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Old Jul 27th, 2006, 10:09 AM
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Botswana Self Drive Cost Breakdown

Botswana Summer 2006 Trip
Cost breakdown in USD

Last year my wife and I took a self drive trip to Botswana. In Joberg, we rented a Hilux 4x4 with camping equipment and drove to Moremi, Chobe, Victoria Falls, Hwange Park (Zimbabwe) and back to Joberg, a 26 day trip.

Luangwablondes, a valued and frequent contributor here at Fodors was a vital part of the planning stages. With over 100 emails between us, luangwablondes provided vital information and a crucial kick in the behind, prodding us to make our park reservations early.

So much of what luangwablondes wrote, I failed to study and learn. When we returned home and began to review things we could have improved upon during the trip, I discovered the exact same suggestions were outlined in the earliest of emails we had received from luangwablondes.

Having said all that, even though we had zero camping and 4x4 driving experience, for us, the trip was not at all a difficult adventure. On the contrary, we had so much fun, we are going back to Botswana again August 1, 2006.

Last year, one of the few request luangwablondes asked of us, was to post a trip report and the price breakdown of our 2005 Bots trip.

Although, I’ve written thousands of words describing our 26 days of traveling, I’m sorry to say, I did not fulfill my promise to luangwablondes, and failed to post a single word.

Now, hoping to make amends, here is the breakdown of this years Botswana trip. If you would like the full details of any items listed below, no problems, just ask.


Botswana Summer 2006 Trip
Cost breakdown in USD

Depart August 1, 2006 - Return August 26
26 Traveling days
22 Camper rental days
17 Days camping in Moremi & Chobe
2 people

$ 9,790 total cost
$ 4,895 per person
$ 188. per day per person



Iberia Airlines, Chicago – Madrid – Joberg - $ 3,012
Early mooring arrival in MAD, we took a 08.00 check-in at an airport hotel to grab some sleep before our 21.30 flight to JNB.

Camper - $ 3,352 – $ 152 per day
22 days, 4x4 fully equipped safari camper. We took some time watching the exchange rates and made some advance payments to lock in prices.

Botswana – $ 2,592
Boarder Fees, Park Fees (17 days of camping)
Gas, Food, Souvenir Shopping & Hotel Camping.

South Africa – $ 523
Hotel, Food, Tolls, Rental Car
When we drop off the camper, we will rent a car at the airport and drive to the Indaba Hotel, (Fourways) do some shopping, and then use the car to get back to the airport for our departure the next day.

In Transit Traveling Expenses - $ 310.
Taxi to/from ORD airport, Hotel MAD, Food.

Thank you, to all who have helped so many of us plan our trips.

Regards,
Jon
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Old Jul 27th, 2006, 10:57 AM
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I'm curious - what sort of camping equipment is supplied with the rental? What did you have to bring with you? I imagine that there's some equipment, like gps devices, that you needed to bring from home. But, did they provide the usual camping stuff - tents, sleeping bags, sleeping pads/cots, cooking equipment (stoves and pots), water jugs, water purification, etc? Was there stuff you bought on location and discarded later?

Also, how did you handle money matters? Did you carry a lot of cash? Traveler's Checks? Or, could you do things with credit cards and use ATMs along the way?
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Old Jul 27th, 2006, 12:49 PM
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Thank you for your question.

This will be our first time renting from Bushlore and their full equipment list is at the end of this post.


You search out rental companys that provide the supplies you need. So many factors go in to deciding what camper company to choose. Often, it's simply who has campers available.

We picked Bushlore, because of their extensive equipment list and the way they configure their campers, i.e. gas cylinder holder, rubber sand ladders, highlift jacks, and for cooking, a collapsible tripod, baking tin, a sharp ax and a full tank of gas on handover.

While items above do not appear to be important enough to change rental companies, maybe more of a testament to how well similar companies stock their campers, but for us, this extra equipment and the way it is configured will make the trip much more pleasurable.

We are hoping to add this ground cover to the list:

http://www.makro.co.za/ProductDetail...00000086567|EA

And we bought this monster 15,000,000 candle power spot light. There's always something big crawling around at night.

http://www.cyclopssolutions.com/inde...detail_177.cfm

Here is an example of the 15,000,000 candle power light at work
http://www.imagesbyhenryjames.com/Bl...?showimage=335


We are bringing some whole wheat instant Couscous and some chili mix – really not necessary because there is a full supply of food in Maun. Also, our own camp chairs, a GPS, a lot of photo and video equipment, and some other stuff like large garbage bags and an adaptor I made up our last trip out, that will plug into the outlet that feeds off the second battery that powers the refrigerator.

The cigarette outlet only works when the engine is running, therefore, not very useful for overnight battery charging. You need to depend on the second battery for charging your photo batteries.

We give just about everything we have away before we leave. This year we are bringing extra clothes to give away also. You can't give enough away.

In addition, we are bringing back 322 photographs we took of people roadside, in towns and in the park, hoping to find them again.

Water purification was not necessary. In Moremi and Chobe they have portable water at the camps.

We had a lot of difficulty getting cash.

We stopped using traveler's checks and bringing large amounts of cash when the cash stations became ubiquitous.

But, things seemed to have change and traveler's checks would have saved us a lot of money and time last year.

In South Africa and Botswana, we learned that our cash station cards issued from our bank in Chicago would never work. The machines would list Sirrus, Plus and Star as cards that would be accepted, but an oversize new VISA sign was also ominously posted on the machines.

We believe, but have not yet confirmed, that if your bank cash card is not a Visa Debit Bank Card, it will not work at cash machines in many countries – France, South Africa, and Botswana.

In Maun paying with our credit card was often difficult – not so in other parts of Botswana. At Choppers, our credit card went through quickly and they were quick to give us extra cash, but at Shoprite we would always end up paying in cash or having the manager call in the charge. Shoprite and Choppers had different merchant banks.

The banks we visited in Maun all had an extra cash advance fee for using credit cards and the transactions took a long time. These extra fees were not charged in South Africa or other towns in Botswana.

Outside of Maun and in South Africa, the banks would simply swipe the card and quickly give us the cash – same thing at Choppers.

The credit cards issued in the states are tricky also. Visa/MasterCard will charge you 3% for the foreign transaction, but most issuing banks will charge you an additional 2% or more on top of that. Therefore, every foreign currency purchase has you paying the exchange rate plus 5% or more.

Some banks issue credit cards that do not charge the additional 2% or so over the Visa charge, but we have decided, this Botswana 2006, to go with the Visa Debit card – no foreign transaction fees – we hope this card will work.

We learned that exchanging money at the airport is very costly – what’s new? But, it's really the only way for foreigners to get Pula in South Africa. South Africa has some very restrictive currency exchange regulations for foreigners.

At Fourways Mall outside of Joberg, the exchanges we visited had local license only. They were allowed to exchange for Pula with South African Residents only

The only other choice was exchanging for Pula at the banks, where they require you to write out a letter describing why you want the money, how long you will be in Botswana, the exact entry and exit dates, the type of vehicle, registration number and some more stuff. But, even if you do all of the above, the bank will charge you a huge commission rate, an unpractical commission rate, over 10%.

Jon
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Old Jul 27th, 2006, 12:50 PM
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Equipment list for 4x4 safari camper:

A rack to hold the gas cans
Sand ladders
High lift jack,
Aluminum Roof rack
Gas cylinder holder
Eezi Awn rooftop tent/s
Ground tent if specified/preferred
Eezi Awning – pullout shade awning(additional)
40L Water – tank (full) Additional water tank optional
2 Ratchet tie downs
Fold up table
Camp chairs
Battery powered lamp or gas lantern
Torch
Gas cylinders (full)
Cooker top/s
Axe
Spade
First aid kit
Camp shower and collapsible basin
Spot light
Bedding – sleeping bags, pillows, sheets and bath towels on request
Mobile toilet (on request)
40L Fridge/Freezer
Fold up shower or toilet enclosure (on request)
Portable wash-up basin
Long range fuel tank (130 liter Land Rover, 160L Toyota) (full on handover)
Jerry cans and holder (optional)
Rear diff lock/center diff lock Dual battery system
Tow strap
Jumper cables
Rubber sand ladders
Puncture repair kitTow bar
Basic tool kit
Highlift jack/Air jack
Snorkel(Land Rovers only)
Fender covers
Additional spare tyre (2nd spare)
Bullbar
Steel canopy where necessary, side and rear opening * (dust proof)
Winch (on request only, additional cost)
GPS (on request only, additional cost)
Air compressor and tyre pressure gauge
Two way radios (Optional – additional cost)
Satellite phone (Optional – additional cost)

GOMO CAMP KITCHEN

Picnic Box Campfire Box Camp kitchen

Paper plate holders -Frying Pan -Cutting board
Plates -No 10 cast iron bake pot -Braai turner
Forks -Lid -Wooden spoon
Knives -Collapsible Tripod -Bread knife
Spoons -Stainless steel Braai grid -Tongs
Teaspoons -Canvas Grid bag -Serving spoon
Utility knife -Butchers knife
Waiters friend -Utility knife
Cutlery Container -Utensil container
Dessert/Cereal bowls
Mugs -Utility container – L
S/S CUPS
Billy can
-Kettle
Mixing/Salad bowl
Can opener
Pot lid lifter
Spice container
Baking tin
Dishcloth

BOOKS AND DOCUMENTATION (standard with all vehicles)

Field guide to mammals of Southern Africa
Field guide to birds of Southern Africa
Bushlore ‘On Safari’: 4x4 and camp equipment information
Adventurers guides to the areas being visited
All documentation required for cross border travel
MAPS and GPS coordinates in certain areas
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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 12:47 AM
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It's late at night, I'm confused. Your costs, is it for year 2005 or 2006?
regards - tom
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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 04:56 AM
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Right, no problems. I'm always missing information in the posts that I read - have to stop doing that - and the above post is a bit wordy to say the least.

The price breakdown is for August 2006. The titel at the top of the post reads:

Botswana Summer 2006 Trip
Cost breakdown in USD

The cost breakdown for 2005 is quite fun to look at also. It includes bartering for the Queens Suite at The Victoria Falls Hotel for $300/night.

Ops, did I write something confusing again? Sorry... 2006 2006 2006.
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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 05:13 AM
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I've been asked NOT to bring the 15,000,000 candle power spotlight to Bots, for reasons that the Light will possibly fry some of the animal’s eyes.

I totally agree and was stupid not to think of that, it's not possible for us to look directly at the light from 200 meters away, so imagining critters with the night vision thing going on is heartbreaking.

I appreciate the heads up. This city boy has so much to learn.
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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 05:53 AM
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scubatv:
This is very interesting and different than what we usually see. I can't speak for luangwablondes but I think that you have redeemed yourself.
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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 06:32 AM
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Scubatv: thanks for taking the time to post this. I am very interested in doing a self-drive, camping safari in the future and it will be good to come back to this reference material.

Does your rental company provide some kind of back up service in the price, in case of break down or even just getting stuck somehow?

Have a great 2006 trip and please post a report here after, I would love to get the highlights as well as more tips.
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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 09:31 AM
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santharamhari
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Bill,

Personally, i would be afraid to self-drive in chobe/moremi etc etc., mainly due to the elephants.

However, this kind of trip sounds very fun and full of excietement.

Hari
 
Old Jul 28th, 2006, 10:20 AM
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Jon,

You say that you were not a camper before. What did you find to be your major challenges camping-wise on the trip? And how was the driving?

CW

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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 10:46 AM
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Thanks, this is really helpful.

I have done a few self-drive safaris (but nothing as ambitious as yours).

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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 01:17 PM
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Wow, it sounds like SO much fun! We self-drive, but don't camp (other than the time we went on an escorted camping safari in Botswana). However, I might be persuaded to go it alone, after reading this. Thanks, scubatv!
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Old Jul 29th, 2006, 03:19 PM
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As Jon knows, its all in the planning to make a successful trip.
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Old Jul 29th, 2006, 04:00 PM
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Don’t Go!

We encourage all of you not to “go it alone”. Do not attempt to take a self drive camping safari trip into Botswana.

Please, these trips are much too dangerous and the hardships are too great (besides, we want the park all to ourselves).

Really, who wants to drive 2,400 km, round trip, from Joberg?



Elephants

You regularly come across elephants in Moremi/Chobe, both alone and in herds.
We don’t mess too much with the herds, but often, we get very close to single elephants.

Taking stupid and unreasonable chances, we position ourselves a distance away, calculating the direction they will be walking, hoping they will pass close to our parked camper.

There have been times when the elephants have come so close, they had to lift up one leg and shimmy their bodies around the camper to get past. Elephants are unbelievably dexterous.

I’ve felt no fear, because the elephants have always approached calmly and I WAS TOO STUPID TO KNOW ANY BETTER. Luckily, the elephants have always gone on their way peacefully.

Now, I clearly know that I have been taking terrible risks – I think my wife knew this earlier - and should stop this behavior immediately.

Because of their personal experience with the elephant’s capricious behavior and the fact that elephants have torn up their camper a bit, friends have told me they have removed elephants from their list of favorite animals. They don’t like ‘em anymore.

I’ve have seen elephants raging through camp, making quite a fuss, but never going after anyone. It’s probably a horrific and terrifying sight to witness.

All the elephants we have encounter have had some habitation to people. That, and the laws of chance, is probably why we have been lucky enough to avoid problems.

Having said all that, it sure was fun being so close to a wild elephant.



Breakdown Service

The camper rental company does provide 24/7 breakdown service, but something like that is more practical if your traveling in South Africa rather then Botswana or a wildlife park. A satellite phone could come in handy, but mostly, you depend on others for help.




Camping Challenges

The number one challenge was simply getting our bodies used to the physical effort.

It took a full two weeks for my knees to get used to climbing in and out of the camper bed to remove the gumbo boxes that stored our equipment.

Our hands were raw from collecting firewood – bringing gloves this time. And the sleeping arrangements were quite different that what we have at home.

My wife and I sleep on a king size bed and while camping we shared a 2 inch thick, 4 feet wide mat.

It was great. There is nothing like being out on your own, with only a thin canvas separating you from the wildlife, and cuddling while the lions roar into the night.

At the end of the trip, we were hardened and strong. Unfortunately, we will start out again soft and weak.



Rental Camper

Traveling with a rental camper has many disadvantages over someone travel with their own camper set up the way they like.

You’re always trying to create systems and procedures to make your life more comfortable and thinking of equipment that you would like to have. If you want to spend money, you can purchase many camping extra in Maun.

In the beginning of the trip, a good part of the time was spent trying to figure out how we were going to camp. But, that did not interfere with the wildlife viewing. In Botswana, an abundant amount of wildlife was always around at any time of the day.

The campers are air conditioned and come equipped with a refrigerator, so, life is quite comfortable.




Cooking

Our cooking was simple. While delicious for us, there were no gourmet camp meals at dinner. Other self drivers had trailers and full kitchens, cooking breads, pancakes with syrup and even salads.

I ate a lot of grilled meat and beans. My wife doesn’t like to eat things that have a face, so she happily ate butternuts squash, sweet potatoes, eggs and toast.



Driving

Driving was on the left side of the road. We’re from the states and drive on the right, so, we had to stay focused. The main roads outside the park are nicely paved.

In the park, the Toyota Hilux 4x4 was more than capable of handing the tracks

To be fair – We’ve driven cars in: Palermo, Italy / Caracas, Venezuela / Mumbai, India / Medians in Marrakech and traveled 10 days on a $5.50 a day moped throughout the Mekong delta - wife on the back, not very comfortable. So, our driving tolerance is a bit high.

There are some real dangers going it alone in Botswana. The list of chores that must be done each day is huge. A working vacation takes on new meaning when doing the self drive safari thing.


Thanks for your questions.
Jon
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