Somewhere end of December I started assembling a safari itinerary for South Africa. The idea was/is to spend some time in the private game reserves around Kruger, and end the trip in Mozambique (relax a bit on the beach). This would be in September 2010.
Now that our trip is booked, I’d like to share all my information with you. Who knows, it might help you with your itinerary.
For those only interested in lodges with spa’s, massages and heated towel racks: quick! Click Away! Away!
For those looking for info on affordable safaris around Kruger; read on.
Info for safaris in game reserves around Kruger
Recent Activity
View all Africa & the Middle East activity »
- 1 RSA: Tswalu vs Mashatu vs Phinda
- 2
16 Days in Uganda - mountain gorillas and so much more!
- 3 2 weeks in South Africa with teens
- 4 How to find if safari company is legit ?
- 5 Tanzania in 2014
- 6 Mosquito repellants whicwork best !!
- 7 Best Budget Tour Operator
- 8 phone service
- 9 How to choose tour group for Egypt
- 10 Living in Morocco.
- 11
Our best trip ever - in Morocco
- 12 Difference between Air Botswana and South African Air
- 13
Morocco . . . Rough Around the Edges
- 14
Mozambique 1 - 13 June 2013.
- 15 Yellow Fevor innoculation revisited
- 16 Questions re Gorillas in Rwanda and money in both Rwanda and Tanzania
- 17 6 nights in Morocco - how long to spend in marrakech and fes each?
- 18 Driving Aswan to Luxor
- 19 Help! First trip to Africa and overwhelmed!!
- 20
TRIP REPORT: Northern Tanzania with a Birding Twist 2/13
- 21 Cross Egypt Challenge and 4 extra days
- 22 Makoa-Farm Tanzania
- 23 Africa Safari
- 24 Morocco Tour Operators: Morocco Expert Tours
- 25 Wildebeest Mara river crossing started?



WHAT WE WERE LOOKING FOR:
To put it very simple; a top safari destination (game-wise) for a non-top price.
Otherwise put; the only things important are:
- Quality of game viewing. A broad range of species. A quality guide and tracker to spot them. A vehicle suited to get to the animals. A level of exclusivity (not too many people at a sighting). The possibility to off-road. The possibility to do walking safaris. You get the idea.
- An overall price that remains affordable, while still guaranteeing a good level of comfort. We’re not millionaires, but have no kids and earn decent money. We’ve set ourselves a goal; the total price should not exceed two monthly wages (me & wife combined, net wages). We succeeded in doing so.
Or again otherwise put; what I tried to stay away from is:
- Typical safari offers that we can find over here in the travel agencies. Mostly, they travel in big groups (20 to 40 people) , travel in the wrong type of vehicle (minivans, huge trucks, ...), do not focus entirely on nature (visits to Blyde rivier, Pilgrims Rest, ... been there done that did not bother getting the T-shirt), and only go to the most touristy parts of National Parks.
- Offers that take the comfort level to a too strict minimum. Like sleeping in baboon-infested public campsites with shared amenities that are very filthy. Typically food is sub-par as well. And instead of a bucket shower, you get a bucket all right ...on the floor, filled with cold water. OK, I’m sketching the worst of the worst here but you get the idea.
- The super luxurious lodges that cost as much per night as I make per week. The kind of place that requires you to put on other clothing in the evening. The kind of place that has an electrified fence around it because those staying there cannot even stand the thought of sharing space with wild animals. The kind of place that has a huge pool that is hardly used, while the lodge is located near an almost empty waterhole where animals are fighting over the last drops of water.
I looked at plenty of options. A private mobile camping safari (like we did with Ewan Masson in Botswana) seemed almost impossible to find in/around Kruger. Or it is very expensive. We also dismissed the idea of a self-drive very soon. I hardly have any 4x4 experience. And without a good guide and/or tracker, I’m sure we’d only see half of what there is to see.
I also dismissed – albeit with pain in my heart – multi-day walking safaris like this one: http://www.transfrontiers.com . I could do that, but my wife thinks it’s a bit too much for her.
Soon enough, I was looking at private game reserves around Kruger, to see if I could find some affordable accommodations.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The first thing to find is some good general sites. Sites that show you what is available around Kruger. Where the game reserves are located. And what concessions/lodges are in them.
For Sabi Sands, that website is easy enough to find, and since this forum is Sabi Sands-biased, I assume it is well known (I’ll mention it anyway, below)
The clickable map on that site is very good of course. It shows all traversing rights of the lodges, and with that info you can make sure you do not end up in a lodge where there’s hardly any ground to cover ( = hardly anything to see). Well, you’re still not 100% sure of course, as a huge area may still prove to be uninteresting (hardly any tracks, no waterways, ...).
But – it may be a surprise to some here – there’s more game reserves around Kruger than Sabi Sands!
I found a zillion sites on these other game reserves, most of which were very very commercial. Of course that is no problem, but for most it was quite clear that their information was far from complete, as they only focused on the stuff they’d like to sell.
This site gave a bit of good info (lots of reading to do, I’m afraid): http://www.frommers.com/destinations/krugernationalpark/2456020905.html
...but in the end, I ended up using this site the most:
http://www.sa-venues.com/game-reserves/np_game_lodges-lowveld.htm
Again a clickable map. You can click on any Game Reserve, and you get some info on that reserve. How big it is. What there is to see, and what game lodges are in it. The info is still not complete, but you do get a large choice of lodges to look into.
The only thing lacking is traversing right info. So you’ll probably end up doing what I did; visit the websites of these lodges, and if you like what you see: write to the lodge, ask them to make you an offer, and ask them about how big the area is that they are allowed to drive/walk in.
I started getting plenty of information back, and soon enough decided to choose one lodge per game reserve. I had 12 days of safari to fill, so that gave me the possibility to choose 4 lodges in four different game reserves.
But which game reserves? I decided to stay as close to Kruger borders as possible (it is obvious from reading the info that the further you get from Kruger, the less biodiversity there is). And I decided to pick four, from north to south. That made sense, as it means minimizing transfer times between lodges, and as we needed to get to Kruger airport (which is in the south) for our flight to Mozambique. I chose:
- Klaserie Nature Reserve
- Timbavati Game Reserve
- Manyeleti Game Reserve
- Sabi Sands Game Reserve
LODGE INFORMATION – In Game Reserves not chosen
Before I continue with the four reserves mentioned above, let me give you the list of lodges that I also looked at, but where located elsewhere. FWIW, this info may be of use to you. Prices are averages, not exact science. Note that this is just a short list, far from being complete ( = far from all there is available). The essence of the list is: these are accommodations that were in my budget, and looked OK.
Lodge: Edeni Hoyo Hoyo Lodge
Location: Edeni Private Game Reserve
Web: www.edeni.com
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2500/250/375
Lodge: Edeni Hoyo Hoyo River Lodge
Location: Edeni Private Game Reserve
Web: www.edeni.com
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2000/200/300
Lodge: Edeni Hoyo Hoyo Bush Lodge
Location: Edeni Private Game Reserve
Web: www.edeni.com
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2000/200/300
Lodge: Kuname River Lodge
Location: Edeni Private Game Reserve
Web: http://www.kuname.co.za/
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2000/200/300
Lodge: Mopaya Safari Lodge
Location: Thornybush GR
Web: http://www.mopayasafari.co.za/english/default.htm
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2650/265/400
Lodge: Nokana Safari Camp
Location: Thornybush GR
Web: http://www.mopayasafari.co.za/english/default.htm
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 1350/135/200
Lodge: Tangala Lodge
Location: Thornybush GR
Web: http://www.tangala.co.za/
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 1500/150/225
Lodge: Thornybush Chapungu
Location: Thornybush GR
Web: http://www.chapungulodge.co.za/
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2500/250/375
Lodge: Jackalberry safari lodge
Location: Thornybush GR
Web: http://thornybush.krugerpark.co.za/Family_Safari_Lodges-travel/lodges-south-africa-jackalberry.html
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2500/250/375
Lodge: Hoyo Hoyo Tsonga lodge
Location: Kruger NP, center-west
Web: http://www.hoyohoyo.co.za/hoyo-hoyo/index.jsp
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2900/290/450
Lodge: Isibindi Rhino Post Safari lodge
Location: Kruger NP, center-west
Web: http://www.isibindiafrica.co.za
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2200/220/330
Lodge: Isibindi Plains Camp
Location: Kruger NP, center-west
Web: http://www.isibindiafrica.co.za
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2500/250/375
Lodge: Mohlabetsi safari lodge
Location: Balule NR
Web: http://www.mohlabetsi.co.za/
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 1500/150/225
Lodge: Pondoro Game Lodge
Location: Balule GR
Web: http://www.pondoro.co.za
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 1900/190/300
Lodge: Makalali Private Game Lodge
Location: Makalali Private Game Reserve
Web: http://www.makalali.co.za/
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2500/250/375
LODGE INFORMATION – Klaserie NR
In this Game Reserve I found a lot of interesting lodges. There’s this self-catering thing (“Maduma Boma”) but that’s obviously not what we’re looking for.
Then I found this: http://www.klaseriecamps.com/ which gave me:
Lodge: Kitara Camp
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2200/220/330
Lodge: Nzumba lodge
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 1900/190/300
And then one other lodge, from the general site mentioned above;
Lodge: Africa On Foot
Web: http://www.africaonfoot.com/index.html
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 1550/155/230
I chose this one because it has that little extra, something special: a tree house where you can spend the night as well (complete with beds, but open views). Seems fun to me. Some fun way to start the safari.
LODGE INFORMATION – Timbavati GR
I can be very short about Timbavati:
- Here’s a list of all lodges: http://www.timbavati.co.za/ (choose “tourism” -> “Timbavati Lodges”)
- Personally, I only looked at these three:
Lodge: Motswari Private Game Lodge
Web: http://www.motswari.co.za
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2750/275/420
Lodge: Gomo GomoGame Lodge
Web: http://www.gomogomo.co.za/
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 1500/150/225
Lodge: Shindzela Tented Safari Camp
Web: http://www.shindzela.co.za/
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 1200/120/180
...and on this last one I read this:
****
- we don't have an African spa... we think that fresh air and the sights and sounds of the bush constitute a spa experience second to none anyway....
- we don't have a high staff / guest ratio. If you fancy a cold beer, please help yourself and mark it down on our honesty bar tab
- our menu's don't feature dishes with culinary terms like "jus", "compote" or "lightly seared". Our meals are tasty and homemade, with lots of fresh fruit, veg and salads. Enjoy a traditional South Africa braai with freshly baked safari bread, or a potjie (stew), cooked slowly over the fire.
- our camp is not built by an award winning architect, nor is it furnished by an interior designer. What you will find though, is a comfy bed, freshly laundered linen, and decor from local crafters and artists. We love our informal, relaxed atmosphere.
****
That’s the spirit! I’ve never seen a lodge that dares to say it so straight forward on their website. Reason enough to just book this lodge and support their style of safari.
Strangely enough, this lodge is not on the list of Timbavati lodges (see first weblink in this post).
LODGE INFORMATION – Manyeleti GR
Again a short list:
- There are the Honeyguide camps (Khoka Moya and Montabeni), but these are R3000 or more pppn, and that is the limit I set myself. So I have not looked further into those
- There’s Tintswalo Safari lodge, and those rates are even more ridiculous.
- And then there’s Pungwe.:
Lodge: Pungwe Bush Camp
Web: http://www.pungwe.co.za/
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 1450/145/220
Obviously I chose this one, as it’s the only one in our budget range. I checked tripadvisor to make sure, but oh bot ...I shouldn’t have worried at all.
LODGE INFORMATION – Sabi Sands
For this, I obviously used the website often mentioned on this board. I guess you all know it. But here is the link anyway:
http://www.sabisand.co.za/ssw-map.html
So getting the list of available choices was easy, but getting the right lodge was even more easy; most were simply out of my budget range. Not that that would have changed much. Most of the expensive ones did not even appeal to me. In fact, some websites made my stomach turn.
So I guess I’ll start with mentioning the one choice I really had:
Lodge: Elephant Plains Game Lodge
Web: http://www.elephantplains.co.za/home/
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 1700/170/250
Are there any alternatives? No.
Well, only if the regular accomodations at Elephant’s are fully booked. Then yes there is one that can compete with Elephant’s luxury rooms.
Lodge: Arathusa Safari Lodge
Web: http://www.arathusa.co.za/
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2400/240/360
...and if you’re prepared to pay a wee bit more, there’s even more choices:
Lodge: Djuma Bush Lodge
Web: http://www.djuma.com/gallery_B_lodge.php
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2900/290/450
Lodge: Notten’s Bush Camp
Web: http://www.nottens.com/default.asp
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2800/280/440
...and finally, there’s one last option that even may bring that price down a bit: if you book 3 nights at Idube and combine that with 3 nights in Lukimbi Safari lodge (in the very south of Kruger, very close to Kruger Airport), then you the price is about 250€ pppn. Still too much for my liking though.
Lodge: Idube Game Reserve / Lukimbi Safari Lodge
Web: http://idube.com/
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 2500/250/375
There you have it, folks. Hope this info is worth something to you.


At least it should be clear now that a good safari in Kruger can also be found outside Sabi Sands borders.
If needed, I can also give some info on flights to and from Mozambique, and on choices at the coast of Mozambique. But only around Vilanculos as that is where the airport is.
Of course I’ll write a trip report. But that’ll be about a year from now.
Ciao,
J.
Thanks for sharing your survey. I spent some time looking at the websites of some of the options near Sabi Sands. I will be interested in your trip report.
Pixelpower,
That is the most awesome batch of research work I've seen. Congratulations!
And I'm glad to see that there are those who share my perspective of what "real" Africa is to a large extent. I would probably have chosen the same lodges for the same reasons.
Enjoy your trip!
Pixelpower

Excellent overall information!
But don't get it wrong:
Klaserie: Hunting - just recently causing a very ugly discussion regarding an elephant hunt - trophy hunt!
http://www.sanparks.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=73&t=38739&start=75
Timbavati as well as Thornybush: Trophy hunting within the reserve.
These "reserves" gain a large portion of their yield by trophy hunting.
Compared to SS, which doesn't allow any trophy hunting - there are rumours that one large concessions does allow occasional hunts but nothing confirms/proven - and therefore sacrifice a huge chunk of money, one should take that into consideration!
I a looking forward to reading your report.
Happy travels!
SV
A couple questions please.
Were you looking at a $$$ limit for camps/lodges?? Is it about $450 pppn?? If so, you left out several camps in the Timbavati and Sabi Sand reserves, e.g. Kings Camp, Nagal Lodge, Kirkmans Kamp, for starters. (FWIW, all these I've been too). Also, many camps have deals if you stay longer and this can bring down the per night cost by maybe 25%.
Gomo Gomo is no longer in the Timbavati, they moved out to the Klaserie reserve. The old Gomo Gomo camp has another name of ??
I've read that there are 600 game reserves/farms/lodges in SA. I know as you drive in the Kruger area say along SA highways R40, R526 every few miles you see a gate saying game farm/lodge and a lot of fencing. The only one I've been to was Tshukudu Game Lodge outside of Hoedspruit (http://www.tshukudulodge.co.za/englishindex.htm)
We went there one morning to have a little two hour walk with a lion, a young female. We also saw cheetah in fenced area and I think all of their predators are fenced. So, point being, there are safari lodges/camps and then there are safari lodges/camps.
Anyway, have you decided on camps for 2010??
regards - tom
"We went there one morning to have a little two hour walk with a lion, a young female."

That lioness went straight to be hunted down after it has grown out of the "walking-friendly mood".
One cannot stress often enough: If you consider yourself an "animal lover" you should avoid under any circumstances any venue which does lion walks, elephant back rides and any cat cub petting!
Don't belief in any explanation these venues give you! It's lies and nothing but lies!
NEVER DO IT PLEASE!
These animals all end up as trophies at the walls of sich serial killers!
SV
Nice work Pixelpower!
Hey pixelpower,
Wow--great information! I'm curious to hear where you pick as well.
I do want to clear up any misconceptions that some might get by reading about your search. Kruger's campgrounds/rest camps are not nearly as bad as your worse-case scenario suggests they might be. Yes, they are crowded, but not "baboon-infested." The toilets and showers that I have used have all not only worked (hot and cold water), but also were immaculately clean. Much, MUCH cleaner than ANY shower I've ever used in a U.S. National Park. The bungalows and safari tents that I've used have always been clean and very well-priced. I've never spent over $100/night, and that was with a "luxury bungalow." My average lodging costs are usually $35-65 per night (that's for 2 people, too) for a bungalow or safari tent.
One also does not need to do any 4x4 driving in Kruger. I think every road that is publicly acccessible can be done so using a 2-wheel drive vehicle.
It sounds like you've traveled to other national parks that don't have as nice of infrastructure. Kruger is much different from them.
If you're interested in walking safaris, you might be interested also in Kruger's Wilderness Trails. They're 4-day/3-night walking safaris inside of Kruger. The accomodations for these camps seem a little nicer than the ones shown in the Transfrontiers website and are cheaper. I know you mentioned your wife wasn't as interested, but if she changes her mind, keep it mind!
Oops, I forgot to include the Wilderness Trail website: http://www.sanparks.org/parks/kruger/tourism/activities/wilderness/default.php
Agreeing with what Gritty writes.
PP - have you been in Kruger? (We have in 2006, 2007 and 2009).
And, so, what camps have you chosen???
(And SV agree also about the walk with lion thing).
Regards - tom
Wow! So many reactions. Did not expect that...
I did that on purpose to make my point clear about rest camps. And that point is; you never know beforehand what you're going to get. It may be that toilets are clean, or it may not be. There may be baboons around raiding campers, there may not be. It may be crowded, or not. You may get lucky. You could get extremely unlucky.
-----
@Spassvogel; I know about all this, but if you dismiss every reserve in it's totality for one particular thing that you don't like, then you might as well stay home.
Instead of staying away, I'd rather support the lodges that do it the right way, like the ones I've chosen, and support them. The more people do that, the bigger their budget. The bigger their budget, the more other operations will be "bought out" or discouraged. Or perhaps rather encouraged ..to go the same way.
As far as I can tell, trophy hunting should be minimal in the reserves I go to this year, as most operators do as much walks than drives in their area. Something they wouldn't do (I think) if wildlife was under stress from hunting.
-----
@Tom; I tried to stay away from expensive lodges as much as possible. Elephant Plains is only about half the figure that most Sabi Sands lodges put on their website.
I only started looking at the more expensive lodges when I got a reply from EP saying that their "rondavels" were already fully booked. I then looked at their "luxury rooms" and saw that still only one lodge is about the same as that figure (Arathusa).
Just out of curiosity, I set my limit higher (about R3000 pppn), and then I again started finding some others. But you're right; there may be more.
But to be honest, I'd never go to Notten's, Djuma, Kings Camp, ... even Arathusa was "too much" in my eyes.
Luckily, the non-availability issue for EP was resolved by switching our days spent in Pungwe with the ones in EP.
I know there's lots more lodges than I noted down in my "report". That's what I said from the start; the lists are far from complete, but I hope it's a good starting point for anyone else who is considering a safai in/near Kruger. And I hope it is clear now that there is more than Sabi Sands.
The lodges I chose are mentioned in my posts:
Africa On Foot - Klaserie GR
Shindzela - Timbavati GR
Pungwe - Manyeleti GR
Elephant Plains - Sabi Sands GR
None of these is fenced. The reserves I mentioned are all unfenced, and there is no fence either between these reserver and Kruger NP. The "lodges" you talk about that you saw near the SA highways are - I guess - not in those reserves but even further away from Kruger.
I would never visit a lodge that offers "lion walks". I would like to make it very clear that none of the areas or lodges I summed up do this sort of thing!
I would however, go to a fenced lodge, if it were worth it. There are a lot out there that do good work. And I know any one of those would like nothing more than to be able to join their territories with neighboring lodges offering the same wildlife experience. Thula Thula comes to mind. Nobody read that "Elephant whisperer" book yet? This guy has a small reserve, adopts some rogue elephants, and is succesfull in what he does. I'd gladly support a lodge like that. And by doing so I hope neighboring properties start thinking about going the same route.
-----
@ Gritty;
I know I was exaggerating when describing public rest camps. I said I was!
We've done a private camping safari in Botswana, and we passed numerous public camp sites there so I know what I saw there. One was crowded, one had unfinished shower blocks, another was full of baboons, etc... It may be that the ones in Kruger are of the best, but judging from your reply it seems I'm right on at least one thing; the ARE crowded.
Note that I've visited Kruger before (in 2000). And yes, I know that you can stick to a 2-wheel drive. But that would mean staying on main roads. It would be far from the experience I consider to be a safari; driving on asphalt, looking at nature from behind closed windows... Last time in Kruger we spent an hour in a queue of vehicles, just to see one leopards tail. It was complete chaos! At that time, I did not know any better; it was our first safari experience. But now I stay away from that kind of stuff...
About Wilderness trails; thanks for the link. I found this info too, but forgot to list it above. I also found that transfrontiers.com website that offers similar stuff. But as I said; the mss thinks multi-day walks is a bit too much for her.
Ciao,
J.
Hello J,
Once again, your post reflects the type of values that I believe should be intrinsic to "African" safaris.
I would've chosen the same lodges, but I hadn't heard of Shindzela (thanks for recommendation). I've always supported a lodge called Umlani in that area (same ethic and price bracket), and it's great to know of other options.
I've dealt with Pungwe for a number of years, and I think you'll have a great experience with them.
I must agree with you about the camp sites in Botswana though. I was there 6 weeks ago, and the same situation existed. Unfinished ablution blocks, no toilet paper, broken or missing toilet seats, animal encroachment, uncleaned refuse bins, broken or unserviceable refuse bins, no hot water (and in one case, no water, which made for "wonderful" experiences in the toilets at daybreak, particularly as the lights weren't working), over-crowding, no staff in sight to address problems. Quite a shambles.
And for all this, Botswana has "sold" all their campsites to private operators, and for the privilage of experiencing this disgrace, you now pay an additional US$50.00 per person per night (on top of the $20.00-odd you pay Botswana Wildlife).
@ Spassvogel:
I echo Pixelpower's sentiments. Although I agree with many of your values and posts on many issues, you cannot simply dismiss every single establishment or operator in an entire region (or country, as you've done in another post), simply because you disagree with certain practices by a minority. There are many good and honourable people and operations in South Africa and many others, and these folk need to be supported in their efforts in conserving our environment.
Ummm... I just realized I forgot to add Mohlabetsi lodge to the list of lodges "in the reserves I did not choose".
That is highly unfair as Michaela (from that lodge) gave me lots of useful information. They also have a great deal together with Iketla lodge (non-wildlife; it's near Blyde rivier canyon). This would certainly appeal to people who have not seen the area yet.
So here you go:
Lodge: Mohlabetsi Lodge
Location: Balule Game Reserve
Web: http://www.mohlabetsi.co.za
Price pppn Rand/€/$: 1650/165/245
Ciao,
J.
PP and BK

It's meant to be an information and nothing else - except for the lion walks etc.
Anybody can choose whatever is available and knowing about things doesn't hurt; decisions made based on all sorts of info doesn't necessarily means limitations.
SV
Hi SV,
No problem. The info you provide is extremely valuable. You have given a number of links to threads of great importance and interest.
I was quite impressed about the outcome of the hunting fiasco on Klaserie, by the way. It appears that SanParks took the matter up with the reserve and with various parties involved, and a very strong message of disapproval was sent.
I understand that the PH's hunting licences were suspended for a year (unfortunately not revoked permanently, which would have sent the right message), and Klaserie has been warned to toe the line.
I trust that the old boy is safe (for now)!
I fully agree about the lion walks though! But that's already been debated ad infinitum. I'm not going to say anything further here tho' ...
You've saved people looking for something similar loads of time!
No jus or compote was pretty funny. Considering a compote can be 3 kinds of fruit chopped up, you may end up with one after all.
When you return, I'd love a report to see where you ended up and what you thought of the places. You can then prove me right or wrong about the compote.
I have to take issue with this statement about Kruger:
>>Note that I've visited Kruger before (in 2000). And yes, I know that you can stick to a 2-wheel drive. But that would mean staying on main roads. It would be far from the experience I consider to be a safari; driving on asphalt, looking at nature from behind closed windows...<<
You certainly don't need 4WD to use the non-paved roads in Kruger. We spent a week there in November in a non 4WD vehicle and only once chose not to take a particular dirt road (due to it being quite rainy hence somewhat muddy.) And if you are behind closed windows in Kruger, then you are also making a huge mistake! We only closed our windows when the rain was pouring in, and sometimes not even then. Yes, you do of course need to remain in your vehicle and not stick appendages out the window, but you certainly can, and should, keep them open! How else can you hear the sounds and smell the smells?
Also, to add another lodge to your Sabi Sand list--we stayed at both Elephant Plains and Nkorho. Nkorho is only slightly more expensive than EP and definitely on par, if not a bit nicer in some ways. We preferred Nkorho's grounds and pool, and intimate feel (only 7 rooms) to EP's, although EP had better food.
Re Kruger, agree with jczinn. You don't use 4WD, any Avis rental car out of JNB will do fine. Most roads are not asphalt but smooth gravel. Leave the windows down. We have been among/surrounded by elephants, zebra, giraffe, buffalo, baboons there as much as in any safari camp. But as for big cats, well, you do need a private camp for that up-close-and-personal thrill. We like to start our safari in Kruger. After flying many hours from USA Kruger is a wind down, a jet lag cushion, and time cushion before going to private camps. Done this three times and I'm sure we will be back in Kruger.
regards - tom
Pixelpower,
thank you so much for this extremely useful list of traditional and affordable camps. Some I have on my list of maybes, but most are new to me. I applaud the Shindzela philosophy and have bookmarked your thread for future safari planning.
Bushkid0 and jczinn some good recommendations for Umlani and Nkhoro as well.
I have Lawrence Anthony's book Elephant whisperer in my reading pile and will read it next.
Looking forward to the report...
Cheers,
Pol
Hey guys & girls,
A few replies on the latest posts:
1) D'oh! I forgot to mention Nkhoro! It is actually also on the list of lodges I looked at. The thing is; it does not advertise prices on the website. Therefore, I only asked for prices after EP told me they had no place for us. However, by the time I got the prices, I already managed to switch EP days with Pungwe days, so I had no more need for Nkhoro.
2) About 4WD versus 2-wheel in Kruger; I think you missed my point. Perhaps of course, because I did not explain well. My only intention was to point out the difference between a self-drive safari in Kruger NP with a rented vehicle versus a safari in a private concession in one of the reserves flanking Kruger NP. To name a few differences:
- Roads to take. If you rent a vehicle, it'll probably be a normal car. I've seen plenty of these when I was there. And I'm sorry but that to me is NOT the right vehicle. Sure, perhaps there are quite a few roads you can take. If the weather is fine perhaps even some dirt tracks. But the point is; you can hardly go where a 4WD can go.
- The feel you get. You're looking from behind the glass. Yes, sure, you can open the windows to let the smell in, but the biggest part of your view is through the front window. Which is not a window you can lay down, like with the typical safari 4WD vehicles.
- Space to move. a car is sooo very small inside. Want to get a good shot through your window? Well, if you follow the Kruger rules, your lens should not stick out of the window. My head is 30cm from the windows, my lens is 55cm long. You do the math. There's also the roof; photographing predators flying overhead is almost impossible. Standing up through an opened roof is - understandably - prohibited. I hope it's clear; it's much easier to take a shot from an open jeep.
- and even if you would rent a 4WD vehicle that comes close to the feel of a real "safari vehicle": you still miss that guide. A person who can spot the animals much better than you do. A person wo knows where to drive to, where the most interesting spots are.
So bottom line is, people; there IS a huge difference between the two types off travel. I've seen both. I know which one I prefer.
I also know what most people will do if they do a self-drive there. It's what I would do, what every Joe Average would do; perhaps take a side road here or there, but don't drive too far from the main roads because you might get lost, you might get stuck, you might damage the car. and the trip can get very expensive.
So even if YOU know where to drive and don't spend a lot of time on asphalt, that does not mean that MOST OTHERS dare to do the same. I've seen all the people on the asphalt. I've seen the traffic jams.
3) Pol, if you read a lot, here's a golden tip: get the latest book ("In bushveld and desert") from Chris Bakkes. It is the best I've read in years.
Ciao,
J.
Oh and Lynn: we say "compote" to something which is basically just crushed apples, and to the thing you rub out of your eyes in the morning.

But I know in high cuisine it is used an exquisite way to name a course that is often quite simple to prepare.
I guess Shindzela is making fun of this latter use of the word. And when they mix three fruits, I'm sure they'll call it "mixed fruit".
Ciao,
J.
Hi pixelpower,
Thanks for the clarification. I didn't know you had already been to Kruger. I thought you were probably exaggerating about your expected state of public rest camps, but I didn't know if you had experienced Kruger's camps in person. I just wanted to make sure that others who read this thread know that their rest camps are very clean and well-maintained. It was a bit of a shock to visit Kruger camps and then go to Etosha's public camps a few years ago (before they supposedly renovated their camps). At that time, Etosha's camp facilities were really run-down. It's too bad to hear about Botswana's camps as well. I'm seriously considering renting a kitted-out 4x4 in Joburg and self-driving northern Botswana this year. I was expecting run-down camps, but at $50/night?!!? Yikes. I like to camp because it's cheap, and that's not cheap!
I really do appreciate your efforts to show us all the more budget-oriented options that the Kruger area has to offer. I've been curious about checking out some of the less-expensive private reserves, but my travel style isn't well-suited for these types of places. I don't really like being driven around all day looking for stuff when I can do it myself, and I don't mind what little traffic there is in Kruger because I'm used to the crowds at the U.S. parks. I escape the crowds eventually by doing the Wilderness Trails. However, the prices for the places you've referred to are pretty reasonable and are somewhat competitive with Kruger self-drive trips. Perhaps my curiosity will get the best of me someday and I'll check one out. I've not been too interested before because I didn't want to shell out lots of money and then not like it.
Pixelpower


As I have not read all the posts maybe it came up already:
The more budget conscious ppaces mostly put 3 peaople in one row. So vehicles can get crowded. Particularly sad if one is a serious photographer, has his/her photo backpack on the lap - not to mention to sit in the middle seat and all the shaking/moving etc.
Rotating might not always be an option if there are several photographers inboard.
Just be aware!
E.g. EP has 9 people in one vehicle when it's crowded
But wildlife wise - it's a bargain in SS terms!
SAV
Can we also see your final itinerary before you depart?
SV - good points about photography, of which I'm very keen about. And as you know, many photographers hire a private vehicle just so they have maximum control over their photography. But this certainly blows a huge hole in the budget with your private vehicle adding at least $200-300 per day to your camp cost.
And I just have to add about Kruger. Kruger is different from a private safari camp in many ways. Some people will love it, some won't, but if you love safaris, Kruger is very much worth a few days try once. The main cost of doing it will be your time, not your $$$.
regards - tom
Hey SV,
Yeah I know that. But unfortunately, there's not much I can do about it. I'm either out of budget (more exclusive lodges offering more jeep space, or hiring a private vehicle is out of the question) or out of options (the formula like we had in Botswana does not exist in South Africa, or is again out of our budget range). So I guess I'll have to make the best of it, and hope some seats stay empty.
In my eyes, the ideal formula is a non-participating private camping safari. Like we had with Ewan Masson. It comes down to this:
- private guide & vehicle
- the essential comfort
- great food
- as close to nature as you can get
- affordable
- private camp sites = just you, no crowds
Well, to be honest it's not 100% perfect either. I can think of at least on flaw; you are not allowed to off-road. Something that we will be able to do now.
About photography & the dragging around all the gear; I think I'm a bit passed that stage now. How many more pics can I take? I'd rather let the encounter with the animal sink in. That is why this time I opted for plenty of walks. Will I still shoot pics? Sure. I'll have one camera body with one tele lens on my lap. And some batteries and cards in my pocket. But that' it. And I'll only use it when the opportunity is really great. My wife also has a HD digicam now. It weighs as light as a feather and takes up no space at all. So we'll have some great footage anyway. And on walks, I can take a wide angle lens...
Lynn,
My final itinerary is already written down somewhere higher up. It's:
- 3N "Africa On Foot", Klaserie GR, Kruger
- 3N "Shindzela Lodge", Timbavati GR, Kruger
- 3N "Elephant Plains", Sabi Sands GR, Kruger
- 3N "Pungwe Lodge", Manyeleti GR, Kruger
- 4N "Nyati Beach Lodge", Mozambique
We leave mid september.
Ciao,
J.
Pixelpower,
I bought the Chris Bakkes book in Namibia in 2008 - read it on the plane home and thoroughly enjoyed it. I have a bibliography of over 200 books on Africa that I have read - happy to share if you'd like a copy.
How do you plan to transfer between these lodges? Do you need to fly, or are the lodges happy to arrange a ground transfer at a reasonable rate?
Cheers,
Pol
This is a brilliant piece of research! You have done many of us a BIG favor. Can't wait to hear about it once you're back.
"I'd rather let the encounter with the animal sink in."

PP - absolutely great attitude!
My hubs is a very serious wildlife photographer and I see what it does to the experience.
Sometimes it's so sad that he cannot enjoy an opportunity without having that lens in front of his face.
It's a totally different experience watching thru a lens or being able to absorb the events how they unfold.
Seeing it your way does not necessarily lead to any disappoinment!
You sure will have a great safari!
When it comes to EP and it's rather small concession: A friend of ours spent 2 weeks there in Sep 2008; they had a tight budget and could'n afford a SUV which means between 250 and 300ZAR for every empty seat per game drive or day - I am not so certain on that one. They were thrilled with the leopard sightings despite they are experienced safaristi and also keen on photography!
And they also made good photos.
Well, they did not have to share the vehicle with loads of folks each and every day there. Luck of the draw!
You will have a great time!
Enjoy whatever comes along!
SV
@Lillipets & SV: thanks!
@Treepol;
200 books?? Wow!
I keep a list as well. Not that I'm a keeper of lists, but in this case it's the only way to remember what you have have read and own, what you have read but do not own (borrowed, or from library, etc), and what is still on your list.
A quick calculation; I've got 81 nature-related books in my library (most of them are also Africa-related). Some of them are photo books, of course.
And I've got another 39 on my wish list.
I'd be very glad if you could share your list. I'll send you mine in return. You can always reach me at: pixelpower at telenet dot be. But I'm even more curious to know what your most treasured and most enjoyed books are.
To answer your question about transfers:
- The transfer from the airport to Africa On Foot and from Africa On Foot to Shindzela is included in the AOF price.
- Shinzela will take us to EP. That costs R1760 for the two of us.
- From EP to Pungwe and later on from Pungwe to Kruger airport is done by a company called Eastsaf.co.za and costs about R3000 for the two of us. (the airport is a rather far drive)
Ciao,
J.
J

Pleasure!
Go to www.exclusivebooks.com and order in advance to be delivered to one venue in SA or visit in JNB or OR TAMBO.
Happy reading!
SV
Thanks.
I use either amazon.co.uk (never the .com as then we get an extra tax bill from customs department. I'm in Belgium EU, by the way). Or I use Kalahari.net.
Uih - just "around the corner" from where I live

Happy travels!
SV
Another thanks for all this detail! I'll certainly refer to it for our next trip. Our maiden voyage to Africa was last September, with 2 nights as a treat at Djuma and 9 nights in Kruger, including a wilderness trail. We completely fell in love with everything and cannot wait to go back, I have no other Kruger comments to add. I am interested in the trip to Mozambique -- the lodge there looks pricey, but it seems like they all are. What is the airfare like, are you flying into and out of JNB or one of the Kruger airports?
Has anyone looked at wildearth.tv? This is a live video with one program based at Djuma. The camera crew takes you on several "game drives" a day. The fun part lately has been following the lives of three leopards, mom Karula and her sons Induna and Mixo, who are about 14 months old. We saw these guys live at Djuma, so it feels like they are "our" leopards. Poor Induna just had the tip of his lovely tail bitten off, presumably by a hyena!
gigib
I know many of us here are avid wildearth tv watchers. Are you familiar with another web cam in Botswana at a place called Petes Pond? Google Pete's Pond and you'll find it.
There is also Africam.com which is another camera at a lodge in Sabi Sands called Nkhoro. You probably drove by it when you were in Djuma and didn't know it!
Happy viewing! I know they provide a much needed "fix" for me!
Pete's pond has been so active lately. It's been fun. Can't wait to get back to Mashatu.
Gigib,
If I find the time I'll list all stuff that I know about Mozambique as well.
Ciao,
J.
Pixelpower,
its a tough call to list a few favourites. I have 75 wildlife titles in my library, most of which are Africa-related. Favourites, based on those titles I can recall without going to the shelves:
Bennun, David - Tick bite fever
Fuller, Alexandra - Don't lets go to the dogs tonight
Henderson, Sally - Ivory moon
Ridgeway, Rick - The Shadow of Kilimanjaro
Clark, June Vendall - Starlings laughing
Owens, Delia and Mark - Cry of the Kalahari
Drayson, Nicholas - A Guide to the birds of East Africa
Huxley, Elspeth - The Flame trees of Thika
Jonathan Scott's works
Cheers,
Pol
Thanks for the list Treepol! I'll send you mine in return.
Seems we share some favourites (Shadow of Kili, Cry of the Kalahari, and indeed the Scott's...)
Here are some of mine:
The Trouble With Africa - Vic Guhrs
Whatever You Do, Don't Run - Peter Allison
When a Crocodile Eats the Sun - Peter Godwin
In Bushveld and Desert - Christiaan Bakkes
Wildlife Wars - Richard Leakey
Ciao,
J.
This is a great thread. Thanks to pixelpower and everyone else who contributed.
Tagging on this thread for future reference. Thanks!
Thanks J for this research, I'm sure I'll use your list as a reference point in future ('affordable' being my middle name!).
And also thanks for booklist, I've been working my way through the list which came up on the forum a few months ago (also thanks to Pol for that) but I can't get my hands on three of your top 5 -'The Trouble With Africa' is no-where to be found, and this year I tried all the bookshops in Windhoek and JNB airport for the Christiaan Bakkes book with no luck, (I say 'all' but there aren't so many!) but I've just tracked down a second-hand copy of Wildlife Wars which I hope to get into soon!
Thanks again for sharing all your knowledge!
T - have you tried Amazon, I buy a lot from them, easy, quick, reliable
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=The+Trouble+With+Africa&x=17&y=24
regards - tom
Or Kalahari.net; very good for "our" favorite books as well!
@All; very nice to see that my info is appreciated. I hope more people start doing the same for other regions (personally, I'd like to know more about affordable safari itineraries in Namibia and Zambia).
Ciao,
J.
Thanks Tom, Amazon is always my first stop, but Amazon UK wants about 80USD for 'The trouble with Africa' for some reason, and I've used Kalahari.net, thanks J, although postage tends to cost more than the book - anyhow I'll keep these on my list!
I'd like to help with Namibia after all the advice you've given me, but we've always done self-drive and I know you're not keen. You mentioned walking safaris, I've heard good things about Mundulea Nature Reserve in Namibia but haven't been myself (yet!)- anyone else got personal experience? This page from a tour operator's website gives some ideas for walking safaris in Namibia:
http://www.expertafrica.com/special_interest/Namibia/Walking_safaris.htm
- maybe for your next year's trip! But sorry, maybe I digress too much, you're talking about Kruger 2010 here!
Wow, what a great thread. Thank you so much for sharing this information!
pp-
Thanks for all the info. I wanted to bring the thread back to the top so more readers see it. Next trip I'm sure will be another $ saver, so this is excellent info. Some deals exist all the time, so if there are more posh camps anyone would like to go to, they should ask a TA, post here, or check mtbeds.co.za in case there's anything available for non SA citizens.
e-gnu.com also has a very comprehensive list (not as good as yours) with prices - I just don't know how accurate it is.
The only problem with the list is there is no way to evaluate guides and the safari experience. I know there's no way to do it, but if someone can help that would be great. We also need some recent feedback of the private reserves other than Sabi Sand to see if as the game reserves are aging (in a good way) if there is more wildlife as time goes on.
I use netbooks.co.za for African books. So many titles we can't get here, especially some of the local wildlife titles. DVD's don't work on US players. The shipping can be expensive, but since it's in ZAR it is still much less than you would expect. I adore the Alexander McCall Smith books. It's just great fluff. I also want to read Invictus and Long Walk to Freedom by Nelson Mandela. (he's my hero)
I loved Arathusa. I also thought it might be a better value than EP's higher end accommodations because their traversing rights are larger.
So I am trying to get this posting all organized for my personal use so all of the responses that have useful info in them are included. It's a great list and great feedback!! Then I can add other countries/areas as time goes on. Thanks again.
Agree with you christabir.
We need someone to become a roaming safari camp reporter for us. To spend say 3 months a year visiting South Africa safari camps and updating the camp info like you say. I volunteer our very own -atravelynn- for this!!!! So step up Lynn, take a curtsy and off you go!!!
The reason other countries DVDs don't work on USA players is the "region code"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DVD_region_code
Why region codes? More money for studios - so they think.
BTW, whether DVD is NTSC or PAL TV format makes no difference on the DVD players I've used.
Many DVD players can be hacked to become region free. Hacking usually involves using the DVD remote to enter a string of digits. Here's a web site that provides code entries for many DVD players. There are other similar web sites.
http://www.videohelp.com/dvdhacks
regards - tom
ps - if you have a DVD that is the wrong region for you, I can/will make a copy for you that is region free. email me.
Trophy hunting! Are these substantiated claims that trophie hunting is taking place on these reserves?
Hi Penny,
For Sabi Sands and Manyeleti I am sure hunting is forbidden.
For other game reserves around Kruger it is often not so clear.
I found at least one hunting business in Timbavati after 2 mins on Google. Idem with Klaserie.
But you should not dismiss these reserves because of that. By doing so, you are achieving the exact opposite of what we all want. We'd put safari-operators out of business, and more would be compelled to start a hunting business.
Things are going the right way; eco-tourism is on the way up. Like Klaserie GR for example; there's at least a big part of it where some lodges have formed some sort of reserve-in-reserve and where it is again strictly forbidden to hunt: the focus is 100% on eco tourism. We all need to support this trend!
Ciao,
J.
Tom-
Yeah! Let's send atravelynn. I'll tag along if she wants the company. If I win megamillions tonight I'll even foot the bill.
Thanks for the info on DVD's. I just thought they were in a different format. I didn't buy any for that reason.
Penny-
Unfortunately I don't think there is anywhere that animals live that is 100% trophy hunting free. For some reason that I don't understand, we like to shoot things. Just do the best you can to find locations that reflect your values. Remember no game reserves would exist without hunting - it's how they all got their start.
Safari Club International is an organization of trophy hunters. Their January 2010 convention in Reno had a large number of exhibitors vying for this business. For those of you who wish to do more research on this topic, go to SCI Convention web site.
http://www.showsci.com/content/index.cfm?action=view&content_id=1703
boudecca
Planning a trip to Southern Africa July, August, Sept 2010. Does anyone have any comments on the Kruger rest camps booked through sanparks.org? I am thinking of trying a blend of lodges recommended by pixelpower as well as a couple of Kruger rest stops for a self drive.
boudecca
I booked our stay at the restcamps on line from the US. It was very easy and the accommodations were as described. We rented a small SUV at the Johannesburg airport and drove to Kruger by way of God's Window and Kiekman's Kamp. We stayed at Satara and Lower Sabie in April.
The restcamps were very nice especially considering how cheap they were. The rooms were clean and in good condition. The camps, over all, were nice and the food options were OK and not over priced given that your options are so limited, plus you can cook for yourself if you plan for it.
We really enjoyed Kruger and would go back in a heart beat. It was a wonderful experience, one of the best we had on our four country visit to Africa!...If you want to see pictures and read the daily report of our tme in Kruger go to our trip report:
www.aroundtheworldin132days.blogspot.com
click on April and scroll down to March 30.
boudecca,
I've stayed at most of the Kruger rest camps in the southern end of the park--Pretoriuskop, Skukuza, Lower Sabie, Berg-en-Dal, Crocodile Bridge, Tamboti (the satellite camp of Orpen) and Satara. As cwn said above, I have found them to be very clean and for the most part in good repair.
Of the camps I've stayed in, I like Tamboti the best. The camp is small for a Kruger camp, and quiet. I also like Lower Sabie very much because it is in the middle of one of the best places to see lots of animals. Satara is also in a great location for animals. I've also had some one-of-a-kind sightings just outside of Skukuza camp (e.g., wild dogs), but the camp itself is very big and it gets too crowded. Still, I've always stayed there at least one night--it's been worth it to me.
I like the "safari tent" options the best. They are basic but still comfortable. I really enjoy being able to hear the night sounds; you can't really do that as well in the Kruger bungalows. Not every rest camp has the safari tent option; of those that do, I've liked the Lower Sabie and Tamboti tents the best.
Some of the other camp highlights that come to mind:
--Pretoriuskop has lots of resident impala that basically live inside the camp;
--Berg-en-Dal camp is at the base of the southern mountains and is more ruggedly scenic;
--Lower Sabie is 2 minutes away from Sunset Dam, where there are large numbers of hippos;
--Skukuza is 5 minutes away from a birdwatching hide situated on Lake Panic. This is one of the most beautiful places in the entire park!
--Tamboti supposedly has a resident honey badger that roams the camp at dusk, but I have not seen it.
Hope this helps.
Oh, one more thing, just to add my voice to the great experience one can have in Kruger National Park.
We had a regular 2-wheel drive small SUV rental. Someone had mentioned that we might be able to see more in the SUV, so we when that way, but it was not really high off the ground like the one I drive at home. We drove on every road we found both paved and gravel, went over low water crossings and stopped at the areas set aside to get out of the car and walk around. We did not feel hemed in by the windows and got pictures as good as those on the jeep safaris. We never had a problem with the roads. Yes, the gravel roads were rough in a few places, but you are doing 10-20 miles/hour looking for and at animals. It was wonderful. We saw many, many animals both on the paved and gravel roads. Most of the time we had the animal sightings to ourselves, especially if we were on a gravel road. Several times on the jeep safaris we had to leave a sighting because there were other jeeps trying to see or there were just too many at the sighting.
We had never been on a safari before this trip. We did three different safaris on our trip to South Africa and Tanzania, first we went in a camp vehicle in Kirkmans Kamp in Sabi Sands then on a self drive in Kruger National Park and finally a private driver in Tanzania to Manyara, Serengeti, and Ngorongoro Crater.
All the safaris were great, but after the fact, we much prefer and enjoyed the self drive in Kruger and the privetae safari in Tanzania much more than being two of five in a jeep at Kirkmans Kamp, even though the Kirkmans Kamp was a good experience and we had a great leapord and cub sighting.
In fact, we enjoyed the self drive the most and hope to return for a longer visit to Kruger sometime. We enjoyed the hunt and then being able to stay as long as we wanted with the animal/s on our Kruger safari. There were no more crowds around the sightings in Kruger than any where else and we were as close to the animals as we were on the other two safaris.
Look at our pictures from all three safaris and see what I mean...go to our trip report:
www.aroundtheworldin132days,blogspot.com
click on April go down to April 29 scroll up to April 13 for the three different visits.
Sorry that should be
www.aroundtheworldin132days.blogspot.com
cwn - says "There were no more crowds around the sightings in Kruger than any where else and we were as close to the animals as we were on the other two safaris."
Most unusual, you were very lucky in Kruger. For example, we have been in Kruger three times in three years (last time Sep 2009) for total of 14 days. We never saw a leopard until once on out last visit. We have seen lions about 8 times but not until last visit close up and active. And then there were around 12-15 cars jamming the road. We have -never- seen rhino there. But we still love Kruger and will go back. However, if it is big five sightings per game drive hour and good photography positioning you're after, a private camp beats Kruger 25 to 1. IMHO.
regards - tom
Wow Tom, you've never seen rhino there?! I'm surprised! There have been days where I've seen close to twenty rhinos around Lower Sabie. We went on a guided "early morning drive" run by SANParks and saw so many rhinos that we didn't even stop to look at them anymore. We also saw 3 cheetahs on that drive.
Leopards are hard to see there. I've only seen one (again on a SANParks-guided "sunset drive" at Lower Sabie). I think that's one good reason to visit a private reserve, they seem to always know where to find leopards.
Ah, see, I've never been to Lower Sabie. Just the central area, Mopani, Letaba, Olifants, Satara. I've heard also there are more lions in Lower Sabie. Never seen cheetah either. The big thing private camps have going, in addition to prime location, is going off road and radio with other guides.
regards - tom
Cary, maybe we were lucky, but we did really enjoy being on our own in Kruger. We saw many animals during the three days.
We saw a group three rhino, one of the group within 15 feet of our car on the second day. Later that day, nearer to Lower Sabie we saw some more in the distance.
The first two days were better, more sightings, but we had a great encounter with Cape Buffalo on the third day along with a couple of neat photo ops.
We didn't see any leopard in Kruger and only saw them at a distance in the Serengeti. We didn't see any cheetah or wild dogs anywhere.
The only "crowd" we incountered in Kruger was at a two hour old lion kill that we passed. We heard about the lion kill when we stopped at one of the lunch areas. When we got there, it was a giraffe down in the middle of the gravel road with four lions that we could see. The whole thing was totally blocking the road, so everyone was making a large loop through the grass to get around the kill. That was the only crowd we had it. It was four cars and us.
In the Serengeti, we had other safari groups crowd us at several sighting and at Kirkmans we had to leave our leapord and cub sighting because another group came and disturbed the mother.
At Kirkman they did make an effort to show us the big five since that is what the other couple was asking for. I did enjoy the camp drives and it was nice to go "off road" for sure. We also were able to off road, like that in the Ngorongoro area.
It is a good thing that there are all types of safari experiences. Everyone has their own idea of what would make a perfect safari for them. We enjoyed our different experiences and would go on a private safari or a self drive in Kruger again in a heart beat. I would think a little longer about a camp/group drive setup, but not too much longer.
Here's a wonderful resource for a self drive in Kruger.
Guide Your Own Safari, a 248 page, e-book authored by Bruce Whittaker.
Not only do the Whittakers provide insider knowledge based on many personal experiences at Kruger, they will also answer questions on routings, the plusses and minuses of different camps inside Kruger AND will also do your bookings for you at no additional cost to you.
Wilma has spent hours answering my questions and for that I am truly grateful as she has saved me days of research. She is truly a gem.
More information can be found at this web site
http://african-safari-journals.com
Good luck with planning your adventures through Kruger.
Sorry for being so dense, but why can I not find any info about MalaMala on the sa-venues.com site?
People like Craig should be able to answer this, as they have an inside view into the business. I assume MM is not marketed by SA-V as MM has a direct business link with some other operator, but I'm not sure.
B.regs,
J.
Kruger park is one of the best and safest place for Safari in SA. Afternoon time is the best time for the safari when most of the animals take a nap during the heat of the day.
Great information. Thanks. Keeping for future reference.