Kenya July 2008 - Sightings and impressions
Aug 7th, 2008, 08:52 AM
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Kenya July 2008 - Sightings and impressions
As it is my first report on this forum and has somebody ask it, I will give you my background and priorities as a traveller.
Since more than 25 years, I devote all of my holidays and spare time to travels.
I began in the seventies by some trips in Europe.
In 1981, some circumstances led me to go to Hong Kong, India and Nepal, where I stayed for the first time in a national park, the Chitwan. It was the starting point of my travels and my first contact with wildlife. In the eighties, I mainly criss-cross Asia, besides the above mentioned countries, the Indonesian archipelago, Malaysia, Thailand and Sri Lanka. The first half of the nineties was principally devoted to North America.
In 1985, I set foot for the first time on the African continent during a professional trip to Niger and Burkina Faso.
However, what got me to become absolutely mad about the African bush and wildlife finds its origins outside Africa. In 1988, during a trip to Sri Lanka, I had the opportunity to visit the small reserve of Bundala. We lived, my wife and me, an intense moment when we encountered, on foot, an elephant. It was short, but so magical. In 1989, we spend 3 weeks in Kenya. It needed 5 more years to the bug to be back, I went to Kenya again. Since 1996, I made more than 25 trips to Africa, to Botswana especially, but also to Tanzania, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Mozambique and South Africa.
In 2006, I went for the first time to Brazil, particularly in the Pantanal.
My priorities are not going to board and lodging. As long as I have a bed, a shower and decent food, I am happy. I never travelled with a group, always as a F.I.T. Nevertheless in Africa, I experienced all kind of lodging going from luxury (Londolozi and Phinda) to camping, always mainly focused on wildlife and nature.
For those who fear health problems, I can tell you, I have never been seriously ill during all my travels and it will not happened to you if you just follow the elementary precautions.
Last month, I was back to Kenya after 14 years hoping for less traffic in the parks further to the events of the start of this year and so it was except for a few game drives in Samburu and in the east of the Mara. So it also was on the coast where the hotels were either closed of with a low occupancy rate.
The first 8 days could be called the “cheetah safari” while the following 8 days, the “lion safari”. I had a private vehicle 4x4 with driver guide.
First stop: Samburu/Buffalo Springs, Serena Samburu: 5 nights (10 to 15/07/08)
The road after Isiolo is still as bad as it was 14 years ago but this is part of the attraction of Samburu which is my favourite place in Kenya. But it is changing, a Chinese company is building a new road to the north.
I was surprised by the drought, obviously the rainy season was discrete.
Good sightings of all the endemic species: Grévy Zebra, Gerenuk, Vulturine Guinea Fowl, Reticulated Giraffe, Somali Ostrich and Oryx.
Other species: Dik Diks (a lot), Common Waterbucks, some Elephants and Buffaloes, Impalas, Grants’s Gazelles, some Greater Kudus, Rock Hyrax, Baboons (a lot).
Birds: Tawny Eagle, Secretary Bird, Long Crested Eagle, Martial Eagle, Pale and Dark Chanting Goshawks, Kori Bustard.
Exceptional Sightings:
- Cheetahs: 8 different cheetahs on 5 game drives
1 female + 3 subadults (seen twice, private sightings)
1 female + 2 subadults killing 2 impalas (unfortunately with too many cars around)
1 female + impala kill (seen twice, private sightings)
- Elephant charging 3 lionesses along the river (too many cars): 2 ran away, one stayed, the elephant did not have a look at the one staying, running after the 2 others.
It confirms that when you are charged by an elephant or most other animal, do not move and run away.
- Lioness + 3 young cubs (too many cars)
- A Gabar Goshawk getting weavers’ chicks out of their nest
- A porcupine + baby in daylight.
I did not see leopard, only 1 sighting was reported at the hotel while I was there. I spoke with 3 French guys who were camping and self-driving, they did not see leopard either during the 10 days they were there. I also did not see adult male lions. The 3 French guys also told me that they were several times dunned by the rangers who asked them to pay fees because they had professional photographic material, though they were not professional.
Second stop: Lewa Downs, Lewa Safari Camp: 3 nights (15 to 18/07/08)
Good sightings of all the endemic species: Grévy Zebra, Reticulated Giraffe, Somali Ostrich and Oryx.
Other species: Defassa Waterbucks, some Elephants and Buffaloes, Impalas, Grants’s Gazelles, Burchell’s Zebra, Elands, Hippos (only 2), 5 young male lions (21/2 years old).
Exceptional Sightings:
- Cheetahs: 4 different cheetahs on 3 game drives
3 brothers (seen 3 times, private sightings)
1 female far away in the grass (very shy)
- Black and white rhinos + young ones (a lot)
Still no leopard
For further information on Lewa: www.lewa.org
Third and fourth stop: Masaï Mara, Mara Sopa, 3 nights (18 to 21/07/08) and Karen Blixen Camp, 5 nights (21 to 26/07/08)
- Migration: already a lot of zebras between Oloolamutiek and Keekorok. A lot of gnus between the Tanzanian border and Keekorok.. I saw some gnus and zebras crossing the Mara at Serena. I even saw about 15 huge crocodiles feeding frenetically on a zebra, at the same place.
- Lions are everywhere: - about 25 (mainly male adults and subadults) between Oloolamutiek, Keekorok and Talek: 1 missed attempt by 2 lionesses to kill zebra or gnu, 1 baby
zebra killed by 2 other lionesses
- the March pride (at Musiara): 2 males, 5 females, 11 cubs (from a few days to a few months old)
- between Musiara and Aitong: 1 couple mating, 2 males, 2 females, 3 nomadic subadult males.
- A lot of hippos in the Mara
- Other species: Some elephants, buffaloes , elands, a lot of giraffes, topis, kongonis, Thompson and Grant’s gazelles, spotted hyenas, black backed jackals
- Birds : ground hornbills, different species of vultures, tawny eagle, secretary bird, martial eagle, pale and dark chanting goshawks, kori bustard, African fish eagle, augur buzzard, grey kestrel, black breasted snake eagle, purple roller,……
No leopard in 16 days safari and no cheetah in the Mara.
Leopard was reported to be seen twice by guests at KBC in Aitong as well as cheetahs not far from Musiara and between Musiara and Aitong.
KBC is an old fashion camp (22 tents). The tents are big (a bit les than 50 m2), on wooden floor, simply furnished but with taste, bathroom and toilet en suite, with the shower outside. The camp is along the river Mara where, at level of the camp, about 40 resident hippos are living. For further information: www.karenblixencamp.com
All things considered, though I did not see any leopard, and I was not expecting to see wild dogs, the safari was, with regard to wildlife, nature and sightings, great and interesting. With regard to other aspects, it was disappointing, but it was not really a surprise.
The behaviour of many drivers, mainly minivan, is dangerous, irresponsible and disrespectful to nature and wildlife, driving off road to get closer to animals, allowing teenagers to sit on the roof of the car, legs hanging down on the outside, close to lions and mating lions. There is no other country in Africa where I’ve been, except northern Tanzania, where this is carried out so intensely. I am afraid to imagine what it would be with fully booked hotels and camps. I was mainly confronted to these situations in Samburu, the eastern side of the Mara and on one occasion close to KBC. The area from Musiara to Serena was, considering this, quieter, the camps there being not very busy.
The driver guides are more drivers than guides, they know the essential concerning mammals and big birds, but when you come to smaller birds, they still have a lot to learn.
Compared with 14 years ago, I was surprised by the increase of human settlements around Talek, Sekenani and Oloolamutiek and by the amount and size of the cattle herds grazing in and around the Mara and also in Samburu. Is this demographic pressure the reason why there are less lions in Samburu? On the other hand, there are still a lot of lions in the Mara.
The weather was ok in Samburu, it only rained one evening, but the light was poor, except for a few short moments in the end of the afternoon.
In the Mara, it was worse, the sky was overcast in the morning and in the end of the afternoon. It rained in the evening during 6 following days, sometimes very heavily. One day, we came back to the camp under torrential rain and thunder storm.
Another thing, I was not aware of and was not mentioned to me by my agent, was where you sleep, you pay the entry fee for yourself, the car and the driver. So that I had to pay again the 80 USD for my wife and me and the 1800 KSH each time I went to another conservancy area, in the occurrence Musiara and beyond.
Concerning security and stability, Kenya is safe, perhaps more than some places in Europe and Northern America.
As a conclusion, for those who are looking for remote and pristine places and respect of nature and wildlife, Botswana is still the place to go but it is more expensive if you are reluctant to camping.
Fifth stop: Diani Beach, Asha Cottage: 5 nights (26 to 31/07/08)
Asha Cottage was the good surprise of the trip. I warmly recommend this place. It is a new built hotel. In fact, it is more a luxury bed and breakfast than a hotel, with only 5 beautifully furnished rooms. It is also possible to have lunch and dinner if you wish, the food is gorgeous. The owners are wonderful people. The snorkelling is possible at low tide between the beach and the reef. The submarine wildlife is fantastic, I saw a great variety of fishes: morays, snake eels, triggerfishes, butterflyfishes, wrasses, parrotfishes, pufffishes, clownfishes,……………
For further information: www.ashacottages.com
Mike
Since more than 25 years, I devote all of my holidays and spare time to travels.
I began in the seventies by some trips in Europe.
In 1981, some circumstances led me to go to Hong Kong, India and Nepal, where I stayed for the first time in a national park, the Chitwan. It was the starting point of my travels and my first contact with wildlife. In the eighties, I mainly criss-cross Asia, besides the above mentioned countries, the Indonesian archipelago, Malaysia, Thailand and Sri Lanka. The first half of the nineties was principally devoted to North America.
In 1985, I set foot for the first time on the African continent during a professional trip to Niger and Burkina Faso.
However, what got me to become absolutely mad about the African bush and wildlife finds its origins outside Africa. In 1988, during a trip to Sri Lanka, I had the opportunity to visit the small reserve of Bundala. We lived, my wife and me, an intense moment when we encountered, on foot, an elephant. It was short, but so magical. In 1989, we spend 3 weeks in Kenya. It needed 5 more years to the bug to be back, I went to Kenya again. Since 1996, I made more than 25 trips to Africa, to Botswana especially, but also to Tanzania, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Mozambique and South Africa.
In 2006, I went for the first time to Brazil, particularly in the Pantanal.
My priorities are not going to board and lodging. As long as I have a bed, a shower and decent food, I am happy. I never travelled with a group, always as a F.I.T. Nevertheless in Africa, I experienced all kind of lodging going from luxury (Londolozi and Phinda) to camping, always mainly focused on wildlife and nature.
For those who fear health problems, I can tell you, I have never been seriously ill during all my travels and it will not happened to you if you just follow the elementary precautions.
Last month, I was back to Kenya after 14 years hoping for less traffic in the parks further to the events of the start of this year and so it was except for a few game drives in Samburu and in the east of the Mara. So it also was on the coast where the hotels were either closed of with a low occupancy rate.
The first 8 days could be called the “cheetah safari” while the following 8 days, the “lion safari”. I had a private vehicle 4x4 with driver guide.
First stop: Samburu/Buffalo Springs, Serena Samburu: 5 nights (10 to 15/07/08)
The road after Isiolo is still as bad as it was 14 years ago but this is part of the attraction of Samburu which is my favourite place in Kenya. But it is changing, a Chinese company is building a new road to the north.
I was surprised by the drought, obviously the rainy season was discrete.
Good sightings of all the endemic species: Grévy Zebra, Gerenuk, Vulturine Guinea Fowl, Reticulated Giraffe, Somali Ostrich and Oryx.
Other species: Dik Diks (a lot), Common Waterbucks, some Elephants and Buffaloes, Impalas, Grants’s Gazelles, some Greater Kudus, Rock Hyrax, Baboons (a lot).
Birds: Tawny Eagle, Secretary Bird, Long Crested Eagle, Martial Eagle, Pale and Dark Chanting Goshawks, Kori Bustard.
Exceptional Sightings:
- Cheetahs: 8 different cheetahs on 5 game drives
1 female + 3 subadults (seen twice, private sightings)
1 female + 2 subadults killing 2 impalas (unfortunately with too many cars around)
1 female + impala kill (seen twice, private sightings)
- Elephant charging 3 lionesses along the river (too many cars): 2 ran away, one stayed, the elephant did not have a look at the one staying, running after the 2 others.
It confirms that when you are charged by an elephant or most other animal, do not move and run away.
- Lioness + 3 young cubs (too many cars)
- A Gabar Goshawk getting weavers’ chicks out of their nest
- A porcupine + baby in daylight.
I did not see leopard, only 1 sighting was reported at the hotel while I was there. I spoke with 3 French guys who were camping and self-driving, they did not see leopard either during the 10 days they were there. I also did not see adult male lions. The 3 French guys also told me that they were several times dunned by the rangers who asked them to pay fees because they had professional photographic material, though they were not professional.
Second stop: Lewa Downs, Lewa Safari Camp: 3 nights (15 to 18/07/08)
Good sightings of all the endemic species: Grévy Zebra, Reticulated Giraffe, Somali Ostrich and Oryx.
Other species: Defassa Waterbucks, some Elephants and Buffaloes, Impalas, Grants’s Gazelles, Burchell’s Zebra, Elands, Hippos (only 2), 5 young male lions (21/2 years old).
Exceptional Sightings:
- Cheetahs: 4 different cheetahs on 3 game drives
3 brothers (seen 3 times, private sightings)
1 female far away in the grass (very shy)
- Black and white rhinos + young ones (a lot)
Still no leopard
For further information on Lewa: www.lewa.org
Third and fourth stop: Masaï Mara, Mara Sopa, 3 nights (18 to 21/07/08) and Karen Blixen Camp, 5 nights (21 to 26/07/08)
- Migration: already a lot of zebras between Oloolamutiek and Keekorok. A lot of gnus between the Tanzanian border and Keekorok.. I saw some gnus and zebras crossing the Mara at Serena. I even saw about 15 huge crocodiles feeding frenetically on a zebra, at the same place.
- Lions are everywhere: - about 25 (mainly male adults and subadults) between Oloolamutiek, Keekorok and Talek: 1 missed attempt by 2 lionesses to kill zebra or gnu, 1 baby
zebra killed by 2 other lionesses
- the March pride (at Musiara): 2 males, 5 females, 11 cubs (from a few days to a few months old)
- between Musiara and Aitong: 1 couple mating, 2 males, 2 females, 3 nomadic subadult males.
- A lot of hippos in the Mara
- Other species: Some elephants, buffaloes , elands, a lot of giraffes, topis, kongonis, Thompson and Grant’s gazelles, spotted hyenas, black backed jackals
- Birds : ground hornbills, different species of vultures, tawny eagle, secretary bird, martial eagle, pale and dark chanting goshawks, kori bustard, African fish eagle, augur buzzard, grey kestrel, black breasted snake eagle, purple roller,……
No leopard in 16 days safari and no cheetah in the Mara.
Leopard was reported to be seen twice by guests at KBC in Aitong as well as cheetahs not far from Musiara and between Musiara and Aitong.
KBC is an old fashion camp (22 tents). The tents are big (a bit les than 50 m2), on wooden floor, simply furnished but with taste, bathroom and toilet en suite, with the shower outside. The camp is along the river Mara where, at level of the camp, about 40 resident hippos are living. For further information: www.karenblixencamp.com
All things considered, though I did not see any leopard, and I was not expecting to see wild dogs, the safari was, with regard to wildlife, nature and sightings, great and interesting. With regard to other aspects, it was disappointing, but it was not really a surprise.
The behaviour of many drivers, mainly minivan, is dangerous, irresponsible and disrespectful to nature and wildlife, driving off road to get closer to animals, allowing teenagers to sit on the roof of the car, legs hanging down on the outside, close to lions and mating lions. There is no other country in Africa where I’ve been, except northern Tanzania, where this is carried out so intensely. I am afraid to imagine what it would be with fully booked hotels and camps. I was mainly confronted to these situations in Samburu, the eastern side of the Mara and on one occasion close to KBC. The area from Musiara to Serena was, considering this, quieter, the camps there being not very busy.
The driver guides are more drivers than guides, they know the essential concerning mammals and big birds, but when you come to smaller birds, they still have a lot to learn.
Compared with 14 years ago, I was surprised by the increase of human settlements around Talek, Sekenani and Oloolamutiek and by the amount and size of the cattle herds grazing in and around the Mara and also in Samburu. Is this demographic pressure the reason why there are less lions in Samburu? On the other hand, there are still a lot of lions in the Mara.
The weather was ok in Samburu, it only rained one evening, but the light was poor, except for a few short moments in the end of the afternoon.
In the Mara, it was worse, the sky was overcast in the morning and in the end of the afternoon. It rained in the evening during 6 following days, sometimes very heavily. One day, we came back to the camp under torrential rain and thunder storm.
Another thing, I was not aware of and was not mentioned to me by my agent, was where you sleep, you pay the entry fee for yourself, the car and the driver. So that I had to pay again the 80 USD for my wife and me and the 1800 KSH each time I went to another conservancy area, in the occurrence Musiara and beyond.
Concerning security and stability, Kenya is safe, perhaps more than some places in Europe and Northern America.
As a conclusion, for those who are looking for remote and pristine places and respect of nature and wildlife, Botswana is still the place to go but it is more expensive if you are reluctant to camping.
Fifth stop: Diani Beach, Asha Cottage: 5 nights (26 to 31/07/08)
Asha Cottage was the good surprise of the trip. I warmly recommend this place. It is a new built hotel. In fact, it is more a luxury bed and breakfast than a hotel, with only 5 beautifully furnished rooms. It is also possible to have lunch and dinner if you wish, the food is gorgeous. The owners are wonderful people. The snorkelling is possible at low tide between the beach and the reef. The submarine wildlife is fantastic, I saw a great variety of fishes: morays, snake eels, triggerfishes, butterflyfishes, wrasses, parrotfishes, pufffishes, clownfishes,……………
For further information: www.ashacottages.com
Mike
Aug 7th, 2008, 09:34 AM
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Mike,
thanks a lot for the report, after reading it I dont knwo how to wait the last days... The only thing is that most liekly we will have even more traffic than you had
(
25 trips to Africa in only 12 year is a lot - I am impressed. Always trying to go each year, it will be fourth time in five years now. But we still have some time.
As we travelled in Botswana two years ago, I completely understand what you said about Kenya. But travelling in Botswana not as a group but only the two of us having the same "luxury" of an own vehicle just to be free to stay in the bush the whole day is much too expensive in Botswana (if at all possible, you will for sure know better). And what I absolutel dont want to have anymore is to be in a car together with other people who just come to take a pic and then leave for the next animal, staying ion the bush two hours in the morning and two in the evening...
Thanks you so much again, we will for sure report when back in Europe.
Regards
Steff
thanks a lot for the report, after reading it I dont knwo how to wait the last days... The only thing is that most liekly we will have even more traffic than you had
( 25 trips to Africa in only 12 year is a lot - I am impressed. Always trying to go each year, it will be fourth time in five years now. But we still have some time.
As we travelled in Botswana two years ago, I completely understand what you said about Kenya. But travelling in Botswana not as a group but only the two of us having the same "luxury" of an own vehicle just to be free to stay in the bush the whole day is much too expensive in Botswana (if at all possible, you will for sure know better). And what I absolutel dont want to have anymore is to be in a car together with other people who just come to take a pic and then leave for the next animal, staying ion the bush two hours in the morning and two in the evening...
Thanks you so much again, we will for sure report when back in Europe.
Regards
Steff
Aug 7th, 2008, 01:36 PM
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thank you for your report!
in view to the mara and the minivans - i completely agree!
and this year is very quiet in comparison to last year. last year it was madness!
especially at the crossing points privat cars and minibusses were interferring with crossings seperating mother wildebeests from their calves, fowls from their zebra mothers. it was hell!
and the rangers check tickets instead of monitoring the crossing points
"No leopard in 16 days safari and no cheetah in the Mara."
that is extremely strange!and sad.
there is a pretty domestic leopardess close to kicheche main camp and also bella close to talek gate. last aug. we saw both on several occasions incl. bella killing a wildebeest. supuu, the kicheche leopardess again is raising 2 cubs in close proximity to the camp. she has been living there in almost the same lugga for at least 2,5 years now!
maybe next time you go you can go to these spots and check them out ;-)
www.kicheche.com
div
in view to the mara and the minivans - i completely agree!
and this year is very quiet in comparison to last year. last year it was madness!
especially at the crossing points privat cars and minibusses were interferring with crossings seperating mother wildebeests from their calves, fowls from their zebra mothers. it was hell!
and the rangers check tickets instead of monitoring the crossing points
"No leopard in 16 days safari and no cheetah in the Mara."
that is extremely strange!and sad.
there is a pretty domestic leopardess close to kicheche main camp and also bella close to talek gate. last aug. we saw both on several occasions incl. bella killing a wildebeest. supuu, the kicheche leopardess again is raising 2 cubs in close proximity to the camp. she has been living there in almost the same lugga for at least 2,5 years now!
maybe next time you go you can go to these spots and check them out ;-)
www.kicheche.com
div
Aug 7th, 2008, 04:04 PM
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Hi walrus - A most impressive resume of travel in Africa and I'm sure also the rest of the world. Many thanks for your report. A lot of useful info and interesting to read.
What has been your experience with "mobile" tented safaris? My dear Carolyn would love to do tented, to be there in the midst of wildlife and away from the formal camp atmosphere. Like you said, shower, bed, decent food. It would also be nice if it were not as expensive as the camps (MalaMala, Londolozi, etc). But my limited looking has turned up only the expensive mobile safaris. Any suggestions appreciated, thanks. And thanks again for your report.
regards - tom
What has been your experience with "mobile" tented safaris? My dear Carolyn would love to do tented, to be there in the midst of wildlife and away from the formal camp atmosphere. Like you said, shower, bed, decent food. It would also be nice if it were not as expensive as the camps (MalaMala, Londolozi, etc). But my limited looking has turned up only the expensive mobile safaris. Any suggestions appreciated, thanks. And thanks again for your report.
regards - tom
Aug 7th, 2008, 04:09 PM
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Thank you so much, Walrus, for posting your very insightful report! I'm going to print it out to take with us on our safari - only 9 days to go...
We have a similar itinerary to you - Samburu/Lake Nakuru/Mara. Hoping it won't be too crazy with crowds (& clowns). In the Mara, we'll be staying at Nyumbu Camp in the Olare Orok Conservancy (3 days) and then Mara Serena in the Triangle (2 days). From what you've said, these areas may not be as busy?
Since this is our first time to Africa, we're just so excited to be going. And if we have similar wildlife sightings to yours, we'll truly be thrilled!!
Thanks again for your help! We'll definitely be bringing the rain coats!
We have a similar itinerary to you - Samburu/Lake Nakuru/Mara. Hoping it won't be too crazy with crowds (& clowns). In the Mara, we'll be staying at Nyumbu Camp in the Olare Orok Conservancy (3 days) and then Mara Serena in the Triangle (2 days). From what you've said, these areas may not be as busy?
Since this is our first time to Africa, we're just so excited to be going. And if we have similar wildlife sightings to yours, we'll truly be thrilled!!
Thanks again for your help! We'll definitely be bringing the rain coats!
Aug 8th, 2008, 12:43 AM
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Thank you all for your comments.
Div,
No I'm not in the travel business but I have a very good friend in it.
Thank you for the information on leopards, maybe on my next trip in October.
Tom,
Concerning mobile safaris, my experience is limited to 2 trips in Botswana.
The first in 2003, with friends and friends of friends (13 persons + a guide. We rented 4 4X4 vehicles in Joburg and up during 2 weeks to Central Kalahari, Nxaï Pan, Moremi and back to Joburg.
We love it, so we decided in 2004 to renew the experience, this time through a mobile safari company called Penduka, which is neither a low cost, nor an expensive company. During the first part of it (Makgadikgadi, Central Kalahari and Nxaï Pan) we were very lucky to be only the two of us, my wife and me. During the second part (Moremi and Savute), 5 persons joined us.
Steff
Somuch2c
Enjoy your trip, hope you will see more than I do.
Somuch2c
Serena is located on a hill and the view from it on the plains and on the migration when it occurs is stunning. The crossing points on the Mara river are within range of the Serena. So I guess the place will be very busy when you are there.
Hari,
I'm very surprised that a cheetahmaniac like you is never been to Samburu.
With what I saw, you will be in heaven. Can you imagine that we had a private sighting of the last cheetah (on impala kill) we saw during several hours in the morning and again in the afternoon.
Regards
Mike
Div,
No I'm not in the travel business but I have a very good friend in it.
Thank you for the information on leopards, maybe on my next trip in October.
Tom,
Concerning mobile safaris, my experience is limited to 2 trips in Botswana.
The first in 2003, with friends and friends of friends (13 persons + a guide. We rented 4 4X4 vehicles in Joburg and up during 2 weeks to Central Kalahari, Nxaï Pan, Moremi and back to Joburg.
We love it, so we decided in 2004 to renew the experience, this time through a mobile safari company called Penduka, which is neither a low cost, nor an expensive company. During the first part of it (Makgadikgadi, Central Kalahari and Nxaï Pan) we were very lucky to be only the two of us, my wife and me. During the second part (Moremi and Savute), 5 persons joined us.
Steff
Somuch2c
Enjoy your trip, hope you will see more than I do.
Somuch2c
Serena is located on a hill and the view from it on the plains and on the migration when it occurs is stunning. The crossing points on the Mara river are within range of the Serena. So I guess the place will be very busy when you are there.
Hari,
I'm very surprised that a cheetahmaniac like you is never been to Samburu.
With what I saw, you will be in heaven. Can you imagine that we had a private sighting of the last cheetah (on impala kill) we saw during several hours in the morning and again in the afternoon.
Regards
Mike
Aug 8th, 2008, 03:29 PM
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Great report. I was especially interested in the Samburu part. Thanks for all the sightings details.
Along with the Samburu endemics, the 8 cheetah caught my eye as well.
How did you settle on Sopa and Karen Blixen Camp in the Mara? Where is Karen Blixen Camp?
Thank you!
Along with the Samburu endemics, the 8 cheetah caught my eye as well.
How did you settle on Sopa and Karen Blixen Camp in the Mara? Where is Karen Blixen Camp?
Thank you!
Aug 9th, 2008, 05:38 AM
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walrus
in case you mean oct 2008 and really keen on kicheche main camp - you should act as soon as possible because kicheche is extremly heavily booked (a lot of returners as well as coast vacationers doing a quick safari) as it offers great value for money:
11 tents - all ensuite
semi-permanent camp with lovely mess tent
UNLIMITED gamedrives! which is a bonus!!!
the rack is about 350US$/peak pls. 75US$ park/conservancy fees - all pppd.
i am so devasteted that we cannot make it this year. therefore i am very enthusiastic for anybody who is lucky to be able to visit!
div
in case you mean oct 2008 and really keen on kicheche main camp - you should act as soon as possible because kicheche is extremly heavily booked (a lot of returners as well as coast vacationers doing a quick safari) as it offers great value for money:
11 tents - all ensuite
semi-permanent camp with lovely mess tent
UNLIMITED gamedrives! which is a bonus!!!
the rack is about 350US$/peak pls. 75US$ park/conservancy fees - all pppd.
i am so devasteted that we cannot make it this year. therefore i am very enthusiastic for anybody who is lucky to be able to visit!
div
Aug 9th, 2008, 06:55 AM
#13
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Div,
Thank you very much for the details concerning Kicheche.
I meant october 2008 but I also have the intention to go to Botswana, to the Tuli Block and perhaps to Madikwe in RSA. I have not taken a decision on the final destination yet.
Lynn,
My agent settled on Sopa and KBC, because I wanted to spend 3 days in the eastern part of the Mara and 5 days on the other side.
On the eastern part, it could have been Mara Simba or Sarova as well.
KBC is 45 minutes from Musiara Gate, close to Serian, along the river Mara. On the other side of the river, one can see Mpata Safari Lodge, on the ridge.
Regards
Mike
Thank you very much for the details concerning Kicheche.
I meant october 2008 but I also have the intention to go to Botswana, to the Tuli Block and perhaps to Madikwe in RSA. I have not taken a decision on the final destination yet.
Lynn,
My agent settled on Sopa and KBC, because I wanted to spend 3 days in the eastern part of the Mara and 5 days on the other side.
On the eastern part, it could have been Mara Simba or Sarova as well.
KBC is 45 minutes from Musiara Gate, close to Serian, along the river Mara. On the other side of the river, one can see Mpata Safari Lodge, on the ridge.
Regards
Mike
Aug 9th, 2008, 08:18 AM
#14
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walrus,
in case you focus on madikwe check out mateya, makanyane or impodimo; mateya is my favourite and can be compared to singita in view to service but much more personal attention and only 4 pax in a car!
for lower budget: http://www.thebushcamp.com/
happy planning
div
in case you focus on madikwe check out mateya, makanyane or impodimo; mateya is my favourite and can be compared to singita in view to service but much more personal attention and only 4 pax in a car!
for lower budget: http://www.thebushcamp.com/
happy planning
div
Aug 10th, 2008, 02:08 AM
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Tom,
Madikwe is my favourite place in RSA (at least from what I personnally know from RSA), with Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (previously called Gemsbok N.P.).
The reserve is wide. The amount of lodges increased in the last years, too much to my mind. This is of course the ransom of success.
The great advantage of Madikwe is that you can see almost all the species you can find in Southern Africa. It is probably the best place in RSA to see wild dogs.
But it's not having the genuineness of places like Savute, Linyanti/Kwando or Central Kalahari.
I seize the opportunity to tell you that I much appreciated the comments you made in another topic on this forum (Cheetah Blood Brothers Uncut 2004).
Regards
Mike
Madikwe is my favourite place in RSA (at least from what I personnally know from RSA), with Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (previously called Gemsbok N.P.).
The reserve is wide. The amount of lodges increased in the last years, too much to my mind. This is of course the ransom of success.
The great advantage of Madikwe is that you can see almost all the species you can find in Southern Africa. It is probably the best place in RSA to see wild dogs.
But it's not having the genuineness of places like Savute, Linyanti/Kwando or Central Kalahari.
I seize the opportunity to tell you that I much appreciated the comments you made in another topic on this forum (Cheetah Blood Brothers Uncut 2004).
Regards
Mike
Aug 10th, 2008, 06:17 AM
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Back to Samburu: Five nights is longer than most people spend, but I am considering 4 or 5 in maybe 2010, most likely where you stayed.
Were you happy with 5 nights? Did you try to hit different parts of Samburu during that time? Like all the way to Shaba? Were you focusing on finding cheetah, since you mentioned the 1st 8 days were cheetah safari. Or were the cheetah and lion days just per chance?
On to Mara: What were your reasons for 3 nights East and 5 the other side? Was that to increase your odds of a certain species like cheetah, then lion, or some other reason?
Thanks Walrus!
Were you happy with 5 nights? Did you try to hit different parts of Samburu during that time? Like all the way to Shaba? Were you focusing on finding cheetah, since you mentioned the 1st 8 days were cheetah safari. Or were the cheetah and lion days just per chance?
On to Mara: What were your reasons for 3 nights East and 5 the other side? Was that to increase your odds of a certain species like cheetah, then lion, or some other reason?
Thanks Walrus!
Aug 10th, 2008, 09:52 AM
#20
Thanks, walrus, for sharing your experiences, both good and not-so-good, in Kenya. Some of it is discouraging, but perhaps awareness of the problems will lead to solutions someday (ha, I realize how naive that sounds!).
I look forward to reading about your next trip.
I look forward to reading about your next trip.
