After several subtle hints from fellow Fodorites, finally I will attempt to put into words the most fabulous experience of my life. I a 47 year old mother of three who grew up watching Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kindgom, Hatari, Born Free, etc. I have felt drawn to Africa from as far back as I can remember, yet never allowed myself to truly consider going until one day I finally verbalized my intense desire to my sister (who lives in the Midwest), I am on the SE coast. After talking with her and hearing her say..."Let's go", I was off and searching the web for as much information as I could possibly absorb about safaris. I kept coming back to one website, that being Thomson's Safaris and realized I could research this thing to death and never get anything done, or I could take a leap of faith, make a decision and book a safari. I booked in April of 2005 for a March 2006 safari in Tanzania. By the way, I didn't become a Fodor's addict until the fall of 2005.
Itinerary:
Classic Camping Safari:
Mountain Village Lodge, Arusha (one nite)
Tarangire Classic Camp (2 nights)
Gibb's Farm (one night)
Ngoronforo Classic Camp (2 nights)
Serengeti Lodge (1 night)
Serengeti Wildlife Camp (2 nights)
Mt. Meru Hotel (day room)
I could write volumes about the wonderful anticipation leading up to March 17, but will begin that morning. I remember opening my eyes, heart thundering in my chest and thinking ....I AM GOING TO AFRICA TODAY!!! Well, that was almost true! My sister and I met up in Logan airport only to discover our flight on NW to Amsterdam was delayed 24 hours, yes 24 HOURS! AUGH....we were SO disappointed, yet the excitement was afresh the next morning. I was worried about flying coach all that way, but must say we lucked out and were able to find enough empty seats so we could both stretch out. Our luck held with the flight from AMS to Kilimanjaro as well. Truly, it seemed like we were there in the blink of an eye. We were met at the airport around 9:30 p.m. by Willie, our guide. We loved our room and surroundings at Mountain Village Lodge, but it was a bit blurry as we were indeed very tired.
Now, to the safari. Let me preface this by saying part of my hesitation in writing this report is wondering how in the world I can put into words all that I had experienced. Understand this report will not do it justice, there just aren't words adequate, but I will give it my best shot.
We drove through Arusha the next morning on our way to Tarangire. Oops, need to back up just a bit here. I emailed Thomson's a few days before we left to see how many would be joining us, and when she told me it would just be me and my sister I couldn't believe it. We had booked a group safari, but were getting a private one!!!! Okay, back to Tarangire. First off, this park was beautiful. I will show my stupitidy here, I thought Africa would be one giant flat dust bowl! The beauty of the country would continue to astound me. Just inside the park gates I fly up out of my seat and exclaim "Elephants!" I knew I was going to Africa, and knew I would see animals, yet that first sighting was thrilling. To see these animals in their natural surroundings is such a treat. Impala and gazelles were never high on my list at zoo visits, yet seeing these beautiful creatures running, leaping, playing was fantastic. We also saw our first giraffe in Tarangire. We especially loved the giraffe. We would come around a bend and there they would be. Each and every one of them would stop (in mid chew)..and look at us as if to say "Hey, whatcha doing"? We continued thru the park making our way to camp and spotted baboons, warthogs, and one female lion in the distance. We were met in camp by our 8 attendants! This was a bit daunting, and were relieved when a family of 5 showed up a little while later. I never expected the amount of care we were to receive.
We slept on thick mattresses with luxurious linens, lulled to sleep by the sounds of Africa! I slept like a rock and missed all the goings on during the night. Apparently the vervet monkeys were playing a bit noisly near camp. The next night was to bring a bit more excitement that even I couldn't sleep thru, but I'll get to that in a minute.
We spent the entire next day on a game drive in the park , all the while enjoying the wonders around each bend in the road. I honestly didn't feel like I was in Africa yet, just not how I picuted it and I also think my senses were bombarded and only able to absorb so much. Around 4 p.m we arrive back in camp, met with warm, wet towels and juice. We adjourned to our tent to sit on the veranda. Our tent was placed next to a very dry, large riverbed. Sitting, relaxing we begin to hear thunder in the distance and we spot an elephant on the hill, just on the other side of the riverbed. The thunderstorm builds and we are forced inside the tent for about an hour. After the storm we venture back out on the veranda. Suddenly we notice the same elephant has now moved much closer to camp, but still remains on the other side of the riverbed. We watch, he saunters over to his side of the edge of the bed, he walks down into the bed and starts heading across. We get up out of our seats, as does the family in the next tent, to observe the elephant. As we are gathered together, watching him we look over our shoulders to see our staff of 8 quickly approaching from down the road. We quickly realize they have a much more serious attitude about the approaching elephant than the American tourists do! Even though this elephant is walking very slowly across the riverbed right for us, he is covering ground very quickly. He then walks up our side of the bed, just down the road, crosses the road and walks into the trees. We can't believe how close he is and contiune to crouch behind tents, vehicles, etc., to observe. In the blink of an eye, he turns, heads down the road heading straight into camp, ears out and begins thundering toward us! I found out something about myself, yes indeed I still can run fast, if needed. We all piled into the vehicles as waited to see what would happen. Luckily we had a park ranger in camp with us, he fired a shot in the air and away the elephant went. This was such a bonding experience between campers and staff, we took a "post elephant incident" picture! What fun!
That night we fall into bed again, we laughed many times about how tired we were at the end of the day after doing absolutely nothing but being driven around all day. My sister said "I almost don't want to fall asleep, it is so much fun just listening to the sounds of Africa at night." Another storm came thru and the dry riverbed was filled with rushing water. Around 2 a.m. I am sound asleep one moment and eyes wide open, awake, heart pounding, and paralyzed the next. I literally couldn't move a muscle, afraid even to speak. My sister whispers..."Did you hear THAT?" It took me a moment, but finally in the quietest of whispers I say "YES." There was a hyena right, and I do mean right outside our tent. He had just announced himself vocally, and we could now hear him walking around. This is what I came for, I absolutely loved it!
That's all for today, more to follow....
Finally! My Trip Report Begins...Tanzania, March
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Thank you (as I sit back, relax and begin to read) -
Sounds marvelous!
Waiting for my own first safari in less than 2 months now - like you arranged a year ago.
Looking forward to the continuation of your experience very much!
Teri - Incredible - I felt as if I was right there with you watching that elephant. I've read how dangerous they can be and run if you see their ears flapping! Wow - exciting huh?
Hyena...sounds of Africa...keep it coming!
Great start! Keep it coming!
I don't know about doing it justice but you have me on the edge of my seat! Can't wait to read more! I'm going away for a week probably without internet access so am going to have to wait until I get back for more!
Thank you thank you and more please!
A great start! I remember our first trip we jumped out of our seats and screamed "zebra!" at our first sighting
What happened to your flight, weather delay? Were you originally scheduled to fly in a day early? It doesn't sound like you missed any part of your safari.
Great that you lucked out and ended up with a private safari. The elephant encounter sounded like an adrenaline rush. Can't wait for more!
Patty, I still do that! Although admittedly generally it's only for the first zebra of the day. Each day.
What can I say? The pleasure just doesn't diminish! 
The beauty of a tent, I doubt you'd get hyenas scrabbling at your bedroom door in a lodge...
My first few minutes in the Mara we were snapping pictures of zebra and wildebeest like crazy. Or guide told us that by the end of the day we will have seen so many of them we won't care anymore... 2 weeks later they were still great to see.
But the first sighting of a family of elephnts just walking along on the Mara was simply breathtaking. Yes after years of seeing elephants in tiny areas in zoos, to see a family of 15 just walking along on a sunny morning was unbeatable!
It makes you feel they should never be at zoos again!
Which leads me to want to post a follow up as a new post.
Patty,
As far as why our flight was delayed 24 hours...good question. We arrived in Boston around noon, up until 8 p.m. they kept telling us the plane was still in Amsterdam with mechanical difficulies, but would be heading back for us soon! Finally they put us up in a hotel that night. Only when I returned home did I find out that NW had called my home around noon (same time I am trying to check in at Boston)spoke w/my husband and told him the flight was cancelled. NW agents were being extreemly tight lipped, and we really don't know what happened. Our travel insurance does not pay for trip interruption/delay if it is due to mechanical difficulties.
Our first day would have been a visit to a small rural village on the slopes of Mt. Meru and another night at Mt. Village.
At the time, it was very frustrating, but in the grand scheme of things it mattered little.
Now, on with the story....
We are still in Tarangire...it is 2 a.m., we are wide awake, both needing to go to the bathroom and both scared to go alone.This may sound silly, but the sound produced by that hyena was chilling to say the least, so two grown women head to the bathroom glued to one another. Our bathroom is attached to the back of our tent with a small breezeway in between. We are only 2 zippers and a few feet from the bathroom, and it is totally enclosed in canvas, yet we go together, trying desperately to keep our laughter down to a whisper so as not to alert the hyena. When we both leave the sleeping portion and enter the breezeway my sister says.."look up". Hyena, what hyena...the stars! Oh, what a beautiful sight. This wasn't a planetarium, it was real. The previous night it had rained and couldn't see the stars and earlier this evening it was cloudy as well, so what a wonderful, unexpected surprise. This was to be my first of many experiences I think people refer to when they say Africa will be life changing. Oh, yes there is indeed more to life than jobs, houses, cars, The Gap and Burger King.
Wednesday morning we head for Gibbs Farm. We stop at a shopping center for souviners and I made the mistake of buying too much, thinking I wouldn't have the opportunity again. Later I learned all the lodges have wonderful shops with much better prices. Oh well, live and learn. We arrive at Gibbs in time for lunch. Again I was astounded at the beauty of this place! It was from Gibbs that I sent my first email home. I so vividly remember sitting on the terrace in front of that computer, writing to my family and feeling a bit like Dorothy in Oz. The staff at Gibbs were outstanding (and here again, words just don't do justice). It is here, with a wonderful man named Richard that I begin to pick up on something Africans do differently than Americans upon greeting someone, but I can't quite put my finger on it. I begin to feel as if I am doing something wrong, yet these very respectful, gracious people aren't going to point it out to me, I must learn it on my own....and I do, a bit later. This is a good time to mention how much our attempts at Swahili were appreciated. Our guide taught and encouraged us along the way. I would have studied my swahili phrases a bit more had I known. Since we are touching on the language a bit I'll mention that every morning in camp you are gently awoken to the sound of "jambo, jambo"...I've tried and tried, but my husband just won't do it! Truly, what a wonderful way to start the day!
We spent one night at Gibbs and stayed for a hike to an elephant mineral lick the next morning. By far camps were our favorite accommodations, but boy does a nice long hot shower feel good every once in awhile!
As we bump along on teeth rattling roads leading into the crater I am wondering if it could possibly be all that I have expected. The first glimpse was breathtaking, and once it finally opened up in front of me it seemed surreal. There were many times on safari I found myself thinking...am I really seeing this! We head for camp, this one in a thick forest, unlike the openess of the first. Very different surrounding, new staff, same tents. We notice our tents are placed much closer together, almost uncomfortably so...especially when dashing to and from the shower with nothing but a towel wrapped around you. We have a Massai Warrior in camp, and we enquire about the closeness of the tents as well as "Mr. Kebe" and are told both are for our protection. Protection from what I ask? Are there lions lurking in those trees? We are told we are being protected from the Massai, whose land we are camping on. Apparently there have been problems with theft, so Mr. Kebe stays awake all night so we can sleep soundly. From time to time we do see Massai herding their cattle through the trees. Again, part of the adventure. Due to the closeness of the tents we (my sister and I) had to keep our giggling down at night, but of course knowing this made it all the harder to do so. What fun we had.
We head out for our first descent to the crater floor and once we land on solid ground are speechless. We are in the land that time forgot! Everywhere you look there are animals of one species or another. What fun to see all the youngsters leaping, running, playing. We come upon a large pride of lions having an afternoon nap (lions do alot of napping). We immediately comment on how beautiful their coats are and how much healthier they appear than the lions in zoos. I don't know what it is about cats, but it was especially thrilling each time we came upon them. Most of the animals we encountered showed atleast some sort of interest in us or another. Lions, just like my house cats had such an attitude. Often times they would be passed out and wouldn't so much as twitch an ear when we sat staring thru the lens of our cameras waiting for a great shot. I especially loved the "looks" we got from many of them, as if to say...Ugh, more people, why can't they just leave us alone. I loved the cats! After an our afternoon drive we head back up to our camp. Thundershowers passed over earlier, the roads are rutted, muddy and we learn VERY slippery. We did just shy of a 360 degree turn. WOW! By the time I realized I might perhaps be a bit scared, it was over and we rocked back into place. Our guide felt terrible, and it was then we realized how very much we trusted this man. A bit about our guide, or perhaps guides in general? Willie was a very traditional African man, and I must admit I was a bit uncomfortable at first. We met one of the other guides early on in our first camp, he was much friendlier, easier to understand, more outgoing, etc., and I began to wish we had him instead. My sister and I discussed this and we realized the other guide was simply more Americanized. It wasn't long before I realized what a gem we had in Willie. You spend your days in the vehicle with your guide and eat every meal with them as well. He took his job very seriously, and to him that meant keeping us safe, showing us his beautiful country and all it had to offer, and educating us along the way. By the end of the journey I had learned so much about respect and honor from this man, but we as well had rubbed off on him a bit. Our final evening spent dining in camp had him clutching his napkin to his mouth trying to contain his laughter. The cultural exchanges would be my second item that falls under the category of life changing. And I thought I was just going to see some animals!
The crater was amazing, my expectations were exceeded by leaps and bounds. Watching lions vs. cape buffalo was fantastic...the buffalo won. Spotting our first cheetah, coming upon a beautifully maned lion passed out in the road, only to come back by 6 hours later to find he had only moved 10 feet! Ostrich, wildebeest, hyena, hippos, and on and on.
Saturday morning when we crossed the crater and began or ascent out to the Serengeti I began to feel sad, but quickly focused on how very fortuate I was to experience something so incredible.
Counting this is just the most marvelous trip report that I have ever read. You make it come alive! OH! I can't wait!!
Thank you, thank you, thank you !!!!!!!!!
countingdown,
It was a pleasure and a privilege to read such a passionately written trip report. You really seemed to soak up Africa and it was great to see your excitement pour out in your writing.
countingdown
Your trip report is WONDERFUL! You have managed to capture all the feelings I experienced and put them into words.From dreaming of Afica but never believing it will be a reality, to the giggling at night and the impact of the cultural experience (I also thought I was just going for the wildlife) Reading your report has triggered so many "flashbacks" that I am sitting her giggling about it all!
Thank you!
Lily
I know I'm smiling and reliving my own "first safari" experieince when reading trip reports from first-timers. They're so personal and honest. This is wonderful. Thanks.
Wonderful storytelling, Counting. I enjoyed every line. Thank you!
Countingdown,
What a perfect description of a first safari! Asante sana.
Great report!
I hope you know such reports save countless dollars in psychotherapy for those of us between trips.
Well, this has been a learning experience…I posted a lengthy part 3 early this morning only to find it never showed up. This time I will write elsewhere, cut and paste. If the other one shows up, please don’t sift through both. AUGH…Here goes AGAIN….
Saturday morning, after one long last look at the crater we begin our long journey to the Serengeti. I am experiencing a bit of weariness but am very excited at what the day may bring. I found the drives between camps to be very enjoyable, they are filled with all sorts of things I’ve never witnessed before. Massai dot the landscape, their brilliant reds and blues stand out on the barren landscape. We passed many children, very young children, standing by the side of the road waving, we waved back. Many of these children simply waved, others would wave and then quickly turn their wave into a palm’s up position, begging. It was sad to see and our guide did not seem pleased, we believed him to be embarrassed by this behavior. Today we were going to visit a Massai village, something I was very much looking forward to. Growing up my favorite movie was Hatari, and so vividly remember watching Dallas dance with the Warusha women and thinking (at 10 years of age) how wonderful that would be. I really had no idea what to expect, other than we were going for a visit. We pulled up next to the village, got out of the vehicle and the Massai began to parade directly in front of us, dancing, chanting, jumping. Fascinating! Once the dance ended the Massai women encircled us and brought us forward through the gate (branches) into their village. Just inside the gates the women gather even closer to us (us being the female tourists) and one woman places her necklace around my neck. I am trying desperately to absorb this, but I feel sensory overload coming on. I wanted to be able to take this all in, but it was so vastly foreign to me I found myself having a hard time. If they were close before now we just seem to be one, all packed tightly together. The woman whose necklace I am wearing is holding my left hand. I notice a shy, younger girl to my right and just before we begin the dance I extend my right hand to her. She hesitated briefly, her face lit up with a beautiful smile, we grasped hands and began to dance (jump). I was laughing so hard, just having fun, but also realizing these women are making fun of me. I couldn’t get that blasted necklace to go up and down anywhere near as good as they could. They are shouting at me, and I understand not a word of it, all the while all of us laughing. Just girls having fun! After we dance we are led (in a huddle) to one of their huts. All 5”2” of me has to crouch down to enter. Once inside we are seated on the bed, this being one bed made of cowhide for 5 family members! Guess privacy isn’t an issue for the Massai. We are in the smoke filled hut for just a few minutes, but long enough for my teensy bit of claustrophobia to kick in. I suddenly find myself wanting OUT. Once outside the hut we are herded to a fence adorned with beaded trinkets. Each person is trying to get you to buy their beads and it is difficult to focus due to their salesmanship efforts. I find some bracelets for my daughters and then decide I had had enough. I am SO surprised at my reaction to the visit, I posted on it earlier, and think perhaps now it was just too strong of an invasion on my personal space. We leave thru the gate and are directed to the school. I was disappointed, feeling it was a mock school for our benefit. I was able to snap some photos here and remember two beautiful young girls standing together. I tried to convey how beautiful I thought them to be. I later wondered if beauty mattered to these people, thinking perhaps other qualities might be more important to them. I doubt our anorexic Hollywood idols would be held in such high regard with the Massai. Hmmm, #3 in the life changing category. Once back in our vehicle I turned to my sister and said “So, did you enjoy your visit to Mars”? Truly, you might have well of plopped me down on another planet!
We stop at Olduvai/Oldupai Gorge on the way to our lodge, perhaps it was my weariness, or the sensory bombardment, but I wasn’t as awe struck as some. We now head out on rapidly deteriorating roads that seem to go on forever. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not unhappy, just a bit tired. We reach the entrance to the Serengeti and our guide tells us it is okay to pop out for a photo. As my sister is snapping a photo of me standing under the sign I again find myself thinking…am I really here? Did I truly dance with the Massai, am I in the Serengeti??
A very interesting and honest reaction to a totally different culture. I must admit that I was wondering about that. Thanks for being so open about a confusing situation.
Thanks for the great report...love your writing style.
Aloha!
Hello,
Wonderfully written and very evocative of Africa -- please continue!
Cheers,
Julian
Once we enter the Serengeti I ask Willie if we will get a chance to see the migration. As much as I have read about it I wondered, how fascinating can a bunch of wildebeest really be? Willie tells us we may see some of it en route to our lodge, and indeed we do see lots of wildebeest, but nothing compared to what we would experience tomorrow. We arrive at our lodge around 5, take nice long, hot showers, step out on our balcony overlooking a very peaceable kingdom, feeling relaxed and refreshed. We send our dirty laundry out and are excited at the thought of clean, fresh clothes! After dinner (buffet) we retire early for some much needed rest. Just a bit about the food….it was like Thanksgiving dinner every evening. What these people can do in camp over an open fire is incredible. The food was delicious and abundant!
The following morning I was happy to awake feeling revitalized and ready for more. Clean clothes, clean hair, lets go! We are heading for our final camp today , Willie tells us we will be pleasantly surprised, but offers no further hints. Our drive begins and once again we begin to see wildebeest, then more wildebeest and then suddenly we find ourselves in a sea of wildebeest. Willie turns the car off, we stand, and cannot believe what our eyes are seeing, our mouths are hanging open. The landscape is completely flat, you can see for miles in every direction, there isn’t another human being or vehicle in sight, but there are wildebeest everywhere, in every direction, as far as your eyes can see. I fell in love with these creatures, loved their calls, loved seeing the babies! How insignificant we felt, again, Africa did not disappoint. I have goosebumps running up and down my body just writing about this.. Obviously, life changing! We sit in silence for quite awhile, surrounded by these creatures, it is heavenly! I can’t remember every experiencing peace such as this. Finally we push on and just a bit further down the road we are once again surrounded, this time by Zebra. What a beautiful sight to behold.
We arrive in camp around 1:30 and are surprised to see very different looking tents, almost like something out of Arabia. We have sinks, with running water and lights! The tents are spacious and beautifully adorned. We meet our staff and once again I can’t get over the graciousness and ability to put people at ease these people have. With few exceptions most all of the African people we encountered spoke quietly, respectfully and had such a peacefulness about them. I am a well mannered person, yet all along felt I was lacking something in greetings. I finally got it…..sure, when we see somebody we know we say “hello, how are you”, but how about when you run in to the cleaners to pick up your laundry, don’t you just say “I’m here to pick up my shirts”…hope you are following me here. What they were doing differently was prefacing each meeting with a jambo, hello, welcome back, etc. I later learned from Willie that they find it rude just to walk up and start talking, that a greeting, or welcoming is always given before conversation begins. Sometimes its just the small things in life that make a difference. This one I carried home with me. Now, back to camp… the tents were impressive indeed, but you know what, we both agreed to liking our first camp the best. We rest, relax and listen to thunderstorms roll in. Around 4:30 we head out for a game drive. We have seen many lion along the way and one very distant cheetah, so our hopes are high for cats! It was almost as if we placed our order and a leopard was delivered. The leopard was in one tree and then we spot his kill in another. After about 15 minutes he decides to head back for dinner. We never saw an actual kill and I wasn’t really sure I wanted to, but watching this leopard eat was fascinating. I’m running out of adjectives here. Had Willie not said it was time to go, I think I would still be there watching that leopard. Just before falling asleep I thought I heard some lions calling each other, when I awoke my suspicions were confirmed others heard them as well. This was to be our last game viewing day and I remember standing up in the vehicle while thundering along the rutted roads and being so appreciative of all we had experienced. Willie knew we wanted to see a cheetah, so off in search we went. We drove for almost 3 hours with not a beast in sight! This may sounds boring, but not so…just driving along and soaking up the beautiful vastness was enough. I remember seeing my first kopje and immediately thinking….That’s where The Lion King begins!!! I was just about to resign myself to no cheetah, when what do we come upon but a cheetah stalking a reedbuck in the grass. After much lurking and stalking the cat finally makes a short lived attempt at a kill and then walks over to a fallen tree, steps up and begins to pose for the camera. That cheetah would sit in one position for several moments, stand for another few, and then turn as if letting us see all his good sides. It was great….I bet I have 75 pictures of that cheetah. After finally saying goodbye to the cheetah another leopard up a tree is spotted, so off we go for a look. Marvelous! Time to head back to our last night in camp. Dinner was spent in great conversation, and like I mentioned earlier we had Willie laughing into his napkin. Willie became so dear to us and I began to realize just how difficult goodbye was going to be.
I just got home from a long tiring day and was so excited to find another installment from you.
I can only hope our safari is half as thrilling as yours - waiting anxiously for more!
It is Tuesday, March 28, the day we are to leave this glorious place and we awaken with heavy hearts, yet anxious to get underway for the long trip home. We head to the airstrip around 7:45 (just about 1.5 miles away). Just outside of camp we come upon a pride of 8 gorgeous lions, what a perfect farewell. We arrive at the airstrip and I am trying desperately to “keep it together” and think I have a fairly good grasp on myself. I am expecting a hand shake from Willie, but when he turn to me to say goodbye he grabs in up in a huge bear hug and that’s all it took, I found myself in a puddle of tears. I tell him thankyou for making my dreams come true and that I will remember him always. AUGH! Once the engine starts and we begin to roll down the runway I search the field, and there is Willie fanning the air with a huge double handed wave goodbye. Goodbye Willie! Our flight back to Arusha was breathtaking, we flew over Maasai villages, a volcano and could see Mt. Kilimanjaro, what a sight to behold.
We are met at the airstrip by another guide to takes to the the Mt. Meru Hotel to await our evening flight. Once at the hotel, we send some emails home and as sad as I am to be leaving I am really looking forward to seeing my family. It is a long day at the Mt. Meru, we have lunch and head for yet another gift shop. There are two women behind the counter, my sister finds a beautiful ebony tea set, but is worried about how to get it home. I convince her we can do a bit of repacking and fit it in. We begin talking to these woman and spend quite a bit of time in wonderful conversation with them. Again, the feeling of such vastly different lives, yet truly we are just 4 women enjoying exchanges with one another. After the tea set is packed and ready to go, the women take out two cloth pictures of African women and push them across the desk toward us. We tell them no, thankyou, we just can’t purchase anything else. Again, they push them toward us. Remember, there is a language barrier going on here. Finally we understand these pictures are to be gifts to us, from them! Well, more tears!. I came home with many wonderful items to adorn my walls, yet this is to be my favorite of treasures. Silly as it may sound my other favorite treasure is a bar of soap, yes, a bar of soap. It sits by on my bedside table, often, before bed I pick it up, take a wiff and I am back in Africa!
We are escorted to Kili airport around 6, meet up with the family we have been traveling with, say our goodbyes and begin the walk to the airplane. I remember each and every step, knowing all the while I am one step closer to having to take my feet off the ground of this wonderful country. The last step was a hard one and we roll down the runway with heavy hearts. Luck is with us again, we are able to stretch out and sleep. We have a full day in Amsterdam and decide to hop on a tourbus. I am glad we did it, can’t imagine sitting in the airport all day, but man I was exhausted! Once on our flight back to Boston we realize it will be a full flight, we have been spoiled and are now unable to find sleep. My sister and I decided to look at the movie selection and what do we find but….The Lion King. So, there we sit, two grown women watching The Lion King with tears pouring down our cheeks! We part in Boston, our Sister’s Safari has come to an end.
This was a trip of dreams, I will carry Africa with me every day, yet a piece of me was left behind as well. Thompson’s did not disappoint, Africa did not disappoint. How fortunate I am to have such wonderful memories to reflect back on.
Thankyou for sticking with me, I had no idea I could be so long-winded. Now, it has been said before, but I will say it again, keep those trip reports coming, so I can relive my dreams through you .
Teri
Just beautiful Teri. The emotions, the experiences, the fulfillment. Thank you so much.
My trip report was not one filled with valuable information for future travlers, so want to pass along just a few tidbits of info...
Zip-off pants are fabulous, I took 2, wish I had 3. Never wore my Tilley hat, I found it hard to sit back in the seat with it on, I just used a plain old ball-cap. Ladies, hair and make-up will not matter, just stay away from mirrors. I took enough over the counter meds to sustain an army, never needed a thing. I was chilly more often than hot. I never saw a tse-tse fly and there are more mosquitos in my back yard than in Africa! Deet came in handy for the flies, but again, no problem w/mosquitos. Sani-wipes are great, I took many and we used them all. Journal every night, even if is is just a few words to jog your memory. I took close to 800 pictures, had two 1 GB memory cards, downloaded to a Wolverine each night. I brought 3 sets of rechargable batteries, and recharged every day in the vehicle.Remember to step away from the lens from time to time and just soak in the sights! I originally was going to take $1,000 in cash, but cut back to $850 once I saw what a wad it was...wish I had taken the extra cash. I traveled with my AMEX for emergencies only..nobody took Amex, but it is probably a good thing I didn't have my Visa...my children might not be going to college if I did. I kept my cash in a waist belt, inside my pants and also wore a fanny pack. My waistline was atrocious...again, stay away from mirrors. I didn't think I would be interested in African art, but oh, that bug bit me early. Before I left, my oldest daughter said "Mom, don't be brining home any African masks" and I assured her I wouldn't. Of course, that is the first thing I bought. Maasai Spears look wonderful mounted over doorways!
I did not take anything in the least bit dressy, but for those of you doing more lodges than camps, you might want to throw in something a bit more festive than khaki. It is amazing what a bandana tied around your neck can do for a girl wanting to dress it up a bit.
The greatest advice I can give is to just sit back, relax,be flexible, enjoy and savor each and every moment, sight, smell, sound and adventure that awaits you!
You have written a beautiful report and described why travel to Africa is life changing.
I'm glad your unfortunate 24 hour delay did not drastically disrupt your travels.
My first destination was Tarangire also so I could really relate to your impressions.
You and your sister will have lots to reminisce about for years to come.
Thanks for the in depth report.
Oh, I almost forgot...THANKYOU all SO much for your kind words. Orignially I thought writing this report would be to painful, yet it has been just the opposite. I have had so much fun sharing my story with you guys...the people that "get it." Thanks everybody!
I've held off saying anything till now so to allow the report to be completed: thankyou for taking the time out to write it. You know that obviously having just returned experiences are still vivid within your mind - I was in the Serengeti in Jan 2005 and let me assure you those experiences are just as vivid this far down the line.
So a heck of a lot of photos - look foward to seeing them
Matt
Thanks for the wonderful read. You convey your impressions and emotions perfectly. What a lovely trip you had with your sister.
CW
This is the best trip report I have read...thank you so much for a front row seat to your adventure....so fun to read! We are leaving at the end of September for our very first safari, and reading your trip report makes me so anxious to go. I hope our trip is half as good! Thank you!
How did you bring home the Maasai spears and where did you get them? We're going in September and I have the perfect wall for some spears...
Thanks for a great report!
Marija,
I found the spears at the Cultural Center in Arusha, but feel certain they are available at most large shopping areas. They come apart into 3 pieces. They were wrapped heavily in brown paper and lay at the bottom of my duffle. I loved it when the US customs agent looked at me and said "Do you have SPEARS in there"?...Yep!
Marija,
Almost forgot to add...be sure the longest piece isn't longer than your duffle.
Cindysafari,
Three months and counting? Oh, what fun! The excitement will only build!
Thanks! Real spears aren't collapsible are they?!
I personally found the Cultural Center in Arusha (on Sokaine Road) very expensive to what we encountered later on in our travels: we went there on the first day in Arusha and bought various items which could have later been purchased much much cheaper. For really good Maasai artifacts there is a market place outside of Mto Wa Mbu which I've mentioned before where one can purchase everything from Shuka blankets for 5 dollars to the old tyre sandals to spears and bow and arrows: I actually traded a parker pen with a Moran for his staff which has been polished smooth by the passage of generations of herders (at least I hope) The real spears I saw certainly weren't able to be broken down. My advice with that centre is visit at the start, consider what you like and their prices, do your trip and see what can be bought locally then if no luck return on the last day. There is also a handicrafts market just down from the clock tower where again things are much cheaper and one has the possibility of "Polite" haggling.. Still, Marija hasn't mentioned her itinerary.
Matt
I agree completely Matt, I later learned the Cultural Center was not the place to shop,infact I felt sick once I saw the prices at other places. I don't remember seeing spears anywhere else we went, though.
Here's my itinerary, starting 9 September:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=4&tid=34802068
There's no time in Nairobi after the safari. We fly from the Serengeti to Nairobi and home the same day. We're also flying between all places, except Lake Manyara and Ngorongoro. I'd like to buy a good ebony mask, since we collect masks, but I'm not at all sure how and when we can acquire one. And now I want a spear or two!
Countingdown, After much lurking on Fodor's and learning so much about what to prepare for and possibly expect on our upcoming Tanzanian safari, your post moved me to register and say "WOW!!" - You've put magical words and mental images to the adventure we're about to embark on... Knowing even 24 hr delays won't shadow the experience tells me we are off to a place that will match the long-time dreams we've had! Like you, traveling to Africa has been in my hopes for many years, always with the idea that I'd return many times. Your thoughts and comments assure me I'm just off for the great beginning of hopefully many journeys.
Absolutely beautiful and heartfelt. As the tears rolled down my cheeks, I thought "Africa did a good job. "We've got another Africaphile." Lucky you. Thanks so much for sharing your experiences.
Sandi,
WOW, I have a title...Africaphile...love it!
That's wonderful. Your observations are very perceptive and it's really a pleasure to read your report.
africnow....Two months and counting? I think it was about this time I stopped counting in months and switched to weeks, soon you will be countingdown(this my name) the days! What is your itinerary, how many in your group? Do tell more about your upcoming adventure! Thank you so much for following along, I loved all of your comments!
Wildebeestus...Great to have you come along on my journey as well. Again..itinerary, details? Please let us know. You will understand once you are on the post-safari end of this how very valuable it is for those of us already there, as was stated earlier it keeps us out of the therapists office!
Teri - all I can say is thank you! You shared your trip and touched me deeply. You answered a lot of questions but now I have many more - I will be in touch but again thank you...your report was beautiful.
Start planning your next safari!
Teri, can't you think of more to tell use? I loved your trip report and I'm happy for you and your sister that you got to share this amazing experience together. My sister doesn't have the travel bug and wouldn't spend the money to go to Africa. She can't imagine how wrong she is!
I wish I could translate what I feel into words like you have. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Cindy
Thank you so much for sharing your experiences with us! I loved your report -- funny, sweet, and very good at capturing your unique experience. It made my day.
A beautiful report, you have given us all so much pleasure, its almost as though we have been there with you. I'm off in August and with so much happening at home had almost forgotten about it, I feel re-inspired, Yvonne
Teri,
Here comes another "lurker" thanking you for a beautiful and inspirational report. I leave with my family of four in exactly a week, going to more or less the same areas as you (plus southern Tanz). This was a great peek into what awaits us.
I just copied your entire report and mailed it to my wife and teenage daughters.
Forgot to comment on your mention of the shot fired to discourage the elephant. That must have been quite an experience indeed, worthy of bonding and a photo by those involved.
No shot has ever been fired on any safari I've been on, whether in a vehicle or on foot. Once while walking a guide raised the rifle and uttered an expletive, but no trigger pulled. Once in the middle of the night a ranger stationed in a nearby village fired his machine gun to scare away elephants (and scare me half to death.) But that was 1/2 a mile away.
I have not known others to have experienced a gunshot fired during a safari activity either. Glad it worked out ok. Did the ranger mention his actions were a rarity?
atravelynn,
A little background about the park ranger. When we first arrived at camp we were told they were having problems in the area with a very agressive elephant, named John. We were given a brief description of John (missing a tusk) and told he had come into this camp as well as others often and recently.At first I thought they were kidding...you know, a story to enhance the whole safari/adventure. Just as we "our" elephant was approaching I heard one of them say.."We'd better call the park ranger"..all the while I am thinking, man I hope he lives nearby, and can't imagine he does, seeing as we are in the middle of nowhere!!!!! Seconds later we see him approach with gun in hand. I wasn't paying attention earlier, apparently they told us he was stationed in our camp.I think I missed that part due to the fact I was having a hard time wrapping my brain around the fact that a grumpy elephant could come a calling. This was our very day in camp, and I wasn't expecting this sort of news upon arrival. After the elephant incident, I asked..."was that John'?...nope, not John.
And, yes indeed the sound of that gun being fired was hair-raising, at the time I didn't know if he had fired into the air or into the elephant and I also didn't know for a few seconds if it had worked. I was huddled in the drivers seat of our land rover and flashing back to telling my sister...oh, not to worry, these safaris are perfectly safe! She agrees wholeheartedly, what a thrill. Nothing like a huge elephant thundering into your first camp to get your safari underway!
nhulberg,
One week to go??? How were you able to write in complete sentences? At that point I wasn't even able to complete a thought. I am so excited for you! Is this a family safari, where are you headed?
Thanks so much for the kind remarks. I am proud to have brought out a "lurker", being one myself for many many months.
Teri
Teri, what a wonderful trip report! I too am going on safari with my sister (we are in our 30's), in just over a month, so reading this has given me an insight into what a magical time we are going to have. You really seem to have got alot out of your experience, not just great memories but something deeper. I grew up on the same movies and have felt the draw of Africa also, and what you descibed in your report made the whole thing come alive. Thanks so much for sharing.
I wonder what John the Elephant's fate will be.
John's fate didn't sound too promising.
makes me wish I had a sister. Most excellent report! Mahalo for sharing!
Sundowner,
Actually, there is more to the story, but it has nothing to do with game viewing, camping, stars, beautiful scenery or enriching cultural exchanges. After leaving Mountain Village Lodge and heading out for the beginning of our safari I simply state in my report…”we drove through Arusha.” When I wrote those words I hesitated, wondering if I dare describe it, or if it was best to just get on with the story. Obviously, I decided to move on. I don’t wish to offend, and am sure I will encounter some opposing views, and even as I type wonder if I will push the magic “send” button.
I had many misconceptions about Africa, and most often I was pleasantly surprised. However, and that is a big however, the drive through Arusha was something entirely different. The Lodge was tucked away neatly behind lush vegetation, and thus far the only sights we have seen were under the cloak of darkness. It doesn’t take long before we enter the city, well, I thought we were going to enter a city. I am not an extremely well traveled being. I have been to England, Scotland, and Hawaii, nothing ever as remote or exotic as some of you. I honestly don’t know what I expected, I just knew I wasn’t expecting this. At first, I though perhaps we were just on the outskirts of town, and down the road somewhere we would enter the real city of Arusha, you know…the nice one. Remember, I’m here to go on safari…see animals, have fun, laugh with my sister..happy, happy, happy. I remember, as we drove on and on feeling myself push against the back of the seat, almost as if trying to keep the greatest distance possible between me and what I was seeing. Here were the real Africans, the ones who live their whole lives and never see a giraffe, elephant or lion, the ones who never get that first glimpse of Ngorongoro crater. Having just met our guide the night before I find myself unable, or perhaps unwilling to question or comment on what is unfolding before me. I ride in silence, all the while searching the sights we are passing, trying to take it all in. I look across the seat to my sister, our eyes meet with expressions of disbelief, sorrow, and shame. What privilidged lives we lead, how much we take for granted. I also remember feeling embarrassed to be seen, driving along in our nice land rover adorned with safari logos. The drive goes on for a very long time, all the while the scenery changes, nothing is consistant, nothing looks planned or finished, yet collectively it is all the same. If I close my eyes some of the images that pop into my head are: people everywhere, walking, school children in sweaters, women with banana plants on top of their heads, women hoeing nothing more than a patch of dust by the side of the road, pick up trucks filled with young men and large speakers blasting information about an upcoming political event, a shack with a crudely cut window and “ Butcher” printed in primitive letters above the door, dust and dirt, little to no cement, very young children in various degrees of dress, some in just a nightshirt, others in Gap t-shirts, something or someone fills every inch of space visible, and this goes on an on and on. Once through town I begin to relax, yet remain silent while trying to pack these visions away somewhere neatly in my brain. And, that is just what I did, I couldn’t let those images linger, not for now anyway. Once back in Arusha, at the end of our trip I was once again faced with the reality of Africa. It took some time and much thought, but as I type I wonder who really struggles more? These people, at such a basic level, or us with all our self-imposed stresses? These visions pop into my head daily, a thought provoking ride, to say the least.
Thanks for the great reading!! You have a true gift for writing. I am about to make a very similiar trip with my sister-- Hope our experiences are as wonderful as you explained (except for the plane delay-- we too are on KLM) Thanks for sharing!
Countingdown, thank you for the great report. I can almost visualize you and sister giggling (like teenages at the malt shop)on the way to the bathroom with the dreaded hyena nearby. And, the nostalgic reference to the movie Hatari was superb! As others have said, you have a great knack for writing. Thanks again for making my evening. Dick
Teri,
I just read this entire post, which I think needs to be revived and reread again and again. I didn't have time in June to read much, so I had missed your wonderful report, but was curious about your safari with Willie, naturally. You captured better than anyone ever can, the sensitivity and dignity of this man and the African people. I was alone with him and my husband on a private safari. Thomson rarely takes such a request as they need to fill their tours. Anyway, I learned a lot from Willie too, but as this was by no means my first trip to Africa or Tanzania, I come from a different perspective. I was able to talk in-depth about deeper issues that concern me with him. I'm a talker, so was always asking questions and thus getting Willie to talk too even though he's really a quiet man. I'm not a good writer like you are, so I have difficulty expressing my feelings, but believe me tears are streaming down my face reading your post and recalling my own experiences. Willie is such a gentle, knowledgeable and sensitive man and with the greatest sense of humor too. As you said, we also had him laughing into his napkin constantly. We would drink wine toghether into the wee hours every night by the fire and talk Africa and laugh at jokes. Thanks for reminding me, Kristina
Oh, Kristina...just reading your words and knowing somebody out there in Fodorville "knows" Willie has raised goosebumps on my arms and tears in my eyes. Of all the treasures Africa gave to me, Willie remains my favorite.
Thanks for your kind words,
Teri
Oh my!!! I can't believe that I forgot to come back to this report once I got back from that trip and I missed out! What an absolutely fantastic trip report - just wonderful! THANK YOU!!!!!