Just got back from Kenya

Great news in many respects. Thanks.

Thanks for your report. What a great decision not to cancel!

I would emphasize that we flew from park to park, so we don't know what the roads were like or how those were impacted.

Yes this part deserves emphasis. But I would go to Kenya tomorrow if I could.

Thank you for a very interesting report, but is it responsible for you to conclude, based on a single visit in which you flew from park to park, that "there is no practical reason for tourists to avoid Kenya right now."

I note these comments from the February 8 US Dept of State travel advisory on Kenya (the most recent advisory they have posted). Are all of these comments impractical:

-- continuing terrorist threats, increasing incidents of violent crime, and hostile civil unrest following the disputed December election results

-- the potential for spontaneous violence remains

-- the possibility of sudden outbreaks of hostile clashes between police and demonstrators, as well as between rival groups of demonstrators

-- American citizens are urged to defer all travel to Rift Valley, Western, and Nyanza Provinces. Road travel in these western provinces of Kenya remains unsafe.
Sporadic illegal road blocks by gangs or criminal elements may make travel possible only with police or military escorted convoys. American citizens should also avoid all demonstrations, protests and large public gatherings since even demonstrations intended to be peaceful can become violent.

I am glad your trip was without incident, but I'm not sure sound advice can be based on a single trip.

No tourist has been harmed in any way.

Here are updates from the Kenya Tourism Federation that are a bit closer to reality:
http://www.katokenya.org/breaknews.asp?ID=1

Nyamera, you keep writing that, and I'm sure its true. But, it would be foolish to think that Kenya is less risky than other safari destinations. While I hope that visitors continue to remain safe, to me, at least, Kenya is a more dangerous destination than, say, Botswana or Tanzania. I am aware that tragedies happen everywhere, but to me, at least, Kenya is too risky.

And if my decision to go elsewhere deprives Kennedy or someone else of money, well, that's sad, but too bad. When a country develops an economy that is so dependent on tourist dollars and fails otherwise to substantially diversify, they better make more of an effort not to hack one another to death and set each other on fire (I know that only a very small percentage of people are the hackers and arsonists, but I don't think that small percentage is going to distinguish between a perceived enenmy and a tourist if the tourist happens to be in the wrong place at the wrong time).

I have certainly visited my share of countries that have isolated dangerous areas, but to me at least, based on what I've read, the risk in Kenya it too widespread, and I would never advise someone that there is no practical reason to visit based on a single trip. Lots of people safely visit Iraq and Afghanistan, but those two countries, for the time being, remain near the bottom of my list (as much as I'd like to visit both).

I fear that there will come a time when you will no longer be able to write that no tourists have been harmed or killed due to tribal violence in Kenya, and I'm sure not going to allow it to be me.

Michael

And while some may not give credence to the Department of State's advisories, the Kenya Tourist Board is hardly the most unbiased commentator. I know what I read in the press, and I also know that there are hundreds of safer destinations, including lots of safari destinations in Africa.

Michael, unfortunately the hackers and arsonists distinguish very well when deciding who to kill. The risk of road accidents is far, far bigger to a tourist. Backfromkenya isn’t the only Fodorite who has visited Kenya recently and even though I really can’t afford it, I’m definitely going there in June.

Of course the Kenya Tourist Board isn’t unbiased, but what lies can you find in their updates? Or, what important information for tourists can’t you find?

I wish you well.

In May/June, I'll be in French Polynesia and Easter Island (even though I really can't afford it too -- with the recent plummeting of the US stock market and, notwithstanding today's blip, I foresee more declines). While Africa is my favorite continent to visit, there are lots of other places to go, especially while there's turmoil and risk in some African countries.

Thanks.

I’m going in June/July. You’re going to some interesting places. I’ll not waste my money on any other countries until I’ve found a way to live in Kenya and then I’ll start by going to other countries in Africa, but this will probably be in my next life.

You've got lots of life left this time around Nyamera. Good luck.

Nyamera,

Everytime I go to Kenya I see THOUSANDS of expatriates who work in Kenya (coffee business, tour business, charities, web design, international schools, etc)

I think it must be VERY easy to find a job in Kenya as so many people seem to do so.

I'm sure you'll find a job in less than a week... it really can't be that difficult!!

Thanks for reporting, backfromkenya. Glad you were able to go.

I've literally just got back from a week in the Mara and had a very similar experience to backfromkenya. I have been to Kenya a number of times and genuinely did not notice any difference except a very empty game park - trip report to follow.

Phil

Philw; were there any other guests in the camps in the Mara? DO you mind telling us at which camps you stayed?

<<Everytime I go to Kenya I see THOUSANDS of expatriates who work in Kenya (coffee business, tour business, charities, web design, international schools, etc)>>

That, to me, seems a bit sad. Doesn't Kenya have a high unemployment rate, and don't they have locals who can fill many of these jobs, especially in tourism? The standard of living will not improve if they import employees to fill the most attractive positions.

Simbakubwa,
I don’t see as many expats as you do, but I do know there’re many. Have any of them told you how they got their jobs? I suppose some are rich and have invested in Kenya. Those working with charities must have had important positions in their home countries and then been sent to Kenya and the rest are volunteers that don’t get paid. I suppose I could do some short term volunteering, but I would soon run out of money. What kind of training (how many years starting from scratch) do you have to do to get a web design job? I met some French people in the Mara who were visiting their friend – a very skilled computer something – who had worked in Kenya for a year. His contract was ending and he was desperate to stay, but couldn’t find a new job. The Swedish school in Nairobi requires you to be a qualified teacher with at least 5 years experience. That would take me 9 years (I’m not young) and then I wouldn’t be sure a job would turn up.

The official unemployment rate in Kenya was some 40 % and now it’s probably higher. Highly educated Kenyans are selling fruit by the side of the road and it’s against the law to give a work permit to a foreigner for a job that a Kenyan could do. The stories I’ve found (not directly from the person involved) are a teacher who came as a tourist and was hired as some kind of public relations manager. She must have had a very charismatic personality (I don’t). I have no idea how a work permit was obtained. Then a young Swedish woman who was studying to become a designer did her thesis at a camp and got a job working with Maasai women doing beadwork. There must be Kenyan designers … Another young girl got a job at a luxury camp. I’ve read her online diary. First she worked as a seasonal guide for a package tour company. There aren’t that many Kenyans that speak Swedish and I’ve applied for that job (unsuccessfully). Then she was offered a long-term job at a camp. Though looking at her pictures, I think she’s romantically involved with a Kenyan at the camp. I’m working on becoming underweight, blond and young … When I ask Kenyans I’m either told “it’s very easy for you to get a job in Kenya” without any clues how to go about it, or they laugh at me telling me I can live in Kenya when I retire (as if I’ll ever be able to afford that).

I’ve been to Kenya four times and have wanted to stay every time. If there’s a way to find a job in less than a week that I’ve just overlooked, please tell me!

Ha! Just go to a mall called the village market on a sunday afternoon and you will see thousands of expatriates! And I don't think they are volunteers as they always have lots of money to spend.

Many are employed in business (why don't you start a business and hire some of the unemployed people)... or why don't you contact a safari camp or beach cottage and ask if they need a camp manager (they always are looking for people who are honest).

However, if you don't have any transferrable skills... or don't have any money to invest... then I guess there probably isn't much incentive for Kenya to give you a work permit.

Either way... every day hundreds of Kenyans migrate to the West... and an equal number of westerners migrate to Kenya.

Interesting perspectives. My wife works for a large international aid organization and they were just given an update by their in country staff on the situation in Kenya. They're saying that the situation there is actually much worse than we're hearing outside the country and that in some areas it's getting close to "racial cleansing".

Of course that's very different from what you saw and I'm not surprised, nor do I doubt what you're saying. Right now the tourists are not being targeted, and especially if you're flying from park to park and avoiding the roads and residential and poorer areas you're probably going to be pretty safe. But what if things go from bad to worse as they could at any time with what is brewing? What anyone who goes there needs to decide is if it's worth the risk (and they are substantial, don't kid yourself) to yourself and your family. For the American on this forum I think I can safely say that while the local embassy will try and help if things do get bad, they will probably feel that you were warned and you will be pretty low on their list of priorities.

Bob

As many countries are now doing, Kenya has over the past few years implemented some very stringent requirements for outsiders (non-Kenyans) to work in-country. Work permits aren't easily obtained. Unless the individual is requested for a position that a Kenyan cannot qualify for, those hoping to work in Kenya are out of luck.

Yes, there are many ex-pats, whom have been in-country since before these restricted regs, who have jobs that would be attractive for outsiders, but it's not easy any longer.

Those working for charities/missions/NGOs, especially, are probably being paid by their home country from where the organization originated. Likewise, for other positions if generated by a company based outside of Kenya. For positions in tourism, there should be plenty of qualified Kenyans or those who can be trained to fill such positions.

Alejandra

I stayed six nights at Royal Mara. It is a six tent camp in the Koiyaki area - we were on our own for three nights and had a Mexican couple for company on three other nights. On the day we left two more guests arivved and three were due today. From the other vehicles we saw in the area, I estimate that the bigger camps such as Kicheche had around 8 guests, Mara Safari Club around 12 and Mara Buffalo around 15. David Livingstone (an 80 room lodge) had 7 guests. A bit further South, from word of mouth, Kichwa Tembo had around 6 guests and Governors had moved evryone from main camp to IlMoran so probably had around 12.

Hope this helps.

Phil

Simbakubwa, Village Market is next to the UN complex where you find lots of extremely well paid foreigners. I was going there once, but couldn’t find the right matatu. There are quite a few expat looking people at Sarit Centre as well.

I’ve never got a job being honest and safari camps have no shortage of Kenyans that can be as honest as they feel like.

So, you don’t have a secret to tell me.

Bob,
You don’t have any new information and the risks are not “substantial”.

no tourists killed?

Two Germans killed in Kenya, Nairobi police say 28/01/2008 00:00

Two German nationals have been killed in Kenya in what Nairobi police called an armed robbery south of Mombasa.

28th January 2008

Nairobi/Berlin (dpa) - A police spokesman in Nairobi said the two victims were men, aged 51 and 54 years, who were returning with their wives after dining out.

When they entered a private property, they were surrounded by about 10 men demanding money. When the Germans resisted, a fight broke out and the two men were killed with machetes and a blunt weapon, police said

A guard and a mini-bus driver rushed to their assistance, the police spokesman said.

Police took two suspects, while searching for the other attackers. The two wives were being questioned as witnesses, but were suffering from shock.

The spokesman said the 51-year-old victim lives in Kenya.

Earlier, the German Foreign Ministry in Berlin had said it was investigating reports that two Germans had died in the wave of post-election violence sweeping Kenya.

A spokesman said the German embassy in Nairobi was trying to verify reports that a Kenya-based German businessman and a tourist were beaten to death by armed robbers.

Germany's n-tv news channel quoted Kenyan police as saying the pair was attacked at a holiday village 5 kilometres south of the coastal city of Mombasa.

The German government has been advising its nationals to avoid unnecessary travel to the east African nation, following ethnic clashes triggered by the outcome of last month's disputed presidential election.

Opposition leader Raila Odinga claims to vote that returned President Mwai Kibaki to power was rigged.

I’m getting tired … I was waiting for someone to mention that robbery in a private villa that has nothing to do with the post election violence. This kind of thing has happened before.

philw, that actually doesnt sounds as bad as that i had expected, but still it must have been very quiet. How did you like Royal mara camp?

Alejandra

I think ther camps that are open are operating at around 15% capacity but the overall percenatge probably drops to 10% when you take into account camps that have closed. At this time of year it should be over 90% occupancy.

I'll write a detailed report in the next few days but can confirm that the Royal Mara camp was very good and you can get an excellent rate at the moment (certainly if you contact them directly). I have to admit that it was a bit spooky the the first night on our own as we were the first guests for a week - after that it was fine and, ironically, this will be the best opportunity ever to visit the Mara and see cats without lots of other vehicles. On one occasion we had around 6 vehicles at a sighting but, apart from this, never more than two others. In fact we had a sighting of a cheeath with two 18 month cubs (Hari take note !), a leopard with two 3 month cubs and numerous lion sightings where we were the ONLY vehicle around. Also a wildebeest giving birth with only two other vehicles watching. Everyone has to make their own decision but I would whole heartedly recommend a visit to the Mara at this time.

Phil

Just got back today from Kenya & Tanzania. Stayed at Tortilis Camp in Amboseli...first night they had about 20 guests..second night there were 6 of us...fantastic camp, great food& driver guide....took awhile, but we finally found the idyllic scene of giraffes in front of Kilimanjaro...which cleared a few times.
Next, Joy's Camp in Shaba...both nights 6 people...exquisite camp and food...got private driver/guide...not as much wildlife, because they seemed to have moved to the Samburu side, but the ambiance and scenery were great.
Finished Kenya at Little Governor's...they had the most people in camp...over 20 and we had to share the game drive...but by far saw the most animals...cheetahs, lions and leopards! They offered a 2 for 1 balloon ride, due to the lack of tourists...so for $415 got the ride of a lifetime...actually, got 4 rides for the price of 2, because the first ride had no wind that am...and we went in the wrong direction and landed in Maasai land...after narrowly missing landing in a swamp. Next am...it was the classic flight over the Mara River, just clearing the treetops and landing just in front of a hyena burrow....followed by champagne breakfast. Lovely! When I'm over jetlag...will write more in a trip report.