Hi Hari

Welcome back, it's good to hear that you had a superb time (and hopefully, no luggage issues). I look forward to the report and pictures.

Welcome back from me, too, Hari. Gather your strength, draw a breath or three, relax with some Wolf Blass for a day or so, then get stuck into that trip report! We'll be patient.

John

Thanks Gaurang and John,

WIll do....

Hari

Lagoon camp (trip report):

Amidst the quick packing at the end of my trip, i lost my journal from Lagoon camp....so i will not make a day by day entry for Lagoon. Just a synopsis for now: I have a detailed day by day trip report for Lebala and Little Kwara.

Landed in Maun on August 22nd from JNB. The flight was jam-packed with the usual safari crowd....everyone looks exactly like everybody else on the flight. My sister Beena and I had an immediate transfer by Moremi Air to Lagoon camp.

We met our guide to be Ruster, who was returning from leave who was heading bk with us from Maun. He is a fantastic person and a great guide!!! We were to spend the next three days with him.

The flight from Maun to Lagoon, had lots of great vistas and lots of ellies along the way.

On landing at the airstrip, we were little disappointed to see Jonah and Lebu (camp managers) go on leave. We are very fond of the both of them. However, Bk made us feel right at hom immediately. BK, many of you may know him from his great-guiding days from Mombo. He has lots of very interesting stories and is very very nice to talk to. Lebu, we were lucky to see her again later in the trip....

Game viewing was very good. Lots of huge ellie herds all over northern Kwando area. Some herds more relaxed than the others.

Every morning drive gave me good Sable and Roan sightings. I may hv a couple of good pics of Roan. The sable was little more shy.

Ruster and Baruti (brilliant tracker) followed up on lion prints to find a radio-collared lioness that was in a fight of some sort and seemed to be bleeding. The rest of the pride was skittish and bolted away prior to our arrival.

One evening, brilliant guiding and tracking brought us to the Lagoon pride across on a little island north of camp. The pride is currently 6 in number (4 lionesses and 2 sub-adult males). Spent the evening with them, as they stalked baby ele unsuccessfully. Was a fabulous afternoon drive. Strangely, the lions were not even looking at the warthogs that were in the immmediate vicinity. One of the sub-adult males has just recently joined the pride (probably nomadic)was what Ruster mentioned. Hopefully, the pride will soon gain strength to being a dominant force yet again.

Lots of good general game. Buffalo herds present, but, not in the same quantities as in the Lebala side.

The Lagoon pack of dogs, unfortunately lost their entire litter of pups. However, they are seen every 4 days or so. They cover a huge home range, and according to BK....they go to as far as Chobe NP. I missed them during my stay.

The famous cheetah boys (a favourite) on these boards, hang out most of their time these days in the immediate lagoon area. Unlucky for me, they were not seen during my 3 nights here, but, returned later in the week when i was at Lebala. Ruster, did call us to say they were bk. Lebala was rocking so hard, that, Spencer and i didnt want to leave our immediate sightings (at Lebala) to drive that far and lose out on good light to photograph. So, hopefully i will see the boys on my next trip.

Like i said, lots of good general game all round.

Overall, Lagoon was charming and nice. Game viewing very good, especially with a good guide like Ruster. Great guy, lots of interseting stories from his vast experiences from over the years.

Only tip, i can give you is to leave camp atleast a few minutes earlier, so that maximizes your chances for Roan and Sable. I didnt see any later in the day. Maybe, it's just me.

The weather was up and down....cold mornings to pleasant mornings to hot/warm days. Nice time of the year to visit.

On August 25th, Ruster and Baruti drove us to Lebala camp. Lots of ellie herds along the way. We stopped by all the hang-out spots for the cheetah bros, but, they weren't around.

Ruster mentioned, that usually Roan are more shy than Sable, and that i was lucky to have gotten some decent pictures.

I may hv missed out on some things, as i dont hv my journal from Lagoon....but, the most important stuff has been listed.

Next: Lebala camp: But, it's going to take a couple of days.

Hi Hari,

Great to hear that you really enjoyed your trip and I think I am absolutely green that you saw both sable and roan, are you saying daily? Though I need good photos as well as good sightings for me to be a really happy gameviewer!

One of the problems of short stays I guess, that you miss something at one camp, but then maybe you miss something at the next one, I myself, do prefer much longer stays.

Are the vehicles suitable for sitting 3 rows of 2 or as I thought 2 rows to sit 3?

Shall look forward to the next chapter.

Kind regards,

Kaye

Lebala Trip report:August 25th

Ruster dropped us at Lebala at 10AM. Greeted by Harry and Monique and was a delight to see them again. Chatted for a short bit and then Monique showed us our room. My good friend and guide Spencer showed up in time for breakfast and was nice to see him again.

Before i get to any of the sightings, Lebala camp was rocking. Full house capacity every night, lots of requests for Private guides/private vehicles that entire week. Game viewing was absolutely phenomenal!!! At one point, they had 5 vehicles going out on drive.

We started off the afternoon of August 25th by driving to twin pools area to watch a female cheetah trying to hunt impala on the flood plains. It was awesome to just sit there at the sighting and watch her every move and ambush strategy.

Spencer, was spot-on with his predictions of her every move, definitely decieded by the wind factor etc etc., Watching the final sprint was awesome!!! However, she was perhaps a second or two too early and had to give up the futile chase, completely exhausted!!!

This happened right on the border of Kwando/Selinda and hence a few trucks from both sides got a chance to see the action. Guides maintain good relationships between the two camps.

Knowing, the cheetah was going to shut-shop for the day....we stopped for sun downers. Ironic to bump into OB (now guide at Selinda), he was my guide when i had seen this very cheetah at Lagoon last year. She was with her then sub-adult cubs. Only one survived, but, has not been seen.

At sun-downers, we were happy she wasnt successful as we saw hyenas trying to trail her every move. I dont think she would hv been able to eat much that day.

Good to be back at Lebala and a great first drive.

More to come.....

Kaye,

Kwando only seats two rows of 3. They want all guests to interact with the guides. Entire trip, i only saw full capacity vehicles twice. Mostly saw 4 people.

Roan every single morning (3 night stay) and Sable (all but one morning).

I agree with the long stay. I plan to do 10 nights Lebala next time. Especially, if you read my report....i like to not rush at sightings...

Hari

August 26th (LEbala Contd):

I went straight to the cheetah again: My super-star guide Spencer, and Rock-star tracker Rock were confident of trying to relocate her. We found her very close to where we left her the previous evening.

We watched her sun-herself on termite mounds and watch her strategize her ambush once again. Got some good shots in the morning golden light. The baboons gave her away, this morning.

Same story in the afternoon drive. We headed back to camp at 11 Am that morning, knowing that the baboons upset her move. After lunch, she did much the same things. Had the sighting to ourself as most people who had seen her that morning didnt want to return and insisted that we radio them, should there be action. Once again, "Golden light" he said and i think i got some more good shots. A lovely day, spent with my favourit cat - the cheetah as you all may know and remember from my several posts on fodors.

This is what makes Kwando a great place to visit....The guiding/tracking skills along with the ability to stay at sightings. Also, today is one of those days i'm very glad to hv booked a private vehicle....i did not want to budge from the cheetah sighting at any point in the day. Spencer, was more than happy as well.

In hind sight, i wish i planned for more time at Lebala....two amazing days already done and pressure to do something different for the next day....

Night drive saw two relaxed genets at different points in time. Both Spencer and i were happy to head home. I'm not too keen to stay out late at night unless something really excieting is already cooking.

August 27thLebala contd)

We left after a quick cup of coffee. As usual, "Let's try and locate our animal" said Spencer. This cheetah was smarter than us. He usually is fantastic in locating her within minutes, today she had different ideas.

She was probably hunting under more cover than on the flood plains and we tried driving across different roads to try and locate her tracks to get her general direction but, couldnt really read much because there had been a lot of elephant movement at night making tracking very very difficult.

There was a radio call saying, that they had located the radio-collared lioness from the lagoon side. We turned it down and continued tracking. "Who wants to see a radio-collared lioness" he mentioned to one of the other guides calling in the sighting. We continued tracking.

Suddenly camp manager Harry (also guiding on the day) had been tracking the lioness and her pride and suddenly stumbled upon two male wild dogs. Spencer was speechless, "Hold on tight, it's going to be bumpy", he bellowed and off we went racing on the Ferrari safari of our dreams. After 15 mins of brilliant driving at flying speed, we came across the dogs and followed them.

My sister, was in the back row by herself and was bouncing around in the middle seat, truly excieted and thrilled....Hahahaha

They were on a mission....they wanted to eat. They trotted on and we drove along with them. They found some impalas, but were spooked off by baboons. After about 15 mins, they found a thicket and chose to rest up for the afternoon.

This is where, i truly enjoy the URI and the drive and handling. Designed very well for such action packed adventures. Lots of research has gone into it. Honestly, i cant think of a better area than Lebala/Selinda to follow the dogs.

After hanging out with the dogs for a bit, Spencer thru experience claimed that the dogs are in no rush....so we headed bk to camp to shower and eat a quick breakfast.

He knew how excieted i was, so we decieded to pack sandwitches and head bk to the dogs at 1PM. The dogs were found in the exact location where they were left. Two male dogs, very dark majestic beauties!!! Rock, Spencer and i chatted for a long time, drank lots of water and juice. Suddenly at 3:30 PM," Lunch time" he claimed and opened the zip lock bag of sandwitches. Monique had quickly organized 20 sandwitches for 3 people. Rock ate two and i ate one. I felt terribly embarassed when Spencer had one of his customery, "My doctor said no wheat for me" stories and poor guy just ate fruits. I didnt want a starved guide, not today atleast!!!

He took a short nap, while i just felt lucky staying with the dogs. The dogs suddenly woke up at 5PM and trotted off just when the other cars were approaching the sighting. Once again, Running wild with them in the URI's at high speed was thrilling!!! What fun!!!

They tried to flush impala out of a thicket, but, a huge herd of wildebeest chased them the other direction. I may hv some decent pics.

After more running wild, they flushed a young kudu out of a thicket and chased her into a crocodile infested swamp. Vehicles got there, and suddenly the dogs got a bit edgy. They were obviously new to the area and very nervous with the carcass in water. One by one, the vehicles pulled ou....evening light gone by now and the swamps mosquito infested.

Lots of speculations as to who the dogs were. They were neither the Lagoon pack nor the Selinda pack. Speculations ranged from them being nomads to a whole range of things.

Lots of guides/trackers from the Kwara camps were in the area that day and they are more or less confident that they are part of the Kwara pack of 3. They hadnt been seen in Kwara for 2 to 3 weeks at that point and the distance can easily be covered by the dogs (120kms) or so. The markings and color of the two male dogs, according to some guides were the give away.....if it is the Kwara pack, the alpha female was not seen that day and nobody knows as to her whereabouts.

After a longish day, i suggested to Spencer we head straight home and forget the spot-lights.

True example, of just sit in one spot and something happens....even as thrilling and unexpected as this!!!! Part of the whole Kwando experience. I have mentioned enough about the people and hospitality.....here's a taste of Kwando action-packed adrenaline jolt!!!!!!

Fantastic fantastic day!!! I didnt sleep a wink that entire night, still full of excietement from the adrenaline rush.

If i can draw parallels, i was as excieted as the day i ran the Boston marathon.

More to come: Next segment.

I dont know where that ugly face icon came in....but, it was a typo.....i should hv had a smiley face.....

Hari

Welcome back, Hari!

Hi Hari,
I haven't gotten to starting your trip report yet but just wanted to say WELCOME BACK!!! and glad you had a fantastic time!

Imelda

Thanks guys, for your greetings....

Bits and pieces of the Wild dog day.....that evening, Spencer noted the excietement on my face and allowed me to write down the sighting in the sightings report book that he logs in every evening. Although, this thread has plenty of mention of Spencer...you must note, that this is just my experience. All their other guides are very good also, and you may have similar good experiences. It's just that, i stick to what works for me. Even the newer guides hired by Kwando are groomed in terms of Kwando specific guidelines, even if they are from other top-notch companies. Kwando has a great mix of older and younger guides.

I felt a bit bad about my sister not going to the wild dog hunt that afternoon. 1 PM was too early for her to leave for the drive. However, she was happy to have a rest and stay in camp and did have a good time chatting with Monique and Harry.

August 28th: Lebala camp (Contd)

The morning drive started with the same tradition, "Let's try to re-locate our animal". We drove in the general direction of the cheetah and the bird calls led Rock and us straight to her. Jeez, she was found with a fully belly!!! What a successful, phenomenal cat!!! She probably was successful the previous day when we were all caught up with the dogs. She was suddenly spooked by the local hyena clan. We followed her for a bit as she tried to get out of harm's way from the hyenas. Even if the hyenas had got to the carcass, going by the size of her belly....i dont think she lost too much. After a few pictures (Yes, more....) we tried to back track and found the remains of the stomach contents of an impala. There were some vultures in the immediate area. One suspects, the hyenas got the bones and scraps.....even though, we missed the kill....i'm very happy that she is doing very well for herself in such a predator rich area. We caught up with a herd of 3000 plus buffalo in the twin-pools area (Yes, everything was happening in Twin Pools)....i guess amidst all the excietement, the buffalo herd was different and fun...

That afternoon, Spencer noted that we ought to do ele's (My last night at LEbala) and i hadnt had time to get pics of the large ele herds.

That's why, i say....stay longer, if you can.

Got some shots of general game and ele's...surprisingly, we found some very relaxed herds as well as a bull in musth. We had a final sun downer with Spencer and ROck on a termite mound with ele's in the background.

Night drive, everything happened again.....Rock wanted to follow-up on leopard tracks he had seen that morning and we went bk in that general direction. There she was right on the road around the Motswiri pan area.....followed her for atleast 15 mins until we lost her in thick vegetation. Also saw very relaxed Serval, genet and Civet that drive. "3 Spotted cats in one drive" Spencer noted. One of the other cars had spotted the radio-collared lioness and her pride again....but, i dont think many cars followed up on that sighting which was further away, but, apparently they were stalking the big buffalo herds.

I guess, my final night at Lebala.

Morning August 29th

Lions were heard last night, so a house-full camp including all private vehicles sent every one tracking in different directions. But, ofcourse, Spencer, Rock and i decieded to head bk to see our cheetah and bid good-bye. She was still full and hadnt moved too much from her position the night prior. After about 10 mins, we left her to her sleep.

Joined the other trucks in their tracking of lion. These lions, had really given us a wild goose chase....After 2 hrs, vultures finally gave them away, Rock located them...we found the radio-collared lioness with another supposedly skittish lioness and 2 big male lions feasting on wildebeest. They didnt seem skittish at all. The other lioness seemed to be in estrus and the male lions were interested. Hopefullly, the start of another successful pride as in year's past. The radio-collared one still seemed bruised from her fights from earlier in the week.

Got some pictures and left to pack and wash up and to say our good-byes. Ruster from Lagoon also stopped by at breakfast as he was transferring his guests from Lagoon. Tough to leave my favourite camp and all my favourite people- but, i shall return!!!

At the airstrip, funny guide Custard and tracker Justice were returning with us to Kwara. Interactions with Custard over dinners at Lebala was most entertaining. He has lots of stories of his days doing mobile safaris across Africa.

I was joking with Spencer the night prior, we have very bad luck tracking lions together.....we had seen everything unusual upto that point over the course of my multiple trips with him: Sitatunga, Black Mamba, Serval (day and night), Leopard, Cheetah, Civet, genets, Hyenas eating hippo, of course, the wild dogs......"But, you dont much care for lions" he said.

Next up: Little Kwara.

My Yoga instructor earlier this evening quizzed me, as to why....i didnt keep up my practice during the trip...."Next time for sure" I replied. Yeah, right!!!

Anyways, Little Kwara August 29th:

Very sad to say my good-byes at Lebala, but, i was greeted with a big smile by the ever jovial guide, "Doctor" and was made to feel right at home. Got to little Kwara and was greeted with a big hug by Mel. Mel is a fantastic people person and is a great great person who fits into the Kwando way, right away.

Mel was very much an integral part of putting LK together and her good taste and sense of aesthetics has brought out a fabulous camp!!! The lounge area is fantastic!!! Very comfortable, loungy, bush-chic and very nice. The tents are huge and very nice.

Food at all Kwando camps are very good and plentiful, but, i must give Mel's Kitchen at LK a slight edge over the other camps. I later learnt that my guide Doctor's wife is the cook at camp, trained brilliantly by Mel.

Welcome home from what appears to be a very lucky Trip #7.

You are to be commended for getting right on that trip report--and posting numerous installments, not just a little tease.

I know that withdrawal feeling, having just recovered from it myself. Thanks for your detailed animal sightings, your lovely description of the people, and your thoughts on that heated topic--the vehicles. It does indeed appear that the change in management has not altered the guests' good experiences.

Such luck you had with your cheetah! And daily roan. Your pictures may tell, but how close did you get to the roan and how many roan did you usually see? Sable too. Do you usually see these antelope at Lagoon and Lebala? These are huge non-predator finds. Leaving early is a good tip.

The mystery of the couple of wild dogs you saw may mean there are more in the area. I hope so and I hope they do lots of successful breeding. These dogs appeared to be quite active, flushing out all sorts of game. Very exciting.

Does your sister often accompany you and is she a fan of Africa also?

Why is Lebala your favorite camp? You ran the Boston Marathon?

Quick note about Kwara/LK. They have some very very good guides as well just like at Lebala or Lagoon. Some of these guides are also very very well known.

Anyways, the first afternoon drive with Doc and his tracker John- We went straight to the pride of lions (Shinde pride). Heard many stories around the fire in the evening from guests at Lebala who had arrived from Kwara. These lions had pulled down a big buffalo in front of the vehicles.

Pride consists of 2 enormous male lions (the 3rd hasnt been seen for atleast 3 months- Saw them last trip), one sub-adult male, 4 lionesses and 2 cute cubs. It was nice to hang out with them playing around. There was a mating pair amongst this pride also....spent the entire drive at the sighting and then headed for sun downers and a trip bk to camp.

Nice small dinner. The camp was bit quiet as the August holiday crowds were starting to thin out. However, it was nice chatting with Mel, who is fantastic in remembering people and the minute details of our prior visit. She was to head bk to Maun the following day and would be nice to see Lebu who was to come in for relief duty during Mel's absence.

Welcome back from what sounds like a remarkable trip!! Read up to the Ferrari Safari off in chase of the wild dogs, your sister tossing around in the back seat! So far, so great, can already tell why you return to Kwando. Catch up with you later!! (Great job getting the report on the board so quickly!!) Deb

Hi Hari,

Glad to hear that you had a good time, and that the sightings at Kwando have improved since July. It sounds like the pans in the mopane have finally dried up, bringing the game down to the rivers. Too bad about the dogs at Lagoon, but it sounds like you had a very nice sighting at Lebala.

I'm afraid we'll have to agree to disagree on the Uris, but I agree that Spencer is a terrific guide. He really does have a fine instinct for what the animals will do and when.

Cheers,
Julian

Hey Lynn,

Will try to answer your questions. Thanks for your comments.

My sister is an Africa nut herself, and uses it as an excuse to take time off from her husband and kids. None of them are as nuts as we are about Africa. However, still leaving at 1PM to sit with sleeping dogs is a bit much for her.

Boston Marathon, yep twice....amongst 7 total marathons (all of them in the US)

Roan....usually on the drying pans in the mornings from solitary bulls to smallish breeding herds. The bulls were very relaxed. One big sable bull and a small skittish herd of 3. Usually around Lagoon. You would be very lucky to see them around Lebala. Last time, i have had good Sable sightings at Kwara also, but that's extremely good luck.

The dogs....i hope there are more mystery dogs around in the area.

Why Lebala, my favourite?.....Great camp management in Harry and Monique, great guides (Spencer, Charles, Steve, Thabo), very friengly staff and wide open flood plains in the immediate vicinity. Ofcourse, my game sightings speak for themselves. Every day is so different from the next.
Game viewing is a huge priority for me-a good guide/tracker system works for me and is a huge draw to the Kwando product. All guides/tracker trained suitably, even if they migrate from other camps of other companies.

Hope this helps.

Hari

Thanks Deb and Julian,

Trying to get the report in as i am going to be swamped when i get bk to the office first thing Monday morning.

Julian, yes the pans hv dryed up...but, during the last week there was another surge of flood waters from Angola. Clearly visable in front of the lounge area at Lebala. They may hv had late rains in Angola.

Hari

Hari, great report -- sable, roan and dogs, plus lots of cheetah and lions...some real exciting episodes. Welcome back and thanks for sharing.

Michael

Hi Hari,

It sounds like you saw the same sable herd I did -- three females and a very skittish bull.

I wonder if the BK you met was the same one who was my guide in July -- Kavey has mentioned a BK who used to work at Mombo, but it's hard to believe it's the same person as Kavey said he was a superb guide (which as you know was definitely not my experience). Any chance there are two BKs at Lagoon?

Cheers,
Julian

August/30 (LK Contd)

Morning started with our very good guide, Doc...who, the moment we drove out of camp picked up alarm calls and signals and sounds from the bush and soon we were off tracking leopard. There had been very good sightings of a very relaxed female leopard and her cubs past two weeks. Soon, she was found in the tall grass. We radioed the sighting and couple other trucks joined us. Doc urged me to stay patient. The grass is really tall to work with at Kwara due to the rains.

She was clearly hunting and with patience she was on a termite mound in great morning light. Hopefully i got some good shots. Some impatient trucks had left the sighting by that point to look for other things....After more than an hour, she fully disappeared in very tall grass. I still had a very good sighting.

Doc got a radio call saying a cheetah with 3 small cubs were seen in the far western side of the concession, and off we went. DOc and John were relentless in their tracking, but were unsuccessful. She was obviously spooked by somethng and i'm glad she does a good job of hiding her cubs. We headed bk to camp for breakfast. Doc, suggested we pack up lunch and head out at 2:30 Pm to continue our tracking. Ofcourse, my sister stayed back once again.

Before i forget, on the way bk to camp this morning, John literally jumped out of his tracker seat when we found a Mozambique spitting cobra crossing the road. We all had a good chuckle and tagged along....met Mel at the airstrip to bid our goodbyes.

In the afternoon, Doc and John packed an elaborate picnic lunch and off we went. It was really far. The western circuit was very dry and even general game pretty much absent. However, we went with a specific mission on our minds. Cheetahs were obviously successful hiding. We had a nice lunch in front of a nice lagoon and started to head home slowly.

Suddenly on the radio, one of the trucks called in the Shinde pride hunting buffalo again. We were really, a long long ways away and had to race bk to the scene of buffalo murder.

My sister, chose to do the boat trip to the heronery that afternoon with Steve's guests. She said that, the moment they got off the boat they heard the shreek of the buffalo on the radio and Steve raced them to the lions. She was very impressed by his guiding skills as well.

Neither of us got to the sighting in time to see the buffalo go down, but, pretty much 15 minutes after. Interestingly, it was just round the corner from where the lions brought down buffalo 4 days prior. It was still good fun to watch the pride of 6 work hard to work it's way into the carcass. One of the big males was missing. The hide was really thick and tough to work into. Each lion had it's own induvidual space to work with and didnt allow the other to get into his/her space of tearing the hide. They got to the internal organs first. One piercing the eye and another going in through the rear and pulling out the stomach contents and intestines. I did notice some of the people in other vehicles find it a bit much.......soon all the lions were feasting. Wow!!!

During all this, Doc suggested that i focus on viewing the action and leave the photography for the morning. I agreed. We stayed there until 8:30 Pm and left. The lionesses looked exhausted from both the hunt and the tough part of getting thru the hide.

Always, have had phenomenal lion viewing at Kwara.

Lebu from Lagoon was there and was fun to be around. We missed her at Lagoon, so it was nice seeing her again. She is sweet and genuine.

Julian,

Just the one BK- same one. He has guided the president of Botswana on request. Amongst other very famous personalities....what did you not like about his guiding? However, i havent experienced him as a guide. He is the relief manager at Lagoon for Jonah and Lebu. Was he the relief manager then? or was he a fill in guide due to shortages?

Hari

Hello Hari,

There were only two vehicles going out when I was at Lagoon (only three tents were occupied, two of them by solo travellers) so if BK is a manager I'm not sure why he was taking us out -- perhaps the other guides were on holiday?

Take a look at the Lagoon section of my trip report for my experiences with BK. In brief, he was not at all responsive to guest concerns about safety during what was IMO a rather dangerous encounter with a pregnant female elephant, or sensitive to the need to give the sable a little space to let them relax a bit. Perhaps it's been some time since he has done any guiding and he is no longer used to being out in the field, but in that case a refresher course is probably in order.

Cheers,
Julian

Welcome back Hari! Sounds as though you had a very special trip. It is wonderful to find places that mean so much that you want to return again and again.

CW

Welcome back, Hari - haven't read your report yet - wow you guys are impressive in getting your reports done! Glad to hear you had such a fabulous trip. I am going through withdrawals right with you!

Sharon

Thanks, Michael.

August,31:

The cold reality that this would be my final full day at Kwado set in. Like i said, the draw is not just the game viewing but, the whole crew of people at all their camps. Every guest is made to feel part of the Kwando family and hence my desire to stick to the "Best total experience" IMO.

Anyways, off we went to chk on the lions- Doc mentioned, "Golden light". We were the first car to arrive for the morning. Doc pulled in and just stayed in one spot. Despite, the tall grass i may hv managed a couple of decent shots. The entire pride was still feeding, including both big males and the two cubs. Lots of feeding action, interaction between the pride members- including the mating pair. We just sat in one spot until 11Am when the lions were starting to look for shade to nap.

I noticed many of the other trucks changing positions for their vehicles, but, Doc mentioned that we just stay in one spot and be patient and work with action that will eventually happen.

I did mention, the lionesses were looking to rest. One of the lionesses was inching closer and closer to the truck to look for shade and at one point we made eye contact- inches away from each other. That was awesome!!! I think Doc may hv got a picture of it from my spare camera. I did not panic, but, yes my heart did skip a beat. Doc, started the engine and she fled away. He didnt want her to make this a habit. Exhillarating stuff!!!

There were vultures all over the immediate horizon looking to break in.

At breakast, Moses one of the younger guides at Kwara paid a visit to say his hellos. I had met him many years ago during my visit to Kings Pool, where he was my guide. He is a very nice guy and we reminisced our trip up the savuti channel watching the then 3 cheetah bros. He's another positive addition for Kwando.

The whole Africa experience has a lot to do with the warmth of her people and their genuine hospitality. He thanked me for the photographs that i had mailed him after that trip....how could anyone remember all minute details such a long time ago.....Wow!!!

Between Kwara and Little Kwara, they have an all-star cast of guides Joe/Mothusi/Doctor/Steve/Moses and Custard. If i'm missing anyone, it's just that i hadnt met anyone else....my excuses....Custard, i did mention is a funny, funny guy.

Longer siesta time today and a very sweet aussie lady guest at camp (mother of one of the pilots for Moremi Air) wanted to go chk out Kwara main camp. Lebu, being her sweet self walked us over. Going to Kwara main, brought on a flash of nostalgia from my previous visit. I visited their nice shop and chatted briefly with current managers Peter and Bonanag. Bonang immediately recognized me from last trip. She was helping out Mel and Grant. Very sweet also.

Gloria (the guest) had a look of sadness on her face, as her time to return home that very day. I felt the same and realized that the shock of reality awaits me.

Afternoon drive, my sister Beena and I invited Lebu on the drive. We went straight to the lions- more feeding on the one side and more mating from the mating pair round the corner. Hopefully, got more pictures. Was fun hanging out with Lebu and was joking with her that the lions at Kwara were more superior to the radio collared lioness at Lagoon (where she is based). One final sundowner, and we went back to watch the lions still eating....it got more stressful for them with limited space and little meat. Lots of growling. Suggested to Doc, that we leave for the day....at around 8 PM. Genet on the way bk to camp.

I could bearly sleep that night- knowing that i am to leave Botswana the following day.

Sept 1:

I was to learn that my flight to Joburg was the 1:45 PM and not the 3PM one. So, we had to leave Kwara at noon.

Doc, John and I went bk to the lions, got more pictures of the feeding, the cubs, the mating. My head was not into it at all- knowing i had to leave in a few hours. Doc, tried to keep it alive and going. Lots of quality time as we just sat watching the lions and not talking much. No other trucks as they all went out on Mekoros/walks/boats.

I soon suggested that we head bk to camp. Got showered, packed and ate some lite breakfast. Custard-the guide, along with his guests joined us for breakfast. Good to see him again since the prior day---lots more funny stories from him. He showed me a picture of Spencer and me stuck in the mud pit during the wild dog hunt. Apparently, he took a quick photo when Spencer was busy trying to pull the truck out the swamps. All Kwando guides have their own induvidual personalites and flavour and are all great to associate with.

Doc, suggested we head out at 11Am and get some pictures of general game. I accepted and off we went with our bags. Had to bid a sad good bye to everyone at LK. Pictures of Red Letchwe, Hippos, Carmine bee eaters and tstsebe.

Eventually, had to bid good bye to Doc and John. They must all think, i'm completely nuts!!!

THE END

Thanks Sherry and CW.

Julian, will read your Lagoon section

Hari

Hari welcome back, glad to hear you had a good time (no surprise, you were in good hands)
Glad you saw dogs at Lebala. I checked my pictures from last year of the Kwara pack. One male is almost black and the other very dark.
Michael

Michael,

Hi! When i get a chance, will post my pictures of the dogs and we'll compare notes. On that day, Tracker Justice/custard-the guide, Richard and Charles guides that criss-cross camps as Prvt guides....were all present and feel strongly that they are the same dogs.

Lebala is truly truly rocking at the moment. I nearly cancelled LK and just stayed on at Lebala. With a full-house it would hv been a logistical nightmare for both Harry and Monique and so, didnt want to bother them with the changes. LK was very good, anyways.

I now know, that i must spend more time at Lebala.

Hari

But, yes very very dark dogs....very unique color and markings.

Hari

Welcome home Hari!
I am so impressed - home in a day and finished the trip report! I haven't read it yet, but have printed it out - I have a feeling Kwando (Lebala) will make it to the top of my list in Botswana from what I see by just glancing through!

Welcome back Hari! Great report, sounds like you had an amazing trip. Can't wait for the pictures.
Thanks! Dennis

Lynda and Dennis, thanks for your kind comments. Lynda, you will be in good hands at Lebala. Awesome place!!!

Dennis, the pictures arent going to be as quick as the trip report. I will try and put up a few at a time later in the week. I quickly got the report in, as i am going to be swamped with work on Monday.

Hari

Awesome stay at Kwando and very well reported in short order Hari -- thanks!

Can't wait to see the pictures, I am dying right now to return after all that excitement!!

Hari

I have put some pics of the Kwara pack in a seperate folder. Do you think they are the same?
Michael
PS glad to hear that there are no major changes at Kwando

http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLandingSignin.jsp?Uc=d9b9w2z.5p6o0lz&Uy=-2rkzms&Upost_signin=Slideshow.jsp%3Fmode%3Dfromshare&Ux=0

Michael,

Thanks for the pics. Seems like the really dark one (alpha male) is the same. or could be the same: However, the other two i cant recognize. The other dog is very similar to the dark dog. The alpha male in your picture also, has the unmistakable thick fur on the neck area. You got me thinking Michael, i will try and start with pictures of the dogs in the next few days.

Spencer, had definitely never seen the two dogs we saw. Charles/Justice and Custard seemed certain, as they had never seen such dark dogs outside of Kwara. I missed out showing the pics to Doc for confirmation. We spoke about it many times, but, it skipped my mind amidst all the lion action at Kwara.

Hari

Hari

Look forward to your pictures so that we can compare. Justice should know the dogs very well. If they are the same dogs it has been quite a move!.
Michael

Michael,

Sure, will do. IF they are the same Kwara dogs, no alpha female....bad news?

We didnt bother following up on them the next day....were positive that they were long gone from the area.

Goodnight. Off to bed. Bk to work tomorrow.

Hari

Michael,

Before i hit the sack, i must tell you Spencer was in shock when Harry called in the sighting on the radio. He had the look of excietement and shock on his face. I asked him what was it:

He said two cheetahs- I thought, jolly the boys are back.

Two leopards, he said- What????

"No, two wild dogs. Hang onto the rails and hold tight" He yelled out, "we are running wild with the dogs".....

Hari

Great report, and we have Basset's in common as well.

Excellent report, Hari. Love your enthusiasm. And you certainly didn't waste any time. I was fully expecting you to take a break.

Not at all surprised by the cheetah sightings. Kwando and neighbouring Selinda always seem to produce the goods with cheetah, despite the fact it is such good lion country. Much the same applies to sable and roan...nearly always see one or the other, sometimes both. But it's usually roan which is hard to get close to, not the sable. I've some great shots of sable bulls drinking from the spillway. Looking forward to seeing your photos.

I'm also pleased to hear the v. good relationship continuing on the Kwando- Selinda boundary. It's so much more productive for companies and clients alike than the cold war that exists further south. It will be interesting to see whether Selinda's overtures in the south are successful.

So you caught up with OB on the border...I think you'll remember I heard he was transferring from Selinda to Zib, but he either stayed at Selinda or the transfer was only for a short time. As you see from Lynn's report, her guide at Zib was BB, so it looks as though it was he who transferred, not OB.

John

Hello,

Interesting how much difference one guide can make in the relationship between two camps -- Spencer said that the fact that OB used to work with Kwando and remained close to his former colleagues was a major factor in the friendly relations between Kwando and Selinda. I also saw OB on my trip when we headed down to the Kwando/Selinda to look for the lions and buffalo.

Hopefully things will thaw out soon further south. After having stayed at Duma Tau and Savuti, I'll be at Selinda on my next trip so it will be interesting to see the relationship from the other side of the fence, so to speak.

Cheers,
Julian

It's not just the one guide, Julian. He certainly helps maintain the good relationship, but it is in fact a long-standing one. OB left Kwando only a few months ago. I experienced the goodwill two years ago when we (in Selinda vehicles) welcomed Kwando vehicles across the boundary to view the three cheetah brothers, and such co-operation was going on long before I became aware of it. It was a revelation after hearing about the 'goings on' in the south.

John

Hopefully you got to relive some of those exciting experiences again through your report. We did!

How did you split up the 10 nights among the 3 camps again? On your previous Kwando trips what was the split?

Weren't you also at Phinda on this trip?

John is right, Selinda and Kwando have always maintained good relationships.....it's not just OB, who only recently left Kwando to join LE. Even last trip, we went down to try and take a look at something, but didnt find it.

Napamatt, yes....bassets are the best!!!

Lynn, thanks. This trip, 3n Lagoon, 4n Lebala and 3n Little Kwara. Usually do 3n in each camp. However, i plan to spend really long at Lebala next time. Yes, Phinda just prior to Kwando. I will post a brief report soon, however it may take a couple of days, but, feel free to email me about Phinda ..... harisantharam@yahoo.com

John,

I have only seen Roan/sable in northern Kwando near Lagoon. I have never been lucky with the sightings at Lebala. However, last year saw a Sitatunga on a termite mound next to the swamps at Lebala.

Hari

Hari,

Just wanted to say welcome home. I haven't read your report yet but I am really looking forward to doing so.

Hari

I am surprised. Last year in October I had 6 sightings of Roan at Lebala including a large herd drinking.
Michael

Thanks, Rocco

Michael, perhaps i should visit in October....but, Spencer says "Suicide month". Hahaha

Hari

Hi Hari

What is predator viewing in Lebala like in the Green Season, thinking of early Nov/Dec?

Cheers
Marc

Marc,

Should be good....need a bit more patience, but the Kwando guides and trackers will try their best to track the predators down.

Always, had good cheetah viewing. Leopard and dogs are hit or miss at any time of the year. You always hv a good chance for lions. Hyenas, those damn animals are a sure shot!!! If you spend more time, your chances increase. The green season is much better for photography, as the greens are in place and lots of young animals. Great birding.

Right now, the birding was just ok. At Lebala, you are always in good hands, but, early Nov should still be fabulous as the long rains would just be starting. It never rains all day, just briefly as passing thundershowers.

However, during the rains you will miss the ellie and buffalo herds that will move into the mopane areas.

Hari

Welcome back, Hari!

I'm saving your report for later but just wanted to welcome you "home"!

Thanks Kavey, long day at work....but, atleast i feel refreshed after my trip.

Hari

Michael (MV)

Here's 4 quick pics: you think they are the Kwara dogs?

http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=kq1dbh2.zsd6d0u&x=0&y=-m8zffp

Cheers
Hari

Michael,

I took another look at your pics earlier in the thread, definitely the older male looks very similar, however i'm uncertain about the other dog.

Your take on this puzzle?

Hari

Hari

this is tough. However looking at your 4th picture and the markings on the left leg, my take is that the dogs are not the same.
Michael

I didn't print the pics or anything but the dark dog in Michael's first pic has a notch out of the left ear a little down the side. The first dog in Hari's pic does not have this notch on the left ear (only a smaller one at the top) so I do not think they are the same dog.

Pred

well spotted. The notch is very distinct in one of my pictures.
Michael
PS just had 2 Ospreys flying over the house. I guess summer is over for now.

Hey Micael, Pred: Thanks, will try and locate more up close pics tomorrow for you guys to chk out.....i may have some pics from the entire afternoon when they were sleeping in the thicket. This is fun.....but, i promise to hv more tomorrow.

So, Spencer may hv been correct. He called them nomadic dogs from the mopane area. However, they seemed very relaxed around the vehicles....like they had been around them forever. The only time they got skittish was when they were insecure about the kudu carcass in croc-infested swamps.

Hari

Michael: sad to see the osprey go but exciting to welcome in the fall -- I'm ready to go hear some elk bugling!

Hari: Usually females emigrate from established packs at 2 1/2 years of age but in large litters of males they will disperse too and they typically travel much further than females. It would seem that these are either emigrating males or males that have lost the rest of their pack and either way they are now looking for a female to make a new pack. Sounds like they have come originally from a touristed area since they are very relaxed.

Pred,

If they hv come from a touristed area, you think they may hv been part of the Selinda pride at some stage and hv broken off and not been seen for ages? Just my theory, but the big male seems like an older boy, in his prime.....

Hari

Hari: they could easily be dispersers from the Selinda pack. I have some literature that the average dispersal distance is about 29 km but some study subjects went 75 km and surely some undetected go much further so it is hard to know for sure as that opens lots of possibilites. But typically a larger pack is going to cause dispersal where a small pack is less likely to lose members looking for a higher rank.

BTW, this literature says the female bias for emigrating from the pack that I mentioned has been shown incorrect and typically all subordinates will eventually emigrate with males often doing it at a later age which could explain why the dog you saw appears to be in his prime -- a good time to find a female group and start a new pack.

Hari,

While you're on dogs, latest camp news from Kwando's neighbour says they've had a lot of wild dog sightings in the past few weeks. Also a pangolin wandering through Zib and an aardvark on a night drive.

John

Bill, Thanks....good info. Will get more pics tonite so that we can compare the dogs with Michael's pics.

John, you've seen the Selinda pack over many years in the past. Do any of my pics, ring a bell to you? I will look into Selinda's website. Thanks

Hari

Hello:

Updated the kodak gallery with a few more pics of the dogs, as promised.

Hari

Hi hari:
I missed this before. Glad that you had such a great time--you certainly make the case for Kwando.

No, Hari, sorry...I can't tell if there are any matches. The pack's been very prolific over the years (this year's litter of eight is by far the smallest for quite a while) so it would have split off a lot...but it has also lost many to other predators, too.

John

Hari - FABULOUS photos!!! I swear they were posing for you!

Imelda

Hello and a belated welcome back Hari,
Very glad to hear you had such a wonderful trip and all your pretrip hassles are hopefully forgotten.

Yes, you and others have most definitely made Kwando sound like a must visit. I will remain envious til I get there.

The dog shots btw, are great. Look forward to seeing your cat and other shots!
Sherry

Thanks guys for your greetings and compliments on the dog pics.

I guess i missed airport issues in my trip report. I will talk about a couple of things now. The Bombay airport was a complete Zoo. I left India, just prior to August 15th (Independence day) and there was a lot of security. I packed my camera equip and gear in my hard top box and had bubble wrapped it suitably (The cameras). Glad everything came out ok when i unpacked in SA.

At security, people's shoes and coats were going into the security machine in one end and coming out together at the other end. Thank god, my coat was packed.

In SA and Bots, no issues at all.....

However, i bought a couple of nice bottles of shiraz and Pinotage at JNB and hand carried it with me. At the Bombay domestic airport on the connecting flight to home (COimbatore) they took it away from me. My office in Bombay will hv to collect it for me from the airport officials. Gosh!!!

Anyways, all's well.....

Thanks
Hari

Just catching up with your report and photos (!!!), but I wanted to say welcome back. Delighted--but not surprised--to read that you had an excellent safari.

And of course, thank you for checking back in.

Thanks Leely, Appreciate it.

Welcome back, Hari -- it was great to meet you briefly at Lebala, and sorry we didn't have a chance to spend any time chatting.

I just returned last night from Lebala and Nxabega: both were fantastic, and I'll try to put together a report in the next week or so. While I loved my time at Lebala, I was not as fortunate with my guide (a contractor named Richard Randall); still, as you say, Harry and Monique as well as every one of the staff at Lebala are terrific.

Hello!!! Very nice to meet you also. Albeit briefly....sorry, we didnt get to chat longer, as u remember my final morning was hectic with the lions and the wildebeest.

As i remember, you were at Lebala for 4 nights. That makes it 3 more nights after i had left.

Richard Randall is a very experienced private guide, not a contractor. How was the game viewing after i left? Did the female cheetah continue to stay in the area or did she move back into the Selinda concession?

Hari

Hari,I've really enjoyed your report and the passion behind it. But you're a bad influence by making me re-think the Kwando part of my itinerary Savuti camp cleared for me yesterday, at the expense of Duma Tau - so here is my current itinerary (51 days to go):

4 nights Chitabe Trails
3 nights Duba Plains
4 nights Savuti
4 nights Lebala
2 nights Lagoon
3 nights Kwara
4 nights Little Kwara
3 nights Kwetsani

After your report I was thinking of splitting my 13 Kwando nights at just Lebala (7) and Little Kwara(6), but they don't have the availability for it to work. Also, I fear I may lose out on roan and sable sightings by skipping Lagoon.

What do you think?

I'll also be meeting Rocco at Lebala (12th Nov) and Lagoon (14th Nov).

Regards

Gaurang

Welcome home, Hari! I haven't finished reading all of this yet but loved this part -

"Hang onto the rails and hold tight" He yelled out, "we are running wild with the dogs".....

What a great trip!

Cindy

Thanks Cindy.

Gaurang,

Is there a reason you are doing both Kwara and Little Kwara? Is it due to space availability and you need to shift camps? It is literally walking distance apart, but, if you hv availability try Little Kwara first. You basically hv the same views from both (but different angles). However, both camps are independent and you cant see one from the other.

You must try to do both Lagoon and Lebala. Bear in mind, i just had better luck at Lebala. The two cheetah boys hang out more in the lagoon area than at Lebala thesedays. The Cheetah lady i mentioned in my trip report can be anywhere, also other cheetahs in the area.

Also, the lagoon dogs come back and forth. Infact in the recent months, lagoon has had more dog sightings than at Lebala. Just that my luck of the draw was different. Ofcourse, a lot will depend on how early it starts to rain this year and the amount of rain by the time you get there (for the big herds).

Lion sightings are good at both camps. Leopards are hit or miss at both.

If it has been raining a bit, then you need extremely good luck to see either Roan or sable.

People at both camps are fantastic.

Also, is there a reason why you planned more time in the Kwara area than in the Kwando concession? That seems a bit odd to me.

If i had 13 nights with Kwando: i would do 4 nights Little Kwara or Kwara, 6 nights Lebala and 3 nights at Lagoon. (or split L and L according to availability)

Also, by November the Selinda pack will be more mobile i think, so your chances of seeing them at Lebala are probable.

I like this dilemma of planning and itinerary sounds fantastic!!!

Hari

Gaurang,

Dont plan your itinerary around roan or sable. For mid Nov, you may easily miss it if it rains a lot.....

Hari

Hi Hari

The whole Kwando itinerary was based on availability at the time of booking and being able to spend consecutive nights at one camp before moving on to the next. But I do understand what you mean and I'll still keep trying to get more time in the Kwando concession and cut down on Kwara.

Thanks for the info and tips.

Gaurang

Gaurang,

This is a very excieting question for me to answer. I think you should spend a minimum 3 nights at Lagoon. I know you like video filming a lot. You should meet Jonah(manager) at Lagoon, who is not only a brilliant photographer but has a whole collection of brilliant clips he has filmed on location in the lagoon area. I think you will really enjoy chatting with him and he always has brilliant ideas as to how you can improve your pics/clips. He has clips of lions hunting hippo right outside lagoon camp (it happened two days prior to my arrival- ofcourse!!!)

I remember, last trip he was doing a transfer from Lebala to lagoon and he kept saying try it this way, try it that way. Eventually, i just handed him the camera and suggested he help me out!!! Great guy!!!

Hari

Lagoon has added two more tents recently, so you should try again. They are now 8 tents. But, if they only hv two nights....take it anyways.

Worst case, Kwara will always deliver excellent action...so you are still in good hands. The lion sightings there are phenomenal.

Hari

Cindy,

That's one of Spencer's classic one-liners. That was during the wild dog hunt. At one point, he slowed down for a turn and he pointed out and screamed,"black heron". Mad man, i thought!!!

Gaurang,

If i had the time, i would do 10 days Lebala, 5 days each lagoon and Little Kwara. Ofcourse, everyone there already think i'm nuts!!! hahahaha

Hari,
Only now got to your report and am really enjoying it and how interesting that BK who was my guide during our first visit to Mombo in 2001 is now working at Kwando. Harry, it seems he was managing the camp during your stay but isn't usually in that role - is he usually guiding or does he have other duties?
I ran into his cousin at Jacana in 2004 who told me that BK was at that time working on establishing his own business since leaving Wilderness Safaris so I assume he's joined Kwando sometime since then.
Julian, when you described the BK that guided you, I have to say it didn't sound anything like the BK I met at Mombo. For a start I seem to remember that you described your guide as a fairly young man. "My" BK Setlabosha would be in his thirties at least I think though I don't know that for certain. I would estimate that he was already in his thirties when I met him back in 2001 though perhaps he was still in his twenties then. He is a tall man, well built rather than scrawny, warm, intelligent and friendly and very good at teaching visitors about the environment, animals and people. I remember also that he was deeply committed to his local Christian church and also a real family man and very proud of his children. And he was one of the guides who impressed on us the importance of respecting the animals' space.
I simply cannot imagine him behaving in the way you described of your guide. So hence I wonder whether there are two guides using the nickname of BK? If there is indeed only one then I am truly so surprised that he behaved as he did during your visit both in terms of respecting animals and visitors.

Oh, just looked at all 14 wild dog pics - those are great pics! What fabulous sightings!

Hi Hari

I have just told my agent and he should definately be able to get me:

4 nights Lebala
2 nights Lagoon
3 nights Lebala
4 nights Little Kwara

It's all he can do at the moment, but he will try to squeeze in some more time at Lagoon. It will be unusual to leave Lebala and then return two days later, but I don't mind as it will be a game-drive during the transfers.

What do you think now?

Kavey,

The BK Manager at Lagoon is indeed the same one you describe. Now, maybe early 40's. He was a Mombo legend, indeed!!! Glad you liked my pics.

Gaurang,

Sounds good. Yes, game drive transfer from Lebala to Lagoon and back. That's what i did last year when i had scheduling problems. No worries at all. You pack your bags and do a longish drive....those cheetah brothers like that area inbetween both camps. You will be in good hands.

Hari

Kavey,

I missed your other question. Harry- the Lebala camp manager, usually just manages the camp with his wife. But, he is a more than capable guide as well. He does have to guide at times like the week of my visit, where they needed to hv 5 jeeps running (Prvt vehicles etc etc).,

Yes, BK is very much a big part of his church. He has some sort of a pin on his shirt pocket signifying the church he belongs to. He is not thin by any means. Kavey, i definitely met the BK you are referring to.

Hari

Loved the wild dog photos. Maybe the fourth from last was my favorite, but it's very difficult to choose.

GREAT report, too. Sounds like lots of fun. And how wonderful that your sister shares your addiction.

Yes, Hari, that sounds like him. Now I just need to wait to hear back from Julian again to see if it's the same BK that acted as his guide - I'm sure he said that his guide was younger. I sure hope it's not the same BK as I'd hate to think of the BK that I met behaving in that manner.

Hari,

I just wanted to say thanks for sharing such and exciting trip report! I felt like I was right along with you on those exciting game drives. I'm glad that you had such a fantastic trip!


Jenn

Thanks Jenn, Kavey and Leely.

Kavey,

Maybe a different BK Julian was talking about. There are so many BK's, KB's, LT's, OB's, BB's, JFK's etc etc., no one can be sure.

Hari

Here's some faces to the trip report:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=kq1dbh2.u0om7vq&x=0&y=y5b3w1

Hari

topping this thread up, for Loru100

Enjoy!!!

Hari

Thanks so much! Exciting report...I always envy those that can post such detailed trip reports. Your race to see the wild dogs brought back memories of racing through the Mara when we went to Kenya in '99. There is nothing like getting a call on the radio and racing along a "road" (I use the term loosely) to find a pride of lions or a leopard or cheetah sighting. Thanks again!