It is awesome did the High Atlas UltraMarathon there a couple of years ago not far from you.Climb Jbel Tobukal, the highest peak of Maghreb in the Atlas Mountains in Morocco.

trekinmorocco.com

Relax enjoy

The fundamental things

Will apply

As time goes by...

Wander the souks and then have dinner in the Jemma square-the food and atmosphere were so amazing that we ate there several nights!It truly is being in the center of things in Marrakesh and you will enjoy the people watching.Essaouria was our favorite city on our two week trip through Morroco last year due to the size,location on the ocean,fabulous restaurants and shopping along with great daytrips out of the city. Our family loved Morocco-enjoy!

qwovadis,

The High Atlas was one of the day trips I looked at for tomorrow but decided on going to Essaouria instead.

From "dutyfree's" post I don't think I'll regret my choice. Thanks for the tips

dutyfree,

Wow, Fodorites think alike

Earlier got lost, kinda in the souk. This evening had dinner at the outdoor stalls in Jemma Square and I am headed to Essaouria tomorrow.

So far, loving Morocco too!

I think that line is from Gone With the Wind - Atlanta not Casablanca
Instead you could say.... Of all the gins joints....

Cateyes555,

You are correct! Darn, I liked that line better. Haven't seen many gin joints around here, lots of dames tho..

If you are still in Essaouria,I would highly recommend enjoying the fish grills down at the harbor,possibly a hamman(sp?) in the old area;drive down south of the city to an unbelievable beach and have lunch;see the goats in the trees eating the aran nuts and buy any souvenirs as the prices are sooooo much better than the rest of Morocco!
You will probably realize after your first night in Essaouria why people like Cat Stevens and others made it there home for a few years many years ago-beautiful and a different side of Morocco.

dutyfree,

Ate on beach, restaurant down from Sofitel. Had grilled Merlan (Looked like sardines on steroids). Water was too cold for swimming without a wet suit. Enjoyed Essaouria much more than Marrakech. Still don't think the goats in the trees were real … so cool

Coming home with some Argan Oil … Enjoying it with warm bread for dipping sold me. I am glad I tasted it like that before I tried the roasted seeds, I think I still have the “funky taste” in my mouth

Casablanca is overrated. The city, I mean, not the movie. The movie is great!

Marrakech is a much more interesting city for a 1st time to Morocco. Essaouira is good too, but if I only had a few days to spend, I would concentrate on Marrakech. Hope you have a great trip!

Our family did just a daytrip stopover to Casablanca to see the big mosque but did not care for the city and were glad to go on to Rabat,Meknes and Fez.We spent two weeks driving in Morocco and had flown into Marrakesh for the start of the trip.We then drove over to the coast to Essaouira,up to El Jadida then to Casablance to Rabat to Fez back to Meknes and then back to Marrakesh.

wagslikeadog,

Did not make it to Casablanca but certainly agree with you about the movie.

Enjoyed Essaouria much better than Marrakech. Strolling the markets much more fun without all the hustling and haggling in Marrakech.

Wish it was more than a weekend trip. Read about some other towns on the flight back home that I would have loved to visit.

dutyfree,

Out of curiosity, what did a rental car cost for two weeks? Thought the radar check points that were clearly posted were interesting

Car rental is expensive in Morocco by North American standards. I went with a large, int'l company though, as I felt safer with a brand name. Now that I know people in Morocco, I would probably take a recommendation from them, which would be cheaper, I'm sure.

I haven't rented a car in Morocco since 2008, but I think it was about 600dh/day for a small, 4-cyl hatchback. Knowing how to drive stick is pretty much mandatory, as you won't find auto. Never had any problems with police and the driving (outside of Marrakech!) was easy and fun.

DBT traveler-we used Thrifty only because the rates were so much lower than Avis,Hertz,etc. I was hoping to get a automatic car but found that they are almost impossible to get in Morocco at ANY agency.I am trying to remember what we paid for the two weeks but it wasn't like unreasonable like Iceland. We ended up taking all of the insurance because of recommendations of the country-want to say something like their version of a mini van for around $1000? I had wanted to also have an agency that if we broke down they could come and help or swap off the car.Glad that you had a great trip!

Dutyfree,

Funny you should mention Iceland... It's next on my list although I know it can be expensive

Thinking of going to Morocco next year. Is it best to go on a guided tour or have a base and take days trips?

jayneLB,

I am pretty much an independent traveler and for the most part do all my trips that way. Getting to Marrakech was easy. From US, JFK-MAD then easyJet MAD-RAK.

I met others that found this was the least expensive way to get here. With advance booking, easyJet is about $30 one way excluding extra fees for baggage. It is a less than 2 hour flight from MAD. All total about 12hrs from JFK.

Royal Air Maroc has direct flight from JFK-CMN.

There are a lot of tour options for single or multi day trips from Marrakech in all directions. It would be easy and probably cheaper to arrange them once you are there.

Morocco is very easy to get around in. I would pick a few cities to base yourselves in for a couple days and then move on to another city for a few days.

We met our kids(who live in the UK) and flew Easy Jet from LGW to Marrakesh and Royal Air Maroc back to LGW.We had a private taxi van pick us up at Marrakesh and take us to our prebooked riad where we spent 3 days. When we left Marrakesh we went out to the airport there and picked up our rental car for the rest of the vacation-easy and convenient.

Because we went during high season with the Christmas holiday I did prebook several hotels before we left the states but booked some others after we were over there.Having done Egypt and Jordan the year before during the Christmas holidays, I selected Morocco due to the absence of their celebration of Christmas which worked out really well for us.(I have lost both my parents in the past couple years and did not want to be home during the Christmas holiday with all of the memories).
I think it is easier to rent a car and be able to see what you want and when you want on your own time without the constraints of bus or train schedules.The highways and side roads in Morocco are very easy to drive on and there are numerous gas stations and convenient stops on the main highway between Casablanca and Marrakesh.Just get a few guide books and a couple maps and you are good to go. Ironically we had loaded Morocco on our Tom Tom GPS but it did not work over there but it was very easy to navigate. Have fun!

Morocco, From The Airport To My Riad

Other than a scramble to fill out an Immigration Card, once inside the airport terminal, the no visa entry process into Morocco is fast and simple.

Just outside customs I exchange some dollars at 7.8 to 1 for the local currency, the dirham. Upstairs at the airport cafe for D$30 I purchase an internet card to find out what I have been missing for the last twelve hours. Absolutely, nothing.

From the cafe, I stop at the local information booth where I am told my hotel is somewhere in Old Medina and will be an adventure to find if I take a bus into town. I am up for the challenge and head for Bus No.19 at he far end of the terminal. It is only a D$20 fare compared to D$100 plus for a taxi.

The sounds of trotting carriage horses, beeping car horns, rumbling motorcycles, music and the hypnotic tunes of snake charmers fill the air as I approach the open market square. With no real love for snakes, I learn rather quickly to keep my distance from the snake charmers who think it is cute to put one around your neck for a few dirhams.

No thanks, I am fine without that experience.

Besides, the snake charmers there are other entertainers and vendors that would gladly free you of a few dirhams. Some worthwhile, others certainly not. A midget strolling with a violin is cute but his first note has my ears screaming for protection.

The scene here is a good introduction to Djemma El Fna, Square of The Dead, which I understand is even more interesting at night. Passing numerous fresh orange stands along with dates and nuts vendor I enter “The Souk” in search of my hotel.

I am now a rat in a maze looking for that elusive piece of cheese. The souk is a never ending connection of narrow streets and alley ways lined with all types of merchants. I have no doubt it was specifically designed that way to keep you trapped.

At one point, sensing my dilemma, a merchant offers to help me, well sort of help. He claims to be familiar with the area and I follow his lead although I am still lost as I do so. Eventually, we exit the souk and enter a narrow alley lined with tall sun blocking buildings. A turn here, a turn there, another here then there, finally I arrive at my riad (hotel).

A bit of haggling from D$50 to D$20 and my self appointed guide walks away disgusted and disappointed that I would not give him more dirhams for his help. My first experience with the common haggling process in Marrakech. The lesson learned is to set a price before you accept help or agree to any arrangement.

I feel a bit of guilt that soon vanishes as I am comforted that there are always winners and losers in the haggling process here. This time I think I won!


Video:
http://youtu.be/CKmJVilQgTk

Afternoon Stroll In Marrakech


Having found my hotel, I am 15-20lbs lighter as I head back into the souk. This time it is much easier navigating from the riad to Djemma Al Fna. It's about time for lunch and I pass some more interesting vendors in my search for Moroccan cuisine.

Want to have your teeth pulled or need a new set of dentures? Well, I just might have the right guy for you. You can have all your dental work done while scooters, horse carriages, monkeys and even snake charmers walk by.

On the perimeter of the square, I have a lunch of Moroccan salad (drenched in dressing), lamb tagine (lamb,vegetables and couscous), mint tea along with an almond pastry that sends my glucose level sky rocketing. About D$45 for lunch with free acrobatic entertainment in the background, I also get a chance to practice my Arabic language skills. What a deal! S ho-cran!

Leaving the restaurant there is now more activity in Djemma Al Fna than when I first arrive. Many of the locals are trying to drum up busy with the crowd and apparently at times this causes an altercation or two between them. I stand back and watch as an altercation takes place with the loser coming out of it with a bloody forehead in the process.

More snake charmers but nothing is for free. I have the give up a free dirhams to capture a picture or two even from a distance. Obviously, there is a good working relationship between the snake, a cobra and the charmer as both seem comfortable in a face to face photo opportunity. I hope the snake is getting a decent take of the profits.

Continuing my walk, I head towards Liberty Circle and then through a neighborhood along Mohammed Avenue. Along the way, views of the remaining wall from the old fortified city is impressive. It seems full of bullet holes but these are just holes that remain from the use of scaffolding.

Back near the main mosque arrangements are made for a day trip to Essaouira before another stroll through The Square of The Dead. The entertainment is still going on in full swings and the air is starting to take on an aroma that is driving my taste buds crazy.

Although I plan on dining later, I give in and sample some flat fried bread. Well, more like two samples. One just plain, another loaded with peppers and onions, delicious!

Video:
http://youtu.be/e_HgryvQAAA

Experiencing Ramadan In Marrakech

After a short evening rest at my riad, the call to evening prayers is being echoed across the city as I make my way back through the almost deserted souk.

Ramadan is the ninth month of the Islamic lunar a calendar and is very significant to Muslims around the world. It is a time of inner reflection that requires fasting from sunrise to sunset.

As the sunsets, Muslims break their daily fasting with a small meal and then most of them prepare to answer the call of evening prayers. As I enter Djemma Al Fna, droves of people are heading to the main mosque. The crowd is growing at the mosque into the thousands as readings and announcements continue to be broadcast over loud speakers.

Inside, the mosque is filled to capacity but there is a huge outside area where the faithful men and women are separated during prayers.

As an almost full moon hangs over a blacken sky, it is a sight to witness as thousands in unison observe an important tradition of their faith.

Video:
http://youtu.be/RTDRsb2xlB8

Hi all. I'm currently debating whether a 4 day trip (not including travel time) is worthwhile. Will be a single traveler, no access to rental car, and flying from seville into marrakech. People say that Essaouira is very much like Marrakech, but by the water and much less touting?

@DMBT thanks for your videos! How long were you in marrakech for? And did you make it out to Essaouira?

kaleidoscopik,

I think a 4 day trip would be fine. I was only there for 3 days and had a great time!

Several 1 day trips are available from Marrakech including Essaouria which I did.

Really enjoyed Essaouria, Nice to walk thru the markets without being hassled

Hi kaleidoscopik,

I wouldn't say that Essaouira is really like Marrakech at all, other than they both have walled medinas. They are a different colour; Ess is white & blue, whereas Marrakech is red/brown/pink. Ess is much smaller and cleaner, but you are right about Ess having less touting and is certainly more laid-back.