I recently returned from my first trip to the Masai Mara and wanted to provide a bit of a report and some photos. In a nutshell, though, what a wonderful, magical place it is!!
I had a long-standing reservation at the Fairview, which I was anxious to stay in because of all the good things I’d heard. When I came to check in (12:30 am, after 30 hrs of travel) I was told the hotel was overbooked and I was being sent to the Country Lodge, a sister hotel. The Country Lodge was fine: quiet, clean, if a bit sterile, and a good value for the price. Still, when you’ve made your reservation months in advance the expectation is that it would be kept. I left a note to that effect with the management, who later explained that the person in my room decided to stay longer. (?? on that)
I encountered a weight restriction problem for the first time in my Africa travels. SafariLink limits luggage to 15 kg, which my photo backpack alone weighed, and in this case they decided to weigh everything I had. After a bit of discussion, SafariLink charged me a nominal price (<$20) for my other luggage, so it worked out just fine.
In the Masai Mara, I stayed at Governors (G, 3 nights), Little Governors (LG, 1 night) and Kichwa Tembo (KT, 3 nights). I felt comfortable in the tents at each location. There was no problem with insects, the tents sealed tightly and the beds were comfortable. The hot water worked in each of the tents, so showering went well. The food in all camps was good. LG may have had an edge among the 3 camps because it has less tents, sits on a marsh that had a fair amount of game, and offers that small adventure of crossing the river with the aid of a ferryman. In summary, I would not hesitate returning to any of the camps.
The game-viewing was good at each location (I just miscalculated the dates for the migration for seeing a crossing, though I did get to see a very, very small zebra crossing when at KT). One thing I didn’t like is that the cars I rode in at G and LG sat 5 people: 1 next to driver, 2 in each of the next 2 rows. I got stuck in the front seat twice in 8 game drives. Although the back two rows were uncovered, the front seat is covered (metal, not canvas) so you can’t stand up to shoot as you can in the other two rows, which was a bit of a problem. If it were possible to stand in the front, being in the front wouldn’t have mattered to me.
I had a little annoyance at G. G had a large group who were fairly noisy and my tent was the closest of all the tents to the bar. It’s the first and only time I experienced noise in the bush---for all 3 nights I was there. Luckily I had some earplugs that drowned out most of the chatter and on at least one night I could focus on the competing chomping noises that hippos made outside my tent.
KT turned out to be really great, partly, perhaps, because the camp was not more than ½ full, if that. The staff is typical of other &Beyond properties, doting on you to make sure you’re comfortable. The tents were maybe a bit smaller than those at G and LG, but I thought the furnishings were perhaps a tad nicer, typical of the way they furnish some other of their lodges (I had a luxury tent primarily so I could charge all my electronics there; the luxury tents are also a bit more private than the Classic tents). And finding a hot water bottle in bed when returning from dinner was a nice touch. My tent was #39 and required a taxi (or a golf cart) to get to but the walk was OK. From my tent I faced right out to a fence, which no doubt would be off-putting to many. But beyond the fence were zebra, buffalo, and giraffe. For first-time visitors to Africa, the fence might actually feel comforting. The tents are also situated in a fairly dense forest area, more so than G and LG. I thought that was actually pretty cool. (I also did a little tour of KT to look at the ‘Classic’ tents. The Classic tents seemed like an excellent budget option and I would not hesitate to stay in one.)
Below is a link to some photos. Best viewing is to hit the "Slideshow" button and then F11 for full screen. Sorry for the cheesy narration, which was mostly meant for family and friends who have never been to Africa.
http://picasaweb.google.com/sbrynes1/ScenesFromTheMasaiMara?authkey=Gv1sRgCMbWmoLa196quAE#
First Time in Masai Mara-Short Report and Some Photos
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Your photos are lovely - I am envious of your bird sightings. Robin
Nice report.
I like your pictures ,never saw a LBRoller on top of an animal before and Ross Turaco neither!!
Thanks for sharing.
Your photos are spectacular. Thank you for sharing.
I love the one of the playful lion cub.
Great slideshow! Thanks.
Thanks for sharing. You are really a talented photographer as the birds were stunning (believe me, I know how hard it is to take photos of birds). Could you let me know what your equipment consisted of?
Thanks again.
Deb
Thanks all for the comments so far!
Robin, you know how it is, I went five days not seeing too much and then, boom, lots of bird sightings during the last two days especially.
PacoAhedo, getting that semi-sharp pic of the Turaco was quite the challenge. It's like those birds are hyperactive, flitting from branch to branch mostly in the upper reaches of fairly tall trees---I can't tell you how many perfectly blurry photos I have of them.
one2travel2, thank you! I like Canon, so I used a 100-400 mm IS L lens with the 40D body for most shots. If not that lens, I used a 70-200 F4 IS L lens (I really love this particular lens for sharpness and color and can't say enough good things about it---probably my favorite).
Steve
SDB, really enjoyed your pics - I never get tired of looking at anyone's photos of the Mara and you did an especially good job with the birds; one thing I rarely catch before they alight!
Loved the giraffes and cheetahs - well actually all of them!
Thanks!
MoneyB
Loved the photos. I have a more specific photo question. Did you use a polarizer filter much for your shots? I also shoot with the Canon 100-400 IS lens too(love it). Found I used the filter a lot to help with contrast of the sky. Wondered if you did as I'm always anxious to learn more tips.
Gorgeous photos! Thanks for sharing them.
Will be staying @ KT, June 2011, but in classic tents. Sounds lile I should ask for a lower tent#!
Laurie52 and moneyburns, Thanks!
Laurie52, I used to use polarizing filters quite a bit when I did more landscape shots, particularly to give the sky a deep, rich blue color or to reduce glare from objects. But polarizing filters reduce the amount of light entering the camera, forcing one to use longer exposures, which in turn increases the risk of camera-shake. I'm challenged enough with the 100-400 attached holding heady with just a skylight or uv filter (which don't change the exposure) on it. So, when I'm most interested in capturing wildlife, when something can happen at almost any time, I prefer not to use a polarizer.
KathBC, thanks! and your comment made me laugh! A competitor of Fodor's says "The best-positioned tents are actually the "classic" tents arranged along the edge of the forest facing a wide lawn and the vast plains beyond (there are 14 of these and worth requesting)." BTW, my guide's name is Eric and he was outstanding. Steve
sdb2
Thanks for your reply. I know what you mean about the challenge of holding that lens. My last trip, I took an inexpensive wrist brace and wore it on my left hand, which is typically the hand that supports the lens weight for me. I found it helped a lot. I normally use a skylight but between the bright sun and haze/dust, I was using the polarizer most of the time. Was contemplating taking a monopod the next time. Your comment about the luggage weight restrictions is why I have only traveled by vehicles between locations. My carry on bag runs about 32 pounds just with camera gear, 1 change of clothes and a couple of other necessities.
Laurie52, I'm glad the brace worked for you. With that lens we need all the help we can get. I have a monopod but never brought it along. Some people have told me they thought it helped, but I'm a big fan of the bean bag and use one as much as possible. Still it doesn't help if you're in a car with fidgety people. On this last trip I was with several couples who all were on their first trips to Africa, either for anniversary or honeymoon, and they were so excited they hardly ever sat still. It really made the thought of a private car all the more inviting. Steve
sdb2
Those fidgety people can be a challenge. I ran into a situation with someone in my vehicle (6 travelers total) who told the driver we didn't have to stop and take any more photos of elephants because he had 10 shots. I'm guessing by that point, I probably had 150. Luckily our tour director saw my frustration and spoke to the driver. It was for reasons like that I traveled solo the last time and had the entire vehicle to myself. I'm not sure I could ever go back to the group situation.
That sounds great, Laurie52. Budget-wise, did going solo add a significant amount to the cost that you would have incurred if you'd gone to camps and joined others in the camp vehicle?
The solo trip was almost double what the group tour was. However, that being said, the group tour was 17 days (4 of which were travel) and the solo trip was 21 days (and travel time was only 3 days total). The group trip was all overland too (same vehicles and drivers for the Kenya portion and then switching in Tanzania). It's hard to compare the cost vs going to the same places and joining others since I was with the same vehicle and driver the entire trip. Great way to get to know the person, culture, etc. The solo trip was also a little unusual because even though I knew the places I was staying, I was constantly getting upgraded due to the fact they were not totally full and the fact that my driver knew a lot of the managers. Even without the upgrades, it was really worth being able to go out whenever I wanted, stay in particular areas until I had taken enough photos (took 5700 on the trip) and really observe the behavior of the animals.
Nice report and great pictures.
Me too !!... I am jealous of all your bird pictures.
Thanks, Percy!
Thanks for the info, Laurie52. I've been lucky enough on several occasions to be the only one in a car and it's photographer's heaven. Your last thought about being able to stay with and observe the behavior of the animals is exactly what someone from Nat'l Geo recently told me. The photographer added that being able to observe the animals helps them in anticipating good shots.
Steve
I really enjoyed both your report and your fantastic pictures!
I've been putting off doing my report because I didn't make detailed notes of all the what's, where's and how many, and all those bits, but your trip report was short and to the point and your style is exactly what I needed to read.
You are really a wonderful photographer, and your lenses are fabulous! I loved looking at your shots. They would look great on your wall or printed into a nice book.
Thanks so much!
Thanks for those very kind comments, tinydancer! I'll look forward to seeing your report. Steve
Incredible photos. I'm ready to go back!
Thanks, samcat ! I'm ready too!! Steve
Beautiful pictures - lots of different birds than what we saw....I love your captioning as well
"I encountered a weight restriction problem for the first time in my Africa travels. SafariLink limits luggage to 15 kg, which my photo backpack alone weighed, and in this case they decided to weigh everything I had. After a bit of discussion, SafariLink charged me a nominal price (<$20) for my other luggage, so it worked out just fine."
Soooo glad to hear this as I've been having nightmares about the weight restriction. If $20 is all they'll charge I can live with that rather than live without something that had to be left behind!
renoduck, thanks!
KathBC, I included the weight issue to help reduce angst of those who know they are going to exceed the 15 kg limit. I'd never before had my photo backpack weighed, but maybe this time it had a bursting-at-the-seams look. At first, SafariLink people asked me to reduce the weight, which we all soon realized wasn't going to happen. They then said they'd charge me for the extra 15 kg weight at 1500 Kshs (the excess was designated on the invoice as 'Freight' rather than 'Excess Baggage'---I have no idea if there was any significance to that). I was very relieved and satisfied with the outcome.
That's great to hear Steve! I'll obviously try my best to keep the weight down but won't sweat it as much if I just can't quite make it.
I am following all this !
Looked at the pictures again, never tired of looking at Safari pictures.
Like the others,I am ready to go back .
I'm with you, Percy. Normally, after a 29-hr marathon getting overseas (bad connections/flight delays), the daily regimen of getting up a bit earlier than usual, spending most of the day out, then eating and getting to sleep a bit later than usual, and a 33-hr marathon getting home (bad connections), I need a couple weeks at least to start thinking about heading back. But the Mara had me thinking immediately of going back---what a great, great place! Steve
I know what you mean.
The loooong flight home from Kenya to Amsterdam to the west coast of North America, was gruesome ,even with a day break in Amsterdam, it was still touring.
But at least I had a rest by going to Zanzibar for a full 5 days after the Safari.
Yep, there is no place like the Mara and Serengeti.
Sdb - I am with you on immediately going back, but sure wish they'd do something about the Nairobi airport. The worst part of our trip was arriving (very early) and finding out we would have to wait 5 hours as one of the crew called in sick (Probably still in the Mara)
I hated that airport and swore I'd never go back because of it (totally packed; no place to sit until I finally scored a seat in the restaurant!) Of course as soon as we landed in AMS, I forgot all about that situation and said, OK. when do we go back?
Percy - I just went back and re-read your trip report. Hilarious; but quite meticulous reporting -I would have flunked your pop quiz. Did you ever post any pics?
I am so totally in withdrawal.
Percy, during a trip to the Serengeti I met a British couple who were going on to Zanzibar. I touched base with them afterward to see how it all went. The wife's answer was so great I stored it away. She said it was "so relaxing we were positively horizontal. Horizontal reading books, horizontal snorkelling over the reef - and what a revelation that was, and horizontal snoozing between times. Vertical to make our way to the beach bar and dining room!" So, stopping in Zanzibar sounds like the thing to do.
moneyburns, I'm so with you about NBO. I sat there for 5 hrs (I felt lucky to find a seat and just stayed put), no where to go really, nothing to do (other than watch the same people walking back and forth aimlessly or watch hordes of people deplaning and passing by you). And stuffy!!---I was schvitzing like an Airedale (to quote Tony Kornheiser). In the end, small price to pay.
Steve
sdb2:
Yes, the downtown in Zanzibar was great and if people have the time and the money..it is worth it for sure.
Nothing like having pool time and a beer when it is 95F.
Yep, the Nairobi Airport is not the greatest place to relax!
moneyburns:
I did not post pictures but some Fodorites did e-mail me and I sent then about 30-40 pictures over several e-mails.
Percy, Ok, no pics --but your trip report more than made up for it. So glad I went back and re-read it; my memory from '09 was not retained through '10. And it really made me laugh which I always need and appreciate. You must have been a teacher at some point!
Steve, although I absolutely hated NBO (I know it has a legit name that starts wit a J, but that memory problem also exists with airport names) ...so I WILL go back, but perhaps i will carry on a small beach chair to sit in. LOL
MB
MB, great idea! I'm envisioning a little beach umbrella too, which will totally ensure we'll know it's you in case we're there at the same time!
Thanks moneyburns and I just read your report and looked at ALL your pictures ........very nice.
) try to squeeze in some days in Zanzibar.
You know once you have been on a Safari , you never get tired of looking at other's pictures.
The Nairobi Airport, for sure is small and seems crammy, but I did like the City of Nairobi.
In fact I came days earlier before the actual Safari ,just to see some of the places in Nairobi.
When you go again (not IF you go again
Good Night all
Speaking of Nairobi airport has anyone seen the Diana Carmichael merchandise at the Maya Duty Free??
Or know the best place in Nairobi to pick some up?
Comment has been removed by Fodor's moderators
I'm working up to the trip report. Promise. I don't want to do it until I've thoroughly organized photos, which I decided to do over completely and am halfway through the daunting task.
We got stuck in NBR 7 hours and survived. Luckily we had seats. We had planned to go to a restaurant near the airport, but DH had tummy upset, so we just hung out. I was surprised not to feel miserable as the shops were 'interesting'. We got a copy of the National Audubon Society Field Guide to East Africa in a bookstore, which he really was looking for (it is fantastic and I'd suggest everyone going on Safari bring a copy with you, but it's cheaper from Amazon.) I bought a one week old IHT with a piece about Joaquin Phoenix not being crazy after all which I was thrilled about, so was glad it was an old copy.