoughts on the pro's and con's of a 4-night stay there. FYI-It would be just me, unless I was able to join a group.
Anyone with input please feel free to respond as well.
I am considering a Namibia trip and thought I'd like to spend 4 nights at Palmwag. Am I nuts? What are your thoughts on the pro's and con's of a 4-night stay there. FYI-It would be just me, unless I was able to join a group.
Anyone with input please feel free to respond as well.
Nov 27th, 2006, 08:56 PM
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If you're concerned you're nuts you could do a couple of nights at the Rhino Camp, or move to Grootberg Lodge to get a similar range of activities in a similar area with different guides and a diffrent view? Just another line of thought to pursue in your planning... If you have been to the area before you are probbably well ahead of me on that! I'm only at the planning stage..
I think we're going for two nights at either Palmwag or Grootberg doing rhino and/or elephant tracking and then 3 nights at Hobatere a bit further north for slightly less arid game viewing. There are so many nice looking lodges in that area I couldn't bring myself to stay too long in any one.....
I think we're going for two nights at either Palmwag or Grootberg doing rhino and/or elephant tracking and then 3 nights at Hobatere a bit further north for slightly less arid game viewing. There are so many nice looking lodges in that area I couldn't bring myself to stay too long in any one.....
Nov 28th, 2006, 08:16 AM
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I certainly will do. And yes, thank you for a very informative and intruiging trip report tordenmalm. How long did it take you to drive from Palmwag to Cape Cross? And you can do that road from Palmwag down to the coast in a 2WD? That's a good road? Could I ask, would you have let your "least experienced" driver do that route?
And did you drive on the dunes too, or did I misunderstand you?
And did you drive on the dunes too, or did I misunderstand you?
Nov 28th, 2006, 10:57 AM
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Glad to hear you appreciated my report.
atravelynn - I'm sure you could easily spend three days at Palmwag. The Palmwag Lodge organizes several different safaris and excursions that all seemed interesting.
cybor - Both 2WD and 4WD are common on the gravel roads. We saw quite a few small 2WD cars, VW Golf-sized.
kimburu - I think it took us about 6 hours from Palmwag to Cape Cross, including changing tyres and stopping one hour for shipwreck watching and picknic. We typically did 80-90 km/h and it's just straight ahead, almost no turns
. The road was very good, a standard gravel road that our least experienced driver did drive, in our 2WD VW bus. I can imagine that you'll get loose sand on it during a storm though. Seek local advise once there if wheather seems unreliable.
We didn't drive any dunes.
atravelynn - I'm sure you could easily spend three days at Palmwag. The Palmwag Lodge organizes several different safaris and excursions that all seemed interesting.
cybor - Both 2WD and 4WD are common on the gravel roads. We saw quite a few small 2WD cars, VW Golf-sized.
kimburu - I think it took us about 6 hours from Palmwag to Cape Cross, including changing tyres and stopping one hour for shipwreck watching and picknic. We typically did 80-90 km/h and it's just straight ahead, almost no turns
. The road was very good, a standard gravel road that our least experienced driver did drive, in our 2WD VW bus. I can imagine that you'll get loose sand on it during a storm though. Seek local advise once there if wheather seems unreliable.We didn't drive any dunes.
Nov 29th, 2006, 04:37 PM
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tordenmalm
A friend and I did a 2004 "Wild Dogs" 13 day safari through Namibia,taking in the seals, dunes, wild life preserves,touched the shores of Angola, into Zimbabwa to Victoria Falls. 13 days in a tent, one night in a 'krall'with the natives, witnessing a circumcision celebration with the butchering of the cow.Spent 18 hours on a bus, 23 hours on planes.What a great experience. The thing I came away with,in reference to all the missionaries trying to change the native, is "leave them alone. You may not agreee with me, but they have survived this long and not every country needs to be "westernized" just so they can learn the meaning of government entitlement. They are doing just fine, primitive though it may be, they survive. Enjoyed your re-cap.
Healthone
A friend and I did a 2004 "Wild Dogs" 13 day safari through Namibia,taking in the seals, dunes, wild life preserves,touched the shores of Angola, into Zimbabwa to Victoria Falls. 13 days in a tent, one night in a 'krall'with the natives, witnessing a circumcision celebration with the butchering of the cow.Spent 18 hours on a bus, 23 hours on planes.What a great experience. The thing I came away with,in reference to all the missionaries trying to change the native, is "leave them alone. You may not agreee with me, but they have survived this long and not every country needs to be "westernized" just so they can learn the meaning of government entitlement. They are doing just fine, primitive though it may be, they survive. Enjoyed your re-cap.
Healthone
Nov 30th, 2006, 02:45 AM
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Thanks tordenmalm. Yes, the possibility of sand drifts was the reason I had it in my head that raod was not advisable in a 2WD....good to know it's a possibility anyway.
Pray, tell more healthone. It'd be very interesting to hear - especially about the far north.
Pray, tell more healthone. It'd be very interesting to hear - especially about the far north.
May 21st, 2007, 10:47 AM
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Finally I've uploaded some photos. Sorry it took me so long. You'll find them at http://stefan.tordenmalm.com
