Mara frustration

Old Jul 15th, 2011, 10:17 AM
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Mara frustration

I know I will propably catch some flak for this comment, but I am frustrated with about the Mara. My visit is not during the migration, so I won't be seeking crossing points. There seem to be conflicting ideas about where is a "good" place to stay: in the reserve, on a conservancy, the Triangle or the Confluence, etc.

We have been very spoiled on past safari's where we have had over the top accomodations AND great game viewing. The Mara just doesnt seem to offer this. Even the best accomodations in the Mara are average, at best, compared to other places in Africa. The game viewing maybe fantastic but the fact that you cannot go off road, really is a big negative in my opinion. I know some people are not bothered by it, but I feel you just dont get the same experience unless you are up close and personal.

Should we just consider skipping the Mara and concentrate on other areas in Kenya?
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Old Jul 15th, 2011, 10:22 AM
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'Even the best accomodations in the Mara are average, at best, compared to other places in Africa'

what properties in the mara, and elsewhere in Africa are you basing this comparison on ?
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Old Jul 15th, 2011, 10:33 AM
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I have no complaints about the Mara accomodations.

Can you imagine what would happen if every Safari Tour Vehicle was able to go off the road.

I can just see the animals being chased or at least followed and followed .!

When man and wild animal come together , there has to be some rules.
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Old Jul 15th, 2011, 10:50 AM
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I've stayed at Governor's Il Moran in the Mara, and I'd hardly describe it as average. Great riverside location; personal and excellent service; and tent furnishings that were spectacular in their elegance and simplicity.

Don
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Old Jul 15th, 2011, 11:14 AM
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Ask for Samuel as your guide if you're staying at any of the Governors Camps. He's been there for many years and knows how to get you close. Also, the "no offroading" rule seems to vary according to where you are in the Mara.
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Old Jul 15th, 2011, 11:56 AM
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I am basing my comparions to other tented camps Mombo (Botswana)and Faru Faru in Tanzania and lodge properties Singita Boulders and Londolozi in SA.

Percy - I agree completely that if every vehicle went off road in a public park such as the Mara it would be a disaster for the animals. That is why we normally go to private concessions where the vehicles are limited. I just dont think you get the same experience when you cannot go off road and see the action up close.

Don - I would be interested in knowing what other camps you have stayed to base your comparison of Govenor's II Moran. Maybe I am not getting a correct impression of the facilites they offer.

ShayTay - are know there are private concessions outside the Mara. How do I find out where inside the Mara off roading is allowed?

Thanks everyone for your input. I really do appreciate it.
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Old Jul 15th, 2011, 12:18 PM
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kch246

Oh I agree ,I would like to go off road, but so would everyone else!

They have Wildlife Rangers patrolling to make sure vehicles do not go off road.

I had a private tour and my guide took me off road because he saw a nice Leopard low on an Acacia tree branch.

He said " get your camera ready , I am going to drive right under the tree ".

He did!...we took some really close up pictures, from about 10-15 feet away, ,then we scooted back to the road.

Yes, up closer and personal is better,... I don't think the animals would be too thrilled
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Old Jul 15th, 2011, 12:33 PM
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kch246,

I've stayed at Londolozi Tree Camp, and, except for the vehicles, I'd take Il Moran. I've stayed at too many places to list, but they include Shompole, Savuti, all of Kwando's Bots camps except Kwara and Tau Pan, Rekero, etc etc.

I'd certainly agree that it's all very much a question of personal preference in terms of features and amenities. I found Il Moran's tent interiors to be stunning, and I was completely blown away by Shompole's architectural brilliance, but I accept that others might not have much interest in those aspects. I had no particular use for Londolozi's plunge pools, but I know that others enjoy them. And some of the camps (Rekero, most Kwando camps) have more or less nondescript facilities but unmatched guiding and location.

Don
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Old Jul 15th, 2011, 12:34 PM
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Well then, if looking for such hi-end properties as those you mention, there's:

Cottar's 1920s
Olonana
Bateleur
Mara Plains
Saruni Mara
Explorer
Olarro
... all located in different areas, some within the Reserve (Explorer), some adjacent to Triangle (Olonana, Bateleur), on private conservancy (Mara Plains, Saruni Mara, Olarro). I'm certainly missing some.

However, I would not compare these to Mombo, Faru Faru and certainly not Singita or Londolozi, these latter two being permanent cottages and as large as some NYC apartments. Faru Faru is a Singita property, even with a/c in their tents... ugh! And, Mombo is the best camp in Botswana.

So this isn't apples-to-apples, in the Mara.

However, there are still more luxe properties elsewhere in Kenya that are outstanding... such as in Laikipia (Loisaba, Ol Malo) and Samburu (Saruni or SaSaab), Lewa (Borana, Wilderness, Lewa House) and even Meru (Elsa's Kopje was voted "best" in Africa last year). Down south there's Shompole, not as much game, but luxe and different...which was good enough for Bill Gates.

Besides, if you won't be there during migration and want "off-roading" you may want to consider elsewhere in Kenya. Believe me there's game everywhere, especially up north with species you will not find in Botswana, South Africa and even Tanzania.
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Old Jul 15th, 2011, 01:58 PM
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Mara Plains Camp is supposed to be good. In the Mara, it seems that some guides know where it's possible to go off-road, despite the rules. I don't necessarily condone that, but that's what I saw.
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Old Jul 15th, 2011, 10:38 PM
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don't think that many camps in the Mara charge the rates of Mombo, Faru Faru or Singita so perhaps not really fair to expect the same levela of lux.

I think in the Mara the issue of no off roading is a bit of a red herring. You will get as close as you could possibly want to the the animals that is for sure. I've been frustrated in the serengeti for not being able to get as close as I would want to but never in the mara.
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Old Jul 16th, 2011, 05:58 AM
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You certainly can get that personalized experience in the private conservancies surrounding the Mara - off roading, limited vehicles, great personalized service etc etc.,

FYI - go to the reserve off the main migration months, and there's hardly many visitors on the ground with stunning game viewing to add.......

For the in-camp experience, i'm sure there are many places in the Mara that can match your needs, I'm sure others here will be able to point you in the right direction.
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Old Jul 16th, 2011, 07:05 AM
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You can't go off road but there are so many roads as well as tracks that you will rarely be impeded.

Serian has a more secluded bush camp that might meet your expectations. But it is not that fancy, if I recall correctly from the comments of others.

If you mention to your operators up front and with ample planning time that you'd like "over the top" amenities at your lodging, and you are willing to pay for it, I bet they could oblige you. I can envision they would have the spirits on hand that you request along numerous private bush dinners with your favorite menu items. You might be able to get additional staff assigned to your tent/room for personal service. Perhaps you could dine privately with the managers some nights. Daily flora arrangments in your room...After shower-robes and special towels and/or sheets could be made provided to you...Special drinks and snacks in the vehicle. Probably lots of things I have not even thought of that are included for high end VIP clients who are willing to pay a premium for these amenities.

Those little extras could further elevate the status of some of the properties mentioned above.

For the right price, you should be able to get exactly the experience you want--except for driving up to animals in a park that does not allow it.
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Old Jul 16th, 2011, 07:31 AM
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After my posting yesterday, I realized, as africa_fan mentions... the prices at those you've previously visited are also priced almost twice (if not more) that of what you'll find in the Mara or elsewhere in Kenya. Few properties in Kenya are priced over $1,000/person/nt, if that...where $1,500-2,000/person/nt is quite usual at Singita, Mombo, Londolozi, etc.

As atravelynn mentions, if you want "extra extras" be specific in your request; they'll be provided, at a price of course.

Even with "no off-roading" in many areas, more often than not you'll find game close enough you could "reach-out-and-touch" which isn't a good idea, of course.

As often as I've come upon a pack of ellees who automatically protect the little ones, I've had some walk right past the vehicle; or a leopard sitting alone with not another vehicle for miles; vervet monkeys who joined me for breakfast after trying to steal the biscuits from inside my tent; entire hyrax families frolicking in/around my room without a care; pride of lions right besides the vehicle or waiting for us right outside the dining area; even cheetah who have chosen to sit on our vehicle. Game will come as close as they feel it's safe for them. And, you'll have lots of great photo ops.
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Old Jul 16th, 2011, 11:48 AM
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As you are finding out, safaris in East Africa are rather different from those in Southern Africa- accommodations are not nearly as plush and off-roading is limited.

I have found safaris in Southern Africa to be more my style thus far and that's why so many of my trips have focused on that region.

You'll have to adjust your expectations accordingly and take advantage of what East Africa has to offer (e.g. landscapes) or you will end up disappointed.
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Old Jul 17th, 2011, 05:11 AM
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Thank you everyone for your replies. The cost of accomodations in Kenya whether in the Mara or elsewhere is certainly substantially less than other places we have visited which is a big plus.

Certainly game viewing and the overwhelming beauty of Africa is why we are all drawn there in first place. I will keep that in mind and not focus so much about a room.

Africa never disappoints me!
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Old Jul 17th, 2011, 07:10 AM
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kch26 -

You're on the right path. As long as you realize that even actual safaris in the Southern African countries are different, as well the accommodation options (Mombo/BOT isn't Londolozi/SA, nor Singita/SA and Faru Faru/TZ) will be different than those in East Africa, you'll do just fine.

Some other lovely options in Kenya, could be in the Chyulu Hills of Tsavo West (the largest reserve that it had to be divided into East and West), would be Ol Donyo where you can also do horseback riding, and Kampi ya Kambo. While at Tsavo East, there's Galdessa. So you've got lots of choices.

I'm sure you'll choose well and have great experiences.
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Old Jul 20th, 2011, 09:40 AM
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We did Tanzania and Kenya on a 2week safari. The Masai Mara was easily the best of the tours. We stayed at the Ngerende island lodge. I think they had 7 or so tents. Was fabulous, certainly as good or better than the Serena Kiirawira tents, which I also thought was magnificent. You will love the Masai Mara!
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Old Jul 20th, 2011, 11:06 AM
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Sounds like you've really got to decide what you want....I also like going to the best camps but, for me, the location comes first and then I see what is available. Otherwise I may as well stay at the Dorchester here in London ! To go to Kenya and miss the MM would be criminal in my opinion !

If you want to go off road and luxury I would recommend Cottars)(South East of the MM reserve) - its really out in the wilderness and about half the Londolozi cost. The accomodation at Royal Mara ia also very good and in a different area (North of the resrve) where you can also go off road.

I cant comment on Botswana (hopefully my next trip) but, in my opinion, Kenya (inc the MM) is a lot 'wilder' than the SA concessions if you choose camps carefully. I like SA a lot but dont like the fact that you have to stop following animals when they cross into a neighbouring concession. Density of game is massively higher in the MM than SA.
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Old Jul 20th, 2011, 11:58 AM
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For me "frustration in the Mara" was trying to get a couple that were lounging at a poolside cabana to notice the very relaxed bushbuck nearby and being ignored like I was a demanding hawker who was invading their space.
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