I am a female solo traveler and am wondering how to make the most of a one-night layover in Nairobi: (1) Should I stay in the city (e.g., the Karen Blixen cottages), or in the city (e.g., the Stanley or the Norfolk)? (2) If my flight arrives at the intl. airport at 2:15, how long would it take to get into Karen, and what should I do first given my limited time there (e.g., will I only have time for either the giraffes, OR the animal orphanage, OR the Karen Blixen museum, but not all three of those)? (3) Where is a good/casual place for solo travelers to get dinner or a drink and just relax, and how should that affect my accommodations choices? (4) Should I pre-arrange a taxi from the airport into Karen? Or would a tour guide be a way to go? I am just in my preliminary planning phases, so any thoughts at all are most appreciated. Thanks for your advice!
Nairobi layover - where to stay, what to do
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We really enjoyed our day with a private guide/driver. I thought it was great to be with a local guide, so much insight into the way of life in a country that I had not previously visited.
A local guide/driver could pick you up at Jomo Kenyatta, and take you to some sights around the city, and suggest a good place for dinner. Me, I'd even invite him for dinner....
And then, he could drop you at a hotel either out in Karen if you would rather, which would be close to Wilson for you the next day (presuming you are flying out to a NP from Wilson) - or - you could stay downtown at the Stanley or the Norfolk and then arrange for a ride to Wilson the next day.
From what I saw of the mass confusion outside at the airport of people offering tours, rides, etc - I was so GLAD that all of this had been pre-arranged!
I second Lyndas suggestion. It really is such a relief to have someone waiting for you at the airport and if you do it that way then you can you will have more time to see / do things in Nairobi as you won't have to drop your bags at your hotel first.
We used the same guide as Lynda by the way.
Imelda
Lynda has some good points. Where are you going the next day and at what time? If elsewhere in Kenya or Tanzania, why not have your outfitter arrange the pick-up/transfer from the airport to hotel.
While 2:15pm is a good time to arrive, you have to figure about 45/min at minimum, to clear Immigration, obtain Visa if you haven't prior to arrival and collect your luggage. The drive into NBO downtown (Stanley, Norfolk) is about 40-min and maybe another 20-min to Karen. But that's not taking into consideration traffic. With good karma you may make it to your hotel between 4-4:30pm.
Not sure when the Karen Blixen Museum or Giraffe Center closes, but I'd guess 5pm (their websites may have the hours of operation.) All of these are located in Karen, within 5/min drive from one another, so Karen Blixen Cottages may be your best bet if it works with your budget. If staying here, you can enjoy dinner in-house; inquire here about other options, but you'd need a taxi to/from the eatery of your choice.
The Daphne Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage is open for viewing at 11am daily, but if you adopt an ellee (see their website) you can make an appointment to visit at 5:30pm.
As your plans come together, we can probably fine tune the short time you have.
Very helpful - thank you so much! Is there a particular guide/tour operator that you would recommend? I am flying in and out of the international terminal the next day (not Wilson, even though my leg out is a domestic ft), so does it make more sense to visit Karen in the afternoon but stay in the city? Or are the Karen Blixen cottages nice, and would that be a good place to spend my one evening? Where would you recommend if I only had one night (with a guide) for dinner? Also - according to my guide book most places close by 6 (the Karen Blixen museum closes at 6, the giraffe centre closes at 5:30, etc.), and the elephant orphanage sounds amazing, so if I could be in Karen by 4, 4:30'ish, are there any of these I should really try not to miss?
Of the 3, I have to say Sheldrick is my favorite. Assuming your flight arrives on time, you get out fairly quickly, and can arrange a late afternoon foster parent visit at Sheldrick, you could probably squeeze in one other place right before that since they're all very close to each other.
What time is your flight out of NBO the next morning? If you have early flight, I'd vote for staying in the city or at the Panari which is the closest hotel to NBO.
My flight the next morning is the 11 a.m. flight to Malindi, so I do have a little flexibility. And based on everyone's comments thus far, it seems like my main questions involve (1) finding a good tour guide and (2) figuring out where to stay for my one night!
Re tour guides: Any suggestions?
Re Karen Cottages: Is this worth the extra money ($220 per night, vs. $109 per night for the Stanley)? The pros seem to be that we could swing by there and drop my baggage off right after the airport, before continuing on to the animal orphanage, etc. (so I wouldn't need to lug my luggage around), and the Karen cottages seem interesting in and of themselves, as well as safe and near to the elephant orphanage, etc. The cons are that the Karen cottages cost more than the Stanley, and I would have to leave earlier for the airport the next morning (although 20 minutes in the morning is not a deal to me). Also, in terms of whether the Karen Cottages have a more convenient location, that also kind of depends on where I would have dinner that night! Hmm...
Thanks for all your tips!
When we were in Nairobi a friend and I used Kennedy Muthoka at Waymark Tours (waymarkt @ nbnet. co . ke ). He's a great person. Oh, and a good guide too. I recommended him to Lynda and Imelda above.
I'm not sure what his prices are nowadays as I was in Nairobi in 2004, but Lynda, Imelda and any number of others can advise you.
I can't remember the name of our hotel--but it wasn't very good, so I wouldn't recommend it.
I would recommend staying at the Fairview Hotel and arranging through the hotel for one of the hotel-based drivers to meet you at the airport, do any sightseeing you want and then do an airport transfer the next day.
Jimmy Kamau was recommended to me and I was pleased with his driving/guiding.
LAtravlr-
I wholly concur on the recomendation of the guide for Nairobi that Leely gave us - as she mentioned, it's Kennedy at Waymark Safaris - be sure to ask if there is time for a 'cheetah hug' at the orphanage - truly a hilight of our trip! Many of us, as Imelda mentioned, on the board have used him - he's a fabulous person and a fabulous guide!
i've seen the Sarova Panafri for $72. I know it's the same company that owns the Stanley. How does it compare with the Norfolk mentioned above?
I don't like to be a party pooper, but is this a practical idea? The logistics look really dodgy to me. Better to get to your hotel, see what time it is and take it from there. If you have a guide that's cool, but it's not necessary at all - really it depends on how confident and independent you feel. A hotel taxi will take you to any of these places and wait for you (IF you have the time to do any of them). I think these plans sound like something I would try to do and therefore strongly advise against them.
Or am I just being a big, wet blanket?
I would definately agree with Leely and Lynda about Kennedy abd DEFINATELY ask about the Cheetah Hug - an UNBELIEVABLE experience! If I only had time to do two things I would opt for the cheetah hug at the KWS orphanage and Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage in the evening (as mentioned you need to be a foster parent to visit at this time but it is for a worthy cause and a fantastic experience).
As for dropping off your luggage at the hotel beforehand, I wouldn't bother as you can just take it with you in the vehicle - we did this when we booked Kennedy in July and it saved a lot of time.
We splurged and stayed at the Nairobi Serena. It was a lovely hotel but was quite expensive. We ate in the restaurant one evening and for about $50 for two of us we had the best meal we ate throughout our entire trip.
I don't really know much about other places to eat except Haandi Indian Restauraunt is supposed to be fantastic (they have a website) and we had planned on going there but never made it. There is also Carnivore but again I can't tell you anything from personal experience.
Imelda
It is quite an experience to tickle the tummy of a cheetah. And hold one of its paws in your hands.
http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pmAkndzHuOfdwwkDcEo865BP4OQRXA3yhKsxFZC9Fm7a5m8027Fu0EC3F1ZKlmKbyEAzx8w57-RdkclV4zpxmToBbh9bmf2IipjE4nXoN5oOVH01OCSeKI39mWfKgNTJT5AqgR2j4_e4
Haandi is great. In Westlands. In the same complex is Temambo. Part of same chane as Carnivore but much more upmarket... very good seafood.
Nairobi is not short on great places to eat. But for great Chicken and Chips, try a Kenchick! There's loads of them around.
chane? I meant chain.
Also the brazilian restauranmt at the Panari Hotel does pretty good nyama choma (bbq meat) and has a better salad selection than the Carnivore.
Pumbavu - Fabulous picture! is it from the infamous "cheetah hug" at KWS?
Pumbavu, I agree with Toshi. What a shot!
Yes, it's at the animal orphanage at the entrance to Nairobi National Park (main gate)
More photos http://spaces.msn.com/members/simonru/
Thanks - all of you!! Subject to your further thoughts and suggestions, here's what I have based on everyone's extremely helpful suggestions: #1) Kennedy is all lined up to pick me up at the airport!!!! and - my impression is the same as Lynda's was - he is a fun emailer! We are going to hug cheetahs and go to the elephant orphanage, plus whatever else we can fit in before dinner (giraffe centre, Karen Blixen museum, etc.), #2) I think I going to book a room at the Stanley, just because it's historic($109 including breakfast), and #3) Kennedy's suggestion for dinner is the Carnivore restaurant, and so far that is the strongest recommendation I've seen so, I guess that is a good choice? It does seem fun... and then #4) Kennedy is taking me to the airport the next morning. I'm not sure yet how fostering an elephant work, so if anyone has tips let me know (I'll also email the center) and thank you all again for your help...
You can complete the foster application it online at www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org and click on fostering. You'll need to email them with your date to set up the afternoon visit.
Have a great time! Where else are you going other than Nairobi?