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Kgalagadi Transfrontier NP

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Old Dec 8th, 2015, 10:03 PM
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Kgalagadi Transfrontier NP

Trying to wake up a few fodorites who have done this in the past from slumber and help
Did go thru old posts ( '08 ).In need of latest info and advise.

Have driven in Namibia ( May 15) and a few other african countries.So driving long hrs no issue.

Q1. When : Tentatively end of March'16, begining of April'16

Q2. How long : 2 weeks (8 days only Kgalagadi TF NP )

Q3. Where : Arriving Jo'burg. Transportation to Upington ? Then hire a 4x4 for the park.

Q4. Self-drive with a 4x4 rented in Upington self organised using Sanparks or opt for a guided ,driven
safari, with a mix of camping and lodging.

More to follow. Thx in advance
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Old Dec 9th, 2015, 02:29 PM
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What are your questions?

So far, your plan looks fine. Whether to use a guide is personal choice and budget. You don't need a fully kitted out camping 4x4 if you use rest camp bungalows and wilderness camps, just a regular 4x4. All drinking water, food (limited choices in the park) and firewood/charcoal must be brought with you.

Check for availability - there is nothing in May/June in many camps, though I keep checking, making logistics more difficult. I imagine the same for March/April. Start there.
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Old Dec 9th, 2015, 10:03 PM
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Would request you to weigh the 'Pros and Cons'.

Wondering if end of March- begining of April is 'good' season. Weather-wise.Visitor 'traffic-wise'.Wildlife sighting-wise and so on.

Secondly, a couple of operators have offered a combination of camping ( either in rest camp or absolute wilderness 'in remote secret locations' only known to them !) and wilderness camps.All we do is sit back and enjoy when everything is taken care.

On the other hand,though tempting,self-drive with camp-gear and rations need elaborate planning.In tight schedules like ours,losing time in case of any eventuality would spell disaster.

What are 'Long Drop Toilets'. Are they squatty potty?

Jo'burg to Upington seems a whole day journey by road.Still unsure of the mode of transport.Would renting a car to drive all the way an only option.

Any good tour operators fodorites can recommend in that region (Upington).

Thx
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Old Dec 9th, 2015, 11:06 PM
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It's a bit more than a day's drive. You can fly JNB to UPT, rent truck, buy all food/water, etc. KTP is never crowded - not enough accommodations for crowds. Everything about KTP is extreme - hot, cold, dry, rain...

There is no "off road" so secret locations? No. Just probably remote on the Botswana side. The Botswana side is very remote, tough to drive - if you are interested in the Botswana side, definitely get a guide or tour.

8 days is a long time in KTP (hard to keep fresh food fresh that long) so Augrabies NP is a good combo at the front end. Very close and entirely different.

Long drop toilets are porta-potties. Just a deep hole - no running water. No ensuite.

No need to camp on self drive. There are many fully equipped rest camps and wilderness camps. Just bring food, firewood and water. Availability is tough and some months sell out 11 months in advance. In a pinch you can get most provisions in rest camps, just not a lot of choice.

Have you done a self drive in S Africa? If not, why not just start in spectacular Kruger to get your feet wet before trying to do the much more remote and logistically difficult KTP? There are also private concessions on both the S Africa side and Botswana side. Expensive, but easy. And no camping or drop toilets required. KTP is famous for predators but no rhino, elephants, buffalo, wild dog, few giraffe. If you have not visited S Africa, I wouldn't start with KTP.

Try Bushlore for vehicles and tours.
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Old Dec 10th, 2015, 03:46 AM
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Thanks Christabir for the info.Been to SA a couple of times before and each time to Kruger of course, it has never disappointed me.Never felt the necessity to drive in South Africa in the past, as each time it was a short visit and is well connected by air.

Kgalagadi TF np is on my bucket list.North Cape has always intrigued me, so this is the reason to make it up there.Particularly interested in the unique flora and fauna the region has to offer.

Now that you have told me that camps get booked up in advance, I better move fast.You have provided a great deal of valuable info and options will research into it thoroughly. I've also taken note about the duration in KTP,can look at 6 days with a day or two break at any of the camps.


On the other hand, toying with the idea of starting off from Windhoek renting a 4x4, travel south towards Hardap region( last May it was northern Namibia route I did ).An over night at Kamelruhe at Gochas.

http://www.kamelruheguesthousenamibia.com/
or
http://www.reddunecamp.com/
and the Kalahari Farmstall with is just 14km to Mata Mata

Enter SA at Mata Mata border post.Its probably a 6 hr drive from Windhoek.Could also look at the Mata Mata camp and drive around KTP. Just a thought.
Keeping options open.

Pardon me, not trying compicating. Bouncing off ideas ,
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Old Dec 10th, 2015, 03:48 AM
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Sorry.typo.Read 'Not trying to complicate things'

Thx once again
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Old Dec 10th, 2015, 03:52 AM
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The Kalahari Farmstall,with fully serviced accomodation, close to Mata Mata

http://www.kalaharifarmstall.com/
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Old Dec 10th, 2015, 11:36 AM
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Sorry - didn't know about your past trip. KTP is a rough first go. Check out the Bushlore trips - some look great, and being taken care of is great. At wilderness camps cooking out without a fence - I don't know, with all those predators!! I believe someone here did a tour with Mason tours. It wasn't that long ago - try another search. He also did Mashatu on that trip, I seem to remember.

The flora is best in N Cape when the fynbos bloom - generally sometime between end of August to maybe early October. With climate change and drought it is unpredictable.

Check on customs requirements from Mata Mata. They might require a two night stay in the park, but I'm not sure about the MM side. Entering through Twee Rivereen requires two nights to exit to Botswana or Namibia. I would try to do more than just MM - it's one small corner of the park.

Don't be surprised if there is almost zero availability. It's a huge park with few accommodations and very popular. I don't plan early enough. I'm a last minute type, usually if I find a great flight deal!
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Old Dec 14th, 2015, 08:58 AM
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Read the trip reports in the SanParks Kgalagadi forum. That's all I did to prepare for a 10 day self drive in KTP in 2013. We flew from JNB to Upington and rented a small SUV, not a 4x4, as we stayed in the South African side restcamps. I'm planning a return in 2017 that will involve the Botswana side campsites and then we'll need a 4x4. Like others have said many of the restcamps sell out 11 months in advance, but even if you can only get Twee Rivieren and Mata Mata or Kalahari Tented Camp it's worth going.
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Old Dec 14th, 2015, 10:11 PM
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Been pouring through TRs and each time something better and more interesting seem to arise. Botsawana side seems interesting.Trying to organise a driver/guide to take us through this all-out camping safari.We'll probably hire 2 4x4s. We have 2 experienced drivers with us,quite adept at tough terrain.

As we arrive on Jo'burg,contemplating starting of from Kuruman. An overnight stay there and set off to Mabuasehube Game Reserve via Tshabong roughly 250 kms. Camp for 2 nights.The following day drive to the Mabasehube gate and Hakuntsi,set up camp at Kaa.The next 2 days will be the Kaa trail.

This stretch is getting me a little worried.No facilities available.From the Kaa camp drive towards Swartpan overnight and game drives.The next day, another 100km would take us to Thupapedi Pan.game drives ,camp overnight.

The following morning drive towards Polenstwa.More game drive if required, or simply enjoy the camp. I hear is on the Nossob river-bed.

Almost the end of a great adventure, drive towards Twee Riverien of straight to Askham.End of tour.

This is a loosely planned itinerary.Subject to a lot of tinkering.Discussing logistics with a few experienced folks in Northern Cape.Will keep you posted with the progress. In the meanwhile, any form of valuable info is welcome.
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Old Feb 1st, 2016, 11:32 PM
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Well,here is what has happened in the past 6 weeks. Most of the 'tour specialists' threw up their arms. Either they are busy or the camps are fully booked ( as expected ).I'm now left with 2 of them who have kept the little fire burning & my hopes alive.Most of the time they have been on tour ( they personally accompany) so communication is been at snail's pace.

The biggest problem has been the dates and its still not finalized.Now I'm working around 'availibility' and looks like it would be April'16.

I phoned today, primarily to save communication time and was told that there were no place in the campsites ( Mabuasehube ) and would have to pitch tents with absolutely no facilities!! Not even drop toilets !! This has got me nervous. Very,very nervous.

The plan now is to hire a fully fitted out 4x4 in Jo'burg and drive straight to Kuruman. Will be met by the guide with another vehicle and set off.

This is the planned itinerary as given to me.


DAY 01: Arrival – McCarthy’s Rest
Guide meet clients at noon at the parking area of the Eye of Kuruman. Depart to McCarthy’s Rest Border Post via Hotazel and Black Rock. Accommodation is on the South African side of the border.
Overnight: Chalet at Cullinan Holiday Farm
Meals: B & D
Distance: 190 km from Kuruman
Travel time: 03 hrs from Kuruman

DAY 02: McCarthy’s Rest - Mabuasehube
Enter Botswana. Proceed to Tshabong. Refuel. Continue on gravel and sand trail to Mabuasehube in the far eastern part of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Mabuasehube has more annual rainfall and the landscape is bushier than the western side. The campsites are far apart and very private. Mabuasehube campsites are situated on the edge of big pans, some overlooking waterholes. Afternoon game drive.
Overnight: One of the camps camping (basic facilities)
Meals: B, L & D
Distance: 170 km
Travel time: 5 hrs

DAY 03: Mabuasehube
Game drives in Mabuasehube.
Overnight: One of the camps camping (basic facilities)
Meals: B & D
Distance: 60 km
Travel time: 6 hrs

DAY 04: Mabuasehube – Kaa Concession
Game drive to Mabuasehube gate. Depart north to the small town Hukuntsi. Refuel and replenish supplies. Proceed via Zutshwa, where a small San community lives, to Name Pan in the Kaa Kalahari Concession Area. The Kaa Kalahari Concession lies in the southwest of Botswana and borders on the north of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and is one of the last great unfenced wilderness areas in Southern Africa covering 1,3 million ha. Roughly 800 people live in a few small villages. There are two major ethnic groups; the Bakgalagadi and Basarwa or San. The latter lives here for 3 000 years.

Vast herds of game can still be seen in typical Kalahari veld with rolling grass plains and Acacia woodland. The area is dotted with pans (dry lakes) which fill up with water after good rains in summer and attract large herds of eland, gemsbok, springbok, red hartebeest, some predators and many birds. Over 50 species of raptors have been recorded here. Kaa Concession is of ecological importance as it is the migratory corridor between the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and the Central Kalahari Game Reserve.
Overnight: Name Pan camping (No facilities)
Meals: B & D
Distance: 270 km
Travel time: 7 hrs

DAY 05: Kaa Kalahari Concession – Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
The trail takes us through the Kaa Kalahari Concession Area with beautiful stretches of savannah woodland. Proceed to Kaa Gate on the northern border of the Botswana part of the Park.

Depart to the Nossob River Valley. Eland are seen very often on this route. Game drive south in the Nossob Valley to Polentswa Camp on the Botswana side in this 37 000 square km park, which is one of the largest conservation areas in the world and one of the last truly unspoilt ecosystems. Endemic game such as gemsbok, springbok, eland, giraffe, blue wildebeest and red hartebeest roam the sparsely vegetated red sand dunes and the dry river valleys of the Nossob and Auob where a variety of acacia species thrive.

The Park is well known for good sightings of lion, leopard and cheetah and spotted - and brown hyena are common residents. Because of an abundance of prey in the form of mice, whistling rats, birds and insects, smaller predators thrive in the park. The park is home to caracal, honey badger, black-backed jackal, bat-eared fox, cape fox, African wildcat, mongoose and the ever-popular suricate (meerkat).

Kgalagadi is a bird watcher’s paradise with more than 300 species recorded including at least 20 larger raptor species. The world’s heaviest flying bird, the Kori bustard and the stately secretary bird patrol the riverbeds while the noisy northern black korhaan rule in the dunes.

(The facilities at Polentswa are very basic. Each campsite has an A-frame shade structure, pit toilet and a shelter for shower bag.)
Overnight: Polentswa on the Botswana side (basic facilities)
Meals: B & D
Distance: 170 km
Travel time: 7 hrs

DAY 06: Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Game drive to Nossob Rest Camp. Afternoon game drive.
Overnight: Chalet at Nossob
Meals: B & D
Distance: 120 km
Travel time: 5 hrs

DAY 07: Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Game drive south via the Nossob River valley to Twee Rivieren. Afternoon game drive
Overnight: Chalet at Twee Rivieren
Meals: B & D
Distance: 140 km
Travel time: 5 hrs

DAY 08: Kgalagadi – Kuruman
Depart to Kuruman vis Vanzylsrus.. En route we stop at the last indigenous San tribe in South Africa, the Khomani. Today these earliest residents of the Kalahari, living here for 40 000 years, consist of only 400 people and are resident in an area between 40 and 70 km south of Twee Rivieren.Continue to Kuruman.
Overnight:Chalet at Red Sands Country Lodge
Meals:At own cost
Distance:410 km
Travel time:6 hrs

INCLUDED:
Guide & assistant, guide vehicle incl. fuel
Local guide where applicable
Accommodation as per itinerary including camping equipment if needed
All entrance fees to National Parks and Nature Reserves
4x4 trail fees for clients’ vehicles & guide vehicle
Trans border fees where applicable for guide & clients’ vehicles
Meals as per itinerary
Activities as per itinerary
Coffee, tea and cool box with ice in the guide vehicle
Guidebooks about flora, fauna, geology, area etc. & maps in guide vehicle
Recovery equipment & basic tool kit
Satellite phone for emergency calls
Maximum 5 x two-way radios (Portacom & Zartek)
Satellite phone for emergency calls only
14% VAT

EXCLUDED:
Client’s vehicles & fuel for these vehicles
Camping equipment, sleeping bags & pillows, eating utensils for self drive clients.

If i'd manage to do this & survive,I promise to write a detailed TR
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Old Feb 2nd, 2016, 04:35 PM
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You are way braver than me!! I'd love to do the Botswana side of KTP for the amazing wildlife, but I don't think it's in the cards for me. That all sounds like an excellent plan - I love that you will have two vehicles, otherwise I would have suggested it might not be your best option. But with two - go for it!

I'm pretty sure you can get a toilet included with the fully kitted out 4x4. I hope you plan to sleep on top of or in the vehicle. Much safer.

Really, have the time of your life. It sounds perfect. Stupendous!! A TR will absolutely be required - if you survive it, of course. I am bright green with envy.
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Old Feb 4th, 2016, 11:33 AM
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Christabir,your gentle nudge has been inspiring.It translates into to' move or you'll not make it '.A great feeling to have someone urging you to get on and find a solution. Fodorites are a breed apart.

Till now its only been 'hot air ' from my end. Praying hard it does not fail.I don't give up easily.It's paid off in the past.

I'm all too familiar with the situation.Thrown myself into the unknown and made it out.Hope and wish this time with luck and good wishes I shall succeed.

A lot of positives in the last couple of days.Constructive dialogues,deliberations afoot.I see the African sun rising over the red dunes,the Meerkats scampering,a distant roar of the Blacked-Maned lion.Am I dreaming......?
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Old Feb 4th, 2016, 01:00 PM
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Inquest
If it were me, I would do this trip without a guide or driver - the areas you are considering are pretty tame.

For bookings on the Bots side, contact Tara at Botswana Footprints - if anyone can get you bookings in the Mabua area of Kgalagadi at this late stage, it is Tara. www.botswanafootprints.com or [email protected]

For the SA side of the park, you are able to see what is available online on the SAN Parks website:
https://www.sanparks.org/parks/kgalagadi/
Go to the drop down menu under "travel" and click on "availability." Click on a camp and then "view a monthly calendar" and you can see what is available for each month.

If it were me, I would fly from JNB to Upington and see if you are able to rent one of Avis' new safari vehicles - they have an outlet at the Upington airport.
http://www.avisvanrental.co.za/avis-safari-rental.aspx

A great source of info regarding the Bots side of Kgalagadi is the Botswana 4x4 Community Forum - see here:
http://www.4x4community.com/forum/fo...play.php?f=169
You will find many more trip reports for the Mabua area on the 4x4 forum than you will here - not as many self-drivers on this forum.

Lastly, do not be put off by all the nervous nellies who will tell you how difficult the roads are and how dangerous the unfenced camping is. My DH and I - two Canadians who are both 60+ - have self-driven and camped our way through SA, Bots, Namibia, Kenya, Tanzania and Zambia, and we have never been in any serious difficulty. If we are able to do it (self-drive and camp), you (who sound younger) certainly will be fine.

Have a look here for a little inspiration and confidence:

https://bert-and-bin.smugmug.com/Tan...-2014/n-5GvtK/
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Old Feb 4th, 2016, 01:12 PM
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Inquest

Further to my post above and regarding the link to the Kenya/Tanzania trip report and photos that I provided at the bottom, be certain to read what I have written with photos 73, 74 and 75 on page 2 - just so you will appreciate both sides of self-driving and camping.
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Old Feb 4th, 2016, 10:40 PM
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Canadian_robin,your photo-narrative is truly awe-inspiring.Fantastic photos.Especially the lion incident,gave me goose bumps reading it.You both look 'at home'in the wild.What a way to travel!!kinda stuff my dream is made of.
Well,this isn't a nudge,its a push !! I like it!!

Many thanks.

You are absolutely right.Monomaniacal focus on a single goal is perhaps should be the ultimate stratagem.Will follow up on your leads immediately. The only hitch is,I believe they do not allow a single vehicle into the Botswana side of KTF np.That was the info I got and was one of the reason for looking at a guide vehicle.The other being a knowledgeable person could show you the wilderness in a different perspective.Will certainly find a way around it.
Keep you posted.
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Old Feb 5th, 2016, 08:14 AM
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My husband and I are booked to camp (on our own) in the Bots side of Kgalagadi in Dec/Jan this year. It is possible to visit in a single vehicle, but you are restricted to certain areas.

For the Mabua area, all campsites are available to single vehicles - the only restriction is that you must only travel back and forth to Nossob on the Matopi Road - you may not use the Mosamane Road or the Mosamane campsite on that road.

The Kaa/northern area of the Bots side has more restrictions - I believe you must have two vehicles for all roads in that area. However, you may stay at, and travel as far as, the Polentswa campsite on the Bots side - we are booked to stay there.

See this map: https://www.sanparks.org/images/park..._parkmap08.jpg

You will find much info about camping on the Bots side on the Botswana 4x4 website - you'll get reliable answers to your questions there and great trip reports.
http://www.4x4community.com/forum/fo...play.php?f=169

You may have difficulty getting bookings at this late stage - that will be your biggest challenge. Contact Tara at Botswana Footprints for the Bots side, and watch the SAN Parks website for cancellations on the SA side - they do happen.

For out trip in Dec/Jan, we have booked a combination of camping on the Bots side (with an Avis safari vehicle) and staying at the wilderness camps on the SA side.

Happy you enjoyed the photos and report. Yes, that lion gave us quite the scare.

Happy planning!
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Old Feb 26th, 2016, 01:37 AM
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Its falling into place. Everything is booked and I'm excited.we arrive in Jo'burg on the 17th April'16,collect the vehicle,Toyota Hilux 4x4. Here I'm coordinating with Bushlore (thanks Christbir).Clyde seem to be very professional and has offered an unreal deal for the vehicle.Though their travel coordinator wasn't able to help with park bookings nor the tour.

Overnight.

This is as communicated to me.

Day 1 Kuruman, South Africa
Depart early from Johannesburg/Pretoria to Kuruman, also known as “Oasis of Kalahari” (570km)
Check into one of the guesthouses, for the evening. If the excitement will allow you,rest well before the great adventure
starts in the heart of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

Day 2 + 3 + 4 Mabuasehube Game Reserve, Botswana
After a hearty breakfast depart to Mabauasehube, where we will cross McCarty’s Rest border post into Botswana. (430km)
Mabuashebube means red earth and is named after the red Kalahari sand. You will experience wildlife first-hand around the rustic, basic and unfenced campsite. Allthe major predators can be seen at
Mabuasehube.

Day 5 + 6 + 7 KAA Concession KAA & Swartpan, Botswana
It is time to stock up on fuel, water and food. Visit a small village, Hukuntsi, where you will findbasic shops just for
the necessities for the coming 5 days: butcheries, take away restaurants and a clinic. Thereafter,we will head directly to KAA
concession to camp for the night.(150km).

Day 8 Nossob Rest Camp, Botswana
Today we are heading to the heart of Kgalagadi (3,6 million hectares) to Nossob Rest Camp (200km). The red sand dunes and
dry riverbeds of the Nossob will show off abundant variety of
antelope and predators; excellent photographic opportunities will come your way.

Day 9 Rooiputs/Twee Rivieren
We will head south and just before we exit the Park we will turn off to Rooiputs/Twee Rivieren Camping area where we will stay
for the last night in the Park.(210km)

Day 10 Kuruman, South Africa
After breakfast we will depart and slowly return to civilization.Overnight before heading back to Gauteng.

Canadian _robin,is there anything particular I should know about camping details,dos and donts etc,that you feel,from your first hand experience.
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Old Feb 26th, 2016, 12:14 PM
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Hi inquest!
So, just to be clear, you are traveling on your own and therefore cooking for yourselves? If so, then you need to plan out your meals and put together a complete grocery list - from toilet paper to cream for coffee.

When we are preparing for a visit to Kgalagadi, we make a day to day food list per meal - breakfast, lunch, dinner and even tea - and then a non-food list of things like paper towel and wood. We then combine it into one long list. You will be a long way from a store, so you need to ensure that you will not forget anything.

Personally, I would skip the shopping at Hukuntsi and plan on purchasing everything in JNB. With long-life milk and a freezer for your meat (I believe all Bushlore vehicles have them), there should be no need to shop twice. The shop in Nossob does have good meat from a butchery in Upington, so you will have the opportunity to re-stock meat.

Do you know what campsites at Mabua, KAA and Swartpan you are staying at? I would want to know that ahead of time so that I could plan out my route and know how many km (and therefore how many hours) I am traveling in a day.

On day 9, are you at Twee Rivieren or Rooiputs? They are 20km apart! If you have a choice, ask for Rooiputs - much more wild.

You might enjoy this trip report (link below) - the couple did a very similar trip to what you are doing - starting in JNB and renting from Bushlore, staying at many of the same campsites. You'll note that they do all of their shopping in JNB. There are also great photos.

http://www.alisonbuttigieg.com/self-...rica-botswana/
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Old Feb 26th, 2016, 03:22 PM
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It sound absolutely wonderful. I thought Bushlore would be more helpful with arrangements, but probably only for a tour with them. I found them when I was planning my Kgalagadi trip (didn't go, bummer) and they also sell their used vehicles, which we are considering when we move to KZN. The Hilux is a great bakkie. Aren't there four of you? Two vehicles? Or did you decide on a double cab Hilux and rent just one?

As cr says, figure out every meal, every snack, every drink (and sundowner) and stock up. Use the list from Bushlore of what is included in the rental and buy everything not included. I would need lots of fresh produce for the beginning and frozen veggies for the end. Use the PicknPay website for available seasonal food - they have online shopping so you can see everything they have. Don't forget Peri Peri sauce. It's good on everything. I use too much tin foil when I braai, make sure you'll have enough to cook all of your sides. Bring foods you love that you can't find with you - I drink almond milk (in long life packaging) and use low carb wraps in place of bread so I have to bring those. Of course, follow the import/customs rules. Generally, no fresh food. Must be packaged/canned. Bring the soap and moisturizer and sunscreen you use at home - your skin will have enough problems.

I prefer charcoal, but wood might work out better. I have no idea. I'd probably stock up on both and donate everything you don't use at the end. Make sure the vehicle has extra water tanks and big petrol tanks, I'm sure it does.

I'm so jealous. Have the time of your life - and tell us all about it when you get home!
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