Late August Cape Town/Safari/Vic Falls Advice Wanted

Old Jan 22nd, 2017, 10:57 AM
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Late August Cape Town/Safari/Vic Falls Advice Wanted

We are planning first trip to South Africa for late August. We are thinking 3 nights in Cape Town, 0-2 nights in Wine Country (??), 3 nights in Luxury Safari (Singita/Mala Mala/Ulusaba/Londolozi??) and potentially end up at Victoria Falls (??). The question marks represent embedded questions i would appreciate any and all advice on. My perception is that while late August is a wonderful time for Safari but not so wonderful (weather wise) for wine country. Is it worth spending a day or two in Franschhoek Valley that time of year or save for another time? As reflected in the illustrative names above, we are willing to spend some dough for the best first safari experience. We want to see game, but we also want to eat and drink very well. But we don't want to stay at the Four Seasons while on safari, we want to know we are in Africa. My sense is that the combo of luxury and authenticity exists more in Kenya than South Africa, and that Royal Malewane (already sold out our dates) does it well, any suggestions from the list above or others in the area? Finally, i have a question mark by Victoria Falls as i worry the falls may be so dry in late August it may not be worth the trip and should save for another day. And while i do not have recent information, perhaps the draught of the past few years may make that even more relevant. I have rambled a bit and appreciate any thoughts from those in the know. Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 22nd, 2017, 11:07 AM
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How much time you have in Africa in total? With what seems like limited time I would just try to visit Cape Town and go on safari. Cape Town is worth at least 4 nights, but 4-5 on safari IMO is minimal. You do not seem to have enough time for the Winelands and Victoria Falls.
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Old Jan 22nd, 2017, 11:32 AM
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We actually have some flexibility on time, so if Wine Country and Vic Falls worthwhile we can probably make it work. On the other hand we are young enough that i suspect (but one never can be sure!) we will have another opportunity to return no need to force ourselves to do everything this time.
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Old Jan 22nd, 2017, 12:55 PM
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Hi Rich,

Your ideas so far are pretty solid. I have been to Africa over 39 times on safari and been to every lodge you mentioned. I don’t think Ulusaba is in the same luxury category as the other ones you mentioned because it is in the western sector of the Sabi Sands and shares a game drive area with five other commercial safari lodges. The human (guest) density in that area is more than double that of MalaMala. Singita, Londolozi, and MalaMala are all in a “line” west to east and the Sand River flows from Singita, through Londolozi and finally through MalaMala into the Park. This valley is the best leopard habitat in southern Africa in my experience. Only MalaMala is interior to the ecosystem with no fence on any of its boundaries. I am a big fan of Rattrays but I also like Singita Boulders and Ebony. One other place you might want to consider is the newly renovated (torn down and rebuilt) Lion Sands Ivory Lodge. I am taking my wife here on my next trip and I am super excited to see what it looks like since my last visit. A nice “sleeper” is Tintswalo which is north of MalaMala.

Your concerns about weather are not unfounded. The weather improves rapidly in August and September. So, I still think you should go there but do it at the end to maximize the odds. The Western Cape comes to life in September and everything blooms. Perhaps consider the winelands like Bordeaux in May. There will be flowers but no grapes on the vines and probably not any leaves either. Since you like food and wine, then you probably know the wine you drink will not have any relation to the harvest time. They probably bottle in June but I am not so familiar with the southern hemisphere process (France and California often bottle in November I think). The southern right whales will be calving off the shores of Hermanus so you can consider this a bonus. Of course, if you still include Victoria Falls, you may need Cape Town in the middle to prevent an overnight in Johannesburg mid-trip.

I don’t recommend Vic Falls unless you are doing another safari in that region which I highly recommend. And, as you noted, there will be very little water flowing and very little mist. BUT, the wild card is they are getting very good rains in Southern Africa right now! There is an excellent park called Hwange near Victoria Falls and August 15-September 15 is the peak of peak season there. Check out Linkwasha Camp! I love it there. Another super luxury option would be Singita Pamushana in Zimbabwe. You can fly there twice a week from Jo’burg and then, one per week starting on May 1, 2017 there is a flight from Pamushana to Vitoria Falls. If you timed the trip right you could do this and then head to South Africa for more. The flight from Victoria Falls to Kruger becomes daily on June 13 so you could connect the two but you will need to cross the border to Zambia to catch the flight. No big deal but you miss most or all of your afternoon game drive on the day you arrive on safari in the Kruger.

If you don't mind missing rhino, you could do your only safari in Zimbabwe. Or, if you want the big five, you could do a single lodge safari at Mombo or Chief's Camp in Botswana then head to Vic Falls then Cape Town. That would be a very seamless trip.

Craig Beal – owner – Travel Beyond
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Old Jan 22nd, 2017, 02:12 PM
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I included the Cape Winelands and Victoria Falls during my first visit to Africa last year. I spent 5 nights in Cape Town, 3 in the Winelands, 4 at Sabi Sands, 2 at Victoria Falls, and 3 at Chobe NP. If I were to do it again, I would spend 2 nights in the Winelands and add the extra night to Sabi Sands. Whether these places are worthwhile depends on your interests. I enjoyed the Winelands not just for the wines but the food, the scenery, and the hiking. And I really like waterfalls so Victoria was a no-brainer. If you like you can click on my user name for my trip report from last year, which may give you more information on some of these destinations.
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Old Jan 22nd, 2017, 03:40 PM
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August this year? Availability is pretty limited so be flexible. It's also not the best time to visit Vic Falls - if normal rainfall (and there's been a long term drought) it could be quite low water flow. It's not that spectacular in low water.

To avoid lots of transfers through JNB, land at JNB and go to VF - VFA or LVI depending on schedule, time. Head for Chobe NP. If available, the houseboat experiences are excellent. Stay 2 nights (3 if you prefer) and get a transfer to VF. I like the Victoria Falls Hotel - it's adjacent to the falls so you can go see them a few times if you choose to. Early morning and dusk are nice. Maybe do a sunset cruise.

From LVI, there's a nonstop flight to Cape Town. I thought 4 nights was more than enough with a day trip to the winelands. We are safari people so spend as much time in game reserves as possible. Everyone has different needs for holidays.

Get a nonstop flight to Skukuza, Hoedspruit or Nelspruit - whichever airport is nearest your lodge. They will arrange a transfer. All of the lodges mentioned are very nice - you pay for luxuries, not better game viewing. I like a water hole or river in camp so you can see wildlife between game drives. Some of our best sightings have been while sitting on our porch or deck sipping a nice drink of choice before our afternoon game drive... Oh, don't miss game drives! If you will get to your lodge after the afternoon game drive, change the plan. That makes an expensive night even more expensive!! Mala Mala has a very good reputation for game viewing. In addition to above, I'd look at Kirkmans Camp. It's very nice and the river runs through their area of the reserve.

If you choose not to visit VF/Chobe, northern Botswana might be an option. Yes, it's stupid expensive but really great. The Okavango Delta is spectacular and the lodges are great. Three nights at two lodges each as you gave to fly to Maun and use charters to reach most lodges. Great Plains does a good job - they are affiliated with Dereck and Beverly Joubert. Or Wilderness Safaris, &Beyond, Ker and Downey... The problem being the few rhinos in Botswana - I'd hate for you to miss them as they are in lots of trouble. It's best to combine with a Kruger lodge.

Just be flexible. August is booked up pretty solid.
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Old Jan 22nd, 2017, 06:06 PM
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Thanks all for the througthful replies, I have not checked them all but so far only royal malewane is sold out, so fingers crossed. I like the idea of going to wine country last and I think I will save Vic falls to another visit a different time or the year.
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Old Jan 23rd, 2017, 02:53 AM
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The drought is definitely over now- the rains have been good, in fact better than good- in Zambia and Botswana I've been hearing it's been raining heavily since before Christmas with flooding in some parts.

So I wouldn't worry about water levels being any lower than usual in late August. I have been to the falls several times- May, early Aug, late Sept and late Oct. Only the late Sept and Oct trips would I describe the falls as "unimpressive", and in May the sheer amount of water made photographing the falls difficult because of the amount of spray. My best photos were from my August trip- with brochure perfect rainbows. I think I was there around 5-8 Aug. I doubt an extra couple of weeks would make much difference, and from what I've heard of the rains so far, I'd expect this year to have higher water levels for longer.
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Old Jan 23rd, 2017, 05:06 AM
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Hi SAmerRich!

Regardless of where you decide to go, my recommendation is to do non-safari destinations first and leave your safari nights for last for a couple reasons. First, the rigor of the daily schedule while on safari can be more difficult when you first arrive in Africa and are perhaps feeling jet lag. I also think that safari is really the crescendo of the trip and is best when last. Lastly, and more related to your time of year traveling, one week isn't going to be all that different in weather and really not worth adjusting your itinerary based upon the unknowns of mother nature. Having said that, it also depends upon your itinerary and whether you have the luxury to order your itinerary that way. Sometimes, in order to stay in a particular lodge, you take the space that's available and craft the rest of your itinerary accordingly.

If you aren't going to Bots/Zim/Zam, then including Victoria Falls in the itinerary is because you are really excited to experience this Natural Wonder and you are perhaps interested in doing adrenalin-rich activities which the area is famed for. But going there requires a 2 night minimum because of the way the flights run, so that's just something to keep in mind.

If you keep Victoria Falls in the itinerary, then I would do that first then Cape Town, then your safari. Since you are traveling late August, then you might want to do a Lunar Rainbow Tour while at Victoria Falls since the full moon will be out. Don't know your specific travel days but that might be of interest if the dates line up!

Three nights in Cape Town is a minimum really. There are so many great things to do there depending upon your interests in nature, culinary/wine, apartheid history, culture, arts and more! You could alternatively do the Wine Lands as a day trip. Biking thru the vineyards on a private guided tour is one fun and active way to do it. Clients love the views, the architecture, the farms, the wine tasting and vibe of the region.

If a day trip isn't enough, then you can stay as a guest on one of the beautiful vineyards or in one of the many boutique hotels/guest houses. Franschhoek is a good base and you could explore Stellenbosch and Paarl from there, depending upon your time. If you don't mind packing up from Cape Town and relocating for a short stay, it's great! Babylonstoren has the most amazing and beautiful gardens and lunch at Jordan Vineyard in their glass walled restaurant with incredible views of the vineyards are just two great spots that I recommend to clients.

From Cape Town, you can fly to the reserve airport closest to your lodge of choice. Of the ones you mentioned, I particularly like Londolozi. I think they blend luxury with style and service in a really warm, friendly and authentic way. Their game viewing area is incredible. I have always been impressed with stays there.

Having said that, there are many great lodges. It really does depend upon your budget and style of travel that meet your vision. Some areas of the reserve have more lodges and since they share traversing rights, there can be more jeeps. This has been mentioned already. Also some lodges are located in smaller reserves with fencing so please keep this in mind. I would focus on Sabi Sand, Timbavati and Manyeleti Reserves. Since it is winter in August, there are fewer permanent waterholes which will draw the animals to fewer places to drink. So it is a bonus to have a waterhole or river access while game viewing. I agree with others that it would be great if you could do more than 3 nights.

Sounds like a great trip! Availability is very tight though! So I would start a very targeted search for lodges for your safari asap. Confirm that piece of the itinerary and then work on your stays in Cape Town and Victoria Falls, if you keep Vic Falls in there. Then it's a matter of the transfers and flight logistics to thread it all together. Perhaps some private guided tours in Cape Town and the Wine Lands to suit your personal interests - the icing on the cake!

Best
Dianne
Africa Direct USA
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Old Jan 23rd, 2017, 05:57 AM
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I think you are really late to be looking at those camps but who knows. I've been twice to Sabi Sands and can tell you that it is an absolutely life-changing experience. I've stayed at Lion Sands Ivory and at Londolozi and I can also tell you that Londolozi was one of the best "hotel" stays of my travel-filled life, and I've stayed at a lot of top hotels all over the place. You really should try to get in there. We were at the very small Pioneer camp, one of several within Londolozi.

I would skip Victoria Falls.

If for some reason you cannot get into one of the Sabi Sands camps, Tswalu in the Kalahari area is pretty great as well, and you will have your own ranger and vehicle the entire time, plus the flight from CT on their private plane is included. But you will not get the wealth of wildlife that you do in SS:

http://www.tswalu.com/


I loved the Belmond Mt Nelson in CT.

I'll be heading to SA/Botswana again this spring and I cannot wait.

All my trips were planned (beautifully) by SouthernDestinations in CapeTown.


I've written two reports here about my trips:


http://www.fodors.com/community/afri...lsbotswana.cfm



http://www.fodors.com/community/afri...in-october.cfm
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Old Jan 23rd, 2017, 06:12 AM
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Perhaps not the depth of experience of some others, but some "for what it's worth" thoughts...

Your outline plan roughly duplicates one we did on our first visit to Africa around a dozen years ago. We flew into JNB and transferred immediately to LVI for a couple of days at Chobe, followed by two days at Victoria Falls. Then we flew back (from VFA) to JNB, got a car and drove up to the Kruger area. (We were on a more modest budget and had friends-of-friends who own a safari lodge in the Balule reserve to the north of Sabi Sand.) We spent three nights at the lodge, saw all sorts of animals (no leopards, sadly) but were knocked out by the experience.

Then we drove back to JNB and flew to Cape Town for a few days there, during which we drove to Hermanus, saw the penguins at Boulders Beach, and spent two nights in Stellenbosch with days touring the winelands. Then home.

In several subsequent trips at the same time of year, we kept to the same basic model - start in the north (or a couple of times in the Madikwe reserve in western SA near Gaborone) and move south, giving the weather time to improve as the country moves into spring. On a couple of trips we added Phinda and St. Lucia, and other KZN destinations like Cathedral Peak in the Drakensberg mountains, or drove the Garden Route from PLZ and Addo over to the Western Cape.

And on one memorable long weekend we drove up the Atlantic coast a couple of hours north of Cape Town to see the incredible wildflowers on display in West Coast National Park. Going further into Namaqualand during the spring is right at the top of my bucket list.

The point being, use the seasons as a means of structuring your visit. If you're arriving from North America (are you?) also bear in mind the significant time change; I would caution against jumping in a car right away, even though driving in SA is (to me at least) a real joy. Different side of the road, local driving customs and protocols, etc. - not something for the jetlagged.

What I would say of your plan is that it's all about choices. We found the Chobe/Victoria Falls experience interesting but we had nothing to measure it against. In retrospect I would gladly have exchanged those days and dollars for additional experiences in SA - more days on safari, or more days driving around one of the most beautiful countries in the world, or spending more time visiting people and people places. We did all those in subsequent visits, and never regretted the tradeoff.

Yes, you can get pretty amazing food and wine in SA, but the "people food" can be pretty amazing too. Watch Tony Bourdain's TV episode in Joburg. Spend a night after a Sabi Sand safari in Graskop on the (stunning) Panorama Route and eat pancakes at Harrie's. Eat amazing seafood at the Noisy Oyster or the Voorstrandt on the beach in picturesque Paternoster, on the west coast 90 min. north of Cape Town. Eat amazing Cape Malay food in the Bo-Kaap district of Cape Town. The good stuff is everywhere.

The big problem with a trip to South Africa is that it becomes addictive and you'll be planning your second trip before the ink on your visa stamp is dry.
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Old Jan 23rd, 2017, 07:59 AM
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Speaking of food, if you are interested in the top restaurants, I would advise a dinner at The Test Kitchen in CapeTown. Have your hotel or agent make the booking as far in advance as possible, even a few months ahead if they permit that.

Gardyloo's last statement, above, is SO true!
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Old Jan 25th, 2017, 01:49 AM
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These responses are incredibly helpful. From my additional inquiries there is some availability in most lodges but is getting tight as several as you noted. A specific question about lion sands ivory lodge. Being on the southern edge of Sabi sands on the border of Kruger, is that an area with more limited traffic like singita and londolozi or more like the western side with a bit more traffic? Thank you again.
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Old Jan 25th, 2017, 05:27 AM
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I don't remember that Lion Sands had more traffic than Londolozi but that may have been the case. Honestly we were so blown away by the experience that it might not have made a difference seeing one or two more vehicles. The cottages at Ivory are gorgeous..I wish my home in NYC was as nice. If you do go, make sure to book their treehouse for one night; I decided too late and it was booked for the nights of my stay.

But of the two, I liked Londolozi much better. You won't go wrong with either; is there no room at Londo? Where are you finding openings?
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Old Jan 25th, 2017, 11:16 AM
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"The drought is definitely over" is just not true. After a two year severe drought, normal or a little higher than normal rainfall for a couple of months is not going to end it. The water level at VF in August can be low - they was very little flow when I visited in a normal rainfall year. But others go right after a little rain and it's spectacular in August. It can be hit or miss. But if you go, add Chobe! Fun and very different than a Kruger experience - the houseboats are lots of fun.

I don't know what you mean by traffic. The reserves are private property, so visitors to Kruger National Park are not permitted entry. Only the lodge vehicles and any they share traversing areas with are allowed on the property. The western side has more vehicles but you will never notice "traffic". The rangers are very good and don't spend time with a lot of other vehicles and limit vehicles at special sightings. You can't go wrong with any of the mentioned lodges. I'd recommend looking at a few of the less expensive lodges as well - I enjoy them as much (actually, much more than) the high end lodges. You see the same wildlife, just no fine china... It feels like safari to me.

Lion Sands also has treehouses for a "sleep outside" experience. Other lodges do too, but LS does it well. I actually love tented lodges so you get to listen to the bush while falling asleep. Tanda Tula and Ngala Tented are just two of the very nice ones. Kambaku, Simbavati and Klaserie River are more affordable, and really great. Just be sure to choose a lodge with a water feature in camp so you can watch wildlife visit between game drives.

I don't recommend Tswalu on a first safari. Some of the wildlife we expect are not present due to the environment. It's nice, but do it next time.

As above, you've been warned - S Africa can be addictive. You'll be back. Anything you don't do this time, try the next (or the one after that).
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Old Jan 26th, 2017, 03:34 AM
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We have checked londolozi, singita and lion sands and all have some availability but we do have to be flexible around dates. For example, Londolozi had private granite suites and founders available but for two different three night windows.
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Old Jan 26th, 2017, 01:42 PM
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We stayed at Pioneer but I can assure you that anyplace in Londo would be fabulous. Do not get caught up on pitting one camp against the other within the Londo property. How many nights are you thinking for there? I would do four if I could manage it.

We are heading to Botswana again in May and chose three lodges with 3 or 4 nights stays at each one.

Agree, Tswalu not as good for first time safari goer, but an option only if all other choices are booked tight.
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Old Jan 29th, 2017, 10:27 AM
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This is an excellent site for checking out the best restaurants in South Africa - www.eatout.co.za

Good luck with booking Test Kitchen
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Old Jan 29th, 2017, 11:03 AM
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Granite is really gorgeous, with big granite boulders. Founders, I think, is the most economical of the Londo camps, if one can use such a word to describe the prices there. Good job to take three nights, as I think two is not enough at any of the camps.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2017, 12:04 PM
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