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14. Flight from Luxor back to Cairo - afternoon in Khan el-Khalil bazaar
15. Flight home

Hi Karen - look forward to reading your report!

Arrival in Cairo

Our Delta flight was uneventful, although a little bumpy. The food was awful. I kept thinking about that customer complaint letter to Richard Branson of Virgin - “really, Richard...”

http://uk.news.yahoo.com/blog/editors_corner/article/11975/

The meals we had looked a lot like those - “really, Delta.”

Fortunately the flight was half empty, meaning we had space to spread out. Julie snagged three middle seats and I had two on the side, so we did manage a little sleep. The arrival process was easy - and made easier by Michael, the Gap representative who met us and obtained our visas (I think $15?) while we went through passport control.

We were then driven to our hotel and got our first taste of Cairo traffic. It’s unreal. I’ve been to Paris, Rome, Bangkok, and Seoul - and Cairo ranks right up there. Lane markings seem to be irrelevant. There will be five cars across on a road designated for three lanes. Horns are always honking, cars get so close to one another that every few minutes seems a near miss, and pedestrians routinely take their lives into their hands by weaving in and out of passing cars to cross the street. At night, as we learned later, drivers seldom use their headlights - except apparently to greet other cars.

Somehow we arrived in one piece at the Husa Hotel, in Giza. It was nice enough, a typical Western-style tourist hotel, but not in a great location - busy street and too far from the city center to walk to anything tourists might want to see. The beds were hard, the breakfast mediocre.

We took a short nap before setting out to explore the neighborhood. That introductory walk was intense. We were stared at more directly and by more people than I’d ever experienced before. Maybe it was because it wasn’t a tourist section of town and there were no other tourists around. Maybe it was because we were two women walking alone. Maybe it was because we’re both white - really, really white. We were both dressed conservatively, but we might as well have been in bikinis for all the stares we drew - from both men and women. It didn’t seem dangerous but was definitely unnerving.

Almost without exception, the women wore head scarves; most were in long robes (gabaleyas). Men were much more Westernized - usually in jeans.

We stopped at a grocery store to stock up on water (about 3LE, or 75 cents, for a 2-liter bottle) and snacks. TIP: grocery stores are great places to break large bills. We had gotten money from an ATM (which are easy to find throughout Egypt) at the airport but had nothing but 200LE bills. For every-day transactions and especially for bathroom stops, small bills are essential. Change can be difficult to come by.

I bought an ear of corn from a couple of young women along the street for 1LE (20 cents). It wasn’t very good, but I wanted to try it. I asked if I could take their picture. They giggled and nodded yes, but when I aimed the camera, they both hid their face.

We wandered through a local market - with clothing and jewelry and everyday items. We were struck by how many women, in their full robes and head scarves, were gathered around the stalls stocked with sexy lingerie. Go figure.

We made our way back to the hotel, with continued stares, and decided to have dinner there, in a comfortable haven. We went for “safe” food, pizza. It was just ok. The best part was when the waiter, whose English was minimal, asked if Julie was my son. She looks nothing like a boy, so we both laughed on the inside and I smiled and said, yes... my daughter. He smiled and nodded.

We went to bed feeling light-headed from the jet lag... but excited to meet Debbie the next day and start our Cairo tour.

I just know I am going to enjoy your report thoroughly, Karen. You have a very readable style and brought back wonderful memories from a year ago.

great start, can't wait for more!

Thanks for the encouragement! I'll work on it some more tonight. I forgot to mention that after the waiter asked if Julie was my son and I nodded yes (daughter), he said to me, "She's beautiful." As you'll read later, that became a theme throughout the trip.

Great report Karen! Can't wait to read more.

Coptic Cairo

We slept in the next morning, and Debbie picked us up right on time at noon. We went to Coptic Cairo - saw the Hanging Church, Ben Ezra Synagogue, a cemetery, and some other sites whose names I’ve forgotten. It was a pleasant morning, and I’m glad we had the chance to see that area, but with limited time, I’d probably give it a miss. You can get a pretty good flavor of it in a couple of hours, though.

Being with Debbie certainly made things easier. She knew where she was going and how to deal with zealous vendors, so we could relax. Plus this was a more touristy area so we didn’t feel as much on display as the previous day. Several people knew Debbie - “she’s famous,” a couple of guards said. We got a kick out of that - being with a star! There were guards, by the way, at every tourist site. The Egyptian government apparently takes security very seriously, as I’d read before going. I never once felt in danger. Uncomfortable in the face of stares and aggressive sales pitches, yes. But in danger, no. Egypt felt very safe.

We got our first real insight into (at least some) Egyptian sentiment toward Americans at the Ben Ezra synagogue. It was mobbed with people - Egyptians, not Westerners - so Debbie gave us a brief history and waited outside as Julie and I made our way through the crowd. We suddenly became celebrities. Young girls - hundreds of them, so it seemed(!) - were star-struck. A girl would step in front of me, look me in the eye, smile, and say boldly: “Hello! (loudly, as if I might be hard of hearing) What’s your name?” (Every single one said the same thing.)
“Karen, what’s yours?” I'd respond. Clearly delighted that I’d understood and was willing to engage, they’d tell me their name, with all the sincerity an 11-year-old girl can muster. Some went on to ask where I was from, but that apparently exhausted their command of English. Each exchange was dear - and we were both approached (we got separated) about 10 times in 10 minutes. I caught sight of Julie at one point, posing for a picture arm-in-arm with one of the girls. We were charmed, and not expecting such a reception.

Back on the street, local men began greeting us. “Where you from?” “Russia?” “Poland?”
“America,” we responded, “the US,” which was greeted with “Obama! Yes, we can!” and “America number 1.” One guy pointed to an Obama political button pinned to his shirt. Throughout the trip, when people learned we were from the US, they greeted us warmly. Numerous people said simply, “Welcome.”

We stopped in a little tea shop, with a small outdoor courtyard, for a break. Debbie, of course, knew the owner, who brought out several oils and asked us to guess the scent - clove, mint, etc. He gave us each a bracelet, put a little red dot on Julie’s forehead, like an Indian woman (which you can see in some of my Cairo pictures), and told me my daughter’s really pretty. Several (slender) cats jumped on the bench where we were sitting... then onto the table, only to be shooed off by the owner. Debbie told us he had about a dozen cats.

Debbie then took us to the Egypt Craft Center, which is affiliated with some NGOs that ensure profits go to the people who made the products. Prices are fixed, which made it easy (I found bargaining difficult, even though I’d done it in Peru and Southeast Asia). We made a few purchases: scarves, a wooden bowl, a wooden lotus wall hanging, a candle holder. I wish I’d bought more!

I’m going to take a break now (24’s on!) and pick up later. I didn’t mean to go into so much detail... more to come. Next up: Nile sunset aboard a feloucca.

althom1122

What a wonderful start to what will become a fantastic trip report. Your writing style is smooth and relaxed. I love it. I can't wait to read more.

tC

Hi Karen - I am loving your report so far. Now that I have been to Egypt reading a trip report is a totally different experience as I can visualize what you are writing about. I share your frustration regarding shopping. Sometimes in the beginning of a trip I don't buy as much as I might want to as I think I'll have so many more opportunities that I should restrain myself. Please keep up the details, that's what makes a report interesting.

By the way, I hope you are enjoying 24. I am a lot happier with this season than the last one.

Thanks, teacherCanada and jerseysusan! (And yes, I'm enjoying 24! Tonight it's Lost that's going to cut my writing time short.)

Cairo, continued

After shopping, we headed to the Nile for our sunset feloucca ride. On the way, we stopped for sandwiches: eggplant (“but I don’t LIKE eggplant,” I whined), felafel, and “refried beans” (I forget the Egyptian name, but that’s basically what they were). Debbie brought wine, a tablecloth, some fruit, and cookies (Boreos - yup, an Oreo copy-cat). We ordered the sandwiches at a counter-place along a busy street.

At the TGI-Friday’s where we made a bathroom stop (more on bathrooms later), Julie laughed to see people smoking sheesha pipes. In every other way, the restaurant looked just like a TGI-Friday’s in the US.

I’m not sure how much the feloucca rental cost because Debbie included it in our cost, but it was well worth it! What a relaxing way to spend an evening in Cairo. The wind and temperature were perfect. Tall buildings rose from one shore; reeds lined the other -- reeds that, a few thousand years ago, would have been the perfect hiding place for a baby in a basket. Orange and white feloucca sails punctuated the wide river with graceful exclamation points. We had a wonderful time (and, um, the eggplant sandwiches turned out to be my favorite--well, I never liked eggplant BEFORE!). Check out my photos and you’ll see what I mean about the feloucca ride. In case you missed the link: http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/f309561202

Then it was off to the market to order cartouches. Debbie was wearing one with the hieroglyphs cut out rather than on a solid background, and Julie and I both wanted the same thing. We under-estimated how hard it would be! Traffic was terrible. There were no real lanes, just a mass of cars, maybe five across, barely moving, with drivers jockeying for position whenever any space appeared. Wedding parties provided amusement, with drivers engaging in rhythmic horn-honking that Debbie said is called “wedding beeps” - sort of like dueling banjos. It was hilarious.

Debbie, Julie, and I jumped out of the car about a mile before the bazaar and started walking - it was faster. We scurried along, literally inches from the outside lane of traffic. Occasionally people, or a motorcycle, would squeeze past us. Finally we came to a pedestrian bridge and were able to cross over and descend to the bazaar. It felt a little like (not that I’ve done it) jumping into a salmon stream during spawning season. The hustle-bustle of the narrow alleys was unreal. We stayed as close to Debbie as possible and finally made it to the jewelry shop. Between us, we ordered 10 or 12 silver cartouches ($15 each, chain included).

Debbie called the driver on her cell phone and we headed back to the hotel for a well-earned rest. Tomorrow: Islamic Cairo.

Hi again Karen. Thanks for continuing your report. I enjoyed tonight's "episode". I too loved sailing in a felucca, my experience with them was in Aswan. I also bought a cartouche but with a solid background, I hope you are as happy with yours as I am - yours sounds lovely. Boy the traffic in Cairo sure was something else, it seems everyone marvels at it. Your walk sounded like a real adventure. Well looking foward to your impressions of Islamic Cairo.

By the way, hope you enjoyed tonight's Lost. I love that show.

I am loving your report Karen! I have to admit, one of the many things I REALLY miss about living in Cairo are the felluca rides! It was always such a wonderful way to unwind with friends after a hectic week! (Best done with a cooler of beer/wine and lots of snacks!)

As for the traffic....been there, drove it, survived it! It's not for the faint of heart!!!! But sure makes driving back in the US seem boring!!!!

Felucca! That's right. I kept thinking I wasn't spelling it right and meant to look it up but just never did. Thanks.
(And thanks for the comments on my report! I never mean to include so much detail, but somehow it just ends up that I do.)

Grcxx3 - You aren't going to believe where I made them jump out of the car - You know the fly over from Opera Square that runs over to the Khan and drops back down to the surface right before the Green Bridge? Yep, we walked almost the whole length of it. That night was UNBELIEVABLE traffic. You couldn't go anywhere and have it move. We tried. We tried everything - finally getting out and walking seemed like the only way.

I hope everyone liked their cartouches.

Falouka ride is usually LE100 (LE40 per hour and LE20 tip to the captain). I'm pretty certain that is what we paid that night.

althom - since Arabic is a very phonetic type language with no real vowels.....spellings vary. As long as you get the general "sound" from the spelling - you're doing fine!

Debbie - Can't believe that's where you got out! Sounds like an experience!

Yes, it was an experience! I loved it.

And Debbie - yes the cartouches have been a hit. Plus, we got tons of compliments from our tour group. Glad you're reading!

althom - keep it coming. I just love hearing stories from real people about their real experiences. While most follow a general pattern (there are a set number of things tourists do in Egypt) the individual stories are a blast to read.

Do you remember the name of the store where you purchased the cartouches? They sound great - and a great price too.

tC

tC - actually I DO know the name of the shop, because they put each cartouche in a little black velvet bag with the store name on it:

Gouzlan Group Jewellers.
Telephones: 25904721 or 25931064 or 25884061.

It was in the Khalili bazaar - the hieroglyph card that came with them mentions several locations, including 6 Khan El Khalili (if that helps).

I'll take a picture of one and add it to my photos (prob over the weekend - will post the link when I've done it).

ah yes.......the Gouzlan shop in Ma'adi got a LOT of my business!!!!! Loved that place!

Wow!

Thanks so much for the prompt responses. I was thinking there wouldn't be much chance of getting a name or address. I thought I might have to log on in Cairo. That's wonderful to have the name of the jeweller. I am unsure whether we will be going to the Khalili bazaar due to the recent bombing. I am glad to see there are other stores in the same firm.

Well, it's after 9:00 p.m. and I want to have a glass of wine with my lovely wife before I collapse into bed. We have an early morning bus ride to the airport. Everyone in our group of 49 is fantastically excited about our 15 day trip to the land of sand. A trip report has already been started and I will certainly be adding to it over the next weeks.

Thanks again.

tC

Omigosh - I just happened to check one more time before heading upstairs to read (a book, not more Fodor's) and saw your note, tC. Have a GREAT trip. I had seen some of your thread before but hadn't made the connection in my mind that it was from you. I need to go catch up on it. You'll have a wonderful time.

tc - if you don't use the Gouzlan in the Khan, tell them to call Shaggy, Mamdouh or Said at the Khan store to verify that these cartouches should be sold to you at $15 (might go up to $18 if silver changes price significantly, or if you want them oxidized instead of cut out, or some other minor change) as that is my price on them. I am not well known at the other shops, but Said (pronounced Si-EED) owns all the shops and can tell them that Miss Debbie gets this price and if you come with my name, you should get the fair price.

Thank you Debbie.
I still look forward to connecting with you in a day or two. I have your number on my "master list" of important things. I really appreciate all the advice and counsel you have so freely offered.

tC

Cairo - continued (Islamic Cairo)

The next morning at breakfast, the "head waiter" seemed taken with me. He kept smiling and coming over to check whether I needed anything. At one point, he made two triangles out of six toothpicks. He told us to move one stick and make four. When we gave up, he moved the right wall of one of the triangles down and to the left to make the numeral 4... (groan).
Breakfast was so-so (except for that entertainment). There were lots of pastries that I didn't try, hard-boiled eggs, cereal, and a few hot dishes, none of which were appealing. I had a hard-boiled egg and cereal every morning we were there. No fruit.

Debbie picked us up at 9:30 and we headed for the Citadel. It was a gorgeous morning, sunny, high 60s. Droves of tourists, almost all Egyptians, were walking up the hill to the entrance. At the top, a young girl, 12 or 13, came over to Julie and wanted her brother to take a picture of Julie and her together (I got one, too).

We saw three mosques:
- An-Nasir - the oldest with a large open-air courtyard. There were lots of people and a guy wanting to help with your shoes for some baksheesh.
- Suleyman Pasha - my favorite. It was a little out of the way and when we arrived, we had the place to ourselves (except workers). The mosaics and stonework were gorgeous. Debbie asked one of the workers to demonstrate the call to prayer. He did so, his voice reverberating throughout the large domed room. The acoustics were amazing.
- Muhammad Ali - the most famous one. I enjoyed it less than Suleyman, though, because it was so crowded. We had several photo requests inside. It was also the only one where Julie had to put on a robe because she was dressed immodestly. (We didn't actually think it was immodest, but evidently the sleeves revealed too much of her upper arms - plus it was a tad low-cut.) One woman approached, asking if she could take a picture of Julie with her small (2 or 3 year old daughter). When Julie bent down to pick the girl up, the mother's face lit up as if she'd won the lottery. Not only was Julie consenting to having her picture taken, she was actually picking the daughter up. Don't miss the city view from this mosque - it's fabulous.

Throughout the visit, we noticed women lurking close to us, timid but interested. If we met their eyes, they'd giggle and grin at us. There were a few others who were American/Canadian/Australian/European - but not many. White people definitely stuck out like a sore thumb.

Next stop was Ibn Tulun, where a service was in session. We thought this mosque was worth a quick visit. Beautiful arches and columns surround the huge courtyard. The Gayer-Anderson museum is next door - we skipped it. (Debbie - I kind of wish we'd checked it out! Oh well.)

Across the street, we stopped at a great souvenir shop (mentioned in several guidebooks) - Misr Touloun. Prices were fixed and marked. I bought a couple pieces of pottery (plates) and a T-shirt.

From there we drove to the City of the Dead, where a large and thriving community lives among the tombstones and mausoleums. We did a quick drive-through and stopped at a glass-blower's shop. The craftsman made a vase with a snake wrapped around it as we watched.

Then it was downtown for lunch at a bustling kosherie place, where we ate big bowls of the popular Egyptian dish for about $1.50 each. The restaurant didn't serve anything else - the only choices were small, medium, or large. Kosherie is made up of lentils, pasta, chickpeas, rice and some other stuff. You then topped it with a tomato sauce. Cheap, filling and delicious.

Next we picked up our cartouches and bought galabeyas in the bazaar, with Julie having to fend off the numerous men who were immediately smitten: "gorgeous," "sweet," "beautiful eyes," "a million camels wouldn't be enough for you." The comments were never-ending - and it continued throughout the trip. I felt like I was with Angelina Jolie. One man offered 500 camels for her. Another asked me to name the price - "how many camels for your daughter?"

We stopped at the famous Fishawy's in the Khalili bazaar for mint tea. What a great place for people-watching, sheesha smoking (we didn't try it... not yet) and just soaking up the atmosphere. It can get crowded, but it's a lot of fun.

That evening back at our hotel, Julie and I wimped out on finding Egyptian food and ate at McDonald's. The hardest part was crossing the unbelievably busy street - a main drag in Giza. We finally figured out that the way to do it is get close to a local, "up-river" from traffic, and go when they go. It was scary and I thought sure we were going to die at any moment, but somehow we made it.

Afterwards, Julie wanted to hang out in the room, while I met the rest of our group for the first time. We were 16 in all: an Australian family of four, a young Canadian couple, a young woman from South Africa, and the rest Americans. Our tour guide was a 30-something (handsome) Egyptian named Abraheem. I wasn't sure what to think that first evening. Everyone was kind of quiet, but it became clear in short-order that we had a great group.

Tomorrow: pyramids (camels!) and Egyptian museum.

Hi Karen - your latest post made reminded me of a few things. One night on our boat our waiter showed us the same toothpick trick, actually I noticed tables near ours also trying to figure it out. Who knows maybe it got passed around throughout Egypt.

Kosherie was on the top of my list of foods to try in Egypt. It was a dish I prepared at home before I left as I wanted to try the cuisine. I love to cook and am always experimenting. I really enjoyed the huge plate of it I was served in Cairo.

As always I was happy to continue reading about your trip. Looking foward to your next installment.

Susan

I was at Gayer-Anderson today with a group of 4. They came out and said they LOVED it.

At least you left one thing to do next time you come back!

CC

Great report, no such thing as too many details. And I agree with all the Egyptians, Julie is very attractive, she has a lovely open smile.

Thanks, Femi! I'm not very objective, obviously, but I think she's lovely, too!

More Cairo

Pyramid day! YAY! When I looked out our hotel window, though, my heart sank. Oh no: fog and overcast skies. What's with this? Moreover, brr... it was chilly!

We climbed aboard the small bus for the first time with our 14 tour-mates and Abraheem. A 15-minute drive down the busy suburb street and we were there. Abraheem got the tickets for all of us (as he did from then on out), and we entered the gate.

There it was! The largest of the three big ones at Giza. (There are actually more than three there, which I hadn't realized. There are a few small ones - queens' tombs.) I was so excited. It's weird how they're just right there in the suburbs. When you come out the exit gate, just across the street is a KFC.

Facing the pyramids, though, with your back to the gate, you couldn't see the suburbs. And when we went around to the backside... but wait, I'm getting ahead of myself.

Abraheem herded us to a spot maybe 100 yards from the pyramid to give us the lowdown. I was sooo impatient (not to mention cold). I wanted to run over to it and touch it and look at it from the bottom and take pictures. Julie threw me a look telling me to behave. After about 40 minutes, Abraheem finally released us and we hurried over (as if it might be going somewhere after 4,500 years). It was farther away than I'd thought! The perspective is weird - you think you're right next to it but you're not. It's bigger than you first realize. Each stone is humongous. Plus, I had this misperception - I thought the pyramids were smooth, like a tile floor. I didn't realize each stone stuck out individually (if that makes sense). Duh.

We had the option of going into the tomb in the big pyramid for an extra fee (I forget how much - maybe $10 or $15?) or going into a smaller tomb for free. No one wanted to do the big pyramid. And we also had the option to take a 45-minute camel ride for$20! Everyone in the group did it. Yay us!

Abraheem showed us how to take a picture that looked like you were touching the top of the pyramid - similar to the shots in Pisa of people "holding up" the Leaning Tower. What a hoot.

Next stop: bathroom. I was expecting the bathrooms in Egypt to be terrible. For the most part (at tourist attractions anyway), not so. Nearly all of them had an attendant, who kept it reasonably clean, handed out toilet paper when you entered, and gave you a paper towel when you washed your hands... in exchange for a small tip (1LE - about 18 cents). (Make sure you have lots of small bills or coins for bathroom tips.)

Over at the queen's small pyramid, we went down the ramp to the tomb. You had to go backward down the low and narrow passageway; fortunately, it wasn't too steep. There wasn't really anything to see inside. We took a couple of pictures and came back up.

We decided not to pay extra for the solar boat, although some in our group did. They thought it was interesting, but it didn't appeal that much to us, and I didn't hear rave reviews.

The group was to meet Abraheem over by the second pyramid to head for the camel ride. We got our first dose of Abraheem's whistle. It could be heard for what seemed like miles. He used it whenever he wanted to round us up. We all liked it because it made him easy to find.

The bus took us around to the other side of the pyramids where you could look off into the distance and see nothing but sand, rocks, and sky. And by this time, the fog had lifted, the air had warmed, and we had a beautiful, blue-sky day. A group of guides and camels were waiting. Abraheem assigned us each to a guide, and it was time to climb aboard - easier said than done.

Even on its knees, a camel is TALL. Very tall. No way could I get up on that camel by myself. Julie later told me hers had stirrups, but I didn't see any on mine. The guide kept trying to take hold of my arm, but I'd shrink away and point to my shoulders saying, "No. Shoulder problems." Of course he had no idea what I was trying to say.

He did figure out, though, that I wasn't going to do it his way. Finally he said: "I pick you up." And the next thing I knew, he'd come around behind me, put his arms around my waist, and slung me up on that camel. Whoa. How'd that happen so fast? I found myself sitting on a flat, blanket-covered saddle with a wooden pommel in the front and back. Suddenly, that camel stood up and I grabbed the front pommel and held on for dear life. Lean way back as he straightens his front legs. Then forward as he straightens his back legs. Good grief, how tall is this thing?

Well, we had a ball. Everyone was laughing and smiling. The guides hooked several camels together in a line. Denise was behind me and her camel kept trying to pass mine - which was pokey and cranky and didn't want to go at all. So her camel had his head almost against my leg for most of the ride. I reached out and touched the top of his head a couple of times. Julie was in a different group and her camel also kept trying to pass the one in front of her. Julie also later told me that her camel tried standing up before she was all the way on.

When we'd go down a hill, the camels would speed up (naturally), and the guides would tell us to lean back. And when they'd go uphill, we were to lean forward. It was really fun. Getting down was a little scary. Back down on his knees, back legs first (lean forward), then front legs. Mine was so cranky and kept braying - he sounded like a mule.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p907013447/h1b44121b#h150cbf0e

It was a great experience - one of the highlights of the trip for me. I think everyone really enjoyed it. I was glad to be on a tour because our guide had already made the arrangements, and we got a nice 45-minute ride for what was probably a reasonable price - and no hassle. I doubt we could have done as well on our own.

Regarding tipping, at the beginning of the tour, Abraheem asked us to give him, I think, $40 per person for all the tips for the entire trip. He told us not to tip anyone for anything we did together - that he'd take care of it. I wasn't crazy about the arrangement initially, but I'm glad we did it that way. It made things much easier. The camel guides tried to get tips from us before Abraheem got to them, and when he found out, he yelled at them and made them give the money back to the few people who succumbed.

After the camel ride, we made the obligatory papyrus shopping stop. I didn't buy anything - probably should have - but we got a papyrus-making demo, which was interesting. I didn't know you could get papyrus wet, wring it out, and it would stay intact.

We stopped for lunch at a restaurant right along the Nile. It was a buffet and ok. Not great, but not bad either. Then we headed for the Egyptian museum. And I've once again written more than I intended, so I'll leave it at that for tonight. More to come!

I forgot to tell you about the Sphinx. I'll include that in my next installment.

I'm enjoying your report. You have an appealing writing style, and I love all the little details.

Karen, I'm currently planning a trip to Egypt, I am enjoying your trip report and find it is very helpful for those planning a trip.

Hi Karen - Your experience with the camel made me laugh. I know I didn't enjoy my ride nearly as much as I was sure I would fall off the whole time. I don't think it helped that I had my large handbag with me. I think I wrote about the foul tempered camel I rode on. I only wish my guide gave me helpful hints.

Also happy to read your impressions of the pyramids. Looking foward to your next post.

Susan

Karen --
My Mom and I are considering a trip to Egypt later this year, and your trip report has been WONDERFUL guidance for us. Your review of the camel ride made me laugh out loud! I love all of the details and can't wait for your next post.
- Kristen

Karen

I know you said that you took a GAP tour for most of Egypt. Can you please tell me which one? Did it include the hot air balloon ride ?

Thank you

Muriel

Kristen - thanks! The camel ride was a hoot. I hope to add to the post later this evening.

Muriel - we took the Egypt Explorer tour (DPEE). The balloon ride was an optional excursion - $80 per person. We thought it was well worth it. Only 4 in our group did it. Some had already been ballooning; for others, it was more than they wanted to spend.
Abu Simbel - often an option on tours - was included. It's one of their "comfort" tours - so you get a Nile cruise on a regular cruise boat (it was very nice - details to follow later) rather than a felucca.

Ha ha! That's some death grip you've got on the pommel!

Jerseysusan is right, I think your ride was more enjoyable because you got instructions. All my camel did was stand up and I made them put me down, afraid I'd fall off.

Cairo - continued

After seeing the pyramids, we walked over to the sphinx. I assumed that the entrance fee to the pyramids also got you in to see the sphinx. But not - you had to exit the pyramids, get a separate ticket, and go through a separate entrance. I don't know the cost; Abraheem got out tickets.

Once inside, you pass through some high stone walls - not a maze, exactly, more like tall (maybe 20-foot high) passageways. We noticed at least one of the corners was rounded stones. Interestingly, it was very similar to some of the Inca ruins in Peru, including Machu Picchu. We marveled during our visit there that the Incas figured out in 1500 A.D. that rounded corners increased the strength of a wall, making it more earthquake-resistant. (A pic from Machu Picchu: http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p450948269/he986761#he986761

What we didn't know then was that the Egyptians figured it out a few thousand years earlier!

In short order, you emerge from the passageways, and the sphinx is RIGHT THERE in your face. The sphinx threw me for a loop. From the pyramids, it looked tiny - a disappointment. But up close (although you can't go right up to it like you can the pyramids), it's huge.

In all the pictures I'd seen, the sphinx looks similar in scale to the pyramid behind it - as if the pyramid is the doghouse and the sphinx is the dog. In fact, the sphinx is WAY smaller - mouse-sized rather than dog-sized. It's because in the pictures the sphinx is close and the pyramids are far away. (Similar to the effect of taking a picture with someone touching the top of the pyramid.) It's not that the sphinx is small. To the contrary, it's that the pyramids are humongous.

We only spent about 15 minutes at the sphinx. Once you see it, you've seen it. The viewpoint is kind of a ledge overlooking the sphinx. We took pictures of each of us "kissing" the sphinx (both of us missed its mouth in spite of the other one saying, "lower, lower.") http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p907013447/h146f0cfc#h146f0cfc (I didn't post the one of me because I look so dorky.) There were some fairly aggressive vendors - quite a few kids - selling miniature pyramids and so on.

From there, as I mentioned earlier, we went to lunch, the papyrus place, and then to the Egyptian museum. As others have reported, the museum (like the pyramids) is a must-see. We spent about 2 hours there with Abraheem guiding us through the ground floor, explaining some of the highights.

We learned why statues of pharaohs have their left foot forward (it signifies their divine status), why the legs of seated statues are often out of proportion to the bodies (so the statue won't tip over backwards), that only the mummies of royalty had their arms folded, and that a double crown meant that the king ruled both Upper and Lower Egypt. King Tut's stuff (upstairs) is truly amazing. He was, indeed, a golden boy! There were large storage boxes (big enough to fit a car inside) completely plated with 640 carat gold, yup, 640 carat. It was so soft you could basically write on it with something sharp. And of course, the funerary mask was gorgeous (although actually, a little smaller than I was expecting).

The mummy room was an extra 100LE (about $18). I thought it was well worth it. The mummies (maybe about 20?) were displayed really well in a dim room with just the right lighting on each case. It was very atmospheric and not terribly jammed with people when we were there. Tut's area was much more crowded. There's a free "mummy room" with some animal mummies. Interesting, but it doesn't compare. If you spend the money to go all the way to Egypt, definitely spring for the mummy room!

I would have liked a little more time at the museum (a second visit would have been nice), but it didn't work out - and we got a great sampling in a couple of hours. You could do it on your own, without a guide, but I think our guide definitely enhanced our visit - we learned much more than we would have on our own. No pictures were allowed, by the way, anywhere in the museum - they collect your cameras before you enter.

After the museum, it was back to our hotel to pack up for our departure to Alexandria in the morning. (We had a light dinner of minestrone soup and garlic bread in the hotel.)

More tomorrow...

aarrgh. i wish there was an edit function - sorry for the typos!

Hi again Karen - as always enjoying your report. I agree about the mummy room. Not everyone in our group spent the money to go in, but my son and I thought it was well worth it. Seeing hair or teeth that old is quite amazing.

Susan

FYI - I don't know what Abraheem was doing, but he couldn't have been buying more tickets to the Sphinx, because your assumption is correct - it is included with the price of the Giza Plateau ticket. Since you weren't paying for each site as needed, I'm sure he was just dealing with someone about something else.
Just wanted to clear that up for anyone that is going in the future. You buy one ticket for the Giza Plateau and that will get you inside the park and to the Sphinx and into a number of other small temples etc. It will NOT get you into the Solar Boat museum, or inside any of the big pyramids. Those are all extra and optional.

Ah, maybe he took our tickets after we presented them at the pyramids and gave them back to us at the sphinx? I definitely remember going through a separate ticket entrance to get inside - up close to the sphinx - but maybe he just redistributed the tickets we had already used. I don't remember. Thanks for clarifying, Debbie!

What you said about needing more time in the museum is so true. 2 hrs with a guide gives you a nice overview with some historical detail (there's not a lot of signage explaining what you're looking at) but if you have any free time in your tour you should definitely go back and spend as much time as you can by yourself.

I loved how Victorian it felt -- the old wooden cases, everything just mish-mashed in together, no air-coniditioning! Sort of sad to think of them building a new, modern museum. People should hurry & see it while they can!

Karen - did you see the wigs? They were not far from the mummified animal room. Too funny, some of them were huge afro wigs like a foot high.

Also, 100% agree with the mummy room being worth the extra fee. So cool to see Ramses II after hearing so much about him and viewing all of his temples, etc.

Leslie - yes, I agree - the atmosphere and the way things were displayed were wonderful. I know what you mean about the no air conditioning and the mish-mash of things - a bit more orderly than someone's attic, but a little like that.
I think it would be nice to get the overview at the beginning of a trip to Egypt and do the return visit at the end after touring Aswan and Luxor. I think a lot of things would have made more sense to me at the end. In fact, as we'd hear about Ramses II, I'd struggle to remember for sure which one he was - because at the time I didn't have the context - didn't understand how important he was. In some ways, I too think it will be sad to see everything moved to a new (and almost certainly more sterile) building.
And, no, I don't remember seeing the wigs! Drat, that's the very kind of thing I get a kick out of. We must have missed them. As we were heading toward the mummy room (and time was getting tight), I remember Julie saying she wished we had more time. Both of us love museums.

From Cairo to Alexandria

We had an early departure (7 a.m.) for Alexandria. The bus ride, once we were out of the Cairo traffic, was relaxing - an easy 3 hours on an interstate-type highway through desolate desert scenery.

Alexandria has a different feel from Cairo. It's hard to explain. What stands out in my mind are the narrow streets, crowded with people and lined with interesting shops - plus the busy promenade running along the beach and harbor. Unfortunately, we didn't have time during the day to just wander the streets. Many of the locals were just hanging out on the sidewalks. I got a kick out of this guy who caught my eye while we were on the bus. If you click on the left thumbnail in the upper right corner, there are some other Alexandria street scenes.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p965366210/h7592d87#h3a1febe

Lunch was at a fish restaurant overlooking the harbor (so-so), then we went to the Catacombs, my favorite Alexandria stop (but not Julie's). It doesn't look like much from the outside... because, of course, it's underground. To enter, you go down a long spiral staircase wrapping around the wall of what looks like a large, very deep well. You then step out into a series of rooms and labyrinth-like hallways with beautiful archways, statues, and carvings. Only one mummy was found. He's not there now, but there are some horse's bones - plus lots of empty tombs, statues, and cobra carvings. It was an eclectic mix of Roman and Egyptian styles - and very cool.
If you're interested in more details and pictures - no photography was allowed - this link provides tons of info: http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/komelshuqafa.htm

We also visited Pompey's Pillar - interesting (especially the ancient underground "library" with shelves where manuscripts were kept) but missable, and the Biblioteca, Julie's favorite Alexandria spot. With its soaring, angled ceiling and dozens of columns, the modern library is indeed impressive. You can get free internet time here.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p965366210/h672a483#h672a483

Our hotel (Mercure) overlooked the Mediterranean. Views were great and the room was clean and comfortable. There was traffic noise from the busy street below, but we slept pretty well anyway. http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p965366210/h16bf2a1f#h16bf2a1f

That evening, our bus driver dropped us off downtown, and Abraheem turned us loose for 2-3 hours of wandering the crowded streets. We had dinner at an Egyptian fast-food restaurant, Gad, a bustling stand with a guy carving slices of beef from a large chunk of meat on a skewer right on the sidewalk. We had beef schwarma, kind of like a philly cheesesteak sub. It was delicious and cheap. (See this photo and the next:
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p965366210/h672a483#h1e935060

Afterwards, we strolled the busy, well-lit shopping district, which was packed with people (many of whom stared at us) shopping for shoes, electronics, clothing, and more. We couldn't resist an ice cream at Baskin-Robbins and some cookies in a small grocery store (where the cashier told Julie she's beautiful). We passed a disco with music blaring and a machine that was blowing hundreds of bubbles into the air. The whole scene was fascinating - the air was full of excitement and energy.

And since I'm not (full of energy)... I'll quit here for now. More later. (I think I'll add a couple of night shots to my Alexandria online album.)

I added three, this one and two more - click on the right thumbnail:

http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p965366210/h3d4ff5f7#h3d4ff5f7

Alexandria - continued, then to Aswan

The next morning we saw a few additional Alexandria sights:

- a lighthouse, bridge, and Mediterranean overlook (it was sooo windy!)

- a mosque with lovely ceilings (the men got to go in the front entrance and the main part of the mosque; the women had to go in a side entrance and stay behind a fenced barrier)

- Ft. Qaitbey, which was pretty interesting and offered a great view of the city skyline. The highlight for me was when a guy in his late 20s followed me along the outer wall and as I turned to rejoin our group, said, "I love you." I'm guessing it was the only English he knew. I responded, "You're too young for me."

It rained for about 15 minutes as we were driving along the coast. We were told it had only rained twice so far this year. We were lucky to see a rainbow over the Mediterranean.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p965366210/h440b0ab#h440b0ab

Before leaving for Cairo to catch the night train to Alexandria, we stopped at a shopping mall (very Western-style) with a grocery store (we picked up some water and snacks for the train) and a big food court (lunch at McDonald's). A sign in the parking lot said in English, sort of: The regulation of the high way code applies to the parking lot.

On our way back to Cairo, we visited a Coptic monastery at Wadi Natrun. It's about 15 miles off the main road and well worth a stop. A service was under way when we arrived, but we were allowed inside the outer hallways and could see inside to where communion was in progress.

Julie and I were almost immediately befriended by a girl of about 9, who gave us each a sticker and a little oil for dabbing on your forehead. She wanted her picture taken with Julie and before we knew it, we were surrounded by the entire family, who were delighted when they learned my name... because they had a small daughter also named Karen.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p965366210/h98b4982#h159d2d6d

Many smiles and photos later, we rejoined our group for the tour given by one of the monks. He was captivating - an older guy with a full beard, very spry and very passionate about his beliefs regarding education, tolerance, and peace in the world (some in our group thought he was preachy and opinionated - but we loved him). He had a twinkle in his eye.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p965366210/h11122b1b#h11122b1b

As we were listening, I noticed two young teen-aged boys watching us from a distance. I aimed my camera and zoomed in for a shot. They caught my eye and, using hand motions, asked if I'd taken their picture. I smiled and nodded yes, and they both, looking cool and nonchalant as adolescents do, gave me a thumbs-up sign.

Back in Cairo, we stopped at cotton store (several in our group bought t-shirts) before heading to the train station for our overnight journey to Aswan. We had a 45-minute wait at the busy station. The bathrooms, not surprisingly, were the worst I encountered on the trip. A woman attendant insisted on a tip before you could enter, but I'm not sure what we were paying for! The squat toilets were pretty dirty. When I came out of the stall, a young woman was washing her foot in the sink.

The train ride was fun, although long.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h35c57d15#h2d5ca258 (you can see by the look on his face that the attendant was taken with Julie).

Our group took up nearly an entire car, and the accommodations were pretty decent. Each compartment had two seats and a sink. An attendant served dinner (not great but better than Delta), and when it was bed time, he converted the seats into bunk beds. They were reasonably comfortable, although one of the men in our group said they were too short for him (he was over 6 feet). There were two bathrooms at the end of the car - a toilet (that flushed to the ground outside) and a sink. I thought it was reasonably clean. One of the women in our group was sick during the train ride, and she later told me she thought the restrooms were awful. I'd seen far worse - including the one at the station.

Unfortunately, the train broke down in the middle of the night and delayed us over 5 hours. We arrived in Aswan, anxious to get off that train(!), around 3:30 the next afternoon, 22 hours after we'd boarded...

More to come.

Great report on Egypt. I myself have been there. I did a tour with Trafalgar and it was fantastic. We stayed at the Mena House Oberoi in Giza. What a beautiful hotel. Great restaurants, nice rooms, nice pool,etc. There was also a 4 day cruise on the Nile and so much more. What a beautiful country.

Foot washing in the sinks is common in a country where Muslims wash before prayer. Unfortunately they tend to splash water from floor to ceiling and no one wipes it up so it's always wet in the bathrooms... fortunately it's generally water that makes it wet.

And you're right about the toilets in the trainstations. For some reason it's like they sell admission tickets there. It's not common to run into that sort of demand for money at the toilet where you can't just tell them to wait til you are finishsed. It seems to be the only place where they can actually hold you hostage until you pay.

The woman that was sick on the train was probably responsible for the bathrooms getting yukky. Tourists tend to be the ones that barf in bathrooms and don't clean it up, then the next tourist goes in and complains wildly about Egyptian bathrooms being yukky.
Not that anyone that feels that crappy feels like cleaning up a bathroom, but before anyone complains about Egyptian bathrooms, please remember who is using them mostly.
Speaking of which - this is a good time to remind those that have not been here before to toss your TP in the wastebasket if there is one provided in the toilet stall instead of in the toilet. Not all toilets have enough water pressure to get the paper down and then once the build up of paper begins, it's next to impossible to get it down the drain. It's easier and cleaner to just dispose of it in the wastebasket (if one is provided) and let the plumbing take care of the rest.

Hi Karen - I loved reading about your time in Alexandria as you saw many things I didn't, I've never visited catacombs anywhere. We did not have time to wander around the streets, it looked so interesting. I am also having fun reviewing your photos in context. Another great job.

Susan

Susan - glad you liked the photos intermingled with the text. I wondered if anybody would bother to look at them or if they were merely a distraction. Here are the boys who gave me the thumbs-up after they learned via hand motions that I'd taken their picture.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p965366210/h5b28f0d#h5b28f0d

Debbie - actually in this case it wasn't the sick woman who made the bathrooms yucky. She was the one who said they WERE yucky. I used both of them and I didn't think either one was bad. My impression was that her standards for decent might have been higher than mine. I don't think she had traveled to less-developed countries before. Good reminder about the toilet paper! We first learned in Peru that the trash cans next to the toilet were for the TP and had a terrible time remembering to use them. I finally got it right while in Egypt.

The photos interminlged is a good idea. I'm enjoying seeing them again as I read what was going on when they were taken.

It IS hard to train yourself to use the wastebasket for TP!

Aswan

In Aswan we checked into Isis Hotel, overlooking the Nile, before heading out for our evening felucca ride and Nubian dinner. We walked down the stairs from our hotel, and our boat was right there waiting. (The tour company certainly made the logistics easy.)

The Aswan Nile is very different from the Cairo Nile - much more scenic. The air is clear, the light is crisp, and the river is very blue and studded with islands. After a short ride,
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3dbbab53#h3dbbab53 (see this one and the next few), we arrived at Kitchener's Island for a stroll through the lovely and peaceful Botanic Gardens. A young girl captured my attention and posed for a picture. http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3af735a7#h3af735a7

Abraheem told us about a boy who would come up to the boat on a small float (looked like a piece of styrofoam) and could sing in any language. Sure enough, the boy soon appeared and paddled to our boat, whereupon he began singing. He'd sing a line or two and Abraheem would call out a language. The boy would stop and start again in another language (presumably the one Abraheem said). Abraheem and the boy went through about a dozen languages - English, French, Chinese, Japanese, Norwegian, Romanian, Russian, and so on. It was unreal. Naturally, we gave him a tip. There appeared to be several boys in the same business - we saw two or three floating around. See this picture and the previous one (left thumbnail):
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3af735a7#h208caf14

Next we headed past Elephantine Island and to the Nubian village where dinner had been arranged for us in a large home obviously set up to receive tourists. Julie got to hold a crocodile. Then Abraheem helped serve up dinner on the outdoor deck. We had multiple courses - salads, chicken, rice, spaghetti - all good.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3af735a7#h3ebf5098
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3af735a7#h2b50253f

After dinner, Julie befriended the small and very shy daughter of the proprietor and was finally rewarded with a smile after spending quite awhile blowing bubbles and talking to her.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3af735a7#h3738dea2
(this one and click on the right thumbnail for the subsequent smile)

Then it was back to our hotel to get a good night's sleep (after the previous rather fitful night on the train) in preparation for Abu Simbel-woohoo!-in the morning.

More to come.

Karen -

Thanks for the details on the Egyptian Museum. I had been wondering whether we should pull that off our itinerary because we don't have much time in Cairo, but it sounds like it's a MUST SEE. And thanks also for the comments about the train. I've been looking for feedback about the train experience because we're trying to decide whether to take the overnight train or fly to Aswan.

Looking forward to the details about Abu Simbel!
Kristen

Yes, the Egyptian museum is a must=see, I think. Even if you're not that much into museums, this is a wonderful one.
And the train is fine = an interesting experience. In spite of the delay, I'm glad we did it.

Your comments about the old-fashioned atmosphere of the Egyptian museum reminded me that prior to the late 90s, the priceless treasures of King Tut were displayed in ordinary wooden cabinets secured only by large padlocks!

the priceless treasures of King Tut were displayed in ordinary wooden cabinets secured only by large padlocks!

A lot of them (well, maybe not the priceless ones) still are (actually, I'm not sure they're even padlocked) -- not everything is in the "King Tut room".

Karen - some singing boys were there for our felluca trip also - they sang "row row row your boat" in every language - very cute! I couldn't believe what they were rowing could actually float - seemed like a little piece of cardboard and they were paddling with two other smaller pieces.

Did you notice the oars they used on other small boats? Ones I saw were just straight pieces of wood, like a 2 x 4 without any kind of paddle form on the end. I was so curious about why they wouldn't shape an oar that was a little more efficient. The oars in the drawings in the tombs were "normal" oars so it's not that their culture never figured that out. Hmmm...just seems so much more difficult. Would be like swimming with no hands.

Abu Simbel - oh my!

Our flight to Abu Simbel was not terribly early - I think we left the hotel around 8 for the half-hour drive to the little airport. Although I'd have liked the light of early morning for photos, Julie was happy we didn't have to get up before dawn.

The plane was surprisingly large - three seats on each side - and was full, or nearly so. We flew over an expanse of brown desert and the beautiful blue of Lake Nasser (created when the Aswan High Dam was built in the 1960s). http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3586bc75#h33ad2f8e
Within about 45 minutes, we were there.

We saw lots of fabulous sights on our trip, but none more jaw-dropping than Abu Simbel... except maybe the Valley of the Kings...
and maybe the pyramids... and...
well, suffice it to say Abu Simbel was a pretty special headliner among a large cast of headliners. And what a gorgeous day we had - a royal (Ramses II?) blue sky with comfortable temperatures (low 80s).

When you get off the bus, you can't see the temple at all. You kind of sneak up on it from behind. You walk down a long, dusty trail, toward Lake Nasser and then suddenly you round a corner and get a glimpse of it peeking from behind a rock-wall off to the left. And it's a wow.

Each of the four seated statues of Ramses II is exquisite - incredibly preserved, except the second one from left, whose head fell off in an earthquake (date of quake not quite clear - some sources said shortly after it was built; others say 2,000 years ago, which would have been 1,200 years after it was built). The face was crushed, and they just left the head and torso on the ground. When the temple was moved to save it from the rising water of Lake Nasser, they left the damaged statue just as it was. How cool is that? (And can you even believe they moved the entire thing by cutting it into 20-ton blocks and painstakingly reconstructing it?)
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3a0a3784#h3a0a3784

The statues are bigger than they seem - 65 feet tall (about 5 stories). From a distance - far enough away to get the whole facade in a picture - they don't look all that big. But up close, looking up at one of them, whoa. (I thought it was pretty narcissistic that all four statues are of him. I mean, come on, Ramses. I guess when you're a pharaoh, no one says anything.)
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h324eda66#h36d61a65

The doorway in the middle is really tall - maybe 20 feet or more. A guy was standing there holding the key - a HUGE key - that unlocks the door. Yes, we got a picture.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h324eda66#h3a7ea603

The inside brings still more oohs and ahhs. The doorway opens to a humongous hallway, with large statues on either side. Much of the paint remains on the ceiling. The walls are richly carved with figures and hieroglyphics, and there are several chambers off to the side with more carvings. In the far back is an inner sanctuary with statues of four gods (deities representing Ramses II). What's really cool is that twice a year, on Ramses' birthday and coronation day - in February and October - the morning sun shines down the hallway onto those statues. Interestingly (to me), the October date was originally the 21st (my birthday), but when they moved the temple, it's now a day later, Oct. 22. The days supposedly coincide with Ramses' birthday and coronation.
No pictures were allowed inside, but this view from the entrance gives a sense of it;
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h324eda66#h27f1e85d

But wait, that's not all. Besides the main temple with the four big Ramses, there's another temple dedicated to his queen, Nefertari. It, too, is lovely - and unusual in that the statue of the queen is as big as that of the king (I think he was crazy about her).
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h20e5a0f7#h20e5a0f7

Both temples face the lake. The setting is absolutely stunning.

We had a couple hours at the site and enjoyed every minute. Abraheem had a photographer take a group picture - I bought one - a 5 x 7 with about 10 postcards for $10.

It was such a great day. The sun was warm. The air was clear. The temples were gorgeous. Although there were quite a few people, it didn't seem terribly crowded. And on the way back to the bus, we had the path almost to ourselves. It was a really nice mother-daughter time. I took a few pictures of Julie with the lake in the background. I also snapped one of my favorite pictures of the trip of some Egyptian women walking along the lake.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3586bc75#h3586bc75

Men continued to be dumb-struck by Julie. One looked at her and said in an awed whisper: "Wow." It was the same reaction we had to the temples.
One of the guards asked if I'd take his picture with her.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3586bc75#h2727dfa9

Unfortunately, once we boarded the plane, they discovered a mechanical problem that forced us to get back off the plane and wait in the airport for about 3 hours. Once again, our free time was foiled by transportation problems! Oh well, Abu Simbel was well worth it. Don't miss it!

Next up: dinner at a local restaurant and an evening of sheesha smoking...

Leslie - yes, it was row, row, row your boat that the boy sang. And now that you mention it, I do remember seeing those oars that were like two-by-fours. You're right - it was kind of weird.

Hi Karen - I agree that Abu Simbel is just a wow. As I wrote in my report I was shocked that people in my group intentionallly missed seeing it. One college age girl travelling with her grandmother did so she wouldn't have to get up way before the crack of dawn. Instead she spent the day reading by the pool on our ship!

Susan

jerseysusan - i can't believe people treat that as an "optional" tour - it was certainly a highlight for us!
Wow, laying by a pool vs. getting up close & personal with Ramses II's temple? Not a difficult decision!

One of the things I loved is that the outside alone is a wow and worth the trip. But then there's this magical - and for me, totally unexpected - inner sanctum. Everyone talked in subdued voices when we were there. It kind of demanded reverence. I knew there was an inside (the door is pretty obvious), but I had no idea it was so spectacular. Yes, I sure am glad we didn't decide to stay by the pool. Good grief! I can't imagine missing it.

It was amazing inside - the colors of the paintings on the wall still so vibrant after 1000s of years. I know what you mean about the magical feeling, too.

Hi Althom,

Coming late to this party but I echo everyone else's comments . . . what a fantastic report! Brings me back to our visit there couple of years back. It was a fast trip for us so we only saw Cairo and Luxor with the intention of returning! I posted a mini-trip report here as well.

Also, love your pics! May I ask what kind of camera did you use for your shots? I've been using a Canon SD950 point-n-shoot but thinking of graduating to the SLRs.

One more thing - great detail! I share that pinch-me-am-I-really-here wonder and excitement you experienced visiting the pyramids and the Egyptian Museum. Your interaction with the locals are also those special moments you don't forget.

I am looking forward to your Luxor experience.

Pardon my question re camera.

I just went to see your remaining pics and it says what type of camera you used!

Aswan (continued)

After Abu Simbel, visited a perfume factory for another of our obligatory shopping stops. It was kind of fun actually, with a short overview of different kinds of scents and some funny moments involving our tour colleagues - some of whom got selected as "models" for different scents. Here's one of our favorite couples, Bill and Joan, who were good-natured about being put on the spot. http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3d443d7a#h3d443d7a (Check out the next two also for portraits of some of the women working there.) As usual, one of the men wanted his picture taken with Julie.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3d443d7a#h3334ffe3

We went out for dinner at a local restaurant, where we had beef kebobs and lamb, plus the usual pita bread and hummus and rice.

Then we walked to the busy market for some tea and sheesha smoking with the locals. A small tea shop set up small tables and chairs for all 17 of us, and mint tea and several water pipes soon appeared.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3d443d7a#h306caaa2

I tried smoking once in high school and, after much coughing and choking, decided that was enough. No way was I leaving Egypt, though, without giving "sheesha" (commonly known elsewhere as hookah) a try.

In fact, our whole group tried it. Everyone got a short straw, so we'd each have our own mouthpiece and could share the pipes. An attendant put a few lumps of charcoal on top of each pipe and lit them to get things going.

The tobacco was apple-flavored and very mild. I coughed a little, but it was really pretty easy. As you can see from this series (start with this one and click on the next 5, right thumbnails), I quickly got into the swing of things...
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3d443d7a#h2b95026e

Julie worked on blowing smoke rings - she actually made a few. (She'd done it before in Berkeley and also the previous night with the younger members of our group.) Julie also got out her bubbles (Julie is never without bubbles - they're kind of her trademark and she always brings some little bottles along on vacation and gives them away to kids). She'd inhale the smoke and blow out through the bubble wand, creating smoke-filled bubbles. It was really cool. We got a picture with her camera - I'll try to get it posted.

By this time, everyone knew each other pretty well and it was really a fun evening of laughing (and coughing) together.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h36ab06ac#h36ab06ac

The next morning we checked out of the hotel and onto our cruise boat, the MS Emilio. Considering the reasonable cost of the Gap tour, the boat was top-notch. The rooms were spacious and the beds comfortable. The bathroom even had a small tub. Everything was very clean - and we got towel art every day. Can't beat that.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/h5e891cd#h5e891cd

We headed out immediately for the Philae Temple, which we really enjoyed (we weren't yet "templed out").
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3875a9ec#h2f85de7e
(and the next few)

Next stops were the Aswan Dam and the Unfinished Obelisk, both of which were yawners and not worth the time, in my book.

After lunch, we had free time (food was pretty good throughout the cruise - buffet style and lots of choices). I joined several other women for an outing to the Nubian Museum (we caught a taxi), while Julie stayed on the boat to nap and hang out with the young crowd. I wouldn't rate the museum as a "must-see," but we all enjoyed it.
Here are a few shots: http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h32f03d79#h32f03d79

That evening we had a city tour by horse carriage. It was really fun. Julie and I split up and we both got to sit up on top (at least part of the time) with the carriage driver, while a couple others sat "inside" behind us. We saw a mosque and a Coptic church, but the best part was the drive through a local Aswan neighborhood. For a good sense of it, start here and click the next 9 (right thumbnails): http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3612e6e9#h3612e6e9

In the middle of the ride, we stopped for some free time at the market. Abraheem helped Julie and some others buy sheesha pipes
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p136772151/h3612e6e9#h33c7072a

Then we bought some spices, enjoyed a smoke inside a small tea shop with Abraheem and one of the young women in our group, and sprinted through the market (we were almost late) to catch up with the rest of our group for the carriage ride back to the boat, where dinner was waiting.

We found the vendors in Aswan to be exceptionally aggressive - calling out, trying to get us to stop, following us, shoving merchandise in front of us, and of course, leering at Julie.

All-in-all it was another great - and very busy - day.

Next up - we sail for Luxor.

bkk - thanks for your comments! My cameras are both the point-and-shoot variety, although the Sony is a "super-zoom" with a 10x optical zoom. I like the zoom, but the little Canon takes great shots. I take about three times as many as I post, so I can afford to pick out just the ones that turn out well! Plus I do a little editing, not a whole lot, using iPhoto.
I'll go check out your mini report.

On the Nile

Our boat left late that same night. We had an early morning visit to Kom Ombo, which Julie decided to skip so she could sleep in. (At least she didn't miss Abu Simbel! By this time, we'd seen quite a few temples and she wanted to relax.) Kom Ombo was pretty cool - it looks a little like the Parthenon, or well, I guess it's the other way around since Kom Ombo is so much older.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/hefc7c12#hefc7c12

As I was walking back to the boat (by myself), a couple of guards greeted me at the exit. One asked where I was from, and when I said America, he wanted to know if I'd voted for Obama. I told him yes and got a smile and a thumbs up sign. He then said, "It's a little early to tell, but we think there's hope."

Then it was back to the boat for some cruising time. Although we spent three nights on the boat, this was the only day we were actually cruising. I enjoyed watching the shore go by, but one day was enough for me - I'm not very good at relaxing! Some scenes along the way (this one and five or six more, right thumbnail):
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/hefc7c12#h8d219b6

After lunch, we stopped at the Temple of Edfu. It was hot there, the hottest of the trip. I enjoyed the statue of the god Horus, a bird creature (I bought a necklace of him). One of the local guides directed us to the Nilometer, down a little staircase and back into a dark tunnel. We weren't so sure whether to follow him, but decided to go for it - Julie got too close and stepped in the water. Here's a shot of the front of the temple, followed by Julie with Horus.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/hefc7c12#h9bce5d6

That afternoon we had tea up on the top deck of the boat and spent the rest of the day just hanging out with the group. It was a nice, laid-back day.

I'll post more later. Next up: the Valley of the Kings - another wow.

I was surprised no one chimed in with comments about their own sheesha smoking! Did anyone else try it? What'd you think?

Hi Karen - as always I'm loving your report. As you say it's great to see things from someone else's eyes. I agree about the vendors in the market in Aswan. I know that I would have spent more if they would have left me alone, although I did buy spices. I didn't try sheesha. Maybe I should have just to say I did.
Susan

Karen - I think I wrote earlier in this thread when I first looked at your pictures -- I did try it and not being a smoker it wasn't anything I'd need to do again but it was fun. Our guide said, "Leslie, you look like you're playing a musical instrument" so apparently I do need practice! No smoke rings from me! The funniest part was how freaked out my mom was - she really thought it was pot or hash or something we were smoking and she definitely didn't try it! Also it skeeved her out that we were sharing the same pipe- she didn't see that we all had our own plastic mouthpieces. It was a nice experience to sit outside the cafe and smoke and people-watch.

Our trip to Egypt is next month and your report is informative, exciting and entertaining!!
What wonderful memories to share with your daughter!
Thank you for posting!!

Leslie - I thought I had a picture that shows those weird (2x4) oars you mentioned. You can see them really well in this shot:

http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/h1e3b4510#h109e6bf5

I've been lazy the last couple of days. I'll try to resume tomorrow night. Idol's on tonight.
(and Lost - but I'll just have to watch it on my computer later)

Yes, exactly! When I asked our guide about them he seemed a little offended. And I did try to word it so it wouldn't sound like some superior Westerner being critical - just curious! I guess it's cheaper than buying real oars.

Ok, we're coming down to the wire, with some blockbusters still ahead...

Luxor and the Valley of the Kings

Our departure for the West Bank was at 8:30 sharp - late from what I’d read in guidebooks, but just fine with my “any time before noon is an ungodly hour” daughter. It turned out to be the hottest day of the trip, although not unbearable - in the high 80s/low 90s F - and with a beautiful blue sky. (Ra, the sun god, must have been smiling on us.)

I was expecting a ferry ride across the Nile, but instead we drove south (I think), crossed a bridge, and, poof, left the city behind. The West Bank is a fertile area much like we’d seen on the train trip from Cairo - with huge fields of sugar cane and other crops being taken care of basically the same today as centuries ago. It was amazing how abruptly the fertile area ended: it’s green over here; it’s brown over there. Like someone drew a line in the sand. Literally.

We headed straight for the Valley of the Kings, and the bus dropped us off at the entrance to the valley in a large paved area. Trams left every few minutes for the one- to two-mile ride up to the tombs. http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/h11cbbd9#h11cbbd9
There’s a big ticket office, tons of tourists, postcard hawkers, and tombs on both sides of the road marked with a sign giving the tomb number and name of the king.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/h11cbbd9#h795b94

The entry ticket, which was included as part of the Gap tour, provided access to three tombs. We picked Ramses 4, 7, and 9, plus we paid an extra 50 pounds each for Ramses VI. One of the women in our group did Tut’s tomb, which was also extra (I THINK 100 pounds, but don’t remember for sure). Abraheem told us there wasn’t much to see, except for Tut's mummy, because most of the treasures are in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. (Guides, by the way, can’t go into the tombs, so Abraheem gave us an overview and turned us loose to explore on our own.)

There’s no way I can adequately describe what we saw. The outside reveals no clue as to what’s inside (which, I guess, was the idea). You walk from the road on a wide gravel path to a gated entry that leads right into the mountain.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/h11cbbd9#hc5b4ed2

You present your ticket to the traditionally dressed guard, who punches it, and suddenly you’re walking down a ramp with detailed hieroglyphs carved into the walls on either side - and painted with vibrant colors. It’s unbelievable. In Ramses IX, the ramp ends in a large chamber with murals/carvings all over the walls and ceiling. It was truly jaw-dropping. Julie and I happened to be lucky enough to have a few minutes almost completely alone (just one other person). We stood silently, reverently, and just stared. To think such art survived - in total darkness - for thousands of years -unknown to the world at large... it’s mind-boggling. One of THE highlights of the trip.

No pictures were allowed inside, but here’s a photo from the web of the Ramses IX corridor: http://www.narmer.pl/kv/ima/kv06_01.jpg

And this link is really long, but it provides a good variety of shots:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.delange.org/ValleyKings/vk7_2.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.delange.org/ValleyKings/EP16.htm&usg=__l72N7zQ7dIkD31nZYZ-o7REeTAE=&h=224&w=298&sz=22&hl=en&start=37&um=1&tbnid=wgrgbcppze4k4M:&tbnh=87&tbnw=116&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dtomb%2Bof%2Bramses%2BIX%26ndsp%3D20%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26rls%3Den-us%26sa%3DN%26start%3D20%26um%3D1

I thought some of the workers/locals made for good photo ops (this one and the next two):
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/h11cbbd9#h58fdde5

We could have used a little more time (one of the downsides of being with a tour group). Next up was Hatshupset’s Temple a few miles up the road. The setting, with the temple appearing to come right out of the mountain, is fantastic. There’s still paint on some of the carvings - even though they’re outside. Pretty unbelievable. Some photos (see this one and the next six):
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/h11cbbd9#h14796a53

Our last stops on the West Bank were at the Colossi of Memnon (pretty cool - and worth a quick look)
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/h11cbbd9#h16727bdd
and our final obligatory shopping stop/demo - at an alabaster factory. We escaped virtually unscathed (bought just one small pyramid) and headed back to the boat for lunch.

I think I’ll stop here and finish Luxor, as Ryan says on American Idol, after the break (maybe tomorrow)...

Oops, typo: "In Ramses IX, the ramp ends in a large chamber..."

I meant Ramses VI (6).

http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/ramessesvit.htm

Hi Karen - I agree the tombs were fantastically beautiful. When you try to imagine what it was like to dig out and paint them, well it's just amazing. You described the experience very well, again loved the details.

Susan

You know what amazed us about the Valley of the Kings and Queens maybe as much as the tombs themselves? It's the fact that they were undiscovered for some many many years, and then the discovery process. I just can't imagine what it was like to uncover one, and then discover there was another and another and another. Just phenomenal.

And the discoveries continue! Mind-boggling to think of what else is yet to be uncovered.

Ok, if anybody's still out there, let's put this puppy to bed!

Luxor, continued

After the West Bank sites, we headed back to the boat, and several of us set off for the Luxor Museum. Although much smaller than the Egyptian Museum in Cairo, it is well worth the time. The exhibits are beautifully displayed, most with English captions. Included among the treasures are exquisite statues, two mummies, a chariot, King Tut's bow and arrows and sandals, some jewelry, and every-day artifacts from tombs (beds, chair, pottery, baskets). It's really cool. Don't miss it!

I had read that no photos were allowed but the guards might let you take pictures for some baksheesh. In fact, they actually tried drumming up some business, offering quietly to let you take pictures. I decided to pass. It just felt uncomfortable to me.

That evening there was dancing on the boat - first a whirling dervish
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/hba6b7c#hba6b7c
followed by a belly-dancer, whom I expected to be thin, but wasn't. She put on a show then started picking people from the audience to come up and give it a try. Jessica, our 20-year-old Australian friend, was selected and gave it a go. Then the dancer headed straight for Julie (I think Abraheem was pointing to her) and pulled her to the stage. Well, I knew she wouldn't be shy and sure enough... (this one and three more clicks on the right thumbnail) http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/hba6b7c#h1cf175b3
(Jessica's picture is just before the ones of Julie.) We all got a real kick out of it - and those in my age group were glad we weren't selected!

The next morning we were up, up, and away in a beautiful balloon, literally. It was an extra $80 per person for the hot air balloon trip, and only 4 of us went. The others had either been before or didn't want to spend the money. It was SOOOO worth it!

The company picked us up at 0-dark-30 (I forget the exact time, but early). We drove to the Nile where boats waited to take us across - but not before they gave us tea and breakfast (packaged croissants). Over on the West Bank, about 30 balloons spread out across the valley were being inflated in the pre-dawn light.

We were assigned to a small balloon with four other passengers. We got landing instructions (crouch down, hold onto the rope inside, and brace your back against the basket) and then climbed up a step ladder and jumped inside. The captain asked if this was our first time in a balloon. We all nodded, and he said, "Me too." Haha.

The take-off was so smooth and slow and quiet as to be almost imperceptible. Once aloft, maybe 20 feet in the air, we began dropping. The pilot said it was sugar cane right below us, and as we all shouted "up, up," the basket brushed the top of the stalks before rising quickly. We realized he'd done it on purpose. Wow.

The trip was gorgeous. We saw the Colossi of Memnon, Hatshupset's temple, the Nile in the distance, lots of activity in the villages below, and the other balloons all around us. I was struck by the dramatic demarcation between irrigated land and desert - that line in the sand I alluded to earlier. We were one of the last balloons to take off, but eventually we rose so high that our pilot announced we were the highest balloon in the air. Julie celebrated by blowing bubbles, which everyone seemed to enjoy (you can see them in some of my pics).

I could go on an on (ok, maybe I already have!), but suffice it to say, we liked the balloon ride a lot. I was a little nervous about the landing because of my shoulder problems, but it was fine. We landed pretty softly, in the desert, and were dragged only a few feet. The "ground crew" hustled to deflate the balloon, then we were given t-shirts and certificates to commemorate the event. Here are some pictures (just keep right-clicking as long as you can stand it - I think I posted 30-some shots):
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/hba6b7c#h18de4831

I wanted to call your attention to this one of Julie getting ready to board because it gives a good sense of how the men reacted to Julie, as I've mentioned before. Note the look on the guy's face: http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/hba6b7c#h7c41c43 I swear that's how they all looked.

I thought sure I'd finish tonight, but as usual, I've written more than I intended. Hope some of you are still hanging in there with me! More later.

Hanging in and following !!!

Hi Debbie

Joanne

I've been following your trip report the whole time -- love all the details, and the links to the specific photos are great.

Well I am following also!


I am sure many others are too, without making a comment.

But I thought it was time to let you know that I have enjoyed all your reports. Luxor looks great from the hot air balloon.

Great report!!!!! Thanks for all the detail! love it!

Still riveted! And loving the memories you evoke.

HI Karen - still loving your report. Not going on the balloon
ride in Egypt was my biggest regret. I'm glad you had such a great time.

Susan

Yes, we're all still here. Been checking fodors every day for a new chapter! Julie certainly was a hit! Did the attention ever make her uncomfortable? Sounds like she's not shy so I guess it was not a bother.
The balloon pictures are magnificent. I wish that had been an option on our tour - really looks like a breath-taking experience.

When I go back, inshallah....

Yay! Thanks for the feedback. I'll work on it some more tomorrow. We're coming close to the end.
(I love re-living my trips through my trip reports!)

I am thoroughly enjoying your trip report and all the excellent photos as well.

Love your report especially because we're hopefully thinking of doing Egypt next year. I remember reading your Thailand report a while ago before our trip there... Very entertaining...

Loved the 'getting into the balloon' picture, with the guy drooling.

Thanks, everyone. I really appreciate the comments.

Regarding Julie, at first, I think she was really flattered - she couldn't believe it either. It was like she was wearing an aphrodisiac. It got to be so much, so intense, that she got uncomfortable and wanted to wear long sleeves and high collars. Then she got used to it and wasn't hesitant to let them know if she didn't want quite so much attention.

A worker on the boat (bartender up on the sky deck, whom she saw every evening on the cruise) wanted her to meet his parents. He hinted at marriage, and when Julie said that Americans usually get to know each other before discussing marriage, his face fell... (as if "oh, you mean i'd have to get to know you?")

Sharon - you remember my thailand report? Cool! That was awhile ago! I did a Peru one since then.

Next up: Karnak, Luxor Temple, bargaining for another sheesha pipe, and last day in Cairo.

althom, I am loving this report. Keep it coming! Thanks for being so detailed and candid.

Luxor - continued

After the balloon ride, they took us back to the boat, where I joined some of our tour-mates for breakfast and Julie went back to bed for a nap. We checked out of the boat later that morning and transferred to a hotel in a more central location (our boat was a ways from the main part of town). The Mercure was on the main drag right across from the Nile. The lobby and pool area were really nice, but our room was a little tired. It was ok, but nothing great.

For lunch, Julie and I ventured out to a restaurant Abraheem recommended, Al Amoun, within easy walking distance of the hotel, through a small, two-story market (sort of an Egyptian version of a shopping mall). Our Australian family was already there, so we joined them, and all agreed the restaurant was a gem. It was a simple place that looked a little like a coffee shop, neat and tidy. The food was delicious and cheap.

After lunch we went on a city tour by carriage. Here's a shot I really like of the back of Julie's head (in her big hat) and our carriage driver. (See the next one also for a shot of the carriages.) http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/h190b0229#h19981e21

The highlight of the afternoon was Karnak - another wow. By this time, I thought I was templed out, but no. Karnak is another blockbuster! It's huge - city-sized - a whole complex of temples and statues and columns galore. You walk through a long double row of sphinxes (is that the plural?) before passing through the large, by now familiar, pylons that marked the entrance. Abraheem told us the row of sphinxes at one time lined the road all the way to Luxor temple (a mile or more).
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/h190b0229#heba27ba

Inside, Abraheem guided us around for awhile and then set us free to explore on our own. I got a kick out of a group of young tourists, presumably Egyptian, taking as many pictures as we were. I horned in on this photo op... http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/h190b0229#ha84dc4a

Perhaps the most stunning spot inside Karnak is the complex of columns. Rows and rows of them. HUGE columns. They made me feel tiny, like a mouse. This doesn't quite do it justice, but gives a sense of it: http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/h190b0229#h16621eb9
I forget the exact number, but there are over 100 of them.

Toward the back of the complex is a statue of a large scarab, and the story goes if you walk around the scarab seven times you'll find true love. Who knows... but of course I gave it a try, along with everyone else. http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/h190b0229#hf37113c

In another spot, I found myself knee-high to the remains of a what appears to be the statue of a warrior.
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/h190b0229#hbbaf677

We enjoyed Karnak immensely. Don't miss it, even if you think you've already seen enough temples!

As we exited, we heard Abraheem's whistle off in the distance and hurried to catch up. Then it was back to the carriages for an interesting ride through a local neighborhood and a stop at Luxor temple. It wasn't as cool as Karnak, but was worth an hour.

That evening we went back to Karnak for the sound and light show. We enjoyed it, but at $30 each, thought it was a bit pricey. I don't regret going, but one sound and light show was enough. It was a little hokey. What was VERY cool, however, was standing among all those pillars at night with the lights on them. Oh yeah.

And that does it for tonight. Next up: last chapter, morning in Luxor and final afternoon in Cairo.

Despite perhaps being hotter than I've ever been in my life, Karnak Temple was absolutely the highlight of our trip last summer, temple-wise! Really phenomenal.

Hi Karen -one thing that stands out in my mind, riding around Luxor in a carriage, was how easily the driver's son jumped off his seat into the streets. It certainly made me nervous but didn't faze the driver.

I agree with you that Karnak was fantastic. We ended up with a wonderful view of it as a guard encouraged us to climb up a hill in the back out of the goodness of his heart.

Susan

Susan - I wish we had know about the hill in the back. That would have been great.
And regarding the carriages, it made a little nervous riding up there with the driver! It was high and when we got to going fast, it wasn't all that stable. I was trying to hold on tight, but with my shoulder problems, it was hard!

Thanks for letting us know the price of the balloon rides. We paid $250. in Cappadocia in 2006 (It was for my60th birthday) I wasn't going to do a balloon in Egypt next year but that price is very reasonable. also-good to know about the dervishes-we did not get to see them in Turkey so I'll make sure to see in Egypt. Thanks for the report & the pictures-dreaming & planning for our trip in 2010-Chris

Wow, $250 in Cappadocia? Turkey's on my "list" and I definitely wanted to do a balloon ride there, but I had no idea it was so expensive. I'm really glad we did it in Egypt!

More later.

Final day - morning in Luxor, afternoon in Cairo

We were supposed to leave early that final morning for Cairo and were hoping to visit Saqqara and the Bent Pyramid that afternoon, but it was not to be. Once again, Egypt's transportation system foiled our plans, as our flight was delayed till around noon.

Julie had decided she just had to have another (better) sheesha pipe, so she saw the delay as an opportunity for some shopping in the small and "relatively" hassle-free market near our hotel. She was a woman on a mission.

We scoped out the shops, eyeing the sheesha pipes on display. Unfortunately, there's no escaping some amount of hassle, even at the most low-key markets. The instant the shopkeepers see you glance at something on display, they're on you, trying to pull you in. We stopped briefly at one shop, but Julie didn't see quite the right pipe. A few doors down, she saw it - just the one she wanted.

She had asked me to let her do the bargaining herself - and a good thing, too - I'm not good at stuff like that. She was amazing. She was very friendly and calm throughout (and it didn't hurt that he clearly liked her, just like every other man in Egypt). She told him she wanted that one - although she made him change some of the pieces that went with it - the top and the hose.

Meanwhile, stools appeared for us to sit on during the negotiations. He got the pipe all assembled and lit it and he and Julie started smoking - passing it back and forth (yes, they just shared the same mouthpiece, hm).

She asked him how much. He quoted a price that we knew to be too high. She countered with a low offer, but more in the ballpark. He laughed and said, no, no, this was a GOOD one, not a cheap, tourist one. It was really for smoking, not just looking at. If she wanted a cheaper one, he could show her a different one.

She held her ground but in a very calm, unhurried, but firm manner. She upped her offer a bit, he lowered his. Then he seemed firm, but she still thought it was too much. There was a little chit-chat. She told him we were leaving for Cairo in an hour and that 140LE (or something like that - I've forgotten exactly, but it was less than $30) was all she had left (which was true - although I had more on me). They went back and forth a little bit, but in a friendly calm way, and finally he said, ok, she could have it for that. Then it was all smiles and handshakes and warm wishes.

We spent at least a half hour buying that thing. And it was really fun - one of our more memorable experiences. I think she got a pretty fair deal. I got some delightful photos (start with this one and then click through the five more, upper right thumbnail) -
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275106351/h17e82f16#h17e82f16

We then headed for the airport and our flight back to Cairo, arriving around 4:00. The bus dropped us off for a couple hours in the Khan el Khalili bazaar - back where we'd started almost two weeks before. It was like coming home, only with 15 new friends! We strolled, just soaking up the atmosphere, and Julie and our Australian mates bought some tobacco for their pipes (banana, vanilla, strawberry, apple, and mango). We topped off the visit with a stop at Fishawy's for tea and one final sheesha smoke.

That evening the group went to a small restaurant within walking distance of our hotel, reminisced about our time together, and said our goodbyes. (The Australian dad had pigeon for dinner. I didn't try it, but his daughter said if was "quite nice.")

The next morning we were up early for the transfer (arranged by Gap - I think it was $40) to the airport for our uneventful flight home.

All in all it was a truly wonderful trip. Hope you've enjoyed it with me as I've relived the experiences. I have one more installment to go: my top 10 lists - sights, experiences, and tips. Later...

Hi Karen - of course I loved reading your report, but I told you that so many times! I too was delayed flying back to Cairo from Luxor, but my wait was spent in the airport. I'm glad you got back to the Khan, I would have been happy to spend more time there.

Looking foward to your last installment.

Susan

Final thoughts and top 10 lists:

Egypt was an amazing and exotic destination, with a fascinating culture and a cornucopia of ancient treasures.

In remembering the trip, many impressions, and many words, come to mind. Before I went, if someone said Egypt and asked me to play "word association," I'd have responded: pyramids, camels, desert, Nile, King Tut, mummies, papyrus, hieroglyphs, Mubarak, and Muslim. And then I'd have drawn a blank because that pretty well summed up my knowledge.

Now that I've been there, if someone said Egypt, I might say those same words but would
add: traffic-jams, burkas, kosherie, sheesha, Ramses, Horus, Nefertari, Karnak, pylon, Nubian, Hatshepsut, cell phones, smiles, leers, mosques, double-crown, scarab, hot-air balloons, catacombs, bargaining, tea, felucca, cartouche -- and I could go on and on. And each word evokes rich and colorful memories. We had a wonderful time!

Herewith are my lists:

Top 10 sights:
1. Abu Simbel - it's worth the trouble to get there. Don't miss it.
2. Valley of the Kings - another wow. The paint inside the tombs is unbelievable.
3. Karnak - like a whole city of temple ruins.
4. Giza pyramids/sphinx - no explanation necessary. I think I grinned almost the whole time we were there. They look just like they look (in pictures), but you gotta see 'em.
5. Egyptian Museum - even if you're not a museum person, this is a must-see. Don't miss the mummies and King Tut's riches. Go with a guide, and try to get some time on your own as well.
6. Alexandria's catacombs - I loved them.
7. tie: Temple of Philae and Temple of Edfu (loved the Horus statue)
8. Luxor Museum - beautiful statues, not crowded. A delightful museum. Everything was displayed gorgeously.
9. Alexandria bibliotheca (library)
10. The Citadel

Honorable mention: Hatshepsut's Temple, Nubian Museum, Kom Ombo, Coptic Cairo
Over-rated (give 'em a miss): Unfinished Obelisk, Aswan Dam, Pompey's Pillar

Top experiences:
1. Hot air balloon ride
2. Camel ride at the pyramids
3. Sunset felucca cruise on the Nile
4. 3-night Nile cruise
5. Sheesha smoking with newfound friends
6. Bargaining for Julie's sheesha pipe
7. Overnight train ride to Aswan (interesting experience - glad we did it)
8. Tour by the monk at Wadi Natrum
9. Horse carriage tours in Aswan and Luxor
10. Walking in the shopping district in Alexandria at night and strolling the Khan el Khalili bazaar in Cairo

Top tips:
1. Carry 1LE notes to pay bathroom attendants. I always carried tissues with me in case there was no toilet paper, but it never happened. The bathrooms at tourist spots were surprisingly clean - but you usually have to pay, so be prepared.
2. When crossing the street in cities, try to stick with a local. There are no clear rules (that we could figure out), and it can be really scary!
3. If you don't want to buy anything, don't even look at the vendors you pass. Just keep going. If you express any interest, it's tough getting rid of them. It's more intense than anywhere I've ever been.
4. Bargain hard, but with good humor. Don't rush the process.
5. If you want to take someone's picture, ask first. Sometimes they'll expect baksheesh, especially guards in traditional dress at the various tourist attractions. If someone asks to take your picture, do it! I love it that about 20 Egyptian adolescent girls have my picture in their cell phone.
6. Use sunscreen every day, and don't forget your sunglasses and a hat.
8 ATMs are commonplace (there's one right at the airport) and easy to use. You don't need traveler's checks. Many places, but not all, take US dollars.
9. Tips (baksheesh) are expected for almost everything. Have small bills/change available.
10. Watch what you eat. Several in our group got sick. We followed the standard rule for developing countries: cook it, peel it, or avoid it. That meant no salads (no lettuce/tomato) and also only bottled water - even for brushing our teeth. Others may have different views, but this worked for us and was only a very minor inconvenience.
and (more than 10)...
11. Be prepared for unexpected challenges. Transportation can be agonizingly slow.
12. Courtesy and smiles are universal. Interaction with locals can be your fondest memories. Learn to say at least hello and thank-you in Arabic.

Biggest surprises:
1. It's intense. We've traveled extensively, but never experienced the number of stares we received in Egypt. The men leer.
2. The women are surprisingly approachable - as soon as you smile.
3. Everyone - men and women alike - were as interested in us as we were in them. We were like celebrities. I don't know if it was the blonde hair/pale skin or the fact that Julie and I naturally meet people's eyes and smile or what. But we were a hit.
4. I was expecting anti-American sentiment. We saw none. People were generally warm and welcoming. Obama is extremely popular.
5. It wasn't as hot as I expected - of course, it was February.
6. It felt really safe. Intense, yes. But dangerous, no. Guards were everywhere, and I never once felt threatened. Annoyed by the pushy vendors, but never threatened.
7. Although I knew it was a male-dominated society, the degree of it surprised me. I was expecting a bit more Westernized dress. Not among women. Nearly all of the women at least cover their heads. Rarely do you see a woman alone on the street. Usually women are in a group with other women or with their families.
8. Julie and I have always traveled independently, but we really enjoyed the tour group. Having all the logistics taken care of was nice, but even more, we loved being with the other people. We had a great group (and not too big). I'd give Gap a 9 out of 10. My only complaints: hotels could have been better located (and I prefer small and quaint rather than tour-group type hotels); I could have done without the shopping stops; and there were times I'd have liked more/less time than we were given as a group. Minor complaints.
9. Clean bathrooms (as already mentioned).
10. Traffic in Cairo is unbelievable - ranks up there with Bangkok. I wasn't expecting that.

And that wraps it up! If you've already been to Egypt, I hope you've enjoyed my report. And if you haven't been... what are you waiting for? I guarantee, Egypt won't disappoint.

Thanks for hanging in there with me!
Next trip... Paris/Amsterdam in September with my sister (and hopefully a friend and maybe Julie)...
Karen

Karen - excellent summation. I'm sure your report will be a valuable wealth of info and advise for future visitors to Egypt. As someone who has been to Egypt I thoroughly enjoyed reading each installation. Thanks again.

Susan

althom1122 - what a great summary. What a great trip. I have truly enjoyed following you and Julie on your travels through this land of contrasts. Thank you for sharing. We are already looking forward to your impressions of Paris and Amsterdam.

tC

Karen, that was a really excellent report. Loved the details! Between you and teacherC, this makes us want to return to Egypt soon. Shukran.

I love the summary. It's really helpful to those of us who have never been there.

Thank you Karen for letting me relive Egypt through your adventures. There are so many places on my must-visit list but even so I think I need to go back to Egypt in the next year or two. It has gotten under my skin like no other place I've visited - I really do think about my time there (last year) almost daily. I'm infected!

Have fun in Paris & Amsterdam. No baksheeshing there, at least

Thanks Karen for the vast amount of information you have provided from your trip-going next month and have made many notes!

I loved the summaries at the bottom. Your report was fabulous... the words drew me in and made me envious that my trip isn't next week... I have to wait until next year. Memories to treasure for a life time it seems.

I'll be really disappointed if I don't get some "oogling" like Julie did!!!

I was surprised to see my report come back to the top! Thanks for the latest comments, dutyfree and MissGreen. I'm sure you'll have a great trip. And MissGreen, don't worry - you'll undoubtedly get some oogling! Even I got some at the age of 52.

Marking this to read later.
Samcat