Very nice and detailed report!
Thanks for getting smiles on to my face here and there
I agree: It's worthwhile to hit the road sometimes instead of flying-in as it gives a feeling of the country one is traveling.

I found some similarities............

We also found the Cheetah "encounter" disgusting at the Nairobi NP; exploitation of these gracious cats by the "care taker". Not to mention the much tooooo small enclosure.

Lempaute is also one of "our" orphaned elis at Sheldrick's and we also LOVE to have a meal at Mediterraneo.

sallysaab - I wonder why you fear some "inaccuracies" regarding animals! Wasn't the Sunworld guide supposed to point out, educate and enlighten besides the guides at camps? I am just wondering........

SV

Welcome back, glad to see the report appearing.
You had some great sightings at Samburu, even seeing Wild Dogs just to make us all feel really jealous.

I think there is a lesson for us all to avoid wild animal petting wherever it occurs, even though it is almost irresistible.

I understand the rains failed this year, or were much lighter, so perhaps Sweetwaters is still very dry.

Look forward to the next instalment.

I meant to say, I think the flat rock you mentioned was Ololokwe … I also noted its resemblance to Uluru.

sallysaab, thoroughly enjoyed the first installment. Looking forward to next one. Will keep in mind the blackcurrant fanta when in the area! Dick

SV, yes he told us names when we asked, but between his accent-our ears-remembering when we got to the lodge, things would have gotten confused. We did make notes as we drove, but the bad bumpy writing was an issue as well.But more on that later. Love your Cat!

twaffle, in hindsight perhaps we shouldnt have gone in, but you dont know until it happens. It did purr, dont know if it was in anger or joy.
Thanks for the name of the rock, looked at Google Earth but just wasnt convinced that was it.
Dick, can you post Fanta to us!
We have had to enter Fanta rehab!
There is also Passion and Pineapple which we didnt try, the blackcurrant was really refreshing.

Welcome back, sallysaab, and thanks for starting your report! Lucky you with the wild dog sighting! I need to try the blackcurrent Fanta next time. Looking forward to more.

Thanks for your report -- I'm really enjoying it and look forward to reading more. Wild dogs at Samburu!! Woo-hoo! What luck, and I'm so glad to hear that. Samburu was one of my favorite places in Kenya, as well.

I'm always happy to learn about new soda flavors -- something to look out for on my next trip.

twaffle -- "I think there is a lesson for us all to avoid wild animal petting wherever it occurs, even though it is almost irresistible." Well put. Thanks. Sallysaab, I'm not judging you for wanting to do this, because it would be very hard indeed to NOT want to put a cheetah, given the chance. I appreciate that you posted your negative feelings about the experience. I suspect there are a few places where hand-raised animals probably can be petted with no harm to animals or humans, but in general I don't think most of those places are available to tourists.

Day 8 (25th March): Sweetwater’s - Lake Nakuru National Park - Sarova Lion Hill
Left Sweetwater’s about 8am, nothing at the waterhole this morning. A pretty uneventful drive except how many “Equators” are there? Stopped at the Rift Valley lookout, absolutely awesome, but desperately needing rain. Once again we got hassled by the stallholders. I spoke with Jack who was very nice and explained all about the Rift Valley while I was taking a movie which I really appreciated, except for Biddy, in the background constantly saying “Dot we’re going to the toilet”, he also pointed out where his family’s house was etc, I happily bought an elephant from him at an exorbitant price mainly because he didn’t give me a hard time. Lin dealt with Grace and of course hit it off because her dogs’ name is Grace and Biddy’s bloke gave her a seriously hard time.
Saw a rhino along the way. Arrived in time for a late lunch.

By the way, so far none of the lodges have been very busy.

On the afternoon game drive we saw a 10 White Rhino, 3 Black Rhino, lots of Zebra including a very young baby, Eland, 1 lion Sleeping, Eagle Owl, Dik Dik, Giraffe, Warthogs with piglets running of course, Tawny Eagle, Flamingo, Pelicans, Impala, Cape Buffalo, Water Buck. The flamingo on the Lake were rather spectacular even though we saw about a third of what should be there, when they took to the air the pink on the underside of their wings was a deeper pink we were told we were watching the Greater Flamingo.
Watched a Masai dance before dinner which was enjoyable as they didn’t appear to be bored, as so many of these “organized” dancers through out the world seem to be.
Food at Lake Nakuru was not as good as the others, had to listen to some very bad guitar playing, we tried our best to ignore the guy much to the disgust of a couple across from us.
They put hot water bottles in our beds, which once again weren’t necessary, but of course in winter would be greatly appreciated. The room was quite comfortable. The shower interesting.

I chuckled at your question of how many equators are there?

Wild dogs in Samburu? How fantastic and what a lucky sighting! Thanks for sharing your thoughts on your grip.

Dogs in Samburu and black currant Fanta! Sounds like the trip of a lifetime already.

The Fanta might have a little too much carbonation for my taste, but the dogs would have just the right amount of fiz.

sallysaab, you will have to wait 'til Nov for the black currant post. Wife really liked the passion fanta. Lodges (Tanzania) didn't have a great variety of flavors but maybe one in Samburu will have. And, wild dogs to boot!! Dick

Day 9 (26th March): Lake Nakuru - Masai Mara Game Reserve - Serena Lodge
Left Lake Nakuru around 8am with a short game drive on the way out of the park. Long drive to the Mara, James didn’t take the short cut because it was too dusty.
On a horrid stretch of road we were passed by a big green bus with a picture of Michelle Obama on the back, as well as mud flaps with “The First Lady” on it, the guy was driving like a maniac on a shocking road with lots of road work and diversions, he passed us twice before we lost him for good, and it was like “look out here comes Michelle again” really expected to see him wiped out on the side of the road.
We saw Zebra, goats and warthogs along the side of the road like you see cows and sheep etc.
Topi, Zebra, Impala, Masai Giraffe, Warthogs with babies, Wildebeest, Lioness, Eland, Cokes Hartebeest, Eles, Ostrich, Hyena, Mongoose, Hippo, Dwarf Mongoose and Irax. We notice every time we see Warthogs they run in the other direction, James said they were camera shy.
When we arrived at the Mara the wonderful plains and the flat top Acacia trees overwhelmed us.
Our room number 94 was the very last to the left of the lounge area, and I remembered reading on Fodor’s about a path leading up to a lookout, so off we went, great view.
The room was comfortable, beds ok. We hung our clothesline out across the balcony, but decided it wasn’t a good look for those up by the pool, which in hindsight was good as the monkeys tried to get on the balcony we had to tap their little fingers to get them to move, thank goodness we didn’t leave the balcony doors open whilst on a game drive!
Because we had to keep the room closed we got a fan but some dill played a round with the knobs and set the timer to only work for a couple of hours.

Day 10 (27th March): Masai Mara - Serena Lodge
Went on a game at 6.15 watched the sun come up and the hot air balloons taking off.
On our game drive today we saw Giraffe, Topi, Eland, Warthogs, Thompson Gazelle, Impala, Hippos, Eles, Black backed Jackal, Bat eared foxes, Secretary bird, Marabou Stork, Hyena, Zebra, Black chested Eagle, Lion & Lioness and 3 other lions 1 of whom was pregnant, Crown crane, Wildebeest, Crocs, Egret, Ostrich, Buffalo.
We saw a female and two youngish male cheetahs who we followed for a while, and then 2 of them decided to jump up on the vehicle, 1 eventually jumped off and when the other looked like jumping in, James rocked the car so he'd go, I was close enough to be able to tell you his (the cheetah) teeth were beautiful and he didn’t have bad breath. James told us about one time when a cheetah got on the back of the vehicle and jumped inside, it got on the front seat with him, he lent across opened the door and pushed him out. We thought we were pretty cool having the cheetahs on the vehicle, but when we got back to the lodge it appeared it was very common, and people had also seen the “non-existent leopards”.
Had breakfast by the Mara River, and a little upstream was a large pod of Hippo’s. Saw a 4WD with 4 young men in it pull up by the river and amazingly one of them started throwing stones at the hippo’s and crocs, they moved off pretty quick when they saw us. Had our first bush pee.
There were lots elephants eating on the Savannah Grasslands, which are burnt off to regenerate the grass, the burnt off areas where extremely green. The scenery was just amazing, we completely fell in love with the Mara, even picking out a spot where we could pitch a tent for good.
This place is unbelievably beautiful, with animals dotted all over the place it’s just sensational!
Crocs, Egret, Ostrich, Hippo, Buffalo and a couple of Hyena, one with a Zebra skin it was carrying around.
Arvo drive, saw ele's with a month old baby, as well as an old matriarch, Zebra, Topi, Thompson’s Gazelle, then we came across a lion and lioness who were obviously going to get up to no good, we decided to leave them alone. Just about 50 metres away was another lion “in waiting”. In between the lions we saw 2 big vultures building a nest.
Then we saw jackal, eland warthogs, ostrich, Marshall eagle, which is the largest in Kenya and he had a stork he was eating.
We went on the night drive and saw the usual plus Genet cat, white tailed mongoose, rabbits, hippos, crowned cranes sleeping on the top of a dead tree, pretty uninteresting and the longest 2 hours we've ever had.

Day 11 (28th March): Masai Mara - Serena Lodge
“No pressure” has become the word of the day, as well as Hakuna Matata, especially in regards to the “non-existent” leopards
Went on an early morning game drive, Dot had an upset tummy, too much fruit, and considered not going.
We headed off towards the Serengeti, seeing 11 hyena's, a large herd of buffalo, zebra, crowned crane, ele’s, gazelle, serval cat, topi, wildebeest, white egret, warthog, ostrich, black backed jackal.
Had a huge breakfast, we found all the food boxes to be over generous, surrounded by a herd of zebra, buffalo and ele’s just amazing!
Lin and Biddy had another bush pee, but Dots stomach decided we should get back to the lodge asap.
Re packed again in readiness for our next leg.
Whilst in the room doing our notes Biddy had to chase another baboon away that was trying to get in.
Also when we were walking back down to our room there was a lot of activity by one of the drains, and we’re sure they were killing a snake.
In our opinion, the Mara is magnificent even without the migration, to sit in your room and watch the zebra and giraffe etc is outstanding.
Last arvo drive in the Mara, a great drive, beautiful evening, big black clouds a thunderstorm on its way. We saw Topi, Impala, and Warthogs that didn’t run! Thompson’s Gazelle, Zebra, 3 Cheetahs and 1 very agro buffalo, Crowned Cranes, Eles, Mongoose, Lion, Jackal and a very pregnant Cheetah.
The heavens opened as we were about to do the long walk to dinner, had to get out our very stylish brollies, 1 with ice cream cones the other with cupcakes, needless to say no one tried to “borrow” them when we left them at the lounge door, we did grab proper ones for the return walk.
Dinner this evening was a Kenyan theme, which meant Lin had a very limited choice so she decided to stick with salad, the first mouthful of coleslaw was a disaster as it apparently had a chilli sauce on it. The area where they were cooking the food was not undercover and their make shift canopy didn’t work, so you had to use a brolly.
Before I forget, most the lodges seemed to wax/polish their floors, which made walking in the wet quite dangerous, just something to be aware of as you slip back to your room. Also we had advised all the lodges of Lin’s Chilli allergy, and the coleslaw was overlooked much to the Chefs horror.
Samburu and the Mara were undoubtedly our favorites in Kenya, we wouldn’t stay at the Mara Serena again, but would look probably for a small-tented camp.

Day 12 (29th March): Masai Mara (Fly) Nairobi (Fly) Kilimanjaro - Lake Manyara National Park - Serena Lodge
Went out early for the game drive and as we were walking up to the lounge area the smoke alarms were sounding, we thought it must have been wake up calls, but no. Staff were running around trying to find the guilty smoking parties.
The roads were very wet and slippery, great fun sliding a round.
We saw Impala, Zebra, Ele’s, Topi, Gazelle, Hairy Necked Waterbuck, now that’s what has been written in the notes and I’m hoping it’s supposed to be a Defassa Waterbuck, Ostrich, Warthog, Zebra with a sleeping baby, Buffalo, Vultures, Marabou Stork, Secretary Bird, Crowned Crane, Black Backed Jackal, Baboon.
Got back in time to have breaky, grabbed our bags and head up to wait for word that the plane was about to arrive, James dropped us at the airstrip with all the other fatties, and lucky for us the plane actually took off with a big struggle.
After reading on Fodor’s about the weight of bags on little planes, we were pathetically conscious of not being over weight, not buying things we would have liked etc until we got past “the small plane”. So when we get to the parking area with our underweight bags, it was like OMG, the other bags were huge and the people were huge, and in all fairness I must admit that Lin and I aren’t lightweights either, we considered that Biddy who is small balanced us out.
We were the last to get on, and of course they filled the back of the plane first so we had to force our way through to the seats at the front with our backpacks in tow, we were told we should have left them at the back of the plane, so they got passed back over everyone’s heads and tossed at the back.
It was a little 14-seated plane, and I struggled to get enough air, really had to concentrate on everything but breathing.
The plane left about 15 – 20 minutes late, and it really struggled to actually get going. We were really worried about connecting with our International flight to Kilimanjaro, as we had a 20-minute change over.
Arrived at Wilson, Nairobi waited while they got our bags out of the plane and we verified that they were ours and they put Kilimanjaro labels on them. We were rushed into Immigration and the man wasn’t happy at all because the Immigration person wasn’t anywhere to be found so the grumpy Visa man had to process us, and then we were told to go to the toilet and then sit outside on the bench and wait, we were about to sit as requested but were then told the plane was ready, we looked around for the plane to learn the damn one we got off was the one we were getting back on, so much for panicking about missing our flight, this time the plane took off like a rocket with just 4 of us in it.
Arrived at Kilimanjaro and met Francis our next driver. Had a boxed lunch in the airport car park and then headed off for Lake Manyara.
On the way he pointed out Mt Meru and Kilimanjaro, also saw the signs for St Jude’s School, which we couldn’t visit because it was a Sunday and they were also on school holidays. We pay for the education of one of the students there.
We really noticed a lot of difference in Tanzania, the woman dressed differently, the roads were much better than in Kenya, lots of houses had started being built but the people had apparently run out of money before they were finished.
Passed through Kauta were there was a huge market along the train line, where the train to Nairobi stopped.
Then we went through a place called Makurmea, which had rice paddies and banana plantations.
Next big town was Arusha, which went on forever, high-rise buildings and traffic lights. Appears to be a much more affluent area.
We passed through Monduli, which is the Tanzania Military Academy
We noticed also that the kids in Kenya were much more friendly than here.
Masai herdsman tending their goats and cattle everywhere, some more friendly than others, which you can understand constantly living in a cloud of dust caused by the safari vehicles racing past. Masai on mobile phones out in the bush was interesting, yes I know they can, but it wasn’t what we expected, and anyway how come they can get a signal in the bush and we in Australia cant.
The countryside was quite green. Passed through Mtawanbu, which translates to river of mosquitos, it was a big town with a market and street artwork everywhere, which they left out in the weather over night.
We had a short game drive in Manyara National Park, which is the Western Escarpment of the Rift Valley, the other side of where we’d been in Kenya.
This area was like a rainforest, with lots of baboons, Sykes Monkeys, Bushbuck, and Silvery Cheeked Hornbill Birds, Impala, Ele’s, Masai Giraffe, Wildebeest, Eurasian Roller bird, Guinea Fowl, Warthogs, Buffalo also some elephants with a very little baby that couldn’t work it’s trunk, it stood in the middle of the road tossing a piece of grass around.
In the distance we saw lots of flamingoes on the lake, we also saw Dik Dik, Hippos and White Egret.
We headed up to the lodge as the park closes at 6.30, checked in to room 64 out of 67 another long trek. The room was another with mozzie nets over the beds making it very hot, but at least this room had a fan that didn’t really penetrate the nets.
We left the room to go up for dinner and a local guy materialized out of the bushes, he walked us up to the lounge/dining area. Actually he scared us as he kept appearing and disappearing out of nowhere.
We had a nice meal, not a buffet. The assistant manager introduced himself to us, saying only a couple of people were staying overnight.
Did a bit of shopping in the gift shop.

Great report Sallysaab, thanks for taking the time to write.

Sounds like you had great wildlife viewing with the Samburu lion kill, Nakuru flamingoes and all the Mara sightings. I smiled when you mentioned the baboons trying to invade rooms at the Mara Serena, as I saw 2 large baboons scale a balcony into a room, with 2 gardeners in hot pursuit during my 2005 stay.

Interested to read that you sponsor a student at St Jude's as I do too. I'm going to Gemma Sisia's presentation in Hobart this evening. Are you catching up with her in Sydney?
Looking forward to more...


Pol

Sallysaab, enjoying the continuing report but interested to know why you wouldn't return to Mara Serena as that is one of the places I am considering for next year.
It does sound like you have had wonderful sightings.

Treepol, no we dont get to meet Gemma, I'm actually on the Sunshine Coast, and we wanted to organize a function for her, but she wasnt interested, I'm guessing we just dont have the population here. It's a shame because it was to be a big African night,would have been loads of fun!
Loved to hear about your evening.

twaffle, no reason other than been there done that I guess.
The lodge was fine, staff were nice, food on the whole good, fabulous views, but we'd like to see the Mara from another situation. I havent checked anything else out, but perhaps a small tented situation.
Also when everyone headed out for the games drives, we virtually went the same way each time. my thoughts were to stay somewhere else and see a different area.

Did your Sunworld guide mention the Mara Bush Camp which they run? We thought we would combine the 2 as that would give us different areas. Mara Bush Camp doesn't sound as luxurious as some tented camps but that wouldn't worry us too much.

No twaffle, I worked out our itinerary and it was passed on to them for a quote.
Are you going to use them again?
And if so are you going directly through them?

sallysaab, can not wait for the next installment. Your report really got me excited to visit Samburu! And, I enjoy your writing style. I trust the fatties with their brollies will continue to have great sightings in the next segment. Dick

Dick thanks,
for the writing style which from here on changes a little.
I took with me a little HP Ipaq thingy with it's little foldout keyboard. We'd come back from the drive, have a cool drink, I'm now too scared to mention the F word, and I'd type up the notes, but at the Mara the little horror died. My scribe made notes and now I'm trying to piece it together.

Sally, I meant no offense with choice of words. I simply enjoyed reading how others at times see themselves. Like your situation, my wife often took copious notes which were invaluable weeks later.

OMG, the F above is for Fanta! in case you werent following my racing thoughts, sorry.

SS … am planning to use Sunworld again and would definitely book directly and would request Ken as all of us were so comfortable with him.
Were you happy with their services? Always worth knowing because if there are little things that could be arranged better, we can take that into account. We used Bush Homes last year and they were also great, but the places they use are too expensive for a family of 4.

twaffle, Sunworld were fine. We were in 3 different vehicles and the first was the most comfortable by far.
All were Landcruisers, but it was the configuration within the vehicle with the windows.
The first was the newest, next one needed little things repaired and from the back row of seats it wasnt easy to take photos out of the window. The last vehicle was the biggest, 3 rows of seats behind the driver and it was unbelievably uncomfortable.
If we could choose your Ken and the first vehicle we'd be as happy as larry.

Day 13 (30th March): Lake Manyara - Ndutu Conservation Area
Went on an early morning drive around the lake and saw bushbuck, warthogs, Impala, and a Batilla Eagle, Masai Giraffe, monkeys, baboon, yellow billed stork, hippo, buffalo, zebra, African white backed vulture, wildebeest, troop of baboons, Sykes Monkeys, Black backed Jackal, Dik Dik, African Grey Hornbill, Red collared bishop bird, ostrich and family chasing a jackal, Guinea Fowl, Elephants.
There were a lot of yellow barked Acacia Trees that fall over when it rains because of their lack of deep roots.
Went back to lodge for breaky, which was really rushed due to them taking so long, because again it wasn’t a buffet, didn’t realize scrambled eggs could take half an hour. Tried to beat the baggage collectors, it was hysterical, but they won in the end. Went to check out and they wouldn’t take Visa because it was under $US30 so had to pay cash.
After the kafuffle at reception, we noticed about 50 zebra bags being unloaded; glad we were leaving before the hordes arrived.
Headed off for Ndutu, on the way we saw Kori Bustards, then a Side-stripped Jackal, Thompson and Grant Gazelle, Banded Mongoose, Hartebeest, warthogs running as per usual, Zebra, Ostrich, lots of herding Masai along the road, Masai Giraffe, Wildebeest, ele’s.
We headed up and away from the lake, excellent views of the surrounding areas from the top.
It was a steep descent back in to the valley, with a sign telling you to Pole Pole, slow down, because of the sharp corners, we saw 2 trucks that had rolled.
Very pretty countryside with Masai villages all around. We noticed a big storm on the horizon and hoped it would make it this far. The area into Ndutu was extremely dry. Aadje and her staff greeted us, wanting to check out who was the problem guest with the Chilli allergy, assuring there wouldn’t be any Chilli whilst we were there. We were given room 15, 1 away from the reception for a change.
Walked in to the dining area to see 70 Belgium’s having lunch, and thought it was time to leave NOW! Luckily they were just there for lunch and heading for Lake Manyara.
Had an excellent lunch, followed by yet another quick bag re sort and a workout in the gift shop, where Lin totally tangled the mans beads, thankfully he was very patient.
On the afternoon drive, the weather had cooled right down and it looked like it would actually rain.
Lake Ndutu is a soda lake that was very very low due to no rain through March, which normally is their wettest month, and very little in previous months.
We saw Masai Giraffe, Secretary Bird, White Bearded Blue Wildebeest, Zebra, Plovers, Gazelle, 3 baby Hyenas with Mum 1 suckling, Mongoose, Leopard Faced Vulture, Eland, Eagle, Reedbuck, Buzzards and lovebirds as well. Also saw a couple of lions that according to Francis were Nomads and had been kicked out of the pride, then we saw a lioness that had obviously had babies, but we couldn’t see them anywhere.
Had a very nice dinner and the serval cat came and sat on the roof beams whilst we were having coffee.
This is a very nice place, a real homely type place, could stay here for a while. Our room was comfortable with the bare essentials. Dot had to lift her mattress partially off the bed to try and level it out.
Water was extremely scarce, had very quick soda water showers and the water was strange and you couldn’t dry yourself, you were kind of slippery. We didn’t do any washing because of the shortage of water.

Day 14 (31st March): Ndutu
Fantastic sunrise! Early morning game drive, and we saw Buzzard, Masai Giraffe, Thompson Gazelle, Zebra, Wildebeest, Kori Bustard Bird, pack of Hyena, Secretary bird, Vultures, Hyena chasing Gazelle, Black Backed Jackal hiding behind blade of grass from a Hyena, actually we watched him for a while, whilst he’d crouch down and then quickly look up to see where the jackal was and dive down again. 2 Lionesses and a Lion with very full bellies, another Lion, Eland, White Stork (immigrant from Europe), Elands jumping & kicking as we disturbed them, Hyena’s tucking into a left over kill, Vultures and Marabou Storks waiting for their turn, Side Stripped Jackals, Chestnut Sand Grouse, Albino Zebra, Tawny Eagle, Superb Starling, Warthogs running, Grass Mice, Fisches Lovebirds, Ostrich…no Eles!
Had breakfast out in the bush, out of the car, using the bonnet as a table, Zebras & other animals around us everywhere. Very Nice!
Back at lodge around 11am or so for coffee, lunch and a relaxing afternoon sitting in the lounge writing postcards etc. No one else around, very peaceful.
Thunderstorm finally arrived and it seriously rained. Had late afternoon drive. We saw Giraffe, Guinea Fowl, Zebra, Dik Dik & babies, Gazelle, Lilac Breasted Roller, Impala, Zebras having a nookie, Spotted Thick Knee Bird, Side Stripped Jackals.
By now Lin who was totally besotted with the Zebra, (Biddy that’s the short necked zebra not the long necked brown ones!) started seeing some zebra twice to the point where Francis said he was recognizing some them as well, p l e a s e! Although tragically we did keep seeing one baby zebra that broke our hearts, we’d be driving along and then “oh look at the little baby” and each time it was the same poor little chap with a broken foot, it got to where we started avoiding zebra’s.
It didn’t rain for the whole drive and the tracks became very muddy, we slipped and slid from one side to the other which I loved, the other two didn’t enjoy, and Francis, well it was helping him to build more muscles in his arms. Saw Wildebeest running & playing and doing dressage moves, Kori Bustard bird, Vulture eating a Zebra, Hares.
A very handsome Lion on side of road calling for his family, apparently lioness has 7 cubs seen by others at lunchtime right on the side of the road, but we had no luck in spotting them.
Returned to lodge a bit early because of wet conditions.
At Ndutu we saw the “tail enders” of the migration, there were still thousands of animals around and plenty of babies. Francis did drive us to a river where quite a few wildebeest didn’t make it, didn’t really need to see it.

Day 15 (01st April): Ndutu
Our day trip to the Serengeti was cancelled because we were worried about getting bogged due to the heavy rain, and the road out was the one we were on yesterday, and as we were heading back to the lodge several large trucks were trying to get through with great difficulty.
Aadje joined us for breakfast and was very informative telling us all about Ndutu’s history, also said that we wouldn’t see anything we hadn’t already seen by going in to the Serengeti, so, Lin advised Francis of the change of plans thinking he would cancel our lunch boxes, but NO. We sat around the lounge with Neeta and her husband, who were from Angola and passed a couple of hours easily chatting. We all headed off around 9.30 with lunch boxes, Francis still wanted to go to the Serengeti, but we were too worried about getting stuck out there. And as we intend to return another time, it wasn’t a huge drama for us.
We crossed to the other side of the lake, with the roof open for a little while, but had to close it because we were getting so wet.
We saw Impala, Black backed Jackal, Zebra, Hartebeest, albino Zebra, Laughing Dove, Wildebeest, Gazelle, Giraffe as well as 3 young giraffe, we were convinced the baby two were twins but Francis said they don’t have twins and who were we to question him, White Stork, Dik Dik, Crowned Crane, 2 lions eating a baby Zebra and no it wasn’t “that” one. The lions had just killed a pregnant Zebra, and the easiest way to describe it is they did a “C” section, we thankfully missed seeing it and once again didn’t stick around. Also Thompson Gazelle, Vultures on the ground wings spread out to dry, Black backed Jackal feeding on a wildebeest.
Came across “The Leopard Lady” parked under a tree and wondered what she was looking at. We looked up the tree for leopards and the nearby ground. Francis just said she should not be parked there as it has been raining and those trees fall over. We were convinced she wouldn’t have just been parked there, but he just drove on. Found out later the leopard lady was actually looking at leopards in the damn swamp the only place none of us checked out. Dot mentioned this to Francis the next day, he just denied it and said no she wouldn’t have been … Poor Francis was told the pressure was really on now, and we expected all the animals to be lined up in alphabetical order when we entered the Crater the next day.
We followed 2 other vehicles off the road a little bit to watch the jackal eating, the first vehicle got straight away, the second really struggled and we sat there digging in deeper, Francis got out to look for wood or something to put under the wheels. Nothing happened other than putting us in deeper, he phoned the second vehicle to come back and help us, and he arrived and wisely stayed on the firm road. After a lot of stuffing around and getting nowhere the first vehicle came back again.
After much discussion, he backed his vehicle in so he could tow us out with the shortest piece of wire we’d ever seen, and successfully got bogged worse than us. We suggested we all got of the vehicles but they didn’t want that, we also thought if they put the spare wheels in the holes they had dug for the sticks that they’d be able drive out over the wheels but no. And I guess because it was so wet and still raining they didn’t want us to disappear in to the mud as well. After wasting an hour or more the 2nd driver decided he’d go back and get something to help the 2 vehicles out, thankfully Neeta in his vehicle suggested he took the rest of us back with him. That meant much to the delight of Neeta’s husband, who’d heard of the story of “shoes by Sheldrick” that we’d have to paddle through the mud in our one and onlys, actually he expected we’d take our one and onlys off. We took 2 lunch boxes with us and left the other 2 with Francis.
We got back in time for the others to have their lunch while we ate ours back at our room. They race to the loo’s by everyone was hysterical!
Probably an hour or so after we returned the truck went out again and rescued the 2 bogged ones and they arrived back at the lodge around 3pm. We didn’t think Francis would want to go out again, as he was very wet and dirty, but he did so we headed out around 4pm.
Roads were very wet, slipped and slid, but we stayed on the main road, finally saw the lion family, several lions and possibly 5 cubs, from a distance. Also saw Hildebrand Starling, Zebra, Impala, Dik Dik, and finally some Eles. Giraffe, Kestrel, Gazelle and baby, Leopard Tortoise, that’s now two “sort of leopards” also a family of Giraffe with 2 young chaps, Black backed Jackal, Wildebeest, also a Zebra lying down, very very pregnant, looked like it was about to give birth, although that’s our story and we’re sticking to it.
Repacked our bags for the millionth time!
We loved Ndutu, food was fabulous and the staff great and US$ are the way to go. Mobile phones are a no no! Not that ours worked anyway.

sallysaab,

And here I thought I offended you in regards to use of terms fatties and brolly!

Which lodge/camp in the Ndutu area?

As with the previous reports, enjoyed the most recent especially with mentioning of bishop bird, the chestnut-bellied sandgrouse and a couple others we have not seen. Also, to think we have been on the northern circuit three times seeing numerous leopards but never a leopard tortoise!

Dick, thinking back on it now the darn brolly's were useless, we got very wet, but they were very compact!
It was Ndutu Safari Lodge http://www.ndutu.com/index.html
Numerous leopards, now your being cruel!
Seriuosly though, we got up close and personal with the leopard in Nairobi NP, even got to touch him when he pushed past the fence purring.

“Didn’t realize scrambled eggs could take half an hour” and the lunch boxes no matter what are both funny typical Africa snippets.


“Had a very nice dinner and the serval cat came and sat on the roof beams whilst we were having coffee.” This would be like dining with the Queen to me.

I hope your animals do indeed line up in alphabetical order for you at the crater.

sally, a question about Nairobi NP. Wife and I have tentative plans to visit there on free day we have in Nairobi before flying to Samburu next day. Hindsight being what it is was it worth the time for you? We have been to the giraffe center and the Karen B museum so thought it might be interesting to see np practically in a major city. Or, is it too much like a big zoo?
Thanks
Dick

Dick, I'm probably not the to ask, because we wasted 3/4 hour sitting out the front and we only had about an hour there. We saw some of the Safari Walk at a run, then jogged down to the Orphanage for a quick sprint.
Was it worth it, as in dont miss it, not really.
Hehehe although we did see a leopard!
Maybe someone else would help out here.

Enjoying your report and I thought we were the only ones who didn't see a leopard when we were in Kenya in 2006, but did see 2 leopard tortoises.

Joyce

sally -

“Had a very nice dinner and the serval cat came and sat on the roof beams whilst we were having coffee.”

Reminded me (my '07 visit) of the serval (Paka) that came to sit on my lap during dinner and then followed me back to my cottage, popped into the bed to make himself comfy on the next pillow. Sadly, he left in the middle of the night... first time a guy ever did that with me

Joyce -

I didn't see a leopard till my 4th or 5th safari. And, then this year, had a leopard all to myself in the Mara without another vehicle for miles. Your day will come!

Regarding Nairobi NP, I think there is the orphanage and Safari Walk and then there is the park in general. I've been investigating a morning visit prior to my noon flight this Aug. The walk is an additional charge--I forget how much--from the traditional game drive.

Way back in 1994 I recall doing the walk and seeing the zoo (I am sure both have been upgraded since) and then going on a regular guided drive through the park. The walk/zoo were ok, but I was captivated with the safari. It was my first safari experience and we had close encounters with giraffe, we saw antelope, zebra, monkeys, and my first cheetah.

The view of animals in the foreground and buildings in the background, while not pristine, is certainly unique. I don't recall the game drive feeling zoo-like, but the walk and orphanage definitely felt that way, but that's what I'd expect from an animal orphanage.

Since '94 I think the park has suffered some tough challenges, but I've booked a couple hour game drive (that's all the time I have, what's recommended is a 4-hour excursion) to check it out again.

Rsnyder, you'll probably be gone by then.

Sallysaab, Nice to encounter a leopard!

This link might be of interest.
http://www.blogcatalog.com/blog/nairobi-national-park

Thanks atravelynn for the link. Allowing for seasonal differences(we will be there in Nov)good chance we may add to birds we have seen in East Africa based on April 09 report there. We not necessarily avid birds (with extensive check lists, etc) but certainly adds another dimension to the wildlife variety in East Africa.
Dick

All 3 parts have separate fees. The Safari Walk is $20pp, the Orphanage is $15pp and the park itself is $40pp plus the vehicle fee http://www.kws.go.ke/KWS%20Park%20Entry%20Fees%202009.pdf

The former 2 are basically zoo like with caged animals at the orphanage and a more open setting at the Safari Walk (you walk around on elevated platforms). I probably wouldn't go back to either one. I haven't been on a game drive in the park.

Thanks for the above comments everyone.
I'm also getting the feeling I should finish this thread so here is the last of it:

Day 16 (02nd April): Ngorongoro Conservation Area - Sopa Lodge
Had breakfast without Aadje because Virginia was there. She’s an 80-year-old American who stays for a month each year.
Heading for the Crater we saw Dik Dik, Giraffe, Hartebeest, Buffalo, Vulture, Marabou Storks, White Storks, Zebra, Wildebeest, Thompson’s Gazelles, Ostrich, Jackals, Grants Gazelle, Baboon, Masai herding goats and donkeys.
Stopped at the Olduvai Gorge for toilet stop and museum, we found it to be very interesting.
Lin and Biddy loved the toilets, which were starting blocks, yuk!
Bumped into the nice Americans again and spoke to the guy who was a retired Vet about broken legs, they’d unfortunately seen more than we had, we still feel we should have been able to help the baby Zeb. Bought stuff from the stalls in US$ and didn’t get hassled.
Went on to the Sopa Lodge room 9 of 99, a huge room, amazed we didn’t get room 99.
Had lunch on arrival, which was very nice. Used the Internet which was very cheap and very slow.
Had a lazy afternoon washing and repacking the bags, again!

Day 17 (03rd April): Ngorongoro - Sopa Lodge
We left the lodge at 6.30 with breaky boxes and it was long winding road down to the Crater.
Today was Francis’s last chance to find the Big 5, and the pressure was really on!
Not really.
But we did see Eland, Guinea Fowl, Zebra, Buffalo, Pin tailed whydah, black and white bird with very long tail (?), Grants Gazelle, Thompson’s Gazelle, Wildebeest, Vulture, Hyena, Sparrow Larks, Black backed jackal, Warthog, Black and white Stork, Lion, Lioness and cubs, Spa winged geese, hippos, Bat Eared Fox, Elephants, Side stripped Jackal, Black Rhino, Crowned Cranes doing the court ship dance, Ostrich, and a lot of ele bones.
We had breaky at the Hippo Pool Ngoitokitok Springs, and reasonable toilets, actually got out of the vehicle and wandered around, a very pretty place, saw Egyptian Goose, Cuttle Egrets, Long tailed cormorant, African Jacana, Spekes Weaver birds oh and of course hippo’s.
After moving on from the pool, we saw Crowned Cranes, and more ele bones and the remains of a buffalo, 2 very big very full lions, mongoose, lioness, rhino and youngster, lesser flamingoes, greater flamingoes, hyenas by the lake trying to get the flamingoes, Marabou Storks, Kori Bustard, Buzzards, lots of wildebeest with young.
As we climbed out of the crater we saw zebra, that no one recognized, and baboons, disappointed we didn’t see the big 5 but there’s always another day. The scenery in and around the crater was spectacular.
Have never given much thought about “The Big 5” and after much discussion we learnt that it’s actually the most dangerous 5.
Lunch and dinner back at the lodge, the staff sang a few songs and were very good.
Back to the room to repack our bags, again!
The Sopa Lodge was okay, food was good, staff very friendly, room comfortable.

Day 18 (04th April): Ngorongoro - Kilimanjaro Airport - Nairobi. - New Stanley
Whilst at breaky a fellow who we spoke with yesterday said he heard a noise in the middle of the night and looked out the window to be face to face with a buffalo, and we were going to put our washing out there on the grass!
Headed off immediately after breakfast for the long trip back to Kilimanjaro.
We didn’t find the long distances to be a problem other than the roads, and that was more in Kenya, and I remember thinking at one stage that I’d give anything for my internal organs not to battered for a couple of minutes! But there was so much of interest to see along the way, I think driving at least once is essential.
We stopped at a lookout before we headed down to the flats, fabulous view over Lake Manyara.
We went straight to Kilimanjaro Airport, our Safari Link plane was cancelled due to lack of interest or something similar and we were transferred to Air Kenya, who are always late and were!
The plane was supposed to leave at 1.50 but didn’t leave until about 2.45.
Couldn’t by anything at the airport because they wouldn’t take Visa Card, ended buying a packet of chips for lunch.
Arrived at Nairobi Wilson and were shoved around the place because the President was arriving, and he wouldn’t wait for us to leave. As we were about to leave and meet the driver, we were told our luggage had to go back on the trolley and we’d be taken out another exit.
Dot got in a panic because we couldn’t find the driver and was worried we’d miss out on going to Sheldrick’s, but luckily one of the airport staff had gone to find him.
William from Sunworld picked us in a most uncomfortable 4wd, and took us out to Sheldricks where we had to wait an hour before we could see the babies, and to add to the stress we weren’t even on the visitors list.
Had an enjoyable time with the babies, the latest arrival Isiolo had only arrived at 2pm that arvo, and we were lucky enough to meet Dame Daph.
Oh one thing I forgot, the 2nd time at Sheldrick’s I spotted a woman I’d seen on Fodor’s, I’d stolen a photo of her and a baby ele taken I think a couple of years ago, she was pretty involved with the ele’s and a keeper so I just asked if she posted on Fodor’s, she was stunned!
Back to the Stanley Hotel, the traffic was amazing, especially around Central Station, packed solid with people, cars, buses etc really quiet a scary place to be, but a block or two away, the streets were quiet.
We got upgraded to room across from the nightclub again, thump, thump, thump, not staying there again. We watched a naked, or not, man doing a show upstairs, had everyone including the staff watching. Back to the room to repack our bags for the ongoing flight.
Won’t stay at the Stanley Serena again, but only because of the nightclubs.

Day 19 (05th April): Early departure Nairobi - Metcourt Laurel
William picked us at 5am for our ongoing flight. William is Masai, and it was really interesting hearing stories of his childhood etc
It was an easy check in, except we had to fill in “entry forms” for our departure, which really confused everyone.
On arrival in J’burg looked a round the shops and had lunch at the Mugg & Bean before heading over to the transit center for the Big Black Hotel Bus.
Checked in to hotel, and then went to the Casino to find a drink, not Fanta Leely, which was a challenge and not very enjoyable, ended up having to hang off the bar, then thought we’d go and have a go on the pokies, except the damn things wouldn’t take our money no matter where we shoved it.
Went back to the Piazza to have dinner in the Italian Restaurant, the waiter was nice to start with and then became very hard to find, we had to keep asking for the bill even saying we’d go with out it.

Day 20 (06th April): J'burg - De Wildt overnight
Paul picked us up on behalf of Johnny of King Cheetah Tours who was at Durban, and drove us out to De Wildt and straight to the lodge. Had a stunning lunch, really nice lodge, a beautiful old house converted. With a lovely dog called Sebastian. After lunch we were picked up by Anita, a volunteer working for De Wildt as a guide and went on a 3 hour Private Tour. Very informative, Anita was very knowledgeable. After the tour we did some shopping in the gift shop, had our photos taken with Charlotte.
Back to the lodge for a beautiful dinner, after which the staff just went home. We were amazed, as we were told nothing, until I asked what we should do about the doors, the last to bed was to close them. In the morning we came down stairs, all the lights were still on, not sure if the Poms closed the doors or not.

Day 21 (07th April): De Wildt - Elephant Sanctuary - Southern Sun Grayston
An early breaky before we were picked up at 7.45 to go for the Cheetah Run. We saw Sharka, Charlotte and Shakespeare run.
After which Rita decided that Lin should have the opportunity to see Cleo, her Cheetah who was on Lovers Lane. She asked Ann Van Dyk the owner, who agreed, as we’d come so far. Saw 4 12-month cheetahs on our way to Cleo.
We raced back to the lodge as Benny was picking us up at 9.30 to go to the Elephant Sanctuary.
Arrived at 10am and by the time we found our way along the track to the office we were a little late. 3 elephants were brought through in to a sheltered area. Temba a 9-year-old elephant was the one we interacted with. Basel was his keeper.
We all got up close and personal and had elephant kisses, better described as “sucking face”, rubbed his tummy, touched his foot etc etc. I was amazed how warm to touch he was and how soft compared to Sheldrick’s babies, who I guess are sort of stiff from all the mud and oil they cover them with, also Temba’s trunk was very firm as opposed to the babies which were very lolloppy(?), ok, limp!
We then went on a short informative tour whilst waiting for our turn to do the elephant trunk in hand walk, where you actually hold on to the tip of his trunk.
Had a great lunch, 3 courses dirt cheap, Benny came looking for us because we were a little late to go nowhere in particular.
We headed back to J’burg with a bit of a look at Pretoria, went to Jasmyn Farm Stall, which had all sorts of produce in it. They make their own milk, butter, cheeses, yoghurt etc as they have a dairy attached. The fruit etc was dirt cheap, and looked beautiful.
Benny took us up to the Government Buildings with beautiful gardens and market stalls.
And then on to Sandton Grayston Hotel another place we wont go back to. In future we’ll try and stay at The Michelangelo on Sandton Square because of where it’s situated at Nelson Mandela Square.
We had a buffet dinner at the hotel, and shared a small bottle of Moet for Dots 60th. We had wanted to go to a better restaurant in Nelson Mandela Square, but we were told we couldn’t go out safely at night, very disappointed.
We were also very worried about the fridge in the room, as it was unbelievably hot, we asked the staff to turn it off, but they didn’t so we had to pull the cupboard apart. It had all but boiled the milk.


Day 22 -23 (08th - 9th April): J'burg - Sydney - Intercontinental Hotel
We had breakfast at the Hotel and waited for Benny to pick us up at 9.30, we were supposed to go on a tour of J’burg but it didn’t happen. We ended up going to Sandton Shopping Center and Nelson Mandela Square, and then Benny picked us up at 11.30 and very slowly took us to the airport. We didn’t see anything of J’burg. Arrived at the airport at around 1pm for our flight at 6pm. Not at all happy with King Cheetah Tours and quite frankly wouldn’t recommend them. We did contact Johnny the owner who promised to return our money for the Wednesday, we unfortunately paid up front, and when I queried the lack of contact from his satellite office he said he didn’t know we were back in Australia because he couldn’t smell we were home!
Had lunch at Mugg & Bean again and the staff welcomed us back, must have made a lasting impression on our first stop, and then went and got in the check in queue which had opened early. Lin and Biddy found out that they had been upgraded to Premium Economy.
Did some Duty Free Shopping and hung a round for the plane, which didn’t take off on time, because once again some moron checked in their bags and didn’t make the flight, we left about hour late.
It was an uneventful flight, really quite easy, Premium Economy is the way to go. The Business Class people wandering around in their PJ’s was interesting.

SUMMARY

Everything really went without a hitch, and a big thank you to twaffle and atravelynn and others for putting up with me over the 3 years of planning.

None of the lodges we stayed at were busy, except the Crater Sopa had probably around 40 people.

We probably went at the wrong time of year, but I wanted my b’day in Africa and the migration wasn’t a priority as strange as that may seem to some.

Samburu Serena, was great, really loved the area, and will definitely go back.
Sweetwater’s Tented Camp was fine, and I would imagine after the rains it would be stunning.
Lake Nakuru Sarova Lion Hill Lodge and the Lake Manyara Serena Lodge were fine.
Mara Serena Lodge was fine, the Mara unbelievable.
Ndutu was great, loved the area.
Ngorongoro Crater, the Sopa Lodge was fine. The Crater amazing, although we did expect to see a larger volume of animals. And once again is this an area

We took as suggested plenty of US$1, as well as other denominations and Travelers Cheques. We carried the different denominations in our pretty swish, clip lock bag wallets. When working out spending money we didn’t take in to account buying drinks, didn’t give it a thought really.
Even though the lodges gave you water we still bought several big bottles per day, and generally had water with each meal. Also Sunworld provided water in the vehicles. We also took some Collidal Silver with us, it’s a natural antibiotic that has been used for thousands of years, and we’d put a cap full in our bottles of water each day.
We didn’t use any of the copious amount of medical supplies we’d taken.
For the long plane trips we took Frequent Flyer Health Boost tablets and I used Frequent Flyer Nasal Spray, as soon as I get on a plane someone nearby sneezes all over the place, and with out fail I get a cold.

Thanks for the report … now for the serious question. When do you plan to return and where are you going to go?

Also, thanks for the report. And, your sense of humor in dealing with all the quirks of the trip was appreciated. I trust you will be back. Looking forward to seeing photos if you are gonna share. Dick

twaffle, that's a damn good question, we'd like to go next year, but with current economic situation I can't see that happening, so maybe '11.
Where, Amboseli, Tsavo, Tarangire, 50 visit's to Sheldricks, it's up for a heated discussion, because there's also Botswana and I really enjoyed the "freeness" of the Timbavati.
Where are you off to next year?

Dick for you there will be photos. It's an awesome task sorting the 3 lots out, and being a smarty I thought I'd put say Samburu in a folder and then sort them according to the time the picture was taken, WRONG! The 3 cameras were all on different times.The girls took about 700+ and I 2800, I had the camera on rapid shoot as we drove through some of the little towns etc, so there's been some serious culling.
But hopefully in a week or so if I havent gone nuts!

Next year I am hoping for Tsavo East & West (Ithumba to go walking with the orphans), and then Amboseli. Drive to Mara via Lake Naivasha to do some birding. Mara for 6 nights if I can manage it. Nothing North of Nairobi this time. Hopefully all driving in our own 4x4 with Ken driving.

Then Southern Tanzania the following year and Botswana the year after. Do you think Kevin Rudd will introduce another stimulus which will pay for all this travel?

Take me take me!
Can you actually go walking with the eles?
We met a woman who said she going on an exclusive private visit, just her, the keepers & the babies, at a cost of US$500, awesome, have you heard of it?
Have you been to Lake Naivasha before?
Well you've certainly got the next couple of years organzied.
And Kevin747, nope he wont, we're now in debt to our eyeballs!

I am pretty certain the woman you met would have been going to Ithumba. Patty is going later this year so she will be able to report more. It is $500 per night to book the whole camp. You self cater and can spend all your time with the keepers and the elephants (I believe). I suppose it depends a bit on what is going on. As you have your own vehicle (you need that to get there) you can do game drives around the place as well.

This is the link which Patty posted before describing JanGoss's trip there. You might remember reading it once you see the report.

http://www.fodors.com/community/africa-the-middle-east/kenya-trip-report---tsavo---feb-2006.cfm

Haven't been to Lake Naivasha for many years. We had friends who farmed on the Lake shore, dairy, not flowers. In the days before the hyacinth took over the lake.

I also had a close friend whose father and brother were killed by hippos on Lake Naivasha so it holds mixed memories.

I've read a report from someone who accompanied the orphans on bush walks and I've also read reports from those who didn't. Perhaps it's a case by case thing or depends on the length of your stay. The person who did go on walks had a longer stay. Regardless, I believe you get to spend time with the orphans in the morning, around noon for their mudbath and again in the evening. Whatever we end up doing will be fine with me. We plan to do game drives as well. I don't think game is plentiful in the area but figured we'd have a look around.

Wow, okay so now we have to do some very serious saving. I knew you could stay at Ithumba.
twaffle I'm sorry to hear about your friends family, what a tragedy.
Have you decided on where to stay in the Mara?
I wish there was a site that listed accommodation and the number of guests.

Still considering the Serena/Bush Camp split but I have time up my sleeve still to consider options. Always worried that I'll chose the wrong place as I really wanted to stay at Serian but can't afford it for the whole family.

Thanks again for a great report! You made me laugh out loud more than once. Sounds like a wonderful trip, and you gave good feedback on some popular lodges, so I'm sure it will be helpful to others planning their own trips. Hope you make it back to Africa in 2011!

MDK, thank you, I was wondering if it was too long and uninteresting. We took your report that pertained to where were going with us as a reference.
2011 will happen because I'm winning Lotto on Saturday night!
Can I ask, photos, I have "street" shots of towns we drove through would they be of interest, but we cant put names to them, it would be "on the way to Samburu"?

Definitely not too long (if you read MY 10,000-page report, how can you even ask such a thing?!), and very interesting, sallysaab! You have a great sense of humor -- I bet you're a fun person to travel with.

Speaking for myself, I love to see those out-the-window street shots, even if you're not sure what the names of towns are. It's always interesting to see glimpses into everyday life in these countries, especially since we don't get much exposure to that as tourists. I'm happy to look at whichever photos you think capture the spirit of your trip best.

I agree with MDK, post some street view shots as they are not so often posted and would be interesting in the context of your journey.

Thanks. The photos are a bit daunting, confusing and could turm me into a raving lunatic. But I'm working on it and it seems Picasa will be the way to go. I'll post details here when it's done.
MDK, thank you for your kind words, you must have known I needed a boost.

sally, I too welcome seeing candid local shots. And, I appreciate the efforts by the taker to label ones re:lodges/camps, unique settings, key wildlife and the like. I know I don't ask for much!! But, loads of us are looking forward to seeing yours as much as we enjoyed reading about Lin, Biddy and Sally. Dick

But there was so much of interest to see along the way, I think driving at least once is essential.

I totally agree. I have just caught up with the rest of your report--and, like Dick, am eagerly looking forward to photos.

Was this trip really 3 years in the making? Wow, I admire your patience.

Thanks again, sallysaab. It's reports like yours that sustain me during the many years between African safaris.

Yep Leely, my first question was July 16 '06. I first went to Africa with my Mum(with Alzehiemers) and my sister(her idea) in April '05. Cape Town, Timbavati, Vic Falls & Chobe and was totally smitten.
I think the count started at 660 days!
The itinerary changed many times, the trip cost a fortune!
But we learnt heaps, next one will be planned very differently.
And the photos, I'm now feeling the pressure!
Actually I was just thinking back on the trip and somewhere we passed bananas and all burst into that, I Sesame St song Ban nanna na or whatever, much to Francis's delight.
Did I tell you about the not so good looking Asian guy who thought he was ultra cool! On his damn mobile at the Mara lodge the whole time, loudly so we all heard, and then out on the game drive he and his kids were probably heard back in Nairobi, grrrrrrrr

No pressure, but do post photos at some point. Your report is not too long at all.

A small miracle has occurred, a selection of photos for family, friends & Fodors, I hope it is at:

http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/sredir?uname=Ourafrica2009&target=ALBUM&id=5339277608279354625&authkey=Gv1sRgCLvnjcavzb_Sag&authkey=Gv1sRgCLvnjcavzb_Sag&feat=email

No they are not enhanced in any way & they've been taken by 3 different basic camera', and I hope I never see another damn photo again!!!!!
Twaffle thanks yet again for your help.

Thanks for taking the time to figure out how to post your pictures. Enjoyed your trip report and seeing your pictures.

The album works perfectly, thanks for persevering . I am amazed that you were able to name all the orphans, well done. I just take lots of photos and then think afterwards that I should have named them. Maalim is just too cute. I especially liked all the street views, something which is often missed when we race from one park to another. It gives a good feel for a country.

Looking forward to your next planning thread!

Thanks for the trip report and the pictures I loved your "road to" pictures. I'll be on some of the same roads three weeks from now.

Wow! What a nice way to begin my morning--seeing your photos! Really enjoyed and appreciated the effort that went into the project. Linn and her Temba applied make-up was too much!! Thanks for the memories--I recognized several landmarks along your "roads" And, you really knew how to take advantage of some great lighting particularly in the drive into the N. Crater. Looking foward to hearing/seeing more of Dot, Linn, Biddy,... Dick

"I hope I never see another damn photo again!!!!!"
Also chuckling at "Here comes Michelle again." I think she'd chuckle too.

Re the photos: You had some playful lions in Samburu and rhinos galore in Nakuru. I believe that is a Martial Eagle on the ground. What a great shot. Beautiful crater scenery. How lucky to be treated like a termite mound by the cheetahs. I'll have to read about that and your stay at DeWildt.

Thanks guys for your kind words, makes it worth while.
It's also a great way to relive the trip.
One thing that we've bought as a result of this trip is a Kookaburra Portable Toilet http://www.discountcamping.com.au/index.php?page=products&pagesubid=toilets&pageid=showers.
I remember reading the "Toilet' thread a couple of years ago, it had me in hysterics, but I think the above is the solution.
Lynn, thanks for the name of the Eagle, I dont have a book to reference that against.
Siro12, as bumpy as the roads were, it was worth doing at least once, I look forward to reading your report.
Dick, your my hero!!!!!!

How can anyone help themselves from not clicking on a link for a Kookaburra Toilet. I still have to read the rest of the report but I got sidetracked by the Kookaburra Toilet.

MyDogKyle, we had your room at the Mara Serena, we were wondering about the MDK carved into the bench.
And thanks for $50 you left under the bed for us!

Ha ha!

If Lin and Biddy loved the starting block toilets, I'm sure they'll be very happy with the Kookaburra Toilet.

Crowned cranes doing their courtship dance is a lovely and lucky sight in the crater.

An audience with Dame Daphne is more good luck!

The naked or not man doing a show upstairs at the Stanley Serena is intriguing, but not intruiging enough to stay there and lose precious sleep.

"Couldn't smell you were home," is one of the lamest and at the same time one of the most innovative excuses I've heard.

You are most welcome for any assistance I may have provided during your 3 year planning process. I think you went at the right time of year based on everything you saw and the fact that Crater Sopa had so few people.

Thanks for the info on the travel health aids and for sharing a wonderful and humorous report. I hope you can post 50 more for each of your upcoming Sheldrick visits.