Welcome back, Kavey! I'm looking forward to hearing about your adventures. Sundowner was there last year; you'll have to compare notes.

Oh I hadn't realised that (my brain gets so confused).

Do let me know of any specific questions!

Love to hear all about it, specifically wildlife and birds.

Matt, sure thing!

Highlights on wildlife for me:

Spending time in the midst of the black-browed albatross and rockhopper penguin colony at Devil's Nose on West Point. We sat amongst the tussac grass (huge, mature specimens) and were within touching distance (not that we did/ would) of the birds. We watched (and photographed) for hours as albatross chicks sat on nests waiting for parents to fly back and feed them, other adults were touching beaks in their courting/ bonding behaviour. Adult black-browed albatross are, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful birds on the planet, with their eye-shadow grey marking by their eyes. The adult rockhoppers, as their name suggests, hopped and scrambled their long, long way from sea to young ones who waited impatiently for their meals. Squawking and plaintive calling and aggressive screeching between all of them filled the air. Oh and the occasional caraca or skua flying overhead looking for unattended or injured chicks to pick off...

At Pebble Island the rockhoppers tended to share colonies with cormorants instead of albatross. These big birds look so funny in flight, especially landing and taking off. And more darling chicks to watch.

Also on Pebble, large colonies of gentoos, the chicks of which were almost ready to head off to see, and were at an apparently fairly short-lived curious stage where, as you got out of the landrover and sat on the ground, they'd swarm towards you, sometimes right on top of your feet or touching your camera with their beaks until the slightest movement would spook them and they'd waddle off in alarm, only to come back a few moments later.

Saunders Neck is probably the island with the greatest range of wildlife, though the least comfortable accommodation (but there are plans in place to upgrade this, don't know when). Magellenic, Gentoo, Rockhopper and King Penguins are easy to see and watch from close quarters. Some are fortunate to see an odd macaroni but we didn't. We spent hours with the rockhoppers in particular as we could sit on the beach (in the HOWLING wind/ rain waiting for the odd breaks of sun/ dry) watching them porpoise in the water, head for shore, clamber out and jump and hop their way up the cliff face where we sat and vice versa back in again. The kings here, although a small group of about 15 adults, had 3 chicks, the 3rd of which we saw for the first time only on our last day! We also saw a huge old elephant seal here and enjoyed Commerson's dolphins playing in the surf RIGHT by the shore, in the shallows, back and forth where we stood, for over an hour and a half! We think there was a Peale's in there too.

Everywhere there are many striated caracara or "johnny rooks" as they are known locally. Stunning birds and incredibly curious, they hop right up to you, so close you can't even focus the camera! We also saw a handful of crested cararacas but more rarely.

Many small birds such as the stunning long-tailed meadowlark, the funny dark-faced ground tyrants, the very friendly tussac birds (as friendly and fearless as the caracaras) and many many more.

At Volunteer Point we enjoyed the much larger King penguin colonies, about 1000 breeding adults and many many chicks.

WONDERFUL!

Hi, Kavey, and welcome back! Did you love it?

I guess you stayed at that little building at The Neck. Did you have to cook your own food? Did you stay at the farmhouse on Saunders? That was a little basic in the food/hospitality/accommodations area also. But they did have the little colony of King Penguins that they are trying to keep happy (by keeping people away from them) so they stay there.

I can't believe you saw the dolphins at the shore. Very cool.

What a wonderful and unique excursion. Wouldn't you know it, Falkland Islands have been in the news lately. Hope you missed out on any problems there.

We did stay in the cabin at The Neck and yes we were self-catering there. But our agent had booked food packs sent out on the flight with us so we just topped these up a little with a couple of items from the settlement's store. It was very basic in terms of accommodation and the mattresses were past dead and decomposing - so many springs sticking into me all night. But it was worth it! The colony of kings is still there, approximately 15 of them. For most of our 5 days there we saw 2 grey chicks popping outside from an adult's feet/ protective fold but on the last day a third, much smaller one appeared, for the first time. Apparently they don't come out for a few days so it wasn't born that day but it was definitely the first day it came out into view!

It has indeed been on the news, though there aren't any problems actually there. Argentinian government is posturing, partly because of the start of the drilling for oil and partly to deflect attentions from domestic failures and this is being hyped up by the media. I can't imagine Argentina would be stupid enough to actually attack again, I really can't! It didn't work when they had the element of surprise. It certainly wouldn't work now. It seems to be they are shooting themselves in the foot as what they could do move forward, accept what is as it is, and take a slice of the pie by offering support facilities and processing facilities for the oil industry, if it happens.

They are making it difficult for cruise ships because most of those going to Antarctica depart from Ushuaia. And Argentina are insisting on special permits for those who stop at the Falklands. If they push too hard I suspect a lot of the ships will simply transfer operations to Chile.

But I was surprised that even Chile came out in support of Argentina, this time. That was a turn up!

Welcome back, Kavey! Thanks for the highlights and please post a link to your photos once you get them sorted.

I have uploaded a few photos here:
http://www.gowander.com/photos-list.php?u=4283&f=ed41902f0f8c14e8f1cb3aadfbb78014
These aren't my best shots, but I chose a few that I was willing to post on my food blog, which you can also view at kaveyeats.com with some info about food we ate during the trip!

Thanks for the photos, Kavey! That looks like such a fantastic trip!

I will be in the Falklands later this year. I have my flights booked and I'm working on an itinerary and working on the logistics on sightseeing/hotels?FIAGS flights, etc.

I am having very difficult time getting information about the islands. I will be there for one week.

Kavey and sundowner, is it best to prearrange all travel arrangements or can the destination be visited independently? If anybody can recommend a travel company for sightseeing in the Falklands please let me know.

Thanks.

RJames, lucky you! That is such a fun trip.

I went with a group but the group leader goes every year and he uses one of the travel agents on the Falkland Island websites. I remember looking when I got back but I can't remember which one he uses. I think it's one of the first two
http://www.falklandislands.com/contents/view/115 and it might be Falkland Islands Holidays. They were great and everything went smoothly. There are some suggested itineraries on those websites.

If I were going back - and I wish I were - I would use a local agent and definitely prearrange everything.

Some travel/clothing tips I can give you are:

The wind is constant and strong making it seem much colder than the temp appears. Wind jacket and pants are a must, as is light-weight fabric layering, and a hat, neck-gaiter/scarf and gloves. Several people on my trip wore Gore-tex pants every day. I had windpants that I wore over knit yoga type pants and I did get cold a couple of days so another layer would have been good. DON'T forget the hat. It's cold. And windy. I know I already said that but it bears repeating.

One thing I distinctly remember was the shoe thing. I didn't know what to expect so I took a pair of rubber boots for everyday wear. That was good and bad. Good because you have to take your shoes off before entering every home/place to stay so it was easy to take off and on. Bad because a lot of the walking/hiking you do is across the hills so one foot is higher (up mountain) than the other and they were too loose on my feet. But they were great on the beaches. The gore-tex and water proof/windproof pants are good for the beaches, too.

I don't know if you are going for photography but if you are just know that sand is everywhere on most islands, especially when photographing the penguins. You may want a good weather cover for camera gear. While in the field I used light-weight backpack to carry my gear, lunch, water, and to store/carry another layer of clothing.

Back to shoes again, I took a pair of crocs instead of house shoes/slippers to wear inside the homes/hotels and they were perfect for that and very light weight in the luggage. Our photography gear was very heavy and we had to pay overweight fees for the FIGAS flights. In 2009 the baggage allowance on FIGAS was 20kg per person.

Just thinking back on the trip and remembering how fun it was reminds me that I met a lady that went there for 2 weeks and her luggage missed the flight. And if you've been reading about the Falklands you know there is only one flight per week so she had nothing to wear for a week. She did some shopping in Stanley where the choices were very, very limited. You may want to overdress for the flight just to be on the safe side.

Have a great trip!!
Cindy

Cindy, many thanks for your detailed reply and great travel tips.

I have been in contact with the two agents listed on that webstite. Both are prompt when replying to emails and their itinerary are a little different. I asked both agents to provide references and I was surprised when they said they couldn't. I am having a very hard time trying to get information on the Falklands. I'm unlikely to ever have the chance to return to the Falklands, and I'd like to have the best trip possible.

I wouldn't worry too much about references. If agents survive in the Falklands, they must be doing something right.

And there is a limit as to what they can do. The first post from Kavey gives a list of some of the best highlights.

Added to them, I would add Sea Lion Island - some describe it as the jewel in the crown, but there are many jewels. It is not cheap (but neither is getting to the Falklands), and few places allow you to see Gentoo penguins from your bedroom, and have elephant seals 5 minutes walk away. Plus Rockhopper + Magellanic, penguins, caracaras and orcas, etc, etc.

There should be lots of info from the tourism sites. I'd also try to get to Kidney Island if you are in Stanley for any time - breeding place for fur seals; sea lions and about 100,000 sooty terns; an "Attenborough" type of natural wonder! There are also penguins on the outskirts of Stanley and loads of dolphins in the harbour. Whales often seen nearby.

Having visited the Falklands at the end of a trip to Antarctica and South Georgia, I was prepared to be underwhelmed, but Carcass and West Point were among the highlights of a 3 week trip! I now live here, so if you want more information, feel free to ask.

Thank you, mcwomble. I appreciate your offer of help.

I am debating between two different itineraries, here are the two itineraries in a nutshell:-

Itinerary 1,

Day 1, Arrive Falklands,
Day 2, Full day to Volunteer Point
Day 3, Flight to Carcass island
Day 4, Carcass Island
Day 5, Flight to Sea Lion Island
Day 6, Sea Lion Island
Day 7, Flight to Stanley
Day 8, Depart.

Itinerary 2,

Day 1, Arrive Falklands, land transfer to Darwin
Day 2, Darwin
Day 3, Flight to Port Howard
Day 4, Port Howard
Day 5, Fight to Sea Lion Island
Day 6, Sea Lion Island
Day 7, Flight to Stanley
Day 8, Depart.

Unfortunately, I only have a week to spend in the Falklands, and I'm wondering which of these two itineraries are best. I am keen on Volunteer Point and Sea Lion Island. Not sure if I'm better off visiting Darwin or Carcass Island. I will be travelling in October.

Hi, I may have missed an earlier post, and I don't want to judge your itineraries.

But there is a world of difference between Darwin and Carcass Island. One is a large (for the Falklands) settlement of about 100 people (combined with Goose Green), and the other is a pristine island where most of the birds will approach YOU as they have no fear of Man.

Darwin's lovely, but it depends what you are looking for in your short trip? October should see the wildlife coming ashore and mating...


The road to Volunteer Point is currently closed, but it will open again when the new season arrives. The same goes for Sea Lion Island. (You can email the contact address for precise dates)

If I had to choose, I would go for Option 1 (but I don't know Port Howard). By the way, the domestic flights are very flexible, almost like a bus service. They read the passenger list out on the local radio the night before! They can usually accommodate any bookings...

http://www.falklandislandsholidays.com/about.cfm?page_id=205

Hi,

That site gives an overview of what you can expect on each of the main islands, by month.....

And if anyone is upset about the Falklands being discussed on an African forum, I was 'conversing' with a safari manager in Tanzania the other day, and explaining where I was - "Oh, just off the west coast of Africa, then?", said he!
We have (sea) Lions, and Elephant (seals), so could be African.....

Apologies to the African forum for having this discussion on this forum.

I do appreciate your help mcwomble, I have reviewed the link you supplied. Still debating.......

Will think about this over the next few days and then book a package.

You can find more info on the Audley travel company's website, and perhaps also check out http://www.falklandsconservation.com/ and http://www.falklandislands.com/.

(We booked with Audley as having looked into it, they seemed to be main UK agent for trips to FI and had staff who really knew the destination).

Your itinerary means a lot of moving around and short stays but I guess if you want to see the most possible in shortest time, you have no choice.

For me, and it's purely personal taste, I'd prefer to see the black browed albatross at West Point than the King Penguins at Volunteer Point BUT I have seen many Kings in South Georgia and we also had time with the small King colony at Saunders Island on the trip.

Oh and sometimes, Volunteer Point is CRAZY overrun with visitors from a cruise ship landing in Port Stanley which I would so so so not love.

I'd certainly suggest the remote islands, those with very low human population and high wildlife over places like Darwin...

Thank you, Kavey.

I am hesitant to visit Volunteer Point as the drive is more than two hours each way, that's along way to travel just for a day trip.

I don't have much time in the Falklands, so I need to carefully pick and choose which islands I'd like to see.

Reading this in more detail - what's the attraction of Darwin, in terms of wildlife? As far as I know, the only wildlife you are likely to see there are some cormorants. You can probably see about 50,000 at Sea Lion Island.

Option 2 doesn't hold a candle to Option 1, which gives you access to unique world-class sites (and sights).

It was more than 2 hours drive for us and conditions were not as bad as they can get... I'd bank on at least 3 each way, potentially.

It is the largest king colony on the FI but it's not the best colony for photography, not least because of the boundary stones and signs placed to encourage people to stay clear.

And as I said, if you do have the bad luck to coincide with a ship visit, you'll be overwhelmed.

If you are visiting Carcass Island, you can get to West Point from there by boat (under an hour) for a visit to the incredible Black Browed Albatross and Rockhopper colonies, tangled up together, you reach it via car from the port/ settlement and then a walk down into the tussock grass.

Carcass is also good for penguins and very good for caracara.

My other favourite was Saunders Island, though you'd want a couple of nights there if you want to stay/ visit The Neck as that's a fairly long drive from the airstrip/ settlement, maybe a couple of hours, possibly more.

Thank you. I really appreciate the advice and suggestions. I was leaning towards itinerary #1 before I posted the two itinearies on this forum because it sounded like it provided more diversity in the sights - wildlife, rural settlements, etc. Now I realize that would have been a mistake, Darwin sounds very similar to some remote places I've visited and nothing unique compared to other sights in the Falklands.

I had considered Saunders Island, but I am not interested in the limited accomodation choice there, I have read about the Neck and think that I'd go stir crazy if I was to stay here. Shared accomodation, self catering, shared washroom????? Kudos to Kavey and sundowner for staying here! I'm very much a city person and I doubt I'd survive one night, let alone two at the Neck.

I'm seriously thinking of Itinerary #2 with an excursion to West Point Island, the excursion is very expensive, so I hope there are other travellers at Carcass Island who are interested so that we may split the costs of transport to West Point Island.

I will reread the information I have on the Falklands before I book anything. It is unlikely I'd get a chance to go back so I'd like to see what's unique to the Falklands in the short time I have to spend there.

I would choose Itinerary 1. Is there time to do Volunteer Point on Day 7 when you fly back to Stanley? I can't remember what time you arrive back in Stanley but if you could do it that day (even if you only have an hour or two there) you could have an extra night at Carcass or Sea Lion Island and they both have so much more to see than VP.

sundowner, that is a good suggestion. I think I am better off leaving the itinerary the way it is as there is no guarantee what time the FIGAS flight will arrive in Stanley on day 7. If the flight arrives late in the day I won't have a chance to visit Volunteer Point as I leave the next day.

You are correct about not knowing the time of the flight. The FIGAS flights take a bit of getting used to. The "schedules" and exact routes are set the day before, depending on several factors.

I see, like me, you aren't keen on self-catering... In which case you might enjoy a stopover on Bleaker Island (not quite halfway between Sea Lion and Stanley). Lovely accommodation, and they will prepare meals and BBQ for you if asked. Small enough to walk round the main sites in a day.

mcwomble, are you suggesting I visit Bleaker Island on day 7? I need to be Stanley on day 8 as I fly out that day. I was planning on staying overnight in Stanley on day 7.

How are the sights on Bleaker Island different from Carcass Island and Sea Lion Island?

Different accommodation: luxurious, but probably costs less than the others (I've not stayed overnight on Carcass). Outdoor BBQ.

Similar species of penguins as Sea Lion; loads of cormorants; varied landscape as with the other islands. But more wildlife than Stanley. Depends what you are looking for.

Thanks, mcwomble.

I think I'll book the first itinerary and make the most of my short visit to the Falklands.

I would like to thank Kavey, sundowner and mcwomble for helping me with the logistics of my upcoming trip to the Falklands. Thank you!