Kenya Riots: updates from the ground?

We are still going (Baringo, Nakuru, Maasai Mara in about 10 days) ... according to our safari operator the problems are limited to certain slums in Nairobi, the coast and a couple of western towns but none of the typical tourist spots have seen problems thus far. Airports and main roads are open.

Here's what he sent me as of Jan 2:

Nairobi is basically back to normal, and I have yet to have a tourist see anything of any kind. I've not even seen any of the violence personally yet either !! It is all in the western cities of Kisumu and Eldoret some 300 miles away or deep in the slums.

Nairobi airport and roads to and from it are absolutely unaffected.
I've had over 50 guests come and go over the last 3 days and all have
been fine, and all of our safaris to date have operated quite normally.

Infact the US Warden comments posted on State Dept Website dates Dec 31 were absolutely inaccurate - it was flights to Kisumu ONLY that
were cancelled for 2 days (they have since resumed), and it was the
airport road in MOMBASA that was temporarily blocked for a few hours.

Nakuru and Baringo have been quite okay, the only place on your route
that experienced some demonstrations on Dec 31 was Narok on the way to Mara - and nothing since then and I have had several groups drive through there today without any difficulty. This is an easy leg to fly, even to arrange at short notice - so I think we can easily wait a little while and see how things pan out on that road. Otherwise I feel we can operate your trip pretty much as planned.

There is a demonstration planned for Nairobi tomorrow. I am sure it
will be somewhat violent, but at the same time constrained to within
the slum areas by the security forces, so we will not see anything
other than the images on the TV. However I think the weekend that
follows will really determine what the future holds for us all.

Thanks, Bill.

I did see this post from you on the other thread.

On the BBC website forum a British ex-pat living in a wealthy Nairobi neighbourhood wrote to say that ATMS have no money, food is short and fuel is hard to find outside the city.

Another man said they were "lounging around" their hotel, but just weren't going on city tours.

I'm not a nervous traveller, but this situation does seem a little unnerving.

As a news reporter in another life, I view the headlines with much wariness and know there's much more good stuff than what the press tells us. Good news doesn't make good headlines.

I'd love to hear from others who have contacts in and around the safari community.

I don't leave until the 13th.

I, too, am still going. I leave tomorrow and arrive in NBO on Monday morning (36 hours in Paris).

I spoke with my TA, in Kenya, on the phone and he said basically the same thing that Bill H has posted from his TA.

I am much of the same mindset your are, photogal. It has been a lot of planning, anticipation, etc etc to get to this point and, selfish or not, I'm going.

As a side note, my mother and I arrived in London, in 1986, the morning that the U.S. had bombed Libya. We got caught up in a HUGE demonstration on Oxford street, with a lot of screaming and yelling about Americans. We just kept our mouths shut and carried on about our business until we were out of the area.

Strangely enough, this is the first time I've traveled internationally with my mom since then. hmmmmm lol

I say, go on your trip, enjoy yourself, and have a most fantastic time.

Shane

Have a GREAT time, Shane.

Thanks for the input.

Another update from our man in Nairobi, from Jan 3:

Nairobi had some skirmishes today - but the police did a
great job in containing it all to the slum areas, and throughout the
week access to airports and Nairobi hotels has been fine.

The rest of the route of your itinerary (Baringo, Nakuru, Mara) was absolutely calm - including Narok where I had several groups drive through.

So logistically all is well - it is just our image that has been trashed.

Hi photogal,

For what it's worth, I'm still going, but have made some changes to my itinerary. Was due to arrive Jan. 5 in Nairobi to start two week safari in Kenya and Tanzania. I've changed my plans to fly into Tanzania next week, where I'll proceed with my original itinerary. Then I'll go to Kenya. My itinerary there is the same as planned - Amboseli and Tsavo - although in reverse order and I have lost out on Ol Tukai. I'm hoping the situation will be a bit calmer by then.

The changes also allowed me to eliminate the public bus ride from Arusha to Nairobi, which I was uncomfortable with.

I admit to a little nervousness, but don't want to give up my trip either as it is very important to me.

Hope this helps.

I am still planning on going - departure date is January 14. I have never ever taken a tour before, but I am not sorry I chose to go with Micato for my first African experience. Micato has telephoned and e-mailed with frequent updates. Tours are continuing, but
Micato did cancel Nairobi activities for at least one group (and substituted an extra day in the bush).
Jess

jess - I'll bet your are very happy right now that you chose a first class outfit like Micato (A&K also). You know they will keep you informed and take care of you.

regards - tom

Thanks to all posting here, special thanks to those who are forwarding reports from Kenya like Bill. PLEASE KEEP THEM COMING!

Have not heard from Kennedy today.

I am supposed to leave NY 1/10 and was waiting to see what would happen after the rally today which was cancelled. Thought it would be easier to make a "go or no go" decision after the rally but with it postponed until Tuesday that leaves us just Wed to decide. I am hoping that Desmond Tutu, etc. can bring peace to Kenya and the rally will be cancelled.

Right now our options are as follows:
A-Continue with trip as planned leaving 1/10, then 2 nights in Nairobi, tour with Kennedy 1/12 and fly to Arusha 1/13 to join Tauck.
B-Keep planned flight into Nairobi, overnight (1 night only) then change flight out of Wilson into Arusha and arrive there one day early. Cancel tour with Kennedy.
C-Change flight to arrive into Nairobi one day later (may not be possible since I used frequent flyer miles 6 months ago) overnight then fly to Arusha to join tour.
Cancel tour with Kennedy.

Any thoughts??
Ilene

I'm still going too. Leave the US on Jan 16th arriving in NBO on the 17th.

One night in NBO, two nights in the Chyulu Hills, another night in NBO, to Rwanda for 7 nights, to Tanzania for 5 nights, then back to Kenya for 5 nights.

Haven't changed anything from my original itinerary.

Bill H,
Who is your tour operator in Africa?
Ilene

I'm still going too but I don't leave until Jan 26th.

There was a post on LP by someone who said their flight leaving Entebbe had to refuel en route because there was not enough fuel available in Entebbe for the flight due to problems in Kenya. Don't know how other flights will be affected. My trip isn't until April.

Ilene
What have you heard from Tauck about the situation?
Jess

I'm scheduled to leave on the 18th.
Our guide here in Canada is keeping us advised.
While there's no question the situation in Kenya is awful, I agree that the media often exaggerate the worst.
I, too, used to work as a reporter, and the battle is ongoing to balance a good story with an attention-grabbing headline.
I hope folks leaving in the next few days will be able to post back their review of what's happening on the ground.

Did Micato not warn their clients about the upcoming elections and did they not suggest to restrict/cancel/postpone certain activities or adapt their tours accordingly?

Several East African based outfitters did exactly this.

Riots and such have been expected for months. The current events should not be surprising although the scope is certainly sad and devastating for so many poor Kenyans.

No-where in the world will you find me on a 20-seat tour bus filled with camera-wielding tourists after a controversial election!

Micato are using 20-seaters?!?

Sorry for I am new in Kenya. If I'd like to visit some spots as below from JKIA, will it pass through or locate at the slum area which may cause danger?

*Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage
*Giraffe Centre
*Karen Blixen Museum
*Carnivore
*The Junction

Any information is appreciated.

My contact on the ground got an sms Thursday morning saying “The Government of Kenya advises you not to take part in any unlawful assembly that may result in violence”. People were also warned not to go to town, but he had to do it anyway. He only had to walk 5 kilometres, so that was better. The main problem is food.

Hello cssuen,
You don’t have to pass through any slums to go to the places mentioned. Why are you going to the Junction?

Hi Nyamera

Thanks a lot! The reason for visiting the Junction is window-shopping at collection of upscale shops/boutiques there. Do you have any recommendation for us? By the way, what time do they usually open in the morning?

Our friend returned from Kenya yesterday - she flies for Kenya Airways. She's a little highly strung at times, but here are some things she had to say that sounded like fact:

The Nairobi-Bangkok flight was delayed because so few of the pilots wanted to leave their families right now - many were trying to avoid doing long-haul flights.

The Thorn Tree was deserted. Nairobi was like a 'ghost town'.

There are some food shortages in Nairobi and people are looting supermarkets at night (I don't know if the food shortages are yet so bad as to put the two together, as she did, based on what locals told her). The shortages have happened so quickly because the crisis happened right after Christmas, when most businesses were closed or on "go slow" anyway.

The Intercontinental still had food but she avoided it because of rumours that it was old and potentially unhygenic (she had some food she had brought from Thailand) - note RUMOURS.

She saw a little looting, but not much. The streets were very quiet.

None of her Kenyan colleagues seemed to have left their homes in the 2-3 days prior to the flight.

She was pretty concerned and really quite scared on the drive from the hotel to the airport (imagination, mostly?), is not currently planning to resign or refuse to fly, but may reconsider if things worsen. She is confused that Kenyans are doing this and that confusion is making her fearful because she thinks maybe she understands nothing at all about the situation and has no basis on which to judge how secure or not she is.

She was so very, very happy to be home facing Thailand's political crisis and disputed election!

I noticed the UK govt. have advised against any but essential travel for now...

Personally, I'd still go.

Fuel shortages have been reported. One thing to monitor is whether or not the supply of Avgas and Jet fuel is sufficient: if not, those relying on charters or scheduled domestic flights (esp out Wilson) are at risk for flight disruptions.

So sorry to hear about all this still going on. I have--perhaps naive and unjustified--faith in the Kenyan people, although of course their rancor seems to be justified.

"...I agree that the media often exaggerate the worst.
I, too, used to work as a reporter, and the battle is ongoing to balance a good story with an attention-grabbing headline..."

Having been to Rwanda in the aftermath of that horror, and knowing about Dafur I am shocked that someone could say the above.

We must NEVER again turn a blind eye to events that point to ethnic cleansing or similar.

People are being hacked to death in Kenya and burned alive in churches. Sound familiar?

Try to watch images on TV stations from countries outside the US and you will see this is not an "exaggeration".

I agree with Eben. I was a news reporter/supervisor for 40 years, so am more aware than most people of both the shortcomings and the value of the news media. Outright dismissal of what you've been hearing, reading and seeing on the news media is foolish. It wasn't just UN bureaucrats who ignored the signs from Rwanda-- it was also those who ignored the news reports.

Do many of us remember blaming the news media for the refusal of many Americans to travel in the 12 months after 9/11? I don't. What you saw on TV was horrific, but I have relatives living and working in the UK who went ahead with a holiday flight from London to Bahrein the day after. You must make your own judgments, based on your own research-- which includes media reports, your own government's warnings, and TA's advice-- but don't cry-baby about the media or any other single source of information.

John

A balanced perspective from Kenya:

Latest Kenya News from Campi Ya Kanzi

Dear friends, we normally send our newsletter just before Christmas. We were too busy to do it and we were keen to do it in these days, and we certainly will.

Meanwhile it is quite important for us to address what is really happening in Kenya.

Many of you have contacted us with concerns: you have no reasons to worry.

Here is our side of the story and how we perceive events.

As always the media need to portray events in an apocalyptic manner.
There is no civil war in Kenya and there is not a tribal confrontation.

How did it all start?

The two main candidates, Raila Odinga and Mwai Kibaki, in the polls were at 2% distance from each other.
We all knew it was going to be a very close election.
The Electoral Commission of Kenya was releasing the results very slowly, as they wanted to make sure there were no mistakes in the counting.
For the first 36 hours Raila Odinga, the challenger to the President Kibaki, was quite ahead.
His supporters were already in the streets celebrating.
When all results from Central Province, highly populated and massively supporting Kibaki, were accounted for, Kibaki went ahead and was declared the winner.
The losers felt victory was stolen from them.
Final counting and the declaration of the winner could have been handled much better by the Electoral Commission.
Were the elections rigged?
Yes, but not just from Kibaki side, also from Odinga side.
In certain constituencies votes counted were higher than voters, for both candidates.

What the media is not telling you is that Raila Odinga (a Jaluo by tribe) and Mwai Kibaki (a Kikuyu by tribe) five years ago were peacefully celebrating together their victory over Uhuru Kenyatta (a Kikuyu and the son of the first President of Kenya). Odinga and Kibaki were in the same Government for more than 2 years, only 2 years ago Odinga decided to create his own political alliance, with key members of the Government.
This is to explain you that there is no tribal issue in Kenya, but simply an issue about who wants to be power.

Safaricom is a very successful cell phone operator, about to be sold from the Government to the private sector. Value of the stocks is 1.5 billion $ (yes, you have read it properly). Just one of the reasons why being in power today is attractive.

Where we live votes split in half, for Kibaki and Odinga. The Maasai, as the rest of the Kenyans, were split 50/50, yet there is no confrontation among them and there is a total absence of animosity.

As in all electoral campaigns both candidates have been making huge promises.

Kibaki had on his side a 7% economic growth in 2007 and promised better growth, Odinga has been blinding jobless people with silly promises.

The ones who are reacting on the streets are precisely those desperate jobless people Odinga was appealing to.

They have nothing to loose and they are more interested in looting than in anything else.

They are looting small businesses, normally run by Kikuyu. Stating that this is a tribal confrontation is wrong.

Irresponsible journalists trying to sell their pieces by comparing the current Kenya situation to Rwanda are -in our minds - guilty of "journalistic terrorism". The consequences of their sensationalistic reporting can be devastating.

Yes, few jobless desperates are instigating violence, while 99% of the population is fed up with the clashes and this nonsense.

Kenyan TV stations are broadcasting interviews to hundreds of Kenyans, from different tribes, with different social status: all speak with one voice, this violence has nothing to do with us and it must be finished now.

CNN and Sky News are not interested in showing them to you. Much better showing the looting and the violence.

Kenya has a record of four decades peaceful independence that one tight election will not destroy. All Kenyans are very responsible and are all waiting for their leaders to show the necessary sense of responsibility.

14 millions Kenyans went to vote in an extremely peaceful and democratic way. 13 million 990 thousand of them are very concerns and are only interested in having their Country peacefully lead.

Odinga has lost the Presidency, but he has Parliament majority. We all expect him and Kibaki, the reconfirmed President, to find an agreement, as the Government will need a majority in the Parliament in order to govern.

We believe the agreement will be found and relatively soon.

This Country deserves better leaders, but so does many other Countries (including Italy and the USA, if you let me say so!).

Tourists are totally not effected by the confrontations which have happened in urban areas.
Our logistics have -so far - not been effected.

Of course the main concern is the impact on tourism, thanks to the bloody journalists exaggerating everything.

An example to let you understand better.

Naples is one of the most attractive Italian city, for its people, its art, its Mediterranean hospitality.
Yes there are people shooting each other on a daily base, the organized crime has a tight grip on all the city. Yet you are not told to not travel to Naples and you are not shown the violence that happens there.

Why? As it is not longer news worthy.

Much better to portray Kenya as a place where a Rwanda type genocide is about to take place.
This has nothing to do with the truth.

Are we worried for the current situation?

Of course we are, but not the for our own safety or the safety of travellers to Kenya, which are not at stake.

We are very concerned that the current unrest and the way it is portrayed will have terrible consequences for the people we employ, for the wildlife and wilderness we are commit to preserve.

At the moment there is, in our opinion, no reason to reconsider any travelling to Kenya in the months to come.

We feel that common sense will soon prevail and this nonsense will soon be forgotten in just few weeks.
We will keep you informed.

Kind regards to all,

Luca, on behalf of everybody at Campi ya Kanzi and at Maasai Wilderness Conservation Trust

www.maasaitrust.org

You can see Luca's Safaritalk interview here:

www.safaritalk.net/index.php?showtopic=257

Balanced perspective? Kambi is missing the point completely.

Is 300 dead (and counting) and in horrific ways a lie and merely the actions of "those desperate jobless people"?

Perhaps Kambi needs a lesson in recent history. In Rwanda were the Hutu and Tutsi ethnic groups, racial groups, or one people?

The point is: stop the killing, regardless of the reasons behind it! Protests cannot be avoided but the killings can.

No-one is saying stop tourism. In fact the world should engage in Kenya like never before to put an end to this before it escalates.

Until proven unwarranted, the media has a responsibility to report any senseless mass killings as the start of something very serious - we should learn from the past and prevent cleansing/elimination of any kind (tribal, ethnic, political, economical or otherwise).

My heart goes out to all the people of Kenya. They deserve better and they deserve the attention of the world who depend on the reports and the images from "those irresponsible journalists".

Daily report (Jan 4) from our safari operator in Nairobi. Only those who think Kenya is becoming Rwanda will be disappointed I guess:

Another reassuring message to say that Nairobi was absolutely
peaceful today, as was the rest of the country - quite amazing !

Yet again, all of our guests passed in and out without seeing or
being aware of any problems - so long may that last.

Yesterday, there was a call for a million people to demonstrate in
the centre of Nairobi, but it turned out that less than one thousand
even attempted it, and they were easily retained inside the slums by
the security forces - eventually it was called off late yesterday and
to be repeated today, Friday 4th.

And today Friday 4th nobody really bothered to turn out - many people
are hopefully that this is a sign that high level negotiations are
underway, and that Kenyans in very large numbers do not have the wish
to continue with this level of chaos and violence, and are very eager to resume normality.

Bill

What do you mean?

Why would anyone be disappointed with the good news?

Whoa, people! I think this thread is about whether or not the tourism industry is still OK, and if we should continue our trips.

The question is NOT whether we all fundamentally disagree with disenfranchisement of societal sectors and the catastrophic results. Of course we do.

Yes, people are committing horrible acts - in certain parts of the city.

Yes, it's shocking and mind-boggling.

No, none of us wants to be in the middle of it.

But will the killings in Eldoret and the slums of Nairobi affect Photogal's (or my) safari? Probably not.

That doesn't mean she or anyone else continuing with a trip has no care or concern with what's going on.

If the advice is to continue, to do our little bit by trying to bring money to the country, then it's the details of THAT which people need to hear.

And I'll defend my comment about the media: if your competition's headlines are screaming bloodshed and you're trying to peddle business as usual, you WILL be asked to explain why you "missed it".

I think the original question of this thread was more along the lines of: is all of Kenya on fire and should we all cancel our trips?

The question did NOT appear to me to be: should the international community heed the potential warning signs of this uprising?

They are, indeed, two very different questions.

And perspective? It can only be obtained by each person using their own judgement based on their personality, their experience, and the manner in which they process information.

Why would anyone be disappointed with the good news?

Doesn't sell newspapers? Doesn't attract viewers to the nightly news?

John is probably familiar with the newsroom adage "If it bleeds it leads".

Anyone who doesn't think the media sensationalizes the news should have been watching CNN last night, the night of the Iowa caucuses ... perhaps a historic moment as Barack Obama won and Hillary came in third. Earthshaking, right? But it shared the headlines with Brittney Spears, apparently intoxicated, being wheeled out of her home on a stretcher and giving up her kids to K-Fed. Such riveting drama! Such trivial nonsense!

Kenya is not Rwanda. And if it stays calm two more days the press vultures will circle elsewhere and do what they do.

Bill

No, Kenya is not burning and no we should not cancel our safaris.

Yes, the local Leaders must work harder to find resolutions, yes the media must continue to report and yes the world must continue to show interest.

We all want the same end-result. That much is clear.

Outta here...

The New York Times has some conflicting news reports from different areas.

"The trouble even spilled into the garden of the Serena Hotel, one of the fanciest in town. Guests in safari vests watched the turmoil from the balconies of their $400-a-night rooms. Police officers in padded suits charged a scrum of demonstrators and fired tear gas. As soon as the acrid smoke wafted up, the tourists ducked inside."

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/04/world/africa/04kenya.html?ref=world

On the other hand, outside of Nairobi, things seem calmer. Here's a report from Obama's ancestral village.

"The postelection mayhem consuming Nairobi and other parts of Kenya has not struck Nyangoma-Kogelo, the western village of tin shacks where some residents also kept an eye on the results of another vote, the Iowa caucuses."

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/04/us/politics/04nairobi.html?ref=world

I certainly hope there is a resolution soon. I think I would avoid Nairobi for now, but my trip isn't scheduled until August.

To answer photogal's question -
I'm still planning on going to Kenya November 4th. I will plan to spend NO time in Nairobi. And my original plan to go to west Kenya will change as my daughter's friends report that it remains tense there.

The media reports are consistent with each other, with reports I'm getting from westerners in Kenya so I believe them to be true. Thankfully things are calmer yesterday and today.

I understand your question completely about whether I could feel good about my trip with such upheaval. But the upheaval will be there regardless of my actions. I don't feel good about it from here either and since my daughter is living there, it's extra difficult.

This is probably the most important time for people to engage with Kenya. I'm guessing they need to know that the world is paying attention and their economy needs tourism.

I'm ordering Obama 08 stickers and t-shirts for gifts, filling a duffle bag with the many, many things DD has requested I bring, and looking forward to the trip. I just hope she's still in Kenya come February!

There's no one who doesn't want good news. However, if/when there is, we'll be lucky to find it in print on page 66, if at all. And the on-air media will simply go back to other "bad" news or Britney.

Thankfully, we've had some on-the-ground reports, from whom I feel are those not in it for anything, but to tell it as it is - the good (mostly), the bad, the ugly (so sad and unfortunate).

Thank you for your empathy and shared stories.

As many of you asked, the gate agent did nothing. As DH said, "she was oblivious."

DH is a gentleman, of course he did nothing. Our revenge was had at the gate. His status allowed us to board in the first group and we were comfortably asleep when Rude Man was not yet on the plane.

We will follow up with United, as suggested. It is a great comfort to me to read that we are not alone in this.

Also, when he did complete his transaction, the others in the line wished him Happy New Year - the closest thing to a sign of solidarity, I suppose.

Thank you all again for replying and sharing stories- I hope people continue to respond!

Sorry! Computer SNAFU- this was meant for the Fodor's lounge.

Sorry Africaphiles!

I've been trying to filter the reports from various points of view. I am wondering -- not saying -- just asking-- if the more optimistic ones are from those with some interest in tourism??????Any thoughts?

Today's Fantasy: Wouldn't it be interesting if Obama were to go to Nairobi now?
Jess

Jess - neat idea for Obama. How impressive would that be if he went and calmed things down!!! Do you think he and the Kenyian problem would get any US press coverage? Only large front page headlines!!!! But I still wouldn't vote for him.

regards - tom
ps - Oprah could go with him !!!!

Tom-I wouldn't mind if some of the others went too -- if only they would stay there!!!
Jess

Jess, Ive been wondering the same thing. However, with tourism being such an important industry for Kenya and other African countries, i find it hard to believe they would be wanting to put tourists in harms way. I mean, if the tourists start getting attacked and killed, that would be the end of it for them. It would take years for the industry to recover from something like that.

All i know is that im supposed to be there on feb 4th, so i hope my TA isnt givin me some fluff about how its not so bad! Ill be crossing my fingers.

I am still planning to go on January 14.
Jess

Bill,

Not in my newsroom.

The news media is much like any other part of a country's society. It has a cross-section. The viewer/listener/reader gets what he or she wants. I don't patronise any news organisation which would have Britney Spears sharing the limelight with Hillary and Obama. Spears wouldn't even make it into my bulletin.

So when deciding whether to go to Kenya or not, which is what this thread is about, I wouldn't class CNN as a worthwhile research tool.

John

Best wishes to MyDogSpud, Photogal, and all the others leaving soon for Kenya and the neighboring countries. If you can find an Internet connection, give us an "on the ground" update.

I, too, think that the Kenyans will find a way to work it out. I don't think that Obama would be of much use; when he was in Kenya, he accused the government of corruption (rightly so) and they almost kicked him out of the country. There's a time and place for everything and that was neither.

Thanks Bill for your most recent update from "your man on the ground". I have not heard from Kennedy in awhile and emailed him this morning.

I have spoken to Tauck several times about my concerns for this trip to Kenya & Tanzania. They give a standard reply each time saying, "we have not made any plans to change our itinerary". When I ask other questions they refer me to my travel agent. Their attitude is most unsympathetic and I am extremely disappointed. My travel agent had just spoken to Tauck and she experienced the same attitude.

After reading about some of the alternate routes people are taking for their trips to Africa, today I looked into flying to Dar Es Salaam and then into Arusha instead of going into Nairobi to get to Arusha. Plenty of seats are available, doing this is a real possiblity and I will keep this in mind. However, there are 2 different penalty fees I would incur- $100 to change the reservation and $75 because it was less than 6 days before departure. Here is what everyone should know----United was willing to waive the $75 fee and they would give me $100 in a credit towards a future trip. This was volunteered by the agent after speaking to her supervisor. She said it was not policy and it might not be offered next time I called in.

So, anyone who is changing their flights due to the problems in Nairobi, ask for your fees to be waived and see what they say.
Ilene

Micato has been updating daily me in lengthy e-mails, including Luca's report, verbatim. Last week, just as the news began to break, they telephoned me at home - I was out - but they left a message with phone numbers and cell phone numbers in case I had particular questions and concerns.
Jess

Hi y'all,

BBC radio [generally pretty reliable, IMO] were featuring problems caused by the fear of a breakdown in security - it appears that there's little violence but the main roads are closed - so there are fuel and food shortages, not just in Kenya, but neighbouring countries too.

this has a knock-on effect on producers and growers, who can't get there goods to market, farmers can't get to their fields, etc. even tea supplies are effected - the world's largest tea auction has been cancelled.

UK tour operators are flying guests home and cancelling trips. wholesale collapse of tourism would be very serious for the country.

BBC news just announced that 100,000 people have been displaced.

bad news for all, not just tourists.

regards, ann

Jess, although I can't say I know the truth here, I don't feel that any of the people involved in toruism would lead us astray, or sugar coat it, I think they would do quite the opposite, as if anything happened, there sure would be a lot of guilt ridden feelings on their end.

That is so good that Micato is keeping you posted of the situation, I am glad to hear that, please keep us informed.

Personally, as I stated before in another post, I would go in a heartbeat, and I still mean it, but yes, I DO worry about this situation.

As I have always been a believer of 'when
it's your time, God does not care where you are or what you are doing', it's
not really 'bodily harm' I worry about, it's the short and the long range
domino effect that I worry about. I worry about the effect of the
cancellations of the safaris over the next year - we Fodorites are a pretty
hearty bunch and we will return as soon as each one of feels we are within
our own personal 'safety zone', but I worry about the less-than-hearty
'casual' travellers that will cancel and go elsewhere 'just in case' over
the next year or so. It took Kenya and Tanzania SO LONG to get their tourist
industry back on their feet after the embassy bombings, and now, poof - it
will spiral downwards again. And with that, the dollars will not be as
available to people like Kennedy and Daniel, that I care so much about, nor
the many other guides or drivers that other Fodorites care so much about as
well. And this will hurt them so much. To us a loss of some of our income
may mean the flat screen TV has to wait a bit, but to people in Kenya, it
may mean eating well has to wait a bit.

As a postscript, can someone enlighten me on 'Obama' - is he originally from Kenya? Sorry, as a Canadian I probably skim over all of the political stories from the US; I do know who he is, but I wasn't getting the connection with the t-shirts & hats????

LyndaS, did you hear if the Canadian government issued a 'no go' today?

I've heard from 3 ppl today that they did, but it's not on the news or web yet.

Our guide here in Ontario is working on options, so I hope by the 18th I'll be going somewhere!

Just had a comment from a family friend who has been an international tour guide for 40 years.

She says "you're nuts to go anywhere near Kenya!".

Hmmmm, she's a tough, saavy traveller so this is an interesting comment.

A reminder to check your travel insurance policy -

Just talked to someone from US who got stuck at Gatwick after his flight to Mombassa was cancelled yesterday.

He called his insurance company and was told his coverage was voided because he is traveling to Kenya while under an official State Dept warning.

He is not getting any refund for his flight delays, lost baggage and rerouting costs.

I am wondering -- not saying -- just asking-- if the more optimistic ones are from those with some interest in tourism??????Any thoughts?

Jess, I'm sure people in the tourist business would put as positive spin on this as possible, but would also be very leery about deliberately sending people into harm's way. I take this into account when decoding what my safari operator is telling me.

Think about it this way ... all the news I've read thus far is pretty much in agreement that the 'troubles' are limited to Mombassa, the slums of Nairobi and two or three western towns. The media is focussing on this as it's much more dramatic. But none of the news thus far has reported any problems with tourists being attacked or stopped at roadblocks and threatened or whatever. The news media is focussing on the problem areas while the safari operators are focussing on the tourist areas, there is no real conflict in what they are saying, just an emphasis on different things.

Lynda ... As a postscript, can someone enlighten me on 'Obama' - is he originally from Kenya?

His father is from Kenya and while a student in the US met and married Obama's mother. They subsequently divorced and she re-married to a man from Indonesia, where Barack lived for a time as a youth. His book "Dreams from My Father" discusses his reunion with his father and trips to Kenya where he met his extended African family. Very interesting background, I read the book earlier this year (I tried to read at least one book about or by each of the six major candidates) and I'm impressed with him.

Last January in Tanzania at a market in a small town a teenager came up to me and smiled and chanted repeatedly 'Obama ... Obama ... Obama' ... I'm sure the Kenyans are proud of him too.

Bill

If, on CNN, I see the same building burning as was 3/days ago, I'll scream! Get new footage guys, of the quiet, very normal areas around the country, including Nairobi!

I was sent the link to the warning for Canadians:

http://www.voyage.gc.ca/dest/report-en.asp?country=149000

Thanks, Star. I've been checking the Cdn gov't site about a hundred times a day, but no change.

Can't seem to find the "no go" warning folks are talking about.

I just wanted to provide another input regarding tour operators. Spoke to Africa Adventure Company about changing our Kenya/Tanzania itinerary to South Africa or Botswana for the Kenya portion. They said that according to their ground contacts, everything is fine regarding safaris. If I wanted to change, I'd be charged the 100% cancellation fee plus the new trip costs. They said that if they deem it's unsafe for their clients, they will call us and allow for changes.
Also, checked with KLM to see if they'd allow rerouting into another city without fees...they said they would up to January 15th, but since we're arriving Jan. 26th, I'd have to check back and see if they've extended this offer.
We're only scheduled to overnight in Nairobi one night at the Norfolk Hotel upon arrival...but wonder if it would be better to change the hotel to the Paneri (sp?) nearer the airport to avoid the city centre....any thoughts on this?

Here's the US State Dept link:

http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/tw/tw_923.html

Sorry, the link I just gave is for Jan 4 2008 but apparently last updated Oct 2007 and doesn't have any new info about the post-election problems.

Here's the updated one from the US guy at the Kenya Embassy in Nairobi as of Jan 4:

http://nairobi.usembassy.gov/warden_20080104.html

In light of all these warnings I'll bet 10-25% of the tourists cancel or postpone safaris ... we're still going but will be vigilant.

Bill

Thanks Bill_H

I have the luxury that I am not going for months yet.

Thanks again

Percy

My 2 cents:

I'll contrast Barefootbeach's comments by Africa Adventure on this situation with what they did in another situation in Uganda in 2001. They felt things were not good where I was going in 2001 and immediately worked to change the itinerary for me and my 3 friends at the last minute. They did not charge us for a total of 12 gorilla permits or any other fees, including booking new international flights. So if the situation on the ground looked bad now, I think they would make changes for you as they did for me. That's one little piece of evidence that tells me the Kenya situation at this time is not a danger to tourists.

Hey Everyone!

I just arrived in Rwanda a few hours ago and spent the night in the Serena Kigali instead of Kenya's House of Waine. I read this thread and noticed that some people are discouraged by their travel agent's unwillingness to change their itineraries. I just want to reiterate that while CCAfrica and my own travel agent gently tried to persuade me that everything was safe it Kenya, I calmly replied that under no circumstances would I travel to Kenya and I am not willing to lose any money. After that statement, everyone accommodated me. House of Waine and Kenya Air refunded my money, Delta changed my tickets to Uganda for $24pp, and CCAfrica put me in different lodges in Tanzania. Now the situation might be different for me for two reasons:

1. I left this week when the situation is still up in the air. I also started the process of changing the itinerary the day all of this broke out.

2. I work with a very "well known" travel agent who does an enormous about of business. Perhaps, she has more pull than others. Not sure. In the past, people have criticized me paying the $200 trip fee she charged. But I think that it was really well worth it given the amount of work she did. In fact, I am definitely going to send her something when I return as an extra thank you.

I was contacted by a big newspaper before i left who is doing a story on tourists traveling to Kenya. Keep an eye out for it in the travel section this Sunday or next. Can't say which one, but you will definitely see it.

While the change in pricing is still not 100% resolved, it seems that at most the change in itinerary cost me about 3,000 in total. So about 10% extra of the trip. Given that I could have lost it all or never even took the vacation, it all seems worth it. I wish everyone luck with whatever you decide. It is obviously a personal decision. However, I know I can't enjoy a vacation if I am scared or stressed. So it was a no brainer for us.

Dr. Andrea,

Glad to see you have arrived. Thanks for sharing your solution to the situation. Have a fantastic time.

I also heard from Kennedy--same sort of thing that ICASH has heard, although a bit better in terms of worries about violence; now some worries about fuel, food, etc. Again, this seems to pertain less to tourists than to people who have been displaced and just regular ol' Kenyans.

The email was somewhat personal (we go back to 2004), so please forgive the paraphrase. The Kenyans I know are wonderful, gracious people who put up with A LOT. I don't want to see them suffer, although I certainly can understand the bitterness regarding the election.

Good luck, those of you who are making choices about travel soon. I would go, but that's me.

If anyone has any more on-the-ground updates I would sure appreciate that. My daughter reports that where she is on the coast is safe, but food is very limited. It's hard to get information.

The Washington Post has a good description from Peace Corps volunteers who were able to leave west Kenya:
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/01/04/AR2008010403859.html

The Kenyan newspapers ran a front page editorial Thursday called Save our Beloved Country that I found to be very moving. http://www.nationmedia.com/dailynation/nmgcontententry.asp?category_id=1&newsid=113850
Perhaps it helped. Things do sound better with less rhetoric.

January 5 update from the company we are using in Nairobi (a mid-sized company with 20 or so jeeps):

Hi there - this will hopefully be my final update, as it's all getting a bit repetitive !

The bottom line is that all week, operationally we have managed fine,
and every day looks better than the last, and every guest who is
here, are having arrived or departed has wondered what all the fuss has been about !

The real problem area has been Kisumu in the far west that no
tourists go to anyway ! And in Nairobi the violence is mostly
restricted to the slums, and those areas are easy to avoid. Mombasa
had it's challenges - I flew down there for a New Years Eve party and
landed right in the middle of it ! But again it was not as bad as the
media was portraying. In fact the international media have alot to
answer for, they really have been irresponsible in their reporting.
Kenya is the only country in Africa with an absolutely free and
uncensored press and they really abused that privilege.

I am sure the political bickering will probably continue for a little
longer, maybe one or two minor demonstrations, but I think it is very obvious that the Kenyan on the streets know that compared to the rest of Africa they are very lucky, and so there is a real desire by the mass population themselves to stop the problems and get back to
normal. Believe it or not - Kenya is one of the few African countries
who feel they have too much to lose, which is why the population as a whole declined to participate in the called for "million man march" that did not even muster one thousand ! And they came from "Rent a Mob Inc."

It's exactly like the Rodney King / L.A. riots of 1992 - look at how
quickly that violence was forgotten - and they certainly did not stop people from visiting Yosemite or Yellowstone - so hopefully we are seeing the start of the healing process already and Kenya can recover quite quickly too.

Hmmm.

I can tell the author what the fuss was all about - 300+ dead and some in the most brutal ways and thousands of people displaced with dark days ahead for many.

What exactly did the media do wrong?

Many people I know in Kenya are greatful for the media who very quickly sent out images of horrible things to the world - and the international community reacted by putting huge pressure on the Kenya leadership. Without those images of people being hacked by machetes the situation could be worse today.

If the media did nothing and ignored Kenya the rhetoric would be exactly the opposite - the tour companies would've complained that nobody cares about Kenya!

The negative effect on tourism was very small IMO. Very few safaris were canceled so the tour companies have no reason to complain. It could've been a lot worse. A lot.

Instead they should be concerned about restoring supply routes and normalizing things. Forget about blaming the media.

If I'm looking at the current news in my country and then read some opinions at Fodors, it's like looking at two worlds. If sandi says that she saw the same footage again and again for days on a certain news network, then I guess this is exactly what Bill's Nairobi source is criticizing.

Because I have the capability to provide emergency 4WD vehicles and such to relief organizations, I get email updates about issues in Kenya. I can tell you there is a big need for support/donations.

Here is an excellent medical summary of the mounting problems facing the country. The figures are large, especially the number of children hurt. And who knows what will happen next.

This is real and not a media dramatization so you may want to forward the link to your Kenya tour companies who wonder what the fuss is about.

http://www.imcworldwide.org/content/article/detail/1568/?gclid=COyxybD_35ACFQUllgodIXM5WQ

Why do people continue to watch networks they are so critical of? They remind me of those who complain they cannot find a good TA or a good travel doctor.

John

To a hammer, everything looks like a nail.
The medical people see the disease and devastation; the media see the tribal clashes; the tour companies see the game-drive areas.

Each of us tends to believe our (valuable) insight is the whole truth.

Jess

Climbinghigh, I think you're missing the point.

No one thinks the media are making this stuff up.

I think what we're saying is that there's never going to be a news story in saying "...and in other parts of Kenya, life goes on as normal and thousands of tourists are enjoying their holidays, contributing to the country's massive tourism trade..."

As someone who donates heavily to various service organizations on a regular basis, I understand the need - especially now. But there's nothing more I can do.

There's probably (and I'm hoping) another 3/4 of the country that are trying to go to work, pay bills, get an education, and lead safaris. And no news outlet will tell you that because it's not "news".

I think this country needs its $880 million dollars in tourism and I'd like to help contribute to that, starting on the 18th.

I'm confident that I care enough about others and do enough to help within the parameters of my life. So I keep checking and re-checking in hopes that my travel plans will remain intact.

Please keep those "on the ground" tourism industry updates coming.

May I offer one suggestion/warning...

In looking at my trip cancellation/travel insurance for our visit to Africa in July 2008 (we are not going to Kenya, but I was curious!), there is a clause which states that if the Canadian government has issued a warning about travel to a particular area, and if we fail to heed that warning and choose to go to that destination anyway, then the insurance company will not cover us in the event of any emergency while we are there (even, I gather, if the emergency isn't related to whatever has led to the warning!).

Looking at the Government of Canada website (www.voyage.gc.ca), I found that "Foregin Affairs advises against non-essential travel to Kenya...." I suspect that statement might be enough to invalidate our insurance if we had booked a trip to Kenya and went ahead with the trip. Check your insurance, if you have purchased any for your trip. It might not be the best time to be uninsured!

I don't envy you your situation. If you do choose to go, go well! Robin

It is a heck of a way to go and worry about your holiday situation.

If the Government has an advisory out about travelling to Kenya...
then do not expect them to send a plane there to bail you out.

And Insurance companies just love to
have a reason to say your insurance is not vaild because of this or that.

Good Luck to all you brave souls that I still going soon, I wish you all the best.

Percy

Percy

http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/tw/tw_923.html

Current US advisory - not quite so dire.

http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/tw/tw_923.html

Current US advisory - not quite so dire.

Jess, this one was actually last updated October 18, 2007

This is the most up-to-date link:
http://nairobi.usembassy.gov/warden_20080104.html

if the Canadian government has issued a warning about travel to a particular area, and if we fail to heed that warning and choose to go to that destination anyway, then the insurance company will not cover us in the event of any emergency while we are there

Robin, I think the US Gov't issued such a warning for Kenya after the embassy bombings in 1998 and it is still in effect. So US citizens have not been covered for almost 10 years.

Anyone catch the CNN show on Kenya today (Saturday)? Starts off lumping Kenya with Somalia, Sudan, Ethiopia, Rwanda and the Congo as failed African nations and asks "Can Kenya be saved?", describes the current conflict as "ethnic cleansing" and says the border areas near Uganda and Tanzania where Kenyans are fleeing are "lawless" and thus "ripe for terrorism". Hmmm ... more balanced journalism I guess.

Bill

Bill H. Thanks for the other link. Actually, the texts are very similar, although the Warden's is more detailed; the earlier advisory seems to have been vetted by State as well as it claims to be current as of 5 January.
Jess

For what it's worth (and I do not know what it is worth), one might compare the following language:
"The Department of State continues to warn U.S. citizens against all travel to Somalia,"
with:
"The Department continues to recommend that private American citizens in Kenya evaluate their personal security situation in light of ...."
and

"This Warden Message is being issued to alert American citizens to the security situation following disputed elections in Kenya. U.S. citizens should strongly consider the risks of travel to Kenya at this time. continuing terrorist threats and increasing incidents of violent crime....."

Jess

Governments understandably tend to err on the side of caution when issuing travel advice. Here's the Australian DFAT's latest, urging people to reconsider their need to go to Kenya (note the references to some border areas, Uganda and Tanzania included):

http://www.smartraveller.gov.au/zw-cgi/view/Advice/Kenya

The Canadian gov't hasn't changed its warning - it remains at "No unnecessary travel", as it has for several months - and as it was when I booked, before the elections.

It, too, talks about vigilence, avoiding public gatherings, etc., but also says to keep personal documents handy in case you choose to leave early...

It's regional warning says "Avoid all travel" and says only to avoid "all travel to the border areas with Sudan, Somalia or Ethiopia or to the Tana River region due to armed banditry and cross-border violence. Kenya's border with Somalia is closed since January 3, 2007."

Soooo, I'm not sure how it affects my insurance, because the warnings haven't escalated since I booked.

Did I purchase insurance that wouldn't have been any good even if the elections hadn't gone badly? Makes you wonder, eh?

It's a bit of a trap: I may have to go because civil unrest isn't included in the insurance, yet if I need it, it could be void.

Tonight's news claims "tourists are fleeing", so I still feel like I'm on the see-saw.

A spot of good news:

British Airways has re-introduced 2-bag carry-on as of January 7th...

And BA is offering changes to, or refunds for, flights to Nairobi due to the current situation.

Makes you wonder why we buy insurance, doesn't it?

We buy insurance because it makes us feel good and gives a false sense of security. We do not buy it from a cost analysis of its purpose or worth. Hint - the purpose should be to cover a loss that we can not afford to have happen.

I don't insure my trips. If I lose the $5,000 trip cost, what have I lost? I lost the trip. The $5,000 was already gone/lost the day before I started the trip. If I have a major medical emergency and need to fly home and that costs me $100,000, what have I lost? I've lost my house. Ouch, I hate when that happens !!!!

regards - tom
ps - I do get medical insurance

If the media is saying the border area with Tanzania is "lawless", does this include the Masa Marai? Any reports from the camps there? We're still on for Jan 26th but concerned about our one overnight in Nairobi, after the flight from Amsterdam and before we can fly out of Wilson the next am. Am currently booked at the Norfolk but think I should change to the Paneri (10 min from Intl airport)...the House of Waine was mentioned as a safe haven in Karen...but wonder if the road to get there is at risk....it's a 30 min drive from Intl airport and 20 min drive to Wilson. Thanks for any advice.

Barefoot, I think we're all in the same boat re: hotels and Nairobi, and that we're all waiting for some "tourism fairy" to tell us what to do.

I think BillH is the next to leave (13th?). Perhaps he's our best bet for an 'on the ground' report when he arrives ...

If the media is saying the border area with Tanzania is "lawless", does this include the Masa Marai?

The report was referring to areas where the Kikuyu are fleeing into neighboring countries (Uganda, Tanzania) and not specifically to the Mara. The only report I've seen mentioning that area was of a 'demonstration' at Narok early on, with nothing since. The safari company we're using had three parties going thru Narok that day and they didn't see the demonstration, fwiw.

From the link 'afrigalah' provided to the Aussie gov't site: "We strongly advise you to reconsider your need to travel to Kenya at this time due to the dangerous and unpredictable security situation, the high risk of terrorist attack and high crime levels."

Two of these ("high risk of terrorist attack and high crime levels") have been in place for years according to most western governments, so this is not new, just carry-over. Only the demonstrations and riots over the election are new news.

The report also says "Demonstrations are planned in Nairobi and possibly Mombasa, Nakuru, Kisumu and Kakamega on Tuesday 8 January 2008"

This is the first time I've seen a reference to planned demonstrations at or near a tourist area like Nakuru, where we will be soon, so this bears watching closely for those on Fodors planning on a safari. If they start planning demonstrations at the entrances to major safari destinations then it's a different ballgame.

Bill

After some good news on CNN about a peaceful solution, I'm not changing plans and will leave Thursday, 1/10, flying into Nairobi, 2 nights at the Hilton, touring with Kennedy 1/12, then flying out of Wilson to Arusha, 1/13. I'm thinking positive thoughts all week!!

If anyone has any messages for Kennedy, I'll be glad to deliver them next Saturday. Pls email me directly.
Thanks,
Ilene
ICASH@aol.com

ICASH, will you be able to get to a computer and tell us what it's like there when you arrive?

If I can get to a computer, I will.
Ilene

We will be in Nairobi on the 17th, and are not worried. Maybe we should be, but we are too excited about our first trip to Africa.

We are monitoring what is going on, and really appreciate all the information Kennedy, Luca and others are providing from Kenya, as well as all the updates on this thread. Thank you to those providing new information.

Bill,
Nakuru is a sizeable town and the area's provincial capital, so it would make sense that there might be demonstrations there. It just so happens that there's a small national park in Nakuru, but I don't believe this has anything to do with targeting the park itself or tourism in any way. That doesn't mean that tourists can't get caught up in it. There has already been post-election protests and violence in Nakuru.

http://www.eastandard.net/news/?id=1143979936

Patty, thanks for the link ... I culled this from it: At least eight people were killed overnight in Nakuru town following the outbreak of violence between police, looters and political leaders.

Big difference between the violence being limited to the Nairobi slums and distant towns like Mombassa compared to violence directly on our route like here at Nakuru. Will keep an eye on this, we may end up just going to the Mara for the entire trip.

Our driver is a Kikuyu who owns a farm near Naivasha, I imagine at a minimum he'll be distracted and worried about his family while with us.

Bill

I just returned on Jan 4th from Tanzania. Our flights left through Arusha (JRO airport) and one person in our group had to make a connection through Nairobi on KLM.

After boarding a Precision Air plane at JRO and flying and landing in Nairobi, word came from KLM that they were no longer flying into or out of Nairobi (same for British Air). They were then sent on another Precision Air flight to Dar, where KLM picked them up and flew them to Amsterdam where everything was back on track.

We have nothing to report about the conditions outside of the airport in Nairobi, but thought that the info about commercial flights may be of help to others.

Best wishes for safe travels for those of you headed for Kenya.

Thanks for all the replies to my original post.

I agree with the comments about insurance and especially with being on the "see-saw".

I just don't know what to do. I'm not sure if the risk of any sort of social collapse is worth it.

Re: the last post, the British Airways site offers options but nowhere does it say they're not flying into NBO. Do they just call it as they see it from day to day?

cat lover,
Which day are you referring to that the KLM flight did not operate out of NBO? According to reports on Flyertalk, Nairobi flights have been operating but with a diversion in DAR for fuel and crew change on the return flight since Jan 2. It sounds like the flights are currently routing AMS-NBO-DAR-AMS due to fuel shortage and KLM basing their crew temporarily in DAR. Flights returning from Entebbe have also had to divert to either Khartoum or Kilimanjaro for fuel. This is causing approx 3 hour delays on both flights, but I haven't seen any reports of outright cancellations.

I have tickets from Boston to Nairobi on NW/KLM January 14, and as yet they haven't said anything, so I guess they figure to get us there one way or another.....
Jess

Tuesday's rallies canceled http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/africa/7174670.stm

Looks like tonight's KLM NBO-AMS flight is still scheduled to make the stop in DAR.

For Bill,
Guests staying at Baringo Island Camp report they had a good stay, were content with all services and reports indicate that the road from Nakuru to Baringo is open and can be traversed without any problem.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g294210-i9512-k1641226-BBC_update_Kenya_Opposition_Cancels_Protests-Mombasa.html

I read all of the posts and thanks to those that provided relevant info on current travel to Kenya. It has been difficult to find current and valid tourist info to figure out if I should go or not. My flight leaves Canada for Kenya on Jan 10. (Arrival in Nairobi on Jan 11)
As is stands now I am still going. I am not a nervous traveller, I have travelled to Egypt right after the tourist attacks in the Valley of the Kings (when I went to the Valley there was only a handful of people at a typically packed tourist hotspot, one advantage) and to other countries after some sort of upheaval. I am also wary during my travels and do my best to travel smart and stay safe. I agree with previous posts, if you are scared about your travel plans then your trip will not be enjoyable.
This is the most aware I have been about my safety, one of my concerns is being trapped in Kenya if there is increased unrest. After all, it is my choice to go - I don't want to be foolhardy and need to be "rescued", costing myself or my government large sums of money to get me home.
Of course I also find it challenging to be going on vacation while the Kenyan people suffering. I don't see how cancelling the trip will help anyone, I hope my tourist dollars will be welcome.

Thanks Patty, that's *exactly* the route we're driving, from Baringo Island Camp to Nakuru so this is music to our ears

Bill

Patty, in the same link you posted there was this remark about cancellations:

Owing to the Travel Warnings, large numbers of cancellations have been received across the whole tourism sector by hotels and safari operators but at this stage they are mainly concentrating on the next three weeks to the end of January. Bookings for February/March and onwards have not yet been cancelled to the same extent

So those of us who go will likely see smaller crowds in the parks, our 'reward' for taking the risk of going I suppose.

Bill

I'm not a nervous traveler, either, but my thoughts on Kenya are: today it may be fine where you're going, but who knows about tomorrow?

I' haven't paid attention to the current status of the problems there, (well, I did see a headline in the NYT.com that the two candidates were going to meet) but I'd look at:

the status of the roads you'll be traveling on,

the status of the Nairobi airport,

the status of the areas to which you are going,

whether the problems are getting worse in the areas that have been experiencing them (maybe even whether they're not improving,)

and whether there are new areas that are developing problems.

If the answer to any of these questions is yes, I'd have to give a lot of thought to postponing the trip.

Hopefully the place will calm down & you will be able to answer "No" to all of the problems.

Ilene, SAR and Bill,
Any news you can send back here from Kenya will be MUCH appreciated. I leave Feb 3rd from Paris (1 week there on the way) and I'm going to Kenya regardless. My daughter's there, nothing would stop me from going. But I would like to know what to expect. I'm packing light and I plan to remain very flexible.

All I have is a plane ticket! I didn't start to make plans until mid-December and so haven't heard back from anybody.

However, things do seem to be settling down. The Peace Corps just moved my daughter from the coast to Mombasa and then they'll move to Nairobi. She reports that Mombasa is terrific and that I'd love it. But then she's been stuck in a small house with 4 other women for 2 weeks.

When I arrive I will do my best to post my experiences and impressions here. I am getting excited. Getting things together for the trip today. Packing is not fun so I keep putting it off, my camera is going to be taking up the most space! Guess I will be doing laundry in the sink again haha.
Just checked with my airline to make sure they are still taking passengers to Kenya, so far it is a go.
I am heading north to Aberdare National Park first, I will see if I can get online before leaving Nairobi.

SAR,
I will try to post when I am away. If you send me your email I can email you directly when I return 1/27 or even better you can email me.
Ilene
ICASH@aol.com

Safe travels Ilene and SAR - things do sound better. From all that I read I'm increasingly impressed with the Kenyan people and reading all (well not all) of the news stories and eyewitness accounts makes me more resolved to continue with my trip.

Of course, I still only have a plane ticket...I think it's time to get back to my planning.

I rec'd today a forwarded email from a young Kenyan man from the Rift Valley who is at university in Nariobi.

While it didn't sound all that great there, I obtained his email address in order to contact him directly.

Inlcuded in his report to his Canadian friends, he said that he was nervous, that food and fuel were quite short, and that small groups of young men were wandering around the city - looking for food.

He said several shops had been broken into, and only food was stolen.

He also said that when he went to the store, he met up with a group of young men with whom he spoke. They were oppostion protesters who were very tired and very hungry, who were angry that the politicans were holed up in swanky digs with lots of food and comfort while the people who support them are fighting like dogs for food. The interesting part of the story is that when the group reached the gate of this young man's apartment, he didn't stop, and kept walking with them until they went a different way. Then he cirlced the block, so to speak, and went home. He wouldn't let them know where he lived for fear of reprisals.

Anyway, when my friend emailed this young man that I was scheduled to arrive on the 18th, he didn't reply with, "Tell her not to come...", he replied with, "Please give her my cell number and if they need picking up at the airport, I will meet them."

I will happily post his reply to my questions when I receive them.

FYI, The British Tour Operators extended their Kenya travel cancellatons through Friday, Jan. 11th.
Anyone hear whether flying safaris are being grounded due to the fuel shortages?

FYI, on CNN reporter Zain Vergee (a Kenya native) mentioned that Barack Obama had called the losing candidate in the election and while chatting with him discovered that they are distant cousins.

So I think I'll scrap my idea of wearing an "OBAMA" T-shirt as a sign I come in peace, especially since my driver is a Kikuyu (member of the winning tribe).

Bill

I laughed out loud when I read you last post, Bill!

I laughed out loud when I read you last post, Bill!

Spud, sometimes those of us with a dry sense of humor get taken wrong so glad you got it

BTW I was kidding about the T-shirt but serious about the cousins ... http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7176683.stm ... and in googling 'obama cousins' to find a link I was reminded that Barack is also a distant cousin of V.P. Dick Cheney. For those not in the know on US politics, trust me, Cheney and Obama being related is FUNNY!

The joke in Kenya now is that a Luo tribe member has a better chance of becoming president of the USA than becoming president of Kenya

Bill

That there are political jokes being told in Kenya is good news in itself for everyone.

Thanks for the info, Bill. I was wondering what tribe his relatives were in....so it's the Luo one? Guess we'll have to say we're voting for someone else if asked by a Kikuyu too...John Edwards is probably a safe answer, in case they're Muslim and have a problem with women.

I want to assure the would travel to Kenya that the situation is calm now.Bill-Wearing an Obama t-shirt might not help you have to know these<ODM label is a ripe Orange while PNU label is Banana>Avoid eating bananas when in odm zone and oranges while in Pnu zone.See Kenya politics is simple its either the banana or Orange!Am doing these in KENYA and its cool now-we have to blame media for tring to show that Kenya is a battle field but its not worth when you understand that contraversy sells.

mwangi
www.birdingsykeholidays.com

Jokes and being able to laugh are good! Kenya will heal, slow in some place, but heal they will!

Is it now the case that the two principals will NOT be meeting Friday? That seems to have been an on again-off again thing. I also heard one of them say they will not accept mediation. As a professional mediator, that saddens me (-one more thing to be sad about). I was so psyched for my trip next Monday, but it seems like a long time since I've been able to focus on the animals. I think my "tonic" will be to go back and re-read some of your trip reports.
Jess

The news from Kenya is not good. Tauck cancelled my tour and I am now in the process of cancelling all my arrangements. They said their Kenya/Tanzania tour group is in Nairobi and confined to their hotel.

I was supposed to leave tomorrow and am staring at my luggage but was glad to receive the call today.
Heard from Kennedy and he is very upset that the cabinet was announced. Read in the Sydney Times that there was some violence after this announcement.

I'm going to wait and see what happens and try to enjoy my next few days home from work.
Ilene

Ilene, I'm so sorry your trip is cancelled. How disappointing for you.

Here’s a website that’s been set up to document what’s going on. I think it would be a good idea to email the link to your Kenyan contacts.
http://www.ushahidi.com/index.asp

Here’s a blogger who explains why the website has been set up.
http://www.kenyanpundit.com/?p=423

The news from Kenya is not good. Tauck cancelled my tour

Ilene, I'm really sorry to hear they are cancelling at the last minute. From your posts it's clear you were really excited about going.

Good luck on the re-scheduled trip!

Bill

Ilene,

I hope you reschedule and have a fabulous time.

Nyamera

Thanks for the website.

So the violence and trouble is not isolated to just Nairobi and area...hmmm.

Travel Agents in my city are not making any bookings as of right now.

They are telling their customers to call back in 2 weeks as they are getting information from Kenya on a daily basis.

Percy,
The website I linked to has just started and is very incomplete. It’s known from news reports everywhere that the violence isn’t isolated to some areas of Nairobi. That said, the risk to tourists is very low and I’d go to Kenya right now, in a heartbeat. The things I read about TAs like Ilene’s and the ones in your city convince me that I’m doing the right thing avoiding them.

Ilene- I know how you feel - I am still in limbo as I do not know what Micato is going to do. Is Tauck going to reschedule you or are you out of luck unless your insurance pays?
Jess

Ilene - I'm so sorry.

Just this morning I heard from the 2 safari operators and guides I'd contacted and they sounded optimistic. The information changes so often.

This was in the Seattle Times, a Q&A from a UW professor to travelers about whether or not to go to Kenya:
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/travel/2004115877_webkenya09.html

It's not all that helpful, but it's something. She seems to say that it depends on your risk tolerance.

Jess, did you see the reference to what Micato is doing in the article that someone posted from the New York Times (it was in a separate thread, I think). It said Micato was chartering planes to get their groups directly to the parks upon arrival in Nairobi.

Do you have any indication of what they may do for your trip, or is it a wait & see?

I guess if there is a silver lining for this whole unfortunate situation, it must be the fact that airlines will now be offering GREAT deals into NBO..anybody seen any good fares that those of us in the market for a safari deal can take advantage of?

I hope everything works out those in "safari limbo".

Kevin

Hi Nyamera:

I should clarify about the Travel Agent in my City.

Her boss owns the company and they do only Africa tours...anywhere on the Africa continent.

He owns a home in Kenya and one on London.

He is in Kenya now and sending reports back to his office here ( one of several offices he has in the world), advising his office not to send anyone there right now!

I do not know about other Travel Agent ,and where they are getting their information from.

Happy travelling and I sincerely hope that anyone who was booked for this time and is going ,will be safe, once they start the safari.
Percy

The latest news is that both sides have agreed to have Kofi Annan mediate their differences.
As a mediator myself, I think if would be great if mediation (or the prospect of it) saves my trip (- not to mention the country)!
Lynda, as far as I know Micato is still on - they do seem to make adjustments almost on a day-to-day basis.
Jess

Tauck called off my trip for 1/13 and I was extremely surprised they didn't offer to re-route us in any way.

They are being very generous in reimbursing us for everything including the travel insurance, is this standard procedure? I would like to re-book sometime and just go to Tanzania but my Visa expires. Tauck said they would pay for the $100pp new Visa also. They have been a pleasure to deal with.

I did stop in a travel agent's office today and to see if A&K has cancelled their Kenya tours. The agent called and they have not changed anything since their tour just flies into Nairobi, overnights and goes out to the camps. Thought they might have cancelled since Tauck did.

Jess, has Micato cancelled their current trip to Kenya?
Ilene

Ilene

Ilene
I appreciate your asking. As of this moment, Micato has not said anything to me about cancelling, and if they go I go! I don't know what their plans might be for re-routing as I expect it might be a day-to-day decision. If we do not go, I am in the same boat as you -- not sure when I can go again. I am to be in France in March and in September for a couple of weeks and in between that must get my passport renewed. Not to mention work, family, life, and all that.....
Jess

ICASH - Again, sorry about Tauck's cancellation. With the exception of quite a number of charter companies out of the UK, and maybe a few independent operators there, doesn't seem others out of the US are cancelling. Tauck, however, has been generous in reimbursing your trip insurance and visa fee.

... another reason to not purchase visas until at your destination (unless required to board a flight to a particular country).

Am I correct in that you were doing the combined Tanzania/Kenya? If so, except for what appears to be the drive from Samburu to Mt. Kenya Country Club, transport to other destinations is by air. And, air seems to be the way some of the operators are getting their client's from place to place, whether preplanned or under the current circumstances.

Oh well, Tauck's decision. Hope you can rescheduled your visit whether with Tauck, other tour operator or doing a private tour. Both countries will welcome you gladly.

Actually when the troubles began, I was kinda glad to have my visas --was just a bit concerned about whether the personnel in charge of such matters at the airport could get to work, etc.
Jess

Hi,

this may throw some light upon why teh locals are so mad about what happened, taken from my local Cornish weekly newspaper "The West Briton".

a local preacher, who had hosted a Kenyan preacher here whilst he studied, was out in Kenya during the elections to support his friend, who was standing for the opposition.

when the votes in this constituenucy of just 316 people were counted, the oppostion canditate had 219 votes and the government one 79. he was made to win by the simple expedient of adding a nought to his total, giving him 790 votes.

this appears to have gone on all over the country where the oppostion were in the lead.

they feel that the election was stolen from them.

sounds familiar?

faced with this and the ensuing mayhem, our concerns about our holidays seem a little less important, somehow.

regards, ann

Ilene,

Tauck has been fair, despite the unfortunate cancelling. The extras they are throwing in for your inconvenience and disappointment and show their good faith. Thanks for the details.

I also posted this on the "turmoil in Kenya" thread.

Latest email (this morning) from my contact at the Governor's Camps.

"...All seems to be calming down in Kenya now - and despite many cancellations, the bookings are still coming in, which is great. Majority of the Kenyans deplore the violence that has taken place. And whilst the incidents were localized, were contained by the security forces, and are no-where near our areas of operation the whole situation has been totally distressing. Like you I hate conflict - and it's all the more horrid when it happens in your home country! We are all hoping for a swift and peaceful resolution so that Kenya can recover well from all of these disturbances......"

eTN's East Africa correspondent has a good summary and update of the current situation in today's edition titled:

Weeklong political stalemate ends in Kenya with East African tourism getting normal
By Apolinari Tairo

http://www.eturbonews.com/782/weeklong-political-stalemate-ends-kenya-east-african-tourism-getting-normal

Seems my previous post is about the calm before the next storm.
Kenya: ODM Calls Three Days of Mass Action

http://allafrica.com/stories/200801110558.html

More Info from the Kenya Tourist Board:

"The effects of a downturn in tourism could be devastating.

With tourism directly employing over 250,000 Kenyans in 2006, about 4.2% of the workforce and the tourism economy employing over 550,000 Kenyans indirectly (9.2% of the workforce)*, tourism is critical to providing a basic way of life and decent wages for thousands of Kenyans.

On average, ten family members depend economically upon each employed person in Kenya. Any downslide in tourism will affect the livelihood of a huge percentage of the local population. "


" Unfortunately, certain travel advisories issued out of Europe are making operators cancel charters to the country;

which is specifically hurting the coastal beach resorts to the north and south of Mombasa, where many Europeans plan their beach holidays.

Most coastal hotels are reporting cancellations of about 70-90% for the later weeks of January.

Whether the good booking figures for February and March will remain depends on the status of those European travel advisories.

Interestingly enough, some advisories, like Germany’s, still allow travel to Kenya. Guests who decided to carry on with their travel plans are in Kenya now, enjoying recreational activities, day trips to Mombasa and the coast and safaris to a variety of Kenya’s renowned game parks.

" This week U.S. operators have reported they continue to send their tourists to Kenya and have only seen about an average of 10-30% cancellations versus the drastic European cuts. "


“Obviously, in countries where non-essential travel advisories have been issued, like France and the United Kingdom,

we’ve seen a substantial and damaging drop in arrival numbers but we do expect that these travel advisories will be amended and we can start, with the help of our American and Canadian visitors,

to recover our position as a top destination."

e-mail I received from a fellow in Kenya , who sent me this from the Kenya Tourist Board.

Percy

This evening on my drive home from work, I heard a radio story on NPR (National Public Radio in the U.S.) from a correspondent on the ground in Nairobi. The transcript of the report is here: http://marketplace.publicradio.org/display/web/2008/01/14/kenya_nics/

The report also made reference to a blog by the correspondent, which can be found here: http://commonco.typepad.com/8months/

That blog is truly enlightening. These people are so needy and aid is so difficult to get to them. I feel so totally helpless.
Just hope all goes well with the inauguration and that the demonstrations and rallies are called off so the healing can begin and people can get fed.
Let's not abandon Kenya! They need us and our tourist dollars now more than ever.

For those who are sitting here wondering..."what can I do to help?" one really easy thing is to donate to World Vision, which is a humanitarian organization. Currently, they are helping almost 155,000 displaced people in Kenya. Their latest news is here:

http://www.worldvision.org/news.nsf/news/20071231_kenya_protests?Open&lid=589&lpos=day_txt_Kenya

I don't know if they have a specific donation ledger for Kenya -- if not, a donation to the disaster relief fund goes to wherever the current problem is, and right now they are definitely working in Kenya.

I have sponsored a Kenyan girl via World Vision in the past. Now, I do so through Special Ministries, who work exclusively in Kenya. www.kenyahope.org. They have "Hope Centers" throughout Kenya, but I've just checked their website on the "News" tab and am sorry to see that their feeding center in Kibera didn't survive. I visited their operation in Kibera last June and also sponsor kids there. It's distressing read that 2/3 of Kibera has been leveled by fire and that they are still trying to find out if their workers and children survived. They are supplying help to those who were burned out, but need funds.

Hi, just finished my trip in Kenya, sorry about the delay in getting an email out - just didn't have an opportunity. This has to be quick, I am at the Amsterdam airport. ALL I can say is GO to Kenya. There were only 2 tourists on my flight, so sad. I did not experience anything threatening and I was all of the place, I hired a driver and we traveled through Rift Valley, Nairobi, East, West and South (not to the coast however) Towns like Narok and others that you might have heard about negatively in the news and no problems!!It was sad, most of the time I was the only guest at the places I overnighted in and the parks were pretty much empty. People are losing their jobs, and families are suffering because there are not enough tourists.
I felt safe everywhere I went and I was there for 15 days. kenyans are very upset and pleading with me to tell everybody to please come, they would love to see you and will take care of you.
Any questions, please post and I will respond when I get back to Canada.

Thanks for your quick report, SAR. We've seen similar reports from the outfitters, which some discount due to their business interests, but your report is the same as other travelers who have recently returned to Kenya. I'm still planning to go in September.

I also want to thank you for your report. It is important that we get as much "real" info as possible. We are still planning to visit in July.

Kibaki and Odinga - pot-bellies and all - actually did shake hands together with Kofi Annan!

To Sar

Thanks for the recent update. We are still planning our three week trip to Tanzania and Kenya (leaving 2/06/08) and were relieved to hear your reports regarding safety. The major factors helping us determine to go were of course the safety issues but also the country's economics. Sadly it appears that the people who are suffering from this are the citizens who have no control over their destiny. We are hoping that our small trip is a vote of confidence on their behalf. Serah from Eastern & Southern Safaris has been most helpful and accomodating.

It seems that the situation gets worse today! Dose anyone read further news about the riot?

http://cnews.canoe.ca/CNEWS/World/2008/01/25/4793736-ap.html

Now its spreading to Nakuru & Naivasha

I really do not have a good answer for all this ,but I had lunch with a fellow who has a business in Kenya and who's parents live in Tanzania.

He said word from home is that the trouble has escalated and that any tourist just "has to be in the wrong place at the wrong time."

A week ago his parents told him the Nakuru area was safe...."not anymore " he said.

Report from Kenya:
January 28th 2008

"From Nakuru to the adjacent area surrounding Naivasha, with rival groups of youths fighting each other, blocking the roads in and out of Naivasha town and burning houses in the housing estates, resulting in reports that people had been killed and injured in the clashes. "

" Tourist vehicles which were due to drive from Lake Nakuru to hotels at Lake Naivasha were advised to stay at the safari lodges in Lake Nakuru National Park tonight.

And to avoid using the road to Naivasha until tomorrow to avoid any problems. "

Good Luck to all the tourist there now..you brave souls !!

Percy

Just watched a BBC clip ..... they say more riots at the moment?

Well, we're due to leave for Nairobi and our Kenya / Tanzania in safari in two days. What to do, what to do? Any insights / first hand experiences from the ground are GREATLY appreciated.

This site monitors what & where...

http://www.ushahidi.com/

As for me, I'm still going to Nairobi (Feb 20).

Commander, what a good site with the map and updates. This will be very helpful to many.

Just read on Yahoo of an opposition lawmaker being assasinated about one hour ago. Things just keep escalating instead of calming.

I was in Kenya January 19-23. Thought about canceling that portion and staying in Tanzania, but decided to go ahead with my plans. I didn't encounter any problems, but I was in Amboseli, Tsavo West and then had a day room at a hotel outside of Nairobi.

To be honest, don't know if I would go ahead if I were there now and going to parks west of Nairobi.

Just when i thought things were really calming down and I was actually getting excited about going, not scared. I know people say things can change in a second over there, and that is clearly true. This is stressing me out. We are supposed to fly out on Monday (2/4) but now I really wonder if our Kenya portion should be skipped.

Commander- thanks for that link. very helpful!

What is your itinerary in Kenya? Are you driving or flying? If you can fly to all the game parks or are driving to Amboseli or the Mara, you should be okay. Going north through Nakuru is a problem at the moment.

ShayTay,

I am supposed to be driving to my locations (i know long drives) which will be Amboseli, mt. kenya, samburu, nakuru, and the mara. I am quite certain we will avoid the nakuru area. My original reason for not flying is because I am so scared of flying regular planes, let alone those tiny ones. Now im wondering if i should change that? If I avoid Nakuru, should the rest of my drives be ok? I know i read about the town of narok on the way to the mara, but i havent heard much on that in the last few days and I dont know exactly what towns i pass through on my other drives.

Check out the KATO website for the latest news: www.katokenya.org. It says that they have special patrols on the road at Narok for tourists headed to the Mara. Around Nakuru and Naivasha, they are not recommending traveling in those areas by road for a few days until they can be certain the violence has subsided. Given that you're going to Amboseli first, it may be over by the time you get there, but you should contact your safari outfitter or planner to see if they have an alternative plan in place for you, such as flying you to the parks. You may not like small planes, but most of the ones I flew in Kenya weren't all that small, as they are in Botswana.

Our plans are to leave for Nairobi on 2/6. We spend the first eight days in Tanzania; then we are in Kenya for 11 days. Our tour operator has advised travel adjustments in Kenya to avoid Naivasha/Nakuru area. How is Tsavo this time of year? Any personal recommendations for East vs. West Tsavo? How are the beach areas east of Tsavo? Anyone with recent experience in those areas? Is Tanzania experiencing extreme crowds with overflow from Kenya?

I haven't asked my contact at Kibo how the Kenya situation is affecting their current business, but I'll do so in the next few days. I've heard that it's going both ways: some travelers are cancelling everything to East Africa, given that they have combined trips such as you do. Others are shifting trips from Kenya to Tanzania, as I'm about to do. "Mydogspud" had her Kenya trip rerouted to Tanzania. If I were traveling by myself, I'd hold on to my September Kenya trip, but my friends that were planning to go just can't deal with going to Kenya this year.

bf -

Patty is currently in Kenya, visiting mostly Tsavo E & W; Local is also in Kenya now, and her recent thread above says all is wonderful; she too is heading onto Tsavo for 5/days. Tsavo has experienced some rain, but this only brings more green to the dry/yellow and a bit cooler during these summer months.

Tanzania is also loosing business because of the situation in Kenya. Many cancellations seem mostly from Europeans, who do head south in their winter to warm East Africa.

FWIW, I thought perhaps now, February, might be a good time to safari in Kenya or Tanzania. Perhaps the "pretty much empty" camps would offer deals/discounts. Sooooo, I saw a local (office about 3 miles from me) TA who specializes in Kenya and TZ, Somak Safaris. They came back with no great deals, apparently rack rates and at camps I'm not familiar with. (Mara Safari Luxury Tented Camp, Samburu Intrepeids Tented Camp). I was willing to spend a few thou $$$ now to go at moments notice, if good bargain, good for me and good for the camps. But I guess not. And no, I don't expect the camps to give themselves away but if they are half empty, paying guests that allow them to meet expenses might be welcome. I don't know, just my 2 cents.

regards - tom

Here’s a new Kenyan film about ethnic and other conflicts and how they can be solved locking people up in the toilet.

http://www.malooned.com/

It can be bought at Nakumatt.

I’ve discovered that cssuen asked me questions on 3 January (my birthday).
SORRY!!!

I’ve never been to the Junction and don’t know that much about shopping. I wouldn’t waste my time there if on a short visit from JKIA. Shops usually open at 9AM.

Mama Mikes http://www.mamamikes.com/shop/Specials/index.cfm?CFID=43619147&CFTOKEN=92047512 is very useful, easy and reliable for those who would like to donate food to displaced Kenyans.

Hidden among the comments on this very grave and serious matter with ramifications for generations is a tidbit I'll note for future reference. Happy Belated Birthday Nyamera.

Yes, Happy Belated Birthday Nyamera! May your birthday wishes come true (I'm sure it's to get back to Kenya)!
Aloha

Thanks Lynn and Dennis! I just mentioned it to have an excuse for not noticing cssuen’s question. Or maybe I wanted some attention … Anyway, I’m too old and that’s something I could go on about if this wasn’t a serious thread. Even if I’ll just walk around in Nairobi for 3 weeks, I’m definitely going to Kenya this year. Next year I’ll be even older and there is a risk I’ll not be able to go to Kenya if I don’t find a way to stay there this year.

Nyamera
Thank you very much and happy belated birthday to you.

Nyamera, your birthday is just a few days after mine. So happy birthday, my fellow Capricornia!

I just realized it might be somewhat inappropriate and insensitive of me to post cheerful, self-involved salutations on this thread. Sorry guys; I lost my mind there for a moment.

Hoping for positive news from Kenya.

Well Leely, happy belated birthday to you too!

I've just read this thread and I must say it makes me sad.

Someone said earlier that Climbinghigh was missing the point. In my opinion he has got the point. The situation in Kenya has been serious all along. Are there still people out there who thinks the media has blown this out of proportion? We should be glad the media even bother to cover Kenya and the Kenyan people. How many African countries are left alone with their tragedies, stamped "not interesting" - noe media, no international focus.

What is status now? 1000+ killed - 250.000 people fleeing, 2 opposition politicians killed, shortage of food. I could go on. It's escalating, not calming down.

My heart is bleeding for the people in Kenya.

Leely, happy belated birthday to you too.

Is there any improvement after UN chief Ban Ki-moon called for calm? Hope can get more information about the Nairobi City. Thanks in advance!

The latest news is that both sides have signed an agreement that would end the violence. Whether the violence has moved too far beyond the politicians' control to be stopped remains to be seen.

Here is an article about the peace agreement. I hope it works out. http://www.guardian.co.uk/worldlatest/story/0,,-7275403,00.html

I was reading through the thread of e-mails and was wondering what people were realy questioning... is it safe to travel there? should i feel bad about travelling there when people are being killed, hurt and displaced... One e-mail mentioned that ther are armed patrols at certain places - so everything is under control...How ridiculous!!!! It's a third world country - there is risk!
I absolutely love Kenya!! I have read numerous books about it and just had to go. Two years ago My husband and I left our 18 month daughter in the care of her grandmother and flew to Nairobi. We went thru armed gates and Metal detectors to get into the Hilton Hotel/Nairobi. Since we had a few extra days before our safari. We hired a driver (very expensive) for an excursion to Lake Naivaisha. The driver kept urging us to leave before dark. We were late leaving. The driver sped as fast as he could - there were armed patrols at various places on the roads... at each of the "checkpoints" there are spikes in the roads forcing you to slow down...the patrols carry differnt makes of weapons (some russian, some american, etc...). Things were happening on the sides of the roads - people, cars, slums, it was scary. Many, Many people are walking the streets - nicely dressed business people BUT My husband and I were the ONLY WHITE people in pure daylight walking in the streets of Nairobi. We went to the museaum and the archives across from the hotel etc. It was the strangest feeling in the world. Were we crazy? - probably. I chose a special safari tour because I wanted to go North to Samburu. We went there, Mt Kenya, Nakuru, Maisa Mara... It was the most amazing time ever - all of it!! The bumpy roads, the scary drives, the patrols... You have to ask yourself WHY do you want to go to Kenya and then you will know your answer. Upon my return i was lookign up some information and found out that just 2 weeks after we returned - a tourist, mini van was taken over by rebels in the Maisa Mara - one of the tourists was badly injured. Could that have been us - most certainly. Could the embassy or anothe buidling be blown up again - of course. Kenya is not a safe place BUT the tour guides to take every precaution - I would look at the maps and ask why are we taking this round about way to get somewhere... why because many roads are so bad with rebels and such taht they cannot risk it. With everything that is going on there now - certainly not the best time to go BUT what is it that you want to experience and learn. Many external safaris dont even bring you into Nairobi any more because of the bombings... so think about it... My trip was 2 years ago.. I cant imagine what it is like now... I am sad. Kenya is SO beautiful and it's people so amazing, so diverse...

Moni, I’m very confused by your post. You went to Kenya 2 years ago, not this year, but you describe the country as if it were some kind of war zone – “roads bad with rebels”(???). I’ve been to Kenya 4 times and don’t recognise your description at all. Maybe it’s because I haven’t stayed in hotels with metal detectors and have sometimes moved around on public transport without expensive drivers who, for business reasons, don’t want you do anything without their babysitting. Of course you weren’t crazy for walking the streets in Nairobi city centre in pure daylight. I do it at night feeling very safe. The minivan in the Mara was robbed by criminals, not “taken over by rebels”. “Many external safaris don’t even bring you into Nairobi any more because of the bombings...” ¿Qué? If this kind of thoughts make you feel you’ve done something really wild and crazy by going on a tourist trip to Kenya, it might be good for you, but don’t scare away tourists with your fantasies! Before this “post-election violence” the problems Kenya had was a disgusting and enormous problem with unequal distribution of wealth, with the majority living in poverty that didn’t only imply stress and boredom, but many also had difficulty getting enough food and then there was a problem with some really nasty crime, but that is a problem in most rich countries as well. Tourists didn’t have any problems (apart from the cost of safaris) - and they still don’t.

BTW, I’ve not exactly understood if this thread is about Kenya or about tourists in Kenya.
The situation is serious and there’s lots of information everywhere for anyone that’s interested. There’s no need to read that a Fodorite happened to hear on the news that there is violence in a Kenyan town when you can easily read about it in newspapers and blogs. What you could get information about here is if there’s any danger to tourists – from people who have moved around the tourist itineraries - and from what I’ve understood there’s not. Nothing happens to a Fodorite staying at a hotel in Nairobi and going to different game parks by air or road. The worst thing would be being stopped at a roadblock made up by angry youths, but as the Fodorite wouldn’t be identified as Luo or Kalenjin, or as a Kikuyu further west, there’s not really any danger. I’ve posted a link to a website that’s been created to document what’s going on hoping Fodorites would give the link to their Kenyan contacts, but after seeing it used on other forums as a scary map with red flames that make people reconsider their travel plans – and thus causing people in the tourist industry with many dependants to lose their jobs - I almost regret it. I’m not that sure that information for people around the world is going to help Kenyans. The reactions from people in the “comments” functions of newspapers – confused words about “Africa” - tend to prove that information doesn’t lead to understanding or caring.

Most of the major hotels in Nairobi do have security and check beneath vehicles and inside trunks. Nothing new... it's been this way since the Embassy bombings in '98.

Yes, there are police roadblocks with spoke strips on the roads throughout Kenya. Nothing new, saw this back in '96.

Yes, about 2/yrs back there was one safari vehicle, stopped by bandits in/outskirts of the Mara; no one was hurt, though their items were stolen. Tourist police found the bandits by next day and items returned to tourists.

Yes, I've walked about the streets of Nairobi during the day and no one gave me any thought, nor I them. Just going about going about. Haven't had reason to be walking about at night, so don't; plenty of places at home I wouldn't walk at night.

Kenya is a Third-World country, but quite civilized and safe. Of course there is extreme poverty that many of us in the west don't see "in-your-face", but I'm sure one would find similar circumstances if they'd look closer in/around their own towns/communities. Consider how many areas in Mississippi that don't have running water.

Being in Kenya 2/years ago for me was no different then when I first visited in '96 and the years in-between. Over the years I've seen a growing middle-class, even wealthy-class, but also more poverty. Sounds like so many other places around the world.

There are some thoughts around that travellers should make their own decisions about cancelling trips to Kenya and do what feels best for them. I don’t agree. There are no real threats to tourists, but the cancellations are hurting people working in the tourist industry in a very real way. Just go to Kenya!

I repeat my fundamental question. By going/or not to Kenya what message am I sending to Kenyans?

By going am I saying - I support Kenya, all of the good hard working people.

Or, by NOT going am I saying - I do not support your senseless murdering of each other and I will return when it stops.

Which action, going or not going, will help stop the murdering?

regards - tom

There are some thoughts around that travellers should make their own decisions about cancelling trips to Kenya and do what feels best for them. I don’t agree.

I've always felt that if someone wants to pay for my trips then I'll give them a say in where I go. If they aren't paying the tab then it's absolutely none of their business.

Bill

Tom, the Kenyans who are murdering other Kenyans will not notice any “message” sent by you. I don’t know how to stop the murdering, but I have no doubt it’s easier to find a solution and a better way of doing this thing called Kenya with a working tourist industry than with a destroyed one.

Bill, I did notice you too had written something in the style – as have several others and I could have said something similar myself without thinking. You did go to Kenya and I didn’t want to “attack” you. It’s better to go to Kenya than not to go to Kenya and I will continue saying so even to people whose trips I’m not paying. I understand that you were offended. I would have been too.

A lot of emotion with a common theme in that everyone loves the country, is deeply upaset and has high emotions.

For what it's worth, I've decided to go ahead and am flying to Nairobi tomorrow for six nights in a deserted Mara - will report back !

Phil

Have a good trip, Philw!

I too am off to Kenya next week for two weeks.

Both phil and more, have a good trip and travel safe!

Have great trips, moremiles and phil!

Aha Nyamera, I know you are right about the murderers not caring one half cent about my "message". I was waiting for someone to make this/your point.

BUT the people who do care about my message are those that have the power (maybe?) to stop the murdering. That is, if the government (who/what ever that is) realizes that the loss of tourism $$$ may affect them, then maybe, perhaps, they will do something about the murdering. Until the officials have an incentive to stop it, it will continue. Obviously the murderers themselves have no incentive to stop. Somebody has to get the their "attention".

regards - tom

You too, Moremiles!

I'm glad to see you're headed to Kenya, Moremiles! I wish I could have joined you, but I couldn't get out of an audit I have to do. Relax, enjoy the Mara, and drop me a line when you get back.

I will and thanks for the good wishes! Am heading there alone and itinerary isn't even finalized yet.

Tom, do you think Kibaki and Raila would be more motivated to find an agreement and talk seriously to their supporters if you didn’t go to Kenya? As the tourist sector already is in a state of disaster and you’re going on a Mediterranean cruise, it doesn’t seem like that is the case. I’m not even that sure they would be able to stop the violence. To find out what you personally could do, you’d have to find out exactly what’s happening, what groups of people are involved, in what way and why, and what the historical roots to this problem are etc. I’m trying (a bit), but all I know is that I can donate some money for the displaced people and not cancel any trip plans so that I don’t participate in the destruction of the tourism industry.

Phil and Moremiles, safarini salama!

Nyamera - that's just it, I don't know what you/I/world can do to stop the murdering. Where's the UN? Where they always are I guess, New York City. But does that mean I should not do what I can? No matter how insignificant? For sure I will protect myself and family first and always.

What would motivate Kibaki and Raila to stop the killing? Probably by only putting a hanging rope around their personal necks and telling them they have one hour to solve the problem.

regards - tom

tom -

Hanging would be too quick for them.

Better, have them each go out to the fields to select their own thick switch, and be whipped by their constituents. Not machettes, but they'll definitely get drift of the sufferring of those who were hacked to death!

Where's the UN? Where they always are I guess, New York City.

I just finished Shake Hands With the Devil so I am not going to depend on the competency of the UN

Ban Ki-moon was in Nairobi a couple of days ago.

From yesterday's KTB Update:

Following Kofin Annan’s arrival in Kenya, he succeeded in quickly bringing the two opposing sides together in talks aimed at solving the current political crisis. The government and opposition sides have each chosen a 3-person team to negotiate a political settlement, with Mr Annan as mediator backed by a team of “Eminent Africans” including Graca Machel and the former President of Tanzania. After their first full morning meeting last week, both sides issued a joint statement which expressed optimism that a peaceful solution to the political crisis would be arrived at sooner rather than later. An agenda has been agreed upon with one of the first objectives being to take immediate steps to stop the violence and thereby resolve the immediate crisis within a 15 day time-scale.

Mr Annan’s team proposed Cyril Ramaphosa as mediator to lead talks in the longer term to address Kenya's ethnic and land issues. However the government side expressed reservations about Mr Ramaphosa, who it was suggested might have business links to ODM leader Raila Odinga, whereupon he withdrew and left the country yesterday. This means an alternative person will have to be appointed. In the short term the key priority is to achieve an immediate end to violence and the talks continue today with Mr Annan as mediator.

As part of the strategy to stop violence, MPs are returning to their constituencies to urge their supporters to shun violence and keep the peace. It seems that this approach is already having an effect as calm has returned to many of the areas previously experiencing unrest. The coast MPs announced in Mombasa that they intend that the coast region should set an example to the rest of the country as to how different ethnic groups can once again live together in harmony as Kenyans.

Kofi Annan Leaves Peace Talks in Limbo After His Hotel Room Is Bugged

http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,329071,00.html

Hi All-
I just got back today from Rwanda, Kenya and Tanzania and from my perspective, all is well. I had no worries in any of the countries. And spent 3 non-consecutive nights in Nairobi and all was fine.

If anyone has any plans to go, I would continue with those plans.

My 02. cents worth!

That's good to hear since I leave on Monday for Kenya-hope I'm not the only guest at all the camps.

Welcome back,Divewop! I heard Peter wasn't available as your guide in Tanzania due to the death of a family member. I'm glad to hear all else went well for you.

Thanks, ShayTay.
Yeah, Peter had a death in his family so he wasn't available. The Kibo camp and staff were wonderful though.

Long story but the guide who replaced Peter, I was not impressed with at all.
I'll send you an email on the details as soon as I get some much needed sleep.

Moremiles, many of the camps in Kenya are almost empty. The main Governor's camp in the Mara is closed and only Little and IL Moran are operating. Other camps in the Mara and other parks are closed as well or operating on a very small scale.

It is a shame because the country really needs the tourist dollars right now.

I didn't feel the least bit unsafe anywhere in the country or at anytime near or in Nairobi. I'd go back tomorrow given half a chance!

Karibu nyumbani, Divewop!

Thanks Divewop and welcome home!

Thanks for reporting in with your first-hand Kenya experiences and especially while in Nairobi.

After catching up with sleep, looking forward to hearing more.

Welcome home Divewop! Looking forward to all the details.

I'm sorry to hear that the replacement guide wasn't up to par. I know that Kibo is swamped right now, so they must have grabbed a last-minute replacement that wasn't the best.