My 1st African Adventure/June 2011

Great start, KathBC; welcome home! I'm looking forward to hearing all about your adventure.

Hey where'd my Kenya/Tanzania go???

Dunno... did you post a link? You can't post the actual photos on Fodors.

Welcome home

enjoying your packing clothes adventure so far !!

Great start and can't wait for more!

Thanks Sharon! You provided some really helpful advice & I thank you for that!

The Kenya/Tanzania I was referring to is the tag. Coulda sworn it was there earlier!!

Thanks Percy, yes my next 2 chapters will be on hair styles best suited for a semi arid region and the pros & cons of not wearing nail polish! Better stay tuned!!

Aahh... got it! I wonder if you can edit that, being the original poster (OP).

Great start!

... no nail polish, that could be considered blasmphemy for me! Can't wait to hear the cons. And, of course the safari segments.

LOL sandi!!Yeah I found it tough with my toe nails bare for a month but then found it just as odd when they got coloured again!

Hope to have the next chapter up in the next day or so.

... been there also!

Welcome back! Laughing about your gratitude for "big hips." Looking forward to reading more.

Welcome back. I'm sure you have many tales.

Nairobi

https://picasaweb.google.com/111548005432555572965/NairobiW05?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCPHJ2YH61erHGg&feat=directlink

Sandi @ Africa Serendipity arranged the Kenyan portion and was a dream to work with. sandi@africaserendipity.com Her replies were always prompt & very thorough and I really felt she understood what I was looking for and always offered options I hadn't thought of. Much like she does on this forum! The final package mailed out to me was chock full of information & resources.

Macushla House in the Nairobi suburb of Karen is an ideal spot especially for a solo traveler not only for its charm, lovely home cooked meals and personal service but there was always someone interesting to have dinner and exchange the day’s events with. And if you wanted just to be on your own, for a 6 room B&B there were plenty of places to do just that without having to be in your room. There was definitely a sense of homeyness here.

The elephant mud bath at the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage was the best way to start an adventure. I mean who can resist baby eles slip sliding around in mud the colour of milk chocolate? They were way toooo hilarious! We came back later in the day to feed & tuck in my fostered baby Sities who simply made my heart melt even tho she wasn’t so keen on getting her photo taken. What a fabulous place this is!

Riding the streets of Nairobi with Kennedy ispear4@hotmail.com whos expert driving skills kept us safe amidst the craziness that is Nairobi traffic and the heavily armed security we had to go thru just to go for lunch, was much appreciated and a huge thrill all at the same time. Keep in mind we Canadians only see AK47s in movies.

The 2 full days in Nairobi gave me a chance to rest up before the “Main Event” with a visit to the Karen Blixen Museum which if you’ve seen the movie you simply can’t miss but in the end will probably find a bit of a letdown since most of the things inside the house are props from the movie. The day we came by there were 2 different events with large tents on the lawns which the farmhouse seemed to get lost in. Still how can you not go, just don’t expect too much.

Other visits included Kazuri Beads & Utamaduni with a nice lunch at the Verandah Restaurant next door. Being a consummate shopper I had a pretty good idea of what I was looking for as souvenirs & gifts so was able to get a lot of my shopping done 1st thing and have it kept for me at Macushla until my return after safari. Of course that doesn’t mean there was no shopping done along the way!

One evening around 6:15 as Kennedy & I were driving back to Macushla we happened to go by the Giraffe Centre just as the giraffes were about to be taken across the road to the main park. Altho it was getting dark already we stopped for some photos, the keepers were there and gave us some pellets to feed them . It was glorious cuddling with a giraffe head on either side of mine, that is until one licked Kennedy on the top of his head and practically made him fall into the ditch along the road!! Ahhh only in Afreekah I tell ya!

This is great...keep it coming. Glorious cuddling with a giraffe: what's not to like?

Waiting for more!

Loving your report & waiting for lots more! The type of info you are giving is fabulous, it will help many people.

As always, love your humor, you especially had me laughing on the AK47, you are so right - only in movies here! But I did see one once on a guard in London's Heathrow (in 1994). Can't prove it though as Jamie dragged me way very quickly when he saw I was going to take a picture

As you know, I have looked through all of your pictures and would like to tell everyone they are AMAZING - to me they have really captured the essense of Africa.

Great first day!

I am following and enjoying !!

Lovely report. Macushla is a gem. I remember doing searches here a couple of years ago and I think only one mention of it appeared … no one seemed to know about it. Now I think it is doing a roaring 'Fodors' trade and so it should. Having stayed there a number of times now, it never fails to deliver the goods. I just make sure I book well in advance.
I've never caught the giraffe crossing the road to the night quarters, despite my best efforts.

Looking forward to the next instalments.

Thanks everyone! Glad to know somebody out there is reading these.

LyndaS - Of course the report will be good...you taught me well.

twaffle - Macushla was fully booked both times I stayed there while other places on this trip were either empty or only had a few rooms filled. So booking well ahead is a good idea.

Samburu

https://picasaweb.google.com/111548005432555572965/SamburuW?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCNqz4O79zuatQA&feat=directlink

Flew Air Kenya to Samburu in an 11 seat prop plane flown by a beautiful Kenyan woman. We passed Mount Kenya, made a quick stop in Nanyuki then off we flew over the equator. I loved being in these small planes flying low to the ground with a spectacular view all around showing the stunning change in vegetation from lush green around Nairobi to the scrub desert plains as we got closer to Samburu.

The Samburu Game Lodge was great for someone who didn’t think she’d be quite ready for a tent on the 1st stop. (Of course that’s all changed and it’s tenting all the way from now on!) The lodge overlooks the Ewaso Nyiro River and the meals were plentiful, served ala carte rather than buffet as there were so few people there in early June. No air con but in early June the fan was enough for the 1st few hours of the night before the generator was shut off. Lots of vervet monkeys around but always a Samburu with a sling shot to make sure they didn’t jump on your dinner table. This of course didn’t go quite so well one morning when one brave vervet managed to sneak by undetected and landed on the table behind me. What a commotion with plates and food flying everywhere! Too funny!!

The big bonus with so few guests was having a vehicle & driver all to myself for the 2 days there. Peter was my 26 year old Samburu guide who had a very keen eye, lived 230 miles from the lodge so only went home every 3 months or so and a girlfriend he couldn’t marry until he owned 12 cows of which he only had 2 so far.

I will never forget seeing my 1st lion here especially since we practically ran over him coming around one of the toothbrush bushes cause he was lying half on the road and then after only one photo my camera batteries died and in my excitement of the 1st game drive I’d forgotten to pack extras!! I can assure you that never happened again!

Samburu was my favourite park of all especially the area around Koitogor Hill. I loved the large green bushes with winding trails all around them to follow until you came to a little clearing full of wildlife in various poses, looking like they were there just waiting for you to come take their picture. The doum palms & acacia trees alongside a dried up tree with the hill in the background that looked a bit like a pyramid. It rained for 5 minutes our 1st time out making the air smell with such absolute sweetness and I think it was at that moment that I fell in love with the place.

The reticulated giraffe were magical to see as they bobbed above the low lying bushes, elephants were plentiful & very friendly, the beisa oryx spectacular especially in a herd of 20. Only saw grevy zebra from a distance but lots of gerenuk who were much too quick for this amateur photographer to get a good photo of standing on their hind legs feeding.

We followed a cheetah who kept his gaze on the horizon (what was it that kept his attention so?) only stopping to mark his territory before continuing on. Then Peter whispered “Hold on madam” and off we went to get to the part of the road where we thought he’d be headed for. There is nothing more exhilarating than standing in the back of a land cruiser, roof up, one foot on the seat on either side of the aisle, hanging on to the roof bar and racing down a bumpy African road to catch a closer look at a cheetah! That moment alone was worth all the planning, the long flights and budgeting. This is what I had come all this way for.

We came upon a herd of impala where all the juveniles were racing and jumping in a circle going faster & faster showing off to each other with how far they could jump. Father meanwhile was grazing across the road until he spotted the shenanigans and charged across the road to break it up chasing the adolescents in all directions. I had to smile remembering a similar time with my father and my brother & me and a bicycle.

Was really looking forward to visiting the Samburu village and desperately hoping it was authentic and they weren’t all just clocking in for a few hours. Well the village did look the real deal where the tribe actually might have lived (unlike the one in the Mara that I’m not so convinced about) but the experience was sadly tainted with a hard sell to buy everything in sight as well as contribute to building a school even tho there was a new modern building up the hill that looked like it would easily accommodate all the children in the village. And then there was the village shopping mall with no less than 20 women all displaying the same trinkets for prices that were 3 times more than what could be found in the lodge gift shop.

I’m all for lending support as best I can and am more than fine with the $35USD fee charged for the tour but I soooo wish these villages would lighten up on the hard sell tactics so visitors don’t feel like they’re being sold a time share. Why not have a few women actually making the trinkets with a display for sale at a price less than the camp/lodge gift shop. I, for one, would have bought much more especially from the person who made the item.

On to the Mara next…

I'm enjoying the trip report KathBC. I do believe you're hooked on Africa!! I totally understand what you're saying about the village "shopping" experience. I think some villages are more "hard sell" than others. Perhaps someone would like to step in and offer some marketing expertise to them?

Love the photos too, KathBC. Very nice cheetah pics!

Great report and photos, thanks Kathee.

Great report, keep it coming!!
I also enjoy the neat view on those low flights

Village crafts - If they had there the person who made the crafts, they would be speaking Chinese!! ....... (sorry, could not resist)

regards - tom

"no a/c at Samburu Game Lodge" - I sure hope that was a joke. * Lodges/camps while on safari do not have a/c. Nights cool and this seems fine for sleeping year-round and as mentioned, some properties do have fans. Generators being turned off once guests retire, is not at all unusual. They're back on early morning.

*the only camp that I've seen with a/c is at Grumeti Reserves in Tanzania, believe it's their Faru Faru Camp; but you pay dearly for this in the range of $1500/person/nt.

Enjoying the pictures also.

Very nice of the people at Samburu and the " Shopping Mall"

Would those be Grant's gazelles in photo 85? "Grant's wear pants", as they say (white up over the tail.)

Oops! Thanks Shaytay, caption has been corrected.

Really had a hard time telling the difference between some of the antelope but glad to know I got a nice shot of the Grants!

No worries! Those critters can all look alike at first.

Your people shots are excellent! Samburu provided a lot of variety for you based on the photos. The oryx herds are quite artistic.

Samburu is a favorite of mine too.

"Hold on madam." You are right that those words are the start of something special.

The first lion is always exciting and yours taught you a lesson.

I'm really enjoying your trip report. I think you have now caught the "bug". I hope to see you once again at Lynda's GTG in September.

atravelynn - Wow! thanks so much for the photo compliment. Having seen your photography I am truly honoured! And yes "Hold on madam" now certainly means something exciting is about to happen. The sometimes white knuckling of the ride can be quite an adrenaline rush regardless of the final outcome.

Thanks raelond! You're suggestion of the No Jet Lag pills really helped me enjoy Nairobi with more oomph! Will for sure see you in September.

Masai Mara

https://picasaweb.google.com/111548005432555572965/MasaiMaraW?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLXVuZ7EqIqGlAE&feat=directlink

Sammy from Kichwa Tembo picked me up at the airstrip and no sooner had we settled in the vehicle and he suggested pulling my camera out than 3 male lions appeared right next to the vehicle. Then only 50 feet further down the road 2 elephants started mating and I hadn’t even checked in yet! This seemed to set the tone for the next few days as wildlife was plentiful in the Mara Triangle.

Kichwa Tembo was my 1st tented camp & it was fantastic! No single supplement and the classic tent was spacious & clean. Tent #5 offered an absolutely stunning view of the Mara. No electrical plugs so no hairdryer but can’t say it really mattered much. Hairdryers were available in the main washroom and the bar had an area where you could re-charge your electronics. The nights were cool here so getting into your bed made toasty & warm by a hot water bottle was a real treat. Lying in bed at night listening to lions & zebras calling out in the distance was just a bit scary the 1st night cause they sounded so close but by the 2nd night trying to decipher what animal was making what sound seemed to lull me to sleep.

All meals at the camp were served outside on tables under a beautiful old fig tree and at dinner there were lanterns set out all over the lawn and hung in the trees creating this lovely ethereal ambience. Best butter chicken I’ve ever had and a macadamia nut tart to die for!! Chef George stopped by every meal so I was able to wrangle the recipe from him, just have to save up for the $100 (Canadian price) worth of macadamia nuts that goes into it.

Blue monkeys scampered over the tent top but rarely were seen on the ground except for the last morning where, while enjoying coffee in front of my tent, out of nowhere one appeared on the corner of the little table and stuffed sugar cubes in its mouth while staring me down as if daring me to stop him. I’m positive his eyeballs rolled as I feebly yelled “Heeey , Shoo! Go away” while trying not to laugh. With cheeks and hands full he scurried off as quickly as he arrived.

Again the camp was not that busy so it was just Sammy my driver and I in an open sided vehicle for the whole 3 days. With his boisterous laugh and our similar sense of humour we merrily laughed our way thru the Triangle. The open sided vehicles were great as you really feel so much more with nature than in a pop up land cruiser, altho I still love the standing on the seat bit in the pop ups! It did get a bit chilly in the morning and as the sun went down or when racing to a leopard sighting.

I was hoping to get a chance to see the 3 cheetah brothers who were said to be hanging out around Rhino Ridge but was told the other side of the Mara was a different park & we would be staying only in the Mara Triangle. Somehow I missed that there was more than 1 park in my research.

The grass was tall but we still were able to find 4 lionesses with 10 little 6 mth old cubs that I could have watched for days. Never ceases to amaze me how unfazed the cats are by vehicles, although there were only 3 at this sighting.

Witnessed a young couple who were self driving, arguing with the park ranger as he fined them for off roading next to a male lion and 2 females. Again the cats didn’t seem to notice all the commotion but everyone else gave the rangers a thumbs up as the couple sped away in a huff.

This particular male lion was so gorgeous with his mane looking like it had been combed to the side for his big date with the ladies.

Visited a Masai village on the hill above Kichwa where I suspect the tribe didn’t even live but instead lived in the village just below. Another large shopping mall with all the same stuff and the same high prices. $70US for a small beaded nesting basket and 2 beaded bracelets was just plain silly and so so sad!! Does anyone actually pay these prices?? They must or else they wouldn’t be quoting them. Am seriously considering setting up a marketing workshop for them next time I’m there.

While enjoying a couple of 6 mth old hyenas rough housing around a call came in on the radio that a leopard was walking along the river where we'd been just 20 minutes earlier watching a herd of zebras. The sun was close to setting so with a quick "hold on madam" one hand grabbed the side bar, the other my hat and off we flew! She was a beauty this leopard who seemed to enjoy having her picture taken and wasn't in any hurry to disappear in the bushes. We stayed with her till our eyes hurt from squinting in the dark then sped out of the park before any rangers appeared. As you can see the light wasn't good and if anyone has any suggestions on how I can get these leopard shots looking better I'd be very grateful.

There were lots of topis everywhere standing on their look outs and nodding in greeting as you went by. Cape buffalo grazing, a family of elephants marching in a line and zebras gathering at the river to drink ever mindful of the crocs. The days were always warm & sunny with the threat of a storm way off in the distance and the odd lightning strike. One night there was even a shooting star that seemed to punctuate the already magical display of the southern sky.

I truly loved my time in the Mara Triangle, Kichwa Tembo and Kenya overall, I mean where else can you see 2 lionesses lounging alongside the airstrip as your twin otter takes off?

Next…KathBC buys a cow …

Enjoying following your trip!

Nice pictures.

I hope you are able to bring the cow home

Excellent report Kath! Love your pictures as well, wow the wide open spaces of the Masai Mara and I can picture hundreds of thousands Wilderbeast, Zebras etc.. running around. Thanks!

Percy you'll have to stay tuned to see if the cow makes it home.

Hanuman all the wildebeest were in the Serengeti in June, didn't see one till Lake Manyara! But they should be in the Mara in August when you're there. Fingers will be crossed for you!

Lots of lions! Nice facial shots of them. Even if their handiworks were expensive, you got some additional nice people shots.

Thank you Kath and I really hope we will get our dream safari!

Anxiously waiting for your Giraffe Manor report!

atravelynn it was a good thing there were so many lions in the Mara cause we only saw one in the Serengeti!!

Hanuman I'm determined to get this trip report completed, just hope it's before you leave. What date are you flying out?

Kath - I'm leaving on the 31st July and will spend a couple of nights at the G. manor before heading out to the Masai Mara. Already receiving news that there are tens of thousands of wilderbeast right at our fist camp(Sala's) so I'm very excited!

Hanuman -

Sala's - that's where I saw the herds last year! Even if during early-June they kept moving back-n-forth across the Sand River.

Send my best to Sissa, camp manager, who is wonderful and an outstanding cook!

Just 1 in the Serengeti? Were you given any explanation such as just not lucky with lions, or some other reason?

Only one lion in the Serengeti? Wow, that IS strange! On one safari to the Serengeti, we were trying to find cheetahs and everywhere we looked, there were lions (probably why we didn't find the cheetahs.)

My time in the Serengeti was spent around Kirawira, the migration was everywhere but no lions, no cheetahs, no leopard.

Other guests in the camp had spotted a lioness in the distance around a kill. We kept going back to the kill trying to find her with no luck and the kill remained untouched for 2 days. My guide couldn't believe it!

The one we did see was around Seronera on our way to Kirawira.

Over the years, I haven't seen all that many lions or cheetah in the Serengeti; a leopard once up a tree. But this was during June thru Oct periods. In total, I can count on one hand. Guess, it's luck. But always lots of predators in the Mara and surrounds.

Haven't been during the wildie "calving" season, but from what I've heard and we've all read, lots of predators at Ndutu and South Serengeti, ready to enjoy the vittals! Some, little simba are often so full, they're dragging bellies on the ground.

sandi - will extend your greeting to Sissa!

KathBC buys a cow

https://picasaweb.google.com/111548005432555572965/ArushaCattleMarketW?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOqPpPKhudymDw&feat=directlink

Arriving in Arusha you immediately notice the abundance of tropical plants and magnificent banana trees. Driving from the airport into town there were large herds of cattle and goats tended by little Masai boys most of whom were casually lying on their stomachs, chin propped on their hands, eyes level with the road and looking at you had to wonder what. So adorable! They seemed not to have a care in the world and I so regret not getting a photo although I doubt they would have let me.

Stayed one night in the stunning African Tulip Hotel in a large, modern & spacious room. Grounds and pool area are beautifully landscaped but they have a few minor things to work out like room windows not locking & shower stalls that leak. They were very nice about moving me into another room and I wouldn’t hesitate staying there again. It was heaven being able to refresh here, be out of the dust and stay clean for a 1/2 day before setting off again.

My private safari in Tanzania was handled by Warrior Trails http://www.warriortrails.com/ who came highly recommended by friends and especially their guide Jackson. I was so glad to have taken their advise cause if I was going to be spending 6 days in a vehicle with someone in a country I’d never been to before it was important for me to feel comfortable with that person. The moment I met Jackson I knew my friends were right! He is a very experienced & knowledgeable guide who really cares that you have a fantastic experience. A good conversationalist who took the most excellent care of me and taught me a lot about the wildlife and all the places we visited. And most importantly about a potent moonshine aptly named “Kill me Quickly” made from the sausage tree!

Clamian Kitesho the owner of Warrior Trails is said to be the first Masai Warrior to start his own tour company in Tanzania so when he emailed a month before my departure asking if there was anything else they could do to make my trip memorable I had just the thing for him.

I had always wanted to buy a cow for a family in a third world country in hopes of improving their lives over an extended period of time rather just a quick fix, but most of the organizations who offered this had very expensive cows. I had also read that going to a Masai cattle market could be interesting so asked Clamian if there happened to be one along our route and how much a cow went for in that part of the world and if he could connect me with a Masai widow with children who could really use a cow. Masai widows are not allowed to remarry so with children and no husband, the struggle would be even greater.

I got a lot of LOLs in his first response to my request as I don’t think he quite believed me and am sure he’s never been asked to arrange something like this before. But after learning I grew up on a small farm he seemed to understand and soon found Nalari, a 33 year old widow with 5 children ranging in age from 3 to 12 years old. Sounded like a perfect match to me!

Clamian set off with Jackson and I from Arusha to a village about 45 minutes out of town and had wisely sent a couple of Masai men to the cattle market ahead of us to find just the right cow for just the right price.

After meeting Nalari and her children all scrubbed and clean in their Masai best I was taken into the cattle enclosure to inspect and approve the selected cow. She was a beautiful young sable cow in a lovely tawny colour who I was assured would produce a calf within 18 mths. Excellent! Everyone was thrilled, the cash changed hands and voila Nalari and her family had a new cow and my dream had finally come true! We bought a rope and one of the men led the cow back to Nalari’s boma.

After we walked thru the produce market for a while I wanted to take my new African family out for a treat and asked Clamian where he thought we should go. Back home we’d go for ice cream but what would Masai children consider a treat? Seems that would be goat, rice and Fanta. I opted for just a diet pepsi.

After lunch Nalari wanted me to see her home which was quite a distance from the market area so about 12 of us piled into the land cruiser and with children sitting on laps and some Masai women (we acquired a few more along the way) sitting in the aisle we headed up the road to Nalari’s village. About half way there Lemeshulay, the 2nd youngest at 5 yrs old, started crying while the older children tried to calm him. It was only then I learned that the younger children had never been in a vehicle before and he was quite nervous about the new experience while the 3 oldest, who attended school, were quite excited about their adventure and were assuring him they’d all end up at home a lot faster this way. Lemeshulay just wanted to walk home like they always did and was very very happy when we finally came to a stop in front of his hut.

All the village children came out to see the visitors and greet the new cow and were soon coming up to me with a pointed finger, nearly but not quite touching my arm and then turning to run off giggling. It took me a bit to clue in then Clamian explained the younger ones didn’t see white people very often if at all and if they did it was only when the white people drove by in their vehicles. But never right in their village like today. With that I outstretched both arms and encouraged them to touch away! What a tremendous feeling to be in the midst of all that giggling which then turned to true curiosity! Once they lost interest in my skin it was pictures of themselves on my camera that brought back the squeals.

So after lots of picture taking with the cow and without the cow and receiving necklaces of thank you from Nalari we all sadly said goodbye with promises from Clamian that he would let me know how the family was getting on from time to time and news of any calves being born.

Warrior Trails’ motto is creating unforgettable safaris & lifelong memories and for me this day, they truly did.

What a wonderful, wonderful story. I'm glad you didn't trial the 'Kill Me Quickly' moonshine and were able to fulfil your cow buying destiny. What does a cow cost, roughly? It seems like a lovely thing to do and perhaps you can go back and visit one day and there might be many cows for Nalari's children to care for. The cows all looked very healthy. I particularly liked the photo with all the hands reaching out to touch you.

Wonderful!

You could not have recounted a better "buy a cow" story. Warrior Trails should incorporate that option into its itinerary. What a wonderful lifelong memory for more than just you. Now for the cow photos.

What a nice thing to do!

I never heard of Grants wear pants. Clever.

Smiles all around, even the new cow. This is Heifer Project meets Northern Circuit. What a brilliant idea that I believe may inspire others to do the same.

When convenient, could you email me? I use my screen name on hotmail. Thanks.

The email request is for KathBC.

Lovely idea, KathBC! That might be something I look into next year when I return to Tanzania. I'll pass it by Bill Given, who's planning the safari. I bet that would be a first for him, as well.

Atravelynn, the "Grants wear pants" phrase helps some folks differentiate Grants from Tommies. The Tommies white patch doesn't go over the tail, but the Grants do.

It was an amazing day I won't soon forget!

And it was important for me to be involved in the process, experience the cattle market and meet and learn about who the cow was going to. It just made it all that more special than the usual donating cash to an organization.

I've encouraged Clamian to offer something like this plus goats on his website. The cost varies from $200 to $350 depending on the size of the cow and how good your negotiator is!

Holy cow - what a great story! It sounds like you had a wonderful adventure and will have a lot great memories

Superb story KathBC

I never heard of cow buying before.

Kathy - I just caught up with your trip report today - it's great! I almost spit out my coffee laughing about the blue monkey stealing sugar cubes and daring you to intervene

The Tanzanian Trail

It was late in the day after all the bovine excitement that Jackson & I headed to Lake Manyara, with a quick trip to the hippo pool before checking into the Serena located high on the escarpment overlooking the lake. The views from here were breathtaking and the rondawels clean, bright and very comfy. Overall the lodge looked great although arriving late there wasn’t much time to fully take it all in and enjoy. Meals were excellent and one of the new trainees in the dining room kept me in conversation throughout dinner while practicing her English and wondering what tribe I was from.

The next morning we were back at the hippo pool where the hippos were actually out of the water and I saw my 1st but definitely not my last wildebeest! Olive baboons were everywhere busy as can be with grooming and chasing each other around.

Lake Manyara is undoubtedly beautiful and wouldn’t miss it but don’t think it warrants an overnight especially in the second week of a safari. It would work much better at the beginning when you haven’t already been spoiled by seeing leopard, cheetah or a herd of beisa oryx. Yeah I know 7 days on safari and already a wildlife snob!!
Lunch at Gibbs Farm and the best pumpkin soup I’ve ever had! Tasty assortment of dishes all made from fresh ingredients grown on the farm and served up in a gardener’s paradise. Why don’t my canna lilies look like that???!!

The drive to Gibbs and around Karatu is one of many places I wished for a hidden camera, one you could hide in your lapel or something. (If I had a lapel that is!) I really loved seeing the day to day life in these villages but was ever respectful of not taking any photos of women in brightly coloured dresses with matching turbans or the children in their shiny Sunday best walking along the road. Or a group of guys playing checkers on a wooden box while several others looked over their shoulder. So many images I’m afraid I’ll forget.

We made it to the Crater Sopa just before dinner and instantly noticed the cold temperature and higher altitude. Don’t normally huff so much on the short inclined walk from my room to the dining room! My room was on the ground level so did not have a view of the crater because of the thick bushes in front of the windows. The rooms are large but in need of an upgrade. Wall heaters stood idle while you remained bundled up just relaxing in the room. When asked about turning the heaters on the lodge staff simply said they weren’t available. So why were they there??!! Because I had to sleep in my arctic fleece, socks and the blanket pulled over my head for the 2 nights even with some relief from the hot water bottles, the Sopa was the least favourite of all my accommodations and only made up for things with the quick access road and the stunning view of the crater from the pool and dining area.

Spent a great day in the crater which began with 2 male lions all curled up having a snooze. Lots of zebra everywhere and not as skittish as they were in other parks. Must be used to all the hundreds of vehicles they normally see in the peak season, thankfully that wasn‘t the case on this day. The highlight of the day was spotting a black rhino and her young at pretty close range. They appeared to want to cross the road we were on but as more vehicles, 7 in total showed up, they waited and waited then decided to stay right where they were. A really great sighting! Boxed lunch (blech) at the hippo pool with about 25 other vehicles. Loved seeing hippos rise out of the water with salad on their head! On the way out we drove past the same 2 lions who remained in the exact same spot as before, only change was they’d rolled over on their backs. I really really wanted to wake them up, but didn’t.

Next we drove from the Crater to Kirawira with stops at Oldupai Gorge for ½ an hour and lunch at the Serena. It was interesting seeing the desolate countryside with so many Masai villages and the ever present red robes dotting the grey landscape. We had a great sighting of a lioness on a kopje around Seronera , leopard in a tree and a hyena who was too old to care how close we were.

Once we got to Kirawira the migration took over and the wildebeest were everywhere! Thousands of them walking in lines, in all different directions, grazing or quietly enjoying the shade of a tree. The clack of the males head butting while the others bleated was quite something to see & hear! Got a kick out of the males who stared us down and then made a subtle move towards the vehicle in a show of defending the herd.

Around 10:30 each morning they would head to the river for a drink. No crossings just skittish drinking while the crocodiles looked on. It’s absolutely amazing having your vehicle surrounded by hundreds of wildebeest!

We drove by the Grumeti airstrip one day just as a plane was aborting take off because of wildes at the end of the strip. The day before planes were circling 3 times before it was clear to land. One lonely park ranger with an AK47 strapped to his back, which of course he couldn’t use, would be running around the airstrip waving his hands before the planes arrived. And just as he turned to walk back to the parking lot the wildes would start back across the airstrip again. We felt so bad for him. I offered him my whistle but he said he wasn’t allowed to use them.

The cats eluded us in this part of the Serengeti and although we saw a fresh kill just laying in the grass there was no sight of a predator. Went back the next day and the kill was still untouched and no cat anywhere.

There was the odd giraffe and elephant but the wildes and zebra seemed to have overtaken the whole area and although it was amazing to see I found the 2 full day game drives of just wildebeest to be too much of the same thing. I really missed the cats.
Kirawira Tented camp was superb and the Elephant tent situated close to the main tents but far enough away to feel private was an excellent recommendation by another Fodorite. Loved having my morning coffee on the verandah watching the sun rise over the Serengeti while pairs of different birds vied for a sip from the milk pitcher. Turn your back for a second and one would be sitting on the edge of it, their beaks already suspiciously white. Service was attentive but not overbearing and the meals were divine.

A sad farewell to Jackson as I flew off to Zanzibar while he got to drive back to Arusha. I couldn't imagine a better guide and overall person to spend a week exploring the northern circuit with and hope our paths cross again one day.

https://picasaweb.google.com/111548005432555572965/TanzaniaW?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCPScqJOpvaWy9gE&feat=directlink

Do I win a prize or anything for the longest post??!!

Kath, thanks for the report. I loved your pictures, especially the sleeping lion.

Does anyone know what the blue and yellow beetle is?

Kath, thanks for the report. I loved your pictures, especially the sleeping lion.

Does anyone know what the blue and yellow beetle is?

You certainly found the wildes and it seems they found the airstrip. Wonder if the old hyena is still around.

You picked a great place for your extra vacation week!

Thanks for the enthusiastic report.

Great report, and I love the cow buying story! What a wonderful, philanthropic gesture. I would love to see this become a regular excursion offered on safari operators' websites. Your photos greatly enhance that tale and all the wonderful places that you visited.

I should have asked if you had any plans to visit your cow again and the family that is keeping it? Or any place else in Africa?

Thanks for more pictures.

Enjoy the rest in Zanzibar !!

Thanks everyone! There's still a few more chapters to this saga so stay tuned! I know I know! But I promised Hanuman a review of Giraffe Manor before he leaves on his safari so altho he may have to read it on the plane will do my best to get it finished in the next day or two.

It's so hard to say if I'll ever make it back to see Nalari and her family. I just hope Clamian lets me know how everyone is doing from time to time and if there's ever a struggle to get all the children in school uniforms.

I'm waiting Kath! We fly tomorrow but will stop by Dubai for a day before arriving in Kenya so I hope you will be finished soon!

Will do my best Hanuman! Have a safe flight.

Kath: Loved this report! I am a female of a "certain age" leaving in 8 days for a solo trip to Kenya and S.Africa so this was really well-timed for me. My schedule didn't permit seeing Sities (I also foster her!) at the normal time, so am splurging and doing a private tour of Sheldrick's with one-on-one time with her. I hope she is more in the mood for photos that day! Tracy p-s Also loved your cow buying idea!!

Thanks Tracy! Tried to write this report with the 1st timer in mind.

Lucky you leaving in 8 days! I am soooo jealous! Hope you'll be writing your own report when you return. Will be watching for it.

Give Sities a nice pat on the head from her Vancouver mama.

DJCat...haven't been able to find out anything on that blue & yellow beetle but it sure stood out sitting there in the dirt.

Not being much of a beach person yet liking the idea of a few days by the sea after 2 dusty weeks on safari I chose Zanzibar not only because it sounds so damn exotic but the cultural aspect also really interested me.

Mchanga Beach Resort is pure perfection if you’re looking for somewhere quiet to catch up on some sleep, swim, read and just plain relax. It was such a peaceful paradise with only the quiet rumble of the waves in the background. The 6 sea view cottages all have a lovely view of the Indian Ocean and are beautifully decorated in turquoise and white to match the sea and a straw beach bag & towel waiting for you by the door. All have a/c which was a must for me (again thanks to all for that recommendation!) and all the meals were delicious. I still dream about the Zanzibari pancakes with lemongrass syrup served with a side of fresh tropical fruit or the rock lobster salad that was so big it had trouble staying on the plate.

The sand is the whitest I’ve ever seen and meticulously groomed every day. The dining room & bar floors were also sand and once you dig your toes into this magic powder you’ll forget all about any footwear until it’s time for you to leave. This attention to detail by owners Thomas & Gloria is evident everywhere, making your time at Mchanga unforgettable.

There was only a couple from Ottawa for the first three days and after extending my stay by one day, I found myself the only one in the whole resort for that final day. Felt a bit like I owned the place!

http://www.mchangabeachlodge.com/index.php

Took a spice tour on the way to Stone Town which was interesting and glad I bought my spices on the farm rather than waiting till town as the farm spices were much fresher even if they cost a bit more. Very cheap saffron!!

Stayed at Beyt al Chai which is right across the street from the Stone Town Serena. The building was an old tea house and kind of a funky place with original doors and a huge padlock on every room door. No chance of slipping quietly into your room in the middle of the night after a few cocktails! Beautifully carved wooden Zanzabari beds and the much needed a/c. The owners struggle with the building being classified as heritage limiting upgrades but Tom the manager was extremely kind and bent over backwards to get some laundry done for me at one of the other hotels. The restaurant on the main floor where you have your breakfast that comes with the room is fantastic and a little known gem in Stone Town. The fish casserole which was like a bouillabaisse was scrumptious! Ask for a better room rate and you’ll likely get one.

http://bluebayzanzibar.com/beyt-al-chai/index.php

The Serena and the Sunset Bar at the Africa House Hotel offer superb spots for watching the sunset and dhows sail by. The rooftop restaurant at 236 Hurumzi provides a worthwhile view of the city even when the 4 flights of very steep & high stairs remind you that your mid afternoon ice cream at the Tembo Hotel maybe should have been left for another day. The clouds that night made for a brief sunset but we were quickly rewarded with the full moon rising in the opposite sky which was clear. And hearing the call to prayer from all the 40 plus mosques in the city from up there was amazing!

Spent a day up north island in the fishing village of Nungwi taking in the dhow building, Natural Aquarium and a fish auction where every 15 minutes or so a local who couldn’t afford to pay would just take a fish or two and no one seemed to mind.

Could have missed Prison Island although the slightly scary boat ride there made up for the actual island being rather ho hum. 2 dolphins alongside our boat on the way back double made up for it!!!!

Loved touring around the quaint shops and narrow streets of old Stone Town, riding in a tuk tuk that narrowly missed the buildings and finding way too much incredible fabric.

Zanzibar really is just as exotic as it sounds.

https://picasaweb.google.com/111548005432555572965/ZanzibarW?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCM_VwNjOzsnVDQ&feat=directlink

wonderful trip report, kathy!

How would you compare you experiences in Kenya vs. Tanzania? If you only had limited time, would you choose one over another?

Kath: I will definitely do a trip report once back. And Sities will get her BC love pat!

Your Zanzibar photos look like postcards.

linjudy - I would go back to Kenya in a heartbeat.

Samburu was my absolute favourite, maybe because it was my 1st stop altho the landscape really spoke to me and that cheetah sighting was amazing.

Wildlife was much more plentiful in both Samburu & the Mara and I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Nairobi.

atravelynn - My focus was getting as many wall paper shots as possible.

Wall paper you got!

Love those Zanzibar pictures.

Did you sit outside in the open balcony at the Africa House ?

Yes I did Percy!

The bar was packed for the sunset and I ended up sitting with a large group of Avon reps from South Africa. No free samples but they were an absolute hoot!

After sunset tho most people left, I stayed right at that very table and enjoyed a delicious dinner of king prawns! Shoulda moved over to the houka lounge after to find out what that was all about.

KathBC

You know that this is where Livingstone and his buddies used to come for a drink before he went on his famous venture.!!!

The Africa House has been around a long time.

So you were in a historical place !!

Yes I did hear he hung out there. It seemed all of Stone Town was historical or famous for one thing for another.

Popped into a book/souvenir store to buy a map and when leaving saw the sign by the door saying Freddy Mercury was born in that very same building. Ok so he's not of the same calibre as Livingstone but jeez we're talking Queen here!!

I actually left my camera on the counter at this shop, only discovering this when already seated at the Serena, drink in hand and waiting for the sun to set. Time to take a photo and no camera in my handbag! Needless to say I was this close to hysterical! The lovely owner of Zanzibar Gallery who could have denied ever seeing the camera, held on to it saying he knew I would return. We caught him just as he was leaving for the day.

I will forever be grateful to him.

Just a quick note to say that I saw Lynn's note and checked your photos and LOVE them! Makes me want to return to Zanzibar!

I read here, but haven't posted much (or at all). Truly enjoyed your report and especially the photos of the people and surrounding areas. It is interesting to hear about a variety of things including mascara and nail polish. Your pictures both word and pixels are fun, unusual and informative. Loved your cow project. What a great idea. Hope it will be emulated by others.Thank you for letting me share your trip.

Plum

Great report and photos, KathBC! That spiral palm tree was hit by lightning, which caused it to grow that way.

ShayTay !!

Really !! it was hit by lightning.
I never knew that.

I also took a picture of it , but then I think almost everyone that goes on a Spice Tour must take a picture of it.

It is really an eye catching tree !


KathBC

Wow!! losing your camera with all those pictures on the memory card,

almost enough to give one a heart attack

Fantastic report, KathBC. Your enthusiasm is really infectious. Wonderful holiday, wonderful pictures and best of all, it sounds like you've become a true convert to the cause
Really enjoyed it - thanks for posting.

Hey thanks everyone! Glad others are enjoying my trip as much as I did!

ShayTay that palm was hit by lightning and survived??!! WOW!!

Yep Percy I almost did have a heart attack when the camera went missing!! Another reason to take many smaller (4gb) memory cards so at least you don't lose everything.

Kath, I just caught up with the TZ portion of your report--wonderful. Thank you so much for taking the time to write all this. I know it's not easy. Glad you had the kind of 1st-time safari that so many of us here have been fortunate enough to enjoy.

Now off to view the rest of your photos!

KathBC

You are right about taking a 4 Gig Memory card.

I spent the whole month of June in Eastern Europe and took two 8 Gig cards,( I never filled one
8 Gig card) when two 4 Gigs would have been better.

One fellow lost his camera, he was taking pictures like crazy and had a 16 Gig card in his camera.

Yes, we finally tracked the camera down to a restaurant we were at for lunch...but the thing is you are never sure of where you left ( lost) it.

I like your idea of smaller Gig Cards ( just bring more of them )!!!

Nairobi revisited (sorry this is so late Hanuman)

The notion of staying in an old English type manor where giraffes poke their heads thru the window and join you for breakfast sounded way too incredible to pass up. Yes Giraffe Manor is pricey but there were to be few if no regrets on this trip, even if it meant getting re-acquainted with Kraft Dinner for a while once back home.

I stumbled across Giraffe Manor after my safari dates were already booked so the only place I could fit it in was at the end. Some suggested a stay here would be best before the safari but although I saw plenty of giraffes in the bush none of them were interesting in sharing corn flakes with me so this experience was definitely unique.

With my plane arriving late from Zanzibar and wanting as close to 24 hours at the manor as possible, I booked 1 night at Macushla House which is right around the corner. Coming back to Macushla House was like coming home especially with Walter waiting at the door to welcome me. Dinner was with a guest from Colorado and another from California who not until halfway thru the meal I discovered was abranz from this very forum!!! What a lot of hooting and laughing went on after that chance discovery!! Hmmm by the way abranz haven’t seen your trip report and would love to hear how everything turned out for you.

Giraffe Manor picked me up the following morning at eleven and as we pulled into their drive way the stateliness & grandeur of the buildings and grounds felt just a tad intimidating. When seeing the formal dining room with its beautiful wood paneled walls and velvet curtains my mind quickly raced thru my safari wardrobe and wondered which one of the wrinkled & slightly stained pieces might be the least offensive to wear to dinner. Damn why didn’t I pack the organza! Gilles the wonderfully charming & witty resident manager assured me there was no need to worry even when I happily suggested perhaps something suitable could be put together using the mosquito netting in my room. Of course he was right as the stay was hilariously fun, very casual & relaxed, just all in a rather formal setting.

The manor really is magnificent and photos barely capture the splendour of the place. Stayed in Jock’s room on the 2nd floor corner which was the perfect height for a little early morning wake up from one of the twigas who came looking for pellets.

The manor provides a car & driver who will take you anywhere in the Karen area, I opted for a private tour of the Giraffe Centre. Yes I kissed a giraffe, not once but several times and am not afraid to admit I enjoyed it. Just not sure the giraffe did as evidenced in photo #17. Toooo funny!!

Breakfast with giraffes poking their heads thru all the large windows was positively magical and quite surreal. They are such majestic creatures bobbing their heads in and out never interested in your breakfast but rather the jars full of pellets provided by the manor. They even devoured bouquets of roses on the tables while the staff just turned a blind eye. What a joyful experience this was!

Kennedy picked me up after breakfast and with my flight leaving at midnight we drove out to Kiambethu Tea Farm about 40 minutes north of Nairobi. This is a great place to relax before the long flight home while strolling thru the forest and tea plantation. Then it’s one of Fiona’s fabulous buffet lunches, served on the lawn overlooking the Ngong Hills, made from fresh ingredients grown on the farm. Can’t remember the last time I had real farm churned butter! Fiona is such a warm & lovely hostess and I learned a lot about tea that day.

http://www.kiambethufarm.co.ke/index.html

After a drive to the Rift Valley escarpment, more shopping at my now favourite grocery store Nakumatt and a quick dinner at Ole Sereni, it was the 1st class lounge (so so) at the airport as the flight was delayed and the end of 24 positively incredible & glorious days in Africa that I’ll never forget.

https://picasaweb.google.com/111548005432555572965/NairobiRevisitedW?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCM-gqdiqhK7XHQ&feat=directlink


So now where in Africa do I go?

I love the giraffe's expression in photo 17, I am definately going to splurge on Giraffe Manor when I go to Kenya.

Great end to your report, KathBC! I remember getting whacked in the head by a giraffe on the feeding platform (think I startled him.) The tea plantation looks so inviting after spending time in Nairobi. I'll have to keep that in mind.

Now where? Lots of places from which to choose!

Wonderful report and photos. Thank you.

Sharon they did say the giraffe were prone to head butting so it probably wasn't anything you did.

Kennedy definitely knows the way to Kiambethu.

Oh dear, "what to wear to dinner?"

Mine was similar, but I had no choice as my bag with more than enough clean attire hadn't arrived. I had left my main duffle in NBO while I popped into Tanzania for a few days and though it was to be delivered to the Giraffe Manor, that day was a public holiday in Kenya, and so too was it for my bag, on holiday!

What to wear, other than the jeans and t-shirt I arrived in? Cute as I was with t-shirt advertising "Save the oceans, start with Phuket" - obviously moi, the world traveler - it's gonna be jeans and t-shirt, though the mossie nets could have been an option, if not my style!

So, there I am arriving in the lounge to join our hosts and the only other guests... two good looking guys in slacks and sports jackets... and me "miss sloppy!" No matter, once drink in hand, conversation and laughs under way, my attire was no longer an issue. Best though, the guys (a doctor and movie producer) live a few blocks from where I do in NYC and we've kept in touch since.

Only in Afree-kah, kiddies! Only in Afree-kah! You just go with the flow!

Sandi, really? Not the mosquito netting type???

And on the other end of the spectrum there was a fellow who turned up for dinner one evening in a tuxedo, took one look at everyone else's safari gear and quietly slipped out of the room and changed.

Seriously tho for those thinking of staying at Giraffe Manor it really is casual and very fun.

Still looking for suggestions for safari #2 sometime in 2013.

Ideas anyone?

Hahahahaha!! KathBC, I love this whole report, but that anecdote about the guy in the tux just killed me. Hilarious!

Having only been on one safari myself (the second is coming up next month -- wow!), I don't know how many suggestions I could give for safari #2. I know I'm already thinking longingly of a third, though, and there are a couple of ideas that have begun to percolate in my mind. My friends have called me a crazy person, but the idea of taking a swim in the Devil's Pool has grabbed hold of me more strongly than I could have imagined. Given that, I'm likely to be looking at safari activities that could be combined with a trip to Victoria Falls -- maybe something in Botswana or South Africa this time, depending on the timing.

That said, I'd also love to see Samburu and would be particularly eager to combine it with a gorilla trek or some such. Endless possibilities! You'll have to keep us posted on what you decide.

A tux! Guess he hadn't asked here on Fodor's beforehand

However, such attire could be appropriate if all others staying were part of the same group, celebrating something and agreed to "formal."

Even for weddings, haven't yet had a groom in a tux*, rather slacks and comfy shirt... bride in simple slip-type dress. Or those who decided to go with traditional tribal wedding attire, from colorful shirts, tops, loads and loads of necklaces and headpieces... the guys in Maasai wrap skirts; both being assisted in this dressing by the locals.

*some may have decided to go this route, but not my couples.

Safari #2... Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana?

Kath, maybe Raelond will be at Lynda's GTG in Sept....she has plans for her Zimbabwe safari all sewn up. You could talk to her about that as an option for safari #2.

KathBC,

I loved your report and photos - just finished looking at them for the second time.

I will be leaving for Kenya & Tanzania in 3 weeks - first safari for me, DH and another couple. We are all soooo excited.

Do you have any insights now that you have been - things you would have done differently? I'm mainly asking about trip preparation, things to pack or not, etc. I'm like you - mainly a wardrobe of jewel tones and black, but I have been able to dig some olive green and khaki pants out of the depths of my closet. Now to figure out what tops to put with them...

Your duffel looked really small in the photos - what size is it? And did you check it or carry it on?

Thanks for the great trip report!

--Kathy

Calo, interesting that you should bring up Zimbabwe as I was just reading a trip report on it as you were posting. Namibia is also appealing and so the research begins!

Kathy, boy do I ever wish it was me getting ready for Kenya & Tanzania in 3 weeks!! Lucky you!!

Can't think of anything I wished I had packed but in hindsight, for me anyway, since I wasn't really doing any walking in the bush I could have left the closed shoes at home. Seemed to wear my crocs flip flops everywhere.

Thin cotton scarf was a must and I could have done with 2 mainly cause I got a bit tired of the one since I wore it pretty much every day at one point or another.

All the extra ziploc bags in varying sizes came in handy as did some bubble wrap for a wooden elephant I brought home.

Here's the link for the duffel bag, the size was 1.1 kg (sorry for the metric measurements). I was surprised at how much it actually held and it was way too big for carry on.

http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Packs/DuffleBags/PRD~4000-984/mec-duffle-bag.jsp

Is your itinerary posted anywhere? You're going to have the time of your life and once you get there you'll wonder what all the stress in packing was about. The wonder of the animals and landscape will make none of that matter anymore.

Hi Kath,

Thanks for the reply. I know I'm needlessly stressing over the preparations - I suppose most people do on their first trip to Africa.

I haven't posted my itinerary anywhere - here it is:

2 nights - Nairobi - Fairview Hotel
1 night - Arusha - African Tulip Hotel
2 nights - Tarangire -Treetops Camp
1 night - Lake Manyara - Serena Lodge
2 nights - Ngorongoro Crater - Serena Lodge
2 nights - Central Serengeti - Mbuzi Mawe Camp
3 nights - Lake Naivasha - Chui Lodge
2 nights - Masai Mara - Explorer Camp
2 nights - Dar-es-Salaam - Royal Palm Hotel
1 night - Stonetown - Beyt al Chai
3 nights - Blue Bay Resort

I'm sure others would have allocated their time differently (2 days at Lake Naivasha may be too many, for example - but the bird watchers in our group wanted time to wander about.) I'll try to post a trip report upon our return.

--Kathy

Enjoy your trip, Kathy!

Kathy you'll have a great time!!

Give my regards to Tom the manager at Beyt al Chai and I'll watch for your report.

Tea, scheme, bring on the giraffes. Great report, loved it all. 3 more months until my first East African trip and I'm just wondering if I'll have as great a time as everyone else does?ut tBhen I usually have a great time. But gosh, every one does have the best time in Africa.