Very interesting Johan, thanks. Some lovely landscapes and you prove that being in the wilderness is wonderful even when sightings are hard to find. I remember the wonderful photo of the many many elephants taken on your trip last year. Don't remember whether it was yours or Jochen's.

Thanks! A Massons mobile is still on my "to do" list.

Hi Johan,

Thanks for sharing this wonderful report along with all of your assortment of photos. Can't wait to meet Ewan in person!

Regards,
Hari

Great report Johan and pics.

I certainly believe your oryx sighting even without photographic proof. Your night time safari activities are as exciting as the daytime with all the lion roars. Great sunsets/landscapes and even the viewing platform/hide is beautiful. I love ground hornbills!

Massons is consistently a good choice regardless of the conditions.

Oh, and your elephant herd in the perfect light for a perfect picture--great photo.

Thanks everyone for your lovely comments.

Although I try to photograph a lot of my sightings, there is so much more which will make a trip unforgettable than good photos.

And in August, it must have been the activity at night, the ability to drive around in Chobe (which most people only associate with the riverfront) for 4 days without seeing anyone else and the transformations in the different eco-systems.

The second part of the report will follow soon.

Greetz,

Johan

Hello everyone,

My stay at Savute: http://www.aardvarktravel.net/chat/viewtopic.php?p=161932#161932

Ciao,

J.

Hi Johan

Enjoying your report and photos very much, very interesting to hear your impressions 2009 versus 2008, and learning more about the lesser-known Chobe forest area. I've had my map out to follow your route and associate the photos with the area, and was wondering if you could clarify that the Nogatsaa & Tchinga campsites are HATAB only? (you make a ref to 4 HATAB campsites in Savute, but I can see just 2 in that area, and my map doesn't specify that they are private). Ewan may not thank you for making the area sound so attractive to us self-drivers!

I would be interested to know if Ewan made any comments about the proposed new regulations to clamp down on self-drivers - maybe as a professional he welcomes a change, since "Complaints have been heard from the mobile sector that self-drive tourists allegedly have no respect for the environment in places such as the Moremi Game Reserve" (Ngami Times editorial). As a self-driver I would obviously say that isn't the case, and we've seen more guides with clients going off-road and driving up far too close to game than any of the self-drivers we came across.

Looking forward to the Moremi section too. Have you seen this website http://moremi.earth-touch.com/ which follows a pride of lions in the Xakanaxa area, I enjoyed reading about the same lions we probably saw ourselves as well as the other animal goings-on.

I agree that it's not just the photos that make the trip, but the scenery and sounds of the wilderness - our most memorable moments were at night when lions, hyaenas and elephants were walking just meters from our tent- we couldn't photograph them but the memory is there!

Thanks for taking the time to write a report.

Skimmer, lovely elephant photos enjoying the water. What a contrast to recent photos of the drought effected elephants in Samburu and other Kenyan areas. Feast or famine.

I really liked the photo of the Secretary bird in the tree, mine have always been on the ground.

Tockoloshe,

Johan and I know Earth Touch, yes. We've seen them at work the previous time Johan was there with Ewan (and me).

In fact, we had a fun thing happen before our eyes. A pride of lions was following a herd of buffalo, so we drove ahead and ended up somewhere where we could see both. The hunt wasn't really on yet, but it was clear the lions were up to something; they were definitely not planning on sitting on their asses.
A video team from Earth Touch ended up on the opposite side. Both of us kept a fair distance as to not disturb the lions. Then another vehicle popped up, one from the lodges. The guide positioned himself RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE of lions and buffalo. As a result the lions stopped chasing the buffalo.
Then, the guide let a male lion fall asleep in the shade of his jeep. As such, that is not sooo bad perhaps, but he obviously did not tell his clients how to behave when lions are near. At one time the lion looked up to the (open) jeep as he clearly wanted to know what the commotion was all about. Then he clearly saw that the jeep was not a creature as such, but that he could see creatures inside. He fixed his eyes on a woman, and in turn, the woman froze as well. This whole thing was SO CLOSE to becoming very ugly, and their guide had not even seen it; he was dozing off behind his steering wheel, looking the other side.

I'm mentioning this as you wanted to know what Ewan thinks about the plans to allow less self-drives. I assume he'd say; "why not look at all those rookie guides of the lodges? They are perhaps more of a problem than us"

Ciao,

J.

Lovely piece on Savute, Johan. I did have a smile when I read the "radio controlled game drive" reference in your report.

Regards
Hari

PS: I don't think I've seen the red-necked falcon before. Very pretty!

Thanks all again.

There is a BOGA campsite close to Nogatsaa (http://boga-bw.com/camps.html). I also mentioned it in my trip report as we were tracking lions in that area.

There were plans to build a lodge in the area but for certain reasons the project was postponed. I agree that it is an attractive area but for most of the year I would only recommend it for "old hands". It's also mentioned in the Bradt travel guide but you seldom read something about in on travel websites.


From what I heard there are 4 HATAB campsites around Savute. Here is what I found on the web: (http://www.jacanaent.com/PDFs/GPSList.pdf)

I can't speak for Ewan but I can give you my opinion:

For example the area between Xakanaka and Third bridge is overutilised as there are so many facilities and camps around. The fact that some of the roads can't be used nowadays, makes the area that vehicles can cover even smaller. Especially as so many people are focused on "predators" - most of the "cat" sightings are useless in terms of photography there. You can compare this with what's happenning between Kasane and Serondela.

I had a fantastic time at Xakanaka (you read more about it in my last chapter).

Obviously self-drive people are not the only ones responsible for all of this (it's actually a combination of different factors). I am not going to discuss this in full detail right now.

Off-roading: for me it's simple - people take chances if they think they can get away with it -it happens and no one has the monopoly on it.

I am pretty sure when they raise the entrance fees in the national parks, some people lobbied for it. Botswana has to decide for itself what future it sees for its safari industry and we as individuals would maybe not like it but at the end we have to live with the new rules and regulations.

Most secretarybirds I saw where just walking but you now the saying: the more time you spend on safari the more luckier you get.

Radio-controlled game drives are not really my kind of fun and as I said, most of my best photographs were taken when we found the animals first.

Also on this trip, I saw the "Xakanaka pride". The website you mention is great to watch.

Cheers,

Johan

Hi again,

I finally made it to Moremi: http://www.aardvarktravel.net/chat/viewtopic.php?p=162184#162184

Greetz,

Johan

Love the birds. A secretary bird nesting is a rare sight. You were perfectly positioned for the eles in the water. Waiting for the next Moremi chapter.

Thanks for the trip report, and your wonderful photos.

Th bird photos in particular are amazing.

I had my first Safari to Botswana and while I felt I had a most wonderful time, it is interesting to not your comments as well as others who have previosly been there not the effect of the water in the area.

Thanks for posting.

amy

Thanks again,

Flood levels and the rains in June had a major impact on this safari. If we keep having a similar amount of rainfall in the next couple of years in the Angolean highlands, some of the permanent camps in the delta will face serious problems and some areas in the national parks will be inaccessible during parts of the year.

It was a successfull safari but we had to work harder to see game compared to previous trips.

Timing and choosing your areas will be even more important and out of a client's perspective (having the best possible gameviewing) it's utterly insane to book far in advance as you don't know what the weather conditions will have been in the summer prior to your safari.

Good advice on booking. In the past we could take for granted that a certain time of year meant relatively good conditions. It's more of a wait and see situation now.

Unpredictable delta conditions may offer opportunities elsewhere that had not existed before.

You certainly made the best of your situation, water levels, and wildlife. Some unique and beautiful images.

Interesting in many ways: my stay at Bodumatau

http://www.aardvarktravel.net/chat/viewtopic.php?t=42719

Johan

Will we see any of those "tame African Hoopoes"?

3 leopards? Must have been a mom and cubs or a female with 2 suitors?

Knowing the fate of the adorable sand grouse chick does not make it any less cute, but makes me feel bad.

Do I congratulate you or offer pity for having the noisiest night in the bush?

Lynn,

Unfortunately the hoopoes won't make any appearance here.

3 leopards: it was a female and a cub accompanied by a male. An unusual sighting I have to say.

You can congratulate me now but offer pity for what's still waiting for me at Xakanaka.

Cheers,

Johan

OK, congratulations and here is a question.

With the unpredictable weather making advance reservations less desirable, what do you think about showing up in Maun and heading to the Wilderness or Kwando (or maybe another company) office and seeing what's available for the next x # of days or weeks? That would be for one person. I realize a group would have trouble getting lots of beds.

Lynn,

If you are extremely keen to visit a specific area, it's not really an option to take into consideration.

On the other hand, if you are happy with what you can get (I guess you have plenty of camps to choose from), it will save you money and you know by then which places to go to or not.
A lot of people actually don't dare to travel this way ...

http://moremi.earth-touch.com/ -> it's already raining right now -> actually I told Hari that I expected some early rains this year given the fact that in August clouds were already building up.

I got the feeling that Northern Botswana is becoming less interesting to go on safari as Southern Africa is going through a wetter cycle and gameviewing won't be on par with what one experiences in drier years because a lot of areas will be impassable and game will be spread out. I don't say you can't have great experiences but they will be less frequent.

Greetz,

Johan

A wonderful trip report and excellent photos!

Your report - besides the one robin wrote about her selfdrive safari in Kenya/Tanzania- makes me think about a mobile safari as I feel I now would appreciate a safari which offers something else besides rather "predictable" game drives when staying at a camp or lodge.

The link Tockoloshe provided offers awesome insights in to an area/life which usually can be experienced only for a very short time.

Thanks to both of you.

SV

Great report! Thank you! Your experiences are very valuable and should be tagged as a reference for planning Botswana safaris. It is refreshing because so many Botswana posts here and on Tripadvisor are from USA and UK people trying to sell safaris rather than doing safaris.

SV and towncountry,

Very much appreciated you liked my report.

I just wanted to share some of my experiences/knowledge on mobile safaris in Northern Botswana here.

Greetz,

Johan

Before posting the last part I added a list of mammals/birds I saw on this trip:

http://www.aardvarktravel.net/chat/viewtopic.php?t=42719

Before the safari I made a list of mammals/birds I thought I was going to see and I only missed one mammal and eight birds (out of a list of 100). So I am pretty satisfied.

Johan

Making a wishlist normally is the best way to get disappointed.....

You did pretty well!

SV

Darn scrub hare.

Thank you for the great report and photos. Some day I'd like to try the strategy of just showing up. Thanks for your comments on that.

Thanks for your report. I really enjoy the way that you write - makes me feel as though I'm back on safari!

Thanks Skimmer for your valuable feedback. Atravelynn, Please consider the following, should you decide to just show up -:
1. High season (Jun - Oct) - the camps will be fully booked, which means you would end up takinig whatever is availabe and sometimes these camps does not complement each other.
yes you could get plenty of choices on low season, but with minimal experience.
2. Good thing is that there is a possibility of getting a last minute rate, which is only perfect when you are with a partner NOT travelling alone - A single surcharge would apply, even for a seat on charter. Would advise to come with a friend or someone, so that you avoid those surchages.

I read that some fox have a concern about self driving in Botswana because of lack of control in the parks. Campsites within the national parks and game drives are being privatised and hopefully the awarded individuals would take over end of this year, which means there would be a good controlling system.

Thanks again.

It seems that Botswana is adapting its policy. For people familiar with the safari industry in the delta and its surroundings, there is need for improvement on different levels.

Interesting times ... to say at least.

Best regards,

Johan

All good things come to an end.

Final leg of my trip - my stay at Xakanaka

http://www.aardvarktravel.net/chat/viewtopic.php?p=162570#162570


Hope you liked reading my report - anyway I surely did enjoy my safari.

Till the next adventure.

Johan

Hi Skimmer,

Zeer interessant verslag, ,wel geïllustreerd.
Niets is beter, denk ik, dan een "mobile safari".

Cheers

Mike

Johan,
The calling fish eagle is amazing both for your photographic skills and its neck flexibility. Sorry you took ill and hope it did not last long. At least it was near the end of the trip.

Since you had some negative experiences in Xakanaka, what would you suggest others do when considering a mobile? Avoid it, minimize the time there, replace it with another location? That's assuming you think the traffic is typical of your stay.

Despite the downfalls of Xakanaka and the wet conditions that make wildlife viewing tough, you have some tremendous images. If water on the ground was not problem enough, you almost lost out on an owl due to water from the shower. Good thing the owl was patient.

Such good results with less than optimal conditions is a testament to good guiding and to the quality of Africa as a destination.

You mention the "next adventure." Care to give us a clue?

Messiah,
Thanks for the response to my idea of just showing up in Maun. I was trying to use the solo status to my advantage. But it seems according to your comments, even last minute if you are just one, you are at a disadvantage.

"Jun-Oct camps are fully booked"--From my experience not every camp is 100% full 100% of the time. There is almost always room for 1. Maybe not at Mombo, but other places. Being just one seemed to allow me to slip in more easily.

"Camps not complimenting each other"--That is a absolutely possibility so I'd have to go in with no preconceived notions or lists of animals.

"More choices low season"--I've considered that timeframe too and realize that wildlife is not as abundant. If less wildlife is the expectation, then I would not have to see it as a minimal experience. But I do wonder if the already discounted green season rates would go no lower as a last minute booking. I'm wondering if the last minute discount would be more ample in high season because the rates are already jacked up. There also would be more charters flying around in high season, offering more possibilities in high season.

"single surcharge for plane seat"--That's interesting because I did not know I paid more for one seat on a plane than someone in a party of two or more. Unless I chartered the whole plane, I thought my seat would not be more simply because I am only one person. My thinking was there'd likely by ONE seat available on most planes, even if not more, and I'd pay the cost of taking up one seat.

I also thought, perhaps erroneously, that I might avoid some of the single supplement, if I book last minute because the room would sit empty without me.

Good points to consider. As for traveling with a friend if past performance is an indication of future results, I'll probably be going solo most of the time. I have had little success finding friends willing to make the tremendous financial sacrifice it takes for this kind of travel. But you never know.

Thanks for all these points to ponder.

The area around Xakanaka/Third bridge will always be busy ... you can still have a good time there if you decide not to respond to cat sightings ... Guides that know Moremi like the back of their hand, always find places to avoid the crowd.

To be honest, in the coming years I would skip Moremi during middle of winter if we experience similar floods/rains like this year because of the reasons I mentioned in my trip report. As I have a very flexible scheme to travel, trips to Northern Botswana will be planned last minute.

http://moremi.earth-touch.com/ Once again, these rains will have a massive impact at most places for safaris in October/November 2009.

There were plenty of photo opportunities on this safari, so I had a very good time.

If other people had joined me on safari during this time of year, I would have probably done the following:

- 5 days Moremi (one night camping near Godikwe lagoon);
- 2 days Savute;
- 3 days Chobe riverfront;
- 3 days Savuti/Lagoon;
- 3 days Chitabe.

I have plenty of things in mind but haven't made a decision what I am going to do next.

Best regards,

Johan

Johan

Thanks for your your report and comments (I'm a bit late catching up!) Thoroughly enjoyed it and your photos. The night noises & activity are one of the things I loved about Moremi,though I didn't always appreciate it a the time. I wouldn't like folks who've never been to think that Moremi is bumper to bumper vehicles, ("The area around Xakanaka/Third bridge will always be busy ... you can still have a good time there if you decide not to respond to cat sightings ... Guides that know Moremi like the back of their hand, always find places to avoid the crowd.) ... we never found many vehicles in the area around Xakanaka/Third bridge when we visited in May and August, both supposedly busy times, the area is so vast it's easy to keep away from people, and we have never encountered a 'crowd'. On the other hand, if people don't go because they think it's so busy we might get bookings more easily, especially with the new fees ....

"I am pretty sure when they raise the entrance fees in the national parks, some people lobbied for it. Botswana has to decide for itself what future it sees for its safari industry and we as individuals would maybe not like it but at the end we have to live with the new rules and regulations".

This comment is not directed at you, just wanted to say I'm all for living with rules and regulations but I'm not sure that just because some people can afford to pay more they are more responsible safari-goers/drivers, I can't see that raising campsite and park fees will solve the problems, but as you say it's for Botswana to decide (sorry but just reeling from the confirmed campsite increases)

messiah
"Campsites within the national parks and game drives are being privatised and hopefully the awarded individuals would take over end of this year, which means there would be a good controlling system."

Privatisation maybe good, just announced camping fees of U$50 pppn (+290 pula in park fes)for Savuti not so good!

Tockoloshe,

I am glad you liked my trip report.

Something more about my experiences around Xakanaka:

All the cat sightings I had in between Xakanaka and third bridge, there were plenty of vehicles around ... as everyone is asking each other where the lions, ... are. Funny, with the dogs, we were the only people around.

On this recent trip, it was not unusual to come across more than 25 vehicles on a drive around Xakanaka. In this part of Moremi, one can easily drive up to Xini or Bodumatau ... but some people don't know that and a lot of the lodge vehicles don't drive up there unless they go for an all-day drive. As the current water levels narrowed the roads substantially, it was even more of a problem this year. To give you an example: while watching baboons playing, we had several vehicles asking us if we were watching a leopard because they thought that if a vehicle stands still for such a long time there must be something special ...

The same problem exists in the private areas where the guides also have to show the clients the same animals (otherwise some of them are going to be pissed because they didn't see the lion sleeping ...) (the difference there is that with the limited number of vehicles allowed at a sighting, you can miss it because there are already X cars around). This is especially a problem with areas which have different camps around ...

Prices and campsites:

We all have to see what will be the effect of this measure. I am also not sure if it will solve the problem entirely ... as there are also other urgent matters that have to take into account. Don't ask me to sum them up here ...

Best regards,

Johan

Thanks for the itinerary info.

Hi,

You sound like you know what you are talking about...so...can I ask you and anyone else some advice...I am planning to visit Maun in a weeks time...I am staying at the Audi Camp but need to plan my safari's.

I wanted to take in a mokoro trip but also visit Chobe....can anyone recommend a tour company that I can contact that isn't going to cost the earth...trouble is...I need catering as I won't have my own camping gear!

Also, any hints on what the weather will be like and clothing I should take?

Thanks loads for any HELP!!

Hi there,

Have a look at the following:

http://www.okavangocamp.com/audi-camp.htm

Your best plan is to ask them what's still on offer given the fact that you'll be there in a week.

http://www.weather-forecast.com/locations/Maun/forecasts/latest

Regards,

Johan