Air Kenya today from London had 31 passengers. So sad.
I practically had the whole middle cabin to myself. So I slept and talked to the crew Aand two Kenyans going home to help their families relocate.
In Nairobi, there were two people in the immigation lines! I got my bags and walked outside where I saw three signs with passenger names on them. It was so shocking to see.
I arrived in Karen after two police check points.
As expected things appear calm. I wathed the NFL on the internet and the local programs on TV. It is all about the aftermath of the chaos. All the programs ask Kenyans to calm down and to be tolerant of each other and to minimise the tribal influences. In church preachers are praying for tourists to return!
The VP said on TV that is up to the Kenyans to prevent bad overseas press by not giving the press any reasons to report bad news. He did not blame the media (I agree with him); he simply said if the country remains calm then there will not be bad press so it is up the Kenyans.
Schools in many parts of the country will not reopen this Monday (many are burnt down). Teachers are preparing to deal with children who are confused and afraid.
Some leader on TV asked for an enquiry into the mass-killings. He said it appeared well-organized and pre-planned (I agree with him and hope they do find out who was behind it all). However people must still be dying - more than 750 dead now said the Red-Cross on TV tonight.
Over the next 3 months I will spend a lot of time in Kenya and starting tommorrow I will talk to many people in the tourism and humanitarian fields.
I hate to see this wonderful country being held hostage to the election situation. I hate to see Kenyans turn on each other. I hate to see Air Kenya flights from Europe with 31 passengers.
I am going to offer my support and advice where needed. But tonight I feel helpless and overwhelmed.
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Just arrived in Nairobi
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I meant Kenya Airways - not Air Kenya!
Very, very sad. No one wants this beautiful country devastated. I can't believe it.
Pls continue to post what you can.
Thank you for this post, I hope the politicians come to their senses, please continue to post.
Also, compare with my call to Kennedy today ... very sad for the same reason.
Bless the Kenyan PEOPLE,
Kristina
I am sad too, - I've hardly thought about the animals in a few weeks, even though I leave tomorrow!
At least I hope I can leave -- to complicate matters still further (for me, at least), we are expecting a major snowstorm tonight and tomorrow!
Jess
The stats on tourism from what you've seen are awful. Hopefully that will be short lived.
Please keep us updated.
Thanks.
Thankyou so much, Eben for posting this and keeping us up to date, even though it makes me sad to hear it. Three people with signs, that really hit home! Both times I have flown in there you cannot even see the people you are looking for amongst the throngs of people.
The VP has a good point there, if calm is all the media can report, then people will feel comfortable and return.
And Jess, thanks for doing your part too, you are helping the industry try to return to normal. I wish I could be going with you tomorrow.
Thank you for the updated news here.
Here I want to know the latest situation in Nairobi city. Are the spots and stores still carrying on business? Such as the Junction, Giraffe Centre, Elephant Orphanage, Carnivore, etc. in Nairobi.
Any information is deeply appreciated.
Lynda- I actually have Cancel for any Reason insurance - but decided not to use it.
Jess
Hi all
Hope can get some information as I have described above, thank you!
Before my Wilson flight to Kilimanjaro I met with friends who drove me through the city to all the tourist places and even the recent trouble spots.
Everything is open I was told and there are fewer people so the visits are more pleasant! Nairobi seemed very normal to me including a traffic jam or two.
I then had a brief meeting with owners of safari companies I do business with. If you listen to them complain one would think CNN caused the troubles, so I gave them my opposing point of view and my utter dismay of any kind of mass killings and the important role of the media to help prevent future genocides. IMO the media helped put an end to the killings. IMO lives were saved through "sensational" reporting but admittingly the tourism industry is paying the price.
IMO is now up to the people of Kenya to realize that uprisings and other disruptive events will only add to their woes. They need to find other ways to deal with the situation.
Anyway, we agreed to disagree on the media.
Right or wrong I also told him the Kenya tourist industry should take a long and serious look at their "mass tourism" model. "Packaged" tourists (charter planes and minibuses filled with visitors) cannot be relied upon in uncertain times. When the first client cancels, the charter companies get nervous and they would rather cancel the whole charter plane instead of flying it half-empty. That is the message I get on Tripadvisor - the voice of the charter safari business to Kenya.
Kenya tourism needs to look at quality vs. quantity and rethink their marketing strategies to attract a larger percentage of visitors who take their safaris seriously and who are less likely to cancel at the first sign of uncertainty. My friends nodded in agreement and I hope they will go back to their offices and begin to think "outside-the-box" in order to survive the current downturn.
Lastly, the most worrisome thing is the uncertainty in the air. Everyone tells me they are tired of this politics and just want to get back to work. Yet, no-one can say for sure there will be no more trouble in the streets. And that's where I left it for now. I return to Kenya in a couple of weeks.
Personally, I am optimistic and will NOT cancel a safari to Kenya. But it is a bit early to tell what will happen next and if the opposition will find better/more peacefull ways to get what they want.
Eben, thanks for your updates. Keep posting as often as you can!
I’m very divided in my feeling towards media. It’s important that as much as possible is known as soon as possible, but I wish the people who just get their ideas about “how they are in those countries” reinforced wouldn’t have access to the news. The news about returning tourists has been simply disgusting, as if they’d been hostages for 8 years or something. No tourist has been hurt in any way. The most “traumatic” experience has been seeing burning tires in Narok.
Here’s a website that’s trying to document what’s happening: http://www.ushahidi.com/
The “quality tourism” ideas, knowing what “quality” usually means, make me really worried. I feel like telling your safari company contacts that I’m a low-quality tourist that would never cancel a trip.
Nyamera, I agree with you regarding the "quality tourist" issue. In some quarters, that means "expensive." I don't believe that Africa should only be for the well-heeled tourist. There has to be a balance. For some, the only way they can afford to go is larger, group tours. For others such as yourself, that means truly independent travel. Most of us are not as adventurous as you!
In the situation we now have in Kenya, even the "quality tourist" is cancelling. That was also the case in Zimbabwe, when I was there shortly after their 2000 elections. There was violence then, too, and the tourist areas I was in were nearly deserted. Certainly, Zimbabwe wasn't a bastion of big group tours.
East Africa won't be for the well-heeled traveler as soon as the Chinese and former Soviet republics start arriving in bigger numbers. These will be packaged tours, much like packaged tours elsewhere.
What has happened recently to many traveling from Europe on packaged, mostly beach holidays, is quite unfortunate, much of which I believe is more the operators not being prepared "just in case." Advising travelers 72/hrs before departure whether they will or won't be boarding their flights, is irresponsible.
But packaged tours go to destinations worldwide. Think Club Med (anywhere) as well as OAT, Perillo Tours to Italy, Sandals to the Caribbean and those to Hawaii. Charters out of Canada (in winter) to areas "south" - Cuba, Dominican Republic, Panama, Colombia or in the reverse, to Europe in the summer. And, as many charters fly from Europe in winter to the US, Florida in particular.
The name of the game is volume. And, some of these locations don't necessarily have a better infrastructure than East Africa. Whether man-made crisis as in Kenya or by god in Thailand, once things quiet down the throngs will be back.
There's a destination for all kinds of travelers and budgets. For as many who can visit where they pay $1,500/person/nt, there are twice and three times as many where the cost is $150/person/nt. And, think of all those people who take cruises everywhere! Ugh!
Quality is nice, but as with price, is different for everyone. Quality is nice and will always be there for those who choose and can afford it, but I don't believe there are many destinations who will eliminate the volume travelers. Tourism is probably the largest income producer for countries everywhere.
All I said was "increase your quality offerings" so it make up a larger portion of your revenue! I did NOT say eliminate budget tours, group tours and package tours!
The majority of outfitters compete on price alone with narrow margins and they need volume to sustain their businesses. When the industry goes south, the volume decreases, the competition increases and such businesses are in trouble.
I do not want to re-enter a debate about group tours and price! I have yet to see quality group tours that consistently are cheaper than private safaris. Most group tours offer companionship, not savings. Some top-end companies offer companionship to the tune of $8000 per person more than similar private safaris!
On a group tour you are held captive to the group situation which is why so many people are canceling. If they were on private safaris many would probably be in Kenya right now and saving money in the process!
I’m just allergic to “quality tourists” after having lived in a touristy place and heard that expression used instead of “rich tourists” too many times. I don’t want any budget group tours and the group tours you hear about here on Fodor’s extreme “quality tours”, but I do want budget camps and there aren’t any. I just don’t want anyone to even breath the expression “quality tourism” to anyone in the Kenyan safari industry, but it’s already too late.
Eben,
Thanks for posting.
I appreciate your insight on the issue, especially your comment about the media coverage, whilst impacting negatively on tourism, having played a vital role in stopping or at least reducing the violence.
I'm sorry too to hear that you feel helpless and overwhelmed. I hope that you are able to find sufficient positives in the coming days, weeks, months to balance the negatives and give you reason to feel more positive again.
As you know, I'm not travelling out until August so haven't even been thinking about our trip - to be honest, even if we were due to leave this month, we'd still be going, hence haven't given a second thought to a trip so distant as August.
But it seems that perhaps people are cancelling even trips that far out, as I received confirmation of the one remaining accommodation on my itinerary that was waitlisted (I had a booking in an acceptable alternative instead). I assume that has come about because of a cancellation from somewhere else, though of course, it could simply have been a company holding rooms in a block and releasing those that they didn't fill.
I would also appreciate any further posts you would be willing to make in terms of the situation and whether you think there is realistically anything Fodorites can do to help? Should we be trying to "sell" the destination to friends/ family who haven't been or is that a step too far given first-timers often have more nerves than previous visitors?
Thanks Eben for posting right away upon your arrival and your experiences and feelings on the ground in Kenya. I value your input very much. I'm sad to hear how quickly tourism has been affected in East Africa by the riots in Kenya. Please, when you have a chance also report how Tanzania has been affected. Many people who cancelled their safaris were also going there. I understand that the trickle down to TZ is costing jobs there too. What about getting supplies into TZ? Are they dependent on getting that stuff from Kenya? These are two separate countries as we all know here on Fodors, but how closely are TZ and Kenya connected as far as tourism is concerned? Keep posting.
I know that some people that had planned to go to Kenya are now going to Tanzania (mydogspud, for one.) I wonder, as well, if there will be an overall increase or decrease for Tanzania.
Kavey,
I wouldn’t know how to make people go to Kenya. As Fodorites have $$$ and £££, a good way to help those worst hit is to make a donation through Mama Mikes, a company recommended by several trustworthy (I’m almost sure) bloggers. This company is used to send vouchers to family in Kenya, but now you can give vouchers to the Kenya Red Cross without a fee.
http://www.mamamikes.com/shop/Specials/index.cfm?CFID=43619147&CFTOKEN=92047512
... wonder, as well, if there will be an overall increase or decrease for Tanzania.
I read there was a short-term decrease in Tanzania too, since many people visit both countries on one trip and, particularly the Brits, decided to bag them both. So the people like Dr. Andrea shifting to Tz are apparently not enough to offset the people cancelling.
I just checked the Ndutu 'availability' link and they have been booked solid for mid-Jan to mid-March for the past year, yet now I see that in Feb eleven days are now showing vacancies, so clearly they got clobbered by recent cancellations there. Two days they are showing more than 5 rooms open or about 20% of the lodge. Also about half the remaining days in January are showing vacancies and these were all full as of a few weeks ago.
This is a pity because this is their busiest three months, and Tanzania is safe.
Bill
Regarding the role of the media. Which kind of media?
In my country we have public and commercial broadcasters, and while the public stations try to inform about all aspects of the crisis, most commercial stations are just repeating the sensational "news breaking" clips again and again for getting their quote.
I doubt that these commercial stations help to prevent a genocide, because they're mainly regarded as entertainment for the masses by decision makers and influential circles. However, with all their exciting news 'shows' they are clearly responsible that frightened John Smith is canceling his holiday trip to Diani Beach.
That highlights the issue that this is a regional problem, not just Kenya's. The EAC needs to be involved in the issues, as it affects all the neighboring countries. I think ex-President Mkapa of Tanzania was planning to join Annan in Kenya.
It is a regional problem. Uganda and Rwanda get their main supplies from Mombasa.
I just read an article tonight about this issue.
Tanzania Tourism suffers in Kenya's post election violence, by Adam Ihucha from Jan 15, 2008
I have good friends in TZ and they are feeling the hit. It's just so sad. I hope those rallies for the next three days throughout Kenya will indeed be peaceful as promised, but how can that be when such rallies are illegal. The string is too tight!
Here's the link:
http://www.eturbonews.com/846/tanzania-tourism-suffers-kenyas-post-election-violence
"In my country we have public and commercial broadcasters" - nyama
Same in my country. The public broadcasters are the more reliable, most respected, and less watched or listened to. Which should tell everybody what the audience-- the general public-- wants most. So you get what you want. Anybody who complains about 'the media' when they have a clear-cut choice between 'reliable & responsible' and 'popular' shouldn't be taken seriously. There are countries where such a choice is not available, but the internet does a lot to solve that inequity if you know where to look.
John
Small article in todays (1/16/08) newspaper begins with - "Kenya, Nairobi. Legislators chose an opposition member as Parliament speaker Tuesday, giving victory to foes of Kenya's president".
You think this will ease tensions?
regards - tom
Hi Tom,
I can not remember at the moment if you are in the U.S. or not, but if you are, give CNN a peek, their reporter had a bit of a pat on the back today from a tear gas canister shot at her…she’s fine, but the answer to your question is some of the tension has been eased.
I think I recall once you said you were a lawyer? If so, Nyamera passed along a really great link above www.ushahidi.com that you may want to check out. The original idea came from a young Kenyan lawyer from Eldoret, Ory Okolloh, the KenyanPundit, who rallied (put out a let us document the battle cry) to her group of friends that include other young lawyers, techies, finance guys & gals, and poets etc. to come up with that website. If you go to her blog and start reading from the time of the election voting and catch up you will discover this group of folks, mostly in Kenya but Kenyans from all over, were the only ones getting news out to the world and most importantly to families in Diaspora that could not reach their families when Kenya first blacked out the news.
About a year ago I was reading a book about Tom Mboya and stumbled upon them and have been hooked and have been following the Kenyan political scene since… who knew!
The other item of interest is, as you poke about from Ory’s blog via her links, you will find many conversations and thoughts from these young professionals from Kenya and other countries in Africa in regards to the laptop program that was chatted about a bit here. Obviously, this conversation has taken a back seat, however if you are interested it is there.
Den
Den - I am in USA, beautiful sunny southern California. And to set the record straight, please, I am not a lawyer!!! I am an engineer (mechanical), and proud of it!!!
Thanks for the other info and links.
regards - tom
Big oops on the lawyer error (I can say that as “I see lawyers everywhere” in my life). However, as an engineer you will really ENJOY the links then!!
The most amazing inventions with and without many moving parts to ease life in various countries from crazy toilets to mobile sawmills on and on! You’ll love it!
Den
Eben, thanks for the posts.
Eben - thanks for the post, it was very helpful.